NO. 58
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.50
o
Wrodsmith Number 58
August, 1988
Edit", Donald B. Peschke Oe$Igij Direct'" Ted Kralicek ManagingEdrtOf Douglas L. Hicks AssistantEd,I'" Douglas M. Uclster Project Designer Ken Munkel TechnlcalIllustrators David Kreyling Cary Christensen RodStoakes Chris Glowacki CustomerSeMce Sandy Baum, Mgr. Jackie Stroud PatKoob Lisa Thompson Computer 0pera1)Ons Ken Miner Administrative AssIS. Cheryl Scott JeanC.rey BuildingMaintenance Archie Krause
Sawdust AB011l' THIS ISSUE, How high should a QheSIof drawers be? That's a good question. And one that's actually very difficult to answer. When you set out to build a chest of drawers, there are two major steps: building the chest itself, and then building the drawers to fit, So it would seem easy to say, "WeU, I'd like to build a chest 30" bigh with four drawers." But the design of any woodworking projeet is a combination of art and science. The art is the aesthetics of the design. The science is figuring out how to make all the pieces fit togethel', Okay, Don, it sounds like you're about
to get into a treatise on design. Let's skip all that and gel down to the lutty gritloy, In a nutshell, I'm always amazed at the amount of basic planning required to build what I think should be a simple chest of drawers. It seems like a never-endingseries of details and decisions, About a year ago, we were building the seven-drawer lingelie dresser fOl' issue No. 53. 'Ve wanted to use dovetails to join the drawers, but since there were so mallY, The Woodsmith Store we decided to use a router and dovetail jig rather than cut them all by hand, 0peratOoos Steve Krohmer Just about that time we received a tip MarketingManager Steve Dozier (rom William Schultz, a 'subscriber from Albuquerque, New Mexico. He had built II SioreManagers: dovetad jig aOO made his own template SI. Louis. MD Jon Behrle using a box joint jig. 8erkei
2
issue. What it gets down to is that the height of the ease is actually determined by the drawers, which are multiples of "/.". But it would be too easy if that were the only consideration, In addition to the dovetail layout, you have to allow for the clearance above each drawer. MOl'" planning ahead. Also, since we wanted to use plastic glide strips (to help the drawer slide in aOO out easily), we had to allow for the thickness of the strips in determining the height of each opening. There's one last detail: the thickness of the stock. We list the thickness of 414 stock as "y",". (4/4 is the designation for lum-
bel' that's 1" t.hick when it's rough
8a\V'l1.
Then it's planed down to final thicknes.s, The National Hardwood Lumber ~ia.tion sets the standard of "v.•• thick for most hardwoods.) aut in reality, the stock you use may be a different acti(ql thickness - usually it's somewhere between y.," and "YI,r, You have to take this into account when adding in the thickness of the rails that are between each drawer, So, detennining the heighL of a dresser is not easy. The dimensions we show in the plans may seem odd. POI' example, the basic case for the dresser is 25',),,,," high, an odd dimension. But it's actually just the sum of all these details. SOUltCflBOOI\. IT you've been subseribing fOI' awhile, you'll remember the WoodItmitlr $OI,rceboi>k. We began publishing it in 19&1, (but it didn't come out last year). The basic idea behind the Sm,roobook is to provide information for woodworkers. Rather than add advertising to Woodsmith, we decided to publish the Sourcebrxik. It's a listing of companies who have mail-order catalogs, or offer information 0)1 tools and supplies for woodwersers. Thi~ year's So"rcelXJQk, will be mailed free to all active WoodS1nilh subscribers (lIS of September (988). Pel like to invito you 1.0 use the Solt1'cebook if you're looking for catalogs 01' other information, It's an easy way to order a lot of information, PltOTEcrrvS COVER. For quite a few years we've added a protective COvel' to IVood.~mit1•. U was a convenient way to show the covers of back issues. But we gpt to the point thai there were more back issues available than there was room to show them, With this issue, we've added an expanded version of the protective cover, and we were able to add an expanded order form and some information about the kits shown in the past issues. NEXT MAILING, The next issue of Woodsmith (No, 59) will be mailed tlwing the week of October 31, 1988, WOODSMI1'H
-
T_i(!s & Technigu_e_s __
__
TRIMMING SOLID EDGING
TABLE SAW DUST BAG
•
In order to t'U~down on sawdust and chips ~Iowing all over my shop, 1 added a dust bag tQ the bottom of my table saw. I startro by cutting a piece of 'l(," plywood to bolt W the bottom of my table saw cabinet.
handle on the wing to keep the router from gouging the work. I've found the best technique to prevent chipout is to move the route r laterally and take small bites.
I've noticed thal WoodsmiUt has printed a variety of techniques for trimming solid wood edging flush afUlr it's plU"J">OSely apCharles E. Brasuine» plied a little proud of the adjacent surface, Petaluma, C(IlijWllia This is otten the case ,,~th table tops, countertops, and plywood panels. MORE ON PILOT BITS I use my router with an auxiliary base to trim off the extra edging. To do this, I!Jditor'. Note: h: Woodsmith No. 56 1
,ticle about pilot bit sets. fi"Onl the "outer and mount a two-layer Aft6)' it apJXXtI"
...
HAHDtfS
f.of---+-lt"~---\j "SCUWDIGGER"
Then, 1 visited a local building center and found a funnel-shaped furnace air duct reducer made from sheet metal. There are a variety of shapes and sizes, but get one with a flat shoulder that runs around the bottom. Now cat an opening in the plywood panel with a sabre saw to secept the sheet metal reducer. By cutting carefully, you "",1 get a snug enough fit SO that the reducer can just be pushed inlo the opening and held without fasteners. (If neOO$$3'")',it can be strewed in place with a couple of sheet metal screws from the inside.) ~ly wife sewed up a cloth bag with a drawstring \0 catch the chips, but a plastic garbage bag and • large rubber band or "bungee cord" would also work.
o
GARBAGE SAG
HElD TO
Rrot,ICER WITH LARGE RUfl8.ER ~NO Oft BUNGeE COftD
an
ALE RAT
ON 6rt FOIt SET BlOCK ftANDLE
SCREW TO SlT ON
'I'he top layer follows the ,.. dius of the router on one end, but has a wing that l)'Y filing a nat spot On the drill bit for sticks out about 6" beyond the router on the set screw to sit on. ITthe bit C8Jl't turn, the other end. After cutting this piece to it isn't as likely to slide out of position, size, T used the plastic I"(lUW' base as a Keum Pommier template to mark the location of the bit hole and SCrew holes. Then I glued a block Sfm"" Falls, Smtih D~kQta as a handle to the top of the wing. Next. cut a sub base to shape with " 9()0 I found some of the same problems with point and glue it to the top layer so that i~ ~he "Scru-Drill" bits that, 1'l00ds",ilJ! menstops short of the bit. By making tbe sub tioned in the article - the weakness and base come to a 9()0 point, you can easily instability of the thin pilot bit section. work into Ute COt11er or a workpiece that, Rather than trl~l1g to replace the broken has edb"ng on two sides. 0" bent original pilot bits, I substituted 1'0 use the jig, screw it to the bottom of twist drill bits. t.he router and mount a stl'aight bit, Then The #6 "Seru-Drill" uses a r,.o" t'vist adjust the depth SOthe bit just touches the bit. The #8 bit accepts a '~.,Ntwist bit. work surface. And the #10 bit takes a 0/,." twist bit. Using a twist bit means you have to stop occasionally and unclog the flutes sin ee the exit- are blocked by the shank section Oil Oneside. But it's a small disadvantage compru-e<1 to tbe ease of one-step drilling, f.,a"'Y Albrecht Lenem, Kansas Sf NO IN YOUR
The bag
If you'd like to share a woodworking tip with other readers of Woodsm;rh. send your Idea 10: Woodsmlth. TIp" & Techniques. 2200 Grand
doesn't catch aU of the dust
(the,.,,"s still some that goes out the back \"<'1" .. h;.t used to end up On my floor. Mbriey H. Grt/.Ju"" Belle"il/e, Ontario
\VOOD MITH
IDEAS
Now, place the router so the wing is on the work surface and the bit hangs slightly over the outside of the edgin~ strip. Move tbe bit slowly into the strip keeping one hand securely pressed down on the block
Ave.. Oes Moines, Iowa 50312.
We pay a minimum a! 510 lor UpS,IIIl
for pubflcation,. Please give 8 complete sxplanatIon yO\lr idea. If a sketeh i. needed, send il
0'
along: we'll draw a new one.
3
H_o~eChest
____
AN HEIRLOOM FOR THE FUTURE Probably the most interesting p
'
the corners are beveled and shoulders are added to both ends of the bevel. It sounds complicated, but it's actually easy, And it produces a unique joint that adds a lot to the overall appearance of the chest,
..
",
."~'''~~'' ''.
".
