Sewing for Beginners 3rd Edition 2016 UK

W E N

Sewing

Everything you need to start creating today

Master your machine Make your own clothes Perfect seams and hems All major stitches covered

1 6 creative projects

W elcom e to

Sew ing A key life skill as well as a fun hobby,there is no reason why you shouldn’t pick up a needle needle and learn how to sew.Perhaps you want to fix the odd tear in your jeans or make alterations to your garments – maybe maybe you’re even a budding budding fashion designer designer with a creative c reative itch to scratch.Either way,this book will teach you all the essentials necessary to start stitching.We run through all the basic sewing techniques and lingo,before introducing you to your new best friend:the sewing machine.Explore this powerful gadget and master its seemingly endless functions – you’ll be b e loading a b obbin obbin or attaching a zipper foot foot befor b efore e you know it!Learn the different types of stitches and their uses,and discover various types of pleats,tucks and darts to use in your creations. Finally,enjoy a chapter of fun beginner-level projects that will help you practise your brand new skills.H skills.Have ave fun creating!

Sewing Imagine Publishing Ltd Richmond H ouse 33 Richmond H ill B ournemouth Dorset BH2 6EZ  +44 (0)1202 5 8620 0 Website: www.imagi ne-publishing.co.uk Twitter: @ Books_Imagine Facebook: www.face book.com/ImagineB ookazines Publishing Director

Aaron As adi Head of Design

Ross Andrews Editor in Chief

Jon White Production Editor

Fiona H udson Senior Art Editor

Greg Whitaker Senior Designer

Sarah Bellman Written by C innamon Miles Printed by William G ibbons,2 6 PlanetaryR oad,Willenhall,West Midlands,WV13 3 XT Distributed in the UK, Eire & the Rest of the World by: Marketforce,5 C hurchill Place,C anary Wharf,London,E14 5H U Tel 020 3 78 7 9 06 0 www.marketforce.co.uk Distributed in Australia by: G ordon & G otch Australia Pty Ltd,26 R odborough Road,Frenchs Forest,NS W,20 86 Australia Tel +6 1 2 99 72 8 80 0 www.gordongotch.com.au Disclaimer The publisher cannot accept responsib ility for any unsolicited material lost or damaged in the post. All text and layout is the copyright of Imagine Publis hing Ltd.Nothing in this bookazine may be re produced in whole or part without the written permiss ion of the publisher.All copyrights are recognise d and use d specifi cally for the purpose of criticism and review.Although the bookazine has endeavoured to ensure all information is correct at time of print,prices and availability may change.This booka zine is fully independent and not affiliated in anyway with the companies mentioned herein.

This bookazine is published under licence from D orling Kindersley Limited.All rights in the licensed material belongto D orling Kindersley Limited and it may not be reproduced,whether in whole or in part,without the prior written consent of D orling Kindersley Limited.© 20 16 D orling Kindersley Limited. The content in this book appeared previously in The Idiot’s G uide to Sewing,publis hed by Alpha Books, a division of DorlingK indersley Limited. Sewing for Beginners Third Edition © 20 16 Imagine PublishingLtd

Contents Setting up

G etting started

10

Pins and needles

30

Straightstitch an d zigzag stitch

11

M easuring tools

31

Backstitch

12

Cutting tools

32

Ten sion

13

Pressi ng tools

33

Tips forsew ing by hand

14

Fabric defined

34

Types ofstitches

16

Fab ric types

36

Sew ing and pressing a straightseam

17

Preparing yourfab ric

38

Seam finishes

18

A natom y ofa sew ing m achine

39

Sew ing a hem

19

M achine needles

40

Curved seam s

20

Threading a sew ing m achine

44

Sew ing corners

22

Loading a bobbin

48

Types oftrim

26

Sew ing m achine feet

50

Sew n in seam

27

Adjusting the ten si on and stitches

51

Edge trim s

52

Piping

54

U sing bias tape

58

M ake your ow n bias tape

30

54

6 Sewing for Beginners

The next step

Creative projects

64

G athering a ruffl e

126 Bookm ark

66

Shirring w ith elastic thread

127 Infinity scarf

68

M aking draw string ties

128 PeterPan collar

70

Sew ing w ith elastic

129 Lace-em bellished tank

74

U sing a zipper foot

130 Q uilted potholder

76

Inserting a zipper

133 M onogram m ed key fob

80

U sing a buttonhole foot

134 Pleated pillow case

84

O pening a button hole

138 Pepperm intcoasters

86

Sew ing a button by hand

142 Elastic-w aistskirt

88

Knife pleats

146 Feltcoff ee cozy

90

Box pleats

149 Sew ing m achine cover

92

Tucks

152 Pincushion

94

D arts

156 D raw string flat pack

96

A pplying appliqué

162 Picnic blanket

100 Types ofquilting

166 M ake-up brush holder

nterfacing 104 U sing i

170 A ppliqué pillow

106 Pockets 108 Attach ing a collar 110 Setting a sleeve

Reference

76

162

174 Sew ing glossary

112 M aking a w aistband 114 Curved hem s 116 French seam s

170

118 Reading the envelope 120 U nderstand ing m arking s 122 Laying outand cutting

Sew ing for Beginners 7

Setting up What to do before you start

8

10

Pins and needles

11

M easuring tools

12

Cutting tools

13

Pressi ng tools

14

Fabric defined

16

Fab ric types

17

Preparing fabric

18

A natom y ofa sew ing m achine

19

M achine needles

20

Threading a sew ing m achine

22

Loading a bobbin

26

Sew ing m achine feet

27

Adjusting the ten si on

Sewing for Beginners


Setting up

Pins and needles So m any pins,needles,cushions,and threaders are available to choose from at the fabric store, that it’s hard to know w here to start.The follow ing are a few basic types you need to get started.You can add to your collection as you discover w hat types you do and don’t like and w hich things you use the m ost 1.Steel straight pins with colorful glass heads are easy to see and use, and they won’t melt under a hot iron. 2.A magnetic “pincushion” is one of my most favorite tools.Just swipe it over your sewing table or even the

1

floor and watch it magically pickup any loose pins! 3.A stuffed pincushion allows pins to stand upright

2

so they’re easy to grab when you only have one free hand.It also keeps the point of the p ins clean and sharp because they’re not exposed to dust and moisture.Some varieties even attach right to your sewing machine. 4.Safety pins are used to pull elastic through casings. They can also be used in p lace of p ins if you’re

3

working on a large project you want to fold up and save for later. 5.H and-sewing needles come in a variety of sizes for both the eye and the length/width of the needle. It’s good to always have a variety packof needles on

4

hand;you never know when you might need a supersmall one for something delicate or a larger one for thick, tough fabric. 6.A needle threader can be a useful tool if you have trouble seeing that tiny needle eye or have shaky hands.You can use it on either a hand-sewing needle or a machine needle.

5 6

10


“A needle threader can be a usefultoolifyou have trouble seeing that tiny needle eye or have shaky hands”

Measuring tools M easuring and m arking tools are som ething you’llw ant to have on hand w hen w orking on sew ing projects.You can choose from a variety oftools,based on your personalpreference. H ere are a few ofthe essentials

1

2 1.A seam gauge is a small ruler with a sliding marker.It’s used to measure

3

out even hems or evenly spaced pleatsor tucks. 2.Washable cloth-marking pencils are used to make markings on fabric and these can be removed with water.These are used for transferring guidelines on patterns to the cut pieces. 3.A clear,plastic ruler is used for basic measuring, marking buttonholes, lining up the grain, and

4

marking p leats.It is also used with a rotary cutter to make long, straight cuts with extra precision. 4.A water-erasable marker is used in the same way as a marking pencil. It is also used to mark while fitting a garment on a person.Be cautious not to iron over these marks— the heat will set them in the fabric,

5

making them permanent! 5.A flexible tape measure is used for taking measurements of the body so you can create properly sized garments.It’s usually 60 inches (152.4 cm)in length and has centimeter markings on the opposite side.

Sewing for Beginners 11

Setting up

Cutting tools G ood-quality cutting tools are key to successfulsew ing,so buy the best shears and scissors you can afford and keep them sharp.That w ay,you’llavoid the frustration ofdull blades and w asted fabric! 1.Tiny 4-inch (10 cm) embroidery snips or scissors have a very fine, super-sharp p oint that’s perfect for trimming thread close to the fabric. 2.Fabric shears are what you’ll use to cut large pieces of fabric. A pair of high-quality shears that can be sharpened can last for a lifetime.However, be sure you only cut fabric with

1 2

them;using them to cut paper or other materials can dull the blades over time! 3.Paper scissors or old shears can be used to cut paper, patterns,tape, and fusible p roducts.They can’t be used on fabric because the blades aren’t sharp enough to result in a smooth, clean cut.

3

4.Pinking shears are used to trim seams to keep edges from raveling.It’s good to have them on hand, but if you don’t, you can finish your edges with some of the techniques taught in this book. 5.A seam ripper is used to remove stitching.The name is a bit misleading, because there isn’t any ripping happ ening at

4

all— it merely involves sliding the hook under the stitches and letting the small blade at the base cut through the thread. N o matter how accomplished you might be at sewing, you’ll have to take out a seam at some point, so this tool is a must. 6.A rotary cutter with a self-healing cutting mat is used

5

to cut through many layers of fabric.You can get it in several sizes (the rotary cutter pictured is on the small side).It has a very sharp blade, so always use it with extreme caution.

6

“N o m atter how accom plished you m ight be at sew ing,you’llhave to take out a seam at som e point,so this toolis a m ust” 12 Sewing for Beginners

Pressing tools Pressing is often the step that gets skipped over in a sewing project.Take the time to press when your instructions recommend it – it’s key for creating a nicely finished product.For the best results,press on the wrong side of the fabric and use a pressing cloth when necessary to protect both the iron’s surface and your fabric 1.A narrow sleeve b oard is a small version of an ironing board that’s used to press small areas or seams in narrow spaces. 2.A full-size ironing board is a safe surface on which you can iron your fabric.Be sure to keep the cover of this essential tool clean so you don’t transfer sticky residues

1

or marks onto your fabric. 3.The curved end of a small w ooden point turner is used for finger pressing.You use your fingertip to firmly press and slide the curved end along the fabric fold to create a crisp crease or line. 4.A rolled tow elis used to press curved seams or sleeve seams op en without creasing the fabric.It’s similar to a tailor’s ham or seam roll, but most beginning sewers

2

don’t have those tools on hand and can cheaply and easily use a rolled towel in place of them.

4

5.A pressing cloth is a thin p iece of cotton fabric used

3

between an iron and the main fabric to protect both the iron’s surface from sticky residues due to fusible webs and the fabric from iron shine.

5

6.A steam iron is the most essential tool for p ressing! Choose a high-quality iron that has a wide range of temp eratures and can p ress with or without the steam function.Unless otherwise stated in the sewing instructions, you’ll use a steam iron for pressing.

6

“A rolled towel can be used to press curved seams or sleeve seams open without creasing the fabric” Sewing for Beginners 13

Setting up

Fabric defined Choosing the right fabric can m ake or break your project.It is essentialto understand w hat m akes up a piece offabric and w hat it is m eant to be used for.There is a large variety offabrics out there to choose from ,so understanding these elem ents w illhelp you to m ake the right choices for your project               

Selvage

             warp threads  weft threads  selvage   

Bias

                    right side          

Right side

          wrong side          

Wrong side

    bias                                

Weft

“The selvage is the finished edge ofthe fabric.It is tightly w oven and w on’t fray,but generally it has a bit ofa different color” 14  

Warp

Yardage

Inches/cm

Yardage conversion chart

1 8

4 ⁄/ 1 11 1.4

1 4

9 / 23

1 3

12 / 30.5

3 8

13 12⁄/34.25

1 2

18 / 45.75

5 8

22 12⁄/57

2 3

24 / 61

3 4

27 / 68.5

7 8

31 12⁄ / 80

⁄

1 2

⁄ ⁄ ⁄ ⁄ ⁄ ⁄ ⁄ ⁄

Fabric Fab ric is i s avail ava ilabl ab le to purch p urchase ase in i n a variety var iety ofw idths.I idth s.It is rol ro lled onto b olts;you take the b olts to a cutting cutti ng counter to have the specific specific am ount needed m easured and cut offthe bolt. Sew ing patterns have charts that that specify specify the am ount offabric abr ic needed. needed.M M ost yardage yardage m easurem easurem ents w illbe for for a standard standard 44-to 45-inch45inch-w ide fabric. ab ric.But But w hat should you do ifyou w ant to use a fabric ab ric that is,for exam p le,60 e,60 inches w ide? The chart b elow w ill help you to m ake easy conversions conversio ns ifyou p lan to use a fab fabric ric that com es in a different w idth.

1 yard = 36 inche i nchess (91.5 cm)

Fabric Width Yardage

35 -3 6"

39"

4 1"

4 4-45 "

5 0"

52 -5 4 "

60 "

1 34⁄

1 12⁄

1 12⁄

1 38⁄

1 14⁄

1 18⁄

1

2

1 34⁄

1 34⁄

1 58⁄

1 12⁄

1 38⁄

1 14⁄

2 14⁄

2

2

1 34⁄

1 58⁄

1 12⁄

1 38⁄

2 12⁄

2 14⁄

2 14⁄

2 18⁄

1 34⁄

1 34⁄

1 58⁄

2 78⁄

2 12⁄

2 12⁄

2 14⁄

2

1 78⁄

1 34⁄

3 18⁄

2 34⁄

2 34⁄

2 12⁄

2 14⁄

2

1 78⁄

3 38⁄

3

2 78⁄

2 34⁄

2 38⁄

2 14⁄

2

3 34⁄

3 14⁄

3 18⁄

2 78⁄

2 58⁄

2 38⁄

2 14⁄

4 14⁄

3 12⁄

3 38⁄

3 18⁄

2 34⁄

2 58⁄

2 38⁄

4 34⁄

4

3 78⁄

3 58⁄

3 14⁄

2 78⁄

2 34⁄

5

4 14⁄

4 18⁄

3 78⁄

3 38⁄

3 18⁄

2 78⁄

Note:You might need to adjust the amounts for fabrics that have stripes,plaids,or large prints so the pieces line up. up.Also, Also,if if you’re extending extendin g one measurement and narrowing another, ano ther,check check to b e sure that the width of your pattern pieces will still fit on the piece of fabric. Sew ing for Begi eg inners 15

Setting up

Fabric types You choose choose fab abric ric for a sew ing proj p rojec ectt base b ased d on its its look ook, ,feel,and use. use.Becaus ecause e w ading through the m any fab abric ric typ typ es availab abl le can be b e prett p retty y overw helm ing, ing,here’ here’s a list ofthe basic types and their generaluse

F

irst,a word word about ab out what makes fabrics different. Woven fabric includes everything from lightweight to thick and heavy, heav y,b b ut the defining def ining factor is that th at it’s woven on a loom.Knitted fabrics are either warp knitted

or weft weft knitted. knitted.

Warp Warp knit is done by b y machine and is c comm ommonly only found fo und in tricot, milanese, and raschel raschel varieties.Weft knit knit can be b e done do ne either eith er by by hand or o r by machine and is commonly found fo und in double-k do uble-knit, interlo interlock ck,, jersey-knit, ersey-knit, p urlurl-knit, and rib rib-knit varieties.O f the two, two , warp knitted has the most stretch.

Solid olid cotton is one of the most basic types of fabric S

D irect irection ion of nap nap

This p iece iece of corduroy corduroy fabric is cut and laid out w with ith the nap facing facing in opp op p osite directions.See the slight difference in the shade of the color? Corduroy, velvet, suede, and flannel are some of the types of fabrics that have pile or nap.The threads on the surface of the fabric are are raised and can can be b e smoo smoothed thed down d own with your hand.W hand .When hen you slide your hand in one direct d irection, ion, causing the threads to lay flat, it feels smooth;when you slide it in the other direction, causing the thread to stand up, it feels rough. Your p attern attern p ieces ieces must be cut following the nap aswell asthe grain.When p ieces are sewn together together with the nap nap going in different d ifferent directions, directions,the color of the the fabric will look different.To make sure this is done, you may need additional fabric for a patt p attern ern beca b ecause use piecesneed to be laid out o ut in a sp ecific ecific direction— direction— be sure to to look loo k for that meas measurement.


and comes in a variety of weights and solid colors. This pop po p ular fabric doesn’ doesn’t have stretc stretch h and can be machine machine washed and d dried ried (though doing doing so will shrin shrink it). Printed P  rinted cotton is probably the most popular fabric choice choice because because it’s cute cute and and easy to sew with, w ith, comes comes in a variety of o f weights, weights, and and doesn’ do esn’t have stretch. stretch. Printed designs can range from tiny to large, so pay special attention to matching the larger designs on the seamswhen using using p rinted cotton. Wool  ool is a woven fabric fabric made from sheep fleece that’s W sp un into yarn.W yarn .Wool ool is used to make coats,tailored garments garments,, and hom home e décor p rojects, ects, among among other things. things.Any Any garments garm ents or proj p rojects using this fabric usually usually have to be b e dry dr y cleaned. cleaned. of t, fuzzy, knit fabric fabric with a little bit b it of F Fleece leece is a soft, stretch.You can find thick and thin thin typ es of fleece, as well as sweats sweatshirt hirt fleece, in which the th e fabric is smo smooth oth on one o ne side. side. Corduroy orduroy is a woven fabric with raised parallel lines, C called wales,that can can be b e narrow or wide.This wide.This fabric is easy easy to sew with, is machine was w ashable, hable, and and has really great durability. soft, t, stretchy, tretchy, and and very comfor com fortable.You table.You Knit fabric is sof can find knits in a variety of weights with two-way or fourfour-way stretch.This stretch.This fabric can be used to mak make all sorts of clothing items and is machine washable. Silk is is a lightweight, delicate fabric often used in clothing items.This fabric can be sheer or slippery, and is usually meant to be dry cleaned only.The cut edges on silk will fray, fray, so the th e seams need to be be finished well.

Preparing your fabric You’ve chosen your p attern and decided on fab abric. ric.N N ow ,allyou need to do is p rep repare are the fab abric, ric,and and you can begin b egin sew ing!

Preshrinking When making clothing, preshrinking the fabrics is essential.You can do this in several ways. Before purchasing fabric, be sure to note the fabric-washing instructions instructions on the end of the bolt. b olt.Some fabricsare preshrunk by the manufacturer. First off, before you get started, you should wash the fabric, and even the notions, no tions, the same same way you would wou ld after you’ you ’d wear it.You definitely definitely

want to have the shrinki hrin king ng happ h app en before before you mak m ake the proj pro ject instead instead of after to to avoid disap disap p ointment. If the fabric fabric is dry dr y clean only, have it cleaned cleaned p rior to cutting cutting it out, ou t, since since dry-c d ry-cleaned leaned items can can sometimes shrink.You can also steam steam p ress a drydr y-clean-only clean-only fabric.Simply lay out your fabric, steam evenly over your fabric horizontally or vertically, and let it dry flat.The steam released will shrink shrink up the fabric.

Before preshrinking,b preshrinking,b e sure to note which side of the fabric fab ric is the right side.Some side.Some fabrics fab rics look very similar on both sides,so once the sizing is washed away,it can be hard to determine which side is which.To avoid this problem,make a small mark with a permanent marker on the corner of the fabric.

Checking the fabric grain To check if the fabric is on grain, you should do the following: 1.Pull on the crosswise or warp threads near the end of the p iece iece of fabric. 2.As 2.As you pull p ull them, you will see the fabric bunch bun ch up like a gather gather along the cut end.Trim along this line to have a precise straight edge. 3.Fold 3.Fold the fabric lengthwise, lengthwise, and and line up the selvage edges ed ges and cross crosswise ends. end s.I If the fabric fab ric is smooth, mooth, it is on grain;if lays unevenly, unevenly, however, it ismost most likely off of f grain, unfortunately. To fix fabric fabric that’s off grain grain,, you can steam p ressthe fabric fabric while it’ it’s still folded fold ed by by securing the selvage edges and pressing toward the fold. Even if the fabric is on grain, you should always go over it with an iron to remove large wrinkles wrinkles from p rewashing.You want the fabric to to lay flat flat when pinning p inning and cutting cutting the p attern attern p ieces ieces. .

What is a fat quarter? A fat quarter is an 18 x 2020 -or 18 x 2222-inch (45.75 x 51 cm)p iece of woven cotton fabric often used for p atc atchwork or appliqué. app liqué. The standard standard width of q uilting cotton cotton fabric fab ric is is 44 inche inches s (111.75 cm).To make a fat quarter, quarter, the fabr fabric ic is cut at 1⁄2 yard (45.75 cm), which which results results in a piece p iece that that measures measures 18 x 44 4 4 inche inches s (45. 45.75 x 111.75 cm).The piece p iece isthen cut in half half again to create two pieces that are more square than rectangular.A rectang ular.A 1⁄4 yard (23 cm) cut off the bolt bo lt would measure 9 x 44 inche inches s (23 x 111.75 cm).This .This then then give gives s the user a much more versatile piece to work with. Fat quarters come individually p ack ackaged or in cute bundles of coordinating p rints and and solids.You olids.You can can find them in the same section as the quilting cotton at your local fabric store.


Setting up

Anatomy of a sewingmachine W hile severaldifferent types ofsew ing m achines exist,m ost have the sam e basic parts and features.H ere’s a generalbreakdow n ofthe features ofa sew ing m achine (refer to your m achine’s m anualfor specifics) 3 1

2

4

5

6 7

H andw heel

8

9

Pow er button

10

Pow er cord jack

11 14

Spoolpin

15

13 12

Buttonhole lever

H andle

Above 1.Thread guide 2.Tension dial 3.Bobbin w inder 4.O peration panel 5.H andw heel 6.Take-up lever 7.Speed control 18 Sewing forBeginners

8.Thread cutter 9.Needle position 10.Reverse stitch 11.Needle threader 12.Bobbin thread guide 13.Bobbin housing 14.Throat plate 15.Stitch selection chart

Foot controller jack

Presser foot lever

Feed dog position

Presser foot

Machine needles D ifferent types offabrics require different types ofneedles.Although a universalneedle can w ork on a variety offabric types and w eights,it’s best to use the proper needle for your project to achieve the best results.H ere are som e ofthe com m on types,along w ith instructions on how to replace your needle U niversalneedles can be used on a variety offabrics, both knit and w oven

M icrotex or sharp needles w ork w ith silk, foils,and faux leathers

Tw in needles are used to create tw o p arallelrow s ofstitching (for exam ple,jeans topstitching)

Jersey or b allpoint needles are used on knits and stretch fabrics

N otice the tiny stopper inside the needle shaft;slide the needle up to this point

01 Loosen needle clamp

02 Pull out needle

Low erthe presserfoot,orrem ove the footto have m ore space.To

Pullou tthe needle.N otice the directi on the fl at side ofthe needle fitsin

release the need le,loosen the needle clam p screw by hand orw ith the

the slot,tow ard the back orthe front.Insertthe new needle into place,

sm allscrew driverthatcam e w ith your m achine.

and tighten the screw to secure. Sew ing forBeginners 19

Setting up

Threading a sewing machine W hile the first tim e you thread your m achine m ay seem a bit overw helm ing,once you have done it a few tim es,it’llbecom e second nature.Each m achine m ay thread a bit differently,but the basic thread path is the sam e.To get you started,here’s a generaldescription

The thread w illslide in or under the guide

The take-up lever m ust be positioned at the top

D on’t m iss the last thread guide here

20 Sewing forBeginners

Check your m anualfor the direction the thread should unw ind

Be sure to guide the thread down into the slot

01 G uide thread from

the spool

Place the thread on the spool.Pull the thread off of the spool and guide itthrough the first thread guide mounted on top of the machine.

