Fabric_Form and Flat Pattern Cutting_ Designing Patterns

FABR IC, FORM FORM and FLAT PA TT TTERN ERN CUTTING, DESIGN IN G PATTERN PATTERN S Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology E-mail: [email protected]

FABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERN CUTTING, DESIGNING PATTERNS Close fitting garments made from stretch and jersey fabric, these blocks are constructed to be smaller than the body measurements and to the body shape. Some adjustments to the horizontal measurements may have to be made, this should be related to the stretch and relaxation of different fabrics. Most designs in stretch fabric are simple modification of the basic blocks.

The examples in this chapter demonstrate some particular techniques.


Mechanical properties of the fabric





Knitted fabric will stretch and mould around the body. Consequently, the amount of ease allowance can be reduced. How much reduction depends on the elasticity of the fabric. The final pattern production may have to be modified for a specific fabric. Weft knitting is more extendable across, in the weft direction warp knitting is firmer. Woven fabric fabric with a blend of elastan elastan (Lycra) (Lycra) can can have the the ability ability to stretch in either the warp or weft direction or both. Clothing pressure is a combination of garment, human body and the mechani mechanical cal interac interactions tions between between them. them. True True fitting fitting tight tight - fit sportswear to the body shape can only by achieved by the use of a stretch fabric, which can expand and contract without buckling or wrinkling to accommodate body movement.


The Swimsuit final pattern modification 80% PA, 20% EA

] m / N [ e c r o f e l i s n e t … F

18.6 %

c h e t r r t s

o n i i o a t x a l a r e

31.6 % Weft

E…tens E…tensile ile strain strain [%]

Back part

Front part

80% PA, 20% EA

] m / N [ e c r o f e l i s n e t … F

Warp

E…tens E…tensile ile strain strain [%]


Therefore, Therefore, the mechanical mechanical properties properties of knitted knitted fabrics are defined defined taking into account account the allowed allowed limit of compressio compression n influence influence on human body. Compression law

Compression(*) Compression law hPa mmHg(**) 13-19 10-14 Ccl A Light *) The values indicating pressure, whereby reacts garment on hypothetical cylindrical shape of the body part. ** millimetre of mercury 1 mmHg = 1,333 hPa

] N [ e c r o f e l i s n e t … F E…tens E…tensile ile strain strain [%]

Weight [g m-2]

F [N]

Compression [hPa]

E [%]

PL 67%, PL Coolmax 27%,Lycra 6%

187

2,17

18,56

22,17

PL Coolmax fresh 63 %,PL 33 %,Lycra 4%

102

2,13

16,06

32,29

PL Coolmax 57%,PL micro 37%,Lycra 6%

251

2,16

18,8

24,31

PL Coolmax 60%, PL micro 40%

208

2,16

18,83

20,5

PA Supplex 92%, Lycra 8%

268

2,1

16,24

35,06

CO 90%, Lycra 10%

210

2,15

17,89

25,76

CO 90%, Lycra 10%

271

2,14

18,95

18,13

Fabric - Fibre content (%)


The resultant value application in the construction procedure of tig tight ht - fi fitt spor sports tswe wear ar By means of the percentage value of currently selected knitted fabric elongation the block pattern construction shape of a designed tight -fit sportswear e.g. pair of trousers etc. can determined. determined. Value of elongation within the range 18-35% 0.05 hg+1.5 is applied to body dimension modification as constru constructio ction n input input paramete parameters. rs.

3 1 4-5

3 + g h 5 0 . 0

(cd) – (cd) – Body rise rise (Crutch (Crutch depth) depth)

d c

0.25 hg

y

2

Body dimension Modified girth dimension E [%] [cm] [cm] Waist girth (wg) 97 24 73.4 Hip girth (hg) 80.3 105.6 24 Calf girth (cg) 30.4 40 24 Ankle girth (ag) 21.3 28 24 Fabric: PL Coolmax 57%, PL micro 37%, Lycra 6% (llo) – (llo) – outside outside leg leg length, length, (lli) – (lli) – Inside Inside leg leg length length

3

1-2

x = i l l 1 . 0 i l l 5 . 0

0.25 hg

y

o l l

2

x 5 . 0

0.5 cg

0.5 ag 1

0.5 cg

0.5 ag 1

8 6

0.1 hg


Input param parameters eters for Sport Sportweare weare desig design n Garment fit and pressure comfort play an important role in clothing comfort, especially in the case of tight -fit sportswear. There are three factors, which influence the pressure exerted by garments : Shape

of the body parts Foto:www.sport-invest.cz

Body shape is an important influential factor towards clothing pressure as greater degree of curvature, the greater pressure exerted . Type

of the fabric used

The amount of pressure, which measured in mmHg (millimeter of mercury) been found on vary in body locations locations garments were made of different types of fabrics. Design

and fit of the garment

has when


Body dimensions Humans have to function and move unrestricted in clothing systems.