,".,"
END PANELS
[ began work on the chest by edge-gluing' enough ·1I4 stock ('0/,. actual thickness) to make two end panels (A) that were roughly 18" wide and 21" long. After the glue dries, plane 0)' belt san(l the panels nat. Then cut them to finished size: 17' wide by 20" long, see Fig. 1. Shop Note: rt:. important that these panels be planed 0)' sanded to a ''''iform thickness across their width. If they're not perfectly uniform, the shoulder cut on the outside of the joint will look wavy. CUT DADOES. After the e))d panels are to si7.e, you can hegin work on the COl1Ier joint.. Start by cutting ~"·wide dadoes on the inside fate of the end panels. (Although this joint is traditionally called a tongue and gl'WL'e, it's actually a tongue and dado since the groove runs across the grain.) To cut the dadoes, set the rip fence so the distance from the fence to the outside of the saw blade equals the thickness of your stock, minus 11<" (tq allow for the shoulder), see Step ~ in Fig. 2. Since J used "l'It·thick stock, I set the fence "loG" from the outside of the blade, Then cut a 'l'Id'·deep dado at both ends of the panels. ROOT DADO. Next, I used the router table to rout a ~ •-deep dado on the other face of each panel (the outside face). 'Phis dado will law form a shoulder alongside the corner angle, see Corner Detail. 'ro rout this dado, mount a o/l straight bit in the router table and set the fence so the outside of the bit is in line with the dado you just cut on the saw, see S«>I)2. ROUTANGLE. AiteJ· the dadoes are cut, switch to a chamfer bie to rout a 4~·angle along Ule outside end of the panels, see Step 3. To get uniform VI' shoulders at both ends of the chamfer, sneak up 011 the final eut by raising the bit a little at a time until both shoulders equal '11'. fRONT AND BACK
Next, work
call
begin
011 the
RGU~E1
EDGE GLUE lYIO END
1f""'""="",,J:::::P~AN~ElS
RlOM 41.. STOCK
CORNER DETAJ!, $ttOUIDER
END PANEL
,
@
'NO PANEL
END DETAil 1(1' DADOES.
VI.~Ollie ON INSIOE ----....._ FACE-OF Bom END PANELS
AGUR.E 2
RIP HNCe
-
n'Ont (B) and
back (C) panels. Again, these panels are
edge-glued Irom 4/4 stock, and planed to a uniform thickness. CUT1'0 SIZE. 'The length of both panels
is the same (35~">, but the width varies
4
WOODSMITH
•
•
since a drawer fits under the front panel (B). First, cut the back panel (C) to a width of ]7", see Fig. 3. Next, cut the front panel (B) 6Vil 1'lSS in width than the back panel, see Fig. 8. (This measurement takes into consider .. tion the 5'h" drawer height, a v..' g"dp above the drawer, and a '0/,.' filler ship below the drawer, refer to Fig. 10.) TONGUl:. AftN the panels are cut to size, cut a rabbet on the end of each piece to create a 'h"-Iong tongue to fit in the dadoes on the end panels. r cut this on the router table, see Corner Detail ill Fig. 8. Sneak up on the cut until the tongue fits snugly into the dado. RUNNERANDSHELF GROOVES.There'S one more step on the front and back panels. Two v..·-wide grooves have to be cut on the inside faces of these panels to hold tray runners and a shelf, see Fig. 3.
FIGURE 3
,
~~
"
GROOVE !lETAlt
When the shelf is complete, the basic case can be assembled. Start by gluing the front (B) and back (C) panels to one end panel (A). To help hold the assembly square, slide the shelf (D) into the grooves from the open end. After the glue dries, glue the other end panel in place.
-
TRAY RUNNER GROOVl:
~ GIlOOvtS fOil PlYWOOD SHf11
Once the grooves are cut, a plywood shelf (0) can be made, see Fig. 4. To determine
ASSEMBLY
'-
EPGE atUIl ... FRONTJaACK FROM 414 SlOCK
SHELF
the width of the shelf (from front to back), dry-assemble the chest and measure the inside distance between the end panels. Then add 'fl' for the two V.."-<.leep dadoes. The length of the shelf is equal to the inside width of the case. (There aren't any tongues on the ends of the shelf.) TONGUE. Now rout rabbets on the front and back edges to form tongues, see Detail in Fig. 4. Again, 'sneak up on this cut until the tongue just fits the groove.
-
FRONT PANEL
SET DADO BlAM ~~W1DE
. .'
BACK PANEL
-l l.
.-1. .. I ,
I
• ]r.!
FIGURE 4
DETAil
cur so
AND aACK EOGES -~ TO FORM 'I.... TONGUES
TOP TRIM
®
After the case is assembled, two runners
(E) are added to bold a stiding tray. RUNNERS. Cut the runners to a width of
\VOODSMITH
IN
ueaEl FRONt
RUNNERS AND TOP TRIM
'VI', see Runner Detail ill Fig. 6. Then cut rabbets along each edge, forming a tongue centered on the runners that fits the Yo.. grooves in the front and back panels, After the tongues are formed, cut the runners to length to fit inside the case. Then glue the runners into the grooves. Shop Note: It's difficult to clamp the runners. So 1wedged a length of scrap between the runners to PI"eSS them in place until the glue dried. TOP TRIM. The final step is to add W'thick trim strip (F) around the top edges, see Fig. 5. Cut the trim strip 1V..' wide and round over the bottom outside edge, see Trim Detail in Fig. 5. Then, miter the pieces to length, and glue and nail them to the top of the case.
tONGUE
FITS
;It .... 0
'AROUND
OvtR
TRlM DETAil
AVOID NAIUNG lltM IN LOa( OR HINGE AREA
END PANEL
@ TRAY RUNNERS
®
SHEtF
@
,I
RUNNER DETAil
5
THE BASE FRAME
FIGURE 7
LAY OUT "PArrtRN
Am.
ctnTlNG
TO LEI'iG'iH
ORlll I ~ HOlE 8(FORE tAYlNG
our
fIGURE 8
/" -MOLDING «: STRIP
PATTEItN
110"". T....
STep 1
fENCE
J/
l'I'l l! ""'-"'i, CROSS SECTION
J.o
STEP 2
J ''I,~ r~t:;;:-JJ..
1111:1
II~ "1,,'--;
• oK
L.. '0/ .;" F" •• -
ORIU ¥i~"SHANK
U
HOlES TO AnACH BASE TO CASE
rU I
"''''lllIlf
stock to
~£ml'~' E stRAIGHT
"'. "IT-
•
fIGURE 9 CUT10 fiT __ .
OPENING'
'\
:-' .--
/ •c
Q) FRONT FIlLER STRIP
6
Once the case was complete, I began work on the bth, I routed a Roman agee profile along the lop edge, see Step 1 in Fig. 8. Then cut a rabbet along the bottom edge, see Step 2. Shop Note: This rabbet should be I/,/' less in \\;dth than the thickness of your
-118 )I 1 %. '" WOOOSCR£W' KlCKBOARD
SIOE-~'
create
a Va' shoulder
(llAt},"
-
in my
ease). see CI'OSSSection in Fig. 8. MITERMOLDING.After the rabbets are cut, miter the pieces so the shoulder of the rabbet fits against the inside edges of the kickboard frame, see Fig. 8. Then glue the
molding strips in place. ASSEMBLY. To attach the case to the kiekhoard frame, drill o/i.' shank holes completely through the base molding, see Fig. 8. Then tum the ease upside down and position the base on top of it. Now chill pilot holes, and.screw the base to the case, see Fig. 9. FD.LEll S'l'R1P. After the base ftame was screwed to the ease, I added a ""ont filler strip (J) to the bottom of the draw...' opening, see Fig. 9. It's positioned to create an \1,;' shoulder where the ends of the strip meel the end panels (A). (This corresponds with the V." shoulder on the come r jOint.) WOODSMlTH
-
AGUR( 10
DRAWER GUIDES
•
,
'!'here are a rew more details to take rare of. First. drawer guides are moonted inside the ease to a lip created by the molding .trip:; (1). see Fig. 10. These guides ""","sl of a runner and a side guide, To make the drawer guides. first cut the runners (I.) lr "ide and the side guides (M) I" Mde. Then cut both to length to fit between the back edge of the filler strip (.1) and the cabinet back (C), see Fig. 10. Now glue the runner (L) to the top edge of the molding .1til»' (I) on the inside or the kickboaI'(I frame, see Fig. 10. Then glue a side guide (M) on top of the runner. Make sure both the runner and ";de guide are glued tight <\Ifainstthe end panel I'lU.£R STRU'.To complete the drawer opening, I glued a vertical filler strip (K) at each end of the opening • see Fig. 10. (Note that the gr.un on this strip runs the same direction as the front of the ease.) Glue the strip" to the ends of the opening 50 they're nush "ith the front panel (8).
1 DRAWER
:K) VERTICAL
RUfR STRIP
~
fanTom {'00lN1HOI
sniP GLUE.UIIIN'.
onSMITN
KICICIQARO
TO UP ON 1NSlDE Of CASE
ROOt' 11
-
SIDE
TRIM
o
r
20"."-
S'DE
___.,.;-
"', .
yo
I UD PANS.