02 Pullforw

ard into slot

M ovethe thread along the thread guide.Pull itforward and

slide itinto the narrow slot,guiding ittoward the bottom of the machine.

Keep the thread in the curved slot Be sure to thread the needle from frontto back

04 Finalthread guide 03 U p

to take-up lever

In the narrow slot,pull the thread around the curve and backup to the top of the machine.Thiswill bring you to the take-up lever.

Slide the thread through the take-up

lever and backdown to the needle.(The thread will go backinto the same narrow slot.)Pull it through the final thread guide,just above the needle,and thread the needle from front to back. Sewing for Beginners 21

Setting up

Loading a bobbin N ow that you’ve got your upper thread allfigured out,you’llneed to learn how to w ind and load the bobbin.H ere,Ishow you the basics for understanding your bobbin.Be sure to look at your m achine m anualfor specifics – som e m ight even have an illustrated diagram that show s you exactly w hat path to follow


Lots ofb obbin storage options are available to keep yourbobbins neatand tidy

The im ages in this exam

01 W rap around bobbin w ind er

Bobbins are specific to your m

Bring the thread around the front ofthe bobbin w inder thread guide.

ple show both m etaland plastic bobbins. achine m odel,so m ake sure you know w hich one your m achine uses w hen looking to purchase som e additionalbobbins.

W rap it around the bobbin in the direction show n for your m achine (clockw ise here).

Ifyourm achine doesn’th ave the thread cutteron the base,you wou ld guid e the thread through the tiny hole in the top of the b ob bin and h old while winding

02 Pullthrough G uide the thread to the bobbin and w rap

it around the bobbin tw o or three tim es in a clockw ise direction.Pullthe thread through the slit in the base.

03 Click into place N ow push the bobbin w inder to the right.It w illclick neatly into place.For som e m achines you m ay have to push the lever tow ard the stationary bobbin w inder instead.N ext,follow the steps based on your type ofbobbin. Sew ing for Beginners 23

Setting up Top-loading bobbin

01 Place bobbin

02 G uide thread

Rem ove the bo bb in hou sing cover.Place the bo bb in into the hole,

Slide the thread into the slit.Be sure to startatthe frontofthe op ening so the thread goes throu gh the tension-ad justing spring.Fo llow the

follow ing the gu ide forthe directi on the thread should unw ind .

path up and aroun d.

03 Cut thread

04 Rep lace cover

Pu llthread to the end ofthe path along the tiny thread cutter.H old the

Rep lace the bo bb in cover, being carefulto insertitin the prop er direction.The m achine w illdraw up the bo bb in thread on the firststitch.

bo bb in w ith yourfingerand pullto cutthe thread .

24 Sew ing forBeginners

Front-loading bobbin

01 Slide in b obbin

02 Pulllever and click into p lace

Slide the bo bb in into the bo bb in case, w ith the thread un w inding in

Pulloutthe sm allleveron the case to hold the bo bb in in place.Slide the

the directi on stated in yourm anual.Pullthe thread back into the sli tand

com bined bo bb in and bo bb in case into the bo bb in ho using, paying

underthe thread guide atthe top ofthe case.

close attenti on to the fit.Itshould click into place.

A closer look at the needle p late The needle plate, also called a throatplate, ism arked w ith lines to help you sew a straightseam . You referto these m arkingsfor seam allow ances.

The m arking for5⁄8 inch (1.5 cm )up atthe top isthe standard form ostsew ing projects, w ith the exception ofd ollclothes, w hich are usually setat1⁄ 4 inch (.6 cm ).A corresponding line m arking isatthe frontofthe plate to help you keep yourfabri c lined up co rrectly.

The foursm allrow sofm etal teeth underthe foot are called feed dogs.These gen tly pullthe fabric underthe footasyou sew .

Sew ing forBeginners 25

Setting up

Sewing machine feet A variet variety y offeet are availab abl le for m ost sew ing m achines. achines.For For m ost beginnerb eginner-levelproject ects, s, you’ you ’lluse the the stand st andard ard foo oott (also cal called a zigzag foo oot)t t)that hat com com es on on your your m ach achine ine.A .Ass you p rogr rogress ess and and are are ready ready to tr try y other other typ t ypes es ofp ofproj rojec ects,though,you’ ts,though,you’lllikely w ant to use the the app ap p rop ropriate riate type typ e ofsew ing m achine foot.The follow ing discusses the different typ es and gives a short tutorialfor repl rep lacing one on your m achine 2

1

7

6

1.O 1.O vercasting vercasting foot: foot:This fo ot is des de sig ned ne d to sew

3

justp tp astthe edge of

gu id es the edge ofthe ofthe fab ri c, w hile the tiny m etalgui algu id e insid e h old s

stitch a b lind hem by keep in g the n eed le att atthe cor co rrectd ct distance an ce from the hem .A b lin d hem is b arely visib le from the rightsid e ofthe ofthe fab ri c. an d ard, al l-p urp ose fo otthatcom atcom es 6.Zigzag 6.Zigzag foot:This is the stand on the m achi ach in e.Ithasa hasa w id e op ening fort orthe need ne edl le, w hich can can

the fab ri c flat.I .Itw orksg ksgreatw eat w ith kn its! on a tw o -orf orfour-

hole b utton .Itw orksby ksby usi n g a zig zag stitch ch setat etatze zer ro leng en g th. erfoot, thi his fo ot is 3.I 3.Invisib le zipper foot: foot :A lso called a con cealed zip p erf used spe p ecifically fori orinvisib le zip p ers.Invisib le zip p ersar ersare easy to install and are hid d en undert underthe edge ofthe ofthe fabr b ri c, m aking them invisib le

sertal alltypes ltyp es ofzip p ers;it’ s 7.Zipper 7.Zipper foot:This fo ot is used to insert d esi gn ed to allow the n eed le to sew rig htalon g raised ed zip p ert erteet ee th . You can can also use use itto insert sertp p ip ing .

8.Monogramming 8.Monogramming foot:This fo otis used to create m

onog ram s by

you to see the stitch ing undert underthe fo ot asy asyou sew .

au tom atical cally sew b utton h oles ata ata vari ety ofleng en g ths.The b utton fits

hassm allgr lg roves in itto g uid e the trim 9.Cording 9.Cording foot:This fo othassm

and

keep itexactl xactly w here you w anti antit.Itw tw orksw ksw ith b oth a straightor

into the back to d eterm ine the size. e. ne d w ith a gu id e to allow 5.Blind 5.Blind stitch foot:This fo otis desig ned

accom accom m od ate a variety ofstitch styles.

usi ng the free -m otion sew ing tech niq ue.Ithasa hasa clear eararea thatal atallow s

from the o utsi d e.

4.Buttonhole 4.Buttonhole foot:This long, rect ec tang an g ularf arfo ot is d esi gn ed to

26 Sew ing forBegi eg inner ne rs

5

9

8

the fab ri c in a zig zag m otion and finishe hes the edge.The extend ed p art

2.Button 2.Button fitting foot:This fo ot allow s you to sew

4

you to

zig zag stitch .

Adjusting the tension and stitches Severalm ethods are availab abl le for adjusting the tension and stitches on a sew ing m achine (refer to your m anualfor sp ecif ecifics) ics).H ere are are the the butt b uttons ons and and dial dials to look for w hen using a digitalcontrolp digit alcontrolpanel anel:

Stitch length eng th

To adj ad justt stthe ten sion, turn the ten sion d ial.H igh ernum er num bers m ake ake it lo oser;low er e rnum bers m ake ake itti ghter.

Stitch Stitch w idth Stitch num ber

H ere is a selection of stitches stit ches offered ere d on this m achine; achine;the the stitch stitch num ber is identified above each stitch Reverse button

Each type yp e ofstitch hasa hasa cor correspo espond ing num ber, no ted on the fro nt paneloft pan elofthe m achi ach in e.Un e.U n d ern eath the d ig italcon alco ntro lpan lp anelare elaret tw o

N eedle position p osition button

Speed control lever ev er

b utton s to selectt ct the stitch ch num bery beryou w ant.The leftb tb utto n is fort orthe firstnu tnu m b er;the rig htb utto n is fort orthe second nu m b er.Push up ordow ordow n to gett getthe d esired num ber.

The setofb etofb utton s to the rightofthe d ig italdi tald ispl sp lay con co ntrolth e stitch ch

A rever verse b u tton is stand an d ard on m achines ne s, butnot but notal allhave lh ave the n eed le

len g th and w id th.In thi his case, the top b utto n is fort orthe len g th (n ote the

up/dow n p ositi on orspeed orspeed contr controlbu lb uttons.These are tw o very help ful

d otted lin es in the red area above)and the b ottom con co ntrols the w idth

features forsew orsew ing p erfect ec tsti tch es.

(n ote the zig zag line in the red area b elow ).

Sew ing forBegi eg inners 27

G ett ttiing st start rte ed gripswith with the basics basicso of f sewing sewing G et to grips

28

30

Straig h tstitch an and zig za zag g stitch

31

Back Ba ckst stitch

32

Ten si on

33

Tip s fo rsew in g b y h an and d

34

Typ Ty p es ofstitch che es

36

Sew Se w in g and and pr pressin g a straig h tsea eam m

38

Seam finishes

39

Sew ing a hem

40

Cur Cu rve ved d sea eam m s

44

Sew in g corn ers

48

Typ Ty p es oftrim

50

Sew n in seam

51

Edg Ed g e trim s

52

Pip in g Pi

54

U sin g b ias tap ape e

58

M ake your ow n b ias tape

for Beginners Sewing for

“Curved seam s see eem m challen eng ging, butyo you u can create great-looking cur cu rve ves s by follow ing som e sim ple step eps s”


G etting started

Straight stitch & zigzag stitch Sewing a straight line is a basic and important skill to master,as uneven seams affect the fit or look of a project.The multiple variations of a zigzag stitch have functional and decorative uses

Straight stitch

Zigzag stitch

A basic,yet unmissable stitch

For extra security,try this wonky stitch

Thread lines

Width selection

Length selection

01 Secure thread

02 Lower foot to start

Be sure the

Lowerthe foot,and push the pedal to sew.G uide the fabric with your hand sfrom the front.Do notpull.

up perthread is under the footbutoverthe fabric,and both threadsare behind the foot.

Zigzag stitch

N ow let’s practice some straight stitches!Set your stitch length at .5 and sew a straight line.Stop sewing, lift the presser foot, and cut the threads. Slide the fabric over 1/4 inch (.6 cm).Change the stitch length to 1, and sew another row of straight stitches.Continue this process while adjusting the stitch length for each row. 5

1

2

3

.5

2 1

4 3

.5 5


1

4 3

5

5

The shorteststitch length setting creates a satin stitch.Changing the stitch length causesstitches to be closertogetherorspread out.The width ofa stitch doesn’tchange. 30

2

Changing the stitch width adjusts the width ofthe zigzag.The stitches above are allsewn atthe sam e length;only the width has been adjusted.

Backstitch Sew ing a backstitch w illsecure (orknot)yourseam .To sew this stitch,you w illbe using thebackstitch button orlever(depending on yourm odel)

To sew the backstitch

M ostm achines have a curved-arrow icon on the b ackstitch b utton

1

01 Forward stitch Begin by stitching tw o forw ard stitches.

3

2

02 Backward stitch Stop sew

ing,then push the backstitch button and hold it dow n w hile sew ing tw o backw ard stitches.

03 Forward once more Release the button and continue sew ing forw

ard.

Basting:what’s that all about? N otice the difference betw een the tw o row s of basting com pared to the standard-size straight stitch

The basting stitch is used to hold pieces offabric together tem porarily.It is also used to create ease or gathers.To sew this stitch,select the highest num ber on the stitch length selector,usually 5. Rem em ber,basting is m eant to be rem oved – don’tbackstitch!

Sew ing

for Beginners

31

G etting started

Tension At some point, your machine will have issues with tension.In the world of sewing, tension refers to the pressure that’s put on the thread coming from the top.The thread tension dial on the front of a sewing machine is used to adjust the tension.Different fabrics and stitches require different degrees of tension.If your stitching looks uneven or inconsistent, you may have an issue with your tension setting

Correct tension

Incorrect tension; the top thread is too loose

This shows balanced thread pulling from both the top thread and the bobbin thread;it’s the ideal tension.

Incorrect tension;the top thread is too tight

H ere,the top thread is too tight.The bobbin thread is pulled up to the top.You would see the bobbin thread on the topside of the fabric. 32 Sewing for Beginners

In this image,the top thread is too loose.It is pulled all the way through by the bobbin.You would see the thread on the underside of the fabric.

The best advice as it relates to tension issues is to take out both the bobb in and the top thread and re-thread the w hole thing,being sure to guide the thread through the guides and take-up lever. Check to see ifyour bobbin is w ound tight and sm ooth;som etim es they can get tangled on the spool.You can also check the bobbin area for lint buildup and rem ove it ifnecessary.Finally, you canreplace the needle – even a new needle couldbe faulty.

Tip Tips for sew ing ing by hand and Thre Th read adin ing g a ne need edl le

Securing the thread

A trick cky y bu b utnece ces ssary step

For Fo rthat l ittle p eace ofm ind

Th is is called th e eye eye ofthe n eed le

p oke 01 Cut and poke

Pul ulla land nd 02 P

join

With sharp scis scissors sors,, cut cut the end of a thread.Poke the thread through the eye at the top of the needle. need le.

Pull the thread through the eye, and bring brin g up to join the other end of the piec p iece e of thread.

Poke oke and a nd p ull 01 P

02 Repeat

Poke the needle into the fabric and pull back through.Hold the loose thread thread with with a tight grip.

Repeat ep eat the the same stitch, stitch, being

sure to guide the needle under the short tail.

Threading a needle w ith a needl need le thr threade eaderr Inser nsertt the w ire loop through the eye of yourr needl you nee dle. Slide the t he thread thr ead through the w ire loop. 03 P Pul ullthro lthrough ugh 04 Repeat and finish Pullthe w ire loop b ack Pull the thread all the way Repea ep eatt a third time, loop ing around through, throu gh, watching wat ching as a s mall loop the tail once more.Pull tight, and through thr ough the t he needl nee dle. is formed around the tail.Pull tight. trim the th e tail as close close as poss po ssible. Continue Co ntinue to p ullthe thread allthe w ay H and and-sew ing w ith thi thim m bles through thr ough the t he needl nee dle. Thimbles are designed designed to protec p rotectt your finger as you you N ow you’re ready to push a needle through a fabric.When you perform this proces pro cess with a thimblethimb le-covered covered finger finger tip, you’ you ’ll sew se w by hand! hand! see how easily the needle slides through even the thickest of fabrics. Sewing for Beginners 33

G etting started

Types of stitches Though the p ossibilities ar are a little b itm ore lim ited,there are stillse lseve ver ralk lki inds of ofstitch che es you yo u can do d o w hen you’re sew sew ing by hand hand

B ackstitch

Prick stitch D

C

A

C

B

A

B

This stitch stitch is used to create create a strong seam seam .Start by b y bringing the needle up from from the back b ack ofthe fabric at p oint A.I A .Insert your needle back b ack dow n at point B.Bring the th e needl ne edle up a stitch stitc h length ength in front front at point p oint C .Insert nser t the needl nee dle back b ack dow n at point p oint A .Continue along untilyou’ve reached the end end ofthe ofthe seam seam .

A lso called a p ick stitch,this stitch,this is a variation ofthe backstitch bac kstitch used to sew s ew in a zipp zipp er by hand or reinforce a seam .Start by b ringing the needle up from from the back b ack ofthe fabric at p oint A.I A .Insert your needle back b ack dow n at point B.Bring the th e needl ne edle up a stitch stitc h length ength in front front at p oint C .Insert nser t the needl nee dle b back ack dow n at point p oint D ,and ,and continue along untilyou reach the end ofthe seam .The top stitches w illlook like sm allpricks,and the bottom stitches w illbe a longer stitch. stitch.

C atch stitch

R unning stitch D

C

B A

This stitch stitch is is used to to sew a hem w ith hardl hardly any stitch show show ing on the the outside.W orking from left to right and w ith your needle alw ays pointing p ointing left,m ake a sm allstitch through thro ugh the hem h em fold (A to B).Place the next next stitch 1/4 inch (.6 cm )aw ay on the b ackside ofthe garm ent,taking ent,taking up just a few threads (Bto C to D ).C ontinue the next stitch on the hem fold, repeating the crisscross pattern. 34

Sew ing for Beginners

This stitch stitch is used to create create a strong seam seam .Bring up your needle from the backside b ackside and w eave your needle in and out ofthe fabric,spacing abric,spac ing your stitches stitc hes ab out 1/8 1/8 inch (. (.3 cm )apart.The )ap art.The stitch stitch shoul sho uld look the sam e on both sides ofthe ofthe fabric.

B lin d h em stitch B

B lan ket stitch

A

D C

Similar to a catch stitch,this stitch is used to sew a hem with hardly any

stitch showing on the outside of the garment.Start by folding back the pressed-up pressed-up hem hem so only 1/8 1/8 inch inch (.3 cm)shows c m)shows past the fold.Working right to left,tak left,take e up a small stitch stitc h in hem allowance allowance (A to B).M ake next stitch 1/4 inch inch (.6cm)away on the back of the garment,taking up only a few threads (C to D) D ).Continue .Continue the next stitch stitc h on the hem allowance allowance and then again on the backside of the garment.

This stitch is used to sew an edge stitch on a blanket or piece of felt. b y bringing bringing your needle needle up to the the front,about front,about 1/4 inch inc h (.6 cm) Start by away from the edge.Working left to right and staying on the front side of the garment,place your needle about about 1/4 inch inch (.6 cm)away cm)away from the first stitch and from the edge.Push the needle through the garment, but come up again by going through the thread loop.Pull gently to create the blanket stitch.

W h ip stitch

“Th This isstit titc ch isused to ho hold two fold fo lded ed ed edges ges tog toget eth her er. .This is is also als o a great great stitc stitch h fo forr felt ed edges es! !”

This stitch is used to hold two folded edges together.Sew the stitches from front to back near the fold,taking your needle around to the b acklayers.Keep layers.Keep your stitches close c lose together. together.This This is also a great stitch for felt edges! Sewing for Beginners 35

G etting started

Sewing and pressing a straight seam Sew ing a basic seam is the first sew ing technique you should learn.O nce you can do this sim ple task,you w illbe able to w ork on a variety ofprojects.Pressing a seam m ay seem like an unnecessary step,but don’t skip it!The end result w illlook m uch better w hen you’ve taken the tim e to do it right What you need Standard foot attachm ent

The right sides ofthe fabric should b e facing each other

Two pieces of fabric Straight pins

Iron

01 Lay out the fabric Lay outyourfab ric w ith the ri ghtsides facing up.

36 Sew ing for Beginners

02 Layer your fabric Place o ne p iece ofthe fabric on top ofthe o ther piece,lining up the cu t ed ges on the right.The w rong side ofthe fabric is no w visi ble.

Rem ove the pin justbefore itreaches the foot. Sewing on a p in can break yourneed le!

5/8-inch (1.5 cm ) seam m arking

03 Pin

your fabric

04 Line up the edges

Slide p ins into the fabric alon g the seam ed ge,dow n throu gh both

Line up the ed ge ofthe fabric w ith the 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm )seam m arking

layers,and back up through the top.Pin every few inches to hold the

on the throat plate.W ith the stitch selection set to straight,beg in

fab ric in place.

sew ing a straight l ine.

5/8-inch (1.5 cm ) seam m arking

You can see the right side offabric showing in the seam allowance and the wrong side of fabric showing on the leftand right

05 Sew

a straight line

W hen you ’ve sew n a straight line along the entire length ofthe p iece,

06 O pen up and iron

you’ve created the seam .Be sure to backstitch at the b eg inning and at

O pen up the fabric and lay itflat w ith the rightsi de facedow n.Use an

the end to secure yo urstitching.

iron to open the seam and press i tflat. Sew ing for Beginners 37

G etting started

Seam finishes Properly finished seam s are key to m aking yourprojectlook its best.You m ay think “N o one willsee thatpart,so who cares?” Butfinished seam s notonly m ake yourprojectlook good,they also help with durability and preventfraying fora long-lasting garm ent.H ere are two basic m ethods fornicely edged seam s. The zigzag is the preferred stitch form any – it’s quick and easy, and every m achine can do it Pinking Shears

W hat you need Zigzag foo tattachm ent

Scissors Pinking shears

Iron

Say hello to your new best friend in sew ing: the seam ripp er! A seam ripper is an invaluable toolto have on hand!Its tiny,sharp pointallow s you to take outeven the ti niestseam s.

The pinking shearedge

To begin,carefully slide the tip under the thread and,w ith a little p ressure, split the thread.Skip a few stitches and pulloutanother.Then justgrip the thread,and itsho uld slide rightout!

01 Straight seam nch (1.5 cm )seam Sew a straight seam ata 5⁄8-i

02 O pen and press

allow ance.Trim the seam allow ance to 1⁄4 inch

O pen the seam w ith the w ron g side ofthe

(.6cm )w ith pinking shears.

fabric facing up.Press the seam open .

Zigzag Stitch

Zigzag stitch

Seam

03 Zigzag the edges

38

Before sew ing yourseam ,sew a stand ard

04 O pen and press again

zigzag around the edges ofyou rcutfabric.

O pen up the seam and press itflat.Trim any

Sew your seam as directed in yo urpattern

stray thread s close to the zigzag stitching from

orproject instructions.

the fab ric.


Sew ing a hem Finishing wellis im portantin allareas oflife,including sewing! A crisp,clean hem can add a professionaltouch to any item and elim inate frayed edges.A double-turned hem is probably the easiest type to learn and do well.This hem is m ade from two sim ple folds and hides the raw edge.You can m ake this type ofhem atany width.(The following exam ple is shown at1⁄2 inch [1.25 cm ])

W hat you need Standard foo tattachm ent

Seam gauge Straightpins

Iron

Tips for sew ing a perfectly straight larger hem

The folded edge is tucked underto the inside ofthe hem

Some projects may require a larger hem

– for example, a curtain may have a 3-inch (7.5 cm)hem – but the standard markings on the throat plate usually only go up to 1 inch (2.5 cm).Here are a few handy tips for creating a larger straight hem: M

easure out from your needle to the

desired length of the hem. Use a rubber band or a piece of easy-

01 Fold and p ress

02 Fold at the

Fold and press the edge of your fabric under 1⁄4inch (.6 cm)using an iron.Use the seam gauge to create an even fold.

Fold under again at the desired hem width. (This examp le shows a 1⁄2-inch [1.25 cm]hem.) Secure the hem with pins.

hem

to-remove p ainter’s tape to mark the line on your machine. Line up the edge of your hem with this new guide as you sew.Be sure to remove the rubber band or tape immediately so you don’t leave any residue on your machine!