Seven Seven extre extreme me bod body y postur postures es caus causing ing chan changes ges of of 18cm, 18cm, 24cm 24cm,, 21cm, 21cm, 22cm 22cm,, 27 cm, cm, 16c 16cm m an and d 22 22cm cm resp respec ecti tive vely ly,, rela relati tive ve to a ne neut utra rall posi positi tion on (Lo (Lote tens ns,, 1989 1989))


Ergonomics of movement Ergonomic research is performed by those who study human capabilities in relationship to their sport demands.

Dimensions - Dimensions - measu measuremen rements ts of the the body body at rest. rest. Dyn Dynam amic ic Dime Dimensi nsion ons s - - measur measurements ements of body body parts in motion. motion. Static

Information derived from these studies contributes to the design and evaluation of tasks, products, environments and systems in order to make them compatible with the needs, abilities and limitations of people.

INPUT

- Dynamic factor x(s) - Measurement of body at rest x(d) - Measurement of body parts in motion Dynamic factor in percentage

Human

Tools

OUTPUT Sport performance

α

Environment


Easy Fitting Blocks for Jersey Wear Measurements required to draft The Block

Block for Tee Shirts y/4

ng

2 y g = n 2 / . x x 2 = 0 1 + a t

bg sl wtg wg hg

0.75

2.0 A´

A

0.75

0.2ng+1

B´

1 + w n ) a t + w n ( = l f

A´B´=AB +2,5

1.5

2 / x

0.33 A´B´

B bw+1 0.25 bg+2.5

dl

o f

e ni l

e n e C

rt

ta bw nw 0.5 wtg

l s


Cycling Jerseys pattern design B1 34,38 %

-12 % of bw

Back

B3

sleeve sleeve t t k n n k c c a or a or b f b f e e r r t t n n e e c c

+8 % H3´ 13,38 %

1,08 [rad]

π

0,84 [rad]

[rad]

Armhole

r

blocks

1,22 [rad]

front

Front

back

B5 H5´

-12 %

38,84 %

B7

50

10% 10 % of nw

°

dynamic effect =10% of measurement : Nape to waist


System of ease allowance The system of the ease allowance can be defined as a complex of influen influences ces effective effective in the the shape shape and dimensions constructed clothing. The type of fabric has a great influence on the amount of ease allowances p i for: body movement, expansion comfort. The dimensional stability of the fabric is an important factor. The more stable the fabric, the greater the ease allowance. This depends on whether it is: woven, knitted or non-woven.

E C I K D C O A B B

A

E C I D O B T N O R F

B

Construction Construc tional al absc absciss issa a AB i(w) = k i * B i + a i + p i constru constructi ctional onal absciss abscissa a AB i(w) k i regressi regression on coeffic coefficien ientt body dimension B i absolute term a i allowance p i e.g. for woven fabric: Basic formula for front width: fw (fr (front ont widt width)= h)= 0.24*wg+(-1,5)+2,5 e.g. for knitted fabric: Basic formula for front width: fw (f (fro ront nt wi widt dth) h)= = = 0. 0.24 24*wg+(-1,5) *wg+(-1,5) -2,5 -2,5


Chart: Suggested minimum ease allowance to be added to the body measurements for women´s block patterns in woven fabric (measurements in centimetres). Size range 8 to 16 and 16 to 24 Blouse MEASU EASURE REME MEN NT

BOD BODY SIZ SIZE

DRES DR ESS S SIZE IZE

DRES DR ESS S SIZ SIZE

SKIR SKIRT T AN AND D TROUS ROUSER ERS S SIZE IZE

BLOUS LOUSE E

bust girth waist girth hip girth neck girth across back width across front width upper arm girth elbow girth wrist semi-fit wrist fitted depth of armhole thigh girth knee girth

12 88.0 70.0 96.0 38.0 35.0 32.0 28.0 26.0 16.0 16.0 21.0 57.0 37.0

´8 - 16 4.0 to 8.0 4.0 to 5.0 4.0 to 5.0 2.0 to 3.0 2.0 to 4.0 2.0 to 3.0 5.0 to 6.0 4.0 to 6.0 6.0 to 7.0 3.0 to 4.0 2.0 to 3.0 -

16 - 24 5.0 to 10.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 4.0 3.0 to 5.0 3.0 to 4.0 6.0 to 8.0 6.0 to 8.0 6.0 to 8.0 3.0 to 4.0 3.0 to 4.0 -

´8 - 24 2.0 to 4.0 4.0 to 6.0 8.0 to 12.0 9.0 to 15.0

´8 -24 4.0 to 10.0 4.0 to 10.0 4.0 to 6.0 2.0 to 4.0 2.0 to 4.0 2.0 to 4.0 4.0 to 8.0 3.0 to 8.0 6.0 to 8.0 3.0 to 4.0 2.0 to 5.0 -

ankle girth

25.0

-

-

8.0 to 12.0

-


Information tree to guide the design research process for performance sportswear designers Aesthetics Form/Style Culture of the sport

Colour Materials Cut/Fit/Proportion Corporate culture Life style subcultures Historical context Military research and development development