The lid for the chest is made from solid
w,
2'_
MOtOING
THE LID AND TOP FRAMJ
stock. and topped with a scrolled frame. rn~ uo, Start.by edge-gluing' enough 414 stock to make a lid blank (N) that's l1lughly 28" wide and 39" long. 'Vben the blank Is dry and planed Oat. cut it 111.'Iarg~r (in both dil'ection..) than the ease, see Fig. II. ROtrr PllOFIt.il. Next. rout a Roman egee prolile around all four edges lea\ing a \I.. ~houlder. see Edge Detail in Fig. 11. SCROu..EO FRAME. '!'he scrolled frame on top of the lid COll-'0 it's 1V," I~$$thttn the length of thP tid. see ~'ilt.J I. The two side pieces (0) are cut to a width of :r. Sine(: these pieces are only mitered on the buck comet, first cut. miter on 000 end of ea('h piece. '!'hen trim the other end straight I\() tho distance from the long point on the mil." 10 the !'ront edge is lil." less than the wirllh of the tid, see ~'ig. 11. SCIIOI.LWORK.Afte.· the pieces are cut to .ize. the 8(:1'011design can be cut as was don.' em the kiekboard. Drill out the I" holt", make A pattern (see Fig. 12) and ttanl'rcr it to th. workpiece. Then cut out and .and the d,,,,ign. Al>-'
GUIDE'\
• (ClOSS 5ECI1ON)
®
EDGE GlUE UO RC»4 STOcK
"'4
SET
SIDE
TRIM '.- lOMAN 00 .. 811
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1yo
,
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IlOIU. ,.
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-,7 ...
IlIA.ICOU ~ ~ _2·....
10",[
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HOU
'1
3"
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BACK TRIM {IWf
AU. SIDES
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~
-k TO.
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....
,
_ ...- ,, .,~ ->
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'8'...
,.- ON
fIGURE 13
.,I...
4'1,'
j,."
.'
~"PlUG
FIGURe 12
aAQ(
FltOM _.
..
,.,. "'1M
.4 "
r- ••
SlOE TRIM
(fULL 'ATlHN)
., 7
FIGURE 14
THE TRAY
r
All that's left 011 the chest are the tt-.lYand tbe drawer. J started on the tray. DSSIGN.The tlllY is actually a tt-a ditional dovetailed drawer, but with a twist. On a typical drawer, the front faces the D.'ontof the case. But on this tray, I had to construct it SO the front actually faced the side. The critical measurement on the tray is its depth (from front to back inside the case). Since it's easier to cut a drawer front to a precise length than it is to make the
SIDE®
X~
BOTTOM® (v,." ptYWOOO. CUT
FRONT
ro
FIT)
_
~@
SIDE
®
f
18"'/..
overall drawer length a precise fit, 1 j"S\
NOTE, TRAY 510£S FACE FRONT AND BActe OF CHEST
W' DOVETAILS
STEP 1 'I•••
turned the drawer sideways in the case. CUT1'Ji1:! I'IF;Csg. Start building' the tray by cutting. tray front and back (Q) (Which are really 0)1the sides) and two tt-.lYsides (R). All four pieces are cut from ~" stock to a width of 3~", see Fig. 14. To determine the exact length of the D'Ontiback pieces (Q), measure the inside depth of the cabinet (n'Ont to back) and cut the tray's Ji'Ontiback y",' less. Then cut the tray's side pieces to a length 01' 2()". sour DOV!lTAU.s.After the pieces are cut to size, rout Vi' dovetails to join the (OUI' pieces. $00 pages 20 to 2J. sorroa, Now, cut grooves fOI' the v." plywood bottom (S) and then cut the bottom (S) to fit, see Detail in Fig. 14. THE DRAWER
STEP 2 NOTE, ItOIJT INDS ARST TO PtttVEtfT
NOTE,
CH1PQUf
CUTMean
Next" I built the drawer, 'l'his time, it's oriented in the traditional direction. I started by making a rabbeted drawer front ('1') from 414stock. To determine the
width of the D'Ont, measure the height of the opening and add %" (for two %" rabbets). 111><1 subtract V,." (for clearance). M for the length of the drawer front, first measure the width of the opening. Then add %" for the rabbets and subtract 1'1' (for Y,,f' clearance on both sides), pnOFlLE EDGE.After the drawer front is cut to size, rout a shouldered round-over on all four edges, see Stell J in Fig. 15. 'Ihen rout. 0/..' rabbet around the back. Shop Note: I routed the rabbet in two passes. First. set the fence for a shallow bac/aoard$ (left to right) scoring pass to prevent chipout, Then move the fence and make a full %"·wide cut.
IN
TWO 'ASSES.
seemr
D@AWER
®
BACK
CUT OTHER PIl!CES. When the drawer
front is complete, cut the sides (U) and back (V) to size from 'h"·thick stock.
PUllS
V," RA8&ET ON AU FOUR SiDES
8
JOIN£RY. \Vhen all the pieces are cut, rout dovetail joints Oil the COMlet'S (see page 22). Then cut grooves for the drawer
bottom (W), and cut the bottom to lit. 1'ULl.S. Before assembly. I drilled shank holes to mount U10carved (or brass) pulls, see Fig. 16. If you're using carved pulls, you have to drill corresponding holes in the back of the pull. To do this, clamp the pull in place and mark the pilot holes on the pull with an awl. Then dl;1I the pilot holes in each pull. WOOD SMITH
-
FIGURE 17
HARDWARE
•
•
DETAIL
The only thing left; to complete the chest is to add the hinges, tid support, and lock. H.INGES. To mOlmt the hinges, first rout mortises in the top edge of the chest, see Fig. 17. Then screw the hinge down so the pin is centered on the edge of the trim. Next, center the lid (N) on the case and mark where the hingeis located. Alter outlining the flap on the bottom of the lid, rout an enclosed mortise to accept the hinge . LID supPOnTS. Alter the hinges are mounted, you can add the lid supports at each end of the chest, see Fig. 17. LOCK. l~inaUy, I added a lock. Tbe lock mechanism is mounted so the keylU/l
UD
CASE A B C
End Paneols (2)
'0/'(10 x 17- 20
Fron, Panel (1) Bade Panel (1)
"/,6
0
Sholf (')
E
Troy Runners (2)
1011._35'/. 1)/16 X 17 - 3SV. 'AN ply. 191/. x 34¥. ''1'00 x 0/..- 34$;' ,/.. xl'/16-10ft.
l
Drawer RUl1ners (2)
"1" x 2 - 180/.
M
Side Guides (2)
·'/,. xl -
"Ii.
uo N Ud (I) 0 Side Trim (2) P Bock Trim (1) D«AW£I1II1UIY 0 T.. y m."!mack (2)
• , S
U
v W
T"", Side< (2) 1iay i!<>ltom (I) O'C..... f... t(l} Oro~r SidctS (2) Oro\Wt Batie (1) Boltom (1)
Onrw."
\\ ':lOOSMITH
O"N
CfNTER I.ID
ONCAse",
--
l'A"
1ROUT MORnSES SuGHn y t.£SS
I 'It LONG. W
lJ4-
rO"N
DON~ MOImSE
THAN KALf mE
WIDTH HINGE
END PANE.L
OUT BACK
lHI(KHESS Of
EDGE
KNUCKLE
CROSS SECTION Non;, LOCK MORnSE
o Ce:NTER UNE
wla SE
OFfSfT ON CHEST
Of CH£ST ROUT OUT
atmR
SHAUOW MORTISE FOR PlATE
MORTISE
ON nUCKNE$.S OF FRONTPANEl
ROUT DEE~
MORT'ts1i ""'100<
r-..::::--,·_:>lONGUe
I
u
v
$Mlf {OJ (:I.It from 24~ • 43" ,,,"I 01 Jf." plywood.
u
Troy 8olfom (S) and Drawer 8oHom CW) cut
c
I 'M.-
K
J
SUGH1I.Y PASTW
X
f
G H I
fOOl OF ntlM
CUTTING DIAGIIAM
Owrou Dim.: 37o/."w x 21 ¥.."d x 217/."'h
Top Trim BASe
SHOULD
TOP 1ltlM
MATERIALS LIST
F
CENTfR PIN ON SACK
leV.
'0/,. x 21'/t
- 37'1,
'0/,. x 3-
20'1..