Inside view ofthe hem Rubberband

Be sure to rem ove the pins as you sew through

Rightside ofthe hem (the finished side)

03 Straight stitch Sew a straight stitch right along

foldededge.

04 Sew the upper

the hem

Sew along the entire length of the hem. Backstitch at both the beginning and

the end. Sewing for Beginners 39

G etting started

Curved seams What you need Standard foot attachm ent Sharp scissors Straight pins

Curved seam s seem challenging,but you can create great-looking curves by follow ing som e sim ple steps.W hen sew ing inw ard curves,you have to clip the seam allow ance so the fabric can stretch.You have to notch the seam allow ance ofoutw ard curves to reduce bulky lum ps.Both techniques are easy to learn.Just be sure you have a nice pair ofsm all,sharp scissors!

Pinking shears (optional) Iron N otice w here the horizontalline on the throat p late crosses the vertical5/8-inch (1.5 cm ) seam allow ance line

Inw ard curve

01 Inward curve

02 Sew the seam

This i s an inw ard curve cutinto tw o pieces offab ric.The fabric is sew n

W ith a straightstitch and a 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm )seam allow ance,carefully

w ith the ri ghtsides together.

sew the seam ,guiding the fabric to follow the cu rve.


W hen cutting these notches,be sure notto cutinto yourstitches

04 G rade 03 Trim Carefully trim the seam to 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm), cutting through both layers of the fabric.

05 Press seam Pressthe seam open as far into the curve as you can.Be careful not to crease the fabric.

G rade the seam by trimming

just one layer of the seam allowance close to the stitching line, and notch the curve.If your curve is gentler,you can just cut straight snip s.

06 Turn inside out to check Turn the fabric right side out and press the seam flat. Sewing for Beginners 41

G etting started O utward curve

01 O utw ard curve

42

02 G uide a straight stitch Sew a straight stitch and gently guide the fabric to turn as you round

This outward curve is a gently rounded corner.The fabric is cut and sewn with the right sides together.

the curve.Be sure to keep the seam allowance lined up at all points throughout the curve.

03 Pivot at tight curves

04 Avoid points

When sewing a tight curve, you may have to pause, raise the foot, and pivot the fabric slightly.Then lower the foot and continue sewing.

N otice the smooth, even seam along the curve.Be careful to keep it from looking like a corner with a p oint.


The seam allow ance can also b e trim m ed at 1⁄8 inch (.3 cm )w ith A no tched curve

pinking shears

05 Trim the seam

06 Press open

Trim the seam allowance and notch the curve.N otice the uneven notching for the top and bottom layers;this keeps the seam strong.

Press the seam op en as much as possible.Turn the fabric right side out, and pressthe seam flat.

N eedle up or needle dow n? ost modern sewing machines have a selection button to keep the needle in the down p osition when you stop sewing. N otice the button with the small icon that has the needle and both the up and down arrow? The digital display shows you which of the two choices you have selected.Sewing with the needle down is key to smooth seams on curves and corners. If your machine isn’t digital,turn the handwheel on the side of the machine to keep the needle down while turning your fabric. M


G etting started

Sewing corners Sew ing a clean,crisp corner can be a bit tricky,but w ith the right technique,it is easy to m aster!Pivoting is the key to a great point on an outside corner as w ellas a nice-looking inside corner.You w ill see these types ofcorners used m ost on square necklines,pillow s, or purses

What you need Standard foot attachm ent Sharp scissors M arking tool(like a pencil) Straight pins Point turner or pencil

O utside corner

Iron

This show s an outside corner cut at a 90-degree angle. The fabric is sew n w ith the right sides facing each other

Turning point

01 Mark the seam

02 Straight seam to the corner

ark the seam allowance (5⁄8-inch [1.5 cm ])on the fabric.M easure from both sides to create the intersecting turning point.

Sew a straightseam

M


untilyou reach the cornerm ark.Stop sewing with the need le in the down position.

03 Keep

the needle dow n

04 Turn fabric

Raise the p resser foot.Keep the need le dow n and poking throu gh the

W ith the n eedle d ow n,turn the fabric so the other si de edge lines up

fab ric to secure yourposi tion.

w ith the seam guideline.Low er the foot and continue sew ing .

Be carefulnotto cut through the stitching

05 Check your

lines

This i s how yourstraight-stitched seam w ith a pivoted corner should

06 Trim

the corners

look— very crisp.By pivoting,you create a continuous seam w ithout the

N ow you need to trim the corner.Firstcutoffthe p oint,then angle in

bulk o fb ackstitching.

tow ard the corner to red uce bulk. Sew ing for Beginners 45

G etting started

G rading the seam rem oves excess fabric and reduces bu lk

07 Layer the seam s som etim es referred to as G rade the seam on both edges (this i

08 Press the seam open

“layeri ng”the seam ).Trim the top layeroffabric to 1⁄ 8 inch (.3 cm )an d

Press the seam open as close to the p oint as you can.Use you rfingers to

the b ottom to 1 ⁄ 4 inch (.6 cm ).

press open the point.

09 Turn inside out

46

Turn the fab ric ri ghtside out.Use a pointturner ora p en cilto carefully

10 Press flat

push outthe corner to a point.

Press the co rner flat.N otice the finished corner has a clean,sharp point.


Inside corner This is how you create an inw ard corner cut into tw o pieces offabric.The fabric is sew n w ith the right sides together

M ark the seam lines w ith intersecting lines so you know w here to pivot

01 Straight stitch into the intersection

02 Pivot To pivot,firstbe sure the needle is do w n in the fabric.Raise the footand

To sew an insi de corner,straightstitch up to the pointw here the lines

turn the fabric.Line u p the seam allow ance,low er the foot,and then

intersect;this is w here you w illpivotthe corner.

continu e sew ing .

Be carefulnot to cut through the stitching

Ifthe fab ric is p ulling at corner,go back and clip a bit closer to the stitching

03 Trim and grade

04 Press and turn inside out

Trim and grade the seam s.Usi ng sm all,very sharp scissors,clip into the

Pressthe seam s op en and turn rightsi de out.Press again to create a

corner as close to the stitching as p ossible.

cri sp corner. Sew ing for Beginners 47

G etting started

Types of trim Trim s com e in a variety ofshapes and sizes.They can be sew n in the seam or applied to the outside edge.Trim s like bias tape can be used to cover raw edges,w hile trim s like ribbons and lace are used to add detailed em bellishm ent.O verall,trim s are a great w ay to express your personalstyle and give your project a finished and professionallook


Crocheted lace and metallic lace can be sewn in the seam or on the outside edge.H em tape,shown here in lace,is generally used on the inside edge of a hem.

Piping is sewn in the seam and is a great way to add a finished look to a pillow.Braided trims and cording are applied on the outside and are used as accents on a project.

The sheer portion slides into the seam, while the beads are exposed

Rickrack trim can be sewn in the seam or on the outside,with a straight

Beaded trim is sewn in the seam,while sequined trim is sewn on the

stitch down the center.G rosgrain and satin ribbon are sewn along the edges on the outside of the fabric.

outside.The pleated grosgrain ribbon trim is sewn in the seam along the stitched edge. Sewing for Beginners 49

G etting started

Sewn in seam The seam allow ance w illbe determ ined by the size ofthe trim

N otice how the right sides ofthe fabric are facing each other

01 Place in between

02 Stitch the layers

Place the trim in betw een the tw o layers offabric.The finished ed ge o f

Straightstitch through allthree layers,rem oving the p ins as you sew .Be

the trim w illpoint aw ay from the raw ed ge.Pin.

sure to keep the trim flat and to guide itgen tly w ith yourfingers.

03 O pen to check O pen the fabric to see the trim extending ou tofthe seam .You can sew

04 Press the seam

the seam atdifferentw idths to have less trim show .Trim the seam on

Pressthe seam w ith the w ron g sides ofthe fabric together.D ep ending

the inside.

on the p roject,you can topstitch oredge sti tch forextra durab ility.


Edge trims A variety oftrim s can be sew n on the edge ofa seam or the surface ofa fabric.These are generally sew n on w ith a sim ple straight stitching line.They can be purely decorative or used to cover the spot w here tw o fabrics m eet.In this exam ple,w e use a narrow ribbon for the trim

N otice how the needle is at the right edge

N otice how the needle is at the left edge

01 Mark your lines

02 Stitch both edges

ark yourline on the fabric and eitherp in oruse a fusible productto hold the ribbon in place while you sew.

Straightstitch

M

along both edges ofthe ribbon.Take yourtim e to sew a straightand even line;a wobbly line ofstitches willdistract.

Two ways you can use rickrack trim Som

e trim scan be sewn in the seam oron the surface;it’sreally up to yourp ersonalpreference! Rickrack trim isa greatexam ple ofa trim being used two ways.On the leftside ofthe im age,you can see the trim issewn in the seam and justthe halfcirclespoke out— a cute detail!O n the rightofthe im age,you can see the trim issewn rightatthe edge,butsewn on top . W hen sewing rickrack,sew a straightseam rightdown the center.Foryourp roject,you’llwant to use thread the sam e coloras therickrack.

Sewing

forBeginners

51

G etting started

Piping Piping is a trim or em bellishm ent you can use to define the edges ofa project.M any sizes and colors are available prem ade,but it’s also easy to m ake your ow n.You can follow the steps to m ake bias strips and then sim ply fold them in halfover the desired size ofcording and baste to secure.O ne ofthe m ost com m on uses ofpiping is to edge a pillow .It adds a finished look and a pop ofcolor! What you need The piping is pinned to the right side ofthe fabric

Zipp er foot attachm ent Seam ripper Piping Straight pins Sm allscissors

01 Place piping Place the raw edge o fthe p iping trim alon g the raw edge o fthe right si de ofthe fabric.Pin in p lace along the seam allow ance.

“Cut sm allslits into the seam allow ance to gently curve around a corner”

02 Stitch and cut tch to hold the p iping in place.Cutsm allslits i nto the seam Baste sti allow ance to gently curve arou nd a corner.The curve should be sm ooth, notfolded .


03 Layer the fabrics

04 Pin the layers

Layer the other piece of fabric on top with the right sides together. M atch up the raw edges.

Pin through all three layers.It’s easiest to pin through the seam allowance,not through the cording.

05 G uide along the

cord

With the zipper foot attached, guide the foot just along the lump from the cord.Straight stitch as close to the piping cord as you can.

06 Turn inside out Turn the fabric right side out and gently push out the corners.If any basting stitches are showing on the piping, simply remove with a seamripper. Sewing for Beginners 53

G etting started

U sing bias tape Bias tape is used in lots ofhom e-decorating projects.It gets its nam e because ofhow it’s m ade— the fabric is cut on the bias,or diagonally across the grain.This gives the trim a bit of stretch,w hich is helpfulfor curving around corners sm oothly.Bias tap e can be used on its ow n or to m ake piping,giving raw edges a nice,finished look

To sew the backstitch What you need Extra-w ide doub le-fold bias tape is used here

Zigzag (or straight) foot attachm ent

Bias tape Iron

Straight pins M easuring tape

01 O pen tape and unfold O pen the b ias tap e.U nfold one side allthe w ay,and press i tflat.Place the b ias tap e o n the fabric w ith the ri ghtsi des together,m aking sure to

02 Straight stitch the first fold

line up the raw edges.Pin alon g the seam allow ance.Straightsti tch ri ght

The straight stitching line is on the first fold.Th e center fold is just to the

along the creased fold line,rem oving the p ins as you sew .

left.Th e partthat w illfold overto the b ackside is to the far l eft.


Stitching o n the firstfold

“Be sure the partofthe fabric that’s folded underneath is caughtin the stitching” Centerfold

Centerfold

Backside fold

03 Fold over Fold the bias tape over so the center fold lines up with the raw edge of the fabric.Fold the other half to the underside.

04 Straight stitch the seam O n the right side of the fabric, straight stitch in the seam where the bias tape joins the fabric.Be sure the p art that’s folded underneath is caught in the stitching.

This is called stitch in the ditch

05 Check your progress When you’re finished, you will barely see the stitching on the right side. However, notice how it’s visible on the backside.

06 Finish the hem Use a narrow piece of bias tape to finish a hem.Sew it to the right side of the hem line, as in steps 1 through 4 of Binding Edges. Sewing for Beginners 55

G etting started Sew ing a bias tape hem

01 Fold up the hem Fold the hem up with the bias tape folded over the raw edge to create an even hem.Pin in place.

03 Inside versus outside view The outside view of the hem shows a single stitching line.The inside view shows a carefully stitched line just at the top edge of the bias tape. 56 Sewing for Beginners

02 Stitch along the top Straight stitch just along the top

edge of the bias tape.You can sew an additional parallel line if desired, or sew with a twin needle to create evenly spaced rows.

04 M iter the corner It’s best to miter the corner of a bias tape–trimmed edge.To do this, measure 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm)from the edge and mark with a pin.Sew just up to this point.

M itering a corner

01 Fold the b ias tape over Fold the biastape over the sewn part,creating a 45 degree angle from the corner,to keep it lined up .

03 Pin Pin just past the folded fabric underneath.

02 Fold the bias tape back Fold the bias tape back over to line up with the raw edges on the other side.The folded edge should line up with the adjacent edge.Pin just past the folded fabric underneath.

04 Turn over Turn the bias tape over to fold over the edges and the corner.The backside will have a mitered fold as well. Sewing for Beginners 57

G etting started

Making your own bias tape Sure,you can buy prepackaged,prefolded bias tape at the store,but w hy not m ake your ow n? It’s pretty sim ple,and you can choose any color or print you like.N ow you can give your projects a truly unique look!

Binding edges What you need Cotton fabric Selvage

Plastic or metal ruler Fabric m arking pen

Rotary cutter Iron

Scissors Bias

Bias tape m aker tool(optional)

01 Fold the fabric Fold the fabric w ith the w rong si des together,so the cu ted ge lines up w ith the selvag e.Pressalong the fold to create a crease that runs along the bias ofthe fabric g rain.O pen the fabric an d lay itflat,w ith the w rong si de up.

02 Mark parallel lines Create parallellines atthe m easurem ent you w ant foryourbias tape w ith your fabric m arking pen and ruler,using the crease as a starting point (forthis exam ple, it i s a 2-inch -w ide [5 cm ]strip).


“Create parallel lines at the m easurem ent that you w ant for your ow n bias tape”

“Press along the fold to create a crease thatruns along the bias ofthe fabric grain”

Crease

03 Repeat m

M arked line

arkings

04 Cut

along the lines

des ofthe Rep eat m arking lines acrossthe restofthe fabric on both si

U se a rotary cutter along the ed ge ofyo urruler to cut allthe strips

cen ter crease.

offabri c.

06 Layer strips at 05 Trim

the angles

Trim the angles offthe en ds ofthe fabric pieces to m ake them square.

the angles

W ith the ri ghtsi des together,layerthe strips,m aking sure to m atch up the rightangles.Place the ruler across the corner and line up w ith the ed ges ofthe strips. Sew ing for Beginners 59

G etting started “The connecting seam s w illbe sew n diagonally acrossthe strip. Continue to sew allthe stripstogether”

07 Stitch a diagonalline

08 O pen up and press

Draw a diagonal line, and straight stitch along the line.Trim the seam to about 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm).

O pen up the fabric, and press the seam open.Trim off the edges if they extend past the sides.

Th e right side of the strip is sho w n

09 Sew allthe strips together

10 Fold

The connecting seams will be sewn diagonally across the strip.Continue to sew all the strips together.

Fold the strip in half, and p ress it to create the center line.O pen and fold the raw edges in toward the center, and press.


Variation using a bias tape maker Pullback on the handle,and pull the fabric forw ard

01 Insert fabric

02 Pull out folded fabric

Feed the fabric into the bias tape maker tool.As you pull the fabric out, the tool will begin to fold the edges in toward the center.

As the fabric is pulled out, press it to create creased folds.O nce it is all the way out, fold it in half and p ress the center fold.

Types of bias tape Bias tape comes in

a variety of sizes designed for different types of projects: S ingle fold simply has the two long edges

folded under.Like ribbon, it is stitched along both edges.It comes in two widths and is used for casings, facings, or trim. D ouble fold is similar to single fold but it’s

folded in half at the center, too.It comes in several widths and is used to finish edges or as drawstring ties that slide into a casing. Q  uilt binding is a larger version of extra-

wide double fold.It is used for the edges of quilts or thick blankets. B lanket

binding has the largest finished

size.It’s usually made in satin and is just folded in half.It fits right over the edge of a blanket and is straight stitched or zigzagged along the edge.


The next step D iscover the m ore specialised skills 64

G athering a ruffl e

96

A pplying appliqué

66

Shirring w ith elastic thread

100

Types ofquilting

68

M aking draw string ties

104

U sing interfacing

70

Sew ing w ith elastic

106

Pockets

74

U sing a zipper foot

108

Attaching a collar

76

Inserting a zipper

110

Setting a sleeve

80

U sing a buttonhole foot

112

M aking a w aistband

84

O pening a button hole

114

Curved hem s

86

Sew ing a button by hand

116

French seam s

88

Knife pleats

118

Reading the envelope

90

Box pleats

120

U nderstand ing m arkings

92

Tucks

122

Laying outand cutting

94

D arts

“W e show you how to sew an appliqué – you’ llbe using itforyears to com e!”



The next step

G athering a ruffle From clothes to pillow s,ruffles add fem inine detailto any project.You can learn to create a ruffle by follow ing these steps

Be sure you have both the top and the bottom threads p ulled out w ith a few inches oflength

01 Sew a basting stitch Sew a basting stitch atabout1⁄4 inch

02 Second row (.6 cm )from the edge ofthe fabric.

D o notbackstitch ateitherend.

Sew a second

row ofbasting stitches justunderthe firstrow ata 3⁄8inch (1 cm )seam allowance.

Top threads

Bobb in thread

03 Separate the threads

04 Pin and secure

Afterthe two rows ofbasting stitches are sewn,separate the top threads from the bob bin thread.

Slide


in a pin on the back ofthe fabric,and wind the bob bin threads around itto secure

Top threads

Bo bbin thread

05 Separate opposite threads At the other end of the fabric, now separate the top threads and the bobbin threads.

06 Pullthe bob bin threads

07 Keep

08 H old the

pulling

Continue pulling the bobbin threads and sliding the fabric down until you’ve created the gathered length you desire.

G ently pull the bobbin

threads.This will cause the fabric to bunch up.

gathers in p lace

Set the stitch length back to the standard length and carefully sew over

the bottom basting line to hold the gathers in p lace. Sewing for Beginners 65

The next step

Shirring with elastic thread “W hat is shirring?”you m ight ask.It’s an old technique that w as originally done w ith regular thread.It features m any parallelrow s ofgathered stitches that create a scrunched-up, gathered look.A fun and easy w ay to achieve this look is by doing it w ith elastic thread.In this exam ple,a skirt w aistband is created by sew ing lots ofstraight lines.To begin,w ind the elastic thread by hand on an em pty bobbin.Then pop the bobbin into your sew ing m achine as you w ould regular thread What you need Zigzag (or straight) foot attachm ent Empty bobb in Elastic thread Ruler and marking pencil Spray bottle w ith w ater Elastic thread

A b obbin w ound w ith elastic thread

Iron

Standard thread

01 Wind the bobbin

02 Mark your rows

To w ind the bob bin,po ke the end ofthe thread throu gh the ho le from

U se a ruler and m arking pencilto draw straightlines 1⁄2 inch (1.25 cm )

the insi de.H old the end w hile w inding the thread w ith a slightstretch.

apart.Create as m any row s asyou need to get to the d esi red w idth.


Be sure to sew a few backstitches ateach end to secure the thread

The firstrow m ay notloo k too gathered ,butthat’s fine.Itwillscrunch up m ore as you sew m ore rows

03 Sew

along the m arkings

Sew along the lines w ith a straightstitch.W hen you get to the en d ofa

04 Continue sew

row ,sim ply raise the footand sl ide the fabric over so you don’ thave to

Con tinu e to sew allthe row s ofstitching .W hen you reach the en d ofthe

cut the thread each tim e.

lastrow ,be sure to backstitch to secure the thread .

05 Spray

06 O bserve

w ith w ater

Spray the en tire area that is shirred w ith a m istofw ater.Press by sim ply

ing

W atch as the elastic m agically shrinks!The h eat and steam cause the

setting the iron on the shirred fab ric,picking itup,and setting it on

elasti c to contract.After it i s ironed,the shirred section w illb e nicely

another section (don’t slide it around).

gathered up . Sew ing for Beginners 67

The next step

Making drawstring ties D raw strings can be used in a variety ofprojects.You can create anything from a cute bag w ith a sim ple draw string closure to a sim ple apron that ties around the w aist.You can m ake your ow n tie from fabric,or use a ribbon or rope trim — the possibilities are endless!Take a glance back at the elastic casing tutorial;this casing w illgo together the sam e w ay.N ow ,let’s focus on how to m ake a cute draw string tie!The length ofthe tie w illvary depending on the project What you need Standard foot attachm ent

Fat quarter Iron

Safety pins Com pleted elastic casing

Rotary cutter and ruler

01 Cut two strips

02 Repeat and fold

U si ng a rotarycutterand ruler,cuttw o strips of20 x 1-inch (51× 2.5 cm )

c strip.Pressboth sides Rep eatthis processfor the leftside ofthe fabri

fabric.Press one strip in halfto form a crease atthe center.Fold the right

dow n,and then fold in halfso the edg es are tucked into the center.

outsi de edge into the centercrease.

Pressagain.


03 Stitch along

the edge

04 Repeat

Straightstitch rightalong the folded edge.Take yourtim e, and keep the

Repeatstep s1 throu gh 3 forthe othertie.M ostbagsw illhave tw o ties

seam straight.Yourfirsttie isnow com plete.

thatpullin opposi te directions.

05 Pin and feed

06 Tie

Slide a safety pin into one end ofthe tie to feed itthrou gh the casing. Scrunch up and pullback the fabric untilitcom esoutthe otherside.

Tie kno tson the ends ofyourtiesto keep them from sliding back into

safety knots

the casing.


The next step

Sewing with elastic Elastic com es in a variety ofstyles,w eights,and sizes.You can use it to create gathers,ruffles, sim ple w aistbands,or straps on a tank top!Som e types ofelastic are decorative and exposed, w hile others are sew n inside casings.You don’t need a specialm achine or specialsettings to sew w ith elastic— just your standard presser foot and straight or zigzag stitches.The follow ing lessons w illshow you a variety ofw ays to use elastic Elastic casing What you need Seam gauge

Elastic Straight pins

Ruler and marking pencil Safety pin

Zigzag (or standard)foot attachment

This exam ple is for ½ -inch-w ide (1.25 cm ) elastic,but you can easily m ake it any size

01 Fold,press,fold and sew Sim

ilarto the hem ,fold the fabric under1⁄4 inch (.6 cm ),press,and fold underagain,only thistim e at5⁄8 inch (1.5 cm ).Pin and sew a straight seam along the inside fold. 70 Sewing forBeginners

02 Pin the elastic Secure a safety pin in the end

through the casing.

ofthe piece ofelastic.Thiswillguide it

Be carefulnotto squeeze the pin -itm ightpop open!

