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NGOICHUA Cac lang que Viet Nam cho den ngay nay, dirang nhu van la noi liru dau nhieu nhat nhiing ngoi chiia CO kinh, tich lang. Do la nhiing cong trinh kien triic doc dao lam noi thd Phat. Dat dung chiia phai la dat thieng. tuong doi cao. khong bi ngap lut. trong sach, khong co mo ma, phong quang, thoang dang, xung quanh co it nha dan 6. Dac biet dat do phai tu linh, tu due, thu hiit duoc sinh lire tir tren cao xuong duoi thap va tao ra am duong doi dai. Vi the, trudc chiia thuong co dong nuac chay qua, neu khong, trong chiia phai dao gieng, dao ao hoac xay ho ban nguyet. Chiia tren cao bieu hien cho duong, nudc d dudi thap la am. Neu chiia cd reu phong dugc coi la trong duong da cd am, cdn nudc chiia dugc anh sang d tren trdi rgi xudng tiic la trong am da cd duang. Am duang ddi dai la the. Ngoai nhiing di(!u ca ban dd, chiia phai toa lac d mdt nai xiing dang vdi ca khdng gian tirng viing que lang xa. NhQng ngdi chiia cd tieng tam thudng dung ben niii, hoac lii'y mii lam chd dua, "tien thuy, hcju scfn ". Dd cung la nai cay cd, hoa la tuoi td't quanh nam, ludn bao phii mdt mau xanh mudt mat, cd nhieu chim chdc den lam td, la noi "cMt lanh, chim dcni ". Dau nha Tran, Viet Nam mdi cd chCr "tir" dat ttin cho chiia.
Dau cdng nguyen, bang dudng bien, dao Phat tit An Do du nhap vao Luy Lau (cdn ggi la Dau), nay thugc Thuan Thanh, tinh Bac Ninh (ddng Nam Tdng). Den the ky II thi dao Phat vao Viet Nam qua con dudng Trung Qud'c (ddng Bac Tdng). Tdi the ky XI, dao Phat mdi phat trien manh, chiia dugc xay dung nhieu. phan lam 3 hang: Dai danh lam (chua do trieu dinh dung kiem Hanh cung ciia vua, xay tren ddi), Trung danh lam (chiia ldn ciia ca mdt viing), Tieu danh lam (chiia ciia lang). Noi thd Phat la mdt thap, trong dat mdt tugng Phat chinh va mdt sd tugng phu. Thap chinh la chiia. Thap cd cao nha't cdn den ngay nay la thap Long Dgi, 13 tang, xay dung d the ky XII. ddi vua Ly Nhan Tdng (thudc huyen Duy Tien, tinh Ha Nam). Sang the ky XIII, thap dugc tach ra khdi Thugng dien, thanh hai kien triic rieng: chiia va thap. Thap khdng cdn la chiia ma trd thanh md su, nhu thap Phd Minh (Nam Dinh). Thdi ky Ly - Tran, Phat giao dugc coi la qudc giao, nen chiia trd thanh trung tam van hoa cua lang xa, VI vay lang nao cung cd chiia, cd thap. Thdi ky nay nha su dugc trgng vgng va dugc coi la ngudi hudng dan giao due ve van hoa, dao diic. Chiia chfnh la dac trUng ciia van hoa Phat giao, cung cd the dugc xem nhu van hoa dan tgc. Tren khap mgi mien ciia da't nudc Viet Nam. tir mien xudi den mien ngugc, tir thanh thi de'n ndng thdn. d dau cung cd chua, chiia da gdn bd va trd nen than thiet vdi ngudi dan. Chua la ciia lang, ciia dan, la mdt phan khdng the thieu
ddi vdi cdng ddng lang. Nhan dan thudng la'y ten lang dat ten cho chiia. Trudc mdi chuyen di xa hay trudc nhitng cdng viec he trgng, ngudi dan thudng den chiia de cau xin sir binh yen, dan dan viec ngudi dan di II chiia da trd thanh mdt tuc Ie, mot sinh hoat van hoa. Trong thdi ky each mang, nhiing nam khang chien chdng Phap, chdng My, nhilu ngdi chiia da trd thanh ca sd each mang, nudi giau, che chd cho can bd, bd ddi, la dia diem hgp ciia nhieu hdi nghi quan trgng. Vl vay, trong ca nudc cd den hang tram ngdi chiia da dugc Nha nudc cdng nhan la Di tich Lich sir - Van hoa. Kien triic ciia cac ngdi chiia Viet Nam deu la mdt tang gidng nhu nhiing ngdi nha d lang que, nhung nd la mdt toa nha to, rdng hinh chir "dinh " ( ' ) (chii T), phan ngang la Tien dudng, phan dgc la Chinh dien hay Thugng dien - chd tham nghiem de thd Phat. Chiia cdn dugc xay dung theo kieu chii Tam (^ ) vdi ba day nha chfnh: Tien dudng, Thieu huang, Thugng dien, hoac theo kieu mpi cong ngogi quoc (ben ngoai chu" c/uoc, ben trong chir cong (Han tu)). Nhiing chiia Idn dugc xay dung bang nhung cot gd lim cao to. Vi, keo, xa ngang, xa dgc cung bang gd lim. Dieu ddc dao la, d nhu'ng chd Idi ldm cua vi keo, tru, van nong, van lung, canh cira, ... cd khi cdn dugc cham bong kenh, cham long, tao thanh nhiing tac phaim nghe thuat tren gd tuyet dep. Mdi bii:c cham nhu dugc thdi mdt ludng sinh khf dem de'n ve dep sdng dgng, la ky. Trudc Thugng dien, cd nai cira vong dugc cham
long, thep vang lam nen cho Phat dien, nhu loe len mdt diem sang cua anh vang de hudng con ngudi vao cdi Phat. Day dugc coi la nhiing tac pham nghe thuat cd gia tri cao. J' Ben tren cira vdng va d tren cao ciia cac gian hai ben Bai dudng hay trong Thugng dien cdn treo nhirng bu'c dai tu son son thep vang ndi ve ten chiia hoac ca nggi Phat. Cac cdt trong chiia cung treo nhitng cau ddi ca nggi cdng diic ciia Phat va canh dep ciia chiia. Dd la nhiing san pham ciia trf tue con ngudi, cung la di san van hoa Phat giao, van hoa dan tdc cua nudc ta. Nhin chung, cac ngdi chiia d Viet Nam deu thap va cd xu hudng bi "hiitxuong" dat, an minh dudi nhiing tan cay cd thu de ddn gigt suang va ciing chung nang gid, hoa nhap trong khdng gian rdng Idn ciia thien nhien. Nhiing ngdi chiia d mien Bac mang tfnh chat chiia cd, vi kien tnic tren bd khung bang gd. Cdn d mien Nam kien true theo kieu be tdng hoa, ggi la chiia diic. He thdng bd mai cua chiia thudng chiem hai phan ba cdng trinh. Dd la dac trung kien triic ciia chua Viet Nam. Mai chiia dugc udn cong, Igp bang ngdi ta, khdng cd mau, mui lugn trdn, phfa dudi la ngdi chieu. Cac gdc ciia mai chiia deu cd dau dao xay cong len nhu hinh ludi dao hoac nhu hinh cai dudi chim phugng lam cho mai udn lugn, uyen chuyen, hai hoa nhu sdng nudc thuy trieu, nhu con thuyen trdi tren nudc, nhu hai canh chim dang dang rdng de bay len. Dudng net nay da thay khac tren mat trdng ddng Ddng Son, dd cung la net cua vudng
va trdn, ciia trdi va dat, bie'u tugng cho am duang hoa hgp, ndi len chi hudng va tam hdn ngudi Viet Nam, the hien triet Iy nhan sinh phuang Ddng sau s k . Chua thudng dugc xay theo hudng nam (hudng ciia trf tue) hay hudng tay (hudng duang - Yen tam mdt chd). Trudc chiia bao gid ciing cd Tam quan, tren cd gac chudng, hinh thiic la ba cira, cira Hiiu, cira Vd va cira Dai (gdm ca Vd va Hiru), nhung ndi dung la mdt tuyen ngdn cho ca ba Idi nhin ciia dao Phat: khdng quan, da quan, trung quan. Khdng quan la nhin vao sir vat, that ra cai gi cung la khdng. Da quan la sir vat gi cung cd bien hoa, cd dil ca, cai gi ciing la cd. Trung quan la khdng phai la khdng ma cung khdng phai la cd. Nd la giira, vira cd vua khdng. Ngoai cira cua Tam quan thudng cd ddi lan d tren dinh tugng trung cho siic manh d tren cao, sir hieu bie't, kiem sat tam linh ciia cac chiing sinh khi budc vao cira chiia. Sau Tam quan cd con dudng Nhat chfnh dao. . ,!( Vao chiia la budc vao Bai dudng hay Tien dudng (nha phfa trudc) nam ngay lien vdi dien thd Phat. Phai vao cira ben trai ciia Tien dudng. Ben trai Tien dudng cd ban thd rieng dat tugng Diic Ong. Tugng nhu mgt quan van mat dd, ngdi budng chan, tay de tu nhien tren diii. Ll Dire Ong xong mdi den ll d Thugng dien. Bai dudng dat 2 tirgng to ldn la Hd Phap, cdn ggi la Kim Cuong, mac ao giap, ddi mu tru, cam binh khf, hinh dang rat dir tgn, chan di giay, cd khi diing hoac cudi tren con sau (ten mdt loai vat tudng tugng, gan gidng su tir). Tugng
Hd Phap phfa ben tay phai, ggi la vi Khuyen Thien, phfa ben tay trai, ggi la vi Trirng ac (ggi la dng Thien, dng ac). Mdt sd chiia cd den 8 vi Kim Cuang nen ggi la Bdt bp Kim Cuang. !.' Ben trai Bai dudng gan tugng Diic Ong (trdng coi lai san va cac khf vat trong chiia, khien ke gian khdng xam pham), la ban thd Thd Dia (vi than coi giir cdi dat). Canh ban thd Thd Dia, cdn cd ban thd Long Than (la mdt Long Vuang da quy y Phat va cd cdng hd tri Phat phap). Ben phai Bai dudng, ddi xiing vdi tugng Diic Ong, la tugng Thanh Tang (Thanh Tang cd the thd d nha Tang dudng). Tugng ngdi budng chan tren be, ddi mu ty lu that Phat (bay miii cd hinh Phat), tay phai cam cai ly dung nudc phep, tay trai ket an. Cac chiia ldn hai ben nha Tiin dudng cd ddng Thap dien Diem Vuang hoac tugng 10 vi vua cai quan dudi am phu. Cd chiia thi thay ddng va tugng bang tranh ve tren gd hoac vai hay giay. O Thugng dien cung ggi la nha Thieu huang - noi thd Phat (nha dgc), mdt chiia ldn hoan chinh cd cac be thd tir cao xudng thap, dat cac tugng Phat bang gd hoac bang ddng va cac dd thd nhu dinh huong, cay den v.v... - Hang cao nhat: Bay ba pho tugng Tam The: Qua khii, Hien tai, Vi lai. Tugng Hien tai d giua, tugng Qua khii ben phai, tugng Vi Iai ben trai. Ba tugng nay diu ngdi tren toa sen. - Hang thiir hai: Di Da Tam Tdn. Tugng A Di Da d giiia, cd dang ngdi toa thien hay thuyet phap tren toa sen. Tugng Dai The chf ben phai, tugng Quan The Am ben
trai, la tugng diing hoac ngdi cd nhieu mat, nhilu tay, (cung cd the la tugng Phat Ba Quan Am, hoac Quan Am Thi Kinh (mdt dang toa son he diia be va cd con vet). - Hang thii ba: Hoa Nghiem Tam Thanh: Thfch Ca Mau Ni d giua, ngdi tren toa sen, mac ao phap de hd vai, tay cam hoa sen. Tugng Ca Diep d ben trai tugng Thich Ca, cd tu the diing, tay khum trudc nguc. Tugng A Nam Da ben phai tugng Thich Ca, ciing cd tu the dung, hai tay chap trudc nguc. - Hang thii tu: Di Lac Tam Tdn: Tugng Di Lac d giua, ngdi de vai va minh tran, bung to beo, hd rdn, than hinh day da, net mat rang rd, mieng cudi thoa man. Ben trai tugng Di Lac la tugng Van Thii Bd Tat, tac ngdi tren lung mdt con su tir mau xanh, tay ndm thanh guam (tugng trung cho trf tue). Ben phai tugng Di Lac la Pho Hien Bd Tat, da mat trdng, tay phai cam hoa sen tren cd ludi kiem, tay trai ndm chat va gia len, cudi tren con voi trdng, la vi Phat chii tri cho chan ly. - Hang thir nam: Thfch Ca Sa Sinh, cdn ggi la Thfch Ca Cim Long diing giira. Tugng la mdt chii be bu bdm dung tren dai sen, mac quan ngdn, tay trai chi trdi, tay phai chi dat, xung quanh cd 9 con rdng. Sd 9 bieu hien cho nhilu (tat ca). Rdng bieu tugng cho may. 9 con rdng la the hien toan bd may nudc linh thieng de Phat tdm khi xuat the. Ben phai tugng Ciru Long la tugng Pham Vuang. Ben trai tugng Cim Long la tugng De Thfch. - Hang thii: sau: Nggc Hoang Thugng De d giua. Tugng Nggc Hoang Thugng De ddi mii Binh Thien (cd 10
mat tren bdng), mac ao long bao, cham rdng, ngdi trong ngai. Ben trai tugng Nggc Hoang Thugng De la tugng Nam Tao cam sd dd ghi viec sinh. Ben phai tugng Nggc Hoang Thugng De la tugng Bdc Dau cam sd tir. Hai tugng nay khdng lien quan gi den Riat giao nhung cQng dugc thd trong chiia. Hang thir nam va hang thii' sau, cac tugng Phat cd the ddi chd cho nhau. (Mdt sd chiia bai trf hang thii tu: Di Lac Tam Tdn (Di Lac, Phap Hoa Lam, Dai Dien Tudng); hang thii 5: Nggc Hoang, Nam Tao, Bdc Dau; hang thii sau: Thich Ca Sa Sinh, Pham Thien, De Thfch. Tugng Quan Am dugc dat trong gdc hai ben (tugng nhieu tay ben trai, toa san ben phai). Khdng phai chiia nao cung cd day du cac hang nhu the, cd chiia chi cd ba hoac bdn hang. Khi ll d Thugng dien phai ngirng mat len, khdng dugc ciii mat. Nhiing chiia ldn, cd nha hanh lang, giap tudng, mdi ben dat 9 pho tugng, ggi la Thap bat La Han (18 vi La Han). Cac tugng nay to nhu ngudi that, thudng cd hai dang ngdi va diing. Mdi vi dugc tac theo mdt tu the khac nhau, ngdi tren tang da hay gdc cay. Cac vi La Han nay da tu hanh ddc dao, dugc len cdi Niet Ban, nhung chua thanh Phat (dudi muc Bd Tat), d Iai the gian de phd bien kinh Phat va ciiu vdt chiing sinh, tieu bieu nhat la chua Tay Phuang thudc huyen Thach That, tinh Ha Tay cd tugng 18 vi La Han tac bdng gd. Nhung pho tugng nay dugc danh gia la nhung tac phdm dieu khdc nghe thuat dep nhat d Viet Nam. Nha tha Huy Can da viet bai tha 11
"Cdc vi La Hdn chiia Tdy Phuo'ng " vao cudi nam 1960, cd doan nhu sau: Cdc vi La Hdn chiia Tdy Phuang Toi den thdm ve ldng van vuang Hd chdng phdi ddy Id xU Phdt Md sao ai ndy mat dau thuang ? Cac tugng Phat Viet Nam cung thudng cd hai dang ngdi va diing, khudn mat mang dang ve nii nhilu han, mieng thoang nu cudi ciin dg, tai to, mui thdng day dan, tdc xodn dc, budu ndi tren dau (dl cao trf tue), mdt nhin xudng, mac ao ca sa - nhdn nhuc y, dac biet la mdt bao gid cung nhin xud'ng soi rgi ndi tam. (Phan biet nhiing tugng d trong chiia: Mdt nhin xud'ng la tugng Phat, cac tugng khac nhin rd mdt la tugng ngudi). Mat cac tugng Phat thudng dugc son mau vang, bieu hien sir tdn kfnh ciia chiing sinh, tao cam giac hii'u hieu vl nhung Idi cau phde, mong udc, mudn gat bd nhiing thdi hu tat xau nai tran tuc, dd la mdt the gidi rieng ciia Phat giao va cung la nhirng cdng trinh dieu khdc cd gia tri mang dau an d tirng thdi ky lich sir. Cd the ndi, mdi pho tugng Phat la mdt tac pham my thuat hoan hao. Cac tugng Phat d miin Bdc diu tac bdng gd, cdn d miin Nam dugc dap bdng xi mang cdt thep, be tdng to ldn. Nha Tang Dudng, ggi la nha thd Td, thudng xay d sau Dien Phat, la nai thd cac vi su td. Day cung la nai tiep khach, hdi hgp ciia nha chiia; trong nha Tang dudng dat thd nhu sau: 12
•'->>- Tugng Thanh Tang la diic An Nam Da; - Tugng diic Td Tay cdn ggi la due To Dat ma, mui cao, tdc quan, rau quai ndn, la ngudi An Do; - Phd'i thd nhu'ng vi su tu hanh ddc dao thdi trudc d chiia.
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Trong khudn vien chiia cd Dien Mdu dat tugng thd Mdu Lilu Hanh hoac dat tugng thd Tam toa Thanh Mdu gdm Mdu Thugng Ngan, Mdu Thoai, Mdu Lilu Hanh. Cd chiia dat tugng thd Tir phu Thanh Mdu: Mdu Thugng Thien (trdi - de nhat), Mdu Thugng Ngan (rirng niii - de nhi), Mdu Thoai (nude - de tam), Mdu Dia (dat - de tir). Bd'n tugng diu gid'ng ngudi dan ba quyln quy, tdc biii ngugc, cd vanh che. Thien quan (vanh trang trf hinh hoa Id. linh vat d phfa tren tran), mac nhilu ldp do dai, yem hd cd, mdt chan chdng ty gd'i ke, mdt chan khoanh, tay cdm quat, tay hd hiing nha ngdn de xac dinh cuang vi. Cac yem cd son cac mau khac nhau; Thugng Thien: dd, Thugng Ngan: xanh la cay, Thoai: trdng, Dia: vang hoac xanh lam dam. Mdu Lilu Hanh dugc coi la Mdu Thugng Thien. -1' ;*.r:: 1/ <-..v Ngoai ra cdn cd nha Trai la nai tang chiing hdi hgp, nha d ciia cac su. Cd chiia xay rieng nha Hau thd nhtfng ngudi mua hau chiia. Ci khu vuc chiia cdn cd cac thap. Cd thap dugc dung len lam nai thd Phat, ggi la thap Phat, nhu thap chiia Long Dgi. Cd thap mang tfnh chat ky niem de thd tro (xa Ii, cung ggi la xa Igi) ciia Phat hoac Bd Tat. Thap Phd Minh (Nam Dmh) cao 14 tang de xa Igi vua Tran 13
Nhan Tdng. Thap Phat cao 13 tang. Thap ngudi dat qua Phat sau Thfch Ca chi cd 11 tdng, rdi 9 tang, 7 tang, 5 tang (thap ciia Dai Bd Tat). Thap 4 tang la thap ciia cac vi La Han. Mdt so thap la md cua cac nha su da vien tich. Thap cd ehdn cat cac hoa thugng la 3 tang. Thap I tang la thap ehdn cat cac nha su tre chet. Cd thap I tang nhung to Id thap ehdn cat dng hau, ba hau. Chiia bao gid cung cd chudng, cd chua cdn xay rieng gac chudng, lau khanh. _• i Bia cung dugc dung d chiia, thudng ke vl Iai lich cua chiia, ca nggi Phat va canh dep chiia, ghi ten nhung thien nam tin nii thap phuang da ddng gdp cdng diic, xay dung, tdn tao chiia. Vudn chiia thudng trdng cac loai cay nhu: cay bd dl (khuyen chiing sinh dep Idng trdn de lam dilu thien). Cay bd dl nguyen d An Do. Diic Phat Thfch Ca da ngdi dudi gdc cay nay va da thanh dao. Tir dd nhirng ngudi sung md, tdn kinh diu den ll bai dudi cay bd dl. Cay dai (cay thien menh, hiit sinh lire tir tang tren xudng dudi), cay gao (la bac thang nd'i trdi da't. Dd la cay vu tru the hien trdi dat phai giao nhau), cay mudm (de cac linh hdn khdng nai nuang tua den nuang nhd), cay sen (bieu tugng cho am - cdi niet ban), cay cue (bieu tugng cho duang), cay mdu dan, cay phii dung,... Trong san chua dat cac chau trdng cac cay canh, cay hoa lam tang them ve dep cho chiia. De'n II chiia, chiing ta cd the gap Sai, la ngudi dan dng trdng coi, quit dgn chiia, hoac Vai la ngudi dan ba M
trdng coi va quit dgn chiia. Cac su d chiia cd nhung cS'p bac nhu: Chii Tieu thudng la nhung ngudi cdn ft tudi, mdi di tu (la ngudi vao chiia tu, sau mdt thdi gian 3 nam thi dugc cao ddu, ggi Id xud'ng tdc (cdn ggi la Sa di)); su Bac la su tre thudc bac sa cap; su Ong la su dung tudi thudc bac trung cap; su Cu Id su cao tudi, thudc bac cap cao, ggi la Thugng toa. Hod thugng Id chiic vi cao nha't cua su. Neu la nir, Hoa thugng ggi Id Su trudng. Nhung mudn trd thanh Thugng toa thi phai cd ft nhat 45 tudi ddi, 25 tuoi ha; lam Hod thugng phai cd 60 tudi ddi va 40 tuoi ha. Ha la mdi nam mdt Ian tir 15 thang 4 (am lich) hoac 15 thang 5 (am lich) den 15 thang 7 hoac 15 thang 8 (am lich). Mdt sd chiia chi cd Ni tru tri, khdng cd tang. Ni Cd hay su Cd la ten ggi chung cho cac su nu d chiia d d .
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Chiia chfnh la chd'n tinh vien (vudn tmh mich), la nai con ngudi den gan vdi chd'n tam linh, thanh thien, cau mong trir dugc dilu ac, lam dugc nhilu dilu thien de sd'ng thu thai, td't lanh han. Nhilu chua td chiic ll hdi theo thdi gian ciia tirng chiia. d chiia thudng chi cd II. Dd Id cac II nhu tung kinh niem Phat hang ngay, hang khoa ciia cac nha tu hanh; II cdu sieu cau vong cho linh hdn ngudi chet tren chua gdn vdi timg gia dinh; II Vu Lan rdm thdng bay xa tdi vong nhan. Cdn hdi d chiia Id phat sinh do nhu cdu cdng cam ciia con ngudi, mud'n dung nap nhilu hinh thai tin ngudng khien cho gid day hdi thudng di lien vdi II. Hdi chiia rnd rat ddng vui va nhdn nhip han cd vao dip 15
ddu xuan. Dau xuan, nhan dan cd phong tuc di vao chua II Phat, cdu may, cdu phiic, do dd hdi chiia da dan tiep nhan chiic nang ciia hdi lang. Dd la nai de ngudi dan giao luu tinh cam, hod cai "toi" vao cai "ta " rdng ldn trudc cira Phat, cung la noi nhiing net dep van hoa ddc dao ciia dan tdc dugc bieu hien, nang niu, giii gin va phat trien, con ngudi den chua de thdp nen huong ll Phat, nhung ciing la de hudng tdi dieu td't dep trong cdi tam linh, cau mong lam them dugc nhung dilu thien, tranh dilu ac trong ddi. Chiia ciing la mdt net van hoa mang tfnh dan tdc cao, khdng the thieu dugc trong ddi sd'ng van hoa lang xa, chiem mdt vi trf kha dac biet va quan trgng trong di san van hoa Viet Nam; gdn liln vdi nilm tu hao vl lang xdm, que huang mdi ngudi, dd cung la mdt tac pham nghe thuat cd kfnh, trang nghiem ciia con ngudi nhdm hoa nhap vdi khung cdnh thien nhien tuai xanh tinh lang, gdp them cho biic tranh loan canh ciia lang que dugc hoan my.
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NENHirONG Chdc rdng khdng mdt ngudi Viet Nam nao khdng biet de'n nen huang (nen nhang), va cung khdng mdt ai trong cugc ddi chua tirng thdp mdt nen huong. Tir thud au tha, khi bdt ddu nhan biet, ban da thay dng ba, bd me thdp nhung nen huang tren ban thd ciing td tien. Rdi nhung ngay miing mdt, ngay rdm hang thang, cac ngay gid trong nam, nhung ngay hdi cudi hanh phiic, nhirng ngay tet, nhiing ngay tu sira md ma, nhirng ngay cd cdng viec he trgng nhu lam nha, di xa, di thi, ll d chiia, hdi he dinh dam d cac din, te ll d dinh mieu... diu phdi thdp huang: - Thdy me de'n dien thd Trdm huang khoi tod m Huang nhu Id sao lqc L Lap song ngudi 16 nho (Em di eMa |[u(|fng C o - Nguyen Nhirgc-f'hap) - Di ngang nghe khoi huang bay Nghe thdy tung niem a ddy co chua. -., • • - Vdo chua thap mot nen nhang ' ' Mieng khdn tay vdi bdn phuang chua ndy. • .. (Ca dao)
Giua giao thira, tiin nam cu di de ddn nam mdi, ngUdi ta cung thdp huang. 17
Den khi con ngudi nhdm mdt xudi tay tir gia cdi ddi, ngudi ta ciing thdp nhirng nen huang de vinh biet. Cd the ndi, nen huang nhu mdt nhan chirng chiing kien biet bao su thang tram, budn vui, theo sud't cudc ddi ciia mdt con ngudi. Khi thdp huang len, khdng khf linh thieng bao triim ta't cd. Su dn ao xd bd tan bien hit. Con ngudi chi cdn thanh thien, tam linh hudng vl nhirng dang vd hinh ky do, mau nhiem. Mdt su tmh lang trong tam hdn, de den vdi than linh va ngudi da mat giao thoa, hoa nhap. Nen huang la sgi nd'i giiia cdi am va cdi duang, giiia cai hiiu hinh va cai vd hinh, tiic la giiia ngudi sd'ng va ngudi chet. Dd la ldi kfnh can, thdng bao, mdi ngudi chet, than linh vl vdi cdi trdn. Nd ciing td Idng ta hudng vl cdi ngudn, td tien nhu vat chuyen tai tinh cam, chuyen tai nhung Idi cdu khan, khat vgng cua con ngudi de'n thdn linh va ngudi chet. Ngudi ta cdn cau mong sir ciiu giiip ciia than linh, cua hdn ngudi chet d ngay hien tai. Su ddi thoai ba chilu dd am vang trong Ian khdi huang menh mdng vd han. Trong "Truyen Kieu ", Nguyin Du mieu ta canh di thanh minh cua chi em Thuy Kilu, khi biet dugc nam "mo vo chii " ehdn cat Dam Tien, Thuy Kilu cung da "Sdn ddy ta thap mot vdi nen huang " thi huang hdn ciia Dam Tien da hien vl ndi chuyen vdi Thuy Kilu. Trong bai tha "Me Tam ", To Hun viet: .'••hiil .
18
"Dot nen huang tham, mdt da Ngudi Hdy ve vui chiit, me Tam ai!"
Nha tha thdp huang de the hien tinh cdm biet an ciia minh vdi me Tom. Vao nhirng ngay ky niem ldn cua dat nudc, tir nhirng vi lanh dao cao nhat ciia Dang va Nhd nudc, den ngudi dan thudng, dudng nhu ai cung den Dai tudng niem liet sy ciia Td qud'c xay dung tai quang trudng Ba Dinh. Ha Ndi de thdp huang. Dd la bat huang to nha't, cao nha't, linh thieng nhdt de cho nhirng ngudi dan Viet Nam giao hod tinh cdm, bill on den cac bac tiin bdi, anh hiing. liet sy da hy sinh vi da't nudc. Phai chang, nen huang la dao ly, Idng hieu thao, nghTa thuy chung, tinh cam "Udng nudc nhd nguon " ciia con ngudi, cua ca dan tdc. Huang thdp bao gid cung cd miii tham. Con ngudi quan niem miii tham la mui cua linh thieng, huyin bf. Miii tham ciia huang cung lam cho quy dir, ma thieng phai xa lanh. Nd cung khir dugc miii ue tap trong nhimg dam tang lanh leo, budn dau. Miii tham ciia huang cdn lam thu gian khiiu giac va lam cho hai thd tram Iai, em a, khdng nhiing the, miii tham ciia huang se lam cho khdng khf nhu diu mat them, trong Idnh han. Nd thoang thodng nhu miii hoa nhai, hoa cau, hoa budi, hoa thien ly d quanh nha - mdt su khac biet trong nhirng ngay thudng. Khi huang nghi ngiit tod bay nhu thau tdi cim triing, lam cho ngudi ta tin vao sir cdu mong ciia minh se thanh dat, la diem tua cho tam ly ciia con ngudi trong cudc sd'ng. 19
0 Viet Nam, cd Ie huang bdt dau dugc diing vao khoang ddu the ky thu II sau Cdng nguyen, tiic la tir khi dao Phat da du nhap vao nudc ta, liic ddu ngudi Viet Nam diing huang de II Phat, sau dd mdi diing trong gia dinh va cac cdng viec khac. Cung tir dd, nudc ta xua't hien nghi lam huang. Huang cd cac loai nhu: huang xa, tdng bai, tram, den, vdng ... Nguyen lieu chfnh de lam huang gdm: tam, huang lieu va chat kit dinh. Tam dugc lam bdng niia ngd banh te. Huang lieu la cac thiir: xa, tram, nhua tram, thdo qua, xuyen khung, sa nhan. Chat ket dinh lam bdng vd cay re rdt. Dem huang lieu tan nhd trdn diu vao chat ke't dinh. Sau dd dem nd bgc lay tam, khdng bgc het, de Iai mdt doan nhudm pham mau (dd, xanh, vang) la chan huong. Mud'n cho huang khdng dinh vao nhau khi bd cho vao the thi xoa them ft bdt vd cay dd, bd dl. Khi thdp huong, ngudi ta thudng chi thdp 1, 3 hoac 5 nen, tiic Id dimg sd Ie, thudc vl duang, thudc vl ngudi dang sd'ng. Di II chiia, din, dinh, mieu mao... chi thdp mdt nen huang. So 1 la so trdn, hgp bdi am duang, dugc coi la bao trum tat cd. Thdp huang mdt nen ggi la tam huong, cd y nghia 5 sdc huong tham, gdm: gidi huong (tu nhdc nhd minh giu viing gidi luat kieng ki), dinh huang (giii cho ldng yen dn trudc cam dd), tue huang (Idm cho trf tue minh mdn), gidi thoat huong (giiip Idng thoat khdi vdng hiem hoa cua nhiing ac nhan, nhiing ham mud'n tdi ldi), tri kien huang (virng tin tien de'n sir 20
giai thoat). Chi khi nao mud'n cd sir thay chuyen hoac hoang mang trudc mdt bie'n cd, thi mdi thdp 3 nen huang d chiia. Sd 3 la sd Ie. Khuynh hudng Ie bao gid cung mud'n chuyen thanh ehdn, thfch ddng, phii hgp vdi sir chuyen ddi. Nhiing ngay gid, tet d gia dinh, cung thdp 3 nen huong. Din va chiia nao cd thd Thanh Mdu Thugng Ngdn (rimg) thi thdp 5 nen huang, vd d nhung nai thd ngu hd tudng quan, cung thdp 5 nen huong. Cdn 7 nen huong chi dugc thdp vao ngdy rdm thang 7 (am lich). Cling ngoai trdi, cdm huang vao cay um tiim nhu cay da chang han, khdng cdm huong vao cay bd dl, cay dai. Nhiing cay um tiim Id noi hdi tu ciia linh hdn chiing sinh thap phuong. Thdp huong ca bd khdng the hien dilu gi. Neu td chitc II dang huong, thi thdp 3 nen huang, ciii minh lay 5 lay. Con so 3 va 5 d day la theo cac dao Giao, dao Phat: Tam quy (Phat, Phap, Tang), Ngu gidi (tranh sat sinh, ndi dd'i, trdm cudp, ta dam, rugu); dao Khdng: Tam cuong (quan than, phu tir, phu phu), Ngii thudng (nhan, nghia, ll, trf, tfn); dao Lao: Tam nguyen (trdi, da't, ngudi), Ngu hanh (kim, mdc, thuy, hod, thd). Khi thdp, cam huong dua dau nen huang vao lira nen hoac den cho chay dd. Sau dd, dimg hai tay dang huong len ngang tran, vai 3 vdi, rdi diing ca hai tay cdm vao bat huang tren ban thd. Chi dugc cam vao chan huong va phai de chay het tudn huong mdi tien hanh ha ll. Nen huang cdn tugng trung cho kiep sdng ciia ngudi phu nir trong xa hdi phong kien, sd'ng khep minh trong ndi nilm bep niic, minh biet phan minh tu chay, tu tan: 21
- Chdng buon co ehdn thd than, ,^ . " Thiep buon nhu ngon nhang tdn dem khuya. , ', .,., , , - Dem khuya, den tat, nhans, tdn ,;.,, ,,,. , Dekeu ru ri, da cdng sdu rieng. li'-f,':
(Cadao)
Trong dem td'i, chi cdn minh hg ddi mat vdi nen huong loe sang de budn tiii, trach than phan minh: Dem qua ddt dinh huang trdm ' '"' ' Khoi len nghi ngiit, dm thdm ldng ai. (Ca dao)
Mac dil vay, cd Iiic nen huong nhdc den chi la cai cd de trai thanh gai lich ngay xua giai bay tinh yeu: Bao gid cho huang hen hoa Khdn ddo ben tiii thi ta lay minh. Di ll chiia phai cd huong va hoa. Nhung mudn cho huang chay thi phai cd lira. Su gdn bd nay cung ben chat, thuy chung: -'''" "•" ''^ "- -'• - Bien tinh chim ndi, bdi rdi tu luang \ .• Thiep vdi chdng nhu lira vdi huang ;1,^., Mgt mai te dii huang tdn Ufa tdt, '•f .i'j Dgo ngliTa cuang thudng chd bo nhau. \\n<'.(\ - Lira huang hucmg lua man md De cho Chu Cdc lurp nhd Xitdn Lan. ^ '• n f.' - Lira nhen vira mdi ben trdm Trdch long cha me nd cdm duyen con. "
22
' ••
(Ca d a o )
Nen huong trong ca dao da chiia bao y nghTa la vay! Mdt tac pham van hgc ma ndi den nen huang nhilu nha't la "Truyen Kieu " ciia Nguyin Du. "Truyen Kieu " viet vl than phan cua ngudi phu nir "Thanh ldu hai lU0, thanh y hai ldn ", nen da cd tdi khoang 20 ldn ndi de'n nen huong. Dd la nhu'ng nen huang thdp de II Phat: Nen hucmg den trudc Phdt ddi. Cd nen huong thdp de ggi hdn, thd ciing: Huang hoa hom sdm phung thd. Cung cd nen huong thdp de thi nguyen: Tdi sinh chua di(t huang the. Nen huong thdp ddu tien trong "Truyen Kieu " la nen huong cdm tren ma Dam Tien. Nen huang cudi ciing la nen huong thdp trong dem tai hgp giira Kim Trgng va Thuy Kilu sau 15 nam xa each - nen huong CLia nilm vui: Khoi trdm cao thdp, tieng huyen gdn xa. Tran Te Xuong cung cd viet bdi tha Ndm "Mot nen tdm huang" ca nggi nen huong: Chl ben mgt nen tdm huang nguyen, Thudc thdnh bUa tien dt chdng chdy ! Nha tho cam ddng vi tam ldng ben bi san sdc ngay dem ciia ba Tii dem dem ddt nen huong. bat nudc cdu kha'n cho chdng khdi benh - nen nen huong cd tdc dung manh nhu thud'c thanh, biia tien. '23
Tuy nhd nhdn, mdnh mai, nhung vdi miii thorn ngao ngat, nen huong da cd siic manh hdi tu, doan ket con ngudi lai vdi nhau Iiic vui, khi budn, de hod quyen giiia am duong, lam cho con ngudi them tin va khat khao hon trong cudc sd'ng thudng nhat.
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PHAT GIAO THCII DINH - TIEN LE Dinh Bd LTnh sinh nam 924 (Giap Than), que d thdn Van Bdng, xa Gia Phuang, huyen Gia Viln, tinh Ninh Binh ngay nay. Cudi nam 967 sau khi da dep yen loan 12 sii quan, non sdng thu vl mdt md'i, dat nudc trd lai thd'ng nha't, nam 968 Dinh Bd LTnh len ngdi Hoang de, lay hieu la Dinh Tien Hoang, dat ten nudc la Dai Cd Viet, chgn Hoa Lu (xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu, tinh Ninh Binh ngay nay) la viing niii non ky thii nhung hiem trd de xay dung kinh dd - sau nay dugc coi la viing "Kinhdd Dd". Dd la kinh dd dau tien trong nin van minh Dai Viet ciia dan tdc, ciia nin phong kiln tap quyln d nudc ta. Lan ddu tien trong lich sir dan tdc Viet Nam, mdt trilu dai phong kien tap quyln da ra ddi la thdi nha Dinh (968-980), tiep dd la nha Tiln Le (980-1009) d xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu, tinh Ninh Binh. Thdi Dinh - T i l n Le (968-1009), Phat giao dugc coi la Qud'c giao, trd thanh he tu tudng chfnh thd'ng, chi phdi ddi sdng tinh thdn cua xa hdi. Cac nha su da trd thanh nhung tri thiic yeu nudc, ddng gdp vai trd rat quan trgng ddi vdi nin chfnh tri cua ddt nudc. Nam 971, vua Dinh Tien Hodng bdt ddu dinh pham trat cho cac quan van vd ddu trilu, cung ban chuc cho cac nha su. Su Ngd Chan Luu (933-1011) dugc giii chire quan Tang thdng la ngudi dirng ddu Phat giao, dugc ban hieu Khudng Viet dai su. Truong Ma Ni lam 25
Tang luc la chiirc quan trdng coi Phat giao dudi chiic Tang thdng. Ngd Chan Luu da tham gia hoat ddng chfnh tri, cd cdng rat ldn trong su nghiep xay dung trilu Dinh, trd thanh mdt thiln su tai diic song loan. De'n ddi Tien Le, vua Le Dai Hanh rat tdn trgng va kfnh ne Thien su Khudng Viet cimg vdi Thiln su Dd Phap Thuan. Hai Thiln su da mang het tai nang phuc vu da't nudc, dan tdc, ciing nhau vach dinh ke hoach phd ta nha Tiln Le, xay dung trilu chinh, ciing cd qud'c gia. Rieng nha su Phap Thuan, Vua Le Dai Hanh khdng ggi ten, ma chi ndi Dd phap su. Su Phap Thuan (chua rd que d dau) la ngudi cd tai trii tfnh, quyet dinh ke hoach cua trilu dinh, da giiip vua Le Dai Hanh trong viec soan thao cac van kien ngoai giao giiia nudc Dai Cd Viet va nha Td'ng (Trung Qud'c). Khoang nam 981-982, vua Le Dai Hanh da hdi su Phap Thuan vl ke sach ciia be tdi de giii nudc. Nha su Phap Thuan da tra Idi vua Le Dai Hanh bang bai tha "Qudc to": ;n-.i .p/H'^: "Qudc to nhu ddng lac, 'u:, [.'•• Nam thien ly thdi binh i;; ^'f.' ;;:•' iln!.;.