Mood, Safety, Commercial considerations, Environmental impact

Fibre types, Yarns, Fabric selection Garment construction, Cutting for movement, movement, Sizing Sizing Team/club/Co-identity Commercial/legal concerns Communica Communicatio tio Hero/Fan Hero/Fan culture culture Fashion Code of tradition/etiquette History, Past heroes Human factors, Product function, New technology Contact/Non-contact sport

Demands of the body Function Demands of the sport

Protection Anthropometry Ergonomics of movement Thermo physiological regulation Psychological considerations Duration of activity Safty/Survival Range of likely sporting conditions conditions

Environmental conditions Senses, Health/Safety Measurement of body Predominant patterns and posture, Agility Heat dissipation, Heat retention, Workload, Ambient conditions Appearance/StyleReliabillity/ perceptions of reliabillity

Short, Medium, Long Rules of governing bodies, Protection, Identification Location, Season, Climate, Transportation


Major internatio international nal sports trade trade fairs where where leading fibre fibre and fabric produce producers rs and garment manufacturers promote new developments for the sportswear


Production patterns Seams, hems and facings are required to complete a garment pattern for production. The pattern technologist has to be aware of all the factors that influenc influence e the completion completion of the patterns, patterns, such such as: the end use of the garment, the design, fabric, production methods and cost. The pattern construction techniques, creating pattern shapes of the: Shell pattern Lining pattern Interlining pattern


Seam allowances The seam allowance is the distance from the stitching line to the perimeter of a cut garment part. The amount of seam allowance can vary greatly according to: (1)

The po posit sitio ion n of the seam seam and and how much stress it has from body movement, e.g. an armhole and sleeve sleeve head head (minimum (minimum allowanc allowance e 1 cm). The curv curvat atur ure e of the sea seam m influences influences the seam width, e.g. the curved seam of a panelled bodice requires a narrower seam where convex and concave curves have to be joined together (maximum of 1cm).

(1)

(2)

(3) (2)

(3)

Enclosed seams require seams require a narrow seam allowance, e.g. the faced neck and armhole (maximum of 0.7 cm). (4) The type type of ma mach chin iner ery y required required for stitching the seam influences the seam allowance width e.g.. a flat e.g flat felled felled seam seam



Flat Felled Seam

(2)




(5) The type of fabric often fabric often determines the width of the seam allowance allowance and how itit is neatened neatened e.g.: - loose loosely ly wove woven n fabr fabric ic

Seam for loosely woven fabric

Seams for sheer fabric

- shee sheerr fa fabr bric ic - th thic ick k fa fabr bric ic - stre stretc tch h fabr fabric ic 

(6) A (6) A wide seam allowance Seam for thick fabric Seam for stretch fabric is require required d for inserting inserting a zip fastener, fastener, e.g. skirt placket (1.5 to 3.5cm). Wide Wide seam seam allowa allowances nces,, known known as inlays, inlays, are also also requi required red wher where e a garment is specifically constructed for altering and letting out (1.5 to 3.5 Wide seam allowances cm).


The type of corners at the intersection of two perimeter lines can be varied according to the method of production, the type of fabric and whether notches notches are required. required. The selectio selection n and method of changing changing these these types types of corners will vary according to the different computer systems. The following examples are a selection of the most often used corner types: corners are corners are used where a seam seam is pressed pressed open open and the the contou contourr of the intersect intersecting ing perimeter perimeter line is continued.

Mirrored

corners can corners can be used where the seam is pressed in one direction.

Square

Mirrored corners

Square corners

mitred corner is corner is clipped off straight and perpendicular to the corner to remove excess fabric.

A

shaped corner removes corner removes more excess fabric fabric by clipping clipping off off a double double mitred mitred corner. corner.

A

A mitred corner

A shaped corner


Hem allowance The shape of the hemline influences the influences the width of the hem allowance. A straight hem lies flat when folded back so the hem can be quite wide. Curved hems do not lie flat when folded back and therefore the hem width has to be reduced. The corners at each end of the hem also have to be considered so that the turned up hem mirrors the intersecting seam.

Straight hem

Circular hem Straight hem with mirrored corners


Facing A facing neatens the edge of edge of a garment. It can be an extension of a garment part or cut separately. It is generally concealed by turning underneath to the inside of the garment. It can can also turn turn back back to be reve reveale aled d on the the face face side. side. B  Facing a buttoned opening B- butt button on diam diameter eter  Extended facing B B g n i c a f

Button F C

WS

Faci Facing ng a butt button oned ed open openin ing g

Exte Extend nded ed faci facing ng

stand


Lining the Suit Jacket Easy allowance is required on linings for two reasons. 

Cloth garment garment pieces „spread“ „spread“ a little little when tthey hey are cut out. Extra ease allowance is required on linings because lining fabrics do not relax in the same manner. The amount amount of ease require required d will vary depending depending on the cloth used for the garment.



The lining lining should should also be loose enough to prevent prevent the garment being pulled out of shape when the lining is inserted. Particular Particular stress points are the armholes and the centre back. Note: Some bespoke tailors cut linings from the cloth pieces of the garment, specific ease is then added at the stress points.

Fabric_Form and Flat Pattern Cutting_ Designing Patterns

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