'¥t. x 5 -
36',4
y, X 3'/2 -
18·/,6
I
fron"! 48'" JC. 48'" ~t of V." ptywoocI
p 11
7';''' • 96" H
G
C
Fj:
A
A
A
A
B
N
A
A
0
R
0
" B
0 L
~ X SV..- 321/a '/ .." ply. 1BV.. X 32
,
N
u
v"x 5'1..-19
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C_h_err_yDresser AN HEIRLOOM FOUR-DRAWER CHEST
AbouL a year ago (in Woodsmit/, No. 53), we featured plans fo.· a seven-drawer lingerie dresser. Since lJlat time we've received many requests for another project of the same design. Thi$ cherry FQur-dr~werdresser is designed with the same heirloom quality. And as with the lingerie dresser it's also built with frame and panel construction, dovetailed drawers, and a solid-wood top. SIDE fRAMES
1 began building the dresser by assembling
the two frame and panel side names. Each side Ii-ameconsists of a top and bottom rail, two stiles, and a v.," plywood panel, Start work by cutting four rails from 41U1ted to use a dovetail jig to make the drawers, r had to make the drawer heights a multiple of %", refer to page 20. Once the drawers, rails, and clearance between each drawer were added up, the lengtb of the stiles came to 2.~"y,(. JOINERY
AlWr all of the rails >U1dstiles are cut to finished size, the joints that hold then, 1.0-
gether tan be cut,
.... DADO£S.Before assembling the frames, r switched over to \\,0.'[< on the ft'On~and back face stiles (0, E). The fu'St step here is to layout the position of the four 1/,' dadoes that at" needed to hold the ralls and runners that support the drawers, Shop Note: At this point, things ean get a tittle cOlllltsing since you need mirrored sets of pieces. 1'0 avoid confusion. I stood the foul' face stiles on end as they would appeal' in the dresser, see Fig, 2, Then I marked the '-roP" of "'10h piece and put an "X" em the outside edge of each piece. Once the pieces are oriented, the dadoes can be laid out, The first dado on .11 four face stiles is located %" down f1'OI1\ the top
end. Then three more dadoes are laid out to accommodate the three difl'E\l:entdrawer ~izes,500 the layout shown in Fig. 1. AlW,' laying out the dadoes, raise the dado blade to a height of \4" and set the rip fence as a stop ",.. Irom the inside of tile blade. 500 Fig. ~. Now check that t,J", blade matches tbe layout line and then cut the dado, Next, turn the workpiece end for end, check the layout line on that end, and CUI. a dado on the bouom end. After cutting tbe dadoes on both ends of aU four pieces. move the fence until the dado blade matches the other layout lines and cut the remaining' dadoes.
GlIOOYEFOil PANELS. &'tal't by cutting a !I.,"-deep groove on the i"8id~edges of the rails (A, B) and the side stiles (G) to hold the plywood panels, see Fig. 1. Center this groove on the thickness of the workpiece, Shop Note: The lXl"els are made from v... plywood. But most hardwood plywood actually measures less than v.,' thick. So cut the grooves just wide enough to accept the actual thickness of the plywood panels. TENONS. Atb!r cutting the grooves, r cut stub tenons 011 the ends of all foU)'rails to fit into the grooves ill the stiles. '!'he length of the tenons matches the depth of the grooves (~·l and the thickness matches the width of the grooves, see Fig. 4.
10
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CORI'IERJOIN'l'. When all the dadoes are cut, you can begin work on the joint that holds the face stiles (D, E) to the side stiles (C). This is a combination of a rabbet with a tongue and groove joint, see Fig. 4. The first step is to cut a groove on the inside face of the face stiles (D, E). Position the lip fence SA> the distance to the outside of the blade equals the thickness Of the side stile (C), see Step 1 in Fig. 5. (Note; Be sure this groove is cut on the face with the foW'dadoes.) RABBET NEEDEO. The next step is to cut a rabbet next to the groove. This rabbet is not really part o[ the joint. it's to hide part of the joint. That is, without the rabbet, the dadoes (in the face stiles) would be eXI>OSed on the sides of the dresser, To prevent this, r cut a rabbet the same depth as tbe dadoes on lhe inside face of each face stile (D, El). The side stile (C) then fits into this rabbet; and hides tbe dadoes, see Fig. 4. ClTI' RABIlET. To cut the rabbet, ,,,ii\(! the dado blade %" high, see Step 2 in ~'ig. 5. Then a
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Once the side frames were complete, I began work on the drawer support pieces, CUT RAILS. Start by cutting eight JloQnt and back rails (G) to sise from 414 stock, see Fig. 7. Then cut two rabbets on the front edge of each rail to create a tongue that fits into the dadoes that were cut on the face stiles (D, E), see Detail in Fig. 7. Next, drill a countersunk shank hole in the two top front rails, see Fig. 7. These holes are used later to screw the drawer divider (J) in place, refer to Fig. 9. ASSEMBLY. Now glue and clamp the rails into the dadoes on the front and back face stiles, see Fig. 8. FACING STRIPS
After the rails are glued in place, facing sbipa can be added to the front edge of the front rails. There are two different sizes of facing strips, see Fig. 8. The top 31111 bottom strips (H) are wider (10/.,'') than the two mid
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Next, drawer guides are mounted to the rails, There are two tyj)(j$ of guides those along the Outside of the cabinet and those behind the drawer divider (.1), see Fig. 10. Both types consist of a runner (K, M) and a side guide (L, N). OUTSIDE CUJl)ES- To make the outside guides, first, cut eight runners (,K) 1'I." wide. Then cut them to length to fit be-tween the front and bsck rails, see Fig. 10. Next, cut eight side guides (L) from lit· stock. To determine their width, measure from the inside corner to the edge of the front stile and add 'Id', see Detail. Then cut them 2'h" longer than the runners so they hallg over 1y." 011 each end. Now screw a side guide to the top of a runner (to make a complete outside drawer guide), and glue this unit to the front and back rails, see Fig. 10. MIDDLE ORAWER GUlDES. The middle two drawer runner" (M) are cut 2" wide, and the guides (N) are cut v..' wider Will WOODSMlTH
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the thickness of the d~...wer divider. Centel' these guides on the runners and screw them down. Then mount these units behind the divider, see Detail in Fig. 10.
AGURE 11
CHAMFERS \Vhen aUof the drawer guides were glued
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in place, [ routed stopped chamfers on the
four comers of the cabinet using a chamfer bit v.'ith a pilot. To stop the chamfers at the top and bottom, clamp a stop block flush with each end of the stile, see Fig. 11. (Option) You can also rout a chamfer around the inside of the frame by using a V -groove bit and a special guide on the router, see Wood$mith No. 49, page 23.)
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RGUR£ 12
BASE
After routing tbtl chamfers, [ began work on the base. The base i. a bullnose frame
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glued on top of a kiekboard frame. BULLNOSE J'RAlItE. To make the bullnose frame, cut a frame front (0) and two fl-ame sides (P) to a width of 20/'/', see Fig. 12. Then rough cut the front 43" long and the sides 23" long. Before cutting the pieces to final length, rout a bullnose edge on the pieces, First. rout a V.' round-over on the top edge, see Step 1 in ~'ig. 12. Then, to rout the bottom edge, switch to a V," round-over bit raised 0/,," above the table, see Step 2. After the pieces are routed, miter the front piece (0) on both ends so the length is 2'1." longer (from long point \(I long point) than the cabinet's width. Then miter each side piece (P) on one end and cut them J V," longer than the cabinet's depth. Now glue the miters together \(I form the three-sided frame, (Hold the pieces on a Oat surface until the glue sets.) KlCKBOARD. The rest of the base eonsists of a kickboard front, back, and two sides, Cut these pieces to a width of 3W', see Fig. 13. Then miter both ends of the kickboard front and back: (Q) so the length of each piece is W' shorter than the bullnose name. Next, miter both ends of each kickboard side (R) so the length is \4" shorter than the bullnose name sides. t
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To complete the cabinet, I started work on tbe solid-wood top (S). IjIJlLl) UP TOP, Begin by edge-gluing 414 stock to make a blank that's 23' wide and 4;~ long. Mer it's dry, plane it flat and cut it to finished size: 2Y....longel' than the csbinet's width and lv.,' wider than its depth, see Fig. 16. ROUTPROFILE.Next, rout the two sides and the front, creating the same bullnose profile as on the base frame - except the 'I." round-over is on tJ ie top edge. ATl'ACHING TOP. in order to fasten the top to the esbinet and to create a screwing surface fOI" the plywood back, 1 added a fiDel' strip on top of the top hack rail, see Detail A ill Pig, 16. Now, to secure the top, fil'SLcenter it on the cabinet (flush wiLh the back). and clanJp it down. Then drill angled SCrewholes up through the top rails and drawer guides, see Detail B. After drilling these holes, remove the top and enlill'll" the shank boles so the top can expand and contract with changes in humidiLy. Then screw the top in place.