03 Check the casing tube

04 G uide the elastic

The casing tub e hasbeen created.N otice the hollow space;the elastic

Beg inning w ith the safety pin, slide the elastic into the tub e.You should

w illslide into thisspace.

be ab le to gen tly push the safety pin throu gh the casing.

W atch the o therend o fthe elastic to b e sure itdoesn’t slide inside the tube.W hen it gets close,pin itto secure

05 Keep

sliding

06 Secure w ith straight stitches

Push the safety pin forw ard, gri p the end ofitw ith yourfingers, and slide

O nce you have both endspulled outofthe tub e, you can sew a few

the fabri c back.Keep going untilthe safety pin com esoutthe otherside.

straightstitch esto secure the elastic to the casing on both ends.


The next step Elastic ruffle A narrow hem is sewn along the finished edge A m arked line is drawn to indicate where the elastic shou ld be placed

01 M ark elastic and fabric

02 Line up p ins

M ark the elastic and fabric in fourthsw ith pins— no te thatthe elastic is

Line up the pins(centerto center, fourth to fourth, and so on)and pin

shorterthan the len gth ofthe fabri c.

the fabric to the elastic atthose points.

W atch the otherend ofthe elastic to be sure it doesn’t slide inside the tub e.W hen it gets close,pin itto secu re

03 Zigzag stitch the elastic

04 Adm ire your ruffle

Zigzag stitch overthe elastic, gen tly stretch ing itto the len gth ofthe fabri c.Carefully sew overthe pins, orrem ove them before the needle.

The zigzag stitch ing secures the elastic to the fabric, creating a ruffle,


and stretchesw ith the elastic.

Exposed elastic

A s you sew,rem em berto stretch the elastic to be the length ofthe fab ric

01 Layer elastic and fabric

02 Zigzag stitch bottom

edge

Using flat,non-roll elastic,line up the top edge of the fabric so the elastic overlaps about 3⁄8 inch (1cm).

Setthe stitch to the widest zigzag.Sew along

the bottom edge,where

the elastic meetsthe fabric.

03 O bserve Thissimple zigzag stitch stretcheswith

the elastic. Sewing for Beginners 73

The next step

U sing a zipper foot D on’t fear the zipp er foot— it’s easy to use and can m ake sew ing projects easier!M ost sew ing m achines com e w ith a zipper foot as a standard accessory.Ifyou don’t have one,how ever,just look up your m odelnum ber to see w hat’s com patible w ith your m achine and order one from your favorite store.A zipper foot is designed to let you sew right along the edge ofsom ething too bulky to fit under a standard sew ing foot.There m ay be specific instructions for som e m achine m odels,but the follow ing can help you through the b asics ofusing a zipper foot

A zipper foot can be used on more than just zippers... The foot is released Sew piping trim

on an edge ofyourproject orinto a seam line.

Zip per foot

Topstitch

around a raised fastener,like a snap.

Sew beaded

trim .

Sew a circularelastic casing. Sew in snap

tape.

01 Remove existing foot Release the existing footon yourm achine;itwilldrop

down and separate from the

presserfootholder.Slide itout,and setitaside.

02 Attach zipper foot Place the zipperfootunderthe presserfootholder,lining up the bardirectly underneath. Lowerthe presserfootleverso itlatches to the foot,and liftthe leverback up. 74 Sewing forBeginners

“Allzippers can be sew n w ith a standard zipper foot, but for installing an invisible zipper, it’s best to alw ays use the concealed zipper foot”

N otice the need le position – you can’t sew with the need le in the center

03 A djust

04 Check needle p osition

needle position

Turn the handwheel slowly to make sure the needle ispositioned

Adjust the needle position so it’s allthe way to the left or right side of the foot.

properly;it should slide down inside the small opening without hitting the foot.Raise the needle backup,and start sewing your zipper.

Shopping for zipper types

Separating zipper

Z ippers come in a variety of styles.The ones you seein

the photo are the basics: all-purpose polyester,invisible,brassjeans,and separating. An all-purpose zipper isexactly what the name implies— it workson all typesof fabricsand projects.

Brass jeans zip per

Invisible zipper

A ll-purpose zipper

An invisible zipper isbest used with medium or lightweight fabricsand is virtually undetectable when sewn in— all you’ll seeisthe zipper pull. The brassjeanszipper isused in the front fly on denim pantsor jeans. Separating zippers aredesigned to open up all the way.M ost often, you’ll use these for a jacket or sweatshirt with an open front.Each style can have plastic or metal teeth.M etal teeth areused frequently in an exposed zipper design.Your pattern or project instructions will specify the type you need,so do try to read them carefully to find out the right type to buy. All zippers can be sewn with a standard zipper foot,but for installing an invisible zipper,it’sbest to use a concealed zipper foot.


The next step

Inserting a zipper Zippers can b e both functionaland add personality to lots ofprojects.D on’t let a fear of zippers keep you from adding a professionalfinish to w hat you’re creating!Sew ing a zipper is not difficult at all;it just requires a bit ofpatience.Try it a few tim es on scrap fabric,and before you know it,you’llbe ready to add one to your next p urse or pillow .You can learn m any different m ethods to insert different typ es ofzippers,but for now ,here are the basics for inserting a centered coilzipper What you need Zipp er foot attachm ent

Seam ripper Iron

Straight pins Zippers N otice the right and w rong sides ofthe fabric

G luestick (optional)

Stitch w ith large basting stitches (usually 5)

01 Practice makes perfect Line up the raw edge ofthe fabri c w ith the rightsides facing each other.

02 O pen and press a seam

c edge. Straightstitch 1⁄2 inch (1. 25 cm )from the fabri

U se youriron to open the seam and press itflat.


The zippercoil should line up with the centerseam

03 Place zipper on

seam

Place the zipper facedown on the seam.Line up the top edge of the zipper with the top edge of the fabric.

04 Pin dow n zipper Pin the zipper to the fabric.You can also use a glue stickto hold the zipper in place;just be careful notto get itnear the coilsand to let itdry before sewing.

N otice the needle is m oved to the farleft

Pulloutthe pins before sewing

D on’tsew over a pin;you could break your m achine needle

05 Secure w ith a backstitch

06 Straight stitch

Lower the zipper foot so itsitsnext to the zipper coils.Pulloutthe pin and backstitch a few stitchesto secure the seam.

Continue to straight stitch from the base of the zipper up to the top. Pause with the foot down to remove the pinsasyou sew. Sewing for Beginners 77

The next step

Stop sewing 2 inches (5 cm )from the top

Be sure to keep the coils lined up with the centerseam

07 Slide zipper b ack

08 Stitch to the top

Stop w ith the need le dow n.Raise the footand carefully slide the zipper

Low erthe foot and con tinue sti tching to the top edge.Raise the foot

open so the zipperpullisbehind the foot.

and needle, pullthe fabri c out, and cutthe thread s.

N otice the needle is m oved to the far rightside

09 Sew the bottom and left side

10 Rem ove basting stitches

Starting atthe base ofthe zipper, sew acrossthe bottom and up the left side.Stop sew ing 2 inches (5 cm )from the top edge.

Pu llthe fabri c outofthe m achine.Use a seam ripperto rem ove the


centerbasting stitch esabout3 inches (7.5 cm )d ow n.Unzip the zipper.

11 Continue sew ing Continue sewing the remainder of the zipper to the top edge.Be sure to keep the coilslined up with the fabric edge.

12

Rem ove rem aining basting stitches

Using the seam ripper,remove the rest of the basting stitchesalong the center seam.Unzip and zip the zipper to test it.

It’s easy to shorten a zipper to the desired length!        

with a zigzag stitch.       

sewing foot.You want the needle to go backand forth over the coil.            

several stitchesto keep the zipper closed.        

           


The nextstep

U sing a buttonhole foot Sew ing buttonholes m ay seem like a scary prospect,but they’re not as difficult as they seem . M ost sew ing m achines are equipp ed w ith an autom atic buttonhole foot,w hich takes out the guessw ork and provides great-looking,consistent results. An autom atic buttonhole can be done in severalstyles,as you can see in this series ofphotos. The follow ing show s you how to use a buttonhole foot to m ake a sim ple buttonhole;refer to your m achine’s m anualfor the specifics

What you need Buttonhole foot attachm ent

Button

Fit the b utton tightly into the holder by sliding the low er lever

Fabric m arking pen

Ruler

The silver bar is w here the foot attaches to the presser foot holder.This is the front end ofthe foot

Place the button here to help you set the correct size

This space is w here the buttonhole w illbe stitched

Stud y the im age to becom e fam iliarw ith the button hole foot.Referto yourm anualto identi fythe specific parts.


Pu llthis leverdown and slide it behind the notch in the foo t

The footconnects here The need le goes through this hole

01 Rem

ove existing foot

Release the existing foot, slide itoutofthe w ay, and setitaside.Position the button hole footunderthe presserfootholder, and low eritto attach.

03 Select stitch setting Selectthe stitch setting fora bu tton ho le.O n thism achine, stitch num ber30 isselected , and the w idth and len gth are setau tom atically.

02 Place

buttonhole lever

Pulldow n the button hole leverand place itbehind the notch on the foot.(Thisw orksw ith the button ho lderatthe back ofthe footto create the desired-size buttonhole.)

04 M

ark buttonholes

U se a fabri c m arking pen and a rulerto m ark the positi on ofthe button ho les, keep ing them atleastan inch (2.5 cm )from the edge of the fab ri c.


The next step

Th e stitching willstart atthe b ottom and go backward,and then com e back down to finish

05 Slide fab ric underneath Slide the fabric underthe foot, and low erthe presserfootlever.Line up the bottom edge ofthe buttonh ole m ark w ith the hole in the foot.

The m achine willslow d own and stop on its own when done

06 Let the m

achine do the w ork

Push the foot pedaland letthe m achine m ake the button hole.The m achine w illsew up and dow n a few tim eson each side, creati ng a rectangular box w ith straightstitch ing.Itw illthen sew a zigzag stitch back and forth overthe straight-sti tch ed linesand reinforce w ith sti tch esacrossthe bottom and the top .Keep yourhandson the fabri c to gu ide itifn ecessary, butdon’tpush orpull— letthe m achine do w hatit’ssupposed to do.


07 Trim

m ing the threads

Raise the presserfoot, pulloutthe fabric, and cutthe thread s.Turn the

08 Reinforced

fabri c overto the w ron g si de.Pullthe tailofthe top thread throu gh to

Forthisbutton hole stitching, you can see the tiny zigzag stitching over

stitching

the bottom , and tie itin a knotto secure.Trim the thread s.

the straightstitching on each side.The ends are also strongly reinforced.


The next step

O pening a buttonhole You’ve created a perfect b uttonhole— now it’s tim e to open it up so it’s functional!The tiny space that needs to be cut m ight seem a bit intim idating,but don’t w orry— w e have a few tricks to share.Buttons can be used sim ply as an em bellishm ent or serve a purely functional purpose— and som etim es they can do both.So be on the lookout for interesting buttons! What you need Straight pins

Small,sharp scissors Seam rippers

Straight pins Seam sealant liquid (such as Fray Check) Sm allem broidery scissors cut easily in tiny spaces

01 Place pin Place a pin atthe end ofthe buttonh ole.This w illact as a stop forthe tip ofthe scissors.

Start cutting at the center ofthe buttonhole

02 Carefully cut Carefully cutforw ard to the pin atthe end.Place a pin atthe otheren d

03 O pen up and trim

and cut to thatend.

Pu llthe button hole open.Trim anyloose thread s from the fab ri c.


04 A pply sealant

liquid

For extra durability,apply the seam sealant liquid to the cut edges.Test itoutby sliding a button through the hole.

W ho knew there w ere so m any typ es ofbuttons Buttons aremade in a variety of materials,

including metal,glass,plastic,clay,ivory,and wood.They vary in shape and size.There are round,oval,square,and even novelty shapes,such asstarsand flowers! Flat buttonscan have either two or four holes in the center and can be sewn by hand or sometimesby machine.Shankbuttonsattach by sewing through a loop under the bottom side of the button. Choosing the right button isreally determined by the overall goal you have for the project.Isthe button functional or decorative?It’sup to you!


The nextstep

Sewing a button by hand

Two-hole bu tton

Shank b utton

Two-hole For a tw o-hole button, thread your needle w ith the thread folded over and tied in a knot to create a double strand.Poke up from the backside through the right hole, and poke back dow n through the left hole through to the backside— do this three tim es.Secure w ith a knot.

Shank To sew a shank button, thread the needle in the sam e m anner as for the tw o-hole button.Sew up from the backside through the hole and back dow n to the backside— do this three tim es.Secure w ith a tiny knot.

Thread shanked four-hole button

Th is tiny liftgives the fabric roo m to fitu nderthe button while keeping the threads tighton the frontside

01 Four-hole For extra durability, sew a four-hole in the sam e m ethod as for a tw ohole button, but sew over a toothpickto create a bit ofslack on the thread.Sew the right side follow ed by the left side— do each side three tim es.Rem ove the toothpick. 86


02 Finishing a four-hole Poke the needle back up from the bottom , but keep it under the button.W rap the threads tightly three or four tim es, and poke back through to the backside.Secure w ith a tiny knot.

W ith a sewing m achine

01 Place buttonfoot Attach the button foot.Lower the feed dogsso the fabricisn’t pulled backwhen you begin sewing.Setthe stitch to a zigzag at zero length. Place the button under the foot,and lower itto hold the button tight.

03 A djust stitch for the holes Continue turning the handwheel to raise the needle and lower itdown into the other hole.M ake adjustmentsin the stitch width until the needle can go into both holeswithout hitting the button.

02 Low er needle into hole Turn the handwheel on the side of the machine to lower the needle into

the first hole.The needle should nothit the button at all.

04 M ake it secure Sew backand forth several timesto hold

the button securely in place. Cut the threads,and remove the fabricfrom the machine.Pullthe top thread through to the bottom side and tieitin a knot. Sewing for Beginners 87

The next step

Knife pleats What you need Ruler

Fabric marking tool Iron

Straight pins

Looking for a great w ay to add fullness to a piece ofclothing or a cute detailto the edge ofa pillow ? Try knife pleats!Knife pleats are folds in the fabric that allgo in the sam e direction.M ake sure you have the right tools on hand to m ake evenly spaced straight lines and use a cotton fabric that w illhold the crease w hen pressed. Knife pleats m ight look intim idating,but don’t w orry— they’re pretty easy to m ake!

The exam ple show s 1-inch (2.5 cm )pleats, but pleats can range betw een 1 inch (1.25 cm ) and 1½ inches (3.75 cm )

Pin both the front and backsides ofthe p leat

01 Mark at every inch

02 Line up marks and fold

W ith the fabri c rightside up ,use a rulerto draw a m ark atevery inch

Fold the fabri c so the second m ark is lined up w ith the fourth m ark.The

along the top edge.Three m arks w illm ake one pleat.

third m ark becom es the inside fold.Pin in place.


Be sure to avoid ironing overthe pin heads;they m ightm elt!

03 Keep

folding

Take the nextsetofthree m arksand rep eatthe folding process. Continu e to pleatthe enti re len gth ofthe fabri c, pinning and creasing

04 Press

w ith yourfingersto hold in place.

Carefully pressallthe pleatsin place, creati ng crisp , even folds.

pleats in p lace

D on’tletthe fabric fold underthe foot

05 Sew

to keep pleats in p lace

06 U se your pleated m

aterial

U se a large basting stitch and sew along the top edge to hold allthe

W ith the basting stitch esin place, you can now use the pleatsin your

pleatsin place.Rem ove the pinsasyou sew .

sew ing project.


The next step

Box pleats What you need Ruler Fabric marking tool Iron Straight pins

This type ofpleat is a bit m ore com plicated than a basic knife pleat but adds a lot ofinterest to a project.It can b e used as a single pleat (like on the back ofa shirt)or in a continuing series (like on a skirt). Box pleats are m ade from tw o folds in the fabric that face aw ay from each other.W hen done in reverse,w ith the fabric flipped over,you create an inverted pleat.Both styles are a great addition to your grow ing skillset

Center point

Center point

Sew to this point

01 Mark center point

02 Line up your marks Pinch the fabri c atthe pin and fold the rightside underso the tw o

Fora single centered pleat:M ark the centerpointw ith a pin.Use a ruler

m arks line up.Straightsti tch from the m ark dow n 2 inches (5 cm )and

to m ark a 3-inch (7.5 cm )section,w ith the pin atthe center.

backstitch forsecurity.


03 O pen and line up

04 Press the fabric

Rem ove the pins.O pen the fabric so the pleatisfacing up, and line up

Pressthe pleat, m aking sure itis centered and allthe w ay op en.U se a

the centerw ith the sew n line un derneath.

thin cloth to protectthe fabri c ifn ecessary.

05 Sew

top edge

Sew acrossthe top edge w ith a basting stitch to keep the pleatflat.

06 Check your w ork H ere isa back view ofthe finished pleat.Thisis also called an inverted pleatand can be done so this isthe finished side.


The next step

Tucks What you need Standard foot attachm ent Sharp scissors M arking tool(like a pencil) Straight pins Point turner or pencil

Both functionaland decorative,tucks can add a bit ofinterest to an otherw ise plain-looking project.These long,narrow folds can be used to accent a pillow ,add a design elem ent to the bottom edge ofa skirt,or m ake the classic pin tuck–style tuxedo shirt! It’s easiest to use a thin,crisp fabric that w illhold a crease w hen pressed,since this technique is done by follow ing the guide oflots ofpressed folds.Stitching a straight line is allyou need to know to create this rather com plicated–looking design

Iron

Turning point

W rong side

01 Press a line

02 Create a crease

Pressa line 3⁄ 4 inch (2 cm )from the edge ofthe fabri c.Slide the fabri c

U si ng the tip oredge ofthe iron,pressthe fold dow n the len gth ofthe

back to m easure 3⁄ 4 inch (2 cm )again.

fabri c,creating a crisp crease.


Be carefulnotto cut through the stitching

03 Keep

sliding for m ore tucks

Continue to slide the fabric to the left,and pressevery 3⁄4 inch (2 cm). Do this forasmany tucksasyou’d like to create.

Tucks can be vertical orhorizontal

05 Press

folds to one side

After allthe rowsaresewn,pressallthe foldsto one side.

04 Sew

straight stitches dow n the folds

Straight stitch down

the length of each fold using a 1⁄8-inch (.3 cm) seam allowance from the fold edge.Use the inside of the foot asa guide.

The tucks are pressed to one side.The top ofthe fabric is folded overto show the reverse side

06 U se your tucks in

a p roject

Your tucksarenow ready to be used in your sewing project. Sewing for Beginners 93

The next step

D arts What you need Ruler Fabric marking tool Iron

D arts are sort oflike angled pleats.They help add the perfect shape to shirts,jackets,and dresses.Ifyou’ve got som ething that doesn’t fit quite right,you just m ight need to add a dart or adjust one that’s already there.You’llbe am azed at the difference a good dart can m ake to the overalllook!

Straight pins

This is a m ulti-size pattern;the dart lines have been highlighted at the correct size

01 Mark the points M ark the three points ofthe dart

with pins.The pink pin ispoked through the tissue pattern.

The fabric should b e m arked on the w rong side

02 D raw your lines U se yourrulerand fabric m arking toolto draw lines from the two side pinsto the centerpoint.This createsa slend ertriangle.


Inside corner This is how you create an inw ard corner cut into tw o pieces offabric.The fabric is sew n w ith the right sides together

N otice how the side seam is now also lined up

03 Fold and pin

04 Stitch down the line

Fo ld up the fabri c so the draw n lines are lined up.The pointw illbe the

W ith the top side folded under,stitch a straightline on the draw n line,

end ofthe fold.Use straightpins to poke throu gh both layers to see

rem oving the pins asyou sew .The angled line w illend atthe pointw ith

w h ether the m arkings are lined up exactly.

one backstitch.

Sleeve Side seam

Dart

Dart

05 O pen,press and flip

Side seam

06 Press the dart line c overto the rightside,and use the tip ofthe iron to Turn the fabri

O pen the piece back up ,and pressthe dartdo w n tow ard the bottom of

carefully pressthe dartline.Be sure thatthe po intm akes a sm oo th

the shirt.Flip over,and press carefully atthe point.

transition to the fl at fab ri c. Sew ing forBeginners 95

The next step

Applying appliqué You can do a variety ofstyles ofappliqué— raw edge,satin stitched,double layer and reverse appliqué,etc.Appliqué can be used to add pop or flair to a project or patch a tear or hole

Satin stitch

D oub le layer

Raw edge


Basic appliqué H ere,we show you how to sew an appliqué— som ething you’llbe using foryears to com e!

N otice the textured surface— that’s the glue.The sm ooth side is the paperbacking

A traced d esign from a tem plate drawn on the rightside ofthe fabric is used for the ap pliqué

01 Find fusib le w

eb

02 Cut fusible w

eb and iron to design

Cuta piece ofthe fusible w eb large enough to coverthe area ofthe

M ake sure you have fusible w eb , such asH eatand Bond orW onder

appliqué design.Iron itto the w rong side ofthe fabri c, textured side

U nder— it’ snecessary to do the appliqué.You can fi nd fusible w eb in

dow n.Coverthe fusible w eb w ith a pressing cloth to protectitand the

sheetsora roll.

surface ofthe iron.

U se yourregu larscissors to cut out the appliqué;the glue residue would wreck yourfabric shears

The shine on the back of the fab ric is the glue after the paperis peeled away

03 Cut design

04 Peelpaper backing

Letitcoo l.Cutoutthe design, m aking sure to cutthrou gh the fabri c and

Carefully peeloffthe paperbacking.You should see the backside ofthe

the paperbacking .

design covered w ith a clear, shiny sheet.


The next step

The firstlayerh as been pressed and straigh tstitched justinside the raw edge

05 Position design and stitch

06 D oub le-layer appliqué

Position the design on your fabric,and presswith a hotiron to heat up the glue backing and fuse itto the fabric.O nceitcools,stitch around the edge with your desired stitch.

To create a double-layer appliqué,simply pressand stitch the first layer

to another piece of fabric.Trim around the edges,and apply the fusible web to the backto apply itto the project.

M aking app liqué You can make an appliqué from any printed fabric you already own.Simply iron the fusible web to the backside of the fabric,large enough to cover the design.

98


Then,cut outthe shape or graphic,peel off the backing paper,and

apply itto whatever you desire.It can go on anything from a t-shirt, to a bag,to a pillow!

U sing reverse appliqué to fix a tear Reverse appliqué is done by cutting outthe desired shape from the m ain fabric and revealing the appliqué fabric underneath the open area.It’s also a quick,easy and cute way to fix a hole in som ething you wear,such as jeans

Tearin jean

Cotton fabric

01 Cut fabric Cut a piece of fabric slightly larger than the tear or hole.

Steam -A -Seam

02 Place Steam

-A -Seam

Place stripsof the Steam-A-Seam product,sticky side down,around the edgesof the right side of the fabric.Pressdown with your fingers so it sticks to the fabric.Peel off the paper backing,being sure the glue isleft on the fabric.