Vo vi cUdien cdc Xi't xic tuc dao binh ". Dich tho:
'vr i ^ n^'i 'wur
'-'• '• " ' •' ! I! ••! ''^' '••'' 26
VANNU^C
Van nudc nhu may quan Trdi Nam md thai binh Vd vi noi dien cac,
Chd'n chd'n diit dao binh. (Dodn Thdng dich - "Van tha Ly - TrSn", Tap I - NXB KHXH - Ha N6i - 1977)
Bai tho cd tfnh chfnh luan, ban vl viec nudc, ban vl chinh trj, nhung khdng khd khan, trim tugng ma vdn cd chat tho, vi da van dung hinh dnh hdm siic. Bai tho da neu cao tu tudng hod binh, thuang dan, cd tam nhin xa rdng, mang tfnh chat lau dai. Bai tha nay da dugc coi la tac pham ddu tien cua van hgc viet Viet Nam. Nam 987, sir nha Td'ng la Ly Giac de'n kinh dd Hoa Lu, vua Le Dai Hanh da cir nha su Phap Thuan ra tiep Ly Giac, ddng gia lam ngudi coi sdng, ddi dap tha rat tai tinh, hoan thanh cdng viec dugc giao, den ndi Ly Giac phai lam tho tang Phap Thuan. Vua Le Dai Hanh dgc bai tho ciia Ly Gidc tang Phap Thuan xong, cdn dua cho nha su Ngd Khudng Viet (Ngd Chan Luu) xem vd sai Khudng Viet lam bai hat de tiln Ly Giac. Xem the dii biet vua Le Dai Hanh da tin diing cac nha su nhu the nao ! Cac nha su thuc sir da cd nhilu ddng gdp Idn cho trilu dai Tiln Le. Nam 1007, vua Le Ngoa Trieu (Le Long DTnh) sai sii sang nha Td'ng xin kinh "Dai Tgng". 6 ddi vua Le Long DTnh, Thien su Van Hanh cung giiip dd nha vua giii nudc. Nhung do thdy vua sa doa. thoai hod nen da cd vai trd quyet dinh, iing hoLy Cdng Uan len ngdi vua cham diil thdi Tien Le. Dilu dd da khdng dinh vai trd rat quan trgng ciia cac nha su. 27
Chfnh vi the, thdi Dinh va Tiln Le, Phat giao d Ninh Binh phat trien manh, nhilu ngdi chiia dugc xay dung d kinh dd Hoa Lu nhu chiia Ba Ngd, chiia Thdp, chiia Dia, chua Am, chiia Ngdn, chiia Thu, chiia Nhat Tru. Trir chiia Thap da mat da'u tfch, chua khdi phuc Iai dugc, cdn cac ngdi chiia khac hien nay vdn cdn d khu vuc Cd dd Hoa Lu (xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu) va khdng nhiing d kinh dd Hoa Lu xay dung nhilu ngdi chua nhu vay, ma d nhilu noi trong nudc Dai Cd Viet khi dd diu xay dung rat nhilu ngdi chiia de thd Phat. Rieng chiia Nha't Tru toa lac d thdn Yen Thanh, xa Trudng Yen dugc xay dung tir thdi Tiln Le, qua nhilu Ian triing tu den nay vdn cdn kha nguyen ven. Dilu dac biet la trong khu vuc chiia cdn nguyen mdt cdt kinh da do vua Le Dai Hanh lam d nien hieu iing Thien thii 2, nam 995 de dang nhd Phat vi nhd Vua rat tin vao dao Phat, tin vao su linh iing ciia kinh Phat. Dieu dd chiing td Phat giao d thdi Dinh va Tiln Le phat trien rat manh, trd thanh qud'c dao, cac nha su da trd thanh cac nha hoat ddng chfnh tri, tham gia giiip vua tri vi nudc. Phat giao da gdp phan trd thanh sure manh tinh thdn va tu tudng xay dung y thiic dan tdc va van hoa dan tdc Viet Nam.
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CHUA 6 NINH BINH Trong dan gian Viet Nam, vdn cd cau: "Ddt vua, chiia ldng, phong cdnh but" - chiia gdn vdi lang va la mdt san pham cua van hoa lang. Dd la cdng trinh kien triic ddc dao lam nai thd Phat. Kien triic ciia cac ngdi chiia Viet Nam diu Id mdt tdng gid'ng nhu nhiing ngdi nhd d Idng que. Nd cung Id mdt toa nha to, rdng hinh chir "dinh " (X) (chu 'T"), phdn ngang la Tiln dudng, phdn dgc la Chinh dien hay Thugng dien - chd tham nghiem de thd Phat. Chiia cdn dugc xay dung theo kieu chir "Tam " (_-^—) vdi ba day nha chfnh: Tiln dudng, Thieu huong, Thugng dien, hoac theo kieu "ngi cong ngogi qudc " (ben ngoai chii "qudc ", ben trong chii "cong" (Han tur)). O Ninh Binh trong cac lang que diu cd nhung ngdi chiia nhu the. Nhung dilu dang chii y nhat la d noi day cd mdt so chiia dugc xay dung rat sdm. Mdt ngdi chiia d thdn Ddng Hdi, xa Ninh An, huyen Hoa Lu da dugc xay dung tir trudc thdi Hai Ba Trung. Chiia Tan Yen thudc thdn Tien Yen, xa Khanh Lgi, huyen Yen Khanh da cd tir trudc nam 541. Chiia Ban Long d thdn Khe Ddu Thugng, xa Ninh Xuan. huyen Hoa Lu dugc hinh thanh tir trudc the ky thii X. Ta'm bia d vach nui Dai Tugng khdc vao the ky XVI, nien hieu Nguyen Hod, tiic la ddi vua Le Trang Tdng (Duy Ninh) (1533-1548), cho biet: 'Tit thdnh cd Hoa Lu men theo nid dd md di ve phia Nam den ldng Khe 29
Ddu ddo CO chiia Bdn Long. Ddy Id danh thdng tie ngdn xua. Trdi cdc trieu Dinh. Le. Ly. Trdn, chiia ndy cdng them ndi tieng". Chiia Hoa Son d thdn ang Ngu, xa Ninh Hoa, huyen Hoa Lu cung cd trudc thdi Dinh. Chiia da cd tir lau, la nai nudi du chua. Cho nen cd ten la Phdi Sinh Tur. Nhan dan viing nay quen ggi la chiia Ba De. Bdi vi, thdi Dinh, de bao ve au chiia, nen da dua au chiia vl giau d chiia nay. Chiia Thien Tdn thudc thi tran Thien Tdn, huyen Hoa Lu ngay nay, cung dugc xay dung tir trudc thdi Dinh. Khi mdi diing ddu mdt sii quan, trudc liic dem quan di dep loan 12 sii quan, Dinh Bd LTnh nghe ddn ddng Thien Tdn thd thdn Tran Vu Thien Tdn rat thieng va d dd cd chiia, nen cung da tiing sira II vat vao cdu ddo trong ddng va chiia de mong Phat va than Thien Tdn giiip dd. Thdi Dinh va Tien Le, d khu vuc Kinh dd Hoa Lu (thudc xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu) da xay dung nhilu chua. Chiia Thap cd thap Bao Thien ndm gdn sdng Hodng Long, dugc xay dung d thdi Dinh. Chiia Ba Ngd ciing ndm gan sdng Hodng Long dugc xay dung d thdi Dinh. Chiia Dia, chiia Am ndm d khu vuc Thanh Ngoai thudc Kinh dd Hoa Lu cung cd d thdi Dinh. Chiia Nhat Tru, dugc xay dung tir ddi vua Le Dai Hanh. Trudc cira chiia cd cdt kinh bdng da hinh tam canh, khdc bai "Kinh Ldng Nghiem ". Chiia Ngdn ndm trong Thanh Ndi d 30
Kinh dd Hoa Lu dugc xay dung tir thdi Tiln Le. Nhu the d Ninh Binh cd rat nhieu ngdi chiia cd. Dieu ddc dao thir hai cua chiia d Ninh Binh la nhimg chiia Idn diu ndm trong cac mii da. Neu d tinh Ha Tay cd chiia ldn nhat nudc - chiia Huong - "Nam thien de nhdt dgng" ndm trong mii da, thi d Ninh Binh cd "Nam thien de nhi dgng", "Nam thien de tam dgng" cung ndm trong mii da. Khi xay dung Kinh dd Hoa Lu (xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu), Vua Dinh Tien Hoang da dua vao nhilu trai niii de lam thanh, dimg mdt sd hang ddng de lam kho, dng da bie't khai thac triet de thien nhien nhdm phuc vu cho con ngudi. Vi the ngudi dan thdi dd cung dua vao mdt sd hang ddng dep de lam chua. Ninh Binh la viing cd nhilu mii da vdi nen cd nhilu hang ddng dep. Ban than cac hang ddng dd da dep rdi, nen lam chiia d trong hang ddng cang dep them len. Dd la sir hod nhap giira con ngudi va thien nhien. Nhiing chiia ldn d Ninh Binh ndm trong hang ddng, bay gid la nhirng diem tham quan du lich hap ddn va ly thii nhu: chiia Bfch Ddng d xa Ninh Hai, huyen Hoa Lu, dugc menh danh la ddng dep thii hai d trdi Nam; chiia Dich Long d xa Gia Thanh, huyen Gia Viln, dugc menh danh la ddng dep thiir ba d trdi Nam. Ngoai ra, Ninh Binh cdn khoang 15 chiia khac cung ndi tieng ndm trong cac hang ddng dep la: chiia Ban Long (xa Ninh Xuan, huyen Hoa Lu), chiia Hoa San (xa Ninh Hod, huyen Hoa Lu), chiia Dia. chiia Am, chiia Am Tiem (xa Trudng Yen, huyen 31
Hoa Lu), chiia Phong Phu. chiia Trung Trir (xa Ninh Giang, huyen Hoa Lu). chiia Ddng Mat (xa Yen Son. thi xa Tam Diep), chua Hang (xa Yen Mac, huyen Yen Md), chiia Bai Dinh (xa Gia Sinh, huyen Gia Vien), chiia Thanh San (xa Gia Van, huyen Gia Viln), chiia Linh Cdc (xa Ninh Hdi, huyen Hoa Lu), chiia Ky Lan (xa Gia Phuang, huyen Gia Viln)... Ta't cd nhiing chua ndy diu Id hang ddng, ma hang ddng thi cd tir lau Idm. Ngudi xua tha'y ddng dep nen mdi lay ddng lam chua thd Phat. Ddng cao sau nen "chila" cdng rdng Idn. Trong "chiia " vi vay cang chiia dung nhilu pho tugng Phat va nhirng nhu da dep ky thii. Cd chiia Bdn Long, vi ngudi xua phat hien trong ddng cd nhu da mang hinh con rdng ngdi va vach da tren cao d giira ddng cd mdt nhii da gid'ng hinh tugng Phat dang cudi ngua trdng, nen bien ddng lam chiia. Chiia Dich Long d xa Gia Thanh cung vay. Ngudi dan d day di kie'm cui, phat hien ra ddng, vao trong thay cd nhilu nhu da dep, dac biet trdng thay mdt nhu da cd hinh gid'ng nhu tugng Phat nen lap chiia thd Phat ngay tii dd. Chiia Hoa Son cung cd mdt nhu da d gan cudi hang Trung trdng gid'ng nhu tugng Phat ngdi uy nghiem. Nhung ngdi "chua " do thien nhien kien tao nen, khdng phdi triing tu, dai tu thi chi Ninh Binh mdi cd nhilu nhu vay, vi d day cd nhilu mii da vdi, nd da trd thanh nhu'ng danh lam thdng canh, cud'n hiit dugc nhilu du khach trong va ngoai nudc de'n tham thii, chiem ngudng ve dep nai day. 32
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Dilu ddc dao thii ba ve chua d Ninh Binh la mdt sd ngdi chiia ndm trong hang ddng dep, diu dugc cac vua chiia den tham thii va dat ten cho chtia. Chiia Ban Long da dugc chiia Trinh Sam den tham vd dat ten la "Bdn Long Tu". Chiia Bfch Ddng chiia Trinh Sam cung den tham va dat ten la "Bich Dgng ". Chiia Dich Long da dugc vua Minh Mang den tham va tang cho 5 chir "Nam thien de tam dgng ". Nam 1842, vua Thieu Tri cung den tham chiia Dich Long va ban tang cho chiia 100 quan tiln. Chiia Tliuy San (chiia Non Nudc) toa lac d phfa Bdc chan mii Canh Dilu (Nggc My Nhan) thudc thi xa Ninh Binh, nam Minh Mang thii 2, vua Minh Mang ciing den tham chiia, ben canh chiia cd mdt gieng da nudc trong va ngon, sdc chi lay nudc dang, vi vay ggi la Gieng Ngu. Chiia Hoa San vua Tur Diic ciing den tham va dat '" ' ten cho chiia la Hoa San. Ngoai ra, mdt sd chiia d Ninh Binh cdn dugc nha vua true tiep cho xay dung. Chiia Sd d thdn Van Lam, xa Ninh Hdi, huyen Hoa Lu do vua Trdn Thai Tdng vl day lap Hdnh cung Vu Lam da cho xay dung. Vua Trdn Thai Tdng cdn lap ra chiia A Nau thudc thdn Dai Nhan, nay thudc thi xa Ninh Binh, cap cho chiia 160 sao rudng. Cac Vua Trdn cdn cho xay dung chiia Ddu d xa Khanh Hod, huyen Yen Khanh de Hoang tir va Cdng chiia den dd tu hanh. Nhu the mdt sd chiia d Ninh Binh da gdn lien vdi ten tudi cac vua chiia qua cdc trieu dai phong kien. Dd cung la nilm tu hao ciia chiia Ninh Binh manh dat Cd dd xua. 33
6 Ninh Binh cho den hien nay, cd gdn 25 ngdi chiia da dugc Nha nudc cdng nhan la Di tich Lich sU Van hoa, the hien sir ddng gdp dang ke trong viec phuc vu Igi ich cua dat nudc. Trong thdi ky each mang, khang chien chd'ng Phap, chd'ng My ciiu nudc nhung ngdi chua dd da trd thanh co sd each mang, nudi giau, che chd cho can bd, bd ddi, la dia diem hgp ciia nhilu hdi nghi quan trgng. Mdt net ddc dao nua la, chiia ciia Ninh Binh vdn tdn tai d ngay vting cdng giao, tieu bieu la chiia Ddng Ddc thudc xa Ddng Hudng, huyen Kim San - ngdi chiia Idn nha't d viing cdng giao Kim San. Nhiing ngudi dan theo dao Phat va ngay cd nhiing ngudi dan cdng giao Kim Son ciing diu den ll phat d chiia Ddng Ddc. Chiing ta diu biet d cac ngdi chiia diu dugc dung bia da ghi Iai lich cua chiia, ca nggi Phat, ca nggi canh dep ciia chiia va ghi ten nhirng ngudi ciing tien xay dung, tu sira chua. O Ninh Binh ciing vay, chua nao Cling cd bia. Nhung dilu khac biet la cac bia d day thudng la nhiing bia cd va cdn dugc cham khdc tren cac vach niii. Chiia Am Tien d xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu, tren vach da cira ddng, cham khdc bia cd nien dai 1179. Chua A Nau d phudng Ninh Khanh, thanh phd Ninh Binh cd bia cham khdc tai phia tay nam mdt vach mii Seu vao theky XIV. Phia tay phai gan Id'i di len niii Due Thuy d thdnh phd Ninh Binh cd bia cham khdc bai "Due Thuy son Linh Te thdp ky" cua Truang Han Sieu ben vach mii vdo nam 1343. Chiia Ban Long d xa Ninh Xuan, 34
huyen Hoa Lu cd tain bia khdc tren vach niii Dai Tugng vao the ky XVI,.... Nhirng bia nay, ngoai gia tri lich sir cdn the hien gia tri van hgc, gia tri dan tdc hgc can dugc nghien ciin. Khdng nhtfng the, chua d Ninh Binh khdng chi thd Phat, ma cdn thd ca Thanh, "Tiln Phat, hau Than". Chiia Dau (xa Khanh Hoa, huyen Yen Khanh) thd Cdng chiia Huyin Tu vd Hoang tii Cau Vuang nhd Trdn. Chiia A Nau (phudng Ninh Khanh, thanh phd Ninh Binh) thd Trdn trilu va Cdng chiia Tran Nggc Mdt nha Tran. Chiia Dau Long (phudng Tan Thanh, thdnh phd Ninh Binh) thd 9 vi gdm: Thdn Quy Minh, Vua Le Dai Hanh, Nguyin Bac, Trdn Hung Dao, Nguyen Tir Qudc Mdu, Trdn Qud'c Tang, Truang Han Sieu, Phd Hd Dai Vuong va Thanh Hoang... Cd Ie, chinh vi cd nhirng net ddc dao dd ciia chua d Ninh Binh, cho nen, hien nay Ninh Binh dang xay dung mdt ngdi chiia ldn nha't Viet Nam d gdn khu vuc chiia Bai Dinh thudc xa Gia Sinh, huyen Gia Viln, dd la Khu chiia Bai Dinh mdi. Dilu dd cd nghia la d Ninh Binh cdn cd mdt ngdi chiia Idn nhat nudc se hodn thdnh trong nay mai. Phai chang, tir the ky thii X, tai Kinh dd Hoa Lu, Phat giao dugc coi la Qud'c giao, trd thanh he tu tudng chfnh thd'ng, chi phd'i ddi sd'ng tinh than ciia xa hdi, cac nha su da trd thanh nhirng trf thiic yeu nudc, ddng gdp vai trd rat quan trgng dd'i vdi nin chfnh tri ciia da't nudc, vi the, Phat gido d Ninh Binh cd co hdi phat triin manh, rat nhilu chiia dugc xay dung va cd nhiing net ddc dao, dac sdc rieng./. 35
PHAN THLT HAI
NHUNG CHUA TIEU BIEU
• ; . ! ' ; ;
CHUA 6 HUYEN HOA LU^
'•'H.
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CHUA BICH DONG "NAM THIEN DE NHI D O N G "
t, i ' ; ! r ij e
Chiia Bfch Ddng xay dung tren sudn niii Bfch Ddng thugc thdn Dam Khe Trong, xa Ninh Hai, huyen Hoa Lu. Bfch Ddng la mdt trong nhirng thdng cdnh ndi tieng nha't ciia tinh Ninh Binh dugc menh danh Id "Nam thien de nhi dgng ", cd nghTa la ddng dep thii nhi trdi Nam, sau ddng Huang Tfch d tinh Ha Tay. Chiia Bfch Ddng da cd tir lau, va bdt dau bdng mdt ngdi chiia cdn rat nhd hep. Vao ddi vua Le Du Tdng, nien hieu VTnh Thinh, khoang nam 1705, cd hai vi hoa thugng, phap danh la Trf Kien va Trf The, mdt ngudi que d Vgng Doanh, mdt ngudi que d Ddng Xuyen, thudc huyen NghTa Hung, tinh Nam Dinh gap nhau rdi kit nghTa lam anh em. Hai nha su diu cd Idng md dao, mud'n di nhilu noi de truyln ba dao Phat va xay dung cac ngdi chiia. Den day, thdy niii Bfch Ddng cd dia the tuyet dep va da cd chiia, nen hai nha su quyet dinh dirng chan, tu minh sira sang chiia cii, di quyen giao xay dung lai thanh 3 ngdi chiia: Ha, Trung va Thugng de tu hanh'". Nam Dinh Hgi (1707), hai nha su Trf Kien va Tri The da due mdt qua chudng (l)-Sdch 'Dqi Nam iiluit Ihdng chi" CO giu: "Niii Bich Ddng: ... Ddi LeVinh Thinh (1705 -1719). cd hai nha suld suTii Kien \a suTri The dmgba ngoi chiiaThircmg,Trung. Hg".
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ldn, hien cdn treo d Ddng Td'i. Hai nam sau, nam Ky Sim (1709), vao thang 8 (am lich), hai nha su Trf Kien va Tri The Iai Idm bai minh bia chiia Bfch Ddng bdng chir Han, trong dd cd doan: Phien am: Tu son liiy tfch Phiic ngd thien duyen : " ' ' ^. Khai son tac thach Uan khi luu truyen Dich nghTa: Titng len mii dy Co phUc CO duyen
-Coy kiin cho rang: Ba ngoi chua Hg. Trung, Thugng a mi Bich Dgng hien nay do hai nha suTri Kien vd Tri The xdy dung tic nam 1428. Dieu dd khdng dung. Sdch "Dgi Nam nhdt thdng chi" dd ghi, ba ngdi chiia do do hai nhd suTri Kien vd Tri The xdy dung td ddi vua Le VTnh Thinh (1705 -1719). Xdy dipig xong chiia, cdc nhd sumdi diic chuong. Hien nay qua chudng dd vdn cdn, treo a Ddng Tdi dd cham khdc chit Hdn tren chuong, dugc diic vdo ndm Dinh Hgi (1707). Hai nhd suTri Kien vd Trf The khong the sdng tit ndm 1428 den ndm 1707 de diic chuong dugc. Xdy dinig chiia xong, diic chuong, dep dd hai nhd suTri Kien va TriThemcn Idm bdi minh bia chiia Bich Dgng. Bdi minh bia dd dugc viei vdo ndm Ky Sim (1709). Vi vay, chimg toi khdng dinh: Chiia Bich Dgng dd cd tit ldu ddi, nhimg den khoang ndm 1705 thi hai nhd su Tri Kien va Tri The mdi lu sua xdy dung lgi thdnh ba ngoi chiia Hg, Trung, Thugng d ben sudn mii Bich Dgng. 38
7m/z khi luu truyen. . . . ; .•'' • -'. A, -'.V Khoang nam Giap Ngg (1774), llnh Dd Vuang Trinh Sam (1767-1782) da dl^n tham chiia va dat ten cho chiia la Bfch Ddng. Bfch Ddng la Ddng Bfch, cd nghTa la Ddng Xanh. Cd Ie khi chiia Trinh Sam den day, nhin toan canh niii, ddng, sdng nudc, ddng rudng, cay cdi diu xanh tuoi, chiia nhu hdi tu nin xanh dd nen phai la Ddng Xanh, cai ten rat dep va mdng mo. Chiia Bfch Ddng la mdt cdng trinh kiln triic cd nhu nhiing ngdi chua khac xay dung bang gd lim, mai Igp bdng ngdi ta khdng cd mau, miii lugn tr.dn, cac gdc cua mai diu cd dau dao cong viit len nhu hinh ludi dao hoac nhu hinh dudi con chim phugng, lam cho mai udn lugn, uyen chuyen nhu sdng nudc thuy trilu, nhin ban dien cd hinh anh mdt chiec thuyln rdng ngoan muc trdi tren nudc hoac nhu hai canh chim dang dang rdng de bay len. Nhung dilu ddc dao cua chiia Bich Ddng la xay dung theo kieu chir "tam " (Han tu), ba toa khdng liln nhau, tam cap dgc theo sudn niii, dua vao the niii tir tha'p len cao thanh 3 ngdi chiia rieng biet: chiia Ha, chiia Trung va chiia Thugng. ''^ Dilu ddc dao thii hai cua chua Bfch Ddng la mii, ddng vd chiia dan hoa, bd sung cho nhau, dn hien giua nhiing cay dai thu xanh biec, lam cho canh tri thien nhien xung quanh chua hoa nhap vdi nhau mdt each ngoan muc. Todn cdnh nai day nhu mdt biic tranh mil rimg hoanh trang, dat len mdt phii dieu cd 3 ngdi chiia cd kfnh, mai 39
ngdi reu phong, cd dii 8 canh dep ma ngudi xua da ggi la "Bich San bdt cdnh ": Phien am: Phugng tap Tam quan " Long ban cim tinh ^Thach tugng tham thiln Mai miet xuat ddng Ddng Bfch thdng thuyln Tay kilu do khach Binh son diep thuy Khe luu oanh hdi Dich nghia: Chim phuang tdi tu tap a Tam quan Rdng cuon a chin gieng ' ' Tuang dd chdu Phdt Ba ba ra dgng •
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Thuyen di qua vdch niii phia Dong ,. . , ,^, Cdu phia Tdy cho khdch qua , Niii binh phong xanh biec Khe chdy quanh co. Dilu ddc dao thii ba ciia chua Bfch Ddng Id 3 ngdi chua dugc xay dung tren sudn mii cao, dudi gam mii lai cd Ddng Xuyen Thuy dai 350 met chdy theo chilu dgc, chiia dung nudc trong rudt niii. Rat hiem cd nai nao ma mii vira cd chiia vira cd ddng xuyen thuy nhu the. 40
Dieu ddc dao thii 4 la d mii Bfch Dgng cd 3 ngdi chua: Ha, Trung, Thugng, lai cd 3 ddng gdm 2 ddng khd va 1 ddng nudc hinh thdnh theo kieu chii "tam " (Han tu). Dudi da't la Xuyen Thuy Ddng, lung chimg mii la Ddng Bfch dm ggn lay dien Mdu va chtia Trung, ben tren chiia Trung Id Ddng Td'i. Cung rat hiem cd mdt trai niii lai cd tam cdc d trong nhu vay. Dd cung la dilu ky dieu ciia niii Bfch Ddng. Chiia Bfch Ddng quay lung vl mii, phfa trudc lai cd ddng sdng Cdu. Nudc tir Thung Ndng va Hang Ha each niii Bfch Ddng khoang 4 ki - Id - met chdy vao sdng Cdu rdi xudi ra sdng Cdu Yen, tao ra the "tien thuy, hdu san". '•'• '••'- Qua la mdt the dat, mdt dang mii dac biet, thieng lieng, phong quang, thoang dang, tu thuy, tu linh, tu diic, thu hiit dugc sinh lire tir tren cao xud'ng thap, tao ra am duong ddi dai hoan hao.
Vao chiia Bfch Ddng, trudc het di qua 2 mom mii nhd ra sat dudng. Ben phai la mdm mii Nha Than, ben trai la mdm mii Md Phugng. Hai niii dung 2 ben dudng nhu mgt cdng da, dugc ggi la Tam Quan Mdt. Di 50 met nira cung gap 2 mdm mii nhd ra sat dudng. B(jn phai la mdm mii Nha Than, ben trdi la mdm mii Tam Quan, vi thdi xua, giiia hai mdm mii nay, Tam Quan dugc dung bdng gd lim, mai Igp gianh. Tam Quan sau nay dd nat, 41
khdng xay dung Iai d day niia, vi the hai mdm mii nay coi nhu thay the va dugc ggi la Tam Quan Hai. 6 vach niii Tam Quan, hien cdn 3 chii qud'c ngir Idn: "TitBg Thuc " va chu sd 1942, cham khdc ndi, nhu mdt ta'm bia ghi Iai cdng lao ciia Tuan phii Ninh Binh khi dd la Tir Bd Thuc da lam con dudng rdng nd'i tir qudc Id lA, qua xa Ninh Thdng vao den chiia Bich Ddng tir nam 1942. Qua Tam Quan Hai, coi nhu da vao chiia. Di khoang tren 80 met nua, ben trai cd cay gap to. Day la cay vii tru. Id bac thang nd'i trdi dat. Gai d than cay la bac thang leo len trdi. Miia xuan, hoa gao nd dd thdm tudng chirng nhu cd cay gao da hoa thanh lira. Di mdt doan nua, se tdi cdu da, ggi la Thach Kilu cong cong hinh vdng cung, dai gdn 10 met bdc ngang qua ddng sdng Cdu. Bay gid ddng sdng Cdu khdng cdn, chi tha'y ben tay phai la mdt ddm sen. Miia he den day vao budi sang, suang tan ddn, ndng mdi len chieu lap lanh nhiing hoa sen, la sen cdn loang loang suang dem, dudng nhu mud'n hut lay anh sang mat trdi Iiic ban mai, lung linh sdc mau huyin dieu, la sen phat sang nhu nggc, chgt ggi cho ta lien tudng den nhiing cau ca dao: • ' -.tl;; . • 1 'Trong ddm gi dep bdng sen •'"V Ld xanh bong trdng lgi chen nhi vdng J .">' 1 .• ! ... yy/j,- vang, bong trang, Id xanh • "' Gdn biin md chdng hoi tanh miii biin " 42
Sen dugc trdng d chiia Id bieu tugng cua cdi niet ban, mang yeu td am. Hoa sen thudng gdn vdi dao Phat. Phat ngu tren tod sen va Phat niem hoa sen: tay cam mdt doa sen dua len cao qua vai. Sen cdn dugc coi la nai sinh ra cac bac Dai gidc. Tugng Phat Ba Quan The Am Bd Tat bao gid cung ngdi tren toa sen. Budc qua cdu da, la Tam Quan thii ba do con ngudi mdi tao dung. Tam Quan xay 3 cira gdm: cira Hiiu, ciia Vd d hai ben, cira Dai d giira gdm ca Vd va Hiin. Ndi dung cua Tam Quan Id mdt tuyen ngdn ba Id'i nhin ciia dao Phat: khdng quan, da quan va trung quan. Trung quan la di vao chfnh dao. Qua Tam Quan, phfa ben trai la mdt cay si mgc tren mii um tum xanh mudt, dudi dat cd hdn niii nhd trdng nhu hai chiec banh day khdng Id ep vao nhau. Dd la hdn niii Banh Day. Tuang truyen, nhung ai ddi khd den day, sd vao niii Banh Day se dugc am no. Do bi bao lam gay canh, cay si bay gid khdng cdn um tiim nhu trudc niia. d day cd con dudng ben chan mii dai khoang 55 met lat gach la con dudng tugng trung cho "Nhd't chinh dgo" de di vao chiia Ha. Khu vuc chiia Ha rdng chimg 3 mdu. Trudc cira chiia la mdt san gach rdng, cd gieng nudc, hai ben la hai day nha Trai, mdi day 7 gian. Hien nay, hai day nha Trai dugc xay lai cao to han, mdi day cdn 5 gian. xay 2 tang mai. gdm 8 mai udn cong, la nai tang chiing hdi hgp va nghi ngai. Vudn chiia thi cd nhilu cay luu nien. cay an qua sum sue, hoa trai nggt ngao, huong tham em diu bao 43
phil 5 ngdi thap la 5 ngdi md ciia nhiing nha su da timg tru tri va vien tich ngay d day. Du khdch dung d giiira san gach nhin len se thay cd 5 nggn niii diing xung quanh chiia Bich Ddng trdng gid'ng nhu 5 canh hoa sen. Hai nggn niii td hiru dung diing, nhd cao nhu hai cdt ddng tru. D\x6i san gach sat nen chiia Ha, hien nay dat hai con su tit chau, con rdng cudn d giiira. Chiia Ha quay hudng lay bdc, toa lac dudi chan mii Bfch Ddng. ndm tren nin cao han 2 met so vdi san gach, dugc ke bdng da phiin. Cd 2 Idi len chiia ndm vl hai phfa bac nam diu cd 9 bac da. Xung quanh chiia, d gdn 2 hdi va phfa sau chiia cd 5 thap mg. Nhu'ng thdp cao 3 tdng Id thap ehdn cat cac Hoa thugng. Ben trai hdi chiia dat mdt chiec khanh da to, gd vao am vang nhu khdnh ddng va cung khdng phai dl dang tim dugc loai da cd am thanh nhu the de tao khdnh. Hai ddu san chua Ha la hai cay cd thu cd tudi thg tren 100 nam. Cay mil trdng d phfa trai san chiia. Cay thi trdng d phfa phai san chiia. Cung gidng nhu cac ngdi chiia khac d lang que Viet Nam, kien triic chiia Ha theo kieu chii "dinh ", phdn ngang la Tiln dudng 5 gian. phdn dgc la Thugng dien 2 gian, cd nhiing cdt gd lim va cdt da cao to. Vi keo, xa ngang, xa dgc cung bdng gd lim. Mai chiia Id hai tang mai ud'n cong, gdm 8 mai. VT nin chiia cao hon san chiia gan mdt met va phai budc len 3 bac da nen chiia cd them hien, tao them mdt mai thap nira khien cho khi nhin phia 44
trudc chiia nhu cd 3 tang mai. Hien nay rgng 2 met, dung bang 6 cdt da. Hai hdi ciia chiia va xung quanh chiia xay toan bdng da thudc. O Thugng dien dung toan bang cdt da. Cdc cdt da d chiia Ha diu \aidng. cao han 4 met, liln mdt khdi, khdng chdp ndi. Neu cd mdt ldn ban tdi tham, tan mdt chiing kien cdnh chiia va nhirng cdt da dd, ban se thay nhiing cdt da ay dugc sir dung xay dung chiia qua la mdt ky cdng ra sao! Qua hien chiia budc qua bac ciia gd chiing ta mdi vao dugc Tiln dudng. . ~ , r Tiln dudng d cac ngdi chua khac thudng dat hai tugng Hd Phap, cdn ggi la Kim Cuong. Ong trir ac, mac do giap. ddi mu tru, cam binh khf, hinh dang rat diir tgn, chan di giay, cd khi dirng hoac cudi tren con sau la mdt loai vat tudng tugng, gdn gid'ng su tir. Cdn dng Khuyen Thien hay dng Thien, tay cdm trai dao. Nhung rieng d chiia Ha nay, ben tay phai chi dat mdt tugng Hd Phap diing, hai tay chdp. Ben tay trai dd'i dien vdi tugng Hd Phap la tugng Diic Quan, bieu tugng cho cac quan nha Nguyin da cd cdng tu sira xay dung chiia. Tugng da gdn tugng Hd Phap d ben tay phai la tugng Diic Ong. Tugng da gdn tugng Dire Quan d ben tay trai la tugng Diic Thanh Hiin. Hai gian hai ben gdn hdi trong Tien dudng dat thd cac tugng To. Gian ben trai la 3 tugng: Trf Kien. Tri The va Tri Tam da cd cdng xay dung chiia Bich Ddng. 6 tren cao ciia gian giiira Tiln dudng treo biic dai tu bdng chir Han "Mcio cd thdn thanh ". cd nghTa la dang dap ngdi chiia xua nay thieng ldm! 45
Nin ciia Thugng dien cao han Tien dudng gan mdt met va cd 3 bac da budc len. Trong Thugng dien la noi thd Phat, cd cac be thd tir tren cao xudng thap dat cac tugng Phat va cac dd thd nhu dinh huong, cay den,... Hdi ben phai cd gdn mdt ta'm bia Idn lam tir thdi Nguyin ghi ten nhiing ngudi cd cdng diic xay dung va tu sira chiia. Tir chiia Ha, neu re sang tay phai, budc khoang 80 bac da men quanh sudn niii theo hinh chiir "S", diing quay vl vach mii d phfa ben phai, se thay mdt tam bia gdn tren vach mii. Dd la bai tho chii Han va bai dich ciia Bd Chfnh Quang Ninh (la Cir nhan Dd Kiem Thien, ngudi thdn Khd Luong, xa Ninh Thdng, huyen Hoa Lu, tinh Ninh Binh) Idm vao nam Ky Mao, nien hieu Bao Dai, tii'c la nam Bao Dai thir 14 (1939). Phien am: Dam Khe hiiu Bfch Ddng ddng du nga vi lan Hoa ddng thien triing ha bd dl van kiep xuan Mai ham Tam Cdc thuy can a'p Thai Vi van Thien nga quy Iai nhat hoang hoa ddc cd nhan. Dich nghTa: ,, :r, ; Bich Dgng a Dam Khe cung vdi ta gdn ke Nghin trimg mach hoa dgng muon kiep cdnh bo de ... Ba hang dimg nudc lgi den Thdi Vi mdy che Cdn do hoa Kim Ciic miing nay gap bgn be. Budc len gan 40 bac da niia, tdi lung chirng mii la den chiia Trung. Dudng len chiia Trung va dudng len chiia Thugng diu rgp bdng cay, cac cay dai thu cao to mgc hai ben dudng phu mdt mau xanh mudt mat. Do 46
cao chenh nhau tir chiia Ha len chiia Trung la khoang tren 30 met. , .Vach mii den day hdm vao, cao rdng nhu mieng con rdng dang ha hit cd. Ham tren cua rdng la nhirng tang da dua ra nhu mai hien ciia nhd. Ham dudi cua rdng dugc san phdng, xay bao Ion lam biic thanh cua san chua. Cd hgng rdng chinh la mdt ddng ldn, rdng sau chiira ggn mdt ngdi chiia ben trong. Dii'ng d san chiia Trung nhin len cao, thay mai da tren sudn mii dua ra che rgp ca san. Phia tren mai chiia Trung d vach da thang diing cd biic dai tur da cham khdc hai chii Han "Bich Dgng", viet theo Id'i dai tu chan phuang, khudn chiir dai tdi 1,5 met. Vao cudi nam Giap Ngg, tuc la nam 1774, sau khi ddn quan di tuan hanh d bien gidi, liic trd vl, chiia Trinh Sam va cd ca Nguyin Nghilm di theo, da ghe tham chiia rdi dat ten cho chiia Id Bfch Ddng. Cho nen d ben chiir Bich Ddng cd mdt ddng chii nhd ghi "Nhdt Nam Nguyen chii dgc biit" (Biit tich cua ngudi dung ddu nudc Nhat Nam)*". Lai cd chir "Nguyin NghiSm phung de" (Nguyin Nghilm viet). Nguyin Nghilm la than sinh ciia dai thi hao Nguyin Du, ngudi Idng Tien Diin, huyen Nghi Xuan, tinh Ha TTnh, dd Hoang Giap nam VTnh Khdnh thiif 3, tlie nam 1731, d ngdi Te tudng. da tuan phung lenh ciia chiia Trinh Sam ma viet chu nay. Day chinh la (I)- Trudc ddy, deu cho rdng: Hai chd "Bich Dgng " Id do Nguyin Nghiiin dgi ten cho chiia. Dieu dd khdng ditng. \ . .-. •. . > , > .•, i-.
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biit tfch duy nhat cua Nguyin Nghilm tren vach nui cd dugc d Ninh Binh. Dugc biet, de khdc cac chir nay, nhirng nghe nhan phai lam rdng ra trong 8 thang trdi mdi xong. Trdi qua bao do phong suang, mua ndng ciia dat trdi, hai chii "Bfch Ddng" dd vdn cdn tren vach mii. Nd la mdt "vach gam" ddc dao nhu vien nggc quy vdi nhilu mau lap lanh trai sud't thdi gian.
