Apparel Quality Management

Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V

APPAREL QUALITY MANAGEMENT

ASSIGNMENT 1- STUDY THE QUALITY PROCEDURES IN A GARMENT UNIT

“ORIENT CRAFT LIMITED-DENIM PLANT, MANESAR 2011”

SUBMITTED TO : MS.V.PRIYADARSHINI SUBMITTED BY : ASINE AMON SYMPHONY SATPATHY

1 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT This project consumed huge amount of work, research and dedication. Still, implementation would not have been possible if we did not have a support of many individuals and organizations. Therefore we would like to extend our sincere gratitude to all of them. First of all we are thankful to our faculty,ms.V.Priyadarshini for her logistical support and for providing necessary guidance concerning projects implementation. We are also grateful to seniors for provision of expertise, and technical support in the understanding and acqiring the base information. Without their superior knowledge and experience, the Project would like in quality of outcomes, and thus their support has been essential. Nevertheless, we express our gratitude toward our families and colleagues for their kind co-operation and encouragement which help us in completion of this project.



INTRODUCTION

Quality is defined as “Totality of characteristics of an entity (product, service etc.) that bears on its ability to satisfy stated and implied needs.” Quality has an important role to play in the competitiveness of the apparel exporting industry.

QUALITY ASSURANCE: “All those planned or systematic actions, necessary to provide adequate confidence that, a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality.” Quality assurance refers to the assurance to customers that the product, parts, components, tools etc. contain specified characteristics and is fit for the intended use. The assurance of quality is not the responsibility of a senior person or a department only. Only the inspection department or its personnel cannot be held responsible for assurance of quality. It is the responsibility of everybody connected with the production, directly or indirectly and each and every department.

ROLE OF QAD: QAD in an organization, works on improving the quality produced and monitor systems of functioning. The main role of this department is to ensure no quality issues are compromised with-in production. The department usually consists of a quality/merchandise manager, fabric checker and a mechanic.

STEPS FOR QUALITY ASSURANCE:


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V First of all quality specifications for the product needs to be established, so that it can meet the requirements of the customer. Suitable quality standards for raw materials, parts, components, tools and equipment etc. needs to also be determined in advance so as to manufacture quality product. Proper inspection and testing procedures and methods needs to be evolved to check the quality specifications of raw materials, parts, components, production processes and methods and also final products. With the help of inspection and testing, a manufacturer can determine whether they all conform to the predetermined quality standards or design specifications or not.

BENEFITS OF QUALITY ASSURANCE: Ensuring that even with turnover of personnel, quality is maintained. Using entire quality control staff most effectively. Getting the most of the investment by reducing rejection and rework done on alteration. Evaluate production, identify bad shipments and take corrective action. Evaluate operators in all areas of production and take corrective action.

PROCEDURES TO BE FOLLOWED BY QUALITY ASSURANCE: QAD should precisely focus on two areas:  

Productivity Quality

Both Productivity and Quality needs to go hand in hand.


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V For this to be possible it is necessary that standardized procedures be followed in the field of Quality Assurance. The garment in its manufacturing process moves through the fabric, the cutting, the sewing and finally the finishing department. Quality Procedures are to be followed in each of these departments. Each department needs to treat the following department in the chain as its customer and itself as the supplier to that customer. For example, the cutting department needs to treat itself as the supplier to its customer, which is the Sewing department.

INDULGE AND MONITOR QUALITY SYSTEMS The Q/A dept is required to induce the Q/C dept to implement standard quality systems required by buyers to improve and maintain a very good OQL.The implemented quality system should bemonitored on a daily basis. So that the system runs without any failure. Under no circumstances thesystems should be changed or stopped.The quality system should be very strong so that nothing could penetrate through and result in failure of audits or re-screening.

COMPANY PROFILE Orient craft limited was established in 1978 and is one of the largest Export House in India having a turnover of around 725 crores. It is dealing with US and European buyers and is having 21 manufacturing units in and around Delhi. It is one of the largest manufacturers of women’s, men’s and children’s woven (including denims) and knit garments in India.

Orient Craft was setup by Mr. Sudhir Dhingra (Founder and Chief Managing Director) in 1972 with 4 employees. Having employee strength of 25000 workers it is one of the major companies in the garment sector of India.


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V Orient Craft has clients from all around the globe, major comprising of big players like Tommy Hilfiger, Gap, Macy's, Dillards, Marks and Spencer, Esprit, Armani, DKNY, Ann Taylor, United Colors of Benetton, LEVIS, Debenhams and many more. It has an annual turnover of Rs 800 crores of the woven and Rs 300 crores of the knits section and Rs 40 crores of Denims unit. OCL has setup the largest plant ever in Biwardi Rajasthan which has employed around 12000 employees. Success of a business depends entirely on understanding the buyer’s needs and satisfying the same fully. Infrastructure, Plant and Machinery, Expertise of highly qualified professionals and commitment to quality have earned it a high degree of trust to its valuable buyers.