Be sure to have yourhand inside the p ants to separate the frontof the leg from the back ofthe leg

03 Position and press

04 H and sew

Slide the fabricright side up

Thread a hand-sewing needle with thread or embroidery floss.Stitch

into the pantsleg so the fabric fillsthe hole and the sticky edgesarearound the perimeter of the hole.Presswith an iron to heat up the glue and fuse the two fabricstogether.

to secure

tiny,decorative stitchesaround the edgesof the pantshole.Secure the thread with a small knot to finish the patch. Sewing for Beginners 99

The nextstep

Types of quilting Q uilts are a fun project that allow s you to practice severaldifferent kinds ofsew ing skills and really put them to the test

Q

uilting is a technique where you layer three fabrics to create a thicker,padded material.Itisoften used to

w ith no intersecting lines.Asyou advance in thisarea and m ove on to

create quilts, butitcan also be used to create potholders,

w alking foot, orfree -m otion foot.

placem ats, oreven pillow co vers.It’ spossi ble to quiltusi ng

yourstandard sew ing m achine footw hen w orking on sm allprojects

bigg erprojects, how ever, you’ llli kely w antto investin a quilti ng foot,

The differentquilting m etho ds are show n here— follow along and practi ce w ith sm allscrapsto perfectthe technique.

Backing fabric layer

Q uilt batting

Top fabric layer Free-m otion foot

1⁄4-inch (.6 cm ) quilting foot

A rotary cutter,ruler,and selfhealing m at are used to cut strips and b locks quickly

Note:M ostquilted projectsare finished offw ith quiltbinding that w rapsarou nd the layered raw edges. You can buy itprepackaged orm ake yourow n in a variety ofw idths.


Channel and diamond quilting Channelquilting features accurate,evenly spaced,straightlines.The lines can be horizontal, vertical,ordiagonal

Pin through allthree layers to keep the fabrics from shifting

The pins are placed around the m achine foot;it’s bestto leave them in while sewing

01 Layer fabrics and mark

02 Stitch layers together

Layer the three fabrics,with the quilt batting between the top and backing layers,right side facing out.Starting at the center,markyour stitching line on the top layer.

Following your marked line,straight stitch through allthree layers.Keep the fabric layerssandwiched together and guide them through asone solid unit.

The lines shown here are stitched on the diago naland spaced 1 inch (2.5 cm )apart

03 Measure,mark and stitch

04 Create a diamond pattern

M easure and markthe remaining lines.Continue to straight stitch along

Draw linesthat intersect with your first set of diagonal linesto create a diamond pattern,and pin to prevent the fabric from puckering.Straight stitch along allof the marked lines.

all of the evenly spaced marked lines.Remove the pen markswith a light mist of water.


The next step Stitch in the ditch quilting Stitch in the ditch quilting draws attention to the pieced design because itfollows the seam lines

Safety pins are often used so thata longterm project can b e safely folded while held in storage

01 Layer the design Layer the pieced design at the top of your quilt stack.Pin through all three layers,leaving space for the machine foot to sew without having to remove the pins.

02 Stitch into the well of the seam Sew a straightstitch right into the well of the seam.Keep

the fabric tight,

and guide itthrough without letting the layersshift.

W alking foo t

03 Stitch to emphasize the design

04 Walking foot

The stitched line issewn right into the seam to emphasize the design

A walking foot hasa setof feed dogson the bottom of the foot.Thisis designed to workwith the feed dogson the machine to pull both layers of fabric together evenly.

and have each section stand out.When done with a matching thread, you’ll only notice the outlined shape.

O utline quilting O utline quilting can m ake yourdesign pop— here are som e tips to try:

M ethod 1

M ethod 2

01 Stitch along the pattern

02 Corner seams

Stitch along the pattern of the fabric to create an outline design.Pin

Stitch 1⁄ 4 inch (.6 cm)away from the pieced seams,pivoting at the

and stitch,following the same instructions mentioned in step 1 of Channel and Diamond Q uilting. 102 Sewing for Beginners

corners.Use the 1⁄4-inch quilting foot asa guide to keep the seamsneat and consistent.

Free-m otion quilting To geta little adventurous with yourquilting,why don’tyou try free-m otion quilting? Itm ay seem a little daunting atfirst,butitreally is quite easy to m aster

Free-m otion quilting requires a specialfootcalled a darning foot

N otice the feed dogs are in the up position

01 Rem

ove foot

02 Replace

foot

Place the new footon the screw , and tighten itto secure.Be sure to

Rem ove the currentfootand stem w ith the toolincluded w ith your

check the needle positi on;itneedsto line up w ith the hole in the foot.

m achine.Loosen itjustenough to slide the enti re piece ou t.

Referto the specific instructionsforyourm achine.

U se both hands to create swirltype m ovem ents.The fabric won’tm ove unless you guid e it The feed do gs sho uld be down below the throatplate

03 Low er the feed dogs

04 M

ove the fabric to design

W ith yourm achine setto a straightstitch, beg in sew ing .The fabri c

Locate the button orleverand pressorpullto low erthe feed dogson

w illb e free to m ove around to create anyrand om design you choose.

yourm achine.Thisisa crucialstep in the free -m otion tech nique.

Practice thism ethod to perfectit.


The nextstep

U sing interfacing What is it used for? Interfacing is applied to a layer offabric to add shape, support, structure, or firm ness to collars, cuffs, w aistbands, and pockets.It is also used to stiffen fabrics used in craft projects, such as purses or fabric boxes. Interfacing com es in tw o types:fusib le and sew -in.Each type has varying w eaves— knit, w oven, and nonw oven— and can be light, m edium , or heavy in w eight.Interfacing is usually found in w hite/cream orblack.

Fusible w oven m edium -w eigh t plush

Fusible no nw oven m idw eight


Fu sib le knit trico t

“The w eightofsew n-in interfacing should alw ays be the sam e as the fabric you’ re using”

Sew -in w oven m edium w eight

Fusible no nw oven

Fusible w oven 100%

heavyw eigh t

cotton lightw eight

H ow do you choose the right type? W hen you’re sew ing w ith a pattern, it w illusually specify the type, w eave, and w eight ofinterfacing required, so be sure to read the instructions thoroughly. The w eight ofsew n-in interfacing should be the sam e as the fabric— for exam ple, m edium -w eight fabric w ould use m edium w eight interfacing.The intended use also determ ines the w eight you need— a cuffm ay need a stiffer interfacing than a flop py-style collar, for instance. Alw ays choose knit interfacing for knit fabrics.This includes stretch fabrics and jersey knits, w here it’s necessary to have the interfacing stretch w ith the fabric. N onw oven interfacing is allpurp ose and can be cut in any direction, so it is the m ost econom icalform ofinterfacing.It can pretty m uch be used on any w oven fabric except for som ething sheer, like silk. Like fabric, w oven interfacing has a lengthw ise and crossw ise grain and needs to be cut in the sam e direction as the fabric it is usedw ith. For best results, use dark-colored interfacing w ith dark fabrics and the w hite or natural-colored interfacing w ith light fabrics.

Fusible interfacing is the easiest to use and w illw ork w ith m ost fabrics.It has a textured side w ith glue applied to it.It is heat activated, so allyou have to do is place the interfacing textured side dow n on the w rong side ofthe fabric and press it w ith a hot iron to heat up the glue and fuse or bond it to the fabric.You shouldn’t use fusib le interfacing on a fabric that can’t be ironed at a high heat or a heavily textured fabric, because it w on’t stay fused.It also shouldn’t be used on som ething like lace, because the glue w illleave a residue on the front side ofthe fabric. Read the directions that com e w ith your fusib le interfacing;each w eight and type w illhave specific instructions related to heat and the tim e it takes to bond.G enerally, you w illpress the fusib le interfacing in sections by picking up the iron and setting it back dow n.You w on’t slide the iron around, because doing so m ay shift the layers.You’llalso w ant to use a pressing cloth to protect the surface ofthe iron from any glue residue. Sew -in interfacing is applied by being sew n to the fabric layer and is less com m only used than the fusib le type as it is a m ore painstaking process.It’s stilla valuable skillthough.


The next step

Pockets Pockets are both functionaland decorative.You can have a pocket tee,pants pockets, backpockets,cargo pockets and even zipp ered pockets.Every project is unique,and eachpocket m ay have its ow n set ofinstructions,so be sure to refer to your pattern ortutorialinstructions for sp ecifics.The pieces used to illustrate the steps here for attaching apocketw ere cut outfrom a purchased pattern

Follow along to see how easy it is What you need Cut-out fabric p ocket Iron Fabric m arking tool D on’t stitch across the top

01 Create a top edge

Point turner

02 Stitch top edge Straightstitch ata 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm )seam

Pressthe top edge ofthe pocketund er1⁄ 4

allow ance from the top edge on the rightside,

inch (.6cm ).W ith the rightsides together,

being sure to keep the folded edge turned up

pressthe top edge over1 inch (2.5cm ).

asitg oes underthe foot.

03 Create shape

04 Turn inside out

Sew dow n and arou nd the perim eterofthe pocketedge.Follow the

Turn the folded edge rightside ou t.Use a point turner ora pen cilto

corners or curved edges,keep ing a consi stentseam allow ance.

push the corners out to a sharp point.


05 Press into shape

06 Position

07 Pin

Pressthe pocket edgesunder along the stitching line,following the shape of the pocket corners.

Position the pocket where you’d like itto go,or to line up with the markingson the garment transferred from a pattern.

Pin the outside edgesof the pocket,being careful to only go through the pocket and a single layer of fabric.

09 Pivot at corners Use the needle-down position to pivotat the corners.Remember to remove the pinsas yousew.

08 Sew

along the edges

Sew a straightstitch just along the edge of the pocket.Backstitch at the beginning to reinforce

and secure.

10 Finaltouches Backstitch

to finish the seam at the top-left side of the pocket.Your pocket isnow done and ready to use! Sewing for Beginners 107

The next step

Attaching a collar The m ost com m on w ay to finish a neck opening is by attaching a collar.The sim plest type of collar to attach is a convertible collar,w hich is sew n directly to the neckline ofthe shirt w ithout a collar stand and lined w ith a sim ple facing to give it a clean,finished look You should read and follow yourpattern instructionsto know the exact m ethod foryourspecific project,buton the nextfew pages,Ishow you the basic idea forattaching a collarusing a sim p le shirtdesign and a basic pointed collar.

What you need Standard foot attachm ent Scissors Iron

This is called staystitching

Straight pins Point turner or pencil

N otice the sm all cuts are about 1 inch (2.5 cm )apart

01 Sew the seams shut Sew the sho ulderseam sand

stitch a straightstitch around the neck opening.Sew the collarand turn itrightside out.Usean iron to press the collarand shoulderseam sopen.

02 Make small cuts Snip

into the seam allowance justup to the stitching line.

The snip s w illhelp the seam allow ance stretch open

03 Pin the collar W ith the notcheslined up,pin the collarto the shirt.Startatthe centerin back and work yourway to the front. 108 Sewing forBeginners

04 Sew a straight stitch Using a basting stitch ,sew a straightstitch along the edge ofthe co llar.

The facing pieces provided in the pattern have fusible interfacing applied with an iron

The collaris sandwiched between the shirtand the facing

05 Line up

the facing

Line up the facing by matching the center front point followed by the notchesto the center back,and pin.

06 Keep

pinning

Continue to pin the facing along the front and neck edges.Be sure to keep the piecessmooth and flat.

U se a pointturnerto get crisp,pointed corners

07 Sew

up the center front

Using the recommended seam allowance,begin straight stitching up the center front and pivot the corner to continue sewing around the neckopening and down the other side.

08 Trim

and grade

Trim cornersand curvesusing the techniques you learned

earlier in the book.G rade the seam allowances for a crisp edge.Turn the fabric right side out.

Collarand shirtb ack

Facing

Th is is called edgestitching

09 Stitch the neck seam With the seam allowance pointing down toward the facing and the shirt backpushed outof the way,straight stitch along the neckseam. Sewing for Beginners 109

The next step

Setting a sleeve O nce you’ve created a sleeve,you’llbe ready to attach it to the shirt.This is called setting a sleeve.The key to a com fortable sleeve is adding a bit ofease in the shoulder.Easing is sim ilar to gathering,but doesn’t create tucks or visible gathers.H ere are the basic steps for setting a sleeve;refer to your pattern instructions for specifics on the type ofsleeve and attachm ent What you need Standard foot attachm ent Fabric marking tool Iron Straight pins Scissors Narrow ironing sleeve b oard (or rolled towel)

Sew tw o row s of basting stitches betw een dots

01 Basting stitches O nce the sleeve is cut,sew tw o row s ofbasting stitches betw een the EA SE do tm arks.

02 Press seam Sew the sleeve side seam ,and press op en w ith an iron on a sleeve board.I fyou do n’th ave a sleeve board,rollup a tow eltightly and slide the sleeve over itto pressthe seam . 110 Sew ing forBeginners

“Easing issim ilarto gathering, butdoesn’tcreate tucks or visible gathers”

Pullthe bob bin threads to ease the shoulderto fititinto the top area of the arm ho le

03 Start pinning

04 Straight stitch

With the sleeve right side outand the shirt inside out,begin pinning the sleeve to the armhole.M atch up the notchesand underarm seam.

Sew with a standard straightstitch around

05 Trim

06 Press

allow ance and secure seam

4 inch (.6 cm).Use a basic zigzag stitch Trim the seam allowance to 1⁄ around the edge of the armhole to finish the seam.

the entire armhole,just past the ease stitching.Be careful notto sew any tucksor folds.

and turn right side out

Pressthe seam allowance carefully;thiswill help to shrinkup any tiny tucksor gathers.Turn the shirt right side out. Sewing for Beginners 111

The next step

Making a waistband Ifyou can sew a straight seam ,you can easily m ake a w aistband.Interfacing is used to give body and shape to the w aistband and keep it from getting crinkled.You can use severaltypes ofinterfacing for a w aistband;w e used a lightw eight nonw oven fusible interfacing

What you need D on’t overheat the glue on the interfacing or it w on’t stick

Standard foot attachm ent

Measuring tape Fabric m arking tool

Iron Straight pins

Scissors Fusib le interfacing

01 Cut both materials

02 Press the interface

Fo llow ing the pattern directions,cutyour

Setthe interfacing glue side dow n on the

w aistband out ofbo th fabri c and interfacing.

w ron g side ofthe w aistband fab ri c.Press

Cu tthe interfacing justslightl y sm allerthan

quickly w ith an iron to heatup the glue and

the fabri c.

m ake itstick.

M atch up the notches on the w aistband piece w ith the top ofthe skirt

04 Pin the waistband Pin the w aistband to the skirt.N oti ce the end

05 Stitch along the edge

ofthe w aistband extend s pastthe centerback

Beg inning atthe centerback,straightstitch

Pressthe unnotched edge un der 3⁄8 inch

zi pperab ou t11⁄ 2 inches (3.75 cm )and just

along the top edge ata 5⁄8 -inch (1.5 cm )

(1cm ).This w illm ake iteasy to sew the

5⁄8 inch (1.5 cm )on the opposi te side ofthe

seam allow ance.Conti nu e arou nd to the other

finalstep .

center-back zipper.

side ofthe centerb ackop ening .

03 Press the edge


The two sides ofthe waistband are designed to overlap,so they are uneven

06 Trim

the seam

07 Press the w aistband

08 Pullop en

and fold

Pu llthe seam allow ance open on the tab that

Trim the seam allow ance to 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm ).

Pressthe w aistband up flat, keep ing the top

exten ds.Fold the top edge ofthe w aistband

Leave ituntrim m ed pastthe zipper;thisw illb e

edge pressed un der.The seam ispressed up

overtow ard the skirtw ith the rightsides

used to create the tab thatoverlap s.

tow ard the top.

tog ether, and m atch the edges.

Pin in place

Straightstitch this side ata 5⁄8 -inch (1.5 cm )seam allowance

09 Cut a slit Cuta tiny sli tangled to the cornerjustbefore the zipper.Thisw illallow the pressed edge to fold up w hile the seam allow ance on the left isflat.

This technique is called stitch in the ditch

10 Stitch dow n and pivot Straightstitch dow n from the top, pivoting at the corner, and sew a few sti tch estow ard the pressed-up edge.Backstitch to secure.

11 Trim

and turn

Trim the cornersand seam s.Turn the tw o sides rightside out.Follow ing the seam from the tab, line up the pressed-underedge to just coverthe seam along the inside.

Finish a w aistband w ith a hook closure Be sure to use a hook and eye closure that’ sdesi gned fora skirt/w aistban d.Itissturdierand a bitlargerthan sm allerones. M ark the hook’sspoton the inside ofthe overlap side.M ark the eye’ sspoton the finished side ofthe opening’ sopposi te side. U se the hand sti tch esyou learned earl ierin thisbook to secure the thread and stitch throu gh the tiny holes along the edges.

12 Stitch the bottom

edge

The bottom edge ofthe w aistband is positioned justpastthe seam .Straightstitch in the w ellofthe seam .This w illhide the

There are fourholes on the eye and six holes on the hook. Be carefulnotto sew allthe w ay throug h the w aistband to the finished side!Slide the needle throu gh justone layeroffabric.

stitch ing and give ita professi onalfinish.


The next step

Curved hems M ost peop le struggle w ith curved hem s,but once you learn this sim ple trick,your hem s w ill start to look great— and it’s very easy!This technique w orks w ellw ith a gentle curve,like on a skirt hem ,and can be done on a variety offabrics (the exam ple is show n on cotton).Practice this a few tim es,and you’llnever fear curved hem s again What you need Standard foot attachm ent Seam gauge Fabric m arking tool Iron Seam ripper Straight pins

N otice the m arks go on the w rong side ofthe fabric

01 Mark a hem line U se a seam gauge and a fabri c m arki ng tool to evenly m ark a 5⁄8 -inch (1.5 cm )hem line around the enti re curve orcircle.

02 Sew a basting stitch Sew a basting stitch along the m arked line. D onotbackstitch;this stitching w illb e taken outlater. 114 Sew ing forBeginners

“This technique works wellwith a gentle curve and can be done on a variety offabrics” You willnotice a b it ofpuckering;that is expected

03 Trim

excess fraying

04 Press the hem

and pin

Pressthe hem up along the sti tch ed line.Pressthe enti re hem .W ork

The stitching line now m arks the fold line foryourhem .Ifyourfabric has excessfraying, trim itbefore continuing to the nextstep .

yourw ay arou nd the hem a second ti m e, thisti m e tucking underthe

05 Straight stitch the hem

06 Press to finish

Straightstitch the hem along the top fold.U sing a seam ripper, pullout the basting sti tch esalong the bottom edge.

raw ed ge.Pressand pin in place.

Turn the fabric rightside out, and pressthe hem ag ain fora finishedlook. Sew ing forBeginners 115

The next step

French seams A French seam encloses the raw edges ofthe fabric on the inside ofthe seam .This advanced w ay to finish a seam is best used on sheer or lightw eight fabrics.W hile the technique is sim ple, you m ust pay specialattention to the direction ofthe fabric to be sure you end up w ith the correct finished side What you need Standard foot attachm ent

Scissors Iron

Fabric or existing project

The finished side ofthe fabric is facing out

01 Place fabric together Place tw o pieces offabric w ith the w rong si des together.Sew a straightseam at1⁄ 4 inch (.6 cm )(this w illfi tinto the standard 5⁄8-inch 5 cm ]seam allow ance). [1.

Pressing w illhelp create a nice finalseam — be sure not to skip this step

02 O pen and press O pen up the fabri c,and pressthe seam openflat. 116 Sew ing forBeginners

Ifyou’re u sing a sheer fabric,be sure to cuto ff allthe loose threads

03 Trim

the seam s

“W hile the technique issim ple, you m ustpay specialattention to the direction ofthe fabric”

04 Fold the fabric back

Being carefulnotto cutthe body ofthe fabric, trim the seam allow ance asclose to the seam asyou can (abou t1⁄8 inch [.3 cm ]).

Fo ld the fabri c back so the firstseam isenclosed.The rightsidesofthe fabri c should now be facing each other.

This is the inside view ofthe seam .Notice the raw edges are neatly tucked inside the seam

Ifyo u d idn’ttrim the loose thread s from the firstside o fthe seam ,you m ightsee them po king out here. Be sure to avoid that!

05 Sew

a straight seam

Sew a straightseam at1⁄4 inch (.6 cm ).

06 Turn over and

clip stray threads

Turn overthe fabric to see the finished side ofthe seam .Clip anystray thread sthatm igh tbe poking outthrou gh the seam ifn ecessary.


The next step

Reading the envelope M any different patterns are available w ith envelopes ofvarying layouts,but one thing they all have in com m on is the inform ation on them .H ere,w e provide an exam ple to show you w hat you’llfind on pattern envelopes

Num ber ofpattern pieces

Code num ber for ordering

5678 15 P IE C E S

D escription of garm ent or item , giving details of style and different view s included in the pattern

List ofpattern sizes in m etric and im perial m easurem ents for bust,w aist,and hips in each size

M ISSES’UN LIN ED JACKET, SKIRT, SHO RTS, AN D PAN TS.

FA BRICS: Jacket, skirt, shorts, and trousers: wool crepe, soft cottons,

Use nap yardages/layouts for shaded, pile, or o ne-way design fabrics.

Unlined, semi-fitted, V-neckjacket has short sleeves,front buttons,

sheeting, linen, silk, silk types, and lightweight woollens.Skirt, shorts,

*with nap.** without nap

optional waistlinedarts,and optional breastpocket.Straightskirt,

and trousers also challis, jacquards, and crep e.

N O TIO N S: Thread.Jacket: three7/8 in (1.2 cm)buttons;1/4 in

above mid-knee, and trousers or shorts with straight legs, have

Unsuitable for f abrics printed with obvious diagonals.Allow extra

(6 mm)shoulder pads.Skirt, trousers: pkg of 11/4 in (3.2 cm) waistband

waistband, front pleats, side seam pockets, and back zip.

fabric in order to match plaids, stripes, or one-way design fabrics.

interfacing;7 in (18 cm) zip;and one hook and eye closure.