TO ~. THICK
MOLDING STRIPS
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COVErAllS
To dress up the cabinet, 1 added molding strips above the base and below the top. To make these molding strips (T), start by resawing some l1h" wide stock to r})t' thick. Then .'Out a Yf cove on one edge, see Fig. 17. Finally, trim the molding off the outside edge, see Fig. 18. MITER.Now miter Lhe molding stlips to at around the front ana sides of the cabinet and glue them in place, see Fig. 16. DRAWERS
AMl' the molding strips are in place, the only thing lell, is to make the drawers. CUT'l'II£ Pf8CES. Begin by cutting the drawer fronts (t), Y, CCl 11'0111 414 stoek SO they',-e y,,' less in both width and length than the openings in the cabinet. (This ill Va.' less in length than the distance between the drswer guides (L, N). You can cut them ~ghtly longer and sang them after assembly, refer to page 23.) Next, cut the drawer backs (V, Z, DD) Irom ~. stock the same size as the fronts. Then cut the drawer sides (W, A.A, EE) from \4" stock the same width as the fronts, and to a uniform le.ngth of 180/•. JOINERY.Once all the pieces are cut to size, rout dovetail joints on each corner (see pages 20 to 21). and cut grooves for the plywood drawer bottoms. Before assembly, cut a notch on the bottom edge of each back piece to fit around a drawer stop pad (which is added later, see Fig. 20). Then cut the plywood bottoms (X, BB, FF) to tit between the grooves. RAIS!::TIlE PANELS. To complete the drawer fronts, I made chamfer cuts to create a raised panel effect, (see W0
S'I.mh, No. 53). Then drill holes for the
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drawer pulls, see Figs, 21 and 22. ASSEMBLY. Finally, the drawers can be glued up with the bottoms in place. GLIJ)E Sf RIPS. '!'here are a few more details, to complete the drawers. To help the drawers glide smoother, I added nylon snips to the drawer runners, see Fig. 21. TIleS(! strips also raise the drawer to create a slight gap below each drawer front. Shop Note: AfI.er the glide strips 81'e in place, the top edges of the drawer may have to he planed down fo.·a smooth fit. DRAWERSTOPS.To stop the drawers from being pushed too far into the cabinet, I glued a drawer stop pad to each front rail, see Fig. ZO. Also, to prevent the drawers from being pulled all the way out, I screwed [Ul'II' buckles to tbe back of the Cront rails above the pulls, see Fig. 22. FINISIL To complete the cabinet, J added a v.' plywood back and then finished the entire dresser "ith General Finishes' TwoStep SealaceIJ system.
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MATERIALS LIST
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R.n l'o<;n9 (2)
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Dovetail Jig
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SHOP-MADE JIG FOR CUTIING HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS When I first started to build this dovetail jig, I thought the advantage was going to be the low coot. Dovetail jigs are priced from $50 up, but you can make the one shown here for about $30. All you need is some standard off·the-shelf hardware, five board teet of hardwood, and a piece of v... MasO.lite to make your 0\'1'0 "comb" template. (A kit is also available that includes a pre-cut plastic template, Sources, page 2<1).
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SOLVING DESIGN PROBLEMS
As Iworked on the design, Ibegan to think about what I didn't like about the dovetail jigs I've used before. The main problem I've had with other jigs is the system for holding the workpieces tight to the jig. (If the wood shifts even slightly, the joint won't fit together eorrectly.) On most jigs the workpieees are held with metal bars. The bars are tightened so there are 2" wings overhanging on each down with wing nuts or knobs. But you end. (The wings are used for clamping the just can't tighten them enough to keep the jig down to a bench or table, see photo.) wood from moving around as you rout. CUT TO wnrra. Once the base is asAnd, on some of the jigs, the metal bar sembled, trim it down to a finished width of 6', see Fig. I. IVhen trimming the u'Ont bends as the wing nuts are lightened. CAMS. To solve these problems, the jig edge, make SU,!'e it's eXQ£t!"90· to the top. ORlU. BOL'£$. Afte!' the base block was shown here 1I5e1 cams. They're much easier on the fingers and work faster than trimmed, 1 dlilled six holes in it. First, wing nuts. And you can apply considera-
The first step UI making the jig is to build the base. It's built up from three pieces of "'4 hardwood (;y". to '0/,,' actual thickness). (Note: YGU could also use one piece of 8/4 stock and one piece of 414 stock.) It.'s important to Use a tight-grained hardwood such as maple so the threaded inserts won't pull out. CUT AND GLUE BASE PIECES. f began by cutting two base top pieces (A) to rough dimensions of 6th' wide and 19" long and laminating the pieces together faee-to-face. After this blank is dry, cut iLto a finished length of 18", see Fig. 1. Next, I cut a base bottom piece (B) from 414 stock 1;0 a rough width of 6Y,' and finished length of 22.' Then screw and glue this piece onto the bottom of the top blank
16
make a space fm' the springs that hold the pressure bars away from the jig, see Detail in Fig. 1.
After counterboring, [ drilled a y,'.
0/0.
SECOND, GlUE
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, SECOND. DRIlL 'h~HOlE
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screwed on an insert. To help the insert cut into the maple, T rubbed some candle wax on the threads of the insert and tightened down the bolt with a socket wrench, see Fig. 2.
• •
• •
PRESSURE BARS AND CAMS When all four of the threaded inserts were screwed in place, Ibegan work on the pressure bars and cams, These pieces are cut from three blanks that measure 2" wide and iT long, see Fig. 3. (Note: These blanks can be b,ult up from two pieces of 4 f4 stock or one piece of 8 f4 stock - just so they'l-e about 1~" to 1%" thick.) PRESSURE-BARS. To make the two pressure bars (C), cut two of the blanks square (1%0" x 1%" and to a finished length of Iv'. Then drill ¥o·-dla. holes l' from each end to accept the eye bolts, see Fig. 3. CAllIS. The four whistle-shaped cams (0) can be cut from the other blank. r started by squaring up one edge of the blank and then cut it in half lengthwise, see Fig, 4LAY OUT CAMS. Next, I made a poster board patten) of a cam. To achieve the gradual tightening action of the cam, the rounded bottom of each cam is made from two diffe,-ent radii (%" and 1"). These radii start at two different center points (v." apart), and interseet at the bottom. (These two radii create the cam action that exerts gradually increasing pressure on the bar.) After tl'l111sfeITingthe patterns to each workpiece, 1 drilled a !(F-diameter hole (centered on the l' radius centerpoint) in each cam to accept axle pins, see Fig. 4. CI1I' SLOT. Before cutting the earns to final shape, cut a o/hl....wide slot through each end of the cam blanks to accept the eye bolts. [ did this by standing the piece up on end 0)\ the table saw and backillg it with a 2x4 block, see Fig. 5. Cut a I:y,."-deepslot centered on each end, see Step 1 in Fig. 5. To widen the slot to 'Yi,', move the rip fence slightly away from the blade and repeat the cut. Then turn the piece around SO the opposite face is against theience and make another cut. Continue moving the fence slightly and cutting on opposite sides (Step 2) until the 0/,," eye bolt slides into the slot. CU'I' TO SIIAPE. Once the eye bolt fits tbe slot, cut and sand each cam eo Iinal shape . Also, slightly soften all of the sharp edges, see Fig. 6. CUTAXLE PIN. Next, I cut a piece of '1>." rod to act as an axle pin through the eye bolt, see Fig. 7. (Shop Note: You can cut tbis from a long rod, or nOOln the unthreaded section of a !(", boll) EYE BOLT. The eye bolt is just a standard 0/,( X 5' eye bolt purchased Dooma hardware store. After using the jig for awhile, J discovered that the eye section started to uncurl when extreme pressure was applied to the cam. To prevent this, I had it welded shut, see Fig. 7. WOODSMlTII
•
DRIVE ¥,." I.D. INStRT BELOW SURfAce 1/1'
(TWO PJECES)
fIGURE 4
.~
~F:U~~~SI:Z:E:C:AM:::PA:n::E:RN:_
I-
3"
®
O~lU'I.." DlA. HOLE
CANt
__
1/,"'--1
'x
~I-....
,.
MARK CENTER OF ...- t- RADIUS AND DRIU '){' 0lA. HOO
o
~
t
RAOIUS
,.
o
.,"''
I
RADIUS
8'
,
CUT C/I.N, SIAN,X IN HAll. THEN DRAW lwO CAMS ON EACH peEeE
FIGURE S
DETAil
AlP FENct
WASTE
FIGURE 4
AGURE 7
'h" II lV."I' ROD ACTS AS AXI.£ PIN
SUGMTI.Y SAND AU. SMAR, EDGES
---Y,.lC
$~
En 8QlT
17
AGURe s
"COMB': TgMP!.A!E NOTE: M.AU: tEMPlATE FROM- 14" MASONltt fIIE-MADE trMPlAl'{,
TEMPLATE
After the jig base block and esms were
OR PURCHASE
complete.l began work on the "comb" template that guides the router. Note: We're offering a pre-cut plastic template in a kit (see page 24), but you can make your OWh
SEE SOURCES, PAG!; 2~
fi'Olll ~"
fiGURe 10~
FIGURE 9 AUXlUARY feNCE
Iln.~ ..~
• ~--
- -f) . •
I
NOTE: MO'IE fENCE: SO KEY IS EXACTLY ~r.."FROM,~.-, DADO BLADE
CHAM'" TOP _.. EDGES
G~UtA 7/10'INOEXING KFf INTO
AItST NOTCH IN FENCe
fIGURE II AU~UARY FENCE
DETAIL
.....
~ 6'ACK UP WORKMECE wrTH IMSONnt
v...
TO PREVENt
CHI POUT
___..~'
AGURI! 13
lIN.GlE BRACKU
( wAST<
CUTOff
WASTE WIOTH Of St,OT SHOULD MATCH
CUT TEMPlATE f'lU$H Wlnt 910$ Of BASE
,- .;.-",,,-_ ., .
VI,
!\faRonite.