Major Customers Orient Craft stands true to the image of being 'the name behind names.                       

Abercrombie & Fitch Ann Taylor Bandolino Banana Republic Betty Barclay Calvin Klein Carters Chicos Club Monaco Debenhams Diane Von Furstenberg French Connection GAP International George J-Crew J Jill Kell wood Kohl Levi’s Liz Claiborne Macy’s Marc Jacobs Marks & Spencer 6 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V           

May department stores Michael Kors Mufti Next Retail Ltd Pepe jeans Polo Ralph Lauren Reebok Spykar The Jones Group Tommy Hilfiger United colors of Benetton


vzqB lO Fby,C IW euw m ptforS ckD inshgadP Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V

PROCESS FLOWCHART OF THE COMPANY



MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT Merchandising Department is the most important department of an export house. The merchandisers relate and negotiate within and outside the company i.e., with the other departments and buyers/suppliers respectively. Activities of a merchandiser        

Sampling Fabric sourcing Accessories sourcing Gather Test reports Production targets and its achievements Quality Check Report maintenance Forwarding

Package File consist of following reports            

List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file. Tech pack. CAD marker-costing and factory costing. Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier. Confirmation of the trims Commercial invoices (C.I.) Confirmation of the CI from the store Order chart from the buyer P.O. copies from the buyers Fabric “order confirmations” with approved fabrics swatches Time and action calendar. Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that may

        

be required for future references (buyer related) Mills fabric reports-checking, testing Internal fabric reports-checking, testing Buyer approved Trim card Shade bands Wash swatch/wash mocks Embroidery/printing Minutes of Pre-production meeting (PPM) Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production-either with PPD/QA/factory-all concerned and important mails. 9 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V      

Size set-passed comments- (buyers) Pilot-approval comments Internal quality audit reports before final inspection. Packing list Invoice received from shipping department for the purpose of shipment. Dispatch details i.e. date dispatched to which destination, vehicle number, number of cartons, number of pieces and sending factory’s name.


ilotrunBkPdcbegsGTpf(O)amvFw/RhzCADqyS.,& Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V



SAMPLING DEPARTMENT Here the work of a garment manufacturing unit is done on a small scale or it is a mini production floor. All the functions ranging from cutting to finishing are being done. Sampling is done to get approval from the buyer based on the samples made and for the product development team. The sampling section followed the make through system for production of garments. MS a tm

s e

rp Pi

l n

ag eM

t r

na Mn aa

t

kk r

eg ee r

Working of Sampling Department   

Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser. Getting PPA (Pre Production Approval) from Buyer through Merchandiser. Checking pattern’s workability before starting cutting as sometimes the



patterns specified do not result in a desired garment or desired measurement. Preparation of different samples during different stages of production and get



the buyer’s approval. Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to

  

QC. Revising the specification of the buyer. Minimizing operations and consumption. Innovation of new methods for completion of operations more efficiently.

COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN DEPARTMENT 12 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V CAD department as the name suggests is for marker making by aid of computers. This department is crucial as in achieving the target of the company by reducing cost by efficient markers. The efficient estimation of the fabric which will be used in making a sample is done here. It has computers which are connected to the network so anybody can open the file and operate the system. It uses TUKA CAD for marker making.

The CAD Department has four sections   

Pattern Making Section Marker Making Section Marker Quality Assurance (QC inspection) For any unwanted discrepancies visually inspect the marker supplied by the CAD department. The length and width should be at least 2 cm less than the fabric laid length and one inch less than the fabric width respectively. All sizes in lay slip are there in the marker and the ratio specified is accurate. The marker should be placed on the spread with one edge parallel to the level side of the spread leaving 1 cm on either side in the length and 1 inch in width on the unleveled side. No marker should be creased, damaged or has over lapped / missing parts. When marker length is shorter than the lay length, the pattern master does manual marking. Horizontal matching Vertical matching Remnant fabrics have to be utilized. The count of the garment parts is checked. The alignment of the parts is also inspected.

The QC handles a spec sheet in order to check the above in detail. 

Grading section



FABRIC STRORE AND ACCESSORY STORE All the raw materials are ordered and purchased by the stores department and then issued to the various departments. When any department wants to get any material, they inform the stores department, which then checks the material availability which is done by issuing an ‘Indent’. If certain items are fully/partially not available then the source is identified and purchase order is placed as per the terms and conditions, once quality approval is received from the concerned authority, to selected supplier on the basis of previous track records and price quotations. Fabric Sourcing Store Department deals with the processing of inventory.   