M ETRIC (6

8

10)

(12

14

16)

(18

20

22)

Body m easurem ents

(6

8

Bust

78

80

83

87

92

97

102

107

112 cm

Bust

301 ⁄2

311 ⁄2 321 ⁄2

W aist

58

61

63.5

66

71

76

81

86

94 cm

W aist

23

24

H ip

81

84

86

91

96.5

102

107

112

117 cm

H ip

321 ⁄2

331 ⁄2 341 ⁄2

(6

8

10)

(12

14

(18

20

22)

Fabricneeded

1.70

1.70 1.70

1.80

1.80

2.10

2.20

2.20

2.20 m

Jacket

1.30

1.30 1.30

1.40

1.70

1.70

1.70

1.80

1.80 m

Jacket

115 cm*/** 150 cm*/**

A

16)

1 m of 55–90 cm lightweight fusible or non-fusible

Interfacing

45 in*/** 60 in*/**

1.6

1.6

1.6

1.6

1.9

1.9

1.9

1.9

2

m

150 cm*/**

1.2

1.2

1.3

1.3

1.3

1.3

1.4

1.4

1.5

m

ShortsB

115 cm*/**

1.6

1.6

1.6

1.6

1.9

1.9

1.9

1.9

2

m

150 cm*/**

1.2

1.2

1.3

1.3

1.3

1.3

1.4

1.4

1.5

m

PantsB

115 cm*/**

2.4

2.4

2.4

2.4

2.4

2.4

2.4

2.7

2.7

m

150 cm*

2

2

2

2

2.1

2.1

2.2

2.3

2.3

150 cm**

1.6

1.6

1.8

2

2

2.1

2.2

2.3

2.3

8

10)

10) 25

(12

14

16)

(18

20

22)

34

36

38

40

42

44 in

261 ⁄2

28

30

32

34

37 in

36

38

40

42

44

46 in

(6

8

10)

(12

14

16)

(18

20

22)

17 ⁄8

17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8

17 ⁄8

2

23 ⁄8

23 ⁄8

23 ⁄8

23 ⁄8 yd

13 ⁄8

13 ⁄8 13 ⁄8

11 ⁄2

17 ⁄8

17 ⁄8

17 ⁄8

17 ⁄8

2

21 ⁄8 yd

yd

11 ⁄8 yd of 22–36 in lightweight fusible or non-fusible

Interfacing

115 cm*/**

Skirt A

B

IM PERIAL

Bod y m easurem ents

Fabricneeded

A

N otions required for each view

Suggested fabrics suitable for garm ent or item as w ell as the not suitable fabrics

45 in*/**

13 ⁄4

17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8

17 ⁄8

2

2

2

2

60 in*/**

11 ⁄4

11 ⁄4 13 ⁄8

13 ⁄8

13 ⁄8

13 ⁄8

11 ⁄2

11 ⁄2

15 ⁄8 yd

45 in*/**

13 ⁄4

13 ⁄4 13 ⁄4

13 ⁄4

2

2

2

2

21 ⁄8 yd

60 in*/**

11 ⁄4

11 ⁄4 13 ⁄8

13 ⁄8

13 ⁄8

13 ⁄8

11 ⁄2

11 ⁄2

15 ⁄8 yd

45 in*/**

25 ⁄8

25 ⁄8 25 ⁄8

25 ⁄8

25 ⁄8

25 ⁄8

25 ⁄8

27 ⁄8

27 ⁄8 yd

m

60 in*

21 ⁄8

21 ⁄8 21 ⁄8

21 ⁄8

21 ⁄4

21 ⁄4

23 ⁄8

21 ⁄2

21 ⁄2 yd

m

60 in **

13 ⁄4

13 ⁄4 17 ⁄8

21 ⁄8

21 ⁄8

21 ⁄4

23⁄8

21 ⁄2

21 ⁄2 yd

Skirt A ShortsB PantsB

B G arm ent m easurem ents (6

(12

14

16)

(18

20

22)

Jacketb ust

92

94.5 97

101

106

111

116

121

126

Jacketw aist

81

83

89.5

94.5

100

105

110

Jacketb ack length

73

73.5 74

75

75.5

76

77

77.5

Skirt A low eredge

99

101

104

106

112

117

122

127

SkirtA length

61

61

61

63

63

63

65

ShortsB legw idth

71

73.5 76

81

86.5

94

ShortsB side length

49.5

50

51.5

52

52.5

PantsB legw idth

53.5

53.5 56

56

58.5

58.5

61

Pants B side length

103

103

103

103

103

103

O utline draw ing ofgarm ent or item ,including back view s, show ing darts and zip positions


86

51 103

G arm ent m easurem ents (6

8

10)

(12

14

16)

(18

20

22)

393 ⁄4

413 ⁄4

433 ⁄4

451 ⁄4

473 ⁄4

493 ⁄4 in

323 ⁄4 333 ⁄4

351 ⁄4

371 ⁄4

391 ⁄4

411 ⁄4

431 ⁄4

451 ⁄4 in

29

291 ⁄4

291 ⁄2

293 ⁄4 30

301 ⁄4

301 ⁄2

303 ⁄4 in

39

40

41

42

44

48

50

52

Skirt A length

24

24

24

243 ⁄4

243 ⁄4 243 ⁄4

251 ⁄2

251 ⁄2

251 ⁄2 in

ShortsB legw idth

28

29

30

32

34

39

41

43

in

Sho rtsB side length

191 ⁄2

193 ⁄4 20

201 ⁄4

201 ⁄2 203 ⁄4

21

211 ⁄4

211 ⁄2

in

63.5 cm

PantsB legw idth

21

21

22

23

in

103

Pants B side length

401 ⁄2

401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2

401 ⁄2

401 ⁄2 401 ⁄2

cm

Jacketb ust

361 ⁄4

371 ⁄4 381 ⁄4

116

cm

Jacketw aist

313 ⁄4

78

cm

Jacketb ack length

283 ⁄4

132

cm

Skirt A loweredge

65

65

cm

99

104

109

cm

53.5

54

54.5 cm

61 103

G arm ent m easurem ents box gives actualsize of finished garm ent

cm

22

46 37 23

in

24

24

25

401 ⁄2

401 ⁄2

401 ⁄2 in

Chart to follow for required fabric quantity, indicating size across top,and chosen view and correct w idth dow n the side

In a pattern envelope,you’ll find printed instructions and pattern pieces printed on tissue paper.The instruction sheet show s the variations that can be m ade;each variation is labeled w ith a letter and corresponds to specific pattern pieces.You w ill also find a cutting layout printed for each style variation.Each pattern piece w illhave specific m arkings on the pieces and im ages to show the right and w rong sides ofthe fabric.

“E-patterns usually have full-color,stepby-step pictures to walk you through”

The exciting w orld ofe-patterns E-patternsarePDFsof patternssold online.You simply payfor the pattern,download it,and printitouton your own printer. E-patternsusually have full-color,step -by-step picturesto walk you through your sewing project,and each pictureislined up with the text for easy readability. The pattern piecesprintouton standard,81⁄ 2 x 11-inch (21 x 28 cm)paper.Some e-patternsprint outa full piece on onepage.For example,a doll clothespattern hassmall-enough piecesto fit allon onepage. Larger pieces,like children-and adult-size clothing patterns,are printed outand taped together to create the full-size piece. Thisnew style of pattern isa popular trend— justsearch online to seewhat’savailable!


The next step

U nderstanding themarkings To som e,patterns m ay seem like reading G reek.H ow ever,once you becom e fam iliar w ith the m arkings,you should have no problem follow ing the pattern instructions and successfully m aking som ething new

Cutting line Cut num ber

N otches

Pattern num ber and nam e ofpiece andvariation

CUT 1 O N FO LD

Transfer m arkings (here a dart line)

6963 BACK -C,D

Size lines Fold line (here also used as the grain line)


Lengthening and shortening line

Imp ortant things to notice: T he grain line is a line w ith an arrow

at each end.Line up the piece so the grain is the sam e as the fabric.Most grain line arrow s go straight up and dow n,w hile som e are on the diagonal.

Place the fold line on the folded edge ofthe fabric;don’t cut along

this side. You can lengthen a pattern by cutting

it apart on the designated lines and adding the desired am ount in betw een the tw o pieces. Sim ply tape them together to create a longer piece.Be sure to add the sam e am ount to any other piece— for exam ple,the front and back ofa shirt should both be lengthened equalam ounts.

Patterns include a set of universalsymbols and markings. Here is what you’ll find: Cutting line

}

Multi-size cutting lines

}

G rainlines

Place-to-fold line Alteration lines

N otice any transfer m arkings on the pattern,such as button

or buttonhole placem ent,dart lines,or pocket guides.These m arkings w illneed to be draw n on the actualfabric piece.

}

Seam

line or stitching line

Seam

allow ance

N otches are used to m atch up certain sections oftw o different

Center front or back

pieces.Cut them out into the seam allow ance,aw ay from the pattern piece. Payattention to the “cut”num

ber.Is it cut 1 on fold,cut 1,or cut the best layout ofallthe pieces on your fabric.Ifyour piece is cut 1, you w illnot need to have the fabric folded w ith tw o layers w hen cutting it out.

}

2? This is very im portant.Be sure to notice this w hen deciding

H em allow ance H em line Buttonhole Com bined button and buttonhole Button position

The cutting line is the thin black line around the outside edge of

the piece.Cut just outside it through the fabric. Dart

Multi-size patterns are available to cut at different sizes.Each

size line is dashed and dotted in a different pattern.Pay special attention to this w hen cutting out your desired size.

Pleat Tuck Bustpoint or hip line

W aist or hipline

}

Markings to be

transferred from pattern pieces to the fabric for m atching or to indicate detail Single notches

D ouble notches

}

Trip le notches

Zipper placem

ent


The next step

Laying out and cutting the pieces W hen laying out and cutting the pieces for your project,pay attention to the grain line arrow s on each pattern piece and identify the grain ofthe fabric— lining these tw o up w illgive you the finished results you’re looking for.Also,follow the layout diagram so you’re sure you can fit allthe pieces on the recom m ended am ount offabric

“Your pattern m ay have special diagram s that show a different folding m ethod,so check it”

01 Fold in half

02 Lay down the pieces

Fo ld yourfabric in halflen gthw ise,w ith the rightsides together.Your

ti ng face dow n to fitbetteron Som e pieces m ay layw ith the w ri

pattern m ayhave specialdiagram s thatshow a differentfolding

thefab ric.Leave enough space betw een pieces to com fortably

m ethod ,so check itforspecifics.

cutthem ou t.


05 Pin dow

n the pieces

06 Cut Liftthe fabri c justenough to slide the scissorsun derneath— the bottom

Starting atthe top side, poke a pin dow n throug h alllayersand then back up to the top.Pin arou nd the edges ofthe pattern pieces, keep ing

blade should slide along the table orm at.Cutjustoutsi de the pattern

a few inches ofspace in betw een.

fabri c to hold itin place.

07 Pay

08 Check for im

attention to notches

piece, throu gh both layersoffab ric.Place yourotherhand flaton the

portant m arkings

Pay attention to the m arks on the pattern piece.W hen you com e across

O nce you have allofthe piecescutout, see ifthere are any special

a notch m arking, be sure to cutitoutw ard, form ing a sm alltrian gle on

m arkingsthatshould be tran sferred onto the fabri c, such asdartlinesor

the outside edge ofthe seam allow ance.

ease stitching points.


Creative projects Test your skillswith these projects

124

126

Bookm ark

127

Infinity scarf

128

PeterPan collar

129

Lace-em bellished tank

130

Q uilted potholder

133

M onogram m ed keyfob

134

Pleated pillow case

138

Pepperm intcoasters

142

Elastic-w aistskirt

146

Feltcoffee cozy

149

Sew ing m achine cover

152

Pincushion

156

D raw string flat pack

162

Picnic blanket

166

M ake-up brush holder

170

A ppliqué pillow


“Sew ing skills are notonly good to fix occasional tears – they’ re a lifesaverin allkinds ofhousehold problem s”


Creative projects

Bookmark A personalized bookm ark is a perfect first sew ing project.Using fabrics that don’t fray or stretch,such as felt or w oolfelt,m ake this project sim ple, stress–free,and fun!

What you need  K now ledge ofstraight stitching and zigzag stitching  Tw o 8×10 (20.25×25.5 cm )sheets or tw o 1⁄8-yard (11.5 cm ) pieces or sm allscraps felt or w oolfelt fabric in different colors  8 1⁄2-inch piece 1⁄2-inch-to 3⁄4-inch-w ide  (1.25 to 2 cm )ribb on (or decorative fabric ofyour choice)  Sew ing m achine  Thread  Fabric scissors  Straight pins  Ruler or m easuring tape

S

imply choose two coordinating colors for the main b ookmark and accent with either a cut fabric strip or ribbons of any width. You can m ake them in yourfavorite colorsorthe colorsofa po pularsports team .The possibilities are endless!

C–½ ×8½ inches (1.25× 21.5 cm )

A –2½ ×8 inches (6.25× 20.25 cm )

B–2×7½ inches (5×19 cm )

01 Measure and cut easure and cutthe two rectangles,A and B,outoffeltorwoolfelt.Cutone piece ofribbon orfabric forthe top layer,C. M

Be sure to keep C tucked under B w hen straight stitching

02 Start layering Place layerC on top oflayerB 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm ) from the leftedge,and pin in place.Zigzag stitch overthe edge oflayerC down the length ofthe strip,and b ackstitch ateach end to secure. 126 Sewing for Beginners

03 Fold and layer

04 Final stitches

Fold the edge oflayerC underatthe top and bottom so itisunderlayerB.Place layer B on top oflayerA;centerthem so the exposed edgesare even.Pin to secure.

Straightstitch

on allfoursides oflayerB.Backstitch atthe beginning and end ofeach row ofstitches.Yourstitching lineswillcrisscrossat the corners.

Infinity scarf This classy scarfis an im pressive addition to any outfit,but it’s surprisingly sim ple to put together, and only takes som e basic sew ing skills What you need  Know ledge ofstraight seam s  2⁄3 yard (61 cm )60-inch-w ide  (152.5 cm )fabric or 1 2 ⁄3 yards  45-inch-w ide (114.25 cm )fabric  Straight pins  Iron  Sew ing m achine

A

n infinity scarf is a long tube of fabric sewn into an enclosed circle.Itis w orn by sim ply w rapping ittw ice around the n eck and has a gentle,slouchy look.Be sure to choose a lightw eightfab ric,like cotton vo ile orsilk,ora thin knitso the scarfw illlook itsbest!

“It is w orn by sim ply w rapping it tw ice around the neck and has a gentle,slouchy look”

N otice how the fabric is right sides together

01 Cut,fold and sew

The w rong side is show n in the pinned section;the right side of the fabric is to the left

02 Turn inside out

03 Connect

Turn the tube ri ghtsi de o ut.M atch u p the

Pullthrough and press the opening flat.Pin

Cutone rectangle 60 x 25 inches (152.5× 63.5

open ends w ith the rightsi des together,and

the op ening together w ith the raw edges

cm ).Fold in halflengthw ise,and pin.Sew a

pin the enti re circle.Be sure the 3-i nch (7. 5 cm )

tucked insi de.Sew a topstitched straightseam

straightseam along the edge,leaving 3 inches

opening is lined up.Straight stitch the tw o

to close the opening,m aking sure to sew right

(7. 5 cm )op en ateach en d.

ends ofthe tub e together.

alon g the edge. Sew ing for Beginners 127

Creative projects

Peter Pan collar embellishment Add a vintage feelto a plain tank top or tee w ith the addition ofa Peter Pan collar! What you need  Know ledge offabrics,basic stitches,sew ing curved seam s,corners,and finishing seam s  Basic,store-bought,classic tank top  1⁄4-yard (23 cm )piece fab ric (such as cotton,lace,or chiffon)for collar  Sew ing m achine  Thread  Scissors  Straight pins  Iron  M easuring

tape,pencil,and paper

Shoulder seam Trim the corner seam N eckline

N otch the curve

Add a 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm )seam allow ance around the draw n piece

01 Fold and trace

02 Prepare the collar

Fold top in halfat the center front.Line up shoulder seam s.Trace the

Fab ric layered right sides together,cut four pieces.Sew a straightstitch

neckline and shoulder seam onto paper.Follow ing the n eckline curve,

at 5⁄8-i nch (1.5 cm )seam allow ance,starting atthe center frontup the

draw another l ine 2 inches (5 cm )out,and curve itup atthe center front.

outsi de curve u p to the shoulder.Pivotin tow ard the center.

Topstitch the edge ofthe collar here

Stitch on the right side ofthe tank top

Line up the basting line w ith the finished edge ofthe tank top as you pin

03 Press and place collar Turn the collar rightside out,an d press it.Bastethe open ed ge,clip the

04 Finish it off

seam allow ance.Place the u nderside o fthe collaron the b ottom ofthe

Fora m ore finished look,zigzag the raw ed ge ofthe collardow n to the

neckline,m atching the sho ulder seam and center front.Straight stitch .

tan k on the inside.Fold the collar over,and press itflat.


Laceembellished tank This sim ple trick can add flair to any basic top— and it requires the m ost basic sew ing skills What you need  Know ledge ofstraight seam s and attaching trim  Basic,store-bought, cam isole-style tank top  Lace trim ofyour choice (w e used 44 inches

[111.75 cm ]of2 1 ⁄2 -inch-w ide [6 cm ]tiered lace trim to fit on a size sm all tank.Sim ply m easure the top edge and around the hem to get the exact dim ension needed,and add a few inches for seam allow ances.)  Sew ing m achine  Thread  Straight pins

A

dd a unique look to a store-bought tank top by simply adding lace trim to the neckline,hem,or both!You can create a bun ch o f different l ooks by usi ng different colors,sizes,and types o ftrim s.M ake som e foryourselfo ryourfrien ds oreven to sell.

There should be a ½ -inch (1.25 cm ) overhang on the edge

01 Pin the trim

03 Bottom trim 02 Fold the edge

Startatthe side seam and pin the lace to the bottom edge ofthe tank top .Li ne itup to

Fold the edge o fthe lace under so itfits along

coverthe existing hem stitching line.Sti tch in

Pin the lace trim to the neck edge ofthe tank

the arm ed ge.Pin itinto place,an d straight

place justalon g the top ed ge.Fold under the

top.Line itup justbelow the finished ed ge.

stitch along the top ed ge and sides.

overlap atthe side seam . Sew ing for Beginners 129

Creative projects

Q uilted pot holder Your sew ing skills are not only good to fix the occasionaltear— they can be a lifesaver in all kinds ofhousehold problem s,like keeping your table safe from hot p ots and pans! What you need  Know ledge ofbasic stitches,straight seam s,quilting,binding and hand stitching  Tw o pieces 9-inch (23 cm )square cotton fabric,preferably in different p atterns or in a p atchw ork design  Batting  21/2 x 38 -inch (5.75 x 96.5 cm )binding fabric  Straight pins  Safety p ins  Iron  5-inch (12.75 cm )piece rib bon for loop  Sew ing m achine  W alking foot (optional)

130

Sew ing forBeginners

I

nterested in the idea of quilting,but feel a bit intimidated at the same time? M ake a potholder!It’sa greatw ay to practi ce basic quilting skil lsw hile designing a pretty and functi onalaccessoryforyourkitchen .You can

even piece tog etherscrap fab ri csto create a uniqu e patchw orkstyle design forthe top orbottom layer.

Backing Batting

Top

Binding

The fabric and batting pieces are 9 x 9 inches (23 x 23 cm )

01 Cut and assem

ble your pieces

G atheryourpieces.The batting m ayneed up to three layers, dep end ing on the thickn essyou desire.The top piece forthisw ascreated by piecing togetherstripsoffabric before cutting ou t.

02 Layer and pin Layerthe three squ are pieces.Pin them usi ng safety pinsorstraightpins, m aking sure to coverm ostofthe area to preventthe piecesfrom sliding.

This seam willbe covered by the finalbinding

03 Q uilt along the

lines

Fo llow ing the linesofthe fabri c, quiltalong the seam lines, orm irror

04 Place rib bon

them by sew ing along the line but1/4 inch aw ay.Sew arou nd allfour

Fo ld the ribbon in halflen gthw ise, and sew to the top cornerofthe

edgesasw ell.

backside ofthe potholder.

You can m ake your ow n quilted piece for the top layer,but ifyou’re not confident in your quilting yet,you can choose a fabric w ith a vibrant design and sew along the design elem ents for step 3. Sew ing forBeginners 131

Creative projects

Begin the binding along the side – d on’tstartatthe corner

05 Place and sew binding Fold the binding fabric in half lengthwise,right sidesout,and press.With the raw edgeslined up,start by placing the binding along oneof the sides,and stitch along the edge.

07 O verlap and sew Fold the binding backup to overlap the diagonal fold.Pin,and sew along the side.Repeat for all four corners.

09 H and stitch binding Fold the binding over the raw edge of the pot holder.Hand stitch using a whipstitch to sew down the binding to the backside of the pot holder. (You also have the option of doing a topstitch on your machine.) 132


06 Create diagonalfold Fold the binding fabric down to create a diagonal fold pointing in from the corner.Pressthe fold flat.

08 Trim and fold raw end When the binding reachesthe starting point,trim any excesslength, turn the edge under,and layer over the other raw end.Pin in place,and continue straight stitching the seam.

Monogrammed key fob There’s no forgetting w hose keys are w hose w ith this sim ple project for a personalized key fob What you need  Know ledge ofcurved seam s,app liqués,and quilting  Tw o coordinating

cotton fabrics,preferab ly in different patterns,cut into sm allcircles ofthe sam e size (1 3/4 inches [4.5 cm ]in this exam ple)  Sm allpiece felt for center layer,cut into the sam e-size circle  Lightw eight fusible interfacing (such as W onder-U nder)  Key ring  2-inch-long (5 cm )tw illtape or 1/2-inch-w ide (1.25cm )rib bon

A

dding a stylish key fob is a great way to personalize a set of keys.You can m ake key fobs in a variety ofshapesand sizes,so have fun w ith fabrics and yourch oice ofappliqué.M ake one foryourselfo r even a friend!

The interfacing is app lied on w rong side ofthe fabrics

Trim the edge ofthe circle w ith pinking shears for a finished look

02 Layer and stitch felt

02 Insert

Layerthe three circles w ith the feltin the

Fo ld the tw illtap e overthe key ri ng,and slide

Cutoutand apply fusible interfacing to the

centerand the rightsides facing ou t.Stitch

the raw ed ges into the op ening in the fabri c

backsides ofthe tw o cotton fab rics.Add the

arou nd the edge ofthe circle,leaving a sm all

betw een the fabri c layers.Pin and stitch the

ap pliqué to the top layer.

op ening atthe top .

rem aindero fthe circle.

01 Cut,apply fusible web

tape


Creative projects

Pleated pillowcase U sing the knife pleats you learned on page 88,you w illnow put this skillto use in your very ow n decorative pillow What you need Know ledge ofstraight seam s,knife pleats,and topstitching trim Prem ade or store-bought pillow case 3-inch-w ide x 120-inch-long (7.5 x 305 cm )contrasting fabric strip (for a standard-size pillow case) Straight pins M easuring tape Fabric m arking pencilFabric scissors 1⁄4-inch-w ide× 21-inch-long (.6 x 53.25 cm )rib bon (or trim ofyour choice) 1⁄4-inch-w ide (.6 cm )fusible w eb (such as Steam -A Seam ) Iron

C

reate your own unique bedding by personalizing a plain pillowcase!Adding a simple pleated strip of fabric and a ribbon embellishment are quick and easy ways to freshen up the look of your bedding.This is

a great project for someone just learning to sew— just a few basic sewing skills are required, and everything comes together pretty quickly!


Top Tip You can custom ize this design to your ow n p illow s,w hatever size or shape they m ight be.If you have a set ofp illow s in your living room or bedroom ,you can custom m ake different sets ofcases for each pillow .It com pletely changes the look ofthe room !

Pillowcase Press and baste stitch along both long sides to h old the pleats

Fab ric strip Ribbon

01 M easure and cut

02 Pleat strip Pleat the strip usi ng the knife p leat m etho d,form ing 1-inch (2.5 cm )

M easure an d cutoutthe strip offabric.You can sew shorter pieces

pleats along the entire len gth.W ith the rightsi des together,sew the

togetherto m ake one long strip ifd esired .

shortends ofthe strip together to form a loop.