This template must be extremely accurate or the dovetail joint won't fit together correctly, I found that the most accurate method of cutting the notches in the comb was to use a box joint jig. (To build a box joint jig. see Woods",;!" No. 42.) CI)T N01'C1IES.Start by cutting a piece of Masonite 4" wide and 24" long, see Fig. S, The next step is cutting the notches. Since a W' dovetail hit uses a 11",' (outside diameter) router guid& bushing, the notches have to be exactl\' 0/0." wide. (Check the width cut by youI' dado blade by making a noteh in a test piece and see if your guide bushing fits.) When the notch width is C01'1'OOt, raise the blade 1" high and then screw a tall auxiliary fence to tbe miter gauge. Now, stand the Masonite on edge and cut a notth 6" from One end, see Fig. 9. U'lJ)Il~G 'KBY.After the first notch is cut. cut a indexing key and glue it into the notch in the fence, see Fig. 10. Once the glue dries, trim the top of the key slightly and chamfer the edges so the workpiece will slil) over it .easily. Then, move the fence OV(~l'and screw it to the mitel' gauge so the key is ir.J.
CUT OFf
3"
OlAMFftR OF HOU; IN~am
lONG
"...--MACHIN£ SCREW. lfAVE A 1'R lONG' STUD
t.here are fourteen ?/j,..If,,\\·ide notches and
thirteen 'I.."-wide pins, it should measure 11"Yo"", see Fig. 8. ROUNOTHl·: PINS. Once all the notches
STUD
DETAIL
COUNtQSINK HOl£S lEMPlAlf fOR 'Il' )C IIi' _-Fh MAQiINE SCR~S
I/.{'_~
POSmON ltM.PlAtE RUSH
WITH ENDS OF &ASE
18
BRACKET mAil
are cut, ] filed the front end of each pin round, see Fig. 12. (Note: The back end of the notches on most commercial templates are also rounded, but they don't have 00 be to eut dovetails.) CU1'TO LENGTH. To cut the template to length, place it 011 the base block with the middle pin centered on the length, see Fig. 13. Then mark and cut the template the same length as the top of the base. BRACKETS. The template is attached 00 Lhe block with angle brackets. These can be made from 4' x 4" steel corner brackets. WOODSMlTJ:l
"...
I •
Start by haeksawing one "leg" on each bracket to 2" long•• ee Fig. 14. Then cut a 1'1.... long slot up trom the cut-off end. Depending on the brand of C0111erbracket you buy, you will probably be cutting up through a mounting hole. Cut the slot to width to match the diameter of the hole. On some brackets these holes OJ'" offcenter and the slot should be cut off center to match. Aftel· the slots are cut, position the brackets on the ends of the template and countersink holes in the template for rnachine screws, see Detail in Fig. 15. STtJDS. Once the template is screwed to the brackets. two studs are mounted in the base block to position the braekets. To do this, position the template flush with the ends of the block and mark the slot positions on the front of the block, see Fig. 15. The studs are created by lightening two machine screws into the block and then cutting off thllir heads, see Detail in Fig. 15. (']'he diameter of the stud" should match the width of the slots in the brackets.) Shop Note: Before tightening the SCl'eW into the block, th"",ad two nuts onto the screw to act 3$ stops for the template, see Detail in Fig. 15.
DETAil
2
RABBET
3
"
1
..,11. suues OF
Vf"--v,."
2
MAKE MUlTlelf PASSES TO REMOVE RfMAlN'IHG
CUT STOP SlOCK Off EACH END
tiOlES
TO OlEATE SLOT
STOP BLOCKS
The only thing left to make are the stop blocks. These IlOO;liollthe workpiece" in relation to each other and to the template. COT THE IlABBE't. Start by cutting a piece of stock to a width of 2>,11'and length of fr. Then cut a o/,,'-bet along one edge, see Steps I and 2 in Fig. 16. Next cut the piece to a finished width of i%N, see Step 3.
SCIlAP
SUPPORT BlOCk <,
ANAL ASSEMIl.L.r
8ND NOTCH.When Clltting dovetail s, the two workpieees have to be offset 'lo"N from each other. To allow for this offset, cut a '1lo··wide notch at both ends the stop
or
•
•
block to produce a o/,.·Iong finger, see Fig. 17. After cutting the notches, check the length against the-comb template - the "finger" should be exactly .IS lOng as the 'luidlli of a pin on the comb. Shop Note: It may be easiest to cut the
SHOUtoER OF STOP BtOCK IS 6"<4" fROM
fingers just a hair longer than 'ltn· and file them down to exact size.
___"'0 x
SCREW DOWN SO
CENTER OF BASE
'1~
PAN HEAD SCREW
ADJUS1'MENT SLOT. To make tbe blocks adjustable, J cut IN.long SCl'eW slots by drilling a series of 0/,•• holes, SC
After the stop blocks are made, you can assemble all tbe pieces, see j;'ig. ~9. '1'0 start, screw the stop blocks down wiQ1 sheet metal Screws into the pre-drilled boles so the shoulder of each stop block is 611<· from the center of the jig. (This may have to be adjusted later, see page 20.) Then add the springs, bats, and cams, And finally, the template is held tightly to the studs with washers and wing nuts. WOODSMITH
flAt WASHER-
WEAl!
WING NUT TO AT STUD-
19
Dovetails: Ste~ ... By... Ste~_ Cutting tight dovetail joints with a router and template is easy but it requires a littJe planning ahead. It's best to plan the dimensions of tbe cabinet opening ahead of Lime to accommodate drawers that are joined with touter-cut dovetails. That is, the width (height) of the drawer front has to be a multiple of YO", (This produces a joint that's symmetrical both on the top alld bottom edges, see the photo.) Once the wid~h of the drawer fronts is determined, cut the drawer's side and back pieces to the same width. (Note: All of this assumes that the drawers are flush f!"Ont drawers. See page 22 for infonnation on making rabbeted front drawers.) LENGTH.AS for length, cut the pieces to fit the cabinet openings (taking into eonsideration any clearance). Also, to make sure the cor ners ru-e squa re, check that the drawer front and back ru.. equal lengths, and the drawer sides ., .. equal lengths. LAIlEL P.ECES. Once all of the pieces ••-e cut to finished size, lay them out and label the bottom edge of each piece. Also, number matching corners, sec Step 1.
Next, mount the "comb" template 011 the jig. Everything is okay if the bottom edge of the drawer side is centered on the first notch of the template, see Step 4. Now hold the template down (flat) on the drawer front and tighten the wing nuts, see Step 5. (The location of the stop nuts on the studs may take some adjustment, see box on l>age 21.) ADD 'rEMPLATE.
ALIGNMENT
ROUTER SET·UP
Setting lip the jig takes some trial and error, SO don't start with the finished pieees. I work with scrap that's the same thickness and width as the drawer pieces. MOUNT PIllCES. Start by mounting a test drawer side under the />'OI.t pressw .. bar and a test drawer top under the l())l pressure bar with the bottom edges Light against the left-hand stop block and the insides Jacing out, see Step 2, (This can be confusing since it's opposite the way the pieces will be in the drawer.) After the drawer ft'Ontis clamped down, repcsition the drawer side so its end is level with the drawer Iront, see Step 3,
The router is guided in and out of the template with the aid of a guide bushing, see Step 6, This is II metal "collar" that mounts to the router base, see Sources, page U. Next, mount II Vi' dovetail bit in the router, making sure the bit is centered in the collar of tbe guide bushing, If it's not, adjust the router's plastic basi! slightly. As for the depth Of lhe hit, I start with it 'h· deep (from the base), but. this may vary depending on the bit, see box. ROUTING THE PIECES
Now the pieces can be routed. To prevent chipout, start by making a light scoring
RETAil
"'
s",o..
14 ~
SO"f't'o!:;l AU. PlEaS A~E INSIDE FAClNG UP
0
" .z
31
DETAIL
FRONT
•
JIG
g " ~ " "
I'
SAS. SlOE
'\
MAKE
DllAWEJ!
ENOS lEVEL
S,""
Start by layi',g mu (Jw 4,,",<>:.· pieces ClamI' " drawer side under [I'QIU Next, loosen the front, pre8.~ure '''", 2 3 1 on a bench. 'witit the ;'t~ide8 Jacblll bar. Then clamp " dl'(uooi' Jron' a,nd ,-epositWil Ihe drcl'ver side so tJU) 1<1'.To (W()id cm(fusion, label,all pieces top of jig tight to the dl'llwer side, follsilies top end is perJecUy le~'CI1 with th_ top oj <»!
and n"",bel' tlte 1Iudcltillg CQ!'IIers. ,,,. "
BOTTOM
,
EDGE
I
\~
AI>JUSl A8Il I ....sTOP BlOCK : \._ r- ----1 ~ "'9T; I
~ I
L
c~~') _
face ou: a1ld boUo>ns to the wft,.
tJw dl'(,wer
/>'On/..
I £
L
TOP VIEW Place template over studs IUui check I/UJJ, tlte bottom edge oj the dT(lwer side is C8l1te.ro un litefirst. notch. If il1. not, IUljust. tile stop b/lJeJo.
