S UDE S C L
N I
N A L T I O C U R I N S T
D V D
CREATIVE CREA TIVE TECHNIQUES & DESIGNS FOR MAKING CUSTOM JEWELRY
LISA NIVEN KELLY
CREATOR OF BEADUCATION
lisa niven kelly
S TA M P E D L AD D E R bracelet
I
n this project, it’s essential to use stepped round-nose pliers. Standard round-nose pliers won’t properly turn
in the edges of the strips because of the taper of the jaw. I chose 4mm bicone crystals because I like the way the tapered ends of the beads t into the loops of the stamped strips, stabilizing them.
TECHNIQUES
STAMPING � HAMMERING & TEXTURIZING � OXIDIZING & POLISHING
MATERIALS
TOOLS
FINISHED SIZE
As shown, 7" (18 cm). Note: A 7" (18 cm) bracelet requires 13 stamped metal strips. For a larger bracelet, each additional unit of stamped strip plus bicone, spacer, bicone will add about 7 ⁄ 16" (1.2 cm).
27" (68.5 cm) of sterling silver 26-gauge bezel wire (to make up to 15 strips)
1 two-strand tube slider clasp
Safety Glasses
24" (61 cm) of beading wire
Stamping hammer
Copper sheet metal for practice
4 crimp bead covers
38 star-shaped 4mm or 5mm Bali silver spacers 68 Swarovski crystal 4mm bicone beads
4 crimp beads 36–40 size 15 seed beads to cover the beading wire where the bracelet is attached to the clasp
Bench block Letter/number stamp set and/or design stamps Stepped roundnose pliers with a 2.5–3.5 mm step Chain-nose pliers Flush cutter Crimping pliers Oxidizing solution Pro Polish polishing pads or #0000 steel wool and a polish cloth
3
STAMPED LADDER BRACELET
STEP BY STEP
1 2
Put on your safety glasses. Using flush cutters, cut the bezel wire into 1.75" (4.5 cm) strips.
Decide on designs for the strips. In the bracelet shown, I textured all the pieces using various hammers and design stamps. figure 1
3
Here’s how I textured the strips seen in from left to right:
figure 2
• ball-peen end of a chasing hammer, tapped with medium force • ball-peen end of a chasing hammer, hit very hard to get a more solid dot (that placement was a bit tricky)
figure 1
• spiral design stamp • period stamp or a center punch • rectangle end of a riveting hammer, tapped with medium force
4
Other options for texturing include texture hammers, specialty hammers, and homemade design stamps. Practice these texturing techniques on copper sheet metal first before stamping on sterling silver. figure 2
5
To stamp words on your strips, first write out each word to ensure correct spelling, and count the number of letters. The initial length of each strip is 1.75" (4.5 cm). The rolled-in edges take up ½" (1.3 cm) on either end, leaving about ¾" (2 cm) of stampable area.
6
With a marker, make a mark ½" (1.3 cm) in from each end. Center your word in the space between marks. Determine the middle letter of the word and the middle of the strip. Stamp that letter in the center figure 3
4 STAMPED METAL JEWELRY
and then stamp the letters first to one side and then the other. Keep in mind any design stamps that you want to incorporate. figure 3
7 8
Once all the pieces are stamped, oxidize and polish the strip before rolling in the ends.
Using the 2.5–3.5 mm step of a stepped round nose pliers, grasp the end of the wire and turn a basic loop. figure 4
9
Let the wire come around and then slightly overlap. Don’t push on it too hard when it overlaps or you will get a teardrop shape. Let it lightly come around and overlap on top of itself. figure 5
figure 4
figure 5
tips & tricks
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STAMPED LADDER BRACELET
5
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION
Leather Cuff
MATERIALS & TOOLS
Double-Decker Pendant
Materials Tools
BASIC METALSMITHING TECHNIQUES
Silver Framed Gems Pendant By Kriss Silva
The Crown Jewel By Janice Berkebile
Simply Charming Bracelet
Hammering and Texturing
By Tracy Stanley
Cutting and Sawing
Bold Stamped and Riveted Beads
Hole Punching and Drilling Dapping Riveting Annealing Oxidizing and Polishing
GETTING STARTED STAMPING Safety First Set Up Your Work Space Start Stamping!
PROJECTS
By Kate Richbourg
Crisscross Stamped and Riveted Earrings
PENDANT WITH SNAZZ�IT�UP BAIL
By Lisa Claxton
Pendant with Snazz-it-up Bail By Kate Richbourg
Riveted Collage Pendant By Tracey Stanley
Full Circle Bracelet By Connie Fox
GALLERY RESOURCES
Easy Stamped Pendants
Basic Wirework Techniques
ID-Style Bracelet
Contributors
Stamped Prefabricated Rings
Sources for Supplies Index
Linked Shapes Bracelet Say It On Your Wrist Wrapped Link Bracelet Stamped Ladder Bracelet Stamped and Stacked Ring Textured Metal Pendant
STAMPED AND STACKED RING
6
SIMPLY CHARMING BRACELET
WRAPPED LINK BRACELET
TEXTURED METAL PENDANT
7
I NCL UD E
S
I NS TR U C TI ON A L
D V D DON’T SAY IT�STAMP IT! Create fabulous custom necklaces, beads, charms, bracelets, cuffs, and earrings.
Stamped Metal Jewelry opens with an extensive section on stamping and metalsmithing tools and techniques, all photographed step-by-step. With these skills, readers can begin making inspiring jewelry designs with confidence. Nineteen projects cover a variety of techniques and designs such as creating charms, incorporating stamped links into beaded projects, making stamped links from flat wire and wire-wrapping them together, stamping on blanks and layering them, riveting, texturing metal, oxidizing, and more. And if you’re still hungry for more, the DVD included with this book offers step-by-step stamping and jewelry-making demonstrations by the author.
READERS WILL: Learn multiple metal stamping and texturing techniques with projects incorporating wirework and metalsmithing Explore customizing jewelry designs by stamping with unique words and designs lisa niven kelly is an award-winning wire jewelry artist and a regular contributor to Bead & Button, Art Jewelry, Beadwork, and Step-by-Step Wire Jewelry magazines.
She has been teaching beadwork and wirework nationally for more than 15 years. Lisa is the founder
Discover tips and tricks from successful jewelry artists to get professional results In addition to Lisa’s projects, the book features projects by nationally known jewelry designers Tracy Stanley, Kriss Silva, Lisa Claxton, Kate Richbourg, Janice Berkebile, and Connie Fox. This book and DVD combination offers jewelry artists all the techniques and design inspiration needed to create clever stamped metal jewelry.
of Beaducation.com, a popular source for online step-by-step video jewelrymaking classes, plus wirework and metal stamping tools and supplies.
Paperback, 8½ × 9 128 pages + DVD 160 photos ISBN 978-1-59668-177-4 $24.95 Available July 2010