Finish offthe edges ofthe seam s with a zigzag stitch to preventfraying

03 Place strip

04 Sew and press

M easure 5 inches (12.75 cm )in from the open end o fthe pillow case,

W ith the rightsi des together,line up the raw ed ges ofthe other si de

m ark it,and cutitoff.W ith the rightsides together,pin the pleated strip

ofthe pleated strip w ith the cut-offp ortion ofthe pillow case,and sew

to the open edge ofthe pillow case.

them together.Pressso bo th seam s point aw ay from the o pening .


Creative projects

05 Place fusib le w eb on rib bon

06 Position ribb on

Use your fingers to press the textured, sticky side of the fusible web onto the backside of the ribbon.

Peel off the paper backing and firmly place the ribbon, sticky side down, in the space between the pleats and the stitching line of the pillowcase.

07 Press ribbon Press a section of the ribbon with a hot iron to heat up the glue and fuse it to the p illowcase— fiveseconds under the iron is enough time.Pick up and press the next section until all the ribbon hasbeen pressed.Fold under the cut end at the overlap. 136


ribb b on for for durab durabil ility 08 Stitch rib Even though thou gh the ribbon ribb on is fused, fused, for extra durability, tops top stitch titch alongboth bo th outside edges of the ribbon. ribbon .Slide your p illow inside, inside, and andyou’ you’re finished fin ished! !

“Pres ess sa sectio ion n ofthe rib ibb bon to fuse it itt to the pillowc wcase ase – five sec eco ond nds siseno enou ugh tim e”


C rea eati tiv ve pr pro oject ects s

Peppermint coasters This proj p roject m ay seem seem a little fiddl fiddly, y,b b ut it only requires req uires the m ost b asic sew ing skills that you w illh lhave ave picked up b y this point p oint What you need stitch  2 colored  Know ledge ofhand sew ing a running stitch felt squar sq uares es  1 w hite fel felt square sq uare  6×4 6× 4-inch inch (15×10 cm ) piece pie ce fusible w eb,such as W onderU nder  Em broide broidery ry thread in tw o colors that m atch the felt colors  H andandsew ing needle w ith large eye  Scissors  Straight pins  Iron ro n  Traced Traced pattern pieces from this book

W

hether you’ you ’re planning plann ing a casual cas ual gettogether or a festive holiday party,these cute coasters will set the theme! Rem iniscent scentofp epp ep p erm intC ntC hristm as

cand can d ies, th ese coast co astersm ersm ade w ith fel eltare the p erfect ectp roject ec t fory oryou to p racti acti ce yourhand yourhand-sew in g sti tch es.This p roject ect req uires very little exp eri en ce and d o esn’tuse use a sew ing m achin e, w hich is p erfect ec tfora ora b egi eg inn er.

138 Sew ing forBegi eg inner ne rs

Lar Larger gercircle color A

01 Cut out pattern

usib ib le w eb 02 Place fus

Using the pattern,cutone ut one larger circle from color A and one of each of each color from the smaller circle pattern.Cut two two piecesof pieces of tthe fusible web.

Place the fusiblewe fusible web b on the backside of t of the felt,paper side facing up. Iron for for just a few few secondst seconds to fuse itt it to the felt.

irlp p atterns 03 Place sw irl

irlpattern patterns s 04 Cut sw irl

Place the color B pattern on top of t of the color B felt circle.Pin inside the colored areas;thewhite areas;the white sectionswill sections will be removed.Repeat for for color A.

Cut outt out the swirl pattern,being careful as you you get get close to the center of the circle.Repeat for for colorA.

irl ls 05 Fusib le sw ir

Peeland eland p lace sw irls 06 Pe

of each swirl color that The paper backing is still applied to the backside of each you’ you’ve now cut out.

Peel off t off the paper backing from swirl B and place iton it on top of t of the white felt circle.Presswith circle.Press with an iron to fuse the two two fabricstogether. fabricstogether. Sewing for for Beginners 139

Creative projects Running stitch

07 Em

broider blue sw irl

08 Place red sw irl

XCuta 2-foot(61 cm )length ofem broidery thread, and sep arate in half. Thread yourneedle w ith the three strands.Starting from underthe w hite side, sew a running stitch dow n the centerofeach sw irl.

Place the colorA sw irlon top ofthe colorB sw irlan d rotate so the sw irls

09 Em

10 A ttach to red circle

broider red sw irl

fitin the w hite spacesbetw een the colorB sw irl s.Pressto fuse the color A sw irl.

, U se a running stitch and sew dow n the centerofeach colorA sw irl

Place the w hite circle on top ofthe large colorA circle.U sing a runn ing

keep ing the stitch esevenly spaced.Secu re the knotson the backside.

stitch, sew arou nd the outside edge ofthe w hite circle to com plete.


The pattern pieces should be traced onto paper and cut out

U se above pattern for swirl placement

Swirl Pattern:Cut 1 of felt color A

Coaster Base:Cut 1 of felt color A

Circle pattern: Cut 1 of felt color white,and 2 of Wonder U nder

Swirl pattern:Cut 1 of felt color B


Creative projects

Elasticw aist skirt The best part about mastering the art of sewing is that you can design your own clothing for any occasion W hat you need  Knowledge of straight seams,elastic casing,and attaching trim  44-inch-wide x 20-inch-tall (111.75 x 51 cm)cotton fabric (this fits a 28-inch [71 cm]waist)  To customize the size:width = 9 inches (23 cm)+ hip measurement;length = 3 inches (7.5 cm)+ desired length (for example,from waist to knee)  45-inch-long (114.25 cm)trim  2-inch-wide (5 cm)elastic 29 inches (74 cm)in length  Straight and safety pins  Sewing machine  Measuring tape  Scissors  Iron  Seam gauge

D

id you know you can m ake a skirt w ithout using a pattern? You can— and it’sreally easy,too!The skirt featured here ismade from lightweight,woven cotton

fabric cut into a long rectangle,hasan elastic casing at the waist,and isaccented with a tiny trim along the hemline.Thisis the simp lesttype of skirt to make.Why notmake several and have a new skirt forevery day of the week?

“This is the simplest type of skirt to make. Why not make several for every day of the week?” 142 Sewing for Beginners

You can finish the edges with a zigzag stitch before sewing the seam fora m ore finished look

01 Cut fabric,elastic and trim

02 Fold and

Cutoutthe skirtfabri c to the specified m easurem ents.M easure and cut

W ith the rightsidestogether, fold the skirtfabri c in half, m atching up the

the elastic and the trim piece.

shortsides.Sew a straightseam w ith a 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm )seam allow ance.

03 Press seam Lay the skirtflat, and pressthe seam open.

sew

04 Create a hem Create a narrow hem along the bottom edge ofthe skirtby folding tw ice at1⁄ 4 inch (.6 cm ).Pressand pin to hold itin place.

Sew ing your ow n skirt is handy for m any reasons.Ifyou are exceptionally tallor have unusual m easurem ents highstreet stores don’t cater for,you can adjust your skirt to your exact needs. Sew ing forBeginners 143

Creative projects

Position the trim so ithangs pastthe edge ofthe fabric

05 Attach trim

06 Press top edge

Turn the skirtto the rightside, and carefully pin the trim to the pinn ed hem line.Straightstitch to secure the trim and create the hem .

Create an elastic casing by firstpressi ng the top edge ofthe skirtunder 1⁄2 inch (1.25 cm ).D o this arou nd the enti re top edge.

The seam gauge will help you create a nice, consistentcasing

07 Fold top edge again

08 Stitch edge

M easure 2 1⁄4 inches (5.75 cm ), and fold the top edge overag ain allthe

Straightstitch along the bottom folded edge, leaving a 3-inch (7.5 cm )

w ay arou nd the skirtto create the casing forthe elasti c.Pressagain.

op ening to feed in the elastic.


09 Feed elastic into

the casing

Secure a safety pin in the end ofthe elastic.Feed itinto the casing, and pullitallthe w ay throu gh so itcom esoutthe otherside.Be sure to keep

10 Pullends

out

Scrunch up the fabric overthe elastic and pullboth ends outso you

the otherend outofthe casing.

have enough space to fitthem underyoursew ing m achine foot.

11 Sew

12 Sew

ends together

Rem ove the safety pin, and sew the tw o endstogether.Z igzag stitch dow n the seam allow ance so itliesflaton the elastic.

opening shut

Slide the elastic into the casing and stitch the op ening closed , by hand orby m achine.The skirtisnow read y to w ear! Sew ing forBeginners 145

Creative projects

Felt coffee cozy O ften bring your own coffee into the office? Why not p ersonalize your cup and protect your hands at the same time? What you need  Knowledge of straight seams and zigzag stitching  Felt fabric in one color  Fleece fabric in one color (you can also use felt for the top layer)  Scissors  Pinking shears  Sewing machine  Handsewing needle  Traced, cut-out pattern piece from this book

A

felt coffee cozy is a perfect first sewing project. It has just tw o pieces to cut out,uses felt fabric that doesn’t need to be hem m ed,and has very few steps to follow to com plete it. W hether you’re drinking coffee,tea,or a yum m y cup ofhot cocoa,your hands w illthank you for this cozy.

Top layer

01 Cut out the pattern Cut out the fabrics using the provided pattern pieces.Cut the top and bottom edges ofthe bottom layer offelt w ith pinking shears for a decorative look. Bottom layer

02 Place top pattern onto bottom layer Place the print top layer on top ofthe b lue bottom layer,centering it so there’s an equaldistance at the top and bottom edges.


03 Zigzag the top

04 Zigzag the bottom

Sew a zigzag stitch along the top ed ge ofthe fleece,being sure to keep

Stitch a zigzag stitch on both the top and bottom ed ges.The stitch

the fabric evenly spaced from the edge.

shou ld coverthe raw edge.

05 Connect the sides

06 Clip

W ith the ri ghtsi des together,fold the p iece in halfan d line up the center

G rade the seam allow ance by clipping on e side ofthe seam close to the

back seam .Pin and straightstitch at a 1⁄ 4-inch (.6 cm )seam allow ance.

stitch ing line.

seam allow ance

This handy little item requires little fabric,so it’s a nice extra p roject to do after you’ve finished a larger piece and have som e spare pieces offabric lying around. Sew ing for Beginners 147

Creative projects

This is the inside view ofthe cozy

07 Stitch seam

dow n

08 Trim

Fold the seam allowance over to one side.Thread a hand-sewing needle, and stitch the edge down flat to reduce the bulk.

Top layer

Cut on fold

Bo ttom layer

148


and turn

O nce the seam is stitched, secure the end and clip the threads.Turn the coffee cozy right side out, and slide it onto your coffee cup!

Sewing machine cover You w ant to keep your sew ing m achine free from dust and dirt,and the best w ay to do that is w ith your ow n custom -m ade cover What you need Know ledge ofstraight seam s and sew ing corners  27 x 45-inch (68.5 x 114.25 cm )piece or severalsm aller 7 x 8-inch (17.75 x 20.25 cm )pieces cotton fabric in coordinating colors  Straight pins  M easuring tape  Scissors  Sew ing m achine  Iron

K

Cover pieces to measure and cut            

eeping your sewing machine covered is a great way to extend the life of your machine.M ostm od elscom e w ith a plain w hite

      

coverthat’ sa little bland!H ow ever, you can use itasa guide to create

Note:Thiscoverfitsm

a fun and m ore interesting fabri c cover.The coverfeatured here hasa

To custom ize the size to yourspecific m achine, you can

functionalside pocketand isreversi ble, too.It’ sa greatw ay to brighten up your

oststandard sew ing m achines.

m easure the m anufacturer’ scoverand m ake adjustm ents.

sew ing space!

 149

Creative projects

01 Create a hem

02 Attach pocket

Pressand fold under the top edge of the pocket to create a 3⁄4-inch (2 cm)hem.Pin and straightstitch along the bottom folded edge.

Place the pocket right side up on the bottom edge of the side piece.Pin and stitch around the sidesand bottom edge.Remove the pins.

03 Pin sides to back piece With the right sidestogether,pin the side piece to the backpiece,lining up the edges.Clip a small slit into the seam allowance,where the side will turn the corner.

04 Start stitching Start at the bottom and straightstitch up

to the corner.Pivot,and continue sewing acrossthe top and down the other side.

Check your progress by fitting your project over your m achine,or holding it up to your m achine at regular intervals.This w ay you’llm ake sure the corners are positioned correctly. 150


05 Pin front p iece With the right sidestogether,pin the front piece to the other long side of the side piece.Repeat the sewing instructions in step 4.

06 Repeat p rocess for lining Repeat steps 2 through 5 for the inside lining pieces.

Leave a 9-inch (23 cm )space open along the bottom so the cover can be turned rightside out

07 Insert lining

08 Stitch

bottom edge

With the right sidestogether,slide the lining inside the outside piece. Line up the front and backpiecesand allof the seams.Pin around the bottom edge.

Straight stitch around

09 Turn edge

10 Stitch bottom

Pressthe bottom edge flat,and turn the raw edge of the opening under 5⁄8 inch (1.5 cm).Fold the open section in toward the inside to line up with the seam,and pin.

Topstitch around

the bottom edge with a 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm)seam allowance.Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure.Turn the cover right side outthrough the opening.

edge

the entire bottom edge.Pressthe cover to remove any wrinkles.Carefullyslide the cover over your machine,step back,and admire your handiwork! Sewing for Beginners 151

Creative projects

Pincushion Your pins are one of your most vital sewing tools, so it’s only logical that you have a safe and memorable place to keep them

M

aking a pincushion is a great beginning sewing project and a unique way to spruce up your sewing workspace.Ithelps you get rid of scrap m aterial,and save you having to buy a one.

Pick severaldifferentfabrics that coo rdinate w elltogether,and you’ re o n yourw ay to creating a pretty little p incushion!

Top Tip Using vib rant patterns and designs in your p incushion will ensure that you don’t lose sight of it.However, make sure you use a sturdy fabric like cotton.As you’ll be putting p ins in and out of this item, you can’t have it fraying or falling apart on you.


What you need  Small scraps cotton fabric in two colors  11 1⁄2 x 2-inch (29.25 x 5 cm) piece cotton fabric  50 inches (127 cm)thin ribbon or yarn  Hand-sewing needle  Scissors  Straight pins  Iron  Stuffing or batting  Traced

pattern piece from this book

You can choose to use a variety offabrics fora patchwo rk look for the top orb ottom

Pincushion Top and Bottom – cut8 pieces

01 Trace pattern Trace the pattern pieces onto paper.Cut out the eight pieces for the pincushion, using the pattern.

02 Separate into sets

03 Start

04 Repeat

connecting

Lay out the four top pieces and with the right sides together, line up the center seam.Pin, and straight stitch.

Separate into two sets of four

pieces for the top and bottom.

for the second half

O pen up the seam and p ress it flat.Then repeat for the bottom half of the circle. Sewing for Beginners 153

Creative projects

05 Connect the tw o halves

06 Fold and stitch side p anels

With the right sides together, line up the two halves of the circle and pin the center seam.Stitch, and p ressop en.Repeat for the bottom circle.

With the right sides together, fold the side piece in half, matching up the short ends.Pin, and straight stitch.

07 Connect top

08 C onnect bottom

circle to side piece

With the right sides together, pin the top circle to the side piece. Carefully straight stitch with a 1⁄4-inch (.6 cm)seam allowance around the entire circle. 154


circle

With the right sides together, pin the bottom circle into the other side. Leave a small opening to turn the piece right side out, and then straight stitch across the pinned line.

09 Stuffand sew

shut

Turn the pincushion right side out,and stuff with the batting.Hand sew the op ening closed, being sure to secure both ends of the stitching.

11 W

rap and tie ribbon

Wrap the ribbon around the bottom and crisscrossto wrap back up to the top, following the seam lines.Place a pin to hold it at the center.

10 Place rib bon Place the center of the long piece of ribbon on the center top of the pincushion.Pin to hold it in place.

12 W

rap around again

Continue to wrap the pincushion until it’s divided into eight sections. Wrap backup to the top, and tie the ribbon in a knot or a bow.Sew through the top and bottom at the center to secure the ribbon. Sewing for Beginners 155

Creative projects

D rawstring flat pack You can never have enough bags,especially w hen you can sew them specifically for the size desired and the use intended What you need  Know ledge ofstraight seam s,inserting a zipp er,creating a casing,and sew ing corners  18 x 45-inch (45.75 x 114.25 cm )piece cotton fabric for the m ain body  18 x 22-inch (45.75 x 56 cm )piece cotton fabric for the pocket lining  Sm allpiece cotton fabric for the contrast b and  Felt for the appliqué.(This design is m ade form tw o felt circles cut at 2.5-inch [6.25 cm ]and 3-inch [7.5 cm ]diam eters.)  14-inchlong (35.5 cm )zipper  5 yards (457.25 cm )5⁄8-inch-w ide (1.5 cm )ribbon  Straight and safety p ins  M easuring tape and ruler  Iron  Sew ing m achine

T

his funky twist on the plain drawstring bag can be made from a variety of fabrics— some good choices would be heavy cotton,corduroy,or lightweight denim.You can add varying design

elements like Idid, such as a lined zipper pocket, app liqué, and a contrasting band.

Bag pieces to measure and cut Body back:Cut 1 p iece 15 x 17 inches (38 x 43 cm) Top body front:Cut 1 p iece 4 3⁄4 x 15 inches (12 x 38 cm) Lower body front:Cut 1 p iece 12 1⁄4 x 15 inches (31 x 38 cm)

Zipper flaps:Cut 2 pieces 1 x 1 3⁄4 inches (2.5 x 4.5 cm) D rawstring casings:Cut 2 pieces 4 x 15 inches (10 x 38 cm)

Pocket lining:Cut 1 piece 15 x 17 inches (38 x 43 cm) Ribbon:Cut 2 pieces 72 inches (183 cm)long for straps; cut 2 pieces 3 1⁄4 inches (7 cm)long for loops;cut 1 p iece 15 inches (38 cm)long for bagfront * All seams are sewn at a 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm)seam allowance.


15 inches (38 cm )

Th e bag’s lowerfrontpiece

01 Position ribbon on low er front Place the bag’s lower front right side up on your table.Position the p iece of ribbon along the bottom of the fabric 3 inches (7.5 cm)up from the edge, and topstitch in place.

03 Place

cotton layer to appliqué

Cut at a 2-inch (5 cm)diameter circle from the cotton fabric.Pin it as the top layer of the appliqué, centered on top of the felt layers.Stitch around the edge of the circle.

02 Place

felt circles

Cut out two felt circles and apply them to the front of the bag layered on top of each other.

04 M

easure and m ark zipper

easure 12 inches (30.5 cm)centered on the zipper.M ark the measurement with pins at each end. M


Creative projects

05 Sew zipper flat With the right side facing the top of the zipp er,sew the zipp er flap at the pin-marked spot.Trim off the end of the zipp er.

06 Fold fabric and stitch again Fold the fabric back, and topstitch to secure.

The top edge ofthe bag’s lowerfront

07 Repeat Repeat for the other end of the zipper.The zipper will need to be

unzipped slightly so the fabric will fit under the sewing machine foot.

09 Place top front Turn the lower front so it is lying face up.Place the top front piece face down to line up with the other long side of the zipper.Pin and stitch in place.Zigzag stitch the edges to finish the seams. 158


08 Place zipper With the right sides together, place the zipp er face down on the lower front piece.Line up the long side of the zipper with the top edge of the fabric.Pin and stitch with a zipper foot.

10 Top stitch zipper Fold the fabric open, and topstitch along both sides of the zipper.You still need to have the zipper foot attached to do this.

The loops should b e facing in

11 Place front

on lining

Place the entire front piece of the bag on top of the lining piece.The lining should be right side up, with the wrong side of the bag touching the lining.Baste stitch around the edges.

12 M

ake loops

Take the two p ieces of ribbon cut for the loop s and fold them in half. Sew one at each end of the ribbon trim on the front of the bag.

The rightsides are facing out

The raw edge ofthe seam is enclosed,creating a French seam for a clean finish

13 Place front onto

back

Place the bag front on top of the bag backwith the wrong sides together.Stitch with a 1⁄4-inch (.6 cm)seam allowance around the sides and bottom edge of the bag, pivoting at the corners.

14 Turn inside out and sew

edges

Turn the bag inside out.Pin the edges of the bag on the sides and bottom.Straight stitch around the sides and bottom of the bag, this time at a 3⁄8-inch (.75 cm)seam allowance. Sewing for Beginners 159

Creative projects The yellow fabric shows the finished inside seam ;the seam where blue m eets blue is the outside ofthe bag

15 Set body aside

16 H em the casing

N ow that the main body of the bag is finished, set it aside to work on the drawstring casing.

Hem the short ends of the casing.Turn under 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm), then 3 ⁄8 inch (.75 cm).Repeat for both ends of both p ieces.

18 Line up casing and pin Fold the casing in half lengthwise with the right side out, and press.

Line up the raw edges of the casing strips with the top edge of the bag. The folded ends should meet at the side seams but not overlap.N ext just pin and stitch.

19 Trim and secure

20 Stitch the top edge

Trim the seam, and finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch to keep the fabric from fraying.Press the seam toward the bottom of the bag.

Topstitch along the top edge of the bag,being sure the seam p oints down so the casing lies flat.

17 Fold casing

160


21 Feed the straps through Using a safety pin in the end of the ribbon, feed one of the straps through the front casing and into the back casing so both ends are loose on the same side.

22 Connect to loop Feed the two ends through the same loop.Wrap around, fold the ends under, pin, and stitch to secure.

23 Repeat Repeat with the other ribbon strap, but feed the casing in through the

other direction so the loose ends are on the opposite side.Now you can enjoy your finished bag! Sewing for Beginners 161

Creative projects

Picnic blanket Perfect for a picnic by the lake or a day down at the beach, this patchwork picnic blanket is a great project to test out your sewing skills

T

he 4 x 4 square design can be made from a variety of prints or colors.You can create a pattern or make it totally random. U se quilting cotton forthe top layer(fatquarters work great!)and a durable fabric like denim ora heavyweight twillforthe bottom layer.The blankethasan attached builtinrollcoverwith a littlehandle to m ake itsupereasy to lug around the park.


What you need  Knowledge of straight seams, buttonholes, and sewing corners  Squares: 16 14 x 14-inch (35.5 x 35.5 cm)cotton fabric  Backing: 54 1⁄2 x 54 1⁄2-inch

(138.5 x 138.5 cm)denim fabric (it’s best to buy a fab ric that’s 60inches [152.5 cm]wide on the bolt)  Roll cover: 2 rectangles 18× 7-inch (45.75×17.75 cm) cotton fabric  Handles: 21⁄2×7-inch (6.25× 17.75 cm)cotton fabric  Ruler  M easuring tape  Scissors  Iron  Three buttons  Ball of yarn

You can putthe squ ares in anyorder

01 M easure and cut

02 A ssem ble

M easure and cutoutallthe pieces.A llseam sw illb e sew n at1⁄2-inch 25 cm )seam allow ance. (1.

Lay outthe 16 squares to determ ine yourdesign.