Trong sdch " \ 'let su thong giam cuang muc " ciia Qudc sir qudn Irieu Nguyen, cd ghi: "Thdng 10 (ndm 1774) ... Trinh Sdm thdy Ngi'i Phiic dem dgo qudn tra troi nigl minh di vdo qua sdu, e xdy ra sit bdt trac, ben quyet kethdn di ludn hdnh noi bien gidi de Idm thanh the vien trg cho Ngu Phiic ... bd dung ... Nguyen Nghiem vd Le Dinh Chdu Idm td tudng quan va hint tudng quan. cdn Trinh Sdm tu thdng sud't dgi hinh d giua de tiep ung. Thdng 11. Sam liin quan den Nghe An. ddng d Hd Trung " ("Kham dinh Viet sic ihdng giam cuang muc " - Tap II - NXB Gido due -1998- Hd Ngi - Trang 716). Nhu the cd nghia Id Idn dd cd Nguyin Nghiem cung di vdi Trinh Sdm. Rdt cd the khi trd ve. Trinh Sdm vd Nguyin Nghidm cd ghe thdm chiia Bich Dgng. Ddng chu "Nhdt Nam nguyen chii " dd ndi rd dd Id ngudi dung ddu nudc Nam. Md ngudi dimg ddu nudc Nam khi dd td Trinh Sdm. Trinh Sdm dd cd tho chain khdc iren vdch nid Hang Ludn (Xuyen Thuy Dgng) d xd Trudng Yen. ddng thu 12 khdc ten hieu cua minh Id "Nhdt Nam nguyen chii de". Tren vdch nid Bich Dgng ci'ingchain khdc ddng chu dd. Vi vdy. cluing loi khdng dinh: Trinh Sdm Id ngudi dgt ten cho chua mdi Id "Bich Dgng". con ngudi viei chu de cligm khdc tren vdch niu mdl Id Nguyen Nghiem.
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Nhd cd Idi vang cua chiia Trinh Sam va thu phap ciia Nguyin Nghilm, canh trf chiia Bfch Ddng mdi them phdn cd kfnh, trang nghiem, trf tue va dep them rat nhilu vi trd thanh ngdi chiia cdn luu dau lich sir. Theo sach "Ninh Binh todn tinh dia chi khdo bien " ciia Nguyin Tii Mdn thi ''vdch dd cua dgng co khdc chil "Bich Scm bdt cdnh " (Tdm cdnh ciia Bich San) (nhu dd noi d tren) vd mgt bdi tha thdt ngon, ben td vdch nui khac nhitng chu "Qudn bdc tri sT Luu Huy Thudt de" (Bdc siLuu HuyThugt de tha)"' ". Nhung hien nay cd the da da mdn, reu phong che lap khdng cdn nhin tha'y nhiing ddng chir ay nua. Nhin len hdm niii ben phai tren nde chiia, chiing ta tha'y mdt nhu da gid'ng nhu con ky da to, cdn khi quay lung lai, dumg d san chiia nhin xud'ng la canh ddng Trudng Thi. Tuang truyln, day Id noi luyen quan va thi vd ciia tudng sT nha Trdn khi xua. Dilu rdt ddc dao cua chiia Trung la toa lac d lung chimg niii, kiln tnic ban mdi phfa ngoai, ndm ggn vao trong mdt ddng ldn, cira ddng nhu dm ggn lay mai chiia. Chiia Trung ndm d giira ddng, quay hudng tay hudng duong. Ben trai la dien Mdu lam theo kieu nha dgc 2 gian, mai ud'n cong, gian ngoai la Tiln dudng, gian trong la Thugng dien dung bdng cac cdt da, dat thd tugng Lilu Hanh. (1} "Ninh Binh todn tinh dia chi khdo bien" cua Nguyen Tu Mdn - NXB Chinh Iri Qudc gia - Hd Ngi - 2001 - Trang HI
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Chua Trung cQng cd kien tnic theo kieu chur "dinh " vdi hai tdng mai ciing ud'n cong, Tiln dudng 3 gian, Thugng dien 3 gian. Nin cua Thugng dien cung cao hon Tiln dudng. Diing tai chiia Trung, chiing ta it cd cam giac d trong ddng mii, vi chiia Trung dugc kien tnic nhu cac ngdi chua tren mat dat, cd cac mai Igp ngdi, tudng xay kin, khdng nhin thay vach da. Ddng d lung chtaig mii nay phai tuang dd'i cao, rdng va sau mdi cd the dm ggn mdt ngdi chua va mdt dien Mdu ben trong. Con ngudi da khdng lay ddng lam chiia ma diing ddng de che chd, bao bgc, bao ve chiia, dd Id su ke't hgp hai hoa giiia con ngudi va thien nhien de tao nen cai dep co kfnh, bin lau trudng tdn mai mai. Thdng thudng d cac ngdi chiia khac, tugng Diic Ong dugc dat ben tay trai ciia Tien dudng. Nhung d chiia Trung vd ngay cd chua Ha, tugng Diic Ong lai dat d ben phai. Cho nen vao chiia Trung phai vao cuta ben phai ciia Tiln dudng. Tugng Dure Ong la tugng cao to nhu mdt quan van, ngdi budng chan, tay de tu nhien tren diii. Trong quan niem dan gian, Diic Ong kidm nhilu chiirc quan trgng, cd 18 chiic nang ciia nha Phat, dac biet la cd nhiem vu trdng coi toan bd canh chiia, nhu dng chanh van phdng cua mdt ca quan Idn. Thdng thudng ll Dure Ong xong mdi den II d Thugng dien. Dd'i dien vdi tugng Diic Ong, gian ben trai dat tugng Diic Thanh Hiin cung ngdi trong kham, cdn ggi la At Nan, la ngudi rat sang da, chi can nghe thuye't phap 50
mdt ldn Id da thudc lau 19 quyen kinh, mdi quyen hang chuc van chii, nen cd cau "Luu nhap At Nan tdm ", cd nghTa la Phat gidng kinh nhu nudc bien, At Nan diu thudc Idng. Phfa trong Tiln dudng la 4 cdt da vudng to dat tren nhiirng tang da vudng trdng rat bl the va viing chac. Gian giiia Tiln dudng, trudc Thugng dien tren cao cd tam dai tu bdng chit Han: "San Linh Phdt Hgi", cd nghTa la: mii thieng cac Phat vl day hdi tu. Thugng dien ciia chiia Trung gdm 3 gian, bdy cac hang tugng Phat. Tir gian ben phai trong Tiln dudng, qua cira hau vao trong hang thay mdt tam bia Idn cham khdc chu Han hai mat cd ten la "Bich San thien tubi" (Bia ghi lich sir chiia Bfch Ddng). Budc len 21 bac da, len cao khoang 6 met la den Ddng Td'i, trudc day ggi la Hang Chua, vi cd thd Phat d trong hang. Day la ddng chinh, tham nghiem, iTnh mich, dai, hai chech vl phfa Ddng. Neu ddng chiia chiia Trung la tang mdt cua ngdi nha cao 6 met, thi Ddng Tdi la tang 2, cao de'n 8 met. Dudng len Ddng Td'i gdn nhu thdng diing, di dudi cdu Giai Oan, cita ddng cd hinh nhu cau vdng. Ben tren cira ddng cd treo mdt chiec chudng ddng Idn, la chiec chudng hai vi su Trf Kien va Tri The diic vao nam Dinh Hgi (1707), nien hieu VTnh Thinh thii ba, trilu vua Le Du Tdng.
Ddng Td'i la mdt khdng gian dai, rdng, da cd dien thdp sang. Nhin len cac vach ddng la nhiing biic tranh hoanh trang dd so, ky dieu hien ra trong anh sang huyin do, trong dd cham ndi nhiing dng tien, cd tien, tieu ddng,... bdng da dugc chau chudt ti mi va vd cimg tinh te den tirng chi tiet nhd. Cdn rdng lugn, riia bai, voi chdu, hd phuc, chim dai bang, kho tiln, kho thdc, nhu cd mdt khdng hai vl hinh hai va ve dep. Tat ca nhu mdt the gidi cd tfch bi hoa da, khien du khach phai ngd ngang trudc ve dep than tien ciia tao hoa. Day chfnh la mdt lau dai cua tao hod. Ra gan cira Ddng Tdi, ben phai ta se thay cd dat 3 tugng da uy nghi simg siing. Tugng d giu'a cao 1,65 met, rdng 1 met la tugng Diic Phat Di Da. Ben phai la tugng Van Thii Bd Tat. Ben trai la Quan Am Thi Kinh. Ra de'n gdn cira ddng, ben trai la mdt hang nhd, tren cao thd Quan The Am Bd Tat. Dudi nin hang nhd nay, cd nhu da gid'ng hinh con rtia Idn va dac biet cd hai khdi da ky la, gd vdo keu nhu tie'ng md, mdt hdn nghe tieng tram, mdt hdn nghe tieng thanh. Nhu the, Ddng Td'i cung la chua thd Phat, va dd la ngdi chua thien tao. Trudc khi len chiia Thugng, neu ta quay Iai nhin cira dgng se thay cira cud'n nhd, chi cao hon 2 met trdng rat dep. Len chiia Thugng, phai budc tdi gan 40 bac da theo sudn mii, ta se gap canh "Niii dd, vin edy tdi dinh chua " nhu cau tho cua Nguyin Nghilm viet d the ky XVIII va chiing ta se gap mdt ngdi chiia nhd d tren mdt sudn mii, cao han so vdi san gach dudi dat khoang 60 met. Chiia Thugng cdn dugc ggi Id chiia Ddng vi quay ra 52
hudng ddng nam. Hai hdi bdc nam ciia chiia diu xay bdng da thudc, phfa tay chua dp sat vao vach niii, lay mii lam tudng, cdt, vi keo ciia chiia lam bdng gd lim, mai cong, cd dau dao cong viit len nhu hinh dudi chim phugng; chiia cd 2 gian theo kieu nha dgc, gian ngoai la Tiln dudng cd mdt ban thd bdng da phien to, gian trong dat thd mdt tugng duy nhat la Phat Ba Quan Am. Day la ngdi chiia ndm d vi trf cao nha't, gan dinh mii Bfch Ddng nhat.
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Hai ben chiia cdn cd hai mieu thd. Mieu quay hudng Bdc thd Son Than. Mieu quay hudng Nam thd Thd Dia. San chiia Thugng cung dugc xay bao Ian. Dung d day vao mua he gid thdi mat lanh, neu nhin xa vl phia ddng, tha'y cd 5 nggn mii diing ddc lap chdu vl mii Bfch Ddng, trdng gidng nhu 5 canh hoa sen, ggi la Ngii Nhac San rat cd y nghTa nai canh Phat, gdm: niii Tdm Sang (vi cd nhilu cay sang), nui Gia Dinh, mii Con Lgn, mii Dau Cau va mii Hang Diia. Nhin xud'ng canh ddng Ngii Mdn lai tha'y mdt qua mii nhd da xep tirng Idp, ggi la nui Chdng Sach. Sau niii Chdng Sach la mdt qua mii Idn cd hinh dang con voi chau, ggi la mii Voi. Mdt du khdch ngudi Phap da thay mii Sach d cd dd Hoa Lu thudc xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu, den day van canh, lai thay Sdch niia da phai thdt len: "Ddu cimg ddy "nui Sdch ". Mgt ddn tgc hieu hgc. Viet Nam coi ti'gng tri thicc. Viet Nam - mot kho tdng vdn hod ". 53
Thdi xua, quanh chua Thugng d mii Bfch Ddng cd mdt loai hoa quy hiem. Dd la Son Kim Ciic, canh hoa nhd xiu, mau vdng. Lay hoa dem pha vdi tra udng, mdt se sang len. Chi mii Bich Ddng va mii Due Thuy d thi xa Ninh Binh mdi cd Son Kim Ciic. Ngay nay loai thud'c quy nay khdng cdn niia. Tuang truyln, Mdu hau ddi Tu Dire (1848 - 1883) la Thai hau Tir Du (1810 - 1902) thg 92 tudi, Id vg vua Thieu Tri, cd ten that la Pham Thi Hdng (con cua Thugng thu bd Ll Pham Dang Hung), bi benh mdt, nudc mdt cii tu tudn chdy. Khdng danh y nao chiia khdi benh. Sau, cd mdt thay lang gia truyln xin vao gap vua Tu Diic ndi Id se chita dugc benh dd. Nha vua ddng y cho thdy lang chira mdt cho Mdu hau. Thay lang Ian Idi vl mii Bfch Ddng hdi hoa San Kim Ciic dem vl sde eho Mdu hau udng, Mdu hau lien khdi benh va mdt sang trd Iai. Tra Son Kim Ciic mud'n udng ngon phai pha dugc bdng nudc lay tir cac nhu da trong Ddng Td'i d niii Bfch Ddng nhd xud'ng. Ngudi xua da ed tha vinh Bich Ddng nhu sau: Phien am: Tii bien son nhiln thuy hdi hoan Son thuy nhu dd canh tu nhien ' ' Xuyen thach nham thuy, thanh ludng cdc Nhap van lam ha xuat triing tuyln Dich nghTa: Non nudc quanh co bdn mat vdy, Thien nhien biic hog dieu ky thay. 54
Hai hang xuyen dii troi thdnh nhu,
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Triing sudi trong riing chdy ldn mdy. Mdt bai tha Ndm khac: Nui bdn xung quanh nudc bdn mUa, Thuyen nan nhe nhe mdi cheo dua.
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X3n xao song vS xung quanh dgng, MU mit mdy chdng khap cdnh chua. Chiia Bfch Ddng hien nay do cac su nii tru tri. Trudc day cd hai Hod thugng tru tri d chiia la Trf Kien, Trf The, sau dd la Tri Tam, tie'p niia cd cac Hod thugng khde nhu: Ta Hiiu Vi, Nguyin Giap LTnh, Ty Sinh Xuyen,... Cac vi su da tu hanh ddc dao va tich d day diu dugc xay thap. Cd the ndi khdng mdt trai mii nao nhu niii Bich Ddng vi cd 3 hang hinh chit "tam " (Han tu), Iai cd 3 ngdi chiia hinh chii "tam" (Han tu), tam cap theo sudn mii, chiia Trung ndm ggn trong mdt ddng Idn, chiia Thugng cao gan dinh niii, mudn len chua Thugng phai qua Ddng Td'i, la mdt chua thd Phat. Chiia Bfch Ddng Id mdt net van hod mang tfnh dan tdc cao, chiem mdt vi trf kha dac biet vd quan trgng trong di san van hod Hoa Lu, gdn hin vdi nilm tu hdo vl 55
lang xdm, que huang xa Ninh Hai. Dd cung la mdt tac pham nghe thuat cd kinh, trang nghiem cua su hoa hgp giiia con ngudi vdi khung canh thien nhien tuoi xanh, tTnh lang, gdp them cho biic tranh toan canh ciia mdt vung non nudc Tam Cdc - Bfch Ddng dugc hoan my.
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CHUA NHAT TRU Chiia Nha't Tru toa lac d thdn Yen Thanh, xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu, ndm trong khudn vien kinh thanh Hoa Lu xua chi each din Le Dai Hanh vl phia Bdc gdn 100 met. Chiia dugc xay dung tir thdi Tiln Le, qua nhilu Ian triing tu den nay vdn cdn kha nguyen ven. Lan trimg tu gdn day nha't vao nam 1992. Ten chiia lay ten cdt Kinh de dat. "Cot" tiic la tru. Trong chiia chi cd mdt cdt Kinh Dd nen ggi la Nhat Tru. Hien nay, chua quay hudng Tay, kien true theo kieu chii "dinh", phan ngang la Tiln dudng nam gian, phan dgc - ''chudi vo" bd'n gian la noi tham nghiem de thd Phat. Chiia dugc xay dung bdng nhung cdt gd lim. Vi, keo, xa ngang, xa dgc cung bdng gd lim. Mai chiia khdng udn cong nhu cac ngdi chua khac, ma chi Igp bdng ngdi ta khdng cd mau, miii lugn trdn, phia dudi la ngdi chieu. He thd'ng bd mai ciia chua chie'm hai phan ba cdng trinh. Dd cung la dac trung kien tnic ciia chiia Viet Nam. Den chiia, di vao cdng phia nam, ta se thay ben tren cd ba chii Han ddp noi: "Nhd't Tru Tu" (Chua Nhat Tru). Khu vuc chiia rdng gan tam sao, dugc xay tudng bao xung quanh. Vudn chiia trdng nhilu cay an qua, cay dai thu, cay canh, cay hoa xanh tuoi, lam cho canh chua nhu mdt ehdn tinh vien (vudn tTnh mich). 57
Ngoai chiia chinh, trong khu viic chiia cdn cd nha thd Dia Tang (Bd Tat) va thd Mdu, nha thd To dl thd nhung vi tang ni ddi trudc. Tru Tri la nai nha sU d, Phuang Trugng Id nha tiep khach va mdt sd thap - nai ehdn cat cac nha su da tru tri va mat tai day. Den tham ehiia, du khach budc vao Tien dudng (nha phfa trudc) d cira ben trai. Tai day cd be thd dat tugng Diic Ong mat dd. Dd'i dien ben tay phai Tiln dudng la be thd dat tugng Diic Thanh Hiin (Diic A Nam). Trong Tiln dudng cdn treo mdt qua chudng Idn. Ll Diic Ong xong, mdi den II d ban thd chfnh giiia, ndm d Thugng dien - "chudi vo". Day la chd thd Phat cd bd'n hang tir cao xud'ng thap, dat cac tugng Phat dugc son son thep vang long Idy va cac thii do thd, nhu dinh huong, cay den... Dilu dac biet, ddc dao ciia chiia Nhdt Tru la cd mdt cdt Kinh da dung d phia trudc chiia, hai lui vl hudng bdc. Day Id cdt Kinh Da do vua Le Dai Hanh (980 1005) cho lam d nien hieu IJhg Thien thii 2, nam 995 de dang nha Phat, vi nha vua rat tin vao dao Phat, tin vao sir linh ling ciia Kinh Phat. Cdt Kinh Da cd chilu cao tinh tir tang de'n chdp la 4,16 met, gdm sau bd phan da dugc ga Idp thanh. Bd phan thii nhat la mdt tang da hinh vudng, mdi chilu 1,4 met, day 0,3 met. Dilu dac biet d tang da nay la dugc cham khdc mdt vdng canh sen, gdm 22 canh don bao quanh de cdt vdi dudng kfnh vdng sen, rdng 1,07 met. 58
Canh sen thon. Cd Ie, day Id loai hoa van canh sen xuat hien sdm nhat d Viet Nam trong nghe thuat cham khdc da. Hoa sen theo quan niem cua dao Phat la bieu tugng ciia cdi niet ban, bieu hien cho tri tue, cung la bieu tuang ciia am. Vi the tang da mdi dugc cham khdc cdnh sen. Ld mdng ciia tang da d giira, cd dudng kinh 29cm, sau 5,5cm. Bd phan thii hai la de trdn, tren to, dudi nhd, dudng kfnh tren 76cm, dudng kfnh dudi 66cm, cao 3,32cm. Ben dudi deed ngdng trdn de vao Id mdng cua tang da. Ben tren cung cd Id mdng. Bd phan thii ba la than cdt, hinh bat giac (8 canh), tren to, dudi nhd bdng da xanh nguyen khdi cao gdn 2,4 met, sd do qua tam hai mat dd'i dien nhau, phia tren la 65cm, phfa dudi 61 - 62cm. Hai ddu than cdt diu cd ngdng de cdm vao de va thdt bat giac, ngdng dudi cd dudng kinh 16cm, dai 5cm, ngdng tren ed dudng kinh 18cm, dai 6cm. Day la bd phan chinh cua cdt Kinh. Tam mat diu dugc mai nhan Ii, cham khdc khoang 2.500 chu Han. Hien nay, do nudc chdy da mdn, thdi gian lam md nhilu chir d phdn tren va dudi, chi cd the dgc dugc khoang 1.200 chii. Ndi dung ban khdc tren than cdt la kinh Da La Ni, Thii Lang Nghiem va bai thdn chu ca nggi su bin vung ciia due hanh Phat, su to ldn, bao triim ciia trf tue, tai nang Phat Nhu Lai. Bd phan thit tu la thdt bat giac cd sd do qua tam hai mat ddi dien Id 69cm, cao khoang gdn 13cm, mat tren phdng, mat dudi cd Id mdng de tren than cdt. 59
Bd phan thii nam Id dau tam canh, cao 26 cm, ben tren da'u cd Id mdng trdn de Idp chdp. Bd phan thii sau la chdp cd hinh mdt chiec hd Id thdp bung, CO dai, mieng tu, cao khoang 80 cm. Hien nay chdp cii da mat, dugc Idm thay bdng chdp khac'". Sau bd phan cua cdt Kinh diu lam bdng da, dugc ga Idp vao nhau bdng cdc Id mdng va ngdng trdn, khdng he cd chat ket dfnh nao. Dilu nay khdng dinh su tfnh toan ti mi, rat khoa hgc ciia cac nghe nhan, ddng thdi cung chiing minh dugc loai hinh thu phap da da cd sdm d nudc ta. Phai chang, nghe thuat cham khdc da, thu phap trdn da ciia nhan dan Hoa Lu da cd tir lau ddi, each ngay nay tren 1000 nam. Day la su hod than ciia thien nhien vao cudc sd'ng trong mdi trudng sinh hoat van hoa cua con ngudi, trudc hit da xuat hien noi cira Phat. Trai qua han mudi the ky, gid bao, lut Idi khdng hi lam cho cdt Kinh Iiin, nghieng va dd. Dd cung la dilu ky dieu cua da, cua con ngudi, cua cdt Kinh Phat. Nhung ngudi thg da Hoa Lu xua la nhiing nghe nhan tai hoa, cd Idng say me, thdng minh, sang tao, cd ddi ban tay vang, than trgng va kheo leo da dap iing dugc khat vgng mong mud'n cua vua Le Dai Hanh va con ngudi, khien du khach ngay nay phai than phuc, chiem ngudng. Chinh vi the, hai cdt vudng ngoai hien Tien dudng cua chiia Nha't Tru cd cau dd'i chu Han ddp ndi: (I)Theo tulieu ciia Ddng Cong Nga trong "Vdn hod Ninh Binh " sd3 ndm 1996. 60
"Uc nien Phat thu kim lien dien. Van CO Thdn linh thach tru tieu". Tam dich: "Hdng vgn ndm bdn tay Phdt xdy dung tod sen vdng (chua) Tit xa xua Thdn linh thieng chon cam cot bdng dd (cot Kinh dd) ". Den nam 1009 Ly Cdng Udn len ngdi vua, lap ra nha Ly, lay hieu la Ly Thai To. Nam 1010, Ly Thai To quyet dinh ddi dd tir Hoa Lu de'n thdnh Dai La (Thang Long). Sir chip rdng vua Ly Thai Tdng (1028 - 1054) ddi Vua Ly thii 2, ndm mdng thay Phat Quan Am ngdi tren toa sen mdi budc len. Vua cho la diem gd, ben cho xay mdt ngdi chua theo hinh hoa sen de thd Phat va cdu xin ban them tuoi thg. Nam 1049, chiia dugc xay dung ndm giiia hd Linh Chieu (khu vuc Ba Dinh - Ha Ndi ngay nay). Bd phan chfnh ciia ngdi chua, hay ndi mdt each khac, co sd cua chiia la mdt cdt da hinh trdn, cd dudng kfnh 1,25 met, tii dudi day hd nhd len mat nudc. Tren ddu tru da trdn la mdt ngdi nha nhd bdng gd vudng viic mdi chilu 3 met. Bd'n chiec sdc nach bdng gd tir giira than tru da dam ra nhu nhirng canh cay dd lay ngdi chiia. Cd le, de tudng niem ghi nhd Cd dd Hoa Lu trong tam thiic, vua Ly Thai Tdng ggi ten chiia la Mdt Cdt. Sach "Dgi Nam nhdt thdng chi" cd ghi: "Do cU nhd Dinh, nhd Le... lgi co cdc danh hieu: Cdu Dong, Cdu Den,... chita Thdp, chua Nhdt Tru,... nen cU vdn cdn. 61
Khi Ly Thdi Td ddi do den Thdng Long deu dung theo cdc danh hieu dy". Ten ggi cua hai ngdi chiia gid'ng nhau, nhung kien tnic va y tudng Iai khdc nhau. Dilu quan trgng la ten ggi "Nhdt Tru " vdn cdn luu Iai tren dat Thang Long Mdt su tiep nd'i, ghi nhd mdt "Kinh dd dd " oanh liet, hiing trdng mdt thdi vdng son rue rd. Chiia Nha't Tru tren ddt Hoa Lu nhd ggn va xinh xdn - thang ngay vdn ngan vang tieng chudng chiia. Du khach vao day nhu den cdi menh mdng cua trdi dat, bdi vi cd cdt Kinh Da, ngoai chiic nang ghi cac Kinh nha Phat, cdn la vat hnh thieng chuyen tai sinh lire vii tru. Vang, sdt d chiia khdng thieng. Dat nung va da mdi dugc coi la linh thieng. VI the ngudi ta thudng tac cac tugng Phat va bat huong ciing cac dd thd bdng da hoac dat nung. Bdi the eho nen ngoai ve dep tao hinh, cdt Kinh Da cdn chiia dung mdt ve dep tam Unh, thanh thien, tao nen mdt khung canh cua thanh nha, rdng Idn, sau sdc va hnh thieng cho ngdi chiia mang ten Nhat Tru ciia viing kinh dd xua. •^f,"! C
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Chiia Am Tien d xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu ndm trong ddng mii Am Tien. Khi khach den ben dd sdng Sao Khe xudi thuyln hudng nam (Dudng thuy di tham Xuyen Thuy Ddng) khoang 500 met rdi len bd, hoac di bd theo con dudng rai da rdng, song song vdi sdng Sao Khe khoang 500 met, thay cd mdt cay da d chan mii phfa ben trai each dudng vai chuc met, thi re trai, di vao con dudng nhd gan 100 met nira, den cai quen thdp mang ten Am Tien cd chilu cao so vdi mat rudng 15 met, chfnh la Id'i di vao chiia Am Tien. Quen nay dai 20 met, hai ddu Id hai vach mii, cao nhu cai cdng khong Id ciia tao hod. Dudng len quen qua 55 bac da. Len den dinh dd'c, phfa ben phai cd am dl ba chiir Han d tren: "Nhgc Thdn Gidng'' (Nai thd than mii). Hai ben am cd ddi cau dd'i: "Nhi son ngudng chi canh hanh hanh chi. Hiru Tien tdc danh hiiu long tdc linh" ijjjjp, (ij. Tam dich: "Len nili ngUa mat nhin cdnh dep di di lgi lgi. Co Tien chdc co tieng, co rdng seed Unh thieng " 21 Trudc khi vao chua, du khdch hay thdp huong kha'n than mii phii hd cho chuyen di tham chua td't dep, may mdn. Diing tren dinh quen, nhin vl phfa ddng, thay mdt thung lung rdng khoang 10 mdu, xung quanh la mii cao bao bgc. Cd cai quen nay mdi cd Id'i vao chua. 63
Theo dudng dd'c, qua 55 bac da niia mdi den thung, d giira cd mdt con dudng nhd rai da, hai ben la hai canh ddng liia xanh mudt. Di tren con dudng nhd nay, nhin hai ben va trudc mat chi thay nui cao chdt vdt. Vach mii ben phdi mgc day loai tnic dudi cdng chiu dugc khd han, thudng sd'ng d vach da xoe diu xud'ng nhu nhung dudi cdng xanh biec. O cac vach mii ben nay, cay cdi ciing chen chiic um tiim, dua nhau chen mgc. Di hit quang dudng rdi da gan 500 met, ta se den chan mii Am Tien'". Ben phdi, dudi chan nui cd ba thap xay ba tdng (thap d giiira cao to han) la nai ehdn cat cac nha su da tru tri d chua va mat tai chua. Tdi gdc cay sung to mdi la ldi len chiia Am Tien. Dudng len ehua qua 210 bac da xep ngodn ngoeo theo sudn niii. Hai ben Id'i di cd nhu'ng cay da, cay sung, cay chd, cay dai thu cao to che rgp mdt mau xanh khien ta cam thay mat me sud't han 200 bac da len chiia. Sudn mii trudc cira chiia cay cdi mgc nhu riing, cac loai chim thi nhau ca hdt. Chiia Am Tien quay vl hudng tay d ngay Iimg chiing niii Am Tien, ngudi xua da lay ddng lam chiia nen cd do cao so vdi chan mii khoang 70 met, gdm hai ldp: Ldp ngoai chay dai, ggi la cira ddng, ldp trong an sau vao rudt mii, hep hon nhu kieu "chudi vd", ggi la ddng chfnh. Cira ddng dai de'n 35m, cao han chuc met. (1) Ong Dinh Gia Thuyet ggi nui cd ddng Am Tien td nui "Hang Rdng".
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Mdt day tudng hoa xay bdng gach ehdn ngoai, cdn nin cira ddng bdng phdng va dugc lat da. Hai ben cira ddng (ldp ngoai) ndi len hai ddng da't md'i dim mau vang, dugc ggi la "edy tien ", "cay thdc ". Sat vach da ben trai cira ddng dung hai tam bia da (mdt ta'm cao 1,6 mit, mdt tam cao 1,3 met, rdng 0,8 met), dugc cham khdc chii Han d ca hai mat. Day la hai tam bia d thdi Nguyin (Ddng Khanh nam thii 2 (1887) va Bao Dai nam thii 7 (1932)). Ndi dung hai tam bia diu ndi vl viec tu sira chiia va ghi lai lich chua Am Tien, trong dd cd doan: "Chua xua khdng nhd ten, chi truyen lgi tdm bia cd cd chu "Thdi Su Nham ". Sd dT ggi Id Thdi Su, hdn ddy Id bdc thdy ciia cdc bdc thdy chdng. Chiing tdi cimg bdn bgc vdi nhau de ddt ten chiia Id Am Tien, chdc Id phii hap han cd"'". Nhu the ten ggi chiia Am Tien mdi cd tir thdi Nguyin. ' ' - ' - ' :...Mn^. ^ Lui vao trong, ciing d vach da ben trai ddng, tren cao cd mdt tam bia khdc vao vach da dai 1,55 met, rdng 0,82 met. Sd chii trong bia la 328, vdi 5 ddng ddu chii to, 9 ddng sau chir nhd. Nhilu chir Han md. khdng dgc dugc. Chfnh giiia tran bia cd tac bdng hoa sdu canh, dai, nd be ra cac hudng ciing vdi 4 la trai dai vl hai ben va hoa la phil kin tran bia. ^ ' " = -1 •• -• •> • (I > Theo Hodng Gidp dVien nghien cini Hdn Nom. 65
Bia cd nien dai 1179, dudi ddi vua Ly Cao Tdng (1176 - 1210). O vach da ben cira ddng cd ddng chir: "Dgi Chu ma san dng. Dgi quang Thdnh ". Cd nghTa la: Bia ndi vl Dai quang Thanh viing mii Dai Chu Ma. Todn bd ndi dung bia ndi vl mdt vi Dai su nudc Dai Cd Viet ta tu hanh d viing mii Chu Ma, cd hg Chu (?), hg Nguyin'" (dang tiec Id bia bi mdn khdng rd chii, nen khdng dgc dugc). "Hg Nguyin " d day cd the la Thien su Nguyin Minh Khdng da de'n tu d vung mii Chu Ma. Sd dT nam khdc bia cdn biet dugc Id nam 1180, vi tren bia cd chir: 'Trinh Phu, Bdo lfng (thii 5)". Ddi chieu trong nien lich, thi 'Trinh Phit" la nien hieu dau tien ciia vua Ly Cao Tdng, cdn nam thii 5, chinh la nam 1180. Cdn chu "Bdo ung" khdng cd, chi cd "Tri Binh Long img " la nien hieu cudi ciing ciia 'vua Ly Cao Tdng tir nam 1205 den 1210. Cd the ngudi khdc bia nham "Long ung " thanh "Bdo lfng ". Nhu the mdt dilu chdc ehdn, day la tam bia co da dugc khdc d thdi Ly ghi ba chii' "Thdi Su Nham ". Vach da ben phdi ciia ddng cd treo mdt qua chudng nhd. Tir tudng hoa di vao 12 met, budc len ba bac da, cao chimg 0,4 met la de'n Idp trong (cira ddng hep hon, cao 3 mil, rdng gdn 10 met). Id ddng chfnh hay "chudi (1) Theo tu lieu ciia Bdo tdng Hd Nam Ninh. 66
vd ". Dd chinh la Hau cung ciia chiia. Nin ddng ciing dugc lat da vd gach rat bdng phdng nhu nin nha. Day Id mdt ddng dep, cao, rdng, trdng nhu mdt cai dii hoac mdt cai bat da khdng Id lip xud'ng. Chd cao nhat d giiia la 15 met. Dudng kfnh nen ddng rdng tdi 35 met. Giua nde ddng cd nhilu nhii da ru xud'ng vdi cac dang hinh, nhu: qua phat thii, qua bf, bdp ngd, con hd, con su tir... Thien nhien tai hoa, can mdn ngan nam mdi cham khdc dugc nhirng dang hinh nhu the. Dac biet, vdch ddng d phfa ddng vat phdng nhu mai nha va chi cd tao hod mdi xe dugc nhiing tam da phdng Iy ky dieu ay. Trong ddng cd nhilu nhu da, nudc nhd diu dan, quanh nam, khien ngudi ta phdi xay cac be trdn hiing nudc cho nin ddng ludn khd rao, giir cho cai cam giac diing trong ddng ludn tha'y mat lanh. Gdn cudi ddng, trudc kia ngudi ta xay cac be dat tugng thd Phat. Cach day han 100 nam, ngudi ta mdi dung them mdt ngdi lau, ben trong cung xay cdc be thd cao thdp vd dat nhilu tugng Phat son son thep vang nhu cac ngdi chua khac. Trudc ldu cd ba chiir Han Idn: "Am Tien Dgng" (Ddng Am Tien). Hai cdt phfa ngoai ldu cung cd ddi cau ddi: "Cdnh sdc tu nhien vu tru biet thanh thien cd ddng. Giam lam tai thugng tir bi phd tTnh van sinh linh". Tam dich: "Cdnh dep tu nhien ddy do trdi ddt tgo ra thdnh dgng dd ldu ddi. 67
Giam cdm (hdbdo) a chd ndy, nay thd Phdt chimg gidm linh thieng cho mudn ngUdi". (Tuang truyln, xua kia vua Dinh cho nudi ho bao d trong ddng, hi cd ke nao pham tdi nang thi dua vao day cho hd bao an thit). Ben phai ldu thd Phat Id mdt ldu nhd, tren cd dl ba chir Han: "Chdn TeSd" (Noi thd Chan te), dat tugng Diic Ong, cd nhiem vu trdng coi loan bd canh chiia. Hai ben lau cd hai cau dd'i: ;'• • " ' t f * ( i
"Thu trung hiiu kim nggc.'" Biit thugng tu tieu ham". Tam dich: . ;jr . , . 'Trong sdch cd vdng nggc. Nggn biit ldm phdm hdm ". Ben trdi ldu thd Phat la mdt mieu nhd dat tugng thd Nguyin Minh Khdng, d tren dl ba chii Han: "Hien Thdnh Tic" (Mieu thd Hien Thanh). Hai ben mieu ciing cd ddi cau dd'i: "Diim Giang sinh hien Thanh. Hoa Ddng tie'p Than cao" '''• Tam dich: "Diem Giang sinh ra vi hien Thdnh Hoa Ddng tgo nen Thdn tdi cao "
(1) Vi ddi ndy ciia ong Td Ao, ngudi Idng Td Ao. huyen Nghi Xndn dnh Hd TTnh. Id mgt nhd dia li (phong thuy) ciia nudc ta thai xUa.
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Trong ddng cd cac pho tugng Phat, Thanh uy nghiem, nhan tir do con ngudi tao dung hod nhap vdi cac hinh hdi nhu da ky dieu ciia tao hod. Phfa sau ldu thd Phat, cudi ddng cdn cd mdt cai hang sau tham thdm xudng dat, td'i om, cira hang chi bang mieng thiing, ngudi xua ggi la "Hgng Rdng". Cd le, vi the niii nay dugc ggi la mii "Hang Rdng". "Hgng Rdng" dugc coi la "ldi xudng dm phii". Chua cd ai dam di xudng hang sau bi an nay. Thdi nha Dinh, nhirng ke pham tdi diu bi xir theo y ciia nha vua. Sdch "Dgi Viet si( lugc " (khuylt danh thdi Tran) cd ghi: "Nhd vua ddt vgc ddu ldn a nai sdn, nudi cgp trong ciii vd hg lenh rdng: - Cd ai phgm phdp se bi ndu, hogc cho cgp xe thdy"^^\ Vi vay, tuong truyln, nha Dinh da diing ddng nay lam mdt nguc da, cho nudi hd, bao d trong ddng. Hi cd ke nao pham tdi nang thi bdt nhd't vao day cho manh thii an thit. Sang thdi Ly, ddng vdn cdn la mdt nguc tii nhu thdi Dinh. Mdt thdi gian sau ddng khdng dimg lam nguc til nira, nhung nhumg oan hdn tir khf vdn cdn trong ddng. Ngudi dan dia phuang di qua day thudng nghe thay tieng ma keu quy khdc, hd thet, beo gdm. Ai cung khiep via kinh hdn, khdng hi dam ben bang den gdn ddng.
H) "Dgi Viei sir lugc" - NXB Thanh phdHd Chi Minh -1993 • Trang 91.
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Cung thdi ky nay, dng Nguyin Minh Khdng la bac cao tang, phap thuat cao cudng mdt hdm vao tham trong ddng, thay vay ben tung kinh thuye't phap, lam cho ma quy, hilm beo diu phai mdt tich. The rdi, dng xay be thd Phat d trong ddng, cii tuan ram, mdng mdt, lai cho dd de vao tung kinh de nhiing vong hdn dugc sieu thoat. Dan dan ngudi dan d day ciing vdo II bai, khdng cdn sg hai gi nira. Tir dd, ngudi ta xay dung them cac be thd Phat. Canh tri trong ddng da dep, nay Iai dugc thd Phat, nen du khach den van canh nhilu. Ddng trd thdnh chd'n Am Tien, bdi the mdi ed ten la chiia Am Tien. De tudng nhd cdng lao ciia Thiln su Nguyin Minh Khdng, vl sau ngudi ta da xay them mieu thd Nguyin Minh Khdng d ngay trong ddng. Nhu vay chua Am Tien thd ca Phat? ca Tien. Tien d day la Thiln su Nguyin Minh Khdng. Phat dugc thd do Nguyin Minh Khdng lap chfla tii thdi Ly.
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CHUAAM Khi xay dung kinh dd d Hoa Lu (xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu), vua Dinh Tien Hoang da dua vao nhilu trai niii de lam thanh, diing mdt sd hang ddng de lam kho. Vua Dinh Tien Hoang da biet khai thac triet de i ., thien nhien nhdm phuc vu cho con ngudi. Vi the, ngudi dan thdi dd cung dua vao mdt sd hang ddng dep de lam chiia. Dd la chiia Dia, chiia Am. Chiia Am dugc hinh thanh tir thdi nha Dinh thudc son phan xdm Thong Bai, nay la thdn Yen Trung, xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu. Day la mdt "ngdi chua" thien tao, dimg hang ddng de lam chiia. "Chua" quay hudng lay bdc ndm trong nui Chiia Am'" d phfa bdc Thanh Ngoai cua kinh dd Hoa Lu. Trong "chua" dugc dat nhilu tugng Phat, tdn tai cho den thdi ky chd'ng My. Tir nam 1965 den nam 1975, cac tugng Phat dugc chuyen ddi den chiia Ba Ngd va chiia Dia. Hang Thien Am Tu trd thanh "ngdi nhd " de cac can bd chii chdt ciia tinh Ninh Binh d va lam viec. Cac ddng chf lanh dao cua Trung uang Dang va Nha nudc ta khi dd vl lam viec vdi tinh Ninh Binh cung d trong hang nay. Cira hang dugc xay Iai, cd canh cira de bao ve "ngdi nhd". Khi vao eudi hang phfa tay phai cd mdt cira hang niia, men theo hang nay khoang 400 met la cd the di thdng xudng "' Phia bdc nid Dia ggi Id nid Chiia Am thugc thon Yen Trung. Phia nam niii Dia ggi Id nid Dia thudc thdn Yen Thugng, xdTriCdng Yen. Nui gdn chg, nen cdn ggi Id niu Chg. 71
phia Nam, ra cira d phia den Dinh. Ngay nay, cira hang nay da dugc xay kin. Sau gidi phdng miin Nam, thd'ng nhat dat nudc nam 1975, chua Am vdn dugc nhan dan trong vung den thap huang 11 Phat. Trong "chiia" chi dat cdc bat huang chii khdng cd tugng Phat. Mai den nam 2003, nhan dan xdm Thong Bdi, xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu mdi tien hanh xay dung lai chua Am. Hien nay, chiia Am da dugc xay dung lai hoan chinh nhu cac ngdi chiia khdc, cd chiia chinh, Nha To, Phu ndm tren mdt dai da't sat chan niii Chua Am cd dien tfch khoang 5 sao. ' - Phia ddng chua cd mdt khdi da sat chan mii nho len cao 11 met da dugc san phdng dinh, tren dd dat mot tugng Quan The Am Bd Tat bang da trdng, cao gdn 5 met, nang 7 tan. Cd hai Id'i len tugng Phat theo hai hudng ddng, tay, mdi ben cd 45 bac da nhu cac hat ciia trang hat vdt qua mdm mii. Tugng Phat diing tren toa sen, tay phdi bdt quye't, tay trai cam chai nudc than. Neu di men chan mii vl phia ddng - ddng bdc mdt doan, trudc day la Ao Giai. Tuang truyen, Ao Giai la noi vua Dinh nudi giai de nem nhirng ke cd tdi cho giai an thit. Nhu the'Ao Gidi ndm d phia bdc nui Dia. Lui vl phia tay nam mdt chut, di qua cdng chiia, trudc mat Id mieu thd cac quan ngay sat chan nui. Cung lui vl phfa lay nam sat chan niii la nha Td, ba gian. Thim va cdc cdt hien diu lam bdng da, kien tnic theo kieu chii "dinh" (Han tu), Tiln dudng ba gian rdng, Hau 72
cung mdt gian nhd sat vao vach mii. Cac cdt dugc Idm bdng be tdng cdt thep. VI keo, dui me lam bdng gd lim. Tren huong an da phfa trudc cham khdc ngu khiic dat tugng thd Dure To Tay cd bat huang va cay den bdng da. Lai lui vl phfa lay - tay nam khoang 10 met, mdi la chiia chfnh. Giira khodng each nha Td va chua Am tren vach niii cao cd 3 chii Han Idn "Thien Am Ddng". Phai budc len 6 bac da, cao khodng 6 met mdi den Tam quan xay sat vao cira ddng, tren ciing cd 3 chii Han Idn "Thien Am Ddng". Qua Tam quan la "chda". Day la mdt ddng khd, khdng cd cac nhii da, chi la nhirng vdm da nhdn, bl ngang khoang 8 met, chilu sau ciia hang dai 25 met, dii cd Id miia mua, cung khdng cd gigt nudc i i:nao chay trong ddng. Ngay cira ddng, ben phdi la ban thd tugng San Than, ben trai la ban thd Thd Dia. Hai ban thd nay dat sat vao vach ddng. Budc len cao mdt bac, ben phai, tren be da thd dat tugng Dire Ong. Lai budc len mdt bac nira la 3 huang an da cao 1,5 met dat liln nhau theo kieu chii "cdng" (Han tur). Day dugc coi la Hau cung dat cac tugng Phat thd nhu cac ngdi chiia khac. Phfa sau huong an da cdn mdt khoang trdng sau vao trong khoang 10 met. Nhu the cac huang an da khdng de sat vao trong vdch ddng. Hai ben cac huong an da la hai ldi di vdo ra. Ll Phat xong, tir "chiia " ra, di lui vl phia tay tay nam mdt doan, budc sau xud'ng 8 bac da, sat ngay 73
vach mil Id mdt gieng rdng hinh ban nguyet, nudc trong xanh, khdng bao gid can. sau 3 met, vi cd nudc tir trong mii chdy ra, dugc xay tudng hoa lam thanh gieng. Tiep dd la Phil hai tdng kien true theo kieu nha san, tdng 2 cd hai tdng mai ud'n cong, tdng 1 cd mdt tang mai gia cung ud'n cong, tat cd la 12 mai d bd'n phia. Tang 1 cd 16 cdt be tdng cdt thep trdn. Mud'n len tdng hai phai budc len 14 bac cdu thang. Tang 2 cd ba gian Tien dudng vd 3 gian Hau eung lien nhau. Tdt ca cac cot d hien vd ben trong diu vudng va dugc lam bdng da, cao 4 met. C) day thd Tam toa Thanh Mdu. Dilu ddc dao cua chua Am la dua vao hang ddng va mii de xay dung. Con ngudi each day tren 10 the ky da bie't van dung thien nhien de tao dung len 1 ngdi chiia nhu the.
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CHUA NGAN Ten chiia Id Ngan, vi chua ndm trong dia phan canh ddng xir Ngdn thdn Chi Phong, xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu. Chiia cdn cd mdt ten ggi nira Id Kim Ngan (chiia Vang). Tuong truyln, ten chu nay dugc dat vi chua xay dung tren nin kho vang cua vua Dinh Tien Hoang, ndm trong khu Thanh Ndi d Kinh dd Hoa Lu. Cung cd ngudi giai thfch, vi sg ke xau dao pha chiia de tim vang, nen dgc chech chir "ngdn " thanh chfi "ngdn ". Chiia tga lac tren khu dat rdng gdn 2000 met vudng, ndm vl phfa ddng ciia thdn Chi Phong, gdn giap vdi mii Quen Vdng. Tir din Dinh Tien Hoang, vdng vl phfa nam, rdi re phdi, qua Quen Vdng 600 mit la den chua Ngdn. Chiia Ngdn dugc xay dumg tir thdi Tiln Le (the ky thii' X). Cd Ie, d trilu Dinh, khu ddt ay lam kho vang, sang trilu Tiln Le khdng lam kho vang niia, nen mdi xay dung chiia tren nin kho vang cu. Ciing cd the sang ddi vua Le Dai Hanh, day vdn la kho vang bac (nam Giap Than (984) nha vua cho xay nhieu cung dien nguy nga, trang le trong Kinh dd Hoa Lu, "cdt dien ddt vdng bgc", "lap bang ngdi bgc"). Sau dd, vua Le Dai Hanh khdng de kho vang bac d dd nua mdi xay chiia tren dat ay. Chiia quay hudng tay nam, kiln tnic theo kieu chii "dinh " (Han tu), xung quanh xay tudng bao. Qua cdng Tam Quan xay theo kieu Phuang dinh vdi 4 mai dao cong viit, di vao trong theo dudng lat gach 75
dai khoang 10 met Id tdi san chua rdng 35 met vudng. Ngay sat dudng di ben tay phai la ao rdng, tao ra am duang dd'i dai, tu thuy. Tiln bai cua chiia cd 5 gian, mdi Igp ngdi ta, giua mai cd ddp hinh rdng chau la lech, hai ben ddu dd'c xay bdng da cd cham thdng phong. hinh chir "thg" (Han tu). Tiln bai ddi 15 met, rdng 5 met, gdm 6 hang cdt, mdi hang 4 cdt (2 cdt cai, 2 cdt quan). Dudng kfnh cua cdt cdi la 30cm, dudng kfnh ciia cdt quan la 25cm. Kiln true ciia vi keo theo kieu gia chieng. Todn bd he thd'ng cdt dugc ke tren chan tang bdng da, lam theo kieu thdt cd bdng, cd dudng kinh 40cm, cao 36cm. Cac xa nach va ddu bay Tiln bai dugc cham hoa van Id lat, trien chi. Gian ben td Tiln bai dat cd ngai, thd bai vi ciia 12 ddng hg tai thdn Chi Phong. Day la cac ddng hg vao ddi vua Le Kfnh Tdng (1600 - 1619) da cd cdng ddng gdp, tien ciing tu sira, triing tu chiia. Ciing d gian nay treo mdt qua chudng cao 60cm, dudng kfnh mieng 40cm, diic vao nam Thanh Thai thii nhdt (1889). Gian dT ben hiru de cd ngai thd bai vi cua Tam vi Thanh Mdu. Ldn triing tu Tiln bai gdn day nhat la vao miia thu nam Dinh Hgi (1947). Liln vdi Tiln bai la Thugng dien, nha doc,"chudi vd", ba gian, sau vao trong 7,5 met, chilu rdng 7 met, gdm 3 vi keo, kien tnic theo kieu tru chung, ke gdc, cdc ddu tru vd ke gdc cham ndi rdng, dao mac, theo phong each thdi Hau Le. Dudi cdc chan cdt cung dugc ke tren chan tang da hinh vudng, cd canh 40cm. Biirc me trudc 76
cira vdng dugc trang trf am duong hoa hgp, van xoan, hd chdu, la lech, long van. Trudc Thugng dien cd treo bu'c dai tu bdng gd son son thep vang, dl 4 chir Han: 'Thanh Hdm Nggc Chieu " (chieu sang thanh tinh). d hai cdt trudc Thugng dien la cau dd'i (nhan viia), chir quay ra ngoai: Phien am: Tri binh dia hanh vd trdn tuc Tinh thd thiin nhien hiru thai hod. Dich nghTa: Tri thdi binh ddt khdng nai trdn tuc Nai sgch se thien nhien vdn thdi hod. Ciing d hai cdt trudc Thugng dien (nhan viia), chit quay vao giiia cd cau dd'i: Phien am: Quang trung nhat nguyet thudng tinh chieu Tu tai can khdn hun tich gian. Dich nghTa: Nen mat trdi, mat trdng thudng chieu sdng to Tu tgi trong trcfi ddt cd khodng thanh tinh. Trudc ban thd d Thugng dien cdn treo mdt cau ddi bdng gd, son son, thep vang: Phien am: Cd bat sinh hoa phong ITnh thien thu sinh tu khi 77
Bd dl kit qua chi dinh van the ngudng linh thanh. Dich nghTa: Chiia Phdt sinh ra dieu tdt dinh Phong ngdn ndm sinh khi dep. Bd deket qud, ddt Chi (Phong) mudn ddi ngudng vgng tieng anh linh. Trong Thugng dien, tir tren cao xud'ng thap cd dat cac tugng Phat. Tiep giap vdi Tien bai phia ben hun (ndm vl phfa tay trai du khach). Id nha Td, gdm 5 gian, gian giua dat tugng thd. Ngoai ra, ben ta ciia san chiia cdn cd nha khach cung 5 gian, quay hudng tay la chd tiep khach va noi nghi cua cac nha su tru tri d chiia. Chua Ngdn khdng chi la mdt di tich thd Phat cd tii the ky X, ma cdn Id nai thanh lap td chu'c Dang cua dia phuang. Id dia diem ddn nhan, bao ve cac can bd va cat giau tai lieu, vii khi, dan duge ciia ta trong thdi ky khang chien chd'ng Phdp. Trong khang chien chd'ng My, chiia Ngdn ciing la nai cat giii luang thuc, ddn tiep thuang binh, nudi dudng bd ddi Quan khu III. Vi vay, chiia Ngdn da dugc Nha nudc tang thudng Huan chuang Khang chien hang Ba, Huan chuong Khang chien chd'ng My hang Ba vd mdt sd bdng khen khac. Ngay 21 thang 3 nam 2001, chiia Ngdn da dugc cdng nhan la Di tich Lich sir - Van hoa cap qud'c gia.
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CHUAHOASON Chiia Hoa San d thdn Ang Ngu, xa Ninh Hoa, huyen Hoa Lu. Chiia d lung chimg mii Chiia, thudc day mii phia ddng nam kinh thanh Hoa Lu xua. Mud'n tham chiia phai budc theo 153 bac da len do cao gdn 70 met so vdi chan mii. Ldi len ddng cd nhilu cay cd thu, tan la sum sue lam cho phong canh em diu, mat me. Trudc day cd cay da Bd, cao bdng dinh mii, than to, dudng kinh gdn 3 met, phii rgp mdt khoang sudn mii rdng. Chiia hudng ddng. Ngudi xua da lay ddng niii lam chiia. Dung trudc cira ddng, se thay todn canh thien nhien thoang dang, cd non cao, ddng thdm, sdng ngdi ky thii. Thien nhien nhu da uu dai rieng chd'n nay, de che chd, bdo ve hoang tdc nha Dinh each day hon 10 the ky. Tuang truyln, thdi nha Dinh, chiia la nai nudi Au Chiia. Cho nen chiia cd ten la Phdi Sinh Tu. Nhan dan viing nay quen ggi la chiia Bd De. Ddng cd tir lau ldm. Nhan dan d day thay ddng dep da lay ddng lam chua thd Phat. Ddng cao sau nen "chiia" cang rdng Idn. Cd le. day la mdt ngdi chiia viing chai da cd tir rat sdm d Ninh Binh. "Ngdi nhd bdo tdng" tu nhien nay chiia nhieu pho tugng va nhiing nhu da dep. Thien nhien va ngudi xua da cimg nhau tao dung mdt tac pham nghe thuiit dieu ky khiem tdn, an minh trong mdt viing non nudc ciia Cd dd Hoa Lu. 79
Trudc cira ddng. d ben phai cd hai pho tugng bang da dugc danh bdng nhdn. dd la hai tugng thd hai dng bd cd cdng tu sira chua. ten Id Nguyin Hiru Non va Le Thi Sdnh. Tugng dng Nguyin Hiiu Non ngdi theo the nha Phat, tay phdi cdm chiec quat giay md ra trudc nguc, tay trdi de tren diii. Tugng bd Le Thi Sanh cd deo trang hat, hai ban tay dl dudi trang hat. Tuang truyln, day la hai pho tugng quy hiem. Van bia khdc d vach mii phfa ben trai cho biet dng Nguyin Hiiu Non sira chiia nam At Hgi, Gia Long thiir 14 (1815). Tuang truyln, vao thdi Nguyin, 'vua Tu Diic trong chuyen tuan du ra Bdc Ha, nghe ddn d day cd chiia dep da ghe tham. Nha vua vdo chiia II Phat, thay chiia ky do nen da ddi ten chiia thanh Hoa Son tu. Tir day ggi la chua Hoa Son. Nhd 'vaia cdn lenh cho quan sd tai tap hgp Iai cac ngdi md thudc hoang tdc nha Dinh va nhumg ngudi cd cdng vdi trilu Dinh, cho xay lang NghTa Chimg d khu da't rdng chirng ba mdu. Hien nay, lang NghTa Chiing (xay bdng da) vdn cdn, ndm d phia ddng nam, each chiia Hoa Son chimg 150 met. Nha vua cung truyln cho quan sd tai cdp hai mdu rudng d phfa ddng bdc chiia, giao cho nhan dan dia phuong trdng cay hang nam, lay luong thuc de ciing te trong chiia, ggi la rudng Phu Tu. Cua chiia Hoa Son cd may vdn, suang phii linh thieng, nudc rai tf tach quanh nam tir cac nhu da. Khi binh minh anh len, vach niii cira ddng la mdt mau tim nhat, thuc mo huyin dieu bao phu. Day chfnh la cira tiln ciia ddng, chilu ngang dai 12 met, chilu cao khoang 80
20 met, cd cay da Bd, rl thd trudc cira ddng, trdng rat dep. Ben trai cira tiln cd chiec khanh da to, gd vao nghe tram bdng, am u nhu tie'ng chieng. Net ddc dao cua ddng Hoa Son Id chieu dai cua ddng dung bdng chilu ngang cua mii, ddi khoang 100 met, xuyen qua niii, cd 3 hang liln nhau, tam cap, tir tha'p len cao Id: hang Ha, hang Trung vd hang Thugng. Vao cira tien, budc len cao gdn 3 met mdi den hang Ha. Hang Ha chfnh la "mdt ngdi chiia " thien tao. d day dat nhilu tugng Phat, hai tugng Hd phap cao to diing sung sung hai ben. Tat ca cac bat huong d "chua " diu lam bang da. Cd mdt nhang an da, cham khdc ludng long trilu nguyet. Vach hang ben trai treo mdt qua chudng nhd diic tir khi lap "chua ". Mdt cau dd'i d "chiia " da mieu ta vl ddng nhu sau: Canh tii anh linh thien cd tai Hoa San tien ddng iic nien tiln (Cdnh dep thieng lieng tic thien cd Dgng Hoa San cd tic ngdn ndm trudc). Hai ben "chiia" la hai Id'i len hang Trung. Du khach budc len 10 bac da, cao gdn 6 met Id den hang Trung. Mac dii hang Ha va hang Trung liln nhau nhung cira hang Trung vdn thdt lai. Hang Trung gid'ng nhu mdt ngdi nha vdm cao rdng. cd chilu cao khoang tren 30 met. Tran hang Id nhirng khdi da hinh vdm nhdn 11 nhu danh bdng. Trdn 81
-' nhu da Ncfi nay nhU va thanh hang ben trai c« r n d t j ^ ^ ^ ^^^^ p^^^^g ^ ^ , . dam may ngu sac, nai ^^ ^^ t^ ndm. Gdn cudi Cdn day la voi '^^^"^^^.° ^^ n,6t khdi nhu da Idn rat ^"""^ ?uX^g Phat ngdi uy nghiem. Nhung gigt nudc d giong . nghin nam kien nhdn deo ggt lam nen ky cong do. Tat ca deu lung linh trong nhung dang hinh sinh ddng. Tit nin hang Trung neu dung da giao se len dugc trdn hang va budc vao mdt hang nira ndm tren dinh hang Trung. Hang nay ciing rdng va dai, diu la nhung vdm da nhdn li tao thanh va cao han hang Trung chirng 8 met nua. Hang Thugng nhd han, cita hang d phfa tay lai thap, chi cao bdng dau ngudi. Budc len cao gdn 2 met nua, mdi ra dugc cira hau hinh loe, nhd han cira tien. Nin cira hau la mdt Idp da phang, cd do cao so vdi chan nui khoang tren 100 met, khdng cd ldi xud'ng niii. Diing d day, phdng tam mdt ra xa la thay nhu'ng canh ddng Ilia xanh mudt va day mii Trudng San trimg diep nhap nhd xam nhat. Qua la cii di len cao dan, ve dep than tien lai hien them ra. n^ C^iia Hoa Son la ddng xuyen qua mii vi vay liic muaT"f/*^ ^^^^S sa, gid thdi, khien cho trong "chiia " "c nao cung mat me, miia ddng thi Iai am ap.
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CHUA BAN LONG
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Chiia Ban Long lay ddng mii lam chiia, ndm ggn trong Dai Tugng Son d thdn Khe Ddu Thugng, xa Ninh Xuan, huyen Hoa Lu. Niii Dai Tugng la hinh con voi khdng Id chdu vl Kinh dd Hoa Lu xua, cao khodng 200 met, cd mdt cira ngdm phun nudc bd sung cho lugng nudc cua sdng Sao Khe va sdng Khe Ddu. Ggi la Khe Ddu cd nghTa la dau ngudn ciia mdt con sudi. Ban Long Id ngdi chiia cd rat sdm d nudc ta, dugc hinh thanh tir trudc thdi Dinh, each day han 10 the ky. Tuong truyln, nhan dan dia phuang phdt hien ra ddng tir lau, thdy trong ddng cd rdng cudn, nen lap chiia ngay tir dd. Ta'm bia d vach mii Dai Tugng khdc vao the ky XVI, nien hieu Nguyen Hod, tiic la ddi vua Le Trang Tdng (Duy Ninh) (1533 - 1548), cd ghi: "Tif thdnh cd Hoa Lu men theo niu dd md di ve phia Nam den ldng Khe Ddu a dd cd chiia Bdn Long. Ddy Id danh thdng tic ngdn xUa. Trdi cdc trieu Dinh, Le, Ly, Trdn, chiia ndy cdng them ndi tieng". Chiia Ban Long khdng xay Tam quan, trudc khi vao chiia phdi di qua mdt cay cdu da cong cong. Nhung phien da xanh nguyen khdi Idn da dugc cham khdc ghep thanh cdu. Dd cung Id dilu ddc ddo cd d cac chua tren viing ddt Hoa Lu. Ggi la chiia Ban Long vi Chiia Trinh Sam da den tham, tay dl ba chir Idn: "Bdn Long Tu" tren vach cua ddng. "Bdn Long " la be rdng - be da rdng ngdi. Cd ten 83
"Bdn Long" vi trong ddng cd nhii da dang hinh nhu con rdng ngdi. Hinh rdng ndi rd cd vdy. Neu trdi ndng han, khi vdy rdng da trong ddng long lanh rue sdng thi vdi ngay sau trdi se dd mua. Ngudi ta nhin vdy rdng trong ddng de xem thdi tiet ndng hay mua. Vi the, vao nhiing nam han han, nhan dan dia phuang thudng lam II cdu mua d chiia Ban Long. Hai ben cira ddng cd ddi cau dd'i: , . Bdn Long dgng cd trdi Nam nhd't Dgi Tuang danh san ddt Viet thieng Vao trong ddng, phia ben trai Id tugng A Di Da bdng da xanh nguyen khdi dugc tao dung tit khi lap chiia. Day la mdt pho tugng Phat bdng da cd xua nhdt cdn lai den ngay nay. Dudi pho tugng la mdt d rdng da cudn trdn do tao hod kiln tao thanh. Cach bai trf tugng Phat trong ddng cung gid'ng nhu cac ngdi chiia khac. Nhung dilu dac biet d chiia Ban Long la xung quanh cac tugng Phat d tren cdc vach ddng la nhung nhu da ma tao hoa da cham khdc thanh bd'n con vat linh thieng la: long, Iy, quy, phugng. Tii linh da dd diu chdu vl cac tugng Phat, ddi xiing qua hai true tung va hoanh ma tam Id tugng Thfch Ca So Sinh (tugng Cim Long) thudc hang thii 5. Dilu dac biet niira la vach dd tren cao d giira ddng cdn cd mdt nhu da gid'ng hinh tugng Phat dang cudi ngua trdng. Dilu ky dieu nay chi ddng Ban Long mdi cd dugc. Neu nhu d ddng Nhi Thanh (Lang San), Ngd Thi Si phdi cho ngudi tac vao vach da hkih tugng Phat cudi 84
ngua trdng, thi d day tao hod da lam dilu dd rdt hodn hdo va vi vay cang them linh thieng, gia tri. Nhu the, mdi khdng gian ciia vach ddng la nhung nhu dd cd hinh rdng, tugng Phat va nhiing con vat linh thieng khac. Chiing ta cdn phdt hien ra nhilu nhii da nira cd dang hinh dep de dat ten nhu: dng tien, cd tien, may bay, phugng miia,... Thien nhien da kheo tac nhirng mdng dieu khdc tuyet dieu rat tinh te, ddy dn tugng, mang siic quyen ru, khien ta phdi ngd ngang. Da hien hien d day khdng cdn la nang nl, vd tri, ma dugc chuyen hod tir tTnh sang ddng, cd tieng ndi ciia tam linh va Idng thanh tir nai cira Thiln. Vi vay, ngudi xua da lam mdt bai tho chii Han, dugc dich thanh tho luc bat va khdc vao vach niii Dai Tugng nhu sau: Hodng Long ben cii ddu xa, Gdn ddy lgi cd dgng Id Bdn Long. Bdn be khdi tod mdy hdng, Hai ben td hihi nid cung giuang vdy. Khe Ddu gdi nguyet em thay, Chudng chiia len tie'ng dem ngdy ngdn nga. Mudn cho On khdp gdn xa, Vuat len dem nudc Ngdn Hd ldm mua...
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CHUA TRUNG T R 0 Thdi xa xua chiia toa lac d mii Gdi (cdn cd ten la Qui Son) thudc thdn Trung Trur. Den nam Cdnh Tri thii 2 trilu vua Le Huyin Tdng (1664) chiia d mii Gdi dugc chuyen vl ddng Anh Linh thudc nui Chua Trung Trit, xa Ninh Giang, huyen Hoa Lu. Nam Duong Diic thur 2 trilu vua Le Gia Tdng (1673) nhan dan thdn Trung Trir da xay dung lai chiia d chan niii Chiia Trung Trii nhu hien nay. Ten hieu cua chiia Id "Anh Linh San Dong Tu". Chiia quay hudng tay, ndm vl phfa tay xa Ninh Giang. Tii hudng tay di vao la Tam quan. Tam quan xay hai tang, tdng 2 treo chudng. Chudng dugc diic vao nam At Mao, Canh Thinh thii 3 trilu vua Nguyin Quang Toan (1795). Di theo dudng "nhdt chinh dgo " la den san gach. Tii san gach budc len cao 5 bac (cao gdn 1,5m) mdi den chiia. Chua xay dung theo kieu chii "Tam" (Han tur). Ddu tien la Tiln dudng 5 gian, cd 6 hang cdt (cdt cai va cdt quan), gdm 24 cdt lam bdng gd lim. Cdt cai cao to, vi, keo lam theo kieu chdng giudng, hoanh vudng, cham khdc dan gian. Mdi cua Tiln dudng thdng, chi xay hai dau dd'c, cdn phfa trudc va sau khdng cd canh cua, de thong. Trong Tien dudng d gian giiia cd hUOng an de bai vi trong ngai thd 9 ddng ho da den day lap ldng ddu tien. Tiln dudng la nai diing d l hgp hanh vd t e l l khi chap, td. 86
Qua Tiln dudng la mdt san hep, budc len 2 bac (cao 0,5m) mdi de'n Trung dudng, cdn ggi la Thieu huong. Thieu huong xua kia lam theo kieu chdng diem 8 mai, nam 1932 dd di lam lai 5 gian nhu ngay nay. Thieu huong cung cd 4 hang cdt, hai hang cdt cdi, mdi hang 4 cdt cai cao to. O cdc cdt cdn treo cau dd'i son son thep vang. Vi, keo cung lam theo kieu chdng giudng, hoanh vudng, mdi thdng. Ba gian giua cd cira vdng cham khdc long, ly, quy, phugng va cd 4 chiir Han "Anh Linh San Dgng" la ten hieu cua chua. Trong Thieu huong dat tugng Hd Phdp (Ong Thien) va tugng Diic Thanh Hiin (ben phdi), tugng Hd Phap (Ong ac) va tugng Diic Ong (ben trai). Tiep dd cd ban thd Tam Bao Ngoai d tren cao, dat nhilu tugng Phat. Di dudi gam be thd Tam Bao Ngoai se vao den Hau cung dugc xay ngay vao mii dua vao hang, cira hang lam bdng da xanh nguyen khdi, cd 3 cira, dilng cac cdt da vudng dai, xa cung bdng da gac len cac cdt da, dung them cac tang da gdn liln vdi cira hang. Cira hang d giira cao rdng, hai cira hai ben hep han, gid'ng nhu Tam quan. Dd la 3 gian Hau cung. Qua cira hang, vdo trong hang thay rdng, sau vd cao (rdng hon 5m, cao hon 3m, sau 8m). Ldng hang dugc xay thanh cac be dat cac tugng Phat tir tren cao xud'ng thap. Phfa cudi hang thd Phat (phfa tay). cdn cd ngach di vao mdt hang dai den 200m, thdng xuyen qua phfa btJn kia niii (phfa ddng), cd dudng len trdi, ldi xud'ng am
phil, vd sudi nudc trong. chiia dung nhilu nhu da dep. Theo hang nay din phfa ben kia mii (phia ddng). cira hang md rdng ra thanh mdt hang ldn dai 30m, rdng 20m, chd cao nhdt gdn 8m, cd cira chfnh va cira phu. O cira phu, nhan dan xay mdt ngdi mieu thd Son Thdn, ggi Id mieu Ndi, nen hang phia ddng cua mii ggi la hang Mieu Ndi. Nam 1965 trong cudc khang chien chd'ng My, hang Mieu Ndi da dugc cdi tao thanh Hdi trudng ciia Huyen uy, UBND huyen Gia Khanh (nay Id huyen Hoa Lu), cd the chiia dugc may tram ngudi. Nha Td d phfa nam khu 'vuc chiia, quay hudng tay, nin thdp hon nin chiia, gdm hai Idp, mdi ldp 3 gian, Idp ngodi (cdn ggi Id Tiln dudng) dung de tiep khach, sdm II, hdi hgp khi cd viec ldn. Ldp trong, dat tugng thd To Tay va Td Ta. Hai ben Tiln dudng (ldp ngoai) nha Td cdn cd 5 gian de nha su d va lam viec, hdi phfa bdc gdn sat vao Tiln dudng chiia. Phil ciia chiia ciing quay hudng tay, nhung ndm sau Idp ngoai nha Td, chi each Trung dudng ciia chiia vl phfa nam 1,2m. Kien tnic cua nha Td theo kieu nha dgc, 3 gian, gian trong ciing dat tugng thd Tam Toa Thanh Mdu trong ldu. Vi chiia ndm dudi chan mii, diing hang niii lam chiia, nen cdc kien true chiia, nha Td, Phu liln sdt nhau, thdng nhau, khdng diing ddc lap. Chiia cdn luu giir dugc "Kien Anh Linh Ddng tu bi ky " (Bdi ky bia dd xay dung chiia Ddng Anh Linh). Trong bdi ky cd doan: "Nguyen xd ta cd chiia dgng "Anh Linh Scm " danh lam cd tich. Dimg Id cdnh vdt dep 88
de, cd khi tuang anh linh hun diic. Tren phii qudc mgnh, duc/i ban phuc cho sinh ddn. Sang hen sd cdu deu cd icng nghiem. Qud Id danh lam thdng cdnh Thien Nam de nhd't ddng". ., . .,. Bai Minh khdc vao da cdn cd doan: "Hod cdng sdp ddt Dia the tuyet vdi Danh lam cd tich Hung khi sdng ngdi". Chiia Trung Trii cdn la co sd each mang. Id noi thanh lap Chi bd Dang ghip vdi thdn Thanh Khe, xa Ninh Hoa, huyen Hoa Lu tir nam 1944. Cudi nam 1946, do yeu cdu phuc vu chien dau, mdt xudng sdn xuat vii khf dugc dat tai chiia, chuyen sdn xua't min va luu dan de trang bi cho du kich trong cudc khang chien chd'ng Phap. Thang 2 nam 1954, de chi dao ddnh bdt Hoang Dan (ben kia bd sdng Day d Nam Dinh), md ddu cho viec gidi phdng ddng bdng ven ha luu sdng Day, ddng chf Van Tien Diing - Chinh uy Su doan 320 da chgn chiia Trung Trii lam tru sd cua Su doan. Chfnh vi vay, chiia Trung Trir da dugc Nha nudc cdng nhan la Di tfch Lich sir - Van hod.
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CHUAPHONGPHU Chiia Phong Phii cdn dugc ggi la chiia Phii Gia (lay ten lang tir xua dat ten cho chiia). Chiia ciing dugc ggi Id chua Hang, vi ndm trong hang mii Lien Hoa Mdt trai niii diing ddc lap cd dang hinh nhu mdt doa hoa sen thudc thdn Phong Phii, xa Ninh Giang, huyen Hoa Lu. Niii Lien Hoa cd mii Voi chdu Iai, cd ngdi nudc nhu rdng ud'n quanh. Chiia cdn cd mdt ten ggi nua Id chiia Ddng Lien Hoa, lay ten niii dat ten eho chiia. Cdn ten hieu eua chiia la "Khiic Mg Tu". Ten ggi nay dugc ghi trong tam bia Gia Long thii 16 (1817) d chiia. Chiia ndm vl phia tay nam xa Ninh Giang, quay theo hudng ddng nam. Hang mii Lien Hoa (noi lam chiia), theo cac nha khao cd, da phat hien hai chiec riu da cd vai, mai nhdn, cd nien dai d hau ky dd da mdi, sa ky dd ddng, each ngay nay khoang 4.000 - 5.000 nam. Theo tdm bia Gia Long thii 16(1817), chiia Phong Phii cd tu thdi Dinh Tien Hoang (the ky X), vi An Qudc Dai Vuong da den day, thdy cdnh dep da lap mdt ngdi chiia va dat ten la "Khiic Mg Tu, Cd Phong San " (Chiia Khiic Md, mii Cd Phong). Niii Lien Hoa trudc day ggi la mii Cd Phong. Chiia Phong Phii khdng chi thd Phat cdn thd thdn Trdn Vii Thien Tdn (Thdn dugc thd d ddng Thien Tdn thudc thi trdn Thien Tdn ngay nay). 90
Ngudi xua da kheo lgi dung hang ddng trong rudt niii de lam chiia. Hien nay, di vdo chiia tu hudng ddng, qua Tam quan cao to (mdi xay), xud'ng san gach rdng dudi chan niii, phdi theo cac bac, budc len cao khoang 5m (theo hudng tay bdc) mdi len din chiia. Chan mii Lien Hoa rdng va cao hon nin san gach, ngudi dan da xay nhd Tiln dudng 3 gian, dang cao, keo moi, hoanh vudng, ngdi vay. Tiln dudng nay nhu chdn che lap cira hang. Gian ben phdi Tiln dudng thd tugng Diic Ong ngdi trong ngai. Gian ben trai Tiln dudng thd tugng Nggc Hoang ngdi trong ngai. Gian giira cd cira di vdo trong hang. Ben trai Tiln dudng la Phu, kien tnic theo kilu chii "dinh " (Han tu), gdm 3 gian Bai dudng va mdt gian Hau cung, nin ciia Phu cao hon Tiln dudng, cung cd dang cao, hoanh vudng, ngdi vdy nhu Tiln dudng. Trong Hau cung ciia Phil chi thd cd mdt tugng Lilu Hanh. Giira hai hdi Tiln dudng ciia chiia va Phii la Idi vao Phat dien, tiic la vao trong hang ndm d trong mii Lien Hoa. Dirng d dudi san chiia nhin len, chi thay hai day nha nin cao tha'p khdng thay cira hang. Qua Tiln dudng vao hang, d phia ngoai cira hang cd hai khdi da to. cao chdn vl phfa ddng, nin Idi di vao ve phfa tay chi rdng cd 1,8m. Ben trai ngoai cita hang dung 5 bia da va 2 tdm bia khdc vao vach mii, tat cd gdm 7 bia dd nhu sau: 1- Bia khdc nam Canh Hung thii 21 (1760). 2-Bia khdc nam Mau Tuat thdi My Quan Cdng (15 5 8). 91
3- Bia khdc nam Khdi Dinh thiir 5 (1920). 4- Bia khdc nam Gia Long thii 16 (1817). 5- Bia khdc thdi Hdng Dure (1470-1497). 6- Bia khdc nam Binh Ngg, nien hieu Kien Gia (1211-1224) thdi Ly. 7- Mdt tdm bia khdng cd nien hieu. '-' Rieng tam bia khdc nam Hdng Phiic thii 2, ddi vua Le Anh Tdng (1558) cho biet nam nay My Quan Cdng Bui Van Khue da den tham chiia va cho tu sira Iai chua. Chiia da cd 51 gian nhd. Cira hang tiic la cira chiia rdng, cao, cd hinh nhu nira vdng trang. Vdo trong thdy d hai ben thanh hang gdn sal nen cd 18 biic cham tren da "thdp bdt La Hdn " (18 vi La Han). Nhiing biic cham khdc nay mang phong each nghe thuat thdi Ly. Day la 18 biic cham khdc La Han d tren vach da duy nhat cd d Viet Nam. Hang rdng, sau va cao (rdng han 8m, cao gan 10m, sau hon 20m), xay be d trong ciing, dat cac tugng Phat tir tren cao xudng tha'p nhu cac ngdi chiia khac. Di vao trong niia, thay mdt cua hang hep, thdp, mud'n vao phai Clii dau. Trong hang nhd nay cd mdt nhu da dai tir tren cao chay xud'ng ngan thanh hai ldp, tun hiit den han 25m nhu dudng dng khdi khdng Id cua Nha may dien. Hang nay ggi la toa Diem vuang. d day dat 9 pho tugng tugng trung nai diem vuang bdng da son son thep vdng. O giua la tugng Diem vuang cao to nhu ngudi that, tay phai cam vien nggc, tay trai dl len diii. Cac pho tugng 92
khac cao lm20, cd tugng cdm vd, cd tugng cdm biia vd cd tugng ddu trau mat ngua. Phfa ben trai hang cdn cd mdt tugng cung cao to nhu ngudi that, ddi mii kieu nha su, dd Id tugng thdnh Tran. ij : J Trong hang cdn cd mdt be thd thdi Ly. Be thd cao 45cm, bl mat gdn hinh vudng, mdi chilu 40cm, xung quanh dugc cham hinh sdng nudc. Ba dgt sdng cham kha dep, cd nggn sdng chfnh, cd nggn sdng phu dang dap dinh dang len lam cho ta cd cam giac cdc dgt sdng dang dang len tang tang, Idp Idp de den dinh. Dilu dac biet nua, sau Toa diem vuong cdn cd mdt hang ngang rdng, di lui ve phfa ddng lai cd mdt ngach hang dai niira chay thang thdng sang phfa bdc mii, la hang xuyen mii. Nhu the loan bd khu thd Phat (Thugng dien) la hang niii rdng. Nin ciia hang phang, dugc lat gach hoa dep va sach. Chiia chfnh Id mdt ky cdng ciia tao hod, ludn trudng tdn, viing chai theo thdi gian ma chua he phai triing tu, dai tu. Thang 3 nam 1947, chiia Phong Phii la noi ket nap Dang vien mdi cua Chi bd Ddng Trung Son. Dinh niii Lien Hoa, trong thdi ky khang chien chd'ng Phap la viln vgng dai ciia dan quan du kfch. Nam 1950, hang Chiia Phong Phii la noi so tan ciia Tinh uy Ninh Binh. Nam 1953 hang chiia cung la tru sd ciia Ban chi huy Trung doan 48, Su dodn 320. Trong cudc khang chien chdng My ciin nudc, hang Chiia Phong Phii lai la tru sd 93
cua Cdng dodn tinh Ninh Binh. cdn la dia diem chuyen diin ra cdc cudc hgp, hdi nghi ciia huyen va tinh. Chinh vi vay, chua Phong Phii da dugc Nha nudc cdng nhan la Di tich Lich sir - Van hod va da cd ngudi vinh tha nhu sau: "Phii Gia - Phong Phu cdnh thien nhien Di tich danh lam tren nghin nien Hang sdu thdm thdm vdng trdng nguyet Cica dgng Lien Hoa tua mdi hien ".
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CHUA THAP DA ^ t S- i •
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Chiia Thap Da d thdn Thien Dudng, xa Ninh Van, huyen Hoa Lu, ten hieu Id "Minh Dice Thdp Tu", dugc xay dung each ngay nay khoang tren 400 nam. Niii Su Tir la mdt trai niii ldn thudc thdn Thien Dudng. O phfa nam vach da dudi chan mii hdm sau vao trong, nen ngudi dan da dua vao dd xay dung mdt ngdi chiia nhd nhu ndm ggn vdo hdc mii. Tren vach niii cham khdc 3 chir Han ldn: "Thien Cung Dong" (Ddng Thien Cung). Ben vdch niii phia ben phdi chiia cdn cd mdt ta'm bia dugc cham vao vach da. Phat dien la mdt nhd dgc 3 gian bdy cdc tugng Phat. Nha Td quay hudng tay, ndm sau Phat dien sat vao vach mii. Phii ndm gdn Phat dien va Nha Td. Dilu dac biet d phfa trudc Phat dien - cdng trinh cd gid tri nhat giir vai trd chii dao d chiia Id mdt thdp da 3 tdng, cao gdn lOm (cd be). Thdp hinh vudng, canh tang mdt ciia thdp cd chieu dai 2,8m, tdng hai, tdng ba hep dan, dugc xay bdng nhirng phien da vudng va chir nhat da due deo vudng thanh sdc canh mat phdng theo chilu vat, gdn khit vao nhau ngang, dgc. Cd nhirng phien da nang den may ta. Hudng ciia thap la hudng nam. Tdng mdt ciia thap mat quay hudng nam, cd khoang trdng lui vao trong rudt thdp hinh chu nhat dung diing, cao 0,8m, rdng 0,6m, sau vao 1,0m. Dd la mdt ban thd trong rudt thap. Thanh da chdn phfa sau ban thd la tdm phil dieu da cao 0,8m, rdng 0,6m tac ndi tugng 95
ba Trinh Thi Nguyet Ang Cdng chiia. Tren nde ban thd trong ldng thdp cham khdc dao bua bat qudi bdng da. Mat tiln ciia thdp da cdn cham khdc 3 chu Han ldn "Minh Dice Thdp " (Thdp Minh Due). Trudc thap da cdn cd mdt ban thd da. Thdp dd nay thd Trinh Thi Nguyet Ang Cdng chiia. Id con gai cua chua Trinh, Idy vua Le va da tu hanh d chua. Tuong truyln, vao thdi Hau Le, d thdn Thien Dudng, xa Ninh Van cd dng Nguyin Phii Ngir lam quan trong trilu Le, phu trach Ifnh ngu lam. Ong cd tai danh dan bdu. Nhirng khi trilu dinh td chiic yen tiec dng diu phdi danh dan bdu de gdp vui. • - > •' •. i' ';• "Ddn bdu ai gdy thi nghe Ldm thdn con gdi chd nghe ddn bdu " Nhung Cdng chiia Trinh Thi Nguyet Ang lai rat me tie'ng dan bdu ciia dng. Nhilu lan ba vdi rieng dng vao noi cung cam de hdu dan cho ba nghe. Ba say me tieng dan bau ciia dng den miic khdng dugc nghe thi khdng chiu dugc. Ong Nguyin Phii Ngir rat Io sg vua Le phdt giac ra dilu dd. Vi vay, dng da tim each tir quan de vl que lanh nan. Nguyet Ang Cdng chiia lay vua Le nhung khdng cd con nen da xin vua cho di tu hanh. Dugc Vua Le ddng y, Bd da chgn thdn Thien Dudng, xa Ninh Van la nai tu hanh, cung cd y mudn di tim dng Nguyin Phil Ngu d dd mong dugc thudng thii'c tie'ng dan bdu ciia dng. Bie't dugc tin ay dng Nguyin Phii Ngir rat 96
lo sg, liln bd ldng chd'n vdo thung Miing d. Mdt thdi gian sau, dng mat tai dd. (Sau ndy ldng Thien Dudng da thd dng tai dinh Dudng Ha. Ong da trd thanh Thanh Hoang ciia ldng). Bd Trinh Tlii Nguyet Ang vl thdn Thien Dudng tim khdng thdy dng Nguyin Phii Ngir ben den ngdi chiia nhd d dudi chan niii Su Tir tu hanh. Mdt thdi gian sau, ba trd vl Thanh Hod va mat tai Kinh dd. Nhan dan Thien Dudng thuong nhd ba, nen xay thap da de thd ba gan chiia. Thdi nhd Le va thdi nha Nguyin da cd nhilu sdc phong ba la "Trung ddng thdn ". Chfnh vi vay, ngdi chiia d dudi chan mii Su Tir la nai ba Trinh Thi Nguyet dng di tu, sau khi dugc xay thap da gdn chiia, dugc ggi la chiia Thap Da, hay chiia ihap da Minh Diic.
CHUA 6 HUYEN GIA VI£N
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BAI DINH KHU CHUA LdN NHAT VIET NAM Day la mdt khu chua Idn nhdt Viet Nam, dang dugc xay dung, du kien den nam 2010 se hoan thanh de ky niem 1.000 nam vua Ly Thai Td ddi dd tu Hoa Lu ra Thang Long (1010-2010). Vua Dinh Tien Hoang len ngdi Vua nam 968 da xay dung Kinh dd Hoa Lu d xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu ngay nay. Nam 980 Vua Ll Dai Hanh cung len ngdi d chfnh Kinh dd Hoa Lu, lap nen mdt trieu dai mdi: trilu Tiln Le. Nha Dinh va nhd Tiln Le da rat quan tam den Phat gido va cho xay dung rat nhieu chiia. Thdi ay Kinh dd Hoa Lu trd thanh trung tam cua Phat gido. Trudc nha Dinh, d Ninh Binh da cd nhilu chua cd, cd chiia da dugc xay dung tir trudc thdi Hai Ba Trung. Trdi qua cdc trilu dai, cho den bay gid, Phat giao d Ninh Binh vdn dugc phdt trien va nhilu chua dang dugc xay dung lai. Vi vay, viec xay dung mdt ngdi chiia ldn nhdt Viet Nam d Ninh Binh la dilu cd y nghTa rat ldn. I i. . Ngdi chiia nay lai toa lac gdn Cd dd Hoa Lu - d xa Gia Sinh, huyen Gia Viln. Dilu dd the hien mdt sii tiep ndi, bd sung hoan chinh cho Cd dd Hoa Lu ngay nay. Kinh dd Hoa Lu xua da cd chiia Nhat Tru. Din nha Ly xay dung Kinh dd d Thang Long (Ha Ndi) cung xay dung chiia Mdt Cot. 99
Hien nay, mdt sd chiia xay dung tir thdi nha Dinh, nha Tiln Le vdn cdn d Cd dd Hoa Lu. Cac ngdi chua a'y tuy nhd, nhung bay gid se cd mdt ngdi chiia Idn d gdn Cd dd Hoa Lu la khdng dinh them gid tri, tdm cd ciia Cd dd Hoa Lu ngdy nay. Khu chiia Bai Dfnh dugc xay dung tren ddi mii cao tai xa Gia Sinh, huyen Gia Viln, gdn chiia Bai Dfnh cd tir xa xua ndm trong hang ddng mii Bai Dfnh (ggi la chiia Bai Dfnh cii). Lay ten la Bai Dfnh dl ghi nhan khu chiia d gdn chua Bdi Dfnh cii, ciing la ten mii. Vi trf dd Id mdt dia diim rat tuyet vdi. Vi xay dung chua mdi, thudng ndm tren nin chiia cu, hoac gdn chiia cu, Iai toa lac d ddi niii la dilu ma cdc ngdi chiia ndi tieng ciia Viet Nam da nhu the. Dia diem nay each Cd dd Hoa Lu va khu hang ddng Trang An khdng xa, rat thuan tien cho du khach sau khi tham Cd dd Hoa Lu xong se di van cdnh Khu chiia Bdi Dinh. Khu chiia Bai Dfnh sau nay se la tam diem du lich ciia cd viing du lich Hoa Lu. Khu chiia Bdi Dinh gdm cd nhirng cdng trinh chfnh nhu sau: '.: -• ' Ndm tren ddi cao la toa Tam The, 3 tdng mai cong cd 12 mai d bd'n phfa, cao 30m, dai 52m, rdng 47m. Ba tdng mai cd hai hang cd lau cd tac dung nang do cao cua chiia len, ddng thdi vira la'y anh sdng vira de thdng khf. Bd'n phfa nin ciia tod Tam The diu xay cac tudng da thdp, tam cdp theo do dd'c ciia ddi va xay nhilu bac da de di len chiia, tao cho khdng gian chiia hoanh 100
trang, trang trgng. Trong tod Tam The thi dat 3 tugng Tam The bdng ddng, mdi tugng nang 50 tan. Day la cac pho tugng ddng ldn chi mdi cd d Khu chiia Bai Dfnh. Xud'ng thdp hon, theo dudng chfnh dao. Id mdt vudn sinh vat cdnh quy hiem. Tai day dung cac hdn non bd ddc dao vd nhung cay cdnh dep. Theo do dd'c ciia ddi la den Dien thd Phap Chu gdm 2 tdng mai cong, cd 8 mai d 4 phfa, cung cd mdt hang cd lau. Dien thd Phap Chil cao 27m, dai 47,7m, rdng 43,2m. Dilu dac biet d Dien thd Phap Chu Id dat mdt tugng A Di Da bang ddng rdt to ldn, nang 100 tan, gap ddi mdt tugng Tam Thi. Pho tugng ddng nay chi mdi cd d Khu chiia Bai Dfnh va cung la tugng Phat to Idn nha't Viet Nam. Tiep dd la mdt san chiia rdng, dung mdt tugng Quan am bd tat bdng da to cao, rdi din Dien thd Quan The Am Bd Tat, mdt tdng mai cong. Lai cd mdt san chiia va mgt vudn cay niira, rdi mdi den thap chudng ldn, kien true bat giac theo kieu chdng diem, gdm 3 tdng mai cong. tdt cd la 24 mdi d tdm phfa vdi cac ddu dao. Trong thap chudng nay, treo mdt chudng cao 10m, dudng kfnh mieng 5m, nang 50 tan. Tren ddi cao vl phfa ben trai toa Tam TTie cung treo mdt chudng cao 5,6m, dudng kfnh mieng 3,5m, nang 27 tan. Cung theo dudng chfnh dao, hai ben dudng la hai vudn chiia rdng ldn, xud'ng thdp hon niia mdi cd Tam quan. 3 tdng mai cong. Tir hai phfa ciia Tam quan xay cac day nha hanh lang bao bgc khu chiia len dl'n toa Tam The. Trong cac nha hanh lang nay dat 500 vi La 101
Han bang da, mdi tugng mdt dang hinh khac nhau. khdng tugng ndo gid'ng nhau diu cao to dd so: "Mdi ngudi mgt ve, mat con ngicdi, • • .. ' :': Cudn cudn dau thucmg chdy dudi trdi : ^ Cudc hgp Ig lUng trdm vdt vd". Ddla: ... "... bay nhieu hdn trong gid bdo '•• •. • Bdy nhieu tdm siC, bdy nhieu ddi -i'l- 1. • Ld cha dng dd bang xuang mdu MO •'.'• Dd khd, khdng yen cd diing ngdi" V •• 1 o • . -' ;• (Cac vj La Han chua Tay Phuang - Huy Can)
Dd dai tit thap len cao tfnh tit Tam quan d dudi len de'n toa Tam The d tren Id gdn 800m. Khu vuc chiia Bai Dfnh cdn lan ra mdt khdng gian rdng Idn han niia, cd gieng nggc, hd Phdng sinh, khu thd Mdu, khu thd Td, khu thap md su, khu Nha tang thiln vien, khu Nha khach, Bdo thap 14 tdng va khu Bdo tang Phat giao Viet Nam. Cd the ndi, Khu chiia Bdi Dfnh sdp tdi day Id mdt chua cd quy md hoanh trang, to Idn, day du va dep de nhat tii trudc cho den nay d ddt nudc ta. ;•
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CHUA DICH LONG - nod f : "NAM THIEN DE TAM D O N G " ^^
Chiia Dich Long thudc xa Gia Thanh, huyen Gia Viln. Chiia d lung chiing mii Dich Long, cao hon so vdi chan mii khodng 80 met. Tir xa xua, qua trinh phong hod casta ciia niii da vdi d day da tao ra hang ddng, nhung cay cdi mgc um tiim khdng ai bill. Tuong truyen, vao nam 1739 mdt tilu phu di kiem ciii, leo len mii da phdt hien ra ciia ddng, vao trong thay cd nhilu nhu da dep, dac biet trdng thdy mdt nhu dd cd hinh gid'ng nhu tugng Phat nen lap ban thd thd Phat ngay tir dd. Theo van bia de lai, mai den nam Canh Than, trilu vua Le Hien Tdng, nien hieu Canh Hung thii nhat, tii'c la nam 1740, ddng mdi dugc biin thanh chua de thd Phat, ggi la chiia Cd Am. - ' Ggi la chiia Dich Long, nhung thuc ra la mdt cum kiln tnic gdm mdt he thd'ng: dinh, din, chiia cd kinh va ba hang ddng thdng nhau. Dudi chan mii, he thd'ng kiln tnic dinh, din, chua dugc xay dung theo the chu "Tam " (Han tu) tren mdt khu da't rdng hon mdt hecta. . ,-^. . rVao chua Dich Long, neu di theo ldi phia Nam, ddu tien qua Tam Quan uy nghiem, thanh thoat, den san gach. Tiep dd la ngdi dinh, nhan dan dia phuong xay dung tir thdi Nguyin. Khu vuc phia ddng cua ngdi dinh, la hd ban nguyet rdng va mdt vudn thdp, cd 5 thap cao 3 tang 103
nai chdn cat cac vi su da tru tri va mat d day. Ngoai ra cdn cd Tru tri la nai cac nha su d, Phuang trugng la nha tiep khach. Phfa Tay ciia ngdi dinh, sat chan niii di qua cdu Vdm nhd Id den ban thd Phat Ba Quan Am. Dudi cdu Vdm, lui vao chan mii la mdt hang Ngang xuyen qua mii Dich Long vd nhiing mii khac dai khodng 3.000 met, an thdng ra den sdng Day. Neu nudc sdng Day dang cao, se chay theo hang nay vao. Khu vuc vudn chua rdng, dugc trdng nhilu cay dai thu, cay an qua, cay hoa dan xen vdi cdc cdng trinh kiln true. Dac biet cd cay tai chua than mgc thdng, cdnh xien ngang, tudi thg tren 100 nam; cay mudm mgc tren mii da da sd'ng gdn 200 nam nay. Ngdi dinh 5 gian siing siing dugc ggi la dinh da, vi tat ca cac cdt, tang, xd diii, cai bay diu bdng da. Trudc khi len chiia, nen vao ngdi dinh da nay de tudng niem Thiln su Nguyin Minh Khdng va thudng ngoan mdt cdng trinh kien tnic dinh chu ylu lam bdng da. Tam cdt cai bdng da xanh nguyen khdi, iron, to, cao hon 4 met diu dugc cham ndi nhung con rdng ldn dang ud'n lugn trong may de hiit nudc, ca chip theo nudc vugt len. Cd con rdng ddu ngudc len nhu dang vuon len may. Nhin cac cdt da cham khdc rdng, se cd cam giac nhu dugc xem mdt dan rdng ldn dang bay. Mdi con rdng qudn quanh cdt diu cd mdt dang ve khdc nhau rat sd'ng ddng. Tam cdt quan to, trdn nhu cdt cai, cao gdn 3 met, hai hang trudc, sau, mat tien diu dugc cham khdc ndi cdc cau dd'i bdng chii Han ca nggi cdnh dep d nai day, ddng thdi an chiia nhiing y tudng sau sdc. 104
Tdt ca 16 cdt da nay diu dugc dat tren nhiing tang da cd bdng ldn cao 0,60 met. Rdt hiem cd ngdi dinh todn bd phdn chinh cua nha dugc lam bdng da xanh nguyen khdi cao, to, cham khdc cdng phu va tf mi de'n nhu vay! Gian giira ciia ngdi dinh dat mdt sap gd va ban thd dl bai vi da thd Thiln su Nguyin Minh Khdng. Hai ben cdm bat bdo. Qua dinh la din thd Nguyin Minh Khdng ba gian. Hai gian td hiiu dat hai bai vi thd. Gian giiia thd tugng Thiln su Nguyin Minh Khdng bdng gd son son thep vang long Idy cao gdn mdt met. Hai ben tugng de cac hop dung cac sdc phong. Quay trd ra qua ngdi dinh da, rdi ngugc lai se thdy chiia Ha 3 gian d sau din thd Nguyin Minh Khdng. Chudi vd la Hau cung cua chua Ha thd Phat. Trong gian giiira, phfa tren cao treo mdt cud'n thu cd hai chir Han "Licii Ly " d giua, hai chir hai ben la "Bdo ", "Dien ", cd nghia la chiia nay quy nhu Luu Ly. Gian ben trdi phd'i thd su td va treo mdt qua chudng. Dac biet d gian ben phai dat mdt ngai da thd va cdc dd thd diu Idm bdng dd nhu: dai, mam to, bat huong... ' "'• Tit chiia Ha, theo dudng len chiia, men sudn mii, budc len 9 bac da, re phdi, se den 'Tdi Linh Tic", cdn ggi la Phil Diirc Ong. Day Id ban thd thiir chin ciia chiia. Trong phil Diic Ong dat tugng Diic Ong mat dd, cd nhiem vu trdng coi todn bd cdnh chiia. 105
Dudi san gach, trudc phu Diic Ong cd ba tam bia da tac d thdi Nguyin vdo cac ddi vua: Minh Mang, Tu Diic, Khdi Dinh diu ndi vl viec tu sira chiia. Trinh Diic Ong xong. men theo sudn mii, leo gan 100 bac da nua. se tdi chiia Dich Long. Len den day, tiic la da budc qua 105 bac da de tdi chiia chinh, du khdch se simg sdt trudc cdnh trf ma tao hod da kien tao nen mdt cira ddng cao, rdng dep den kinh ngac. Nhin len cao, thdy tren cira ddng cd 6 chir dai tu: "Nham San ddng, CdAm tu" (chua Cd Am, ddng Nham Son). Vi the cd the ggi chiia Dich Long la chua cd Am va ddng Dich Long Id ddng Nham Son. Hai ben ta huu cira ddng cd hai tugng Hd Phap dung dd'i dien nhau nhu diing canh cdng chiia tao cam gidc tutin, dm dp. Vdch ddng ben trdi, d tren cao khoang 8 met cd treo mdt qua chudng ldn cao han mdt met, nang khoang mgt tan, diic d thdi Nguyin. Ngay giiia cira ddng la ban thd Mdu cdng ddng. Hai cdt da, phfa ben khac ddi cau dd'i: "Canh tri thien nhien, Tay Hd phong nguyet ,.<., Anh ki dia quynh. Nam qudc son ha". (Cdi non sdng trdng gid chdn ndy vdn Id cdnh tri thien nhien cua nudc Nam ta dd). Budc sang ben phdi la den ddng thd Phat. Day chfnh la chiia Dich Long quay hudng nam (la hudng ciia trf tue). Trudc cua chiia cd cac khdi da gid'ng hinh voi chdu, hd phuc, su tir chdu nhu dang canh giu bao ve cira Phat. 106
Do cao cua ddng thd Phat Id 20 met, trdn ddng cd nhilu nhii da dep ldp lanh nhu cai dii che, thach nhu rii xud'ng nhu chudng treo. Chilu dai ciia ddng khodng 50 mit. Ddng rdng chimg 15 gian nhd to, ngudi dan d day da lay ddng lam chiia, ddng cao sau nen chiia cang rdng ldn. Trudc cira ddng cd hai gieng nggc chiia nudc tir nhu da chay xud'ng quanh nam. Hai ben cira ddng cd hai tugng Hd Phdp niia. Hai tugng nay diu cudi tren su tir, chan di giay. Tugng Ong Thien tay cdm qua dao trudng thg nhu mudn ban cho sir trudng sinh. Tugng Ong ac tay cdm thanh guam nhu mud'n trimg tri nhirng ke sdng bac ac d tren ddi. Trong "chua " bay nhilu tugng Phat, cudi ddng ben dudi hinh thanh mdt phien da tu nhien dat ba pho tugng thep vang ban tir thdi Thieu Tri (1841 - 1847), dd Id Tam The Phat. Hang dudi Id Di Da tam tdn va den mdt tugng Phat do nhu da hinh thanh. Tiep theo la cdc hang dat cdc tugng: Thfch Ca Mau Ni, Di Lac tam tdn, Thfch Ca so sinh, Nggc Hodng Thugng de. Dac biet d day cdn dat hai tugng Phat Ba Quan Am va A Di Da dugc tac bdng da xanh nguyen khdi, ca be, mdi tugng nang hon mdt tan. Tugng Phat Bd Quan Am cd rat nhilu cdnh tay, ban tay tua tiia mgc ra tir da nhdn Ii trdng rat dep. Tren ban thd Phat cdn de cay den sdt cd 28 chd cdm nen tugng trung cho 28 ngdi sao sang d tren bdu trdi ggi la "nhi thdp bdt tii". Tir ddng nay, theo ngach da ben tay trai, di vao Hang Tdi. Neu ddng thd Phat la hang thii nha't, thi Hang Tdi la hang thii hai. 107
Vao Hang Tdi se thay ngay khdi nhii da to. trdn, nhdn li mgc tu nin hang nhd len. Dd la bdu sii'a me cua tao hod. Trong Hang Tdi cd nhieu nhu da tir tren nde ddng chdy xud'ng nin, trdn. cao hon chuc met nhu nhung nhanh rl cay da cd thu thd xud'ng mat dat, dugc ggi la cac cdt chdng trdi. Xung quanh hang va trdn hang loan Id cac nhii da, theo trf tudng tugng phong phii ciia con ngudi ma cd cdc ten ggi nhu: voi udng nudc chum, hum udng nudc vai, voi chdu. hd phuc, phugng miia, ca giuang vay, rdng cud'n nudc, khi cdng con, ga dp trirng, tdm an Id dau, ba lao ban thud'c, but mgc, ngdi bdu, dien nggc, rdng vang dp td trong hang, sao sa, cay vang, cay nggc, cd chd Id xd nhu ngan Idp sdng, van nhu da nhu nhiing dam may ngii sdc dang bay.... Cd thi ndi day la nhiing "ki quan " ciia thien tao. Mdi khdng gian ciia vach ddng, trdn ddng la mdt biirc tranh nghe thuat, nhirng net cham khdc tuyet vdi cua thien nhien, hdp ddn vl hinh khdi, sd'ng ddng trong dudng net, dat den miirc tinh xao ma con ngudi khdng the nao lam dugc. Di hit Hang Td'i, cira hang thdt lai, phdi budc len cao khoang 10 met nira mdi den Hang Sdng. Hang Tdi va Hang Sang an thdng nhau. Ngay cira Hang Sang cd ldi len trdi va Id'i xud'ng am phii dd'i dien nhau. Cira len trdi ggi la ciia ddng con. Id thien d tan dinh mii. Tu day anh sang liia vao lam cho hang sang len, nen ggi Id Hang Sang. 108
Ldi xudng am phii sau, ciing cd nhilu thach nhu cd hinh dang nhu: tod ldu ciia diem vuong, thudng ludng, ba ba, rdn, ret va cd nguc quy sii! Dudng xudng am phil, nghe vang vdng nhu cd tieng dan thdnh thdt do nudc tir cac nhii da diu dan rai. Tuong truyln, ngudi xua bd mgt qua budi cd danh da'u xudng hang sau nay vdo miia nudc ldn, may ngay sau thdy qua bdng dd ndi len d sdng Day. Vl d tren cao, cira hang Sang thdt lai, cd khoang Id thien, hai hang Sang va Td'i nd'i liln nhau, an thdng, lai dai khoang gdn 250 met nen khi cd gid thdi manh, trong ddng phat ra am thanh nghe nhu tieng sao. Ddng chinh la mdt cdi sao da khdng Id ciia tao hod, ngan nam vi vu giiira trdi ddt. Ten Dich Long cd nghTa la nhu the ! ("Dich " nghTa la sao, "Long" la gid). i -i-ri-i Qua hai cdt ddng tru d Hang Sang, ciing nhin thay nhilu nhu da cd cdc hinh thii la nhu: tien sa, ca chip hoa long, riia vang, chiia ba hang, cdu gdy, lgn si beo trang, va cdnh: "Ld ren tlidi be khoan khoan, Ngdn ngang kim biia rdn rdng cdnh Tien ". O day cdn cd ban thd cd Chin Giing (vi cd 9 cai gieng nhd dung nudc, d trong cd ca chip va riia boi). Qua ban thd cd Chin Gieng la ban thd Mau Chiia Kho ciia Dich Long, ben canh cd cay tiln, cay thdc do nhu da tao thanh. Tuang truyen, ai cd nhan duyen mudn nhilu tiln, ldm thdc, hay sd vao day, vl se cd ldc. 109
Dieu ddc dao d Hang Td'i va Hang Sang la cac thach nhu, khi lay da gd vao thi nghe lanh Idnh nhu tieng chudng, bap bimg nhu tieng trdng, am u nhu tieng md. Am thanh trdm bdng la ky! Ngudi ta ggi dd la nhung dan chieng, dan trdng. dan md, nhung thach cam cua thien nhien. Mdt dilu ciing rat dac biet niia Id, nhu da trong hang rat huyin dieu, cd nhirng ddi nhii thach lap lanh bay sdc cdu vdng dugc ggi Id "sao sa " vd mdt sd nhu da mau thay ddi theo anh sang mat trdi. Nd hdng hdng Iiic rang ddng, lap lanh sang nhu pha le liic trua he va Iai dd thdm khi hoang hdn budng xudng. Chfnh vi the, nghe ndi, chiia Trinh Sam khi ghe tham ddng da cho khdc tha vao vach da nhu sau: "Nham son ban khdi thanh thanh muc, Thach nhu toan nhu bfch tiic cdu. Trilu thuy thien nhien thudng thudng ha, Cay hoa chung cd tu xuan thu". Dich nghTa: "Cica nui he ra xanh xanh nhu cdnh mdn che ru, NhU dd mem mgi bieng biec nhu qud cdu iron. Nudc thuy trieu ngdn ndm len xudng, Hoa trong khe niii dd trdi bao thud xudn thu ". Rat tiec la bai tha khdc tren vdch da nay cua chiia Trinh Sam hien nay khdng cdn niia. 110
Di het Hang Sdng, se ra den cira hau cua ddng. Dimg day nhin xa, bao quat dugc ca mdt viing rgng ldn ciia non nudc Hoa Lu lich sir. Kia Id mii Due Thuy, mii Nggc My Nhan, cdc day mii cua Cd dd Hoa Lu. Day Id sdng Hodng Long, sdng Day ud'n lugn nhu nhirng ddi lua trdng phai tren mat ddt. Nhd cira, cay cdi, ddng rudng xanh tuoi. Tat ca la mdt biic tranh son thuy toan bfch. Nii .sT Hd Xuan Huang rat me cac canh dep ciia ddt nudc. Ba da timg den "Chua Qudn Sic", "Ddng Huang Tich ", "Hang Cdc Cd", "Hang Thdnh Hod chiia Thdy ", "Deo Ba Ddi"'" vd da den day. Thdi a'y, mud'n tham chiia Dich Long, chi cd mdt dudng vao ra duy nhat theo hudng Bdc, phdi di thuyln qua hai ben niii sat liln nhau, vua mdt ldi nudc chay, the rat chat hep gid'ng nhu mdt cai cira, ggi la Kem Trdng (thudc xa Thanh Hdi, huyen Thanh Liem, tinh Ha Nam). Niii Kem Trdng cd ten la Kiem Long. Le Thanh Tdng cd bai tha khdc vao niii, nen cdn ggi la mii Dt Tho. Din ddi vua Le Thdn Tdng, nien hieu Diic Long thii 2 (1630) da Id sut, bdi tha khdng cdn. Ngdi thuyln, nhin the mii ky vT dac biet, dd bdng xud'ng ddng sdng, vdi khau khf tho rieng ciia minh, Bd chiia tha Ndm Hd Xuan Huang da viet bai tha "Kem Trdng": Hai ben thi niii, giica thi sdng, '^' -•'*' " Cd phdi ddy Id Kem Trdng khdng? ' ' Gid gidt sudn non khua ldc cdc, i 1) Ten cdc bdi tha Ndm ciia Hd Xudn Hucmg.
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'•' Sdng ddn mat nudc vd long bong. - O trong hang nid cdn hai hep, Ra khdi ddu non dd rgng thiing. Qua cica minh ai nen ngdm lgi, Ndo ai cd biet ndi bung bdng. Bdi tho dugc lan truyln nhanh, rdt nhilu ngudi thudc Idng. Theo tdm bia tac nam Tur Dire thii 7 (1854) chiing ta biit nam 1821, trong chuyen ra Bdc Ha. khi trd vl kinh dd Hul, "voia Minh Mang nghe tieng ddn chiia Dich Long dep, nen da ghe tham. Tuong truyln, nha vua ngu thuyln, sdp phai chui qua Kem Trdng thi cd mdt vien can than ngdi cimg thuyln dgc cho vua nghe bdi tho Ndm tren ciia Hd Xuan Huong. Nha vua nghe xong, mat dd bimg, tire gian ndi: "Mii qui! Mii qui! Bdt ki cdi chi, din cd ddt trin dep de Id vdy, mu ta cdng ngd ra cdi dd!". Vua Minh Mang liln ha lenh dirng thuyln, cho ddi vien quan dia phuang den truyln, bdt dd'c thiic nhan dan hai huyen Gia Viln, tinh Ninh Binh va Thanh Liem, tinh Ha Nam phdi dao mdt con sdng khac vdng cung quanh niii Kem Trdng, de ngir thuyln den tham chiia Dich Long. Vua da truyln, quan, dan la bl tdi phdi nghe va lam. The la hang ngdn ngudi trong mdt ngay, mdt dem da ddo xong mdt con sdng dai 3 kildmet, rdng 10 mit, sau 5 mit. Sdng dao xong, Vua Minh Mang ngu thuyln den tham chiia Dich Long. Qud la mdt canh dep dieu ky, 112
Vua liln tang cho 5 chir "Nam Thien De Tam Ddng" (Dgng dep thur ba d trdi Nam). Ngay nay, d xa Gia Thanh, huyen Gia Viln cdn di tich cdi Ben Ngu va con sdng Dao ay. Trdi qua gdn 200 nam, con sdng Ddo nay chi cdn la mdt lach nhd. Trong cudn "Dgi Nam nhd't thdng chi" ciia Qud'c sir qudn trilu Nguyin cd ghi: "Ndm Minh Mgng thicl (1821), vua di Bdc tudn len xem nui, din ndm Minh Mgng thic 3 (1822), ban cho bdn pho tucfng Phdt bdng ddng thip vdng vd 50 lang bac. Ndm Thieu Tri thic 2 (1842) vua di Bdc tudn, ha lenh cho vien gidm thdnh ve bdn dd ddng tiin vd ban cho 100 quan tiin"'". Nhu the. hai dng vua Minh Mang va Thieu Tri d thdi Nguyin da den tham chiia Dich Long va ciing tien chiia. Ngay nay, cac du khdch bd'n phuong trong va ngoai nudc cung din tham thii chiia Dich Lgng va ciing tien vao chiia. Chiia Dich Long hang nam diu td chiic le hdi tir ngay 6 den 10 thang gieng am lich cdn keo dai den hit thang 3. Toan cdnh chiia Dich Long la sir hai hod nhu'ng cdng trinh kien true ciia con ngudi va tao hod, cd cao sau, am duang dd'i dai, sdng tdi, hu thuc, cd nhac, cd hoa. cd tho va cay cdi tuai xanh tao nen cdnh Bdng lai, (/) "Dgi Nam nhdt ihdng chi "-Tap III - NXB KHXH - Hd Ndi 1971 -Trang 236.
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Tien cdnh giira trdn the. Vao chiia de ngdm sir can bdng ciia tao hod, de con ngudi tam linh tim ra chinh minh, II Phat, cdu mong cho dugc nhilu phiic lanh va thudng thiic nhiing tuyet tdc nghe thuat ciia tao hod da gianh rieng ban tang cho nai nay. Dd Id mdt thdng canh ddc ddo vira hoang so vira ki vT vdi tieng chudng ngan ciia chiia vd "tieng sdo thdi" ciia trdi ngdn nam khdng diil.
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CHUA BAI DINH 0 Ninh Binh cd mdt ddng ma ngudi xua da khdng dinh: "Ndo Dich Long, ndo Thien Tdn. Bdn Long, Bich Ddng xem cdn kem ddy ", dd chfnh la hang ddng d niii Bai Dfnh thudc xa Gia Sinh, huyen Gia Viln: "Nili kia ai tgc ai xdy, Ben kia dgng Phdt, ben ndy dgng Tien. " Tir Cd dd Hoa Lu d xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu, theo dudng Nguyin Van Trdi di khoang 5 kildmlt niia la den mii Bdi Dfnh. Niii Bdi Dfnh dung ddc lap, cao den han 200 met, cd dien tfch khodng gdn 150.000 mil vudng, quay hudng Ddng, vdi dang vdng cung hai ben khep lai tiia tay ngai, tao thanh mdt thung d dudi rdng khodng 3 ha, ggi la thung Chiia. . u Nhin theo gdc do khdc, mii Iai gid'ng mdt ngudi khdng Id ngdi quay lung ra bien, hai chan dudi vl phia tay bdc va tay nam. Niii Bai Dfnh cdn gitlr dugc cai nguyen so ciia mii rirng hoang da. tu nhien. Nhung dilu ky thii hon la: "Giica hmg trdi mdt cica thiin mdn, Tren dinh mii hinh thdnh ba ddnQ." Mudn len tham chiia Bai Dfnh phai budc len qua 300 bac da. Len den lung chimg mii, tiic la di dugc nira doan dudng ddc, cd hang Voi Phuc de nhiing ngudi di ll 115
trinh Diic Ong. Trong hang dat tugng Diic Ong mat do, cd nhiem vu trdng coi toan bd canh chiia. Tiep tuc leo mii se den ddng thd Phat ndm vl phfa tay phai. Nhin len cao thdy tren cira ddng cd bd'n chii dai tur: "Minh Dinh Danh Lam ", cd nghTa Id: "Luu danh tham cdnh dep ". Day chfnh la Hang Sang, la ddng thd Phat. Chilu cao ciia ddng chi tren 2 met, nhung dai 25 met, rdng 15 mit, nin bdng phdng. Tren trdn ddng khdng cd cdc nhu da chdy xud'ng, ma bdng phdng nhan ly nhu nha mai bdng. Rat hiem cac hang ddng cd mai phang, rdng den nhu the. Tuang truyln, Thiln su Nguyin Minh Khdng (1065 - 1141) que d xa Dam Xa, phu Trudng Yen, nay la xa Gia Thdng, huyen Gia Viln, khi den day tim cay thudc da phat hien ra ddng nay, tir dd bien ddng thanh chiia thd Phat. Trong chiia dugc bay nhilu tugng Phat. Tir ddng nay neu theo ngach da ben tay trai se di vao mdt hang niira, thdp hon. Trong hang thd thdn Cao Son, theo truyln thuylt la mdt vi tudng cua vua Hiing. Tugng Cao Son tao dung theo tu the ngdi, eao hon mdt met, son son thep vdng long Idy. Ra cira hang, nhin xudng tha'y mdt thung rdng. Tuong truyln, thung cd nhilu cay thud'c quy ma Thiln su Nguyin Minh Khdng da tim ra. Dd Id vudn thud'c ciia Nguyin Minh Khdng. Sau nay, nhilu luong y da de'n day tim cdc cay thudc quy hiem de chira benh cho con ngudi. '' Qua ddng, leo len mdt doan ntfa se tdi dfnh niii, ngudi xua ggi Id Tan cdt cd, la noi diing de cdm cd. 116
Dd'i dien vdi Ddng Sang thd Phat la Ddng Td'i ndm trong tay ngai phfa Bdc. Ddng Tdi thd bd Chiia Thugng Ngan, dugc coi nhu Dien Mdu. Ddng td'i cao va rdng han nhilu so vdi Ddng Sang, cd the chira dugc ngan ngudi, gdm 7 hang, ggi Id 7 "budng", mdi hang cdu tao khac nhau, cd hang d tren cao, cd hang d sau hon 4 met, cd hang nin bdng phdng, cd hang nin trung xud'ng nhu ldng chao, nhung diu thdng nhau theo cdc ngach da. Trdn ddng bdng phdng, cd hang trdn cao so vdi nin ddng hon chuc met. Nhilu chd nhu da trong ddng chay nhu tdm rem hoac nhu cac bd Ilia treo. Xung quanh cac thanh hang diu Id nhu da dep. Hang giira rdng nhdt thd ba Chiia Thugng Ngan, tugng bang da dugc son son thep vang. Trong Hang Td'i lai cd rat nhilu nhu da tao nen nhilu hinh dang la. Day la d thud'c Thanh, Tien nir ddn chao, Tien nir dang chdi tdc, Tien nir dang ndm chai, ban cd ciia De Thfch, kho vang. kit bac, kia la Tien dang giuc trau cay rudng, cd bd. cd thira rugng. cd chd tat nudc, cd ao beo nudc trong den day va ca dan lgn beo trdn dang ndm. Mdt chd nhii da chdy dai tir tren cao xud'ng nin ddng thdng tdp nhu nhimg day dan. Neu chi cdn cam mdt hdn dd nhd gd vao "nhung day dan" dd la nhung am thanh phat ra du bdy not nhac, gd liln mdt mach, nhip tay nang nhe se nhu nghe dugc mdt bdn nhac hod tdu du duong... Nudc nhd tir nhiing nhu da diu dan, thdnh thdt quanh nam hgp thanh nhiing am thanh diu em. Trong ddng cdn cd ldi ICMI trdi va dudng xudng am phii. Vi vay, trong dan gian cdn cd cau: 117
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Trudng Yen thii dia hm danh thdng, Bdi Dinh cao phong hien thgch am. " Ngugc ddng lich sii. noi day la mdt trong nhirng hau cii ciia nhd Trdn trong cudc khang chien chdng quan Nguyen - Mdng d the ky XIII. Den the ky XVI, tudng nha Mac la Biii Van Khue da lap doanh trai d mii Bai Dfnh de chdng lai trilu nhd Le. Sang theky XVIII, mdt tudng ciia nghTa quan Tay Son da lam ll te cd d mii Bai Dinh de ciing dai quan tren phdng tuyen Tam Diep xudt quan ra Thang Long tieu diet quan Thanh, lam nen dai thdng miia xuan nam Ky Dau. Thdi ky Cach mang thdng 8 nam 1945, niii chua Bai Dfnh Id noi hoat ddng bi mat cua cac chien sy Cdng sdn. Nam 1943, dng Trdn Tir Binh Id Uy vien Chap hanh Dang Cdng san Viet Nam xir Bdc Ky phu trach chien khu each mang Quynh Luu da diin thuyet tuyen truyln each mang trong cudc mil tinh cua nhan dan nhan ngay miing 6 thang gieng hdi chiia Bai Dfnh. Nam sau, 1944 cung vao ngay hdi chiia Bdi Dfnh, ba Nguyin Thi Hung la can bd Xii uy Bdc Ky, Uy vien Ban can su Ddng tinh Ninh Binh ciing vl day de diin thuyet keu ggi nhan dan tham gia Viet Minh danh dudi Nhat, Phdp. Trong thdi ky khdng chien chdng thuc dan Phap va thdi gian danh My, mii chiia Bai Dinh Iai la noi d va Idm viec ciia cdng an, bd ddi. Ban tdn giao van khu uy, Uy ban lien lac nhung ngudi Cdng gido khang chien yeu nudc lien khu KI, Hdi Phat giao ciiu qud'c, Ndng dan ciru qud'c tinh Ninh Binh. Noi day cung dimg lam kho vu khf, 118
kho quan luong, benh vien, trudng hgc trong thdi ky khang chien chd'ng Phdp, chd'ng My. Nd rat an toan, khdng bom dan ndo cd the tan phd dugc. Hang ddng Niii Bdi Dfnh da dm dp che chd, bdo ve cho con ngudi tranh bom dan cua ke thii xam lugc. Chfnh vi the, ngay 18 thang 6 nam 1997, Bd Van hoa Thdng tin da ra Quyet dinh sd 1543, cap bdng "Di tich Lich sic - Vdn hod nui chiia Bdi Dinh " thudc khu can cur each mang Quynh Luu. ''t.i -:t\ •-.: f/.O'^'. •. 'Hi''
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CHUATHANHSON Chiia Thanh Son d Iimg chimg mii Meo Cao (vi cac vach mii d day dung dung, cd vet Idi ldm keo dai tir tren xud'ng nhu meo cao) thudc xa Gia Van, huyen Gia Viln. Ngudi dan dia phuong edn ke Iai mdt cau chuyen kha ly thii. Trudc day, ngdi chiia thd Phat d trong lang, vd tinh bi chdy. Tu nhien cd mdt cgng than bay len trdi va lugn vdng veo roi vao mdt vach da d niii Meo Cao. Chd dd cay cdi ram rap, nin ddt chan mii nhd ra. Ngudi ta vach cay thdy cgng than roi d vach mii cd do cao khoang 40m so vdi chan mii. Do dilu ky la dd, hg chat cay, leo len thi thay mdt ddng dep, nin bdng phdng. rdng khoang 4 - 5 gian nha, cao khodng 15m. The la hg lap chiia thd Phat d trong ddng ngay tir dd. Hg da bien ddng lam chiia. "Ngdi chiia " cd dang hinh mdt nha vdm dugc xay cac be tii tren cao xud'ng thdp, dat cac tugng Phat son son thep vdng long Idy, uy nghiem nhan tir. Dilu dac biet d "chiia " nay la tren trdn vd cac vach ddng khdng hi cd mdt nhu da ndo vd vach da khdng nhan Iy, ma xii xi nhu tao each am, lai cd tirng mdng da mau khac nhau: dd, xanh, vang, tim, trdng, den, ... dil bay sdc cau vdng. Cd chd mau sdc dan xen, cd chd mau sdc tach rieng ra tirng mdng. Nhilu gam mau rat hoan hdo. Nhung hoa sy de'n day da bdng hoang trudc nhirng mdng mau tu nhien nhu the. Nhiing mang mau da nay da cd tir rat lau nhung chua hi phai nhat. Dd chinh Id hang "Bdy sdc cdu vdng " cua tao hod da ban 120
tang rieng cho noi day. Rat hiem hang ddng ndo cd mau sdc nhu the! Dilu ddc ddo nua d chiia la thanh hang ben phai theo hudng vdo, d lung chirng cd mdt dudng ranh, cira nhd bdng mieng thiing an sau vao ldng nui. Tu cira nay, mdt nam chi cd mdt ngay, khdng rd nudc tir dau dd vl, chay vao ddng, ggi la nudc rua chiia. Nudc dd vl da ldm cho nin ddng sach bong khdng cdn dat cat bam vao vd da't da trdi theo da bdi ddp them cho manh ddt dudi chan niii rdng ra den gdn 3 sao. Ben sudn mii va tren nin dat dd hien cdn nhirng cay dai, cay sung, cay gao to, ... da sd'ng rdt nhilu nam dl bao phu cho chiia them xanh tuai, dep de diing nhu ten ggi "Chita mii xanh ". Gdn chiia Thanh Son, d dudi chan mii cd hang Odn. Ggi la hang Oan, vi trong hang cd ddng nudc trong, chdy thdng ra den tan sdng Day, tuang truyln, vao dip ll chiia, dan dia phuang lam oan ciing Phat, thi phai Idy nudc d hang thdi xdi thi oan mdi tham va deo. Cdch hang Oan mdt doan, cdn cd hang Canh. Tuang truyln, cac Hd Phap thudng lui tdi day canh giir bao ve Phat. Hang Canh thdp nhung cd nhilu nhii dd dep. Trong hang tiim an mdt thi gidi nhu da vdi nhilu dang hinh ngoan muc. Nhu da ddng nghTa vdi su cd tich, tTnh tai, nhung thu phuc hdn ngudi, khien nd cung cd hdn cung bay bdng nhu hdn ngudi cdt len tieng ndi rieng cua minh. Gdn nhu d day cdn giiir nguyen nhirng cai hiiu hinh, trinh nguy(:n ciia da nhu chdi xanh, mdu biec miia xuan. 121
'' Trong hang cung cd Idi len trdi va ldi xud'ng am phil. Dudng xudng am phu sau, nghe vang vdng nhu cd tieng dan thanh thdt do nudc tir cac nhu da diu dan nhd rai, tao nen bdn nhac ngdn ddi khdng bao gid diit. Hang da hinh thanh hai nga am duang ddi dai. Dd la dilu tuyet dieu cua tao hod. Canh tri thien nhien d day that ky vT, mdi budc ta di la mdt birc tranh son ky, thuy tii cua nai thd Phat.
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Mdt ldng thudc xa Gia Phong, huyen Gia Viln cd mdt trai niii d phfa bdc toa lac giira cdnh ddng, ten Id nui Vd, cdn ggi la mii Con Meo, nen ggi la Ldi Son. "ldi" la mdt, "scm " Id mii. Mdt nggn mii duy nhdt ciia lang, nen lang mang ten Ldi Son. Lang Ldi Son cd mdt ngdi chiia cd, ngdi chua dd cung mang ten lang, ggi la chiia Ldi San, ten chit la An Trach, ndm d phfa tay bdc Idng. ^'" ' ' ' ' Chiia ndm trong khu ddt rdng hon 3 mdu, quay hudng tay - tay bdc. Phfa trudc chiia la Tam Quan, hai ben Tam Quan cd cac cay da, cay dl cd thu tod bdng mat. Di vdo chiia, ben trai sau cay da la giing da hinh bat gidc, mdi canh 2,3m. Gieng dd nay nudc trong xanh, sau, khdng ai dugc rira, chi de tao ra am duang can bdng trong chiia. Di qua san gach Id tdi Tiln dudng 5 gian (dai 11,5m, rdng 5,45m, cao 5,8m), kien tnic theo kilu chdng diem hai tang mai, gdm cd 6 vi keo lam bdng gd lim, hai ddu hdi xay vft kfn cdn phfa trudc va sau de trdng. Cac hang cdt quan d trudc va sau bdng da 'voidng, hai hang cdt cai bdng gd lim, cao 4,08m. Vi keo lam theo kieu chdng giudng, cham khdc thdng, mai, tnic, ciic. Di qua Tien dudng la den san gach cd chilu rdng 2.4m. Qua san gach la Trung dudng (ddi 11,5m, rdng 5.66m. cao 4,17m). Tiln dudng va Trung dudng diu xay dung mai kep hai ldp, cd tdc dung nang do cao cua 123
mai chiia len. Trong Trung dudng, xa bay dugc cham khdc hoa la, gian giua cd cira vdng va treo 4 biirc dai tu son son thip vang, dat 2 tugng Hd Phap cao to. Hai ben tugng Hd Phap, ben phdi la tugng Diic Thanh Hiin, ben trai la tugng Diic Ong. Ndi liln vdi Trung dudng la Hau cung 2 gian, xay cdc be tir tren cao xud'ng thdp dat cac tugng Phat. Phfa phdi Hau cung dung ta'm bia da cd nien hieu Hoang Dinh thii' 12 (1611) xay lien vao tudng ghi cdng dure va ten tudi nhirng ngudi ciing tiln tu sira chiia. Nhu the kiln true ciia chiia theo kieu tiln "nhd't", hau "dinh " (Ddu tien la chur "nhd't", sau dd la chii "dinh " (Hdn tu)). ,,,,„;. Phfa sau chiia la Nhd thd Td d ben phdi. Chiia Ldi Son thd Phat, cdn thd them Hai Ba Trung va ba bdi vi thd 3 dung tudng thdi vua Hiing. ,, Khdng nhimg the, chiia cdn gdn liln vdi lich sir each mang trong khu can cir each mang Quynh Luu. Nhan ngay Qud'c tl lao ddng (01-5-1931) cd Ddng da dugc cdc chien sy each mang treo d cay da trudc cira chiia. Thang 6 nam 1931, tai chiia Ldi Son da hodn thdnh la don xin khdt thue ciia nhan dan giri len huyen, hang tram ngudi dan da den chiia ky ten vdng trdn vao Id don. Nam 1943, chiia Iai la noi md ldp hudn luyen quan sir, chfnh tri ngdn ngdy cho cdc co sd each mang trong huyen Gia Viln de chudn bi cho tdng khdi nghTa. Ngay 19-8-1945, qudn chiing each mang va trung ddi gidi phdng quan da tap trung tai chiia Ldi San de di cudp 124
chfnh quyln d huyen Gia Viln. Chfnh vl the, chiia da dugc Nha nudc cap Bdng cdng nhan la Di tfch Lich sir Van hod. Bdng cdng nhan dugc ky ngdy 31-01-1994. Hang nam, trudc day vd hien nay, cir din ngdy 14 thang 2 (am lich) chiia Ldi San td chiic ll hdi trong 3 ngdy, 3 dem. Ngdy 15 thdng 2 la ngay te Xuan. Phdn ll, td chiic rudc kieu dat cd man de din chiia thi, sau dd mdi den te d chiia.
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Chua Lac Khoai d ben sudn niii Bang thudc thdn Lac Khoai xa Gia Lac, huyen Gia Viln. Ggi la niii Bang vi tir phfa ddng nhin vl, vdch mii dung diing phdng nhu cdi bang trong ldp hgc. Chiia toa lac d phia ben kia sudn niii cd hinh chiec bang, theo hudng tay. Trudc day, chi cd mdt ngdi chua xay dung ben sudn mii, cd do cao so vdi chan mii khoang 50 m, ggi la chiia Thugng. Sudn mii d day hdm vdo, tao thanh mdt nin da rat rdng, tuang dd'i phdng, nen nhan dan xay dung ngdi chiia tren dd. Hdm niii nhu dm ggn lay ngdi chiia. Ba mat bdc, nam, ddng diu la niii chdn cao vdi. Nhu the, chiia khdng ndm trong ddng nhung dugc niii bao bgc, xay dung bl the ngay tren sudn niii cao. Cung rat hiem cd ngdi chua nao vira d tren cao lai vira cd the niii nhu vay. Sau dd mdt thdi gian, (khodng 40 nam), nhan dan mdi xay dung them mdt ngdi chiia niia d dudi chan niii ggi la chiia Ha. Phia trudc chiia Id cdnh ddng chiem trung, sau chua la vach mii, dd la mdt the dat "tiin thuy hdu scm " tuyet dep, tao ra am duong dd'i dai hoan hdo. Gdn day, nhan dan mdi xay dung them Nha Td 7 gian cao rdng each hdi chiia Ha vl phfa nam khoang 8m, d dudi chan mii, theo hudng tay nam. 126
Chiia Ha d dudi chan mii kiln tnic theo kieu chir "dinh" (Han tu), ten chir Id "Hung Khdnh tu", quay hudng tay nam. Tiln dudng 3 gian, vl keo lam theo kieu me cudn, hai tang mai, cd tac dung nang dg cao ciia chiia len. Hien cua tiln dudng dung 2 cdt da voidng, mat tiln cham khdc cau dd'i bdng chii Han. Thugng dien 1 gian dat cac tugng Phat tir tren cao xud'ng thap nhu cac ngdi chiia khac. Diing d dudi san chiia Ha, nhin len mii, hai phfa bdc nam thay cd hai khdi da nhd cao nhu 2 cdt ddng tru ldn, d giiia la cac cay dai thu la canh xanh tuoi tod ra che khudt khoang trdng, ddng sau, tren cao chfnh la chiia Thugng. Nhu the, diing d dudi san se khdng nhin thdy chiia Thugng. Phfa tay chiia Ha la ldi len chiia Thugng. Phdi men theo sudn mii, budc qua 99 bac da mdi tdi chiia Thugng. Neu tfnh tir chan niii len do cao khodng 25 m, di dugc nira dudng se thay mdt tdm bia dung d ben trdi. Bia dugc lam d nam At Miii, nien hieu Thanh Thai thii 8 (1895) ghi lich sir ngdi chiia va cdng diic nhiing ngudi ciing tien tu sira chiia. Tdi chiia Thugng se gap mdt san chiia dai nhung hep, cd tudng hoa va tdc mdn xay chdn phia trudc. Chiia Thugng cung kien tnic theo kieu chii "dinh " (Han tu), nhung cao rdng hon chiia Ha. Tiln dudng 5 gian, Thugng dien 2 gian, vi keo lam theo kieu thugng giudng ha ke. Cac cdt hien va mdt sd cdt d trong chiia lam bdng da hinh tru vudng. Rieng cac cdt da d hien chiia mat tiln diu cham khdc cac cau dd'i chii Han ca nggi Phat va ca 127
nggi phong canh chua. 6 Tien dudng va Thugng dien cung dat cdc tugng Phat nhu cac ngdi chiia khac, chi khdng cd tugng Hd Phap. Neu ta dumg d san chiia Thugng nhin xud'ng se tha'y mdt canh ddng liia meng mdng vd cam nhan dugc mdt khdng khf trong lanh, yen tTnh, tha mdng. Vi vay, van bia d chiia da md td "Nai ddy la danh thdng bdc nhd't vung dgng Hoa Lu". Phfa bdc hien chiia Thugng treo mdt qua chudng cao 0,8m, dudng kinh mieng 0,5m. Qua hien ve phia bdc la ldi len dinh niii. Dudng len dinh mii dl di, den gan dinh mii nhin xung quanh se thay lang mac, rudng ddng, sdng mii d noi day Canh tri thien nhien d chiia Lac Khoai that ky thu vdi gid mii, hoa ngan, chim ca, cay la va bau trdi cao xanh vdi vgi, dua ta di het ngac nhien nay den ngac nhien khac nai cua Phat.
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Chiia Ky Lan cdn ggi la chiia Hang d trong hang niii Ky Lan. Mdt trdi niii ldn d phfa tay nam xa Gia Phuong, huyen Gia Viln cd hinh gid'ng nhu mgt con ky lan nen ggi la mii Ky Lan. Chiia ndm trong ddng d phfa ddu "con ky ldn dd " dd vl phfa ddng nam cua mii. Niii Ky Lan gdn liln vdi truyln thuyet vl Dinh Bd LTnh. Tuong truyln, d lung chirng niii cd mdt khoanh dat tuang dd'i bdng phdng, giira la md ddt ndi len, ngudi dan cho dd la md td phat tfch ciia Dinh Bd LTnh, nen dng trd thanh Vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Ddng Ky Lan cd do cao so vdi chan mii gdn 40m. Day la ddng dai khoang 100m, cd chd cao 30m. rdng 40m. la ddng thdng xuyen qua niii. Trong ddng cd nhilu nhu da dep, cd ldi len trdi, cd ldi xud'ng "dm plui", bdi lir giira ddng cd khoang trdng cao tun hiit len den dinh niii Id thien, Iai cd mdt hd sau tham den chan mii, tao ra am duang ddi dai, can bdng. Cd le, chfnh vi vay ngudi xua da bien ddng thanh chiia. Trong "chiia" cd xay be va dat cac tugng Phat. Hudng ciia ddng la ddng nam, thdng ra cira sau la hudng tay bdc. Mud'n len tham "chiia" phai budc qua 109 bac. Trong thdi ky chd'ng My ciiu nudc. "ngdi chiia" nay da dugc Nha nudc sit dung lam Dai phat tfn 2 (phat ihanh sang Lao va Cam pu chia). Nha nude da xay dung trong ddng nhung day nha be tdng kien cd, mai bdng, 129
chia thanh nhilu ngan de dat cac may mdc phdt thanh. Bom dan giac My khdng thi phd huy dugc Dai phat tfn dd vi nd ndm trong rudt mii. Sau giai phdng miin Nam, hoa binh lap Iai, Dai phdt tfn d trong ddng dugc chuyin di noi khac, mai den nam 1997, nhan dan dia phuong mdi dugc sir dung ddng dl lap lai chiia. Hien nay cdc d nhd mdi bdng kien cd trong ddng vdn giir nguyen, nhung tirng phdng da xay be dat cac tugng Phat. Gian ddu tien gdn cira hang la nha Td. cd treo chudng. Tiep dd la gian rdng Idn dat tugng Thfch Ca bdng da cao han 2m, cac gian sau diu dat tugng thd Phat. May chuc met gdn cira hau hep han nen khdng xay nha, cdn nguyen cac nhu da cd hinh 5 con voi chdu va tugng 18 vi La Han bdng da da dugc xay be be tdng viing chai lam tang ve uy nghiem cho ngdi chiia. Ngudi xua da 'vinh canh niii vd chiia Ky Lan nhu sau:
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Ky Lan tien cdnh chfnh la day Phat tfch dang quy d chd'n nay. Ta cd chiia tien trong ddng da. Hiin kia Lang td giu'a rirng cay Trudc cira tir bi rirng vdi niii Tren toa cue lac gid cimg may Khen cho tao hod day cdng xep Ddu cdnh Bdng lai ciing the nay.
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CHUA NON NUCfC Niii Non Nudc d phfa Ddng Bdc thanh phd Ninh Binh, cao gdn 70m, dfnh tuomg ddi bdng phdng. phia trudc nhd cao hon phia sau, diing lang le soi minh ben bd sdng Day. tao nen ve huyin dieu son thuy him tinh. Phfa Bdc va phfa Ddng chan mii, ludi sdng da liem mdn quanh bao ggt, khoet sau hdm vao, lam cho the niii mud'n nhd ra dl soi trgn minh tren lam guong sdng Day. Vi vay, vdo thdi Ly. ddi vua Ly Nhan Tdng. nam Quang Him thiir 7. Tan Miii (1091) cd dung d tren dinh niii mdt thap thd Phat. t
mdt thicdc de'n mdt nhdn, mdt budc tiin them mdt budc, mot tdng cao them mot tdng, tdi luc thdp cao sieng sicng, thichgm trdi xanh, td them ve dep cua non sdng, tranh cdng xdy dung ciing tgo hod, thi bgn su sdi tdm thudng ddu cd thi sdnh dugc !". Truong Han Sieu - mdt bac danh sy thdi Trdn da dat ten cho niii Non Nudc la Due Thuy ("Due" la tdm, 'Thuy " la chim trd) - Con chim trd tdm ben sdng nudc bac. Nien hieu Thieu Phong thii 3 (1343), trilu vua Trdn Du Tdng, Truang Han Sieu dang giii chiic Td gidn nghi Dai phu d trilu dinh, do yeu cdu ciia su Trf Nhu da viet bai "Due Thuy son Linh Titlidp ky" (Bdi ky thap Linh Te d niii Due Thuy), cho khdc ben sudn mii vl phfa tay phdi ldi di len mii. Hien nay, bai ky dd vdn cdn. Tren 650 nam da qua. bat luan thdi gian, trai qua bao mua ndng net chir xua khdc tren vach da vdn khdng md, nhu mdt tac pham tao hinh hoan chinh da cud'n hiit nhilu du khach den thudng ngoan va chim say trong cdnh mii sdng tuyet my. Bai ky luu truyln vl cdng viec xay dung thap Linh Te vd ca nggi cdc nha su cd cdng xay dung lai thdp. Ngay nay thap Linh Te khdng cdn. Tir xa xua, ngudi Ninh Binh da xay dung mdt ngdi chiia thd Phat d dudi chan niii Due Thuy vl phia Ddng. Chiia dugc mang ten "San Thuy Tu" (chiia Non Nudc). quay hudng ddng nam, xay bdng dd. mdi cong, dau dao udn lugn nhu nhirng ngdi chiia cd kinh khac. Dilu ddc dao ciia chiia Non Nudc la chiia xay dung sdt 133
chan mii, dua vao cac vdm da, mii va chiia hoa quyen vdi nhau. Phfa ddng bdc chiia lai la ddng sdng Day chay xudi ra bien. Chan niii ben ddng sdng cd ddng Thuy Thdn. Nd'i ra ddng Thuy Thdn Id cay cdu da cong cong xay dung ciing thdi vdi chiia Non Nudc. Gdn dd cdn cd ddng Tam Phii. Mdt thdi gian sau, chiia dugc xay dung lai to rdng hon, vdn dura vdo cac hdm niii d dudi chan mii Due Thuy, quay hudng ddng nam, nhin ra ddng sdng Day, qua Id mdt the ddt dep, "Tiin thuy, hdu son ". Phfa ddng niii, nudc bien hang trieu nam deo ggt lam cho vach da nhan Iy nhu mai va mdn ldm chay sau vao, con ngudi da dura vao nhiing ky cdng tuyet tac dd cua tao hod de xay dung chiia. Va nhu mdt dilu hien nhien nhung ai mudn den tham niii Due Thuy thi diu vao chiia Non Nudc thdp huang ll Phat trudc khi leo len gdn 100 bac da dl den dfnh mii. Canh dep cua mii va khudn vien chiia hoa nhap vdi nhau, gdn bd, tuong hd nhau de lam cho mii Due Thuy cd kfnh, tam linh, trang nghiem va cd hdn hon. Chfnh chiia Non Nudc da bd sung cho cai dep hoan chinh ciia niii Due Thuy. Nam 2005, chiia Non Nude dugc xay dung Iai, lam mdi loan bd tir tugng Phat, Phat dien den nha Td va Phu. Tir hudng nam di vao, kiln tnic ddu tien la Tam quan, qua "nhdt chinh dgo " dd be tdng rdng, ben phai la vudn chiia cd 3 thap md cao 3 tang, ben trai la mdt con rdng ddp bdng be tdng dai 19m, dudi d phia nam, ndm sat Tam quan, dau gd'i len mdt hdn da canh cd dang hinh con voi, chdu vao chiia. 134
Qua ddu rdng re ben trai la san chiia lat gach. Sat bd sdng Day d phfa ddng bdc dugc ke da, xay tudng, dung xien hoa sdt. 6 san chiia cd mdt tugng Phat Ba Quan Am cao 7,1m (cd be) tac bdng da trdng, diing nhin ra sdng Day, tay phdi bdt quyet, tay trdi cam binh nudc Thanh, d Ninh Binh, chi cd chiia Am (xa Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu) va chua Non Nudc mdi cd tugng da trdng cao to nhu the. Trudc tugng cd ban thd, mat ban bdng da trdng va mdt dinh huang ldn ciing bdng da trdng. Sau tugng Phat Ba Quan Am la 4 tugng thay trd Dudng Tang di lay kinh cung bdng da trdng. Tit san gach budc len 4 bac da mdi vao chiia, nin chiia cao hon san gach gdn Im. Chiia quay hudng ddng nam, xay dung theo kieu cd ddng (nhu chiia d Trung Qud'c), cac cdt, xa diu lam bdng be tdng cdt thep, cd do cao tir nin len den dinh gdn 10m. Mac dil xay dung theo kieu Trung Qud'c nhung kiln true cua chiia vdn theo kieu chir "dinh " (Han tu). Tiln dudng 3 gian rdng, cd 3 tdng mdi cong, ngodi hien la 4 cdt da vudng, khdng chdp nd'i, cao gdn 4m, mat cdt phfa trudc cham khdc cac cau ddi bdng chur Han. Trong Tiln dudng dat 2 tugng Hd Phap, tugng Diic Ong va tugng Dire Thanh Hiin. Ndi vdi Tiln dudng la Hau cung 3 gian, cd cira vdng. xay cac be thd tir tren cao xud'ng thdp dat cac tugng Phat nhu cac ngdi chiia khac. Cdc tugng Phat diu dugc lam mdi, tac bang gd, son son thep vang. 135
Nha Td quay hudng ddng bdc, hdi phfa tay bdc sat vdi Tiln dudng chiia, nhin ra sdng Day. gdm 6 gian. Cling cd 5 cdt da vudng to cao ngoai hien. 3 gian giiia dat tugng thd Td, cdc gian hai ben la phdng khach. Phil cua chua cung quay hudng ddng bdc, nhin ra sdng Day, nhung xay dung sdt vao chan mii Due Thuy, lien ngay vdi Hau cung ben phai ciia chiia. Kien tnic cua Phil Id hai tdng mdi cong, gian giua dat tugng thd Tam Toa Thanh Mdu. Sat vach mii d ngoai hien Phii, quay hudng ddng nam la ddng San Trang. Vi chiia Non Nudc lam sat chan niii Due Thuy lai d ben bd sdng Day nen xay dung Phat dien, nha To va Phil dirng liln nhau, cdn dat cua san chiia, vudn chiia Iai dai theo bd sdng Day. Day la chua mdi dugc lam lai nen hoanh trang, dd so va dep hon trudc nhilu. Dd la noi tam linh ma con ngudi cdn tim den, cdu mong cd nhilu phiic lanh, sd'ng cho thanh thdn dao ddi de xay dung que huang ddi mdi di len. Day la mdt qudn the kien tnic cd dan xen, td them mau sdc cho cdnh dep mii Due Thuy, de khdi huang ngdt tod, tiing md, tieng kinh, tieng chudng chiia vang vdng vang xa, hoa nhap vdi tieng chim keu rfu n't, tieng gid thdi mat lanh trong cac lum cay xanh bile xung quanh niii va cd tieng mai cheo khua nudc nhe tren sdng, tieng sdng vd vao cdc md da, vach da ... Tat cd hgp thanh tao nen mdt biic tranh thuy mac Non Nudc hiru tinh ciia cdnh Phat ddy am 136
thanh va sdc mau hai hod giira con ngudi va thien nhien. Rdt it cac ngdi chiia cd dugc dac an dd. Den ll Phat d chiia Non Nudc, du khach se cd dip dgc cac bdi tha chir Han khdc tren cac vach niii ciia cac nha vua va cac tao nhan mac khach ndi tieng nhu: Le Thanh Tdng, Le Hien Tdng, Tu Dire, Truang Han Sieu, Pham Su Manh, Ngd Thi Sy, Ngd Thi Nham, Nguyin Huy Oanh, Ngd Phiic Lam, Pham Van Nghi, Tdn Da, .... Con chim trd khdng Id ay da xam ddy minh va ddi canh nhung bdi tha bat hii. Nhung "vdch gdm " nay da dung giira trdi may Non Nudc bao la cai tinh thdn dan tdc Id thdm cho manh ddt nay mdt nit dep van hod. Chiia Non Nudc da trd thanh mdt danh lam cd tich, ngudi ngudi xa gdn tap nap den II bai, van canh.
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CHUAANAU Chiia A Nau cdn ggi la chiia Seu (VI d dudi chan niii Seu) thudc thdn Dai Nhan. xa Ninh Khdnh, huyen Hoa Lu, nay la xdm Binh Khang, phudng Ninh Khanh, thanh phd Ninh Binh. Day la chiia dugc xay dung tir thdi Trdn. Sau cudc khang ehiln chd'ng quan Nguyen - Mdng ldn thii' nhdt (1258), Vua Trdn Thai Tdng trdn 40 tudi, nhudng ngdi cho con la Thai Tir Hodng, len lam Thai Thugng hoang, vl viing niii Vu Lam tu hdnh, dung Hanh cung Vu Lam. Viing niii Vu Lam ngay xua, nay la thdn Van Lam, xa Ninh Hai, huyen Hoa Lu. Khi d Hdnh cung Vu Lam, Vua Trdn Thai Tdng di thi sat mdt sd noi, den mii Seu, thdy phong canh d day dep, lien cho xay dung chiia A Nau. Tdm bia cao 1,5m, rdng 1,0m cham khdc dphfa tay nam mdt vach niii Seu, cd ten la "Tu tam bdo diin bi" tac vao nam Mau Ngg (chua rd nam nao. cd the phdng doan d the ky XVI) cho bie't dilu dd va ghi rd rdng Nhd vua cdn cap cho chiia rudng phil tu, gdm 160 sao. Chiia A Nau quay hudng ddng, ndm ggn dudi chan mii Seu. Niii Seu den day hdm vao tao thanh mdt khu da't rdng dudi chan niii. Niii nhu dm ggn Idy ngdi chiia. Chiia A Nau, cao rgng. Tiln dudng 5 gian, hien dugc dung bdng nhiing cgt da vudng, ben trong vi keo va cdc cdt cao to diu la gd lim. Nam gian ciia Tiln dudng d phfa trong diu cd 5 cira vdng, phfa tren cira vdng la 5 biirc 13i
dai tu dugc son son thep vang lgng Idy. Gian giira ciia Tiln dudng dat tugng Quan Am bdng gd. Gian ben phai la tugng Dd'c Thdnh Hiin, tiep theo la tugng Hd Phap (Ong ac). Gian ben trai la tugng Dure Ong, tiep theo la tugng Hd Phdp (Ong Thien). Nd'i vdi Tiln dudng la Thugng dien 3 gian, gian ddu dl trdng, gian thii hai cd cira vdng. Gian thiir hai va gian thir ba, xay be tir tren cao xud'ng thdp dat cac tugng Phat nhu cac ngdi chiia khac. Dilu dac biet la d phfa trudc Thugng dien hien cdn treo 2 birc gan vudng, cham khdc chir Han cung dugc son son thep vang. Dd la hai bai tho ciia Vua Trdn Thai Tdng va Vua Trdn Nhan Tdng. Ong Hoang Giap d Vien Han Ndm dich nhu sau: Bai tho ciia Vua Tran Thai Tdng: 'Thdnh cdng trgn ven nhd gom gdp Mudn diCcfc Nam son phdi bgo gan •'• ' Mdt nhdm mdy ldn nay vdn dep ' Tay cdm mdnh nggc sd'ng thdi gian ; Vuat qua trdm luc tinh thdn vicng -' ' Gidnh Idy ngdn ndm khiic khdi hodn Nhdn qud din di nhiiii bi mat Ldng ngay dg thdng td't thanh nhdn ". ' '" Bai tha ciia Vua Trdn Nhan Tdng: "Ba vua liic chit diu vi ddt '" '^ Ndm chic ra di hod bid trdn Khdng Tic hit dcfi cdn thdnh tudng n .; J 139
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Lao qudn rdi kiep chdng khoe qudn Chdn minh di lgi bao tai tiing . Bdn viec ddi sau ciing tdi ldn :,: -, Chi cd thdy ta .xudng cot vicng Ld nhd chdm luyen lgi kien tdm". Ben phdi chiia la 5 gian Nha Td. Ben trai chua la Phii thd Tam Toa Thanh Mdu, gdm 5 gian Tiln dudng va 3 gian Hau cung. cd phdi thd Trdn Trilu. Thdi Trdn. Phat giao phat trien manh, cac vua la'y tu each mdt vi Thien tir ma di tu lam Hod Thugng. Cac Hoang hau, Cong chiia cung di tu lam Ni Cd, cac Vuong cdng di tu lam Tang Chung. Vi vay khi d Hanh Cung Vu Lam, mdt Cdng chiia ddi Trdn la Trdn Nggc Nhat (cdn ggi la Trdn Nggc Mdt) da den chiia A Nau di tu. Trong qua trinh tu hdnh d chiia, Cdng chiia da hudng ddn, khuyen khfch nhan dan trong viing trdng liia. trdng dau nudi tdm, uam to det lua. Chiia A Nau chfnh la noi tu hanh eiia mdt Cdng chiia thdi Trdn trong sud't 16 nam. Khdng nhirng the, chiia A Nau cdn la noi thanh lap Chi bd Dang ddu tien ciia xa (ngdy 02 thang 9 nam 1948). Chiia cung la noi lam viec ciia cdc co quan Huyen uy Gia Khdnh (nay la Hoa Lu) va ciia nganh Buu dien, viln thdng tinh Ninh Binh trong thdi ky khang chien chdng My. 140
Ldn triing tu chua gdn day nhdt Id nam Quy Sim (1913). De'n nam 1953, thijrc dan Phap xam lugc da bdn phd chiia. Hoa binh lap lai, nhan dan mdi tien hanh trimg tu va dai tu lai chiia. Trudc cira chiia cd Tam quan, trudc Tam quan cdn cd gieng nggc. Vudn chiia rdng, cd nhilu cay dai thu, dac biet cd 2 cay dai trdng hai ben Tiln dudng da cd tudi thg hang tram nam. Ngay 12 thang 2 nam 1999 chiia ANau da dugc Nha nudc cap bdng cdng nhan la Di tfch Lich sir Van hod. -!,;ir!
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CHUA PHUC CHINH Chiia cd ten hieu la Phiic Hung Tu ndm tren khudn vien thoang rdng, tTnh lang, dien tfch hon 2 mdu tren phudng Nam Thanh, thdnh phd Ninh Binh. Chiia lay ten mdt thdn ciia xa Ninh Thanh cii la Phiic Chinh dat ten cho chiia. Chiia dugc xay tudng bao quanh, cd cdng vao. khdng xay Tam quan. Chiia quay hudng ddng nam, kiln tnic theo kieu tiln "nhd't", hau "dinh " liln nhau, cd nghTa la phfa trudc la chir "nhdt" liln theo la chir "dinh " (Han tu). Trudc Phat dien la san gach, tiep dd xay binh phong, tudng hoa hai ben, rdi den vudn va hd nudc. Tiln dudng ciia chiia 5 gian rgng, cd hai tang mai phdng, ngoai hien la 6 cgt da vudng, hai ben ddu hdi xay hai cdt ddng tru. Tiln dudng de trdng, khdng dat tugng Phat. Liln vdi Tien dudng Id Trung dudng 5 gian, lam cho Tiln dudng rdng va sau de cac su vao miia Kit ha lam 11 va hgc tap. Hai nha Tiln dudng va Trung dudng cd 4 hdng cdt cai, mdi hang gdm 6 cdt gd lim cao to. O hai hdi phfa trong ciia hai nha diu gdn nhilu bia da nhd ghi ten nhiing ngudi ciing tien tu sira chiia. Rieng Trung dudng hai ben dau hdi, mdi ben dat 5 tugng, ggi la "Thdp Dien Minh Vuang ". O Trung dudng, ben phdi dat tugng Hd Phap (Ong Thien) va tugng Dii'c Ong, ben trai dat tugng Hd Phap (Ong dc) va Dii'c Thanh Hiin. 142
Nd'i vdi Trung dudng la Hau cung 3 gian nhd dgc, gian ddu de trdng, 2 gian sau, xay cdc be tir tren cao xud'ng thdp dat cdc tugng Phat. Trong Hau cung, d cdc gian diu cd cira vdng va cau ddi treo tren cac cdt gd lim. Phil d chiia xay gan vdi Tiln dudng chiia vl phfa bdc (ben phdi), kiln tnic theo kieu tiln "nhdt" hau "dinh " (Hdn tu), cung quay hudng ddng nam nhu chiia, cd 3 tdng mai (hai tdng mdi cong, 1 mdi hien phdng), cdt lam bdng be tdng gid gd. Tiln dudng cua Phii 3 gian dl trdng, Trung dudng ciing 3 gian, liln vdi Tiln dudng, gian gdn hdi ben phai thd Ba Chiia Bdn Tinh, gian gan hdi ben trai thd Ba Chiia Bdn Din. Ndi vdi Trung dudng la Hau cung 3 gian. nha dgc, gian ddu dat tugng thd 5 dinh quan ldn cdn ggi la tugng 5 phuang, gian thu hai de trdng, gian trong ciing chi dat mdt tugng Dire Thanh Mdu ngdi trong ldu. Nha To cua chiia ndm vl phfa nam chiia (phfa ben trai) 2 tdng mai, gdn Hau cung ciia chiia, cung quay hudng ddng nam. Nha Td cung cd kiln true theo kieu chiir "dinh " (Han tu) Tiln dudng 5 gian, Hau cung mdt gian dat tugng Td. Phia trudc Nha Td la san gach, rdi den vudn. Giira vudn dat tren toa sen dung trong hd ban nguyet nhd la 4 tugng da, gdm 3 ngdi Tam The, phfa trudc 3 ngdi Tam The la tugng Di Da. Btin trai (phfa nam) cac tugng dd la nha bia nhd. Ben phdi san gach chiia (phfa bac) cd 5 thap md xay 2 tang. 143
Lui vl phfa bdc vudn chiia cdn cd Ldu Chiia Than Tai kien tnic theo kilu chiir "dinh " quay theo hudng bdc. Ldu Chiia xay nhd. Tiln dudng dat tugmg Chiia, Hau cung cd bai vi Chiia dl trong ngai. Chiia Phiic Chinh la chiia cd, lam Trudng Ha ciia Hdi Phat gido tinh Ninh Binh tir trudc cho den nay. Ha la miia Kit ha mdi nam mdt ldn, trong 3 thang, tir rdm thang tu den rdm thang 7 (am lich), cdc Tang sy diu phai den chiia Phiic Chinh. d hdn trong chiia (ggi la an cu), quy tu ddng ddo de thuc hanh nhiing viec nhu hgc tap, tu dudng vl giao ly nha Phat. Miia Kit ha dugc tfnh la mdt tudi ha. Phai cd 5 tudi ha mdi dugc la su bdc, 10 tudi ha mdi la su thdy (ggi la Dai Diic). Len bac Thugng toa phai cd 45 tudi ddi vd 25 tudi ha. Len bac Hod thugng phai cd 60 tudi ddi va 40 tudi ha. Chfnh vi vay, chiia Phiic Chinh xay dung cac phdng khdch va nhilu gian nha niia de cho su d khi Kit ha. Trong khu chiia cdn cd gieng, be nudc, nha bep, nhd an khd rdng rai. Chiia Phiic Chinh da trd thanh Trudng Ha ciia Tang sy, la noi 11 Phat, cdu phiic lanh, noi giri gdm tam linh ciia con ngudi, cung la noi du ngoan ciia khach thap phuang trong va ngoai nudc.
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CHUA DAU LONG Chiia Dau Long quen ggi la chiia Ddu, d phudng Tan Thanh, thdnh phd Ninh Binh, cd ten ggi Id "Thien Ddu Ngicu Quang" (Sao Nguu, sao Dau chieu sdng). Chiia lai toa lac tren khu ddt rdng gdn 2 mdu cd hinh con rdng, cho nen "Ddu Long" cd nghTa la con Rdng dugc sao Ngim, sao Dau chieu sdng. Chua quay hudng tay nam. Day la ngdi chiia cd. d thdi Trdn, Trdn Qud'c Tdng la con thii 3 ciia Trdn Hung Dao da tu hanh d chiia. Chiia xay Tam quan va tudng bao quanh. Tit hudng tay nam di vdo ddu tien la Tam quan, tdng tren treo chudng, hai ben Tam quan xay hai cdt ddng tru. Qua Tam quan den san gach, xay mdt be rdng, trong dap mdt con rdng qudn, ddu chdu vao chua. the hien ten hieu ciia chiia la "Ddu Long". Phfa nam ciia be la Nha bia (4 gian nhd) dung bdng cac cdt da vudng, mai hai tang, ben trong dat 6 bia da ghi lich sir va cdng diic nhiing ngudi cd cdng Cling tien tu sira chiia. Lui vl phfa nam Nha bia la 4 thap md 3 tang. Tir Nha bia di vl phfa ddng nam, sdt tudng xay mdt hd dai 15m, rdng 8m (chiir nhat vat gdc) dung non bd d trong. cd cdu nhd di vao, tren non bd la mdt tugng Phat Ba Quan Am cao 2m ddp bdng xi mang trdng. Di tiep qua san gach rdng, cd nhilu cay canh, la den chiia chfnh. 145
Trudc chiia cd mdt dinh huong da to (cao den 1.6 m cd be). Tiep dd budc len 5 bac (cao Im) la mdt kiln tnic kieu chd'ng diem, 3 tang mai cong, gdm 16 cdt be tdng. ben trong de mdt sap da hinh chii nhat (dai 1,3m, rdng 1,0m, cao 0,8m), xung quanh cham ndi "hccfng long triiu nguyet". Sau sap da la mdt tugng Di Da ngdi tren toa sen, bdng da xanh, cao 3m. Liln dd la Tiln dudng ciia chiia. Chiia cd kiln tnic theo kieu chii' "dinh " (Han tu). Tiln dudng cd 5 gian rdng va nira gian d hai dau hdi niira. Nira gian d ddu hdi phfa nam, dat tugng Hd Phap (Ong dc). nira gian d ddu hdi phfa bdc, dat tugng Hd Phap (Ong Thien). Trong Tiln dudng cd 3 cua vdng va treo 5 buc dai tu son son thep vang. Gian d phfa nam (ben phai) thd tugng Dii'c Thanh Hiin, gian d phfa bdc (ben trai) thd tugng Dire Ong. Nd'i vdi Tiln dudng la Hau cung 3 gian, cung cd 3 cira vdng va tren 3 cira vdng treo 3 biic dai tu nira. Gian ddu ciia Hau cung de trdng, hai gian sau xay cdc be thd tir tren cao xudng tha'p dat cac tugng Phat. Vi chiia mdi dugc xay dung lai, nen cac cdt diu lam bdng be tdng gid gd, vi, keo, cdnh cira bdng gd lim. Mdt dilu rat dac biet d chiia Dau Long la chiia khdng chi thd Phat, ma edn thd eiing 9 nhan vat lich sir niia. Mdt cau ddi d chiia da ndi len dilu dd: Phien am: Cim vi anh linh phd qudc thdi Thien thu hucmg hod do ddn an. 146
(Chin vi than thieng giiip nudc thai binh Ngan nam huong khdi dg yen dan). Chfnh vi vay. sat vdi Hau cung chiia (ben phai) cd be thd dat long cung, thd "Cd de nhdt nhd Trdn ". cdn sat vdi Hau cung chiia (ben trai) cd be thd dat long cung thd "Cd de nhi nhd Trdn ". Gian ben phai cung sat vdi Hau cung chiia. cd ldu thd. dat thd tugng Trdn Hung Dao ngdi trong ngai. Gian ben trai cung sat vdi Hau cung chiia. cd ldu thd. dat thd tugng Trdn Qud'c Tang (Hung Nhugng Dai Vuang) ngdi trong ngai. 6 phfa bdc ngang vdi Hau cung chiia la mdt day nha quay hudng nam. gdm hai nha nd'i nhau. nha ddu 3 gian la nha thd Chan Linh, thd tugng Dia Tang Bd Tat dirng. cao 2 m. Nha tiep dd 3 gian. ben trong cd ddng San Trang. Chiia cdn cd Nha To d phfa sau Hau cung, lui vl phfa nam quay hudng tay nam, nin thdp han nin chiia. gdm 5 gian, 3 gian giira thd tugng To. hai gian hai ben la phdng khach. Phil d chiia cung d phfa sau Hau cung ndm d phfa bac. quay hudng lay nam, nin cung thap hon nin chiia, kiln true theo kieu tiln "nhd't", hau "dinh" liln nhau. Tiln dudng 3 gian dl huong an, tren dat tugng thd "Ngii vi Tdn Ong " (Tugng 5 phuong). Trung dudng 3 gian dl trdng. Hau cung mdt gian, dat tugng thd "Tam Tod Thdnh Mdu ". 147
Ngoai hai tugng thd Id Trdn Hung Dao va Hung Nhugng Dai Vuang ra, trong chua cdn cd bat huong thd 7 nhan vat lich sir nua, 9 ngudi dugc thd d chiia gdm: 1- Diic Thanh Ca: Cdn cd ten ggi khac la Quy Minh - vi tudng thdi Hung Vuang thii 18. ;,,,[.- 2- Vua Le Dai Hanh: Ngudi ke tuc su nghiep Vua Dinh Tien Hoang, md ra mdt trilu dai mdi: Trieu Tiln Le. 3- Nguyin Bac: Ngudi cd cdng ciing Dinh Bd LTnh dep loan 12 sii quan, trd thanh "Tic tru triiu Dinh ", lam Dinh Qud'c Cdng (tuong duang nhu Thu tudng bay gid). 4- Trdn Hung Dao: La mdt vi tudng tai ba, noi tieng cua trilu dinh nha Tran, dugc phong la "Tiit chi Hung Dgo Dgi Vuang", nhan dan tdn dng la bac Thanh. 5- Nguyen Tir Qud'c Mdu: La than mdu cua Hung Nhugng Vuong Trdn Qud'c Tang, dugc nhan dan tdn la Thanh Mdu. 6- Tran Qud'c Tang: Con thii' 3 cua Trdn Hung Dao, la mdt vi tudng tai, cd cdng ldn trong cudc khang ehiln chd'ng quan Nguyen - Mdng lan thir 2 (1258) va ldn thii 3 (1288). Ong cung Id ngudi xudt gia tu hanh d chiia Ddu Long. 7- Truong Han Sieu: Ngudi ldng Phuc Am, xa Ninh Thanh trudc day, nay thugc thi xa Ninh Binh, lam mdn khach cua Trdn Hung Dao, sau trd thanh quan Hanh Khien va Tham tri chfnh sir (Tuong duang nhu chiic Thugng thu), ddng thdi la tac gia cua bdi "Phu sdng Bgch Ddng" ndi tieng. 148
8- Phd Hd Dai Vuong: Chua rd sd'ng d thdi nao, nhung theo truyln thuyet la ngudi cd cdng giiip dan, giiip nudc. 9- Thanh Hodng: Chua rd ten hieu va cdng lao ciia Thanh Hoang. Chiia Dau Long cdn luu giir dugc mdt sd bia cd, tang da mdi guam. Tuong truyln, dd la tang da Trdn Qud'c Tang va quan sy ciia dng da tirng sir dung de mai guam d thdi ky khang chien chd'ng quan Nguyen Mdng (The ky Xlll). Phfa nam chiia cdn cd mdt day nhd 2 tdng, mdi tdng 5 phdng, quay hudng bdc (ndm ngodi khu vuc tudng bao) la noi d vd lam viec cua su. Chiia Dau Long la noi tu hanh ciia Trdn Qud'c Tdng, lai thd ciing nhilu nhan vat lich sir, nen nam 1994, da dugc Nha nudc cdng nhan la Di tfch Lich sir - Van hod.
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CHUA CH HUYEN YEN KHANH
CHUA TAN YEN
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Chiia cung ggi la Tien Yen, Idy ten mdt thdn ciia xa Khanh Lgi, huyen Yen Khdnh dat ten cho chiia. Ten hieu cua chiia la "Kim Dong Tu". "Kim Dong" la nhd den dng Phiing Kim, ngudi dia phuong Iiic nhd d chiia, ldn len da cimg Trieu Quang Phuc, tuc Trieu Viet Vuong (549-570) danh dudi quan Luang (Trung Qud'c) xam lugc nudc ta (nam 550). Tneu Quang Phuc, sinh ngay 10-3-485, la ngu dan Bdc qud'c chay loan sang Viet Nam luu lac den xa Ndi Phat, huyen Chu Dien, phii Tam Dd'i, dao Son Tay. Nam 541, dng theo cha tham gia cudc khdi nghTa do Ly Bdn (Ly Nam De') lanh dao. Thdy nha Luong xam lugc, Triiiu Quang Phuc di tim cdc tudng gidi de ddnh quan Luong. Ong di vao dat Tan An (sau ddi la Tien Yen) thugc xa Khanh Lgi tim nhan tai. Din mdt ngdi chiia d Tan An khi dd, thay Phiing Kim tai trf thdng minh da dua Phiing Kim di danh quan Luang. Phung Kim la con ciia dng Phiing Due. Phiing Due hi ngudi huyen Tii' Ky, phii Hdng Chau, dao Hdi Duong lam nghe thudc chira benh ciiu ngudi, di day di dd. den Tan An. tinh nguyen d ngdi chiia thd Phat va lam thudc. Ong va ba Nguyin Thi Dung sinh ra Phiing Kim nam 493 tai chiia. Phiing Kim ldn len dugc coi la than ddng. Nam 15 tudi. cha me Phiing Kim diu mat. Ba nam sau Phiing Kim di theo Trieu Quang Phuc \ l dam Da Trach (Khoai Chau. Hung Yen) danh dudi quan Luang. Nam 549 Trieu Quang Phuc len ngdi vua, 151
phong Phiing Kim lam Nguyen soai quan su. Den nam 560, Phiing Kim mdt, thg 67 tudi. Trieu Viet Vuang cho lap din thd Phiing Kim tai da't Tan An. gdn ngdi chiia ma Phiing Kim da d trudc day. Dilu dd cd nghia Id, chiia Tan Yen da cd tir trudc nam 541, Id mdt ngdi chiia cd. Mud'n den chiia Tan Yen phai di qua din Tien Yen. Tu hudng tay di vao chua, ben trai la din Tien Yen kiln tnic theo kilu tiln "nhdt" hau "dinh" quay hudng tay. Din Tien Yen thd Trieu Quang Phuc va Phiing Kim. Chiia Tan Yen cung quay hudng tay nhu hudng ciia din, nhung ndm lui vl phia nam, khdng bi din chdn hudng. Tiln dudng 5 gian. hai phfa dau hdi xay hai cdt ddng tru cao, vi, keo, cdt diu bdng gd lim, gian giu'a cd cira vdng, tren cira vdng treo birc dai tu "Bdt Gidp Kim Dong" son son thep vang. Trong Tiln dudng chi dat hai tugng Diic Thanh Hiin vd Diic Ong, khdng cd tugng Hd Phap. Hau cung 3 gian. cung xay cac he tir tren cao xud'ng tha'p, dat cac tugng Phat nhu cac chiia khac. Phil xay liln vdi chiia chfnh gdm 3 gian Tiln dudng, va mdt gian Hau cung theo kieu chiir "dinh ". Hau cung dat tugng thd Tam toa Thanh Mdu va cdc quan. Nha Td 3 gian ciia chiia quay hudng nam. Hang nam, cii den ngay 5 thang 2 (am lich) ll hdi dugc td chiic trong 5 ngay d din va chiia. Din va chiia Tien Yen da dugc Nha nudc cdp bdng cdng nhan la Di tich Lich sir - Van hod ngdy 28-02-1997.
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CHUADAU Chiia Ddu d xdm Chiia, xa Khanh Hod, huyen Yen Khdnh kiln trdc theo kilu "ngi cdng ngogi qudc " (ben ngodi chir "Qudc" ben trong chu "Cdng" (Han tu)) quay hudng tay nam, ndm tren mdt khu dat rdng gan 5.000m-, da dugc Nha nudc cdng nhan Id Di tfch Lich sit - Van hoa. Tir hudng tay nam di vao la Tam quan, qua san gach la tdi Tiln dudng 7 gian cao to, vi, keo Idm theo kilu chdng giudng. Cdc buc me cham khdc long, Iy, quy, phugng (tu linh). Chi cd gian giiia rdng Idp canh cira, cdn 4 gian hai ben xay tudng, 2 gian cudi 2 ddu hdi cd cira nhd. Trong Tiln dudng dat 2 tugng Hd Phap cao to ngdi tren con sdu (cao den hon 3m) trdng rat dd so va tugng Due Ong (ben phai), Ddc Thanh Hiin (ben trai). Ndi vdi Tiln dudng la Trung dudng. Trung dudng la 3 gian nha dgc, gian ddu de trdng, tudng ben phdi gdn 3 bia da, tudng ben trai gdn 2 bia da. ghi cdng ddc nhung ngudi tiln cung xay dung chiia. Hai gian lui vao trong diu cd 2 Cira vdng son son thep vang vd xay cdc be thd tir tren cao xud'ng thdp dat cac tugng Phat. i Qua Trung dudng la tdi Hau cung 3 gian, gian giua rdng, hai gian hai ben hep han. Dilu ddc dao d Hau cung la gian giira cd mdt be da hoa sen thdi Trdn hinh chii nhat, dai hon 3m, rdng 1,5m, cao Im. Day la mdt be da ddc dao, dudng diem la nhiing canh hoa sen to, 153
cham khdc theo kilu ldi ldm. d 3 mat cd nhung dudng trien va hoa van mim mai. Tren be da dat ba pho tugng Tam The. Hdi tudng ben phdi thd tugng Vuong mdu ddi Trdn, hdi tudng ben trdi thd tugng Vuong phu ddi Tran. Trong Hau cung cd cau ddi: Phien am: Trdn gia sdng lap tu dudng. thien tdi, licu truyen dn thdnh dice. Nam qudc danh lam thdng tich, ice nien huang hod hien thdn cdng. (Nha Trdn sang lap chua, ngan nam luu truyln On ciia Thanh. La danh lam thdng tfch nudc Nam, ngdn nam huong hod nhd an Thdn). Hai ben Trung dudng va Hau cung la hai day nhd Gidi Vu, mdi day 5 gian. Mdt dilu dac biet d chiia Ddu la khdng chi thd Phat ma cdn thd Than: "Tiin Phdt hdu Thdn ". Vi vay, qua san gach phia sau Hau cung cdn cd mdt day nha ngang 5 gian, 3 gian giiira thd tugng Bac Hd, gian ben phdi cd bai vi dl trong long ngai, thd Cdng chua Huyin Tu nha Trdn, gian ben trai cung cd bai vi de trong long ngai thd Hoang tir Cau Vuong nhd Trdn. Sau cugc khang chien chd'ng quan Nguyen - Mdng ldn thu nhat (1258), Vua Trdn Thai Tdng trdn 40 tudi, nhudng ngdi cho con Id Thai tu Hoang. len lam Thai Thugng hoang vl viing ndi Vu Lam tu hanh. dung Hanh cung Vu Lam. Viing 154
ndi Vu Lam ngay xua, nay la thdn Van Lam. xa Ninh Hai, huyen Hoa Lu. tinh Ninh Binh. Dd cung la hau cd de chi dao cugc khang chien chdng quan Nguyen Mdng. Thdi Trdn. Phat giao phdt trien manh. Mdt sd Vua da di tu. Vua Trdn Thai Tdng tu hdnh d Hanh cung Vii Lam. Ke dd den Vua Trdn TTianh Tdng lay tu each mdt vi Thien tir ma di tu lam Hod thugng. Nam 1299, Vua Trdn Nhan Tdng cung xudt gia tu hanh. Vua Trdn Nhan Tdng cung hai vi cao tang Phdp Loa va Huyin Quang da dung nen phai True Lam Yen Tir - mgt triet ly va td chdc Phat giao thudn tuy Viet Nam. Dd la True Lam tam td. Cac Hoang hau cung di tu lam Ni cd, cac Vuang cdng di tu lam Tang chdng. Vi vay, khi d Hanh cung Vu Lam, Vua Trdn da cho xay dung chua Ddu dl cho Hoang tir Cau Vuang va Cdng chda Huyin Tu din tu hdnh. cho n(in Hoang tu va Cdng chda mdi dugc thd d chua. Nha Td cua chua ndi liln vdi Tiln dudng vl ben phai (hudng ddng bdc) gdm 5 gian. gian giua rdng thd Td. gian ihu 2 (ben irai) thd Tam toa Thanh Mdu, gian thd 3 (ben phai) thd Ban menh. cdn gian 4 va 5 d hai ddu hdi lii budng Su d. Nhu thi chua Ddu thd Td va thd Tam toa Tlianh Mau d cung mdt day nha. khdng xay phu rieng. Cd 3 nam mdt lan, chua Dau td chdc Ll hdi vao ngay 29 thang 2 (am lich) trong 3 ngay d cac nam Ty, Ngg. Miio. Diiu. 60 nam. chua Ddu mdi td chdc mdt ky Dill hdi trong 5 ngay. Cac xa lan ciin va mgt sd xa d huyen Hoa Lu nhu Ninh Hdi, Ninh Thdng. Ninh Van... 155
diu rudc kieu den chua. Dac biet la xa Ninh Hai dugc dung Hanh cung Vii Lam. cdc vua Trdn, Hoang tu. Cdng chda da d dd, nen rude kieu vd te d chua trong cd ba ngay hdi. Cdn ngay gid dng Hoang (Cau Vuong) Id ngay 15 thdng 1 (am lich), gid ba Chda (Huyin Tu) la ngay 30 thang 2 (am lich). Gid dng Hoang phdi dang banh day, gid bd Chda phai dang oan. Tuong truyln, dng Hoang vd ba Chda tu d chua da de Iai 173 mdu ldc diin cho lang Ddu (tuc la hai thdn Huong Du vd Phuang Du) cay cay de te ll. Lang quy dinh, cu 4 sao rugng phdi lam mdt chile banh day to (bd'n ngudi mdi khieng ndi), mdt sao rudng phai ddng 4 pham oan (mdi ngudi chf ganh dugc 4 phdm oan). Vi vay da cd cau: "Ngdy rdm thdng chgp ni nhau Keo vi chiia Ddu xem bdnh, xem xdi".
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CHUADO
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Cd thi ndi day Id khu chua rdng ldn, dd so nhdt d huyen Yen Khanh thudc xa Khanh Thien. Trudc day chiia cd ten la Dd - lay hg dng td hg Dd la ngudi sang lap ra chua dat ten cho chua: "Dd linh quang tic". Nam 1471, vua Le Thanh Tdng cho ddp de Hdng Ddc chay dai tu cira bien Thdn Phu (nay thudc xa Yen Lam, huyen Yen Md) qua Khanh Nhac len din Phung Cdng (thudc xa Khanh Cudng, huyen Yen Khdnh). De Hdng Due da ngan nudc man ngoai bien dd vao de khu ddt trong de trd thanh rudng ddng cay cay dugc. Din thi ky XVII, dng td hg Dd tii Td'ng Son, tinh Thanh Hod da ra vung ddt trong de ay de chieu dan lap dp. Ong lap ra cdc khu va cdc lang, ddng thdi cho xay dung mdt ngdi chua. Chfnh vi vay ngdi chiia dugc mang hg dng dl ghi nhiin cdng on ciia dng dd'i vdi nhan dan. Vl sau chur "Dd " dugc ggi la "Dg ", nen chiia cd ten la Dg. Vao chua di qua hai cua d phfa bdc. Chua quay hudng tay dugc xay tudng cao bao quanh khu vuc chua. Tir phfa tay di vao, ddu tien la Huong an da cao to. hai ben Huong an da la hai cay den da. Tiep dd la mdt hd nudc nhd hinh trdn, dudng kfnh 6m, d giiia cd ndi gid, tren ndi dung tugng Phat Ba Quan Am Bd Tat dung bdng da, cao 3m, tay phai bdt quylt, tay trai cam binh nudc thanh. Qua mdt san gach mdi den Tam quan, 157
hai cira Vd va Hiiu, sat hdi treo hai khanh da. tang hai cua Tam quan treo chudng. Gdn hdi phfa nam cua Tam quan la khu vudn cd xay 4 thap md, gdm mdt thap 4 tang, mdt thap 1 tang va 2 thdp 3 tdng. Id noi chdn cdt cac nha su da tru tri va mat tai chua. Qua Tam quan den san gach rdng. Gdn san gach vl phfa nam. la nha bia, dung 5 bia da, bia cao rdng hon d giua cham khdc chu qud'c ngur, cdn 4 bia d hai b(2n cham khdc chu Han, ghi cdng ddc cua nhumg ngudi cdng tien tu sua chua. Dd'i dien vdi nhd bia d phfa nam, qua san gach la nha Hau 3 gian, quay hudng nam. cd nhung bia da nhd ghi ten thd nhung ngudi mua hau chua. O nha ky niem nay cdn de mdt trdng ldn tren gia. cd dudng kinh 1,3m. Di tiep vl phfa ddng qua san gach la dl'n chua chfnh kien trdc theo kieu chir "dinh " (Han tu). Tiln dudng 5 gian cao rdng, phfa trudc hai ben hdi la 2 cdt ddng tru cao to. Ngoai hien cua Tiln dudng la 6 cdt da vudng, mat ngoai diu cham khdc cdc cau dd'i bdng chiir Han. Vi, keo va cac cdt ben trong Tiln dudng va Hau cung diu la gd lim. Cac cdt lim cao, dudng kfnh 0,4m. Gian giua cua Tiln dudng cd Cira vdng. ben tren treo bdc cud'n thu dugc son son thep vang, d dudi la mdt Huong an gd dat thd Tam bao ngoai. Cdn 4 gian hai ben diu treo 4 bufc dai tu son son thep vang, ndm tren 4 cira vdng. Trong Tiln dudng d cac gian ben, ben phai thd tugng Dd'c Ong, tiep dd la tugng Hd Phap (dng dc), ben trai dat tugng thd Ddc Thanh Hiln, tiep dd la tugng Hd Phap (dng Thien). Gian cudi d phfa nam cd dat gia chudng treo mdt qua chudng ldn nang gdn mdt tan. Ndi vdi
Tiln dudng la Hau cung 3 gian, gian ddu dl trdng, 2 gian tiep theo xay cac be tir tren cao xud'ng thdp dat thd cac tugng Phat nhu cac ngdi chiia khac. Dilu ddc dao d chua Dg la d phfa sau chua la mdt san gach rdng, xay dung cdc nha khach va nha Td d 3 phfa bdc, nam, ddng diu quay hudng vao san. tao thanh hinh chu "khd'u " (Han tu). Nha khach quay hudng bdc, gdm 13 gian. nha khdch quay hudng nam gdm 9 gian. Nhd Td quay hudng tay 5 gian d giira, tiep dd la 2 gian nha khach nua d hai ben nha To. Nha Td va nha khdch liln nhau mdt day. Nha Td rdt rdng, vi kiln trdc theo kilu hai mdi nha liln nhau cd xay mdng d giua tao cho chilu rdng sau vao trong. Khu nhd khdch d chua Dg cd nhilu gian nhu thi, vi hang nam cd den ngay 5 thang 4 (am lich) la ngay gid To, tdc la gid dng td hg Dd la ngudi sang lap ra chua. Cac tang, ni. Phat tir d cac noi diu vl chua du gid Td se cd chd an nghi. Khu chua Dg cd nhilu cay dai thu. cay an qua xanh td't tao nen mdt quang canh tuoi mat, tTnh mich hien hod nai cua Phat.
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CHUA KIEN OC Chua d thdn Kiln 6 c . xa Khanh Trung, huyen Yen Khdnh, lay ten thdn dat ten cho chiia. Ten hieu cua chiia la "Kiin An Ddng tu". "Kiin "la KienOc, "An" la'yen, "Ddng" Id chiia d giap Ddng. (Thdn Kiln dc cd 3 giap: Nam, Trung, Ddng). Nhu the ten chiia cd nghTa la chiia dugc kiln thilt tren manh dat binh an d giap Ddng. Chua Kien 6c thd Phat nhu cac ngdi chua khac, nhung cd ddc dao rieng Id cdn thd gia tien, thd cac dng td cua cac ddng hg din Kiln 6 c lap lang. Vao thi ky thur XVII, dng td hg Dd tir Td'ng Son, tinh Thanh Hod ra vung dat ven bien Ninh Binh de chieu dan lap dp. Dd Id vung Bdng Hai (Bdng Chau) sau nay. 6ng lap ra 3 khu: Thugng, Trung, Ha va 27 phudng la cdc ldng bay gid. Kien 6 c Id mdt lang cua khu Ha. Luc ddu cd 12 ddng hg den day lap Idng Id: Nguyin, Pham, Trdn, Dd, Dinh, Biii, Dang, Lai, Ddo, Vu, Hoang, Le. Ve sau cdc hg khdc tiip tuc den xay dung lang Kiln 6c nhu ngay nay. Lap lang xong. nhan dan Kien 6c xay dung chiia va thd cac dng td lap lang d ludn chua. Tuong truyln, chua dugc xay dung vao nam Quy Suu (1793). Chua Kien 6c quay hudng ddng nam, toa lac tren khu da't rdng gan 3 mdu, trdng ra canh ddng. Trudc chua cd ao. Khu chua kiln trdc theo kieu chu "mdn " (Han tu). Phia tay la 5 gian nha Td kien true theo kieu chii 160
"dinh ", (Tiln dudng 5 gian, Hau cung 2 gian). Phfa ddng la 7 gian nhd khach, trong dd cd 2 gian danh cho ni d. Chua chfnh kiln true theo kilu chir "dinh" (Han tu), Tiln dudng 5 gian vdi 6 hang cdt, gdm 24 cdt cao bdng gd lim, mai thdng, Igp ngdi vdy. Bd'n cdt trudc cua chua dugc lam bdng cdt da vudng, mdi chilu canh 20 cm. Gian giua d Tiln dudng treo bdc dai tu "Kiin An Ddng tu" son son thep vang la ten hieu chua. Hai gian hai ben cung theo hai burc dai tu. Ba gian nay diu cd cua vdng son son thep vang long Idy. Vi, keo d Tiln dudng ldm theo kieu chdng giudng, cdc con giudng dugc tcio thanh nhiing ddu rdng khd dep. Sau chile bay dugc chiim ndi canh mai lam cho nd nhe nhdng, thanh thoat han. Hau cung bd'n gian, gian ddu de Huong an thd Tam bdo ngoai, til'p dd la gian dl trdng, hai gian sau, xay cdc be tir tren cao xudng thap dat cac tugng Phat. Chua Kiln 6 c cd phu xay dung sau Hau cung chua trdng vao hdi cua Nha Td. Phu 3 gian, xay dung theo kieu cudn vdm khdng cd cdt, gdm hai phdn. phdn trong xay be tir tren cao xud'ng thap, d gian giua, tren cung la Tam toa thanh mdu, hdng thd hai va thd ba thd cdc quan, hang thd tu thd ba dng Hodng. Gian ben trai thd Trdn trilu. gian ben phdi la ddng chda Thugng ngan. Trong thdi ky khdng chien chd'ng Phap. chua Kiln 6 c la mdt triim lien lac cua huyen Yen Khanh. tinh Ninh Binh khi xay dung khu du kfch Khdnh Trung. Khanh Thien - Mdt khu du kfch diin hinh ciia tinh Ninh Binh. Su tru tri d chua khi dd la Thich Thanh Thieu liii la 161
dang vien Cdng sdn, lam tram trudng giao thdng lien lac. Trong chua edn cd hdm bf mat la noi che ddu bd ddi. Din thdi ky chd'ng My cdn nude, ehua Kiln 6c la noi hdi hgp ciia Dang uy. Uy ban nhan dan xa Khanh Trung. Xa Khanh Trung la mdt trong nhumg xa cd nang sudt Ida cao nhdt tinh Ninh Binh, cung la xa dien hinh vl 5 phong trao Van hod cua tinh va miin Bac. Vi vay, ngay 24-6-1969, nguyen cd Thii tudng Pham Van Ddng da vl tham can bd va nhan dan xa Khanh Trung. ddng thdi vl tham chua Kiln 6c. Chua Kiln 6c la di tfch lich sir thdi ky chd'ng Phap va chd'ng My, do dd da dugc Nha nudc cdp bdng cdng nhan la Di tich Lich sir - Van hod ngdy 12-02-1999.
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Chua Phde Nhac d xa Khdnh Nhac, huyen Yen Khanh. Ten la Phde Nhac cd nghTa la "Ndi Phde". Trudc day d xa Khanh Nhac cd mgt gd ddt cao (nai gap nhau giua dudng 10 va de Hdng Due), ngudi xua ggi tugng trung la ndi. Cdn ten chir cua chua la Gia Le, vi theo truyln thuyet d dia phuong, cd mdt cu gia cdm mdt canh le cdm dat xay dung chua. Chua quay hudng tay. Day la mdt ngdi chua cd rdng ldn, dugc xay dung tur thdi Hau Le, ldn trung tu cudi d thdi Nguyin thugc ddi vua Thanh Thai (1889 - 1907), nen mang dam phong each kiln true thdi Nguyin. Ddu tien la Tam quan, tiep la san chua, rdi din Tdc mdn, cd Giing nggc sat Tac mdn. ki din san gach. Ben phdi cua san chua Id vudn rdng, xay 8 thdp md la noi chdn cdt cdc nha su da tru tri va mat tai chua. Chiia kiln trdc theo kieu tiln "nhd't" hau "dinh " (Han tu) (khdng liln nhau), xay tudng bao quanh. Ddu tien la Tiln bdi 5 gian hai tdng mai, cd hang cd lau giua hai tdng mdi nen cao to dd sg (ddi 17m, rdng 9m, cao hon 10m). Phfa trudc va sau Tiln bai la 8 cdt da vudng. Ben trong cd 8 cdt cdi bdng gd lim, mdi cdt cao han 8m. cd dudng kfnh khoang 0,5m. Day Id noi ngdi tung kinh niem Phat ciia cac tfn dd phat tir. Phfa trudc gdn hai ddu hdi Tiln bdi la 2 cdt ddng tru cao. d Tiln bai, 3 giim giua cd cdc canh cua, 2 ddu hdi xay tudng kin, phia sau dl trdng thdng vdi san gach cd chilu dai 163
bdng Tiln bdi, hai ddu bdc nam cua san nd'i vdi 2 hdi Tiln bai cung xay tudng cao vd gdn ludn vao tudng 2 tdm bia da. Tir san gach budc len cao gdn Im la 5 gian Tiln dudng, 2 dT. Hang cdt ngoai cua hien Tiln dudng la nhung cdt da, ben trong, vi keo cdt diu bdng gd lim. Tiln dudng cd mdt tang mai. dat thd tugng Thanh Hien, Due 6ng vd hai vi Hd Phap. Dilu dac biet d Tien dudng Id cd 17 bia hau thdi Nguyin bdng da xanh. trong dd cd 11 bia cham khdc theo ldi ta thuc vl chan dung nhirng ngudi da cd cdng due xay dung chiia. Ndi lien vdi Tiln dudng la Hau cung 4 gian nha dgc. xay cac be ihd tir cao xud'ng thdp tren dat cac tugng Phiit nhu cac ngdi chua khac. Ngoai chiia chfnh cao rdng, phfa sau chua la 8 gian nhad cua cac su. quay hudng tay. Ndi vdi day nha d nay la 12 gian nha d niira quay hudng niim. Tiep vdi 12 gian nha d la 5 gian Nha Td, cung quay hudng nam. Nha Td kiln trdc theo kilu chu '"dinh " (Han tu) hai tang mdi cao rdng, vi, keo lam bdng gd lim, cdn cac cdt trong va ngodi diu la cac cdt da vudng, mat tiln dugc tram khdc cac cau dd'i. Day cung la mdt nha Td rdng Idn, bl the. Khu vuc chua Phde Nhac cd nhilu cay cd thu, canh la vuon cao, xanh mudt lam eho canh quan cua chua ludn tuai xanh, mat me. Chua Phde Nhac da gdn liln vdi ten tudi Nguyen Cdng Trd. 164
Ddu nam Dinh Hgi (1827) Vua Minh Miing sai Nguyin Cdng Tru cdm ddu diio quan hung hau cua trilu dinh tien danh nghTa quan Phan Ba Vanh dang cd thu d can cd Tra Lu (Giao Thuy, Nam Dinh). Ngay 17 thang 2 nam 1827, Nguyin Cdng Trd da tieu diet xong cudc khdi nghTa cua Phan Ba Vanh (Phan Ba Vanh bi bdt va tu tir). Trong thdi gian dang td chdc khan hoang tai Tiln Hai (Thai Binh) vd ngay tu nam 1827, Nguyin Cdng Trd da den miin ddt md sa bdi, sinh Idy, menh mdng d ven bien Ninh Binh dl xem xet trudc khi len quy hoach chi diio khan hoang. Den day, dng gap nhung nghTa quan cua Phan Ba Vanh do that bai da lan trdn tiim bg tren vung ddt hoang sO ven biin dd. Cung vi sg nghTa quan Phan Ba vanh bdo thu ngudi da dan dp cudc khdi nghTa, nen Nguyin Cdng Trd khdng dam xuat hien cdng khai. 6ng phai bf mat cdi trang lam thay tu vd d ludn chua Phde Nhac dl di xem xet rudng bai trong khoang thdi gian 3 nam. Nha su hg Le tru tri d chiia Phde Nhiic da gidp dd Nguyin Cdng Trd rat nhilu. Dieu dd cd nghia la chua Phuc Nhac da gdp phdn gidp Nguyen Cdng Trd dl thanh lap ra huyen Kim Son cua tinh Ninh Binh tu nam 1829. Ngoai ra. chua Phde Nhiic cdn gdn liln vdi nhilu sir kien lich su trong cdng cudc bao ve va xay dung que huang. dat nudc. Chfnh vi vay, ngay 12/1/1999 Bd Van hoa Thdng tin da cdng nhan chua Phde Nhac la di tfch Lich su - Van hod cdp qudc gia. 165
CHUA 6 HUYEN YEN MO
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Ten hieu cua chua la "VTnh Bdo Tu" (VTnh viln bao dap) lay ten cua thdp chdn cdt xd li Dinh Diin va Thugng Tran Trudng Cdng chda (la phu nhan - con gdi ca cua Vua Dinh Tien Hoang) dat ten cho chua. Sau nay, nhan dan quen ggi Id chua Thdp. Chua Thdp d lang Liu (Yen Lieu Ha), xa Khanh Thinh, huyen Yen Md. Dinh Diin cung tudi (924) va ciing que vdi Dinh Bd LTnh (thdn Van Bdng, xa Gia Phuong, huyen Gia Vien). Dinh Diin da cung Nguyin Bac, Trinh Td, Luu Co theo Dinh Bd LTnh dep loan 12 sd quan. Nam 968 Dinh Bg LTnh len ngdi Hodng dl, Dinh Diin, Nguyin Bac, Trinh Td, Luu Co da trd thanh td tru cua nha Dinh. Nam 971 Vua Dinh Tien Hodng phong Dinh Diin giir chuc Ngoai giap, cai qudn cdng viec ben ngoai Kinh dd. Sau khi Vua Dinh Tiln Hoang va con ca Dinh Liln bi Dd Thfch am hai, trilu dinh dua Dinh Toan mdi 6 tudi len lam Vua. Le Hodn dang giur chdc Thap dao tudng quan, Dien tiln chi huy suf ndm quyln hdnh trong trilu chfnh va tu xung la Phd Vuong. Ngd Le Hoan se khdng cd lgi cho Vua cdn nhd, Nguyin Bac va Dinh Diin ban nhau tiln danh Le Hoan. Dinh Diin bd trilu dinh, dem phu nhan la Thugng Tran Trudng vl ldng Yen Lieu Ha (xa Khanh Thinh, huyen Yen Md), xay dung mdt ngdi chua dl tu hanh. Sau dd Cdng chda Thugng Tran Trudng da dugc Kilu Mdc Thiln Su dua len Yen Tir tu hanh. Dinh Diin d 167
lai chiia, tau 17 mdu ddt va 30 mdu rudng xung quanh chua de sdn xudt, nhung thuc chat la xay dung can cd. chieu md binh ma, tfch luy luong thurc dl chd thdi ca ddnh Le Hoan. (Hien nay, noi day vdn luu truyln ten lang Gao (nai de gao nudi quan), lang Liu (noi dung Ilu trd quan), lang Luan (chinh la lang Lgn, ggi chech di, la noi nudi lgn)). Dinh Diin xay dung can cut tai day thi Nguyin Bac xay dung can cur d Thanh Hod. Ngay 20 thang 4 nam 980, Nguyin Bac va Dinh Diin phd'i hgp keo quan, chia lam 2 dao thuy, lue tien danh Le Hoan. Ngay 27 thang 4 nam 980, Le Hoan da cdm quan ra Tay Do (Thanh Hod) danh nhau vdi Dinh Diin vd Nguyin Bac, Dinh Diin bi chet ngay tai tran. Thi the cdn lai cua Dinh Diin da dugc dua vl an tang tai chua. Thugng Tran Trudng cdng chda dang d Yen Tit (Quang Ninh), khi nghe dugc tin Dinh Dien chet tran, da tudn tiet ngay 7 thang 5 nam 980. Den trilu Ly Thai To, hai cdt cua Dinh Diin va phu nhan dem ra thieu, sau dd duge xay ludn thap chdn cat xa Ii d ngdi chua ma Dinh Diin da xay dung tai Yen Lieu Ha. Thdp cao 6m, chan thdp vudng, mdi chilu 2m. Trudc day thap cd 7 tdng, nhung vao cudi thdi Nguyin bi gid bao Idm dd mdt nggn, sau sua lai chi cdn 5 tdng khdng diu, dinh thdp cd 1 hinh bdu rugu. Mat cac tdng thap diu cd cau dd'i, cdc tdng trang trf td linh: Long, Iy, quy, phugng. Bd'n gdc thdp cd tac 4 con hd bdng da (nhung hien nay khdng cdn). 168
Chua Thap ndm tren dien tfch rdng khoang 7 sao, quay hudng ddng. Tu hudng ddng di vao Id Tiln dudng 5 gian, chi dat 2 tugng Hd phap, gian ddu hdi ben phdi thd Td. Qua tiln dudng tdi san trat, mdi den 4 gian nha dgc la Thugng dien, gian ddu dl trdng, gian thu 2 dat thd 2 tugng Ddc 6ng (ben phdi), Ddc Thanh Hiln (ben trai). Cudi gian 2 cd huong an thd Tam Bdo Ngoai. Hai gian cudi xay cac be thd tir tren cao xud'ng thap, dat cdc tugng Phat. Gdn vdi hdi phfa bdc cua Tiln dudng la din thd Dinh Diin 3 gian. Tiln dudng cua din 3 gian, liln mai vdi Hau cung cung 3 gian lam cho din cd chilu sau, rdng. Gian giua cua Hau cung din dat thd tugng Dinh Diin bdng ddng, son son thep vdng, cd do mu trilu phuc, cao 1.1m, chu vi 1,05m, ngdi trong ngai. Gian ben trai diit tugng Cdng chda (phu nhan Dinh Diin) gian ben phdi dat tugng Kilu Mdc Thiln Su. Hai tugng nay diu la da't nung. Gian ben trai cdn phdi thd ca Tam Toa Thanh Mdu. Trong din cd mdt cau ddi: Phien am: Ddu tie khdi dam thiin nd muc Le dinh trung qudn nhdt. Chinh Hodn chi vi ky thdng tdm Dinh xd tiit ldng sicang... (Vao d chua khdng phdi vi me dao phat, trirng mat trdng thdy trilu dinh nhd Le ma ldng trung che ca mat trdi. 169
Ddnh Le Hoan khdng phdi vi minh ma vi dau ldng nhd lai xa tdc nha Dinh. khf tiet bdc len nhu suang). Ben phfa nam hdi Tiln dudng cua chua cdn cd 1 din thd Thuy thdn theo kieu nha dgc, 3 gian. Hau cung 2 gian cudi, trong long cung dat chie'c mu thd Thuy thdn. Ngdi din nay da cd tir trudc khi Dinh Diin xay dung chua d day. Thdp Dinh Diin ndm d vi trf sau din thd Dinh Dien gdn Hau cung chua. Vi vay. chua duoc ggi la chua Thap hay chua Thap Dinh Diin, ghi nhan ngdi chua do Dinh Diin xay dung, ddng thdi cd thdp chdn cat xa li cua Dinh Diin va phu nhan.
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tudi Ji :;ti^,^ < CHUA PHUONG BAN 6 thdn Yen Lieu Thugng, xa Khanh Thinh, huyen Yen Md cd mgt ngdi chua ldn nhdt huyen Yen Md, cung la mdt trong sd ft ngdi chua cd gia tri nhdt cua tinh Ninh Binh. Dd la chua Phugng Ban. Ddt thdn Yen Lieu Thugng mang dang hinh con chim phugng, ngdi chua xay dung tren lung "con phuang", lai ndm ben con sdng Ban, nen cd ten la Phugng Ban - mdt ten ggi mang dang hinh cua dat va nudc que huong. Tuong truyln, chua Phugng Ban cd tu thdi nha Dinh, trong khu vuc chua cd din thd Dinh Diin - mdt tudng tdi va la mdt trong td tru trilu Dinh. Thdn phd d den cho bill chua cd trudc, den khi Dinh Diin mat, nhan dan xay dung them ngdi din thd Dinh Diin d gdn chua. Toan bd khu chua Phugng Ban rdng khoang hom 3 mdu, cd nhilu cay diii thu, cay an qua, cay cdnh, cay hoa xanh tuoi bdn mua bao bgc, dm dp chiia nhu mdt chd'n tinh vien. Rat ft cdc ngdi chua cdn giu nguyen dugc khu ddt rdng den nhu the. Kiln trdc ciia chiia cung gid'ng nhu cdc ngdi chua khac. theo kieu chu "dinh " (Han tu), phdn ngang la Tiln dudng, nha dgc (chudi vd) la Hau cung. Nhung Tiln ducmg cua chua liii dai ddng dac. cd 11 gian dung bdng nhung cdt da va gd lim cao to. Hau cung cung ddi din 5 gian. sau tham thdm. Ciing rat hilm cac ngdi chua cd nhilu gian den nhu thi. Dd la mdt su bl thi. ddc dao, mang tfnh chat hoanh trang cua chua. Chiia lai ndm giura 171
cdnh ddng, quay hudng nam. Dudng vao chiia. tir phfa tay di qua Tam quan. Ngodi hien cua Tiln dudng cd 13 cdt da vudng. Trong Tiln dudng vd Hau cung tdt cd cdc cdt, vi. keo diu bang gd lim. Tiln dudng treo 9 burc dai tu va nhilu cau ddi trdng rat long Idy. O Tiln dudng dat tugng Hg Phap (6ng Thien) va Due Thanh Hiln (ben phai), tugng Hd Phap (6ng ac) va Diic 6ng (ben trdi). Sau gian d phia ddng va phfa tay Tiln dudng ddng sau, khdng xay tudng chdn, de trdng thdng ra san gach, di qua san mdi vao din thd Dinh Diin (ben phai), nha Td (ben trai), dung 10 cdt da vudng. Sat tudng hai ddu hdi Tiln dudng cd hai ddng: Ddng Cim Long (ben phdi), ddng Huyet Thd (ben trai). Nd'i vdi Tiln dudng dai 11 gian, 3 gian giira thdng vao Hau cung (nha dgc) 5 gian, lam cho Hau cung vita dai vira rdng. Gian ddu thd Tam Bao Ngoai. Gian thd hai de trdng. Gian thd 3, 4, 5 xay cdc be thd tu tren cao xud'ng thdp dat cac tugng Phat long Idy vang son. Chua Phugng Ban khdng xay Phu, chi cd nha To, cung quay hudng nam nhung d sau chua, ndm sdt cudi Hau cung chua vl phia tay (ben trdi), nhin ra san sau Tiln dudng chua. Nhd Td kiln trdc theo hinh chir "dinh " (Han tu), 3 gian Tiln dudng va mdt gian rudi Hau cung. Ngodi hien cua Nhd Td dung cac cdt da vudng, bac cda cung bdng da. Trong Tiln dudng treo 3 bdc diii tu. 172
Ddi xdng qua Hau cung cua chua. neu Nhd To d phfa tay, thi d phfa ddng la din thd Dinh Diin, kien trdc cung gid'ng nhu Nha Td nhung cd hai tdng mdi. d Hau cung cua din thd Id mdt bdi vi dl trong ngai thd Dinh Dien dat trong ldu (ben ngoai), lui vao trong sat tudng dat 2 bai vi trong ngai thd than mdu Dinh Diin. Dilu dac biet la, tat ca cdc cdt d din diu ldm bdng da vudng, cao din gdn 4,5m, mdt sd cdt dugc chiim khdc cac cau ddi bdng chu Hdn. Sd dT chua Phugng Ban xay din thd Dinh Diin vi tu khi Dinh Diin bd trilu dinh da vl ddt Y(3n Lieu gdm thon Yen Lieu Ha va thdn Yen Lilu Thugng lap can cd dl chd thdi co danh Le Hodn, xay dung chua tu hanh d thdn Yen Lieu Ha. Sau nay trong khu vuc ngdi chua dd, nhan dan da lap din thd Dinh Dien va xay thap thd dng, ggi la chua Thap (Xem bai "Chiia Thdp" d trong sdch). Vi vay thdn Yen Lieu Thugng cung xay dung din thd dng d gdn chua. Sat vdi phfa sau Hau cung chua cdn dat tugng Phat Ba Quan Am ddng tren con rdng udn lugn trong be. Lui ve phia bac la mdt san giich rdng. d phfa sau chua. qua san giich la Nha Trai 5 gian. 2 tang mai. kiln trdc theo kieu chu ""dinh ", Hiiu cung mgt gian thd Phat va thd Td. Hai ben Nha Trai vl phfa tay vd ddng, mdi ben cdn 4 gian nha nua la budng d va phdng lam viec cua su. Ndi vdi Nha Td va nha su d, vl hudng lay la 9 gian nha khach. ndi vdi nha su d vd din thd Dinh Diin, vl phia ddng la 5 gian nha nda. Tdt cd tu din thd Dinh Dien. Nha Td, Nha Trai. nha khdch din nhd su d va lam 173
viec da hinh thanh mdt kiln trdc gdn vudng theo hinh chir "khdu " (Han tu) d sau Phat dien. Trudc Tiln dudng cua Phat dien la vudn rdng, lui vl phfa tay nam cdn cd vudn thdp, gdm hom 10 thap tir mdt tdng den bd'n tdng. ddmg gdn nhau. Chua Phugng Ban trudc day cd Hod thugng tru tri, Iai la mdt cuu chien binh thdi ddnh My - Hod thugng Nguyin Thanh Thin. Que cua Hod thugng d xa Ninh An, huyen Hoa Lu, tinh Ninh Binh. Tir ldc mdi cd 5 tudi. Hod thugng da den nuang nhdcua Phat. Nam 1965, khi dd da la mdt su dng 38 tudi cd uy tfn, nhung ca dan tdc dang sdi sue khf thi danh My, nghe theo tieng ggi cua non sdng, su dng Nguyin Thanh Thin da tiim bd ao ca sa, tinh nguyen viit don vao bd ddi, xung phong vao Nam chiin ddu. Chien sy Nguyin Thanh Thin chien da'u d miin Nam cho din ngdy gidi phdng miin Niim. thd'ng nhdt ddt nudc, den nam 1978 mdi xudt ngu trd vl. 13 nam la mdt ehiln sy trong quan ddi giai phdng, Nguyin Thanh Thin da dugc Hgi ddng cd van Chinh phu each mang lam thdi Cdng hod miin Nam Viet Nam tang thudng 3 Huan chuong chiin sy gidi phdng hiing nhdt, nhi, ba va dugc kit nap vao Ddng cdng sdn Viet Nam. Xudt ngu trd vl, su dng Nguyin Thanh Thin xep bd do linh trong ruong dl lam ky niem, ki mac do ca sa, trd vl chiia Phugng Ban tru tri tiep. Thdi gian sau, su dng Nguyin Thanh Thin dugc nhan Huy chuang Khang chien hang nhi, Huy chuang vl sir nghiep dai doan kit 174
dan tdc va d trong Ban chap hanh Hdi Phat giao tinh Ha Nam Ninh va tinh Ninh Binh. Sau dd, su dng Nguyin Thanh Thin dugc tdn phong vdo hang gido phdm. Hien nay Hod thugng Nguyin Thanh Thin da mdt. Ca cudc ddi Hod thugng da sd'ng rat dep ddi vd cung rdt dep dao. Chua Phugng Ban gdn liln vdi ten tudi cd Hoa thugng, ngudi Ddng vien cuu ehiln binh Nguyin Thanh Thin, mai mai dugc nhan dan Ninh Binh ngudng md.
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CHUA HANG Chua Hang d thdn Phugng Tri, xa Yen Mac, huyen Yen Md. Chua chfnh la hang nen ggi la chua Hang. Hang nay ndm dudi chan ndi Voi. Trudc ndi Voi la cdnh ddng Ddm, quen ggi la cdnh ddng Cua Chua. Td hudng nam di vao qua san giich la Tam Quan xay dp vao cura hang, cura giira treo chudng. Ngay cira hang (thdng vdi cua giua) la ban thd Son Thdn. Sau ban thd Son Thdn cd mdt khdi da chdn chia hang lam hai cua, da ha thdp xud'ng, vao phai cui ddu. Vao cira ben trai la mdt hang rdng an thdng vdi hang ben phai. Hang nay dugc coi Id chua thd Phat, rdng chirng ba bd'n gian nha. Cudi hang (lui vl phfa bdc) xay be tir cao xud'ng thdp, khdng dat tugng Phat, chl cd 10 khung dnh dd cao 0,6m, rdng 0,2m, cham cac tugng Phat, la tranh Phat bdng dd. Hai ben be thd Phai nay, chi cd hai tugng Due 6ng, Due Thanh Hien ngoi trong ldu. Day la "chiia " duy nhdt d Ninh Binh thd Phai bdng nhung tranh da. Cd le, ngudi xua chua lam dugc tugng Phat bdng da, sg tugng gd va dat nung khong tdn tai lau trong hang dugc, nen phdi lam tranh da. Sau khi II Phat d hang thd Phat, re qua hang ben phdi. Hang nay thd Due Chda Tien. Hang dai gdn 20m (ddi gdp ddi hang thd Phat), rdng 4m, cd chd cao den 8m. Trong hang cd nhilu nhu da dep. Cudi hang, d tren cao dua vao cac nhu da, dat ban thd Ddc Chda Tien. Nhu the chua Hang thd cd Phat va Tien. 176
Phfa ngodi cua hang vl phfa tay la 3 gian nha Td quay hudng ddng. Ddi dien vdi nhd Td qua san gach vl phfa ddng Id 4 gian nha dgc (cua vdo tir phfa tay) la Phu. Phu quay hudng nam nhu chua, nhung khdng md cua d hudng nam, gian ddu va gian thu hai dl trdng, gian thu ba thd cdng ddng, gian trong cung sat vao chan ndi dat ban thd tugng Tam Tod Thdnh Mdu trong ldu. Day chfnh la mdt ngdi chua thien tao. Thien nhien va con ngudi da kit hgp lam cho chua Hang dep va linh thieng han.
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CHUA 6 HUYEN KIM SON
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Chua Ddng Ddc thudc xa Ddng Hudng, huyen Kim Son. ldn nhdt d vung Cdng gido Kim Son. Khdng chi xay dung rat sdm tren miin ddt tre, ma nd lai dugc tga lac tren mdt khu dat cao, rdng khoang 5 mdu, trdng rat dd so, bl thi. Ngdi chua nay cd dugc Id nhd su td hg Le trudc day tru tri d chiia Phuc Nhac (xa Khanh Nhiic, huyen Yen Khanh) va Doanh diin su Nguyin Cdng Trur. Nhung ngudi dan theo dao Phat va ngay ca nhirng ngudi dan Cdng giao Kim Son cung diu din ll d chua Ddng Ddc.
Trong thdi gian dang td chdc khan hoang tai Tien Hdi, Nguyin Cdng Trd da den miin ddt md sa bdi, sinh lay. menh mdng d ven bien Ninh Binh dl xem xet tinh hinh irudc khi len quy hoach chi dao khdn hoang. Den day. dng gap nhung nghTa quan cua Phan Ba Vanh tren vung dat hoang so ven bien dd. Cung vi sg nghia quan Phan Bd Vanh bdo thu quan cua trilu dinh, nen Nguyin Cdng Trd khdng dam xudt hien cdng khai. 6ng phdi bi mat cdi trang ldm thdy tu va d ludn chiia Phuc Nhac de di xem xet rudng bai. 6ng dugc nhd su hg Le gidp dd rat lim tinh nai an. chdn d va cung nhau lam bac cdng cudc khan hoang. Nhd su hg Le da tim ngudi dua dudng di thi 179
sat bai bdi cho Nguyin Cdng Trd la dng Pham Dinh Nhuang. Quan he gdn bd giua Nguyin Cdng Trd va nha su hg Le tru tn tai chua Phuc Nhac da cd td dd. Hg cung giup nhau de lam dilu lanh, viec thien, cd lgi cho ngudi dan. ' ^' Vl vay, den nam 1829, huyen Kim Son dugc thanh lap, nha su hg Le mud'n den huyen mdi de xay dung chiia. Nha su da dugc Doanh dien su Nguyin Cdng Trd gidp dd tan tinh ngay, cho chgn mdt khu ddt cao, trung tam nha't d xa Ddng Ddc de xay dung chua. Manh ddt dd cd hinh con dao cdu (dao thai thud'c). Vi the. tu khi tru tn d chua, nha su hg Le da lam mdt loai thud'c chua benh phong te thdp de cum dan do the. (Tir khi cd chiia de'n ngay nay, cac nha su d day diu lam thu thud'c nay. Thud'c rat hieu nghiem, chua khdi benh cho nhilu ngudi). Nam 1838, nghTa la sau 9 nam huyen Kim San thanh lap, nha su hg Le da xay dung xong ngdi chua Ddng Ddc va dat ten chiia la "Kim Lien ". Viec xay dung mdt ngdi chua vdi mdt quy md ldn tren nin ddt sa bdi, sinh lay rat vat va vd tdn kem d giai doan lam mdng chiia. Chua Ddng Ddc xay dung xong, nha su hg Le rdi bd chua Phuc Nhac den chua Ddng Ddc tru tri. Hien nay tdm bia dung d chua Ddng Ddc cdn ghi rd: '^^ "Kim San huu huyen thuy uMinh Menh thdp nien, Ky Siiu, thdnh U Doanh diin Nguyen Cdng. Ngd td su Le hdu, nguyen tru tri Phiic Nhgc tu, Nguyen tudng cdng tdng gid qudn chi". 180
(NghTa la: Huyen Kim San cd vao thdi Minh Menh thd 10, nam Ky Sum, do Nguyin Cdng Tru lap thdnh. Vi td su cua chua ta (chua Ddng Ddc) hg Le, nguyen tru tri d chiia Phde Nhac, Nguyin tudng cdng (Nguyin Cdng Tru) gid lam thay tu d dd). Cd the ndi, kiln true tdn giao sdm nhdt d Kim San la chua Ddng Ddc. Nd cd trudc qudn thi kien true Nhd thd da Phat Diem may chuc nam. ,,. *
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Chua Ddng Ddc kiln trdc theo kilu chu "dinh " (Han tu), phdn ngang la Tiln dudng, phdn dgc Id Chfnh dien hay Thugng dien - chd tham nghiem de thd Phat. Chua dugc xay dung bdng nhirng cdt gd lim cao, to. Vi, keo, xa ngang, xa dgc cung bdng gd lim. Dilu ddc dao la d nhung chd ldi ldm cua vi keo, tru, van nong, van lung, canh cua,... diu dugc cham bong kenh, cham long, tiio thanh nhung tac pham nghe thuat tren gd tuyet dep. Mdi bdc chiim nhu dugc thdi mdt ludng sinh khi dem den ve dep sd'ng ddng, la ky. Trudc Thugng dien, cd cira vdng chiun long, thep vang lam nin cho Phat dien, nhu loe len mgt diem sang cua dnh vdng de hudng con ngudi vdo cdi Phiit. Day la tdc phdm nghe thuat cd gid tri cao. Chua Ddng Ddc dugc xay theo hudng tay - tay nam. Tien dudng gdm 7 gian ldn, dat tugng Due 6ng, tugng Ddc Thanh Hiln va hai tucmg Hd Phdp cao to. Ben tren cda vdng treo bdc dai tur gdm 3 chu Han: "Kim Lien Tu" (chua Kim Lien - Chua Sen vdng). 6 Thugng 181
dien - nai thd Phat (nha dgc) 3 gian, dat cac tugng Phat thii tu tir tren cao xud'ng thdp nhu sau: - Hang thur nhat: Bay 3 pho tugng Tam the (Qua khdr, Hien tai, Tuong Iai). Ba tugng nay diu ngdi tren toa sen. ''^ - Hang thd hai: Di Da tam tdn. Tugng A Di Da d giiia. Tugng Dai The Trf ben phai tugng A Di Da va ben trdi la tugng Quan The Am. - Hang thd ba: Hoa Nghiem Tam Thanh: Thfch Ca Mau Ni d gifia, ngdi tren toa sen, mac do phap de hd vai, tay cam hoa sen. Tugng Ca Diep d ben trai tugng Thfch Ca. Tugng A Nan Da ben phai. - Hang thd tu: Tugng Chuan Di Bd Tat (d giua). Ben phai tugng Chuan De Bd Tat la tugng Thien Tai. Ben trai la tugng Long Nu. - Hang thd nam: Thfch Ca so sinh, cdn ggi la Thfch Ca Cim Long dat d giira. Tugng la mdt hai nhi khdi ngd tua'n tu dung trin toa sen, mac qudn ngdn, tay trai chi trdi, tay phai chi dat, xung quanh cd 9 con rdng. Chin con rdng la the hien loan bd may nudc linh thieng de tdm Phat khi xudt the. Ben phdi tugng Cim Long la tugng van Thu Bd Tat. Ben trai tugng Cim Long la tugng Phd Hiln Bd Tat. Cac tugng Phat va Bd Tat d the ddng, chu yeu Id ngdi, dien tugng tu bi, ddn hau, mieng thoang nu cudi cm do, mui thdng ddy dan, mdt nhin xud'ng soi rgi ndi tam. Tat cd cdc pho tugng Phat diu uy nghiem, nhan td va dugc son son thep vang. 182
Ben tren hdng tugng Phat cao nhat cung treo buc dai tu cd 4 chu Hdn: "Tue Gidm Vd Tu" (Tri tue cua due Phat dat tdi canh gidi vd lau). Buc dai tu d giua cung cd 4 chir Han: 'Vgn Dice Trang Nghiem ". 0 hai cdt da trong Thugng dien cd cau ddi: Thien giang hiiu thuy thien giang nguyet Viin ly vd van van ly thien (Mudn sdng ngdn sudi cdn mdi vdi thdi gian Mudn trdi vgn ddt tdn tgi theo ndm thdng) Dilu ddc dao nua ciia chua Ddng Ddc la nha Tang dudng khdng xay dung d sau dien Phat ma nd'i liln vdi Tiln dudng cua chua, gdm 5 gian lui vl phfa bdc va dien Mdu, 5 gian cung nd'i theo Tiln dudng cua chua lui vl phfa nam, diu quay hudng tay - tay nam, da tao cho Tiln dudng cua chua, Td dudng va dien Mdu ddi den 17 gian. Nin ciia Td dudng va dien Mdu cd thdp hon so vdi nin chua. 6 dien Mdu cd treo mdt qua chudng due tir nam Quy Mao, Thieu Tri thu ba ( nam 1843). Chua Ddng Ddc xay dung vdi quy md ldn, bl the, cd thu vien (3 gian), nhd Trai - noi sinh hoat cua tang doan (5 gian), nha khach (3 gian), nhung phdng an nghi cua cdc nha su (9 gian),... ndi liln vdi hai ddu day Tiln dudng cua Tang dudng va dien Mdu, rdi vdng vl phfa ddng. tiio thanh kien trdc hinh chu "khdu" khep kfn. Phfa Irudc Tiln dudng cua chua la san gach vd mdl hd rdng trdng sen, tao ra am duong dd'i dai. 183
Ngoai ra, vudn chua cdn cd 7 ngdi thdp la nai an tdng xd lgi cua cdc To su da tru tri qua cac thdi ky. Hien nay, chua da xay tudng bao quanh, xay dung hai Tam quan di vdo chua, cd nha dat thap bat La Han, vd dat bdn khu tugng tdi hien lai lich su cua dao Phat Thfch Ca trong 4 giai doan: ddn sinh, xudt gia, thanh dao, niet ban. Cac nha su tru tri d chua Ddng Ddc cd Phiim Ddc Nhuan, tdc Thfch Ddc Nhuan (mat nam 1993) da trd thanh "Hod thuang Phdp chii gido hdi tdng gid nudc Viet Nam ". Ngai da dugc Chu tich nudc tang thudng Huan chuang ddc lap hang nhdt do cd nhilu cdng lao ddng gdp cho sir nghiep thanh lap Giao hdi Phat giao Viet Nam. Trong thdi ky khdng chien chd'ng thuc dan Phap. chua Ddng Ddc Id nai hoat ddng cua mdt sd can bd, cung la noi d cua bd ddi. Cdch ngay nay 40 nam. chua Ddng Ddc la noi dao tao Tang tdi. Td nam 2005, chua Ddng Ddc trd thanh CO sd II - Trudng Ha cua Hdi Phat gido Ninh Binh. Trudng Ha md Idp tu ngay 15 thang 5 (am lich) den hit ngay 15 thang 8 (am lich). Tat cd cdc Su vd Tieu d huyen Yen Md, huyen Kim Son va mgt nua huyen Yen Khdnh diu den day hgc Ha. Ndi dung cua hgc Ha gdm 3 phdn: 1- Nang cao kiln thdc Phat hgc. 2- Trau ddi Tam vd lau hgc. 3- Qudng ba gido ly cua dao Phat. Nhan dan huyen Kim Son rat tu hao cd quan the kiln true Nha thd da Phdt Diem lai cd chua Ddng Ddc d mdt viing Cdng gido kinh Chda, yeu nudc. 184
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Chiia Yen Binh d thdn Yen Binh, xa Yen Lgc, huyen Kim Son dugc xay dung each ngay nay tren 100 nam, ndm tren mdt khu ddt rdng gdn hai mdu. Day la mgt khu chua bl thi, rdng Idn d huyen Kim Son. Chua quay hudng lay nam, phfa trudc la san gach va hd nudc rdng, kiln true theo kilu chu "dinh " (Han tu). Tiln dudng cua chua 5 gian, xay dung cao to theo kilu vi keo gdc tudng, khdng cd cdt. Trong Tiln dudng khdng dat 2 tugng Hd Phdp, chi dat tugng Ddc 6ng (ben trdi), Ddc Thanh Hiln (ben phdi). Hau cung cua chua 3 gian, khdng cd cira vdng, gian ddu de trdng, 2 gian sau xay cac be tir tren cao xudng thap, dat cdc tugng Phat. Phu xay liln vdi ddu hdi phia bdc cua Tiln dudng chua, nhung thap han, kiln trdc theo kilu chir "dinh " Tiln dudng 3 gian, Hau cung 1 gian, quay hudng tay nam nhu chua. Phfa sau chua la san gach rdng. di qua san gach la nha Td 4 gian cung quay hudng tay nam. Nd'i tiip hai ben nha To la 8 gian nha khdch. 6 phfa bdc ndi vdi Nha khach va Phu la 8 gian nha khach nua quay hudng ddng niim. 185
Dilu dac biet cua chua Id. su tru tri la Hod thugng Trdn Minh Due hien nay (2006) da 90 tudi. tu d chiia gdn 70 nam, dang lam Chu tich Hdi phat giao tinh Ninh Binh. Hod thugng da tham gia khang chien chd'ng Phap, chd'ng My, cd Huan, Huy chuang chd'ng Phap. chd'ng My cua Nhd nudc trao tang. Chua Yen Binh trong thdi ky khang ehiln chd'ng Phdp da xay hdm bf mat dl che ddu can bd, bd ddi da ddng quan d chua. Cac hdi nghi cua can bd huyen va tinh da td chdc tai chua.
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CHUA 6 THI XA TAM DIEP
CHUA TRLTVG SON Chua Trung Son d phudng Trung Son, thi xa Tam Diep, la'y ten phudng dat ten cho chua. ndm tren dien tfch gdn 2 mdu d dudi chan nui Vuong Ngu. Nui Vuong Ngu cao hom 40m. Khi keo quan ra bdc tieu diet quan Thanh, ngdy 20 thang chiip Miiu Than (15-01-1789) Vua Quang Trung da hgi dai binh d deo Tam Diep va tap hgp cac tudng sy tai chan ndi Vuong Ngu. Vua Quang Trung cho tudng sy bay dan tren dinh ndi dl cdu trdi. bay dan dudi chan nui de cdu Phat trudc khi xuat quan ra TTiang Long. Ngdy mdng nam tit Ky Dau (1789), Vua Quang Trung va quan sy Tay San da ehiln thang ldn d Ddng Da, Thang Long, dap tan 29 viin quan Thanh xam lugc. Vi vay. qua ndi dd dugc mang ten la Vuang Ngu. Cho nen ngay 12-10-2000. Bd Van hod - Thdng tin da ddu tu cho xay dung "Nhd hia ky niem phdng tuyin Tam Diep - Bien Scfn " tai dinh ndi Vuong NgU. Trong bia cham khdc bdn dd "'Phong tuyin Tam Diep - Bien San " va cd doan van: "Dem 30 thdng chgp ndm Mdu Thdn (1789) 5 dgo qudn ciia Quang Trung Nguyen Hue dd xudt phdt tic ddy (Phdng tuyin Tam Diep - Bien San) tieu diet ddn tiin tieu Gidn Khdu md ddu cho chiin dich dgi phd qudn Thanh vdo ddu xudn Ky Ddu (1789)". Ndi Vuong Ngu da la mdt di tfch lich su quan trgng. 188
De tudng nhd Vua Quang Trung lap dan cdu Phat d dudi chan ndi thdi xua, sau nay, nhan dan thi xa Tam Diep da xay dung mdt ngdi chua thd Phat tai chan ndi ,. ;..,, ; , -.> . Vuong Ngu. Chua quay hudng bdc. Tu phfa bdc di vdo, ddu tien la tugng Phat Ba Quan Am dung tren be cao. Tiep dd la san gach. Qua san gach la chua kiln true theo kieu chu "dinh " (Hdn tu), vi, keo gdc tudng, ngoai hien cd 4 cdt trdn lam bdng be tdng cdt thip. Tiln dudng 5 gian, 2 tdng mai, gdn hai ddu hdi xay hai cdt ddng tru. Trong Tiln dudng dat thd hai tugng Hd Phdp, tugng Ddc 6 n g va tugng Due Thanh Hiln. Ndi vdi Tien dudng la Hau cung mdt gian rdng, trudc Hau cung cd cua vdng, ben tren treo buc dai tu. Trong Hau cung xay cdc be tu cao xud'ng thdp dat thd cac tugng Phat nhu cac ngdi chua khdc. Nha Td 5 gian, quay hudng bdc, xay d phia sau Tiln dudng ndm vl phfa tay Hau cung chua, cd 2 tdng mai. Hien nay, dang xay dung Nha thd Mdu ndm vl phfa ddng cua Hau cung chua, quay hudng bdc. Nha thd Mdu xay dung 5 gian theo kilu tam cap gdm 3 cung: cung de nhdt 5 gian, cung de nhi 5 gian, cung de tam 3 gian. 6 phfa tay chua. gdn Tiln dudng, cdn cd 5 gian nha Tu An quay hudng ddng, nd'i vdi 5 gian nhd Tu An 189
cdn cd 13 gian nha khach nura. cung quay hudng ddng. day nha nay gdm 18 gian. Den chua II Phat xong, cd the budc len hom 100 bac da se den dinh ndi Vuang Ngu, vao din Thugng thdp hucmg tudng niem Vua Quang Trung. 6 lung chumg nui cdn cd ddng thd. Trong ddng cung thd Vua Quang Trung va thd Phat.
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Khi Vua Quang Trung keo quan ra Bdc tieu diet quan Thanh da hdi dai binh d deo Tam Diep. Tuong truyln, ba Mat da la ngudi ddn dudng cho mdt dao quan. Vi vay, sau khi ba mat, nhan dan da xay mdt din thd d phfa bdc ndi thd bd, cho nen ndi dd dugc mang ten ndi Mat, la'y ten ba dat ten cho nui. Ndi Mat thudc xa Yen Son, thi xa Tam Diep. Ndi cdn cd ten la Ma Yen, vi gidng hinh yen ngua. Dudi chan ndi Mat vl phfa tay cd mdt ddng ldn, thdy ddng dep, sau khi din thd bd chda Mat d phfa bdc ndi bi phd huy, nhan dan da thd ba d trong ddng va bien ddng lam chua, ggi la chua Ddng Mat. Day Id mdt "chiia " do tao hod kien tao nen rdt ddc dao da trd thanh mdt diim tham quan du lich cua du khach trong va ngoai nude. "Chiia " chfnh la ddng, quay hudng tay. Tu hudng tay di vdo, cda hang d ngay dudi chan ndi, cao 3m, rdng 2,5m, phai budc xud'ng dudi 7 bac mdi vao dugc ddng. Nhu thi nin ddng thap hon mat ddt khoang gdn 2m. Vao trong, thay trdn ddng rdt thdp, chi cao gdn 2m, nhung phdng, khdng cd nhu da chdy xud'ng. Ddng sau vao 30m, rdng gdn 30m, nen dugc dd be tdng nhu nin nha. Phfa ddng ddng, sdt vach, ngudi ta xay cac be theo chilu ngang cua ddng dat cac tugng Phiit. Day chfnh la cung thd nhdt, ggi la ddng thd Phat. 191
6 phfa bdc ddng md rdng ra, sat vach cd ban thd cd Ba, dudi nin ddng la giing nggc, nudc luc ndo cung day, trong nhu lgc, dung de te ll. Theo dudng di trong ddng vl phfa bdc se den cung thur hai cung rdng, cao, sat vach phia ddng, la ban thd ba Chda Mat, ggi la ddng thd Thanh. 6 cung nay cd nhilu nhu da dep. Thdp huong 11 ba Chda Mat xong, di vl phfa tay. theo con dudng hep, dd be tdng ddi vai chuc met, re phdi, se vdo cung thii ba, Id ddng thd Mdu. Tu budng nay cd mdt cira vao mdt hang hep xuyen thdng ra ben kia nui, phia ay ggi la cita bdc, cQng cd the di dudng nay vao ddng dugc. Hien nay, da xay ngdi Phii nho che lap cira hang nay de khdng ra vao dugc. Tu cung nay, Iai cd dudng di vl phfa ddng la cung dat ban thd Cau, ggi la ddng thd Cau, la cung thd tu cua ddng. Sau khi 11 Cau xong, di ngugc lai ra cung thu hai thd ba Chda Mat. d day cd mdt dudng thuy ra eua ddng. Dudng thuy nay dai de'n 200m, cd chd rdng 15m, nudc sau den gdn 10m. Tiir mat nudc len trdn hang, cd chd cao hon lOm. Xudng thuyln di theo hang nudc nay se ra phfa ddng nui, cua hang d phia ddng rdng 6m, qua cua la den mdt hd rdng. Nhu the ddng Mat cd 3 cua: Tay, ddng va bdc, cura phia ddng Id dudng thuy. 192
Dilu ddc ddo la nudc tu dap Sdng Cdu van chdy qua rudt ndi, da lam thanh sudi trong dgng. Rat hiem ddng cd nudc chay ngdm qua rugt ndi, vira la ddng khd vua la ddng nudc nhu d day. Den chua Ddng Mat khdng chi la di ll Phat, ll Thanh (Ba Chua Mdt) ma cdn dugc tham thd mgt ddng khd vd hang nudc ddi dep, ky thd. Day la mdt diim tham quan du lich cua nhilu du khach trong vd ngoai nudc.
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CHUA 6 HUYEN NHO QUAN
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Chua Duy Khanh d thdn Ddng Lac, xa Thanh Lac, huyen Nho Quan, toa lac tren dien tfch rdng gdn mdt mdu, each khu dan cu, quay theo hudng tay nam, phfa trudc la con dudng giao thdng lien thdn. lien xa. canh dudng la cdnh ddng Ida rgng menh mdng. Kien trdc cua chua theo kilu chu "dinh " (Han tu), Tiln dudng 3 gian, Hau cung 2 gian rudi. Tu san gach. phai budc len 4 bac, cao khoang 1.5 m mdi din Tien dudng. Tiln dudng mdi thdng, khdng vdt cong. Igp ngdi nam. vi keo chiim khdc dep, kit cdu theo kieu chdng giudng. hii kl. Hai vi keo ciia gian giua cham khac td linh (long, ly, quy, phugng). Vi, keo d Hau cung cung kit Ciiu theo kieu chdng giudng, ha chdp, soi dng chi va hdc m(i chiim khdc td quy (thdng, mai. trdc, cdc), ddu bay chiim khdc theo kieu la lat. Ngoai hien cua Tiln dudng cd 4 cdt da xmdng. soi canh, mat tiln chiim khdc cau dd'i bdng chu Han. hai ben hdng cac cdt chiim khdc ndi long cud'n thuy. Canh cda d Tiln dudng la cua budm. cd cham khdc hoa van hinh la lat. Gian giua cua Tiln dudng treo bdc dai tu bdng chiir Han ""Duy Khdnh Tie" (Chua Duy Khanh). Gian ben phai cua Tiln dudng thd tugng Due 6ng. canh dd la ban ihd Thd Than, gian ben trai cd ngai thd Thanh Hoang ban ihd va ngai ihd Quy Minh Dai Vuong. 195
Nd'i vdi Tiln dudng la Hau cung (nhd dgc) xay cac be tir tren cao xud'ng thdp dat cac tugng Phiit nhu cdc ngdi chua khac. Nhung dilu ddc dao la trong cac tugng Phat d chua cd mdt toa Cuu Long cd cao. to va dep, gdm 36 pho tugng nhd. 6 Ninh Binh chi cd duy nhdt d day, hien nay, mdi cd toa Cuu Long nay. Nhu the, chua Duy Khdnh, khdng chi ihd Phiil. ma cdn thd ca Thanh Hoang va than Quy Minh. Chua cdn luu giu dugc nhumg sdc phong cua cac ddi vua: Thieu Tri thd 6, Tu Due thd 10, Khai Dinh thd 10. Dilu dac biet la, chua lai ndm liln kl vdi Khu can cur each mang Quynh Luu, cd dia hinh hiem ylu, ddng chiem trung, xen ldn vdi nui da, vi vay ngay tu nam 1930, day la noi di vl hdi hgp cua cac ddng chf hinh dao su uy Bdc Ky va Chi bd Ddng Duong cdng san Dang Ninh Binh. Nam 1931, chua Id noi td chdc Hdi nghi Chi bd ddu tien cua tdng Van Trinh, ban viec cdm cd Dang tren nui Gap d thdn Ddng Lac va la noi cdt giau truyln don cua ta de dem di rai d cdc xa trong huyen Nho Quan. Cung nam nay, chua la noi md trudng Huong Su. Tir nam 1939 din nam 1945, chua la noi td chdc nhilu cudc hgp bf mat cua Chi bd Dang tdng Van Trinh, cung la dia diem luyen tap cua dan quan. du kfch trong vung. Chfnh vi vay, chua da dugc Nha nudc cdng nhan la Di tfch Lich su - Van hod.
196
MUCLUC Trang PHAN THir NHAT KHAI LUAN 1- Ngdi chua 2- Nen huong 3- Phat giao thdi Dinh - Tiln Le 4- Chua d Ninh Binh *
4 17 25 29
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CHUA 0 HUYEN HOA LU
1 - Chuii Bfch Ddng - "Nam thien de nhi ddng" 37 2- Chua Nha't Tru :,:•[ :^1 3- Chua Am Tien 63 •li:' 4- Chua Am 71 5- Chua Ngan 75 6- Chua Hoa Son 79 7- Chua Ban Long 83 8- Chua Trung Tru 86 9- Chua Phong Phd 90 10-Chua Thap Da 95 197
CHUA 6 HUYEN GIA VIEN 1- Bai Dfnh - Khu chua ldn nhdt Viet Nam
99
2- Chua Dich Long - "Nam thien de tam ddng" 10 3 3-Chua Bai Dfnh
115
4-Chua Thanh San
120
5-Chua Ldi Son
123
6- Chua Lac Khoai
126
7-Chua Ky Lan
129
CHUA 6 THANH PHO NINH BINH I- Chua Non Nudc
132
2- Chua A Nau
138
3- Chua Phde Chinh
142
4- Chua Dau Long
145
CHUA 6 HUYEN YEN KHANH 1- Chua Tan Yen
151
2- Chua Ddu
153
3- Chua Do
157
198
4- Chua Kien 6c
160
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5- Chua Phuc Nhac
163
CHUA 6 HUYEN YEN M 6 1- Chiia Thap
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2- Chua Phugng Ban
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3- Chua Hang
176
CHUA 6 HUYEN KIM SON 1-Chiia Ddng Ddc ,,,H„ ,.•
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2-Chua Yen Binh
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NHA XUAT BAN VAN HOA THONG TIN 43 - LO DUC - HA NOI - DT: 04.8214754
CHUA NINH BINH ' '
LADANGBAT
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Chiu trach nhiem xua't ban BUI VIET BAC Chiu trach nhiem ban thao PHAM NGOC LUAT -Bien tap:
Anh Thu
- Trinh bay bia:
Phan Hai
- Anh bia 1: Chua Non Nudc cua tac gia - Anh bia 4: Chua Bfch Ddng cua tac gia - Sua ban in: Tac gia
In 500 cudn, khd 13 x 19cm tai Nha in bao Thanh Hoa thanh phd Thanh Hoa. Sd dang ky KHXB: 930 - 2006/CXB/09 - 139/VHTr. In xong va nop luu chieu thang 3 nam 2007.
DA IN • V e voi "\ inh Ha Long can"
• Tam Coc - Bich Dong
• Chua Dicb Long
• Thang canh \'an Long
• Co do Hoa Lir
• Nili Due Thiiy
• Canh dep Ninh Binh
• The van sua vinh canh dep Ninh Binh
• Trvwng Han Sieu
• Hon que
• Di tich va danh thang Ninh Binl
•Xa> dung thanh pho Hoa Lir du Uch
• Ninh Binh - Mot vung SOD thiiy huu tinh
• Chua Ninh Binh
k-:
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Gia 25.0(IOd