4 20
E1ul oj drawer fron; s/UJu/.d start mu
Mmill! ""I' {/l.ule busMng onto IJw 5 celltere(i bel{vein, front anli back oj 6router. '1'11£" T(lise bit '1/ from router notef, at bO(1t. elu/s oj jig. To adjlc:St, base as a starting point. It may have /0
c/UI'lfIe position oj the stop ·",ds.
be adjusted slightly late.'. WOOPSMITH
-
• •
pass from right to left, see Step 7. Then gently move the router in and out th'" OOVErAll BIT of the fingers, moving from left to light, see Step 8. You should be able to feel the guide bushing stop at the beck of each notch. After routing, but before removing the pieces from the jig, cheek that you've l'OUllld each socket evenly, See Step 9. ROUTING RRMA1NlNG JOINTS. At, this point, you've routed the joint at the left MAl!I. c/lipout 011 d''(!~<>e>' side, procedure. Mount the drawer side on the s/art. by maicblg a ligllt pass from. o-ont of jig, the drawer back on the top of jig - with the bottom edges _"ainst the 1'igllt to wft.. This "V" groove est/,blishes stop on the liif! and the inside. facing out. a. clean shoulMr liM. The other two joints (No. 2 and 4) are routed with the pieces tight against the stop block on the rigltt side of the jig. Again, always claml) the drawer side to tbe jhmt of the jig, the inside of the pieces facing out, and the bottom edges a".rinst the stops (this time on the right). IVben routing on the right side, follow the same procedure. Make a light passs from right to left and then move the router in and out of the notches from left to right. BO'M'OMGROOVE. When all the joints are routed, aU that's left is to cut the FinaUy remove (lie (mllpiate alld grooves for the draw." bottom, see Step check (hat (,I( of (lte 8()(Jk~ts mid pin.5 10. Cut the g.-oove so it's centered Oil the bottom socket of the drawer front, Then it (,re It"iform. Opposi1e .ioints al'e cut. on mil be hidden by a pin on the drawer side. the ,wilt suie of the jig.
7
9
..woo the router from wft to 8 Next, 100rkinDin mut oul of the right
1I0tehell. PI<$h the 'rOIUe" into _" ,,,,teh ,,,,tit. the bushing hits tlte bottom of .tolelj.
R"
eonOM
FENCE
StO'
SOCKET
TAlII. -SAW
aUjoints are routed, cut bot10 After tom groove PW;Se..~ 0)1, S
t1QO
to ",atcl. drawer bottom thickness. Center tire gl'O(JlJe on the bottom sock~t.
TROUBLE SHOOTING S
v..,..
• •
WOODSMITH
OFFSET.After the joints are cut and tapped together, sometimes the top edge of the draw." Iront doesn't align with the top edge of U,e side, see third photo. If both the top and bottom edges.are offset equal amounts, there could be a couple of things wrong. FiJost, the edges of both pieces have to be light against the stop block. There might be some sawdust between t.he workpiece and the stop block. Second, the offset on the stop block may not be exactly If it's a little more than that, you might try adding a layer or
Va.·.
two of masking tape to the "finger" on the stop block. Note: The end of the stop block should be centered on the first notch of the template, see Step 4 on page 20. If it's not, the top edges of the two pieces will be aligned, but the joint won't be symmetrical on the top and bottom edges. OTHER PROBL.ThfS. M,ost other problems are usually caused by the pieces not being clamped down in the jig so they are flush across the top, or because they move out of position as they're being routed.
-
roo LOOSE. If joint. 'is too 'tOO DEEP. If'Jli'1$ go deep,
OFFSET.
loose, incr
align, they may 'wt haw
mow> temp!a:te toward you..
If th« pieces cUm't
roo TI(;llr. lf (I!8 joint is 'roo SHilLWW. If 110t deep been tight against stops. 0, I()() tight, decrease depth. 81Wagk, 'nU1ve toward jig. sU>p offset may 1wt be 'h<'.
21
-RABBETED
RABBETED DRAWERS
"ONT
Making the dovetail joints fOJ' a drawer with a ,-abbeted front is a little different from routing a flush front draw.", You have to take into eonside ration the lip around the outside of the drawer front, LAYlNG 0\11'. When you layout the pieces, the width of the drawer's back and sides has to equal the .hOld(ler-Io,shm"4er width of the drawer ll'Ont instead of the cverall width, 'lee Step 1. And the length of the back equals the shoulder-to-shoulder When l1t. draUNJrfront and /I", stop block, is designed so the width of the drawer back and sides is a multiple of 'I.", ;;;£ ~. DETAil SPACER. When clamping the drawer .rt<: i~?:-DRAWE'~ FRONTt (r(JnLto the jig, you also have to take into ~ fRONT.... lJ consider.. tion the rabbet. '1'0 correctly position the shoulder ill relation to the template, [ put a spacer between the drawer front and the stop block, see Step 2. To determine the thickness of this spacer, suotr .. ct the width of the rabbet D'9m 'V,," (since a pin plus a notch - Yo"). For a %" ,.. bbet then, you will need " y,' spacer, see Step ~ END ALIGNMEI'fl'. On the end of the To keep tile ..IUflddel·of rabbel alig>1e<1 Cui the ,~(l(;ket. in drawer fron: drawer f,'ont. the sltouJde,' of the ,.. bbet luitlt [ron! of jig, clamp U:lltp"mrg ('iI mouillg TOuter p'Om left I" ,·ight. (not the end) has to be aligned with the mbbeled. piece under fron: bar alld In'i,,!! Work ill (l'ut out .0 Ih~ IIUicif &"sltill{l (,'Ontof the jig. '1'0 'let this up, cut a match."ul oj' draUl1r fro>11.Itp tigltt. bottom .• ou! ilt all of tlte l/ol""e.<, ing rabbet in " piece of scrap ana clamp it
1
2
~\Al'
3
II,.
4
-
-'.Mu(O /~
r.
under the front pressure bar, Then bring
...
-,
~~~
~~-;. ~
~~ ~.::,JV
11
To cut groove for bot(61". it a stl'ip nemoue 11,. drawe r front mul 'lIPlace 5 'willt 6 a pi.c~ of Then. oj'Mo,sonile the botU"" oj' a block euds of ih« d''!};lool' sitl. a.ut fence. 'ubbe! ,!a
8""0.1',
l)i/l8 61t tile .((nU) M all. a
1'OU! the
fl,"''' fron: dllllvel ..
LEAVE FENCE AND BlOCK IN SAME POSJTrON
(I,.
to
ckmlp It)
Theu. nm the
.hmllder «gai,wt tile MaSOIlite,
~
AS~"#~
IU U I
l,_) •
11
RABBfTED
- TAP PfNS INfO SOCKETS UNTtl SlO£ IS flUSH
ORAwtR FIlOWY
To ",d the bottom {lroove on V'C ;,.. Tap drallJCI'sides iulo
in the .ame posiuor:
22
as for a. fill.h fron/, drawer,
the rh.. wer front up ti~ht agai,,~tthe ,-abbet in the scrap, see Step 3,
ROU'I'ING SIDEl;, AIle,' ,'Outing the drawer n'Ont (Step 4), remove the front from the top of the jig and replace it ,vith a piece of S"'I'8I),see Step 5. Then bring' the drawer side up tigbt against the front of the jig and the scrap, Since tile side piece doesn't have a rabbet in it, you can rout it without a spacer, BACK CORNERS, The back comers (where the drawer back meets the sides) al-e eut with the flush dovetail technique, see page 20, BonOM
GROOVE
The rabbet also has to be considered when locating the groove for the bottom in all the pieces, To do this, I just avoid the nil).. bet by making a little fence for the table saw that fits 1mder lhe rabbet, see Step 6, Then the groove will be cut the same distance from the shoulder on the drawer 5-ont as it is from the bottom on the back and Sides, see Step 7, When cutting a groove for a v.r plywood bottom, r do it ill two steps, First. adjust the fence !IO the cut will be slightly offcentered 011 the bottom socket. After making a pass with aUthe.'pieces, move bhe fence slightly until the groove is centered on the socket and wide enough to accept, the V.," bottom, Then make another pass, WOODSMITH
__
T_i~sfor Dovetailing. __
DEPTH·smING
• •
•
GAUGE
One of the most difficult things about setting up a router to cut dovetails Us adjusting the bit to the correct height. If the bit is just a hair too high, the joint will be too tight; just a hair too low, and it's too loose. BUILD A GAUGE. Once the bit is set to the correct, level, it's worsh taking a few minutes to build a simple depth-setring gauge. Then, whenever you use that bit, you can easily sel it to the correct height. When the .router was set up and ready to go, before cutting the dovetails, T flrst mad. a gauge (for future use) by culting a notch in a long scrap of hardwood. (Strut with a long block and cut it sholter later.) But there's a problem here. You can't run the router over the block because the guide bushing around the router bit blocks the bit from cutting. (It's not a problem when using" template since the template keeps the bushing up of[ the workpiece.)
DAll(,) FI.RST. To get around this problem, start by cutting a %·-wide dado across the block. Cut it a·little deeper than the height of the bushing, see Step 1. !'tOUT DOVETAILNOTCIl..After cutting the dado for the bushing, rout a wide dovetail-shaped notch across the block. To do this, 1 clamped the block in a vise and ran the bushing against the teft shouldel' of the dado, and then back out against the right shoulder, see Step 2.