03 Start w ith the top row

04 Press seam allow ances

Startby sew ing the top row ofblocks together.Sew the centerseam

Pressthe seam allow ances in the top row allin one direction.Pressthe

w ith the fab ri csrightside togetherand con tinue untilyou have four

nextrow ’ s seam allow ance in the opposi te directi on to m ake iteasierto

blocksconnected into one row .

m atch the corners.

06 Line up,pin and stitch 05 M ake four row s offour Repeatuntilyou have fourrow seach w ith fourblockssew n together.

To connectthe row s, w ith the rightsides together, line up the raw edges ofthe firstand second row , being sure to line up the seam sforeach block.Pin, and straightstitch. Sew ing forBeginners 163

Creative projects

Leave this space open forturning the b lanket rightside out

08 Layer onto backing fabric 07 Join allrow s and press seam s Repeatuntilallthe row sare joined .Pressthe seam sopen.

W ith the rightsides together, place the top layeron top ofthe backing fab ri c.Pin arou nd the entire outside edge, leaving the sidesofone block open to turn rightside ou t.

10 Sew a handle

09 Sew the edges Sew arou nd the pinn ed edge.Backstitch atthe op ening to reinforce the threads.Clip the seam allow ances atthe corners, and setaside.

To sew the han dle, fold the han dle fabric in halflen gthw ise, and sew a straightstitch dow n the long raw edge side.Turn itrightside out, and pressflat.

Place the h and le 31⁄2 inches (9 cm )from the end ofthe coverpiece, rightside facing up

11 Create cover Topstitch the edges ofthe handle.Pin itin betw een the tw o cover pieces, rightsidestogether.Pin and sew arou nd three edges, leaving the end to the leftopen.


X stitch for reinforcem ent

12 Reinforce handle Sew an X to reinforce the ends ofthe han dle.Topstitch arou nd the edge ofthe coverpiece.

Th is is the left-open co rner.Be sure to turn the edges inside to m atch the existing seam allowance

14 Place cover inside blanket Place the open end ofthe coverin betw een the tw o layersofthe

13 Create buttonholes

blanket, centeri ng iton the block.The side w ith the han dle should be facing dow n, the sam e direction asthe back layer.Pin and sew the

Sew three button ho les1 inch (2.5 cm )from the finished edge.

op ening closed .

15 Secure corners

16 Fold up and roll

Thread a large need le w ith yarn, and pullthrough both layersofthe blanketatthe pointsw here the cornersm eet.Tie in knotsto secure.

Fo ld the blanketin half, and fold itin halfagain so itisthe w idth ofone square.Rollup and w rap the coverarou nd the blanket.

17 Place b uttons M ark the position ofthe three button sto line up w ith the existi ng buttonholes.Sew the button sin place, button up the cover, and yo u’ re read y to go!. Sew ing forBeginners 165

Creative projects

Make-up brush holder O ne of the best things about sewing is that you can make any product according to your needs.Have loads of make-up brushes of various sizes and shapes? M ake your own holder! What you need  Knowledge of straight seams, pivoting, sewing corners, and binding  O ne 18× 45-inch (45.75 × 114.25 cm)p iece or three 18× 22-inch (45.75 × 56 cm)pieces heavy fabric, such as denim.(Use three pieces if you want a contrasting exterior and interior.)  10× 12-inch (25× 30.5 cm)p iece fusible nonwoven interfacing  48 -inch-long (122 cm)extra-wide bias tape  Scissors  Sewing machine  M easuring tape  Straight pins  M asking tape  Iron  Stiff, bristled brush (op tional)

K

eep your make-up brushes clean and organized with this stylish roll-up fabric holder.The design accom m od ates six to eigh tbrushes and keeps them secure in theirow n tiny p ockets.The fabric folds over

to protectthem and rolls up foreasy,grab-and-go style!

H older pieces to measure and cut  Main body:2 p ieces,each 13×19 inches (33× 48.25 cm )  Pocket:1 p iece,13× 11 inches (3× 28 cm )  Interfacing:1 piece,10×12 inch es (25.5× 30.5 cm )

Note:Since you’re using a heavier fab ric (Iused denim )as the backing layer,you don’tneed to use interfacing here.

166


01 Apply interfacing App ly the interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket.Center it so the seam allowances aren’t covered.

02 Pin the pocket With the wrong sides together, fold the pocket in half, matching up the 13-inch-long (33 cm)sides.Pin the pocket to the bottom edge of the top layer of the body.

The pocketis sandwiched in b etween the two layers

Sew ata 1⁄2-inch (1.25 cm )seam allowance around the edges

03 Baste stitch the pocket

04 Com

bine backing and top layer

Using a 1⁄4-inch (.6 cm)seam allowance, baste stitch the sides and bottom edge of the pocket.Pivot at the corners.

Place the backing layer on top of the top layer, right sides together.Pin and stitch around the sides and bottom edge, leaving the top end open.

Brush pocketwidths: 1 at21⁄2 inch es (6.25 cm ) 2 at2 inches (5 cm ) 2 at11⁄2 inches (4 cm ) 2 at1 inch (2.5 cm )

05 Trim

the seam s

Trim the seam allowances at the bottom two corners.The larger stitching line that’s visible is from p reviously basting the p ocket;you should trim through that stitching line.

06 Sew

the pocket lines

Use masking tape as aguide to sew a straight line.M easure 2 1⁄2 inches (6.25 cm)from the left side to sew the first pocket line.The stitching line is sewn the entire length of the fabric. Sewing for Beginners 167

Creative projects This shows how to create an arrowhead reinforcem ent atthe top of each p ocket

07 Stitch to the top ofthe pocket

Pivotthe foot,and sew tw o stitches.Pivot,and sew diagon ally b ack to

Straightstitch along the edge o fthe tap e.Stop w hen you g et to the top

the line.Pivot,and sew diagonally up to the top ed ge ofthe p ocket.

edge o fthe pocket.Peelthe tape u p ou tofthe w ay.

Pivotback to the cen ter l ine.

09 Check arrow head reinforcem ent

10 Continue creating p ocket lines Conti nue to sew the row s ofstitching to create the pockets,spacing the

The p ivoted shap e sho uld look like this w hen finished .The arrow head

row s atthe specified m easurem ents.Each row ofstitching should b e

reinforcem entis op tional,so feelfree to skip ifyou like.

sew n allthe w ay atthe o pen en d.

11 Cut open the bias tape

168

08 Create diagonallines

Cutthe b ias tape to the length ofthe open end ofthe roll12 1⁄4 inches

12 Fold over bias tape

(31 cm ).O pen itup,place itright sides dow n,pin,and then sew alon g

Turn the rollover,and fold the bias tap e over to the b ackside.W ith the

the fold line.

ed ge folded under,pin itso it’ s covering the raw ed ge o fthe fabric.


13 Stitch both edges

14 M

ake a tie

Topstitch along both long, horizontal edges of the biastape, leaving the short ends unsewn.

To make the tie, cut a 36-inch (91.5 cm)piece of the bias tape.Fold it in half, and topstitch the edges the entire length of the tie, leaving the short ends unsewn.

15 Pin and stitch tie

16 Fray tie

easure 5 inches (12.75 cm)up from the end with the binding, and pin the center of the tie to the first stitching line.Stitch in p lace, lining the new stitching up with the existing stitching.

Take a stiff, bristled brush and brush over the ends of the bias tape to fray the ends.If you don’t have a brush, pull at the threads to create a similar look.

M

18 Fold,rolland tie 17 Insert brushes Slide the make-up

brushes into the p ockets.

Fold the fabric over to cover the p ocket with the brushes.Roll it up with the bias-trimmed end on the outside.Wrap the tie around it twice, and tie.You’re all set! Sewing for Beginners 169

Creative projects

Appliqué pillow Creating a pillow is pretty simple.You sew two squares together, leaving a small space open for stuffing, and sew it closed with a few hand stitches to finish it up!You can make it in any size or shape— just make sure to cut both shapes the same size.You can embellish the pillow with an appliqué and add piping What you need  Knowledge of straight seams, pivoting, sewing corners, appliqué, and attaching trim  Two 18 x 18-inch (45.75 x 45.75 cm)p ieces fabric (Q uilting cotton is used here, but you can use any typ e of fabric that doesn’t have stretch.)  Scraps of fabric for appliqué  O ne package or 90 inches (229 cm)piping  24-oz.package batting/polyfill  6 x 11-inch (15 x 28 cm)p iece fusible web, such as HeatandBond  M easuring tape  Scissors  Sewing machine  Fabric marking tool  Zipp er foot  Hand-sewing needle  Iron


01 Create tem

plate

02 Stack your hearts

Use a computer or hand draw the LO VE template.Trace these letters onto your fabric,and prepare the appliqué with fusible web.Cut out the letters and shapes.

To create the double appliqué heart, stack the first layer on a piece of felt.Bond with fusible web and trim around the edges to create a framed look.

03 A pply fusible w

04 Position letters

eb

Cut out a small piece of the fusible web, and apply it to the back of your felt heart.

M

arkthe center of the p illow front with a pin or fabric marking tool. Position your letters until you are happy with the p lacement.

05 Peel,bond and iron

06 Satin stitch the V

Peel off the paper backing, and bond the appliqué to the fabric with an iron.Allow it to cool completely before moving on to the next step.

Stitch around the V using a satin stitch.The stitch should cover the raw

edge of the appliqué fabric. Sewing for Beginners 171

Creative projects

Th e heartisn’tstitched – justfused

07 Set your satin stitch To select the satin stitch, set your machine to a zigzag and set the stitch length at zero.The stitching lines will be right next to each other.

09 A pply piping and join App ly the piping to the front side of the p illow.To join the ends, use a seam ripp er to remove a few stitches at the end of the piping strip.

11 Stitch the edges Stitch along the edge to secure, and backstitch to reinforce.

172


08 Stitch the L and E Stitch using the raw edge appliqué technique for the L and E.

10 Cut back the cord O pen up the fabric to reveal the cord, and cut the cord back 1⁄2 inch (1.25 cm).Fold the raw end under, and overlap it with the other end of the piping.

12 Layer front and b ack With the right sides together, place the back of the pillow on top of the pillow front.Line up the edges, and stitch with a zipper foot.

13 Leave an opening Sew arou nd the edge ofthe pillow ,butleave a 4-inch (10 cm )opening

14 Trim

on the side.

Trim the seam s and clip the co rner.Turn the p illow rightsi de o ut.

and turn inside out

15 Stuff

16 H and-sew

Stuffthe p illow by pushing in as m uch batting as you can throu gh the

U se a h and -sew ing needle to sew the op ening closed.Set you rp illow

sm allopening .

ou t,and enjoy!

shut


Reference

Sew ing glossary Pieces cut from fabric,felt,or other m aterials that are then sew n onto a foundation fabric. ap pliqué

The underside or lining in quilting.

backing backstitch

O ne or tw o firm stitches at the very beginning or end ofa row

ofstitching.

An allow ance added to a pattern for m ovem ent in a garm ent.

ease

A row ofstitching along the very edge ofa garm ent or fold in a project.Edge stitching is usually done about 1⁄8 inch (.3 cm )or less from the edge. ed ge stitching

Thin,polyester-w rapp ed thread used to m ake stretchable

elastic thread

A sew ing m achine needle w ith a rounded tip that stitches knit fabrics w ithout splitting the fabric. ballp oint needle

shirred fabric. em broide ry ho op

bar tacks

A series ofstitches used for reinforcing areas ofstress,such as pocket openings or the bottom ofa fly opening.

eye let

baste

A large running stitch done to tem porarily hold pieces together during both fitting and construction.

facing

Insulating m aterialbetw een the top and bottom layers ofthe fabric com m only used in quilts or padded garm ents.

fasten er

batting

A pair ofrings that keep fabric taut for em broidering.

A sm allhole m ade in fabric.An eyelet is frequently finished w ith a buttonhole stitch or grom m et. Fabric pieces either cut separately or folded back over them selves that enclose the raw edge ofa garm ent. Any m ethod ofclosing a garm ent,such as a snap,hook and eye, zipper,or button.

bias

The diagonaldirection betw een the straight grain and the crossgrain. True bias is at a 45-degree angle.

A 1⁄2 yard (45.75 cm )offabric cut in halfto m ake tw o quarters ofa yard.Fat quarters usually m easure 18x22 inches (45.75× 56 cm ),w hile a standard 1⁄4-yard (23cm )cut on a b olt is 9x44 inches (23×111.75 cm ).

Tape m ade from strips offabric cut on the bias.Bias tape is used for b inding or facing seam s.

feed d og s

bias tap e

Finishing the raw edge ofa garm ent by attaching a narrow strip offabric that folds over to enclose the edge. binding

A round spoolholding the thread that form s the underside ofa m achine stitch. bo bb in

bolt

A rolloffabric.

fat quarter

M etalteethlike ridges that em erge from rectangular holes in the throat plate ofa sew ing m achine.Feed dogs gently grip the underneath ofthe fabric,helping it to m ove aw ay as the stitches are sew n.

Polyester fib er used for filling or insulation in pillow s,com forters,and outerw ear. fiberfill

finger press

U sing your finger to m ark and press a fold.

Turning under a raw edge and stitching it in place.

finish

Plastic strips slipp ed into sheaths that are sew n into a garm ent to give support and body contouring.

fitting lines

A flat open tube offabric through w hich tape,elastic,or trim can be threaded.

flat-felled seam

bo ning

casing

To cut into a seam allow ance to m ark a placem ent or allow a curve to spread and lie sm ooth. clip

crossw ise g rain D -ring

Fabric threads running from selvage to selvage.

A D -shaped ring used as a fastener in belts and straps.

A triangle-shaped tuck stitched into a garm ent that allow s a fabric to shape to the contours ofthe body. dart

drap e

The w ay fabric falls on the body.

draw string

A cord or ribbon inserted through a hem or casing.

A torso-shaped fram e used to fit garm ents during the construction process. dress form


Lines m arked on a sew ing pattern that indicate the finished lines after sew ing. Sew

ing the w rong sides ofthe fabric together and trim m ing one seam allow ance close before turning the other seam under and stitching it over the first. The w heelon a m achine that raises and low ers the sew ing m achine needle. fly w heel

fray

The loose threads on the edge ofa fabric.

A section on m ost sew ing m achines that can be rem oved from the base,allow ing easier sew ing ofvarious types ofp rojects— for exam ple, w hen sew ing around cuffs or hem s oftrousers. free arm

A seam stitched first w ith the w rong sides together,and then turned in and stitched w ith the right sides together so the raw edges are enclosed in the seam .This seam is often found in high-quality garm ents and is often used w ith sheer fabrics. French seam

A fancy button–like closure for a garm ent.Frogs are usually ornam entaland are m ade from silk ribb ons or cords. frog closure

fuse

To join tw o surfaces together w ith fusible tape.

fusible tape o r w ebbing

A heat-activated adhesive used to bond fabric.

To draw up a fabric b y pulling row s ofbasting stitches in order to m ake it fit into a sm aller,predeterm ined area. gather

An extra piece offabric in the shape ofa circular pie segm ent that’s sew n into a seam to give added flare and volum e.G odets are usually seen in dresses and skirts. godet

1.Trim m ing one layer at a narrow er w idth to reduce bulk in the seam allow ance.2.Altering a p attern to m ake it fit a sm aller or larger size. grade

Indicates the direction ofthe yarn in fabric.The stronger lengthw ise grain runs vertically parallelto the selvage,w hile the crossw ise grain runs horizontally and has m ore give. grain

A m etalring inserted into a hole in the fabric that helps reinforce openings used for lacings. grom m et

grosgrain ribbon

A heavy corded ribb on characterized by its horizontal

ribbed appearance. The w heelthat raises and low ers the sew ing m achine needle. See also fly w heel. handw heel

To finish the raw edge ofa fabric by neatly folding it over and stitching it dow n. hem

hem line

O n a pattern,the line that show s w here the finished hem w illbe.

A binding that encloses the raw edges ofthe seam s separately or individually inside strips ofb ias tap e. H ong Kon g b inding

A textile used on the w rong side ofthe fabric to give support and help shap e or stabilize w here desired.Interfacing can then be sew n in or fusib le. interfacing

A layer offabric betw een the face and lining ofa garm ent to give added w arm th or body. interlining

A fabric in w hich the design is intricately w oven into the w eave using a specialloom . jacq uard

A strong needle for heavyw eight fabrics,w ith a larger eye to accom m odate thicker thread. jean s ne ed le

A fabric that consists ofinterlocking loop s called stitches that can be m ade by hand or on a sew ing m achine. kn it

A layer offabric sew n to the inside ofclothing that covers construction details and m akes garm ents easier to put on and take off. Lining is usually m ade from a slick fabric. lining

m onofilam en t thread

A clear,polyester or nylon thread used for

hem m ing and quilting. A cotton fabric m ade in various w eights that’s often used to m ake sew ing patterns. m uslin

Fabric that has a raised pile or texture to it,such as velvet or corduroy. N ap runs in one direction and requires allpattern pieces to b e cut in the sam e direction. nap

Also called the throat plate,a m etalor plastic plate on the base ofthe m achine under the presser foot that has seam allow ance m arkings to guide the fabric. needle plate

A fabriclike m aterialm ade from long fibers bonded together by a chem icalor heat process— for exam ple,felt. non w oven

o or m ore fabric p ieces that w illbe joined together.Notches are sym bolized in various sizes,from single to quadruple. no tches

Marking on a pattern used to line up tw

A collective term for a variety ofsew ing accessories.N otions can refer to buttons,snaps,zipp ers,thread,pins,or seam ripp ers. notions

Printed fabrics that have a directionalpattern requiring specialattention to be paid w hen cutting.Allpieces m ust be facing in the sam e direction. one-w ay de sign

A quick m ethod for finishing seam s and edges in w hich you use a specialm achine called a serger.Edges are trim m ed and covered w ith thread in one operation. overlock (serge)

ing strips or b locks offabric together to m ake one larger piece.Patchw ork is often used in quilting. patchw ork

Sew

Sm allw eights used in p lace ofpins to hold the pattern to the fabric w hen cutting. pattern w e ights

A straight stitch sew n at the largest stitch length availab le.Machine basting is used to tem porarily hold pieces together or create gathers.

pile

The diagonaljoin oftw o edges at a corner used to finish the corners ofgarm ents or quilts.

fabric w ith a zigzag cut.Cuts m ade by these shears are done for decoration or to prevent raveling.

m ach ine basting

m iter

The raised surface or nap ofa fabric m ade by upright loop s.Pile can be cut (as in velvet and corduroy)or left as loops (as in terry cloth). pinking shears

Shears w ith notched b lades used to finish the edges of

Sew ing

for Beginners

175

Reference A cord used inside a fold offabric to create piping trim .

piping co rd

W hen sew ing,to turn the corner by keeping the needle in the dow n position w ithout cutting the thread. pivot

A finished op ening found on shirt fronts,sleeve cuffs,skirt openings,dresses,and pants that’s m ade to accom m odate buttons,snaps, and other fasteners. placket

U sing an iron in an up-and-dow n m otion on one section ofa fabric at a tim e w ithout sliding the iron over it. press

The part ofthe sew ing m achine that rests on the fabric, pressing it dow n onto the feed dogs. presser foot

A thin cotton fabric used in betw een the iron’s surface and the fabric for protection. pressing cloth

A tightly stuffed,ham -shaped pillow used to press curved seam s and darts. pressing ham

A typ e ofsleeve w ith a seam that runs diagonally dow n from the neckline to the underarm .A raglan is m ade separately and then attached to a garm ent. rag lan

raw edge

The unfinished,undecorated edge ofa fabric.

A fabric trim knitted to create ribs for stretchability.Ribbing is com m only used for cuffs and w aistbands. ribbing

rightside

The finished side ofa fabric.

The distance betw een the crotch and w aistband in trousers,shorts, and underw ear. rise

rotary cu tter

A toolw ith a sharp,circular blade used to cut fabric.

rotary cutting ruler

A m etalor hard plastic ruler used to guide a rotary

cutter to cut fabric. A strip offabric that’s cut and subsequently gathered in such a w ay as to create fullness. ruffle

A basic stitch in hand sew ing and em broidery that’s created by passing a needle in and out ofa fabric. running stitch

seam

The point at w hich tw o layers offabric are sew n together.

seam allow ance

The space or am ount offabric betw een the seam and

the cut edge. selvage serge

The tightly w oven edge ofa fabric along the lengthw ise grain. To finish the edges ofa fabric w ith a serger.

A sleeve m ade separately and then joined to the body of a garm ent by a seam that starts at the underarm and continues allthe w ay around the arm hole. set-in sleeve

W hen a fabric or garm ent becom es sm aller than its original size,usually through laundering. shrinkag e

A hand stitch sew n from right to left used to join tw o folded edges together w ith very sm all,hardly visible stitches. slipstitch

An em broidery technique using decorative stitching to hold row s ofsm allpleats.Sm ocking is usually sew n in a b odice. sm ocking

M aterials used in sew ing to hold fabric flat so it’s m ore easily stitched.Interfacing can act as a stab ilizer. stabilizer

A row ofstitches around a curve used to keep the curve from becom ing distorted w hile sew ing. staystitching

Stitching right into the seam w here the tw o fabrics m eet,so the stitching is barely visible. stitch in the ditch

ilar to baste,large stitches used to tem porarily hold the fabric in place and then rem oved after the finalstitching is com plete. tack

Sim

tailor’s ch alk

See pressing ham

tailor’s ham

Parallelrow s ofgathered stitches.Shirring can also be done w ith elastic thread. shirring


.

The pressure placed on both the upper and low er threads w hile m achine sew ing. ten sion

Finished stitching on the right side ofa fabric.

top stitch tuck

A narrow pleat sew n dow n the length ofthe fold,often done in row s. Turning a project or piece ofclothing to the right side.

turn ou t tw illtape

A packaged cotton fabric tape m ade from a diagonalw eave.

A layer offabric placed behind each fabric piece to stabilize and hide construction details. underlining

A stitch used to sew the facing to the seam allow ance,but not the finished layer ofthe garm ent.U nderstitching keeps the facing from rolling out to the right side. understitch

Velcro

The brand nam e for a com m on hook-and-loop fastener.

The op ening on the low er part ofthe back ofa jacket or skirt that has a facing. vent

A sew ing m achine foot used to guide severallayers offabric under the foot together as one unit.It prevents the fabrics from being p ulled apart or shifting. w alking foo t

w arp w eft

The lengthw ise grain ofa fabric. The crossw ise grain ofa fabric.

A narrow strip offabric used to reinforce an edge or op ening.It’s often found in a w elt p ocket. w elt

w oven

A type offabric m ade by w eaving yarn on a loom .

w ron g side

Created by using a prem ade attached shank button or thread shank.The shank raises the b utton ab ove the garm ent,allow ing the buttonhole space under the b utton to lie flat in order to avoid distortion of the garm ent. shank (button )

A sm allpiece ofhard chalk used to m ark on fabric.

The inside or backside ofa piece offabric;the unfinished side.

U sually found at the neck or w aist ofa garm ent,the fitted piece that attaches to the hanging portion ofthe garm ent. yoke

zigzag

A m achine stitch sew n from side to side.

A sew ing m achine presser foot used to sew a zipper or other trim s w ith raised edges. zipp er foot


C raftprojects for all seasons

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Sewing for Beginners 3rd Edition 2016 UK

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