Requisition of material Acquisition of Material Issue of Material

Acquisition of Material After delivery first fabric is checked at the gate physically. If there are any discrepancies in any of the details then needed steps are taken for the same. Else, a request is sent to the fabric store and the material is delivered there. Entry is done in the designated register, and then fabric goes through various inspections. Fabric rolls are checked according to the four point system. Issuing of Material



Fig Issuing of material

TRIM STORE The trims store is another store where the trims such as thread, zipper, buttons, and labels etc. are stored and issued as per requirements. Process Flow of the Trim Store



Fig Process flow of Trim store

CUTTING AND SPREADING DEPARTMENT Cutting department is important in cost reduction by efficient spreading, cutting and fusing. Here about 75% of the total cost is influenced and by efficient of cutting department we can reduce the cost and improve profits. To manufacture a garment we cut the fabric into the necessary patterns shapes. These are joined together by seams to create garments. If more than one quantity of style must be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies spread one above the other. Then the garment pieces for all the sizes planned for that lay are cut. The pattern is plotted on a paper and placed on the top of the lay and then cutting begins.


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V Spreading and Cutting Department Process Flow

Documents Used            

Style file Cutting register Fabric Challan file Fabric Relaxation register Cutting Inspection file Lot Information file Sober register End Bits register Part Change register Cutting Quality Defect Report file Cutting Issue register Blade and Scissors Record register

FUSING Process Flow Chart Fusing



Fig Process Flow Chart Fusing



SEWING DEPARTMENT Sewing Department is the backbone of the industry. Here the garment takes its final shape. Better the sewing process, better the quality and profits. The basic aim is to produce more and better garments in less time. The garments are made as per the specifications of the buyer. The application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams or less defects. 2.8.1 Work Process of Sewing Department

Process flow chart of Sewing Department With a new style comes the information like operation breakdown, sewing details, critical operations, etc. on the display board. A garment sample is displayed for any kind of reference at the end of the line. Line is set as per line layout plan. Operations are assigned to the operators by supervisors. Required SPI, thread tension and needle number is set by supervisors and mechanic. Line Incharge and supervisor give directions to operators for


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V performing the operations. In Line checkers and line QC see if the desired quality is coming out from each operation is as per the quality specifications.

A report is prepared by the In Line checkers and On Line QC for style quality progress. Industrial Engineer does the operation’s study again, if any change needs to be incorporated in the layout and working method for quality and production purpose, immediate action is taken. When the output is complete, it is checked by final checkers again to ensure the product quality.

People involved in Batch Setting

Fig 2.8.3 People involved in Batch Setting


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V On an average each of the seven lines has       

45 machines 4 tables 1 line in charge 3 supervisors 10 helpers 2 inline checkers 1 line QC



FINISHING AND PACKAGING DEPARTMENT Finishing is the last stage of garment production before shipment where garment gets its desired look. Each garment undergoes various finishing processes. Garments undergo quality check for several numbers of times which rid it of defects if any. Here buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained. Work Process of the Department

Fig Process flow chart of Finishing and Packing Department


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V Operations Performed At Finishing Stage 1. Thread cutting 2. Spotting 3. General Checking This section plays a crucial role in ensuring the end quality of garment. Finishing in charge or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking. Each quality checker has stickers for marking defects and thread clippers. S/he checks the garments thoroughly and marks the defects with arrow stickers and to uncut threads if any, then puts the pass piece in the basket below the inspection table. It’s their responsibility to take the defective pieces for correction and after correction put them in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage are broadly of the following types    

Stitching defects Stains Finishing Defect Holes/ Cut/ Fabric defects

Every checker sticks their allotted number the garment passed by them. Every time a defective piece is found at a later stage it is traced back to the checker who passed it. The checker is then shown the mistake so that it is not repeated again. They checkers are given regular on-the-job training.

4. 5. 6. 7.

Seam Ironing Alterations Final Ironing Final Checking

In this section the overall look of the garment is checked. For stain removal at this stage, every table is provided with a stain removal gun and a thread clipper to cut the uncut threads. All the defective pieces are sent for alteration. 8. Tagging and Packing 9. Presentation Checking and Carton Packing


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V After tagging garments are packed as per the buyer specification. The packed garments are checked for presentation. The packed garments are checked for     

Polybags are as per specification Tags and price ticket should be as per specification Packing is secured or not if specified Polybags should not be soiled and torn Hangers are there or not if specified

Garment has been folded as per specification etc. After checking is done garments are sent for carton packing. The following is kept in mind during carton packing       

Number of garments to be packed in one carton Ratio asked for example M:L:S=2:1:2 Get the cartons tested for bursting strength Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified Closing the cartons with cellophane tape Sealing the cartons with plastic cord Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net weight of the carton etc.