,
NOTE, UNPWG ROUTER
•
WHEN SfmNG D£P1'H OF BIT WHEN lI
RAtSE !o1T UNT1l.
+-_
EVeN WITH TOP Of""'~TCH
WOODSMITH
~
USING TffE GAUGE.
Now, whenever you
want to set up to rout dovetails, put the block on the router base and i'!lise the bit until it's even with the top of the notch. FmlNG DOVETAIL JOINTS
How tight should a dovetail joint be? A good fit shouldn't be so loose that you call push the pieces together with your hands. It should take SOme l;gltt tapping to get them together.
around the pins and also in the sockets. I usually use a small rutist'~ brush to do this. Tile problem is that there are a lot of surfaces to COverand the glue can start setting up before you can get the drawer assembled. It's a good idea to have SOmehelp to spread the glue quickly. SANDING THE JOINT SMOOTH
The perfect dovetail joint should fit together tight, flush, and there shouldn't be a lot of excess glue squeeze-out. That's the ideal. But in reality, there may be some finishing work to do on a dovetail joint after assembly. In fact, since I know the joint won't be perfect, I plan tbe fit of the joint so it has to be sanded down exactly smooth. The only question here is: Should the joint be Mel: HAROWOOO cut so the 1)ill$ stick up a little from the BlOCK Ovt~ENnRE surface, or so the cUlis oj lite socke/.$ stick JOINT WHEN TAPPING up a little? PIECESTOGnHER DltAw.. SANDING PINS, ff the joint is cut so the FOONT pins-stick up, you have to sand the ,q/tOl.e However, even with light tapping, it's drawer side to keep it a uniform thickness. best to apply even pressure across the If you only sand down the face of the pins wbole joint to prevent the pins from split- (neal' the joint), the middle section of the ting out. r place a block of hardwood over drawer side will be thick and cause pro». all the pins on the drawer side and then lems when it's time to fit the drawer in the tap until the pin. are seated in the bottom cabinet. of the sockets. SAN'DING ORAWEB J;JNIJS. If the joint is STANLeY HAlttM£Jl. Instead of using a.. cut SO the pins are deep, then you only steel hammer 01' wooden mallet, I've found have to sand the ends of the sockets (the that a Stanley "De8(1Blow" hammer works ends of the drawer from, and back). But nicely for most joint assembly tasks. These this creates another problem, The front hammers are made of black plastic and the and back ru-eusually cut to length to fit the head is filled with oil and shot They Call opening in the cabinet $
How much glue should be applied to a dovetail joint? And whet" should you ]lut it - on the pins or in Ille sockets? TIGHT JOINT. If the joint fits tighUy, you don't need much glue. I usually squirt one dot of yellow glue on the b
However, J usually follow this second method and cut the joint so the pins are about V,," too deep. But 1 take this into consideration when measuring and cutting the drawer front and back to length. Ifthe pins ate set V.," too deep, the length of the drawer front and back will be shortened v's' when both ends are sanded.
23
Sources THE WOOOWOllK£RS' srone, (see address above). Drawer p·ults (6), brass with ceramic rosettes, 3' bore, Order No.
eyes from coming uncurled. • Cut four 'h," x 1%" steel pins from a Vi' steel rod or [rom the unt.hreaded You L
Woodfnlulh kit.) Desk B1dt Hinge.s (1 pair), solid brass, 1V:t long x 2" wide, Order No. 01238. i.Jill S"fYPO>'ls (1 pair), br3SS
6'h" long, 011le1' No. 01205. CllIlst Lock, includes key and escutcheon, Order No. 03304, Carved Hartlw(I()(l Pulls (2), 1%" high, 4%" wide, Chen-y, Order No. B12OO;'Valnut, Order No. B l2oo; Oak, 0111er No. B1204. AnOLhel' option would be to use brass pulls (see photo below): Sl"(W! Puils (2), :r bore, 4%" overall, Order No. Ell2.3.
$l.oo.) Glide Stlil), self-adhering plastic, Vi' wide, sold in 10 ft. lengthij (approx, 13
It. needed). 0111cr No. '16<1.
plated,
DRESSER
You can order the dresser hardware Woodfnnilh (see below), or from:
(I'om
accessories for your router. /\ universal
bushing' set is available from: WOOOCRAI!1' suppx,y
DOVETAIL JIG
We aloe also Om~l·jngkits of 1)lU~Sto build the dovetail jig (~ box below). You can probably find the hardware at a local hardware store for around $15.00, but this price doesn't include the I)l"(l-{;ut plastic template. The template can be made from v,r
CORP.,
41 Atlantic
Ave., P.O. Box 40()0, WObUi'Il, MA 01888; 800-225-1153 (Catalog: Free), Rotder Guili<
8,,,,hing S6t, with universal base plate, Order No. llV 12.
OOVt."l·AIL BITS. The jig is designed to work with • ill' diameter ('/.o" shank) dovetail bit. (Note: The ~" "cfel'S to the widest diameter at the bottom of the bit.) Masonite, see page 18. Since a dovetail bit has to make a full cut If you buy the hardware locally, use the on tile fil'St pass, I'd recommend a twolist in the box below as a shopping list, but flute, carbide-tipped bit. IVe'I'e offeling a there are some things you will have to (10: bit (see box OOIow), 01" one can be pur• \Veld the eyebolts shut to prevent the chased through most tool suppliers,
WOODSMITH KITS HOPE CHEST
on the hope chest, Order Kit #58C, Hope Chest Pattern, st.oo.
WOOflsmilh is offeJing two hardware kits for (he hope chest. One has carved cherry
DRESSER
pulls, the other solid brass pulls. KIT #68A. Hope Chest Kit (Wood Puil$) ($34.95) includes: • (l pair) Solid Cherry Hardwood Pulls, 2'~' x 9%", see photo below. These pulls are hand carved in the Amana Colonies in Iowa,
• (I pair) Solid BI"OSS Hinges, 1 V.' long, Z' open width, \\~tJjscrews. • (1 pair) Lid Supports. one right-hand, one left-hand, bl"OSS plated, with bl'8SS
screws. • (1) Chest Lock, key, strike plate, and keyhole escutcheon. • (1) Full-size Patterns of scrollwork.
Hope Chest Kit (Brass Pulls) (~.95) includes all of the items in Kit #58A, except the pU,lIsare made of Solid Brass, 2%" x 4'/.', see phot:o abQve. PATTERNONLY. If you only want the fllU-si1.epatt.en1S of th~ scl'lllwol'k de.~igns KIT N!l8B.
24
W()()(ismilh is also offering a ki~ of hardware for the dresser. KIT#581>. Dresser Kit (~6.95) includes:
• (6) Solid Brass Drawer Pulls, with 00ramie rosettes, 3" bor e. • ((I) PIastic Buttons (drawer stops). • 15 reet of Glide Strip, sell-adhering; pressure-sensitive plastic, 'I." wide, DOVETAIL JIG
We've also put together two different kits to build the dovetail jig. KIT #58e. Dovetail Jig Parts Kit ($34.95) includes:
Template. plastic, o/i'I" x 4" X IS'/. • (4) Eye Bolts, 0/,01'x 5", lvith eyes welded shut. • (4) Threaded Inserts, 0/,,,' inside dia. • (4) Compression Springs, %" x 2"'. • (4) Steel Pins, ~" x 10/.". • (2) Pan Head Screws, No. 10 x 'Y.('. • (2) Machine Screws, v.{' x 3". • (8) Hex Nuts, '/'1'. • (2) 'II" Wing Nots with washers, • (4) Fh. Macliine Screws, V" x 14". • (4) Fender Washers, 0/0," x 10/,r • (1) Dovetail "Comb"
• (2) Corner Brackol." 2" )( 4"
aluminum with slot and holes.
X
¥tN,
IJ'>8F.Dovetail Jig Parts and Wood Kit ($54.95) includes the parts in Kit lIffiSE plus all of the wood (hard maple) needed to build the jig: • (1 pe.) 1%" x 6" x IS" (Base top). • (2 pes.) 1%" x 1%" x 15" (Bars). • (I pc.) 1%" x 1%" x 16V:." (Oams), • (1 pe.) "y.,' x bW x 2.2" (Base). • (l pe.) "II." x 2'4" x S" (Stops). lOT
TEIIWLA'r£ ONLY. If you want the plas-
tic "comb" dovetail template only. Order Kit #58C, Dovetail Template, $24.95. OOVETAILorr. We're also c)ffeling a double-fluted, carbtde-tlpped 'A' dovetail bit. It's a high quality bit with a 11." shank. O)"d.1"Kit #58H, 'J," Dovetail Bit, $1{;.75. ORDERING
0'
INFORMAnON
To 0111erany the kits, write yonr order and yow' name and address on a piece of paper (or, if available, use the order form on the protective covel' of this issue). Send YOIU" orden and payment, (110 charge cards or phone orders, please) to: Wood.mith Kits
P.O. Box 10350 nes Moines, 1A 50006 Please speeify the kit number on the outside of t.he envelope. Allow 44> weeks for delivery. Postage and handling are free. (Iowa residents add 4% sales tax.) Plio es of these kits ru... good through December 31, 1988.
WOOOSMITH
