Rundschau System for Trousers 1959 Tabloid

Rundschau Cutting System for Trousers • from Der Zuschnitt XVI Edition • 1959

The Basic Trouser System The Measures Side seam to top of heel Inseam to top of heel Waist measure Seat measure Difference between waist and seat Hem measure

= = = = = =

104 cm 80/40 cm 84/42 cm 100/50 cm 16 cm 42/21 cm

The Foundations Diagram 530 start square here height of knee = ½ inseam + 1/10 of full length of inseam (altogether = 48 cm) L-S inseam according to measure = 80 cm L-B side seam according to measure = 104 cm S-G height of seat = 1/10th of half seat + 3 cm L-L1 shorten at the hem by ca. 4 cm for hem width of 42 cm (It is always recommended that the side and leg seams be measured to the top of the heel and recorded in the measurements book. This forms a certain reference point for all trousers including variations according to hem width and taste.) L-B L-K

Square upwards joining L1, K, S, G, B

Measuring from left to right:

Top Side Width and Centre Crease Diagram 531 Adjustment at the hip = 2/10th difference of seat and waist measures (here 16cm) = 3.2cm Example: Seat = 100 cm Waist = (-) 84 cm Difference = 16 cm 2/10th of 16cm = 3.2 cm B-b

b-B1 Top side width = ¼ waist measure (without ease for pleats) B1- Place square vertically to find points g and S1 g-G1 point of fork (right side) = 1/10th of half seat + 1 cm G-G1 Find point M (the centre crease line) the half way point between G-G1 M- Square upwards and downwards from point M. The distance between G-M can also be carried over to L1-M2 (For a more open leg stance subtract 1 to 2 cm from G-M)

Fork and Leg Width Diagram 532

The Completed Topside without Pleats Diagram 533

The Foundations of the Underside Diagram 534

M2-a/b The width of topside is dependent on the width of foot. With a narrow foot, the width of top side is ½ hem measure minus 1 cm. With wider hems widths, the width of topside is ½ foot width minus 2 cm. a- For the hollow of side seam, move in 1 cm. Extend the guideline to G forming K1 at knee level. b- For the hollow of leg seam move guideline in 1 cm, to G1; find K2 at knee height, go upwards to S2, the right fork. g- Displace guideline 2 cm deeper downwards, to S2; place square on guideline and join S1 to n

b-b1 Allowance to waistband to hold on the topside while sewing on the waistband = 1 cm. b1-a Shape side seam as shown. Note the gentle hollowing towards the bottom. b1- Raise corner of band edge up by ¾ to 1 cm. Complete line to M1 with a gradual curve. B1-S2 Complete the fly edge towards the right side as shown; place about 1 cm deeper than n B1-b2 Left fly edge is given an extra ¾ cm so that it hides the seam of the right fly on the finished trouser. S2-S3 Addition for the left side = 1.5 cm b2-S3 fly edge for the left side finished as shown in the diagram S2-b Leg seam for the right side. Note gradual hollowing. S3-K2 leg seam for the left side

Lines are drawn across for the bottom of the leg, height of knee, height top of leg seam, height of seat extended outwards on both sides Hem width for the underside = displace 2.5 cm each side. K1/K2 Knee width for underside = displace 3 cm each side. c/d Displace each side by 1 cm. K3/c side seam guideline K4/d leg seam guildeline M-m centreline = displace 1 cm Seat breadth = ¼ seat width + 5 cm additional = 30 cm a/b

(For trousers without pleats, the width of the waistband on the topside at the level of the hips becomes somewhat narrower, usually something desirable when the pleats are left out) m-S6 Depth of back fork seam = ¼ seat breadth (30 = 7.5 cm) S-S5 Standard angle = placement 1.5 cm higher.

M2-M Extend centreline upwards.

Should the trouser be more crooked and thereby have greater length of seat, the square is placed at S. If the underside is very straight, the square is placed higher than S5 so that its shortens the seam. The desired angle (straighter/more crooked) can be achieved by altering the placement of the square. S5-S6 Lay down square. Draw guideline upwards from S6-B3 S6-B3 Find point G2 at midway between S6-B3 G2-G3 breadth of seat (as calculated previously by the formula ¼ seat width + 5cm ease = 30cm) K3-G3 side seam guideline K3-B4 Length of topside K1-b1 is carried over to here. M3-B4 Sweep across in an arc to find the height of the underside and mark point B5 B5-B6 shorten by 1 cm for height of waistband B6-B4 waistband guideline G3-m Measure this distance... m-G4 ...and carry over the measure after adding 1cm to find the point of the leg seam. G4-K4 Make leg seam guideline and form point S4 The Completed Underside Diagram 535 Tip of leg seam = displacement downwards ½ cm S4-d Form leg seam according to pattern. B6-B7 Breadth of waist = ¼ waist width + 2.5 to 3 cm B7-B4 = shortfall or excess B4-c Complete side seam elegantly according to diagram. B6-S4 Seat seam is completed as shown Darts: the leftover width is given to the darts which form completed seam. The form and position is as shown. S4-

B6-B4 waistband edge as per diagram Narrow trousers in particular must be worked up with the iron to keep their shape. All edges allow for ¾ cm seam allowance. The seam and darts represent completed seams. Inlays need to be added.

1. The side seam length (taken down to the top of the heel of the shoe) 2. The inseam length Dia. 530 • The Foundations

Dia. 531 • Top Side Width and Centre Crease

Dia. 532 • Fork and Leg Width

Dia. 533 • The Completed Topside without Pleats

Dia. 534 • The Foundations of the Underside

Dia. 535 • The Completed Underside