Again checking is done and if the lot passes, then the consignment is send for shipment along with a packing list which comprises of         

Style no. P.O. no. Size ratio and mix Color Gross weight Net weight Dimensions Labels Air or Ship shipment

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT Quality is a pre dominant factor when a buyer is buying the garments from the export house and an important consideration while placing the order. Quality is something which is right the first time or following the standards being developed by making the


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V specifications and documenting them such that they are communicated to all the employees of the organization. The quality checkers are trained as soon as the new style arrives in the factory about how they are to check the garment.

2.10.1 Work Process of the Department

Fig Work process flow chart of Quality Assurance Department

Quality Assurance check points Fabric store A small blanket of the fabric is cut and then taken for testing in the testing lab.


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V Spreading and Cutting Here while laying the operator checks the lay and before cutting the marker developed on the CAD is placed on the lay and checked with production patterns for accuracy.

Bundling and Ticketing Here the bigger part of the garments are checked and send for recut in case of any discrepancy.

Sewing In sewing, a 100 % inspection is done inline as well as end of line.

Dry Processing If garment have any dry processing operation on them then garment is taken from the sewing floor they are checked by the quality checkers.

Washing Quality check ensures the quality of goods coming to washing. After washing the shades are matched according to the shade band and if the shade is not matching or not lying in the range then it is rejected.

Finishing This section has most number of QC points starting from the middle checking where the garment is checked from inside and outside, then final check where the quality is checked by looking at the top side of the garment. Then garment goes to


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V measurement checking to ensure the fit of garment. In the end garment is checked for presentation and packed.

Final Audit Final Audit is done internally by quality auditor and externally by buyer's QC. They use SQC as their tool as check few pieces so as to get the idea of the lot.

Fig Cartons for Audit


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V Documents Being Maintained Initial Report This is also called Pilot run report and usually done for 100 – 150 pieces. Internal quality auditors and buyer’s approved quality auditors do this initial checking. The construction, measurements, etc are mentioned in the production package are checked and visual auditing is done. The bulk production begins when the buyer’s QC gives an approval to this report. Component Report This report is made first day when the first piece is produced and contains information like construction details, placement of labels, embroidery, printing, patches, buttons, etc. It helps in checking when the bulk production starts. In Line Audit It takes place after 10% of order quantity has been packed. The auditing is done on AQL 2.5 level. The quality auditors chart take out number of pieces for the style which have been packed and checked for all the measurements, stitching and construction discrepancies. They mark the defects and keep them aside. The numbers of defective pieces are counted and if it doesn’t meet the acceptance level specified in the chart then the whole packed shipment has to be opened and all the pieces are checked for defects and sent for mending. This audit is done both internally and externally and requisite reports maintained. Mid Line Audit This audit takes place after 45% – 50% of order quantity has been packed. The auditing is done on AQL 2.5 level. The sample size is greater here. Final Audit This audit takes place after 80% or more of order quantity has been packed. Packing Audit


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V It is most strict of all audits. A packing list is prepared by the production department for each style being produced, finished and packed. The packing list states the quantity packed in each carton, the color, the size ratio, etc. The QA study this and the packing specifications of the buyers. Discrepancies like wrong size ratio, wrong color, wrong packing, missing shipping marks, faulty packing material used, defective poly bag and any other can lead to the rejection of the shipment.

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT Maintenance department maintains all the machines in the unit. As the machine breakdown is quite unpredictable it is very crucial to the industry. They try to amend the problem as soon as possible. They look after the machinery and the attachments/work aid requirements in conjunction with the industrial engineering department. They order jigs and other attachments to the supplier and regularly take a feedback from the operators so the best option can be ordered for machines that are not have desired attachments.

Daily check points              

Finger guard check Eye glass check Thread stand clean and tight Check on table Machine stand check and balancing Knee pad adjust Stand shoe check and install Oil level check properly/ needles Thread tension set according to fabric Pressure bar rod/ regulator/ spring check UBT machine proper working and check Bobbin winder proper check and maintain Machine and thread stand tight properly Bobbin case check properly and maintain



Fig Maintenance Department

Preventive Maintenance Service Plan followed Service A – Monthly check     

Oil tank proper clean Gear and bearing proper checking/ replacement Oil filter All moving parts checking/replacement Oil lubrication system checking

Service B – Quarterly Check    

Oil change Motor and Control box clean by air pressure All moving parts checking/replacement Gear and bearing proper checking/ replacement

WASHING DEPARTMENT Garment Processing Process Flow Chart



Fig Garment Processing Process Flow Chart

Dry Process Organizational Structure



Fig Dry Process Organizational Structure

Process flow chart for Washing Department 32 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD



Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V Fig Process flow chart for Washing Department

Process flow chart for Dyeing Department


Department of Fashion Technology, Semester - V Fig Process flow chart for Dyeing Department


Apparel Quality Management

Recommend Documents