best+of+beadwork+10+custom+cool+projects+by+melinda+barta.pdf

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Best of

10 Custom Cool Projects by Melinda Barta

About the Designer

Former editor of Beadwork magazine, Melinda Barta currently enjoys contributing to the magazine as part-time senior editor and loves spending time with the new addition to her family. She is the author of the best-selling books Custom Cool Jewelry (Interweave, 2008) and Hip to Stitch (Interweave, 2005) and coauthor of Mixed Metals (Interweave, 2009). Look for her two newest beadweaving books in 2012 and 2013. See more great beaded components like the ones featured here in Melinda’s Custom Cool column in each issue of Beadwork. Visit www.melindabarta.com.

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1 Diamond Bails 2 Playful Peyote Toggle Clasps 3 Ruffled Beaded Bead Caps 4 Towers of Pearls 5 Double-Up Buttons 6 Pretty Sneaky Snap Clasp 7 Spring Blossoms 8 Spiny Herringbone Spacers 9 Return-to-Sender Resin Focals 10 Triangles & Charms Button Clasps

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PAge 7 PAge 9 PAge 11

PAge 14 PAge 17 PAge 19 PAge 21

Techniques

page 23

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More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com. © 2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. page ii

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PERSONALIZE YOUR JEWELRY COMPONENTS!

custom cool

diamond bails Top off a favorite pendant with a stitched bail. Or, follow the simple thread paths to make a beautiful pair of earrings or create links for a necklace.

TRY THIS! For a quick pair of earrings, make just the front side of a bail following Step 1 and add a loop to accommodate an ear wire.

techniques :: netting :: picot :: square stitch

See p. 23 for helpful technique information.

Design by Melinda Barta. More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com. © 2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. page 1

1) Netted diamond. Work each side of the bail before joining the tips:

Materials

Size 11° Czech seed beads or charlottes (A) Stone or glass 3mm rounds (B) 4 lb braided beading thread 39mm stoneware pendant

Round 1: Use 20" of thread to string 4B,

leaving a 3" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle. Pass through the first B strung (Fig. 1—blue thread). Round 2: String 1A and pass through the next B; repeat around to add a total of 4A. Exit the first A added (Fig. 1—red thread).

Tools

Fig. 3: Adding Round 4 and forming the points

exit the tip of the first Round 4 picot (Fig. 3—red thread). Note: Use tight tension to make the picots form sharp points. Don’t trim the thread.

Repeat entire step to form a second netted diamond, this time using 15" of thread; secure and trim the threads of this second diamond. 2) Finishing. Join the diamonds to

Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1 and 2

form a bail:

Top: Using the working thread of the first

diamond, square-stitch together the tips of the diamonds; repeat the thread path to reinforce (Fig. 4). Weave

Round 3: String 5A and pass through the

next A of Round 2, then string 4A and pass through the next A of Round 2; repeat for a total of 4 nets. Exit the second A added in this round (Fig. 2).

Fig. 4: Joining the top of the bail Fig. 2: Adding Round 3

String 3A, skip the next A of Round 3, and pass through the next 10A of Rounds 2 and 3 to form a picot. String 3A, skip the next A of Round 3, and weave through beads to exit the first bead added in this round (Fig. 3—blue thread). Points: Skip the next A of Round 4 (at the tip of the first picot) and weave through beads to exit the fourth A added in Round 4 (the first A of the second picot). Skip the next A of Round 4 and weave through beads to

Scissors Size 12 beading needle

Finished size: 1 ⁄ 2 × 3 ⁄ 4 " through beads of 1 diamond to exit the bottommost A at the tip of the opposite end. Bottom: String 2 to 3A or enough needed to fill the inside hole of the pendant. String the pendant and pass through the bottommost A of the second diamond. Pass back through the A just added and through the A at the tip of the first diamond (Fig. 5). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. ✦

Fig. 5: Attaching the pendant

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Pendants: Golem Design Studio, www .golemstudio.com. Charlottes: Applegate Lapidary, (209) 267-9882, www.applegate lapidary.com. Dyed orange jade rounds: Legendary Beads, (707) 569-0338, www .legendarybeads.com. Stone rounds and Czech seed beads: Orr’s Trading Co., (303) 722-6466, www.orrs.com. FireLine braided beading thread: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com.

Round 4:

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More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com. © 2011 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. page 2


custom cool

playful peyote toggle clasps Finish your next project with this easily customizable toggle clasp. Not only are the gold collars fun to play with because they slide around the toggle ring, but they also help hold the toggle bar in place when worn.

A rtist ’ s T i p Attach your design to this clasp any number of ways: For beadwoven designs, stitch the ends of your bracelet or necklace directly into the B beads of the ring and bar. For designs strung on beading wire, string 1 crimp tube, enough seed beads to cover the wire, and the ring; pass back through the tube and crimp. For the bar, attach 2 collars 1 bead space apart in Step 3 and attach the beading wire as before, allowing the wire to nestle between the collars.

techniques

:: c ircular and flat peyote stitch



1) Toggle ring. Use circular pey-

Materials

ote stitch to form the toggle ring by stitching two sides off of a central ring and then zipping the sides together along the outside edge:

Use 3' of thread to string 44B. Tie a knot to form a circle. Pass through the first 2 beads strung (Fig. 1—blue thread). Round 3: Work one round of circular peyote stitch with 1B in each stitch (Fig. 1—red thread). Note: Step up for each new round by passing through the first bead added in the current round. Rounds 1 and 2:

Figure 1 Rounds 1–3 Fig. 1: Working

Rounds 4–7: Work 1C in each stitch for

4 rounds (Fig. 2). Note: Work with tight thread tension in Rounds 6 and 7 so the beadwork cups. Weave through beads to exit Round 1. Figure 2

Figure 3

a b

Fig. 3: Zipping Round 10 to Round 7

2) Toggle bar. Use flat peyote stitch

to work the bar half of the clasp:

Use 3' of thread to work a strip of flat peyote 16B wide and 12 rows long. Zip the edges together as before to form a tube. Ends: Weave through beads to exit from an end bead, away from the beadwork. String 1A, 1 drop, and 1A (Fig. 4—blue thread). Pass down through 1B at the opposite side of the opening in the tube. String 1A, pass through the drop, and string 1A. Pass down through 1B adjacent to the first one exited and pass up through the next (Fig. 4—red thread). String 1A, pass through the drop, string 1A, and pass down through the 1B on the opposite side Fig. 4: Embelan end of of the opening in the lishing the toggle bar tube. Repeat the thread paths to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit the other end of the tube and repeat embellishments. Bar:

Figure 2

Fig. 2: Adding Rounds 1–7

Figure 3

3) Gold collars. Embellish the

Rounds 8–10: Work 1C in each stitch for

3 rounds.

a b

Figure 4

Figure 4

ring and bar as desired:

Figure 5

24k gold–electroplated size 15° seed beads for collars (A) Size 15° seed beads for toggle ring (B) Size 11° seed beads for toggle ring and bar (C) Glass 3×4mm drops Nylon or 4 lb braided beading thread in color to match beads

Tools


Finished size: 1"

Fig. 5: Zipping together the ends of the collar Bar: Use 2' of thread and flat peyote

stitch to work a strip 2A wide and long enough to wrap around the bar (about 28 rows). Wrap the strip around the center of the bar and zip it closed. Weave in and out through some of the C of the bar and A of the collar to secure the collar. Secure the thread and trim. F RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: One-G nylon and FireLine braided beading threads and beads: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com.

Use 2' of thread and flat peyote stitch to work a strip 2A or 4A wide and long enough to wrap around the ring (about 26 rows). Pass one end of the strip through the ring and zip it closed (Fig. 5). Secure the thread and trim.

Ring:

Zipping: Fold the sides up toward each

other so that Round 7 meets Round 10. Zip the edges together (Fig. 3). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread trim. Figure and 5


(ring)


custom cool

ruffled beaded bead caps

Spice up any project with these sweet beaded bead caps. One becomes a delightful necklace focal, two make a great pair of earrings, three or more become a fun little charm bracelet.

techniques

:: c ircular peyote stitch :: picot



1) Base. Use circular peyote stitch to

form the cupped base of the bead cap:

Rounds 1 and 2: Use 2" of thread to string

10B. Tie a knot to form a circle. Pass through the first bead strung. Rounds 3 and 4: Work circular peyote stitch with 2A in each stitch. Note: Step up for each new round by passing through the first bead(s) added in the current round. Round 5: Work 2B in each stitch. Rounds 6 and 7: Work 3A in each stitch. Picots: Pass through the next 2A. String 3A and pass through the last A exited

Fig. 1: Rounds 1–7 with picots

to form a picot. Pass through the next 3A of Rounds 6 and 7, string 3A, and pass through the last A exited to form a second picot. Repeat around to add a total of 10 picots (Fig. 1). 2) Finishing. Weave through beads

to exit Round 1 and add picot embellishments:

Top: Work 1A in each stitch. String 3A and

pass through the last A exited to form a picot. Pass through the next 2 beads to exit the next A. Repeat the round to add a total of 5 picots (Fig. 2). F

Materials

Size 14° or 15° seed beads or charlottes (A) Size 11° seed beads (B) Nylon or braided beading thread in color to match beads

Tools

Size 10 or 12 beading needles Scissors

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Rondelles: Raven’s Journey International, www.theravenstore.com, and Bokamo Designs, (913) 648-4296, www.bokamo designs.com. Pearls: Talisman Associates, (800) 229-7890, www.talismanbeads.com. Head pins: Rishashay, (800) 517-3311, www .rishashay.com. Beading wire, crimp tubes and covers, and Nymo nylon and FireLine braided beading threads: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Seed beads: Jane’s Fiber & Beads, (888) 497-2665, www.janesfiberand beads.com, and Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com. Clasp: Nina Designs, (800) 336-6462, www .ninadesigns.com.

Fig. 2: Embellishing the top of the cap

TRY THIS! To make this quick-and-easy bracelet, you’ll need basic wireworking tools (wire cutters, round-nose pliers, chain- or flatnose pliers, and crimping pliers), about 9" of .018 beading wire, two 2mm crimp tubes, two 3mm crimp covers (optional), a clasp (lobster or spring-ring work well), small (about 3.5–4mm) and large (about 8mm) round or rondelle accent beads to pair with the beaded bead caps, 2" ball-end head pins and a few size 15° seed beads. To make dangles, use 1 head pin to string 1 large accent bead, 1 beaded bead cap (wide end first), 1 seed bead, and 1 small accent bead; form a wrapped loop. Use the wire to string one 2mm crimp tube, 6 seed beads, the clasp, and 6 seed beads; pass back through the tube and crimp. String accent beads, along with the dangles, for the desired length of the bracelet. Finish the end by stringing another 2mm crimp tube and about 24 seed beads; pass back through the tube and crimp. For a professional look, cover the tubes with 3mm crimp covers.



custom cool

tower of pearls After just about twenty minutes of beading, you’ll have a sweet little component to use in a bracelet, as a bead cap for an earring, or even as the top of an elegant ring.

Use the components as bead caps for a quick pair of earrings.

TRY THIS! Mix up your materials! If you’d like to use beads other than the 4×3mm pearls called for in the materials list, here are a few variations. • Using 4mm crystal bicones (shown here in dorado gold 2X) results in a slightly higher component, with a tip that is more pronounced because of the angles of the bicones. techniques

• If you don’t have 4×3mm freshwater pearls on hand, 4mm round crystal pearls also work well.


• For an airy component with more negative space between beads, try 3mm fire-polished rounds (shown at right in silver).

:: f ringe :: picot


1) Component. Create a compo-

Materials

nent using fringe and picots:

Size 11° seed beads (A) 12 (per component) 4×3mm pearls (B) 6 lb braided beading thread

Round 1: Use 2' of thread to string 4A,

leaving a 3" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle. Pass through the first A strung (Fig. 1—blue thread). Round 2: String 1B and 1A; pass back through the B just strung and through the next A of Round 1. Repeat around for a total of 4 fringes. Exit the first A added in this round (Fig. 1—red thread). Note: To keep the fringes taut, pinch the A at the tip of the first fringe to pull the thread tight and repeat around to continue tightening Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1 and 2 the thread. Each pearl will be centered between two A of Round 1. Round 3: String 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass back through the B just strung, string 1A, and pass through the A at the tip of the next Round 2 fringe. Repeat around for a total of 4 fringes. Exit from the second A added in this round, at the tip of the first fringe (Fig. 2). Tighten the thread as before.

Tools


Finished size: 3 ⁄ 4 " (comp onen t) Fig. 3: Stitching Round 4

lowing A; repeat once. Pass through the nearest B and A. Repeat from * three times to add a total of 8 picots (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4: Adding picots in Round 5

Note: Repeat the thread path at least once using tight tension, especially if you want to use the component in a bracelet. This will help the component maintain its round shape. Secure the threads and trim. 2) Finishing options. Make more

components and, if desired, use them in a bracelet or earring design:

Bracelet: Repeat Step 1 to make 5 or more

Fig. 2: Adding Round 3 Round 4: String 2A, 1B, and 2A; pass

through the A at the tip of the nearest fringe of Round 3. Repeat around to add a total of 16A and 4B. Exit from the third A added in this round (Fig. 3). Round 5 (picots): *String 3A, skip the next A of Round 4, and pass through the fol-

components, but do not trim the working thread. Use the remaining thread of 1 component to exit the tip of a picot in Round 5 and string one 8mm crystal pearl (or other accent bead). Pass through the tip of a picot on another component, pass back through the pearl, and through the last A exited on the first component. Repeat the thread path twice to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. Link together the

remaining components in the same manner. Attach the chain of components to a clasp using seed-bead loops. Earrings: Repeat Step 1 to make 2 components. Use one 2" head pin to string one 9×18mm teardrop (or other accent bead), 1 component (wide end first), and 1A. Form a wrapped loop that attaches to 1 ear wire. Repeat entire section for a second earring. ✦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Red and purple/magenta pearls: Austin GemAndBead.com. Dark green iris pearls: Gardens of Glass, (541) 488-0466, www .leahfairbanks.com. Lime pearls: Lisa Kan, www.lisakan.com. FireLine braided beading thread, seed beads, and Swarovski crystal pearls and bicones: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www .beyondbeadery.com. Clasp: Jess Imports, (415) 626-1433, www.jessimports.com. Head pins, ear wires, and similar firepolished rounds: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Purple Lucite drops: Chelsea’s Beads, (847) 433-3451, www.chelseas beads.com.

A rtist ’ s T i p s • Some freshwater pearls have small holes. If needed, use a bead reamer to enlarge the holes before you begin the project or eliminate the pearls with small holes. • If you have trouble keeping tight tension, wax or condition your thread before you begin stitching.



custom cool

double-up buttons Use these simple two-layer peyote-stitched medallions for a button-and-loop clasp, as tiny beaded beads on a bracelet, or in a dimensional pair of casual earrings.

A rtist ’ s T i p Gently rotate and squeeze the outside edges of the disc as you zip the sides together.

techniques

:: c ircular peyote stitch :: picot



1) Side 1. Use circular peyote stitch

to form the first half of the disc:

Round 1: Use 18" of thread to string 5 size

11° seed beads, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the first 3 beads strung to form a circle (Fig. 1—blue thread). Round 2: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch. Step up for the next round by passing through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 1—red thread).

Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1 and 2 Round 3: Work 2 size 11°s in each stitch.

Step up through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 2—blue thread). Round 4: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch, splitting the pairs of the previous round. Step up through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 2—red thread).

Note: To create the star motif shown in the green-and-orange disc, work a new color of size 11° in every other stitch, making sure the single size 11° that splits the pair of the previous round is the same color used in Rounds 1–3. Use the alternate color in each of the following rounds. Round 5: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch. Step up through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 3—green thread). Round 6: Work 2 size 11°s in each stitch. Step up through the first 2 beads added in this round (Fig. 3—blue thread). Round 7: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch, treating the 2 beads added in each stitch in the previous round as 1 bead (Fig. 3—red thread). Secure the thread and trim; set aside.

Materials

Size 15° seed beads Size 11° seed beads Nylon beading thread in color to match beads

Tools


Finished size: 3 ⁄ 4 " Disc: Repeat Step 1, omitting Round 7;

don’t trim the thread. Zip: Zip Round 7 of Disc 1 to Round 6 of

Disc 2 (Fig. 4). Repeat thread path to secure. Exit from a bead of Round 7.

Fig. 4: Zipping the sides together Embellishment: String 4 size 15°s or 3 size

Fig. 3: Stitching Rounds 5–7

2) Side 2. Form the second half of

Fig. 2: Adding Rounds 3 and 4

11°s and pass through the next bead of Round 7. Repeat around to embellish the outside edge of the disc (Fig. 5). Secure all threads and trim. ✦

the disc:

TRY THIs! • Instead of embellishing the outside edge of the disc in Step 2, embellish the top with drops and sequins by stitching through the size 11°s on one side.

Embellishing the front.

Fig. 5: Embellishing the outside edge

• If using the disc as a clasp, attach your necklace or bracelet strap by passing through the hole in the center of Round 1, string 1 drop or cluster of seed beads, and pass back through the center of Round 1 into the strap. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce.

Attaching the disc.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Grass green and peach seed beads: Stony Creek Bead and Gallery, (734) 544-0904, www.stonycreekbead.blogspot.com. One G nylon beading thread and all other seed beads: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com.



custom cool

pretty sneaky snap clasp

Say good-bye to clasps that distract from your beautiful beadwork.

A rtist ’ s T i p For a smaller clasp, use one 10mm (size 1) snap set and size 15° charlottes in place of the size 11° seed beads.

techniques

:: r ight-angle weave :: b ead embroidery



1) Pendant Bezel. Center the oval

bead on the felt and trace around its outside edge; set aside.

Materials

Round 1: Tie a double knot at the end of

24" of thread and bring the needle up ⁄ " outside of the traced oval. String 1 teardrop and slide it down to the felt. Hold the bead in place as you pass the needle to the back, inserting it perpendicular to the fabric at the edge of the bead so that the stitch is the same width as the bead (Fig. 1). Pass up 1 16

Fig. 3: Rounds 3 and 4, adding more charlottes

2) Pendant snap. Stitch the male half of the snap to the center back of the felt, securing all four holes of the snap. Center the oval bead on the front of the felt and stitch it in place, making several passes to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. Edge: Carefully trim close to the beads to

Fig. 1: Round 1, attaching the teardrops

through about 1⁄16 " away from the previous stitch (the size of the charlotte bead that will later fill this space). String 1 teardrop and repeat stitching as before, adding beads around the oval. Note: If a bead moves back and forth, the stitch is too long; if the bead cannot lie flat, the stitch is too short. Round 2: Bring the needle up and pass through 1 teardrop. String 1 charlotte and pass through the next teardrop. Repeat around to add 1 charlotte between each teardrop (Fig. 2). Pass through all beads again to reinforce.

Size 15° charlottes Size 11° seed beads About 18 pressed-glass 4×6mm teardrops 1 flat 17×24mm oval bead 1 metal 12mm (size 3) sew-on snap set Nylon beading thread in color to match beads 2 × 2" square of felt Liquid seam sealant/clear fabric adhesive (optional)

Tools

Size 12 or 13 beading needle Fabric-marking pen or pencil Scissors

remove the excess felt. If you accidentally cut a stitch, use needle and thread to pass through several beads near the cut stitch, following the same thread paths as before and angling the needle toward the center. If desired, lightly coat the felt edges and threads with seam sealant. 3) Beaded snap. Create a grid of

right-angle weave to conceal the other half of the clasp:

Fig. 5: Adding Units 4 and 5

Units 1–3: Use 3' of thread to string 8 size

Embellishment:

11°s, leaving a 10" tail. Tie the beads into a circle and pass through the first 4 beads. String 6 size 11°s; pass through the last 2 beads passed through and the first 4 just strung; repeat once to complete a chain of two-drop right-angle weave 3 units long, keeping tension tight and treating 2 beads as if they were one (Fig. 4).

String 2 charlottes and pass back through the opposite side of the current unit. Repeat to add 2 charlottes in the center of each unit (Fig. 6).

Fig. 2: Round 2, adding charlottes between the teardrops

Fig. 6: Embellishing the units

Fig. 4: Units 1–3

Rounds 3 and 4: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2,

using all charlottes and stitching a line of beads 1⁄16 – 1⁄8 " outside of the teardrops (Fig. 3).

Snap: Weave through beads to exit the Units 4 and 5: Weave through beads to

add units to the top and bottom of Unit 2; exit from the bottom of the bottom unit (Fig. 5).

outside edge of an outer unit. Pass through one hole of the remaining half of the snap and back through the last 2 beads exited. Pass through the same


The beaded-snap half of the clasp

Make accessorizing a snap! Donning a bracelet without a second pair of hands can be a more-than-challenging task if it wasn’t finished with a snap. Here you’ll make a rightangle-weave grid that attaches your bracelet strap to one half of a snap; the other half of the snap is hidden behind a bead-embroidered pendant. The pendant-snap half of the clasp.

hole of the snap and through the beads again (Fig. 7). Repeat thread path several times to reinforce. Repeat to attach each of the outer units to each hole of the snap.

TRY THIS! RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Teardrops: Raven’s Journey International, www.theravenstore.com. Russian handpainted onyx flat oval bead: Global Curiosity, (877) 495-3872, www.rucurio .com. Gold charlottes: Orr’s Trading Co., (303) 722-6466, www.orrs.com. Teal luster and pale purple seed beads: Luna’s Beads and Glass, (970) 668-8001, www .lunasbeads.com. Fray Check liquid seam sealant, felt, and Dritz snaps: Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft, (888) 739-4120, www .joann.com. Apatite rondelles: SI Gems and Beads, (917) 478-6471.

Fig. 7: Attaching the grid to the snap

4) Finishing. Continue working

the strap of your choice off the outside edge of an outer unit. Stitch the other end of the strap to the felt on the back of the pendant near one side of the snap. Secure and trim all thread tails. F

more custom cool Find more beadembroidered pendants and other inspiring ideas formaking your jewelry unique in Melinda Barta’s book, Custom Cool Jewelry: Create 200+ Personalized Pendants, Charms, and Clasps (Interweave, 2008). Visit: interweavestore.com/Beading/ Books/Custom-Cool-Jewelry.html

For bolder embellishment, replace the charlottes used in Step 3 with small stone or glass rounds (apatite 2×3mm faceted rondelles were used here).

When closed, one side (usually the male side) of the snap will be flatter than the other. Instead of stitching this side to the back of a pendant, embellish it following Step 3 using only 4 size 11° seed beads in each unit and omitting the charlottes. The result is a clean-looking, comfortable-to-wear, affordable closure.



custom cool

spring blossoms

l

i a t de

Charm, earring, pin, pendant, or clasp—these sweet flowerand-leaf components are remarkably versatile.

techniques

:: c ircular and flat peyote stitch :: r ight-angle weave :: picot



1) Flower. Working with tight ten-

Materials

sion so the beadwork cups, use circular peyote stitch, right-angle weave, and picots to form a flower:

Size 14° seed beads for flower (A) Size 14° seed beads for leaf (B) 4×3mm potato pearls Curved floral 38×12mm brass connectors (optional) Nylon beading thread in color to match beads Thread conditioner

Round 1: Use 18" of conditioned thread to

string 3A. Pass through the first bead strung. Note: Beads are colored in illustrations for clarity; use the same color of A for the entire flower. Round 2: Work 1A in each stitch using peyote stitch. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round. Round 3: Work 2A in each stitch using peyote stitch (Fig. 1).

Tools Fig. 3: Working right-angle weave Round 6: String 3A and pass through the

top A of the next unit in Round 5 to form a picot; repeat around for a total of 6 picots (Fig. 4). Weave through beads to exit from Round 4 on the back of the cupped beadwork.

Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1–3 Round 4: Work 1A in each stitch using

peyote stitch, splitting the pairs of the previous round (Fig. 2).


Finished size: 3 ⁄ 8 × 5 ⁄ 8 " (one flower with leaf)

Row 5 (leaf top): Work 2 stitches with 1B

in each stitch. Weave through beads to exit the first bead of Row 4. Row 6 (leaf bottom): Work 1 stitch with 1B. Weave through beads to exit the first bead of Row 5. Row 7 (leaf top): Work 1 stitch with 1B (Fig. 6). Weave through beads to exit the last A exited in Round 4 and several beads of the flower to exit 1A of Round 1 toward the center of the flower.

Fig. 4: Adding picots

7 5 3 5 3 2 2 1 4 4 6

2) Leaf. Working with tight tension

Fig. 2: Adding 1A between each bead of Round 3

so the beadwork cups, use flat peyote stitch to form a small leaf: Rows 1 and 2: String 5B.

Round 5: String 3A; pass through the last A

exited and the first A just added to create the first right-angle-weave unit. String 2A; pass back through the next A of Round 4 and pass through the side A of the previous unit, the 2A just added, and the next A of Round 4. String 2A, pass through the side A of the previous unit, the last A exited in Round 4, and the first A just added. Repeat around to add a total of 5 units. To form the last unit, string 1A, pass through the side A of the first unit, back through the next A of Round 4, and through the side A of the previous unit and the A just added (Fig. 3).

Work 2 stitches with 1B in each. String 1B and pass through the last A exited in the flower’s Round 4 and the first B of Row 1. Row 4 (leaf bottom and tip): Work 2 stitches with 1B in each stitch. String 1B and pass through the first B of Row 3 (Fig. 5). Row 3 (leaf top):

Fig. 6: Finishing the leaf

3) Finishing. Add 1 pearl to the

center of 1 flower and connect it to 2 brass links (or finish as desired):

Pearl: String 1 pearl and 1A; pass back

3 3 3 2 2 1 1 1 4 4

Fig. 5: Working Rows 1–4 and the tip of the leaf

through the pearl and 1A of Round 1 or Round 3. Repeat thread path several times to secure and center the pearl inside the flower. Connectors: Weave through beads to exit 1A of Round 2. String one end of 1 connector (front to back) and 1A.


Pass back through the connector and through the last A exited in Round 2. Repeat thread path several times to secure, but do not use tension that is too tight as it may prevent the connector from lying flat when worn. Weave through beads to exit 1A of Round 2 on the opposite side of the flower and repeat as before using a second connector. Continue adding pearls and joining connectors in the same manner until the desired necklace length is achieved (the sample shown uses 11 connectors to form a 17" necklace). Clasp: Use 8" of conditioned thread to string 34A, pass through the free end of 1 final connector, and pass back

TRY THIS! Dress up and customize brass findings by adding color with Gilders Paste: Use a paintbrush to apply the color(s) of your choice (Patina and German Silver were used here) and wipe away any excess paste with a soft cloth. Allow 12 hours for the paste to completely dry and set. Clean your paintbrush with mineral spirits or, for easy cleanup, use an inexpensive brush and simply discard it after use.

through the seventh-to-last bead strung to form a small loop around the connector. Pass through the first 27 beads strung to form the clasp loop. Repeat thread path several times; secure the thread and trim. Connect a final flower to the free end of the other final connector and, to wear, slip the clasp loop over the flower. F RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: One-G nylon beading thread and seed beads: Jane’s Fiber & Beads, (423) 639-7919, www.janesfiberandbeads.com. Whispering Flower brass connectors and Gilders Paste: Kabela Design, www.kabeladesign.com. Pearls: AustinGemAndBead.com.



custom cool

spiny herringbone spacers

The simple addition of embellishment beads between columns of herringbone stitch makes for quick-and-easy beaded spacers that pair perfectly with 14mm rounds.

T R y this ! To make these fast-andfashionable earrings, you’ll need basic wireworking tools (wire cutters, round-nose pliers, and chain- or flat-nose pliers), 2 ballend 2" head pins, 1 pair of ear wires, two 11×18mm vertically drilled teardrops, and two 4mm rounds. To create a bead cap, follow the instructions for the spacers but omit Step 3; repeat for a second cap.

techniques

:: ladder stitch :: t ubular herringbone stitch


To assemble the earrings, use 1 head pin to string 1 teardrop (bottom to top), 1 bead cap (wide end first), and 1 round; form a wrapped loop that attaches to 1 ear wire. Repeat for a second earring.


artist ’ s ti p s • Mix matte and shiny seed beads for rich visual texture.

Step up for the next round by passing through the first bead of Round 1 and the first bead of this round (Fig. 4).

• The spacers fit best when strung snug up against 14mm rounds.

Materials

Size 14° or 15° seed beads or charlottes (A) Size 11° seed beads (B) 1.8mm cubes Nylon or braided beading thread in color to match beads

Tools

1) Base. Use ladder stitch to work

the center and then add Round 1 beads for each side of the spacer:

Ladder center: Use 3' of thread to work a

Fig. 4: Stepping up for the next round Round 3: Repeat Round 2, stringing 2A

(instead of 1A) between each herringbone stitch (Fig. 5). Step up as before.

strip of ladder stitch 12B long (Fig. 1). Stitch the first and last beads together to form a circle. Exit the top of 1B.

Fig. 1: Working the ladder-stitch center Round 1: String 2B; pass down through

the next center B. String 2B; pass up through the first center B exited. Pass down through the next center B and up through the following center B. Repeat around the center in the established pattern (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2: Adding Round 1 to the center

Note: The beads just added complete Round 1 for both sides of the spacer. Exit the top of one Round 1 bead.

Fig. 5: Working Round 3 Round 4: Repeat Round 2, stringing 3A

(instead of 1A) between each herringbone stitch. Step up as before. Round 5: Repeat Round 2, stringing 1A, 1 cube, and 1A (instead of just 1A as before) between each herringbone stitch. Step up as before. Round 6: String 1A; pass through the next B of Round 5. Weave through beads to exit the following B of Round 5. Repeat around to add 1A at the tip of each herringbone column (Fig. 6). Weave through beads to exit a B of Round 2 on the other side of the center.

Size 10 or 12 beading needles Scissors

Finished size: 3 ⁄4 × 5⁄8 "

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Head pins, ear wires, and Swarovski 14mm pearls and crystal 4mm rounds: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Charlottes and matte red seed beads: Orr’s Trading Co., (303) 722-6466, www .orrs.com. Size 14° seed beads: Jane’s Fiber & Beads, (888) 497-2665, www .janesfiberandbeads.com. Cubes, One-G nylon beading thread, and all other seed beads: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com. Swarovski crystal teardrops: Trinkets by T Vintage Beads, [email protected], www .trinketsbyt.com.

2) Side one. Working off one set of

Round 1 beads, complete one side of the spacer with herringbone stitch: String 2B; pass down through the next bead of Round 1 to work a herringbone stitch. To work an increase, string 1A and pass up through the following bead of Round 1. Repeat around (Fig. 3).

Round 2:

Fig. 6: Working Round 6

3) Side two. Turn the work and

repeat Step 2. Secure the thread and trim. F

Fig. 3: Working Round 2 with embellishments between the herringbone columns



custom cool

return-to-sender resin focals Just a small amount of easy-to-mix resin atop a collage of postage stamps (or any image of your choice) and barely three grams of seed beads go a long way. The result is an extremely affordable and totally customizable bead-encrusted cabochon that is sure to add a signature touch to your jewelry designs.

T R y this ! In a hurry? Create your collage in a pendant bezel setting and omit the beaded bezel. Don’t stop at paper when collaging: trim the hanging loop off of a charm (like the owl used here) and adhere it to your collage using white craft glue before sealing with resin. Just make sure the charm isn’t taller than the bezel.

techniques

:: right-angle weave :: peyote stitch :: f ringe


If you have trouble finding settings for cabochons, buy pendant bezel settings, trim off the metal hanger using wire cutters, and smooth with superfine 400-grit sandpaper.


1) Collage. Use craft glue to adhere

stamps to the background paper, layering them as desired. Allow to dry. Center the bezel setting on top of the collage and trace around it. Trim the collage 1⁄16–1⁄8" inside the pencil line. Use the paintbrush and gel medium to coat the collage several times, allowing the gel medium to dry between coats. Use a small amount of glue to adhere the collage to the inside of the bezel setting.

2) Resin. Working in a well-ventilated area, mix the resin according to manufacturer’s directions. Place the bezel setting on the work surface (make sure the surface is level) and carefully pour the resin over the collage; allow to cure for about 3 days. 3) Beaded bezel. Surround your custom cabochon using seed beads, then embellish it with rondelles or lentils: Rounds 1–3: Use 6' of thread and A to

work a strip of right-angle weave 3 units high and 32 units long (or 1 unit shy of fitting around the cabochon). Connect the ends of the strip to form a ring: String 1A; pass through the end bead of the first unit in Round 3. String 1A; pass through the end bead of the last unit in Round 3. Continue, joining the end beads of Rounds 2 and 1 (Fig. 1).

Fringe: Weave through beads to exit from

a vertical bead shared by Rounds 1 and 2. String 1 rondelle (or lentil) and 1 seed bead; pass back through the rondelle (or lentil) and the next vertical bead (Fig. 2). Repeat around the bezel, keeping the thread tight. Fig. 2: Adding fringe

Note: If the fringe tends to loosen as you work, occasionally pass the needle under a thread in the right-angleweave rounds and tie a knot. Repeat the thread path to secure the beads. 4) Bail. Weave through beads to

exit from a vertical bead shared by Rounds 2 and 3 at the top of the cabochon. Peyote-stitch the bail:

Row 1: String 1A and pass through the

next vertical bead; repeat (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3: Working Row 1 of the bail

Rows 2–23: Work 22 rows of 4-bead-wide

peyote stitch.

Fig. 1: Joining the strip into a circle Round 4: String 1A (or 1B for contrast);

pass through the next A in the previous round. Repeat around; pull the thread tight so the beadwork cups. Round 5 (back): Weave through beads to exit a Round 3 edge bead. Insert the cabochon facedown in the ring of seed beads. Repeat Round 4.

Materials

Size 11º Czech seed beads (A and B) About 34 faceted pressed-glass 5×3mm rondelles or 6×2mm pressed-glass lentils Nylon beading thread in color to match beads 1 metal 30mm round bezel cabochon setting 1½" square of colored scrapbook paper for background Assorted stamps Clear 2-part ICE Resin kit with disposable measuring cups and wooden mixing sticks Work surface (small piece of cardboard covered with wax paper) Clear gel medium or Mod Podge Acid-free white craft glue

Tools

Size 12 beading needle Small paintbrush Pencil Scissors

Finished size: 1 5 ⁄ 8 × 2" Embellishment: Weave through beads,

following the previously established thread path and stringing 1B at the end of each row. Finishing: Zip together Rows 23 and 1. F RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads: Orr’s Trading Co., (303) 722-6466, www .orrs.com. Rondelles: Bokamo Designs, (913) 648-4296, www.bokamodesigns.