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Abel Iloko
H
istory records that cotton-loom woven textiles called inabel were were rooted traditions at the time the Spanish colonized Ilocos Norte in 1572. China !apan and So"theast Asia were already tradin# their #old ceramics $ars iron and %eads with ina%el in the nat"ral har%ors alon# the coasts. &he Spaniards %e#an to ta'e interest in the ina%el 'nown (or its stren#th and d"ra%ility and endorsed it as excellent sails (or #alleons in the same way it was "tilized locally in %oats %aran#ays and other sea-#oin# vessels. )or cent"ries inabel has has also %een "sed to ma'e %lan'ets. &he *"ality p"re cotton (a%rics o( Ilocos Norte %ecame 'nown (ar and wide and the demand (or the raw and sp"n cotton as well as textile prod"cts o( Ilocos %y +"ropean Chinese !apanese and Indian traders intensi(ied. ,eca"se o( its astonishin# %ea"ty the inabel has has ca"#ht the attention o( international co"t"riers who started wor'in# with Ilocano weavers in developin# new desi#n desi#ns. s. Its Its versat versatili ility ty is limite limited d only only to the ima#i ima#inati nation on as local local weaver weaverss contin" contin"ee developin# new desi#ns and techni*"es. ri#inatin# (rom the Ilocos re#ion abel Iloko is Iloko is 'nown (or %ein# d"ra%le and resistant to shrin'in# and (adin#. Abel / is Ilocano (or weave/ and inabel inabel / re(ers to the (inished prod"ct. 0eavin# has always %een done as a collective cra(t normally at home with (amily or nei#h%ors. ne person prepares the thread rollin# it into lar#e and small %o%%ins to load onto the loom. Another ma'es the trim that is sewn on d"rin# the (inishin# to"ches.
&he act"al weavin# ta'es one to three weavers dependin# on the pieces size. Smaller items li'e towels are made %y one weaver on a small loom. ar#er items 3li'e o"r throws4 ta'e at least two weavers. ost weavers will have wor'ed to#ether (or a #ood #ood amo"n amo"ntt o( time time.. &hey &hey can coor coordi dina nate te thei theirr movem movement entss witho"t witho"t even exchan#in# exchan#in# a word. &hey throw the sh"ttle sh"ttle %ac' and (orth p"ll down the warp %eam and slam on the (oot pedals in per(ect *"ic' "nison. &heir $o% is made easier %y the a#e o( the looms. &he wood has %een smoothed down %y decades 3sometimes even cent"ries4 o( weavers %e(ore. )or some pieces a third weaver sits %etween the two main weavers to p"sh and p"ll another set o( threads to incorporate more ela%orate desi#ns. &hey do their wor' %y nat"ral s"nli#ht pa"sin# to complete ho"se chores and stoppin# when the s"n starts to #o down.
The Loom
Traditional Tr aditional Steps of We Weaving aving 1. 6ina#% 6ina#%"'a# "'a# ti ti 'apas 'apas pic'in pic'in# # o( cotton cotton %all %alls. s. 2. 6ana#laddit 6ana#laddit ti ti 'apas removin# removin# the seeds seeds with with the "se "se o( a cotton cotton #in. #in. 8. 6anan#%at%at 6anan#%at%at ti ti 'apas po"ndin# po"ndin# or %eatin# %eatin# with with the "se "se o( the the la#"ndi la#"ndi stic's. stic's. 9. 6anan#s"nay 6anan#s"nay : 6anan#ti%%i 6anan#ti%%i ti 'apas 'apas 3&wis 3&wistin#4 tin#4 twistin# twistin# the the cotton "sin# "sin# the spindle. spindle. 5. 6ana#ila%ay 6ana#ila%ay ti sa#ot sa#ot 3S'einin 3S'einin#4 #4 windin# windin# the cotton cotton yarn into into the s'einer s'einer..
;. 6ana#ta#"d iti naila%ay n#a sa#ot 3Com%in#4 %r"shin# the s'eined yarn to ma'e it d"ra%le and #lossy. 7. 6ana#p"lipol ti sa#ot 3Spoolin#4 windin# the s'eined yarn to the %am%oo spool. <. 6ana##an-ay ti sa#ot 30arpin#4 windin# the spool yarn into the warpin# reel or tool (or warpin#. =. 6anan#l"'ot ti sa#ot 3,eamin#4 windin# the warp yarn into the warp %eam rod. 1>. 6ina#is"%o iti ?"r-on 3@eddlin#4 insertin# the warp yarn thro"#h the heddle eye with the "se o( the weavers hoo'. 11. 6ina#is"%o iti S"#od 3Sleyin#4 insertin# the warp yarn thro"#h the dents or spaces o( the reed with the "se o( the weavers hoo'. 12. 6ina#ipa'at diay 6a#a%lan 3&ie-"p : tyin#- in4 dressin# the loom to tie the heddles %ehind the %eater. 18. A#a%el 30eavin#4 the interloc'in# o( vertical yarn 3warp4 'nown as #an-ay and the horizontal yarns 3we(t4 as pa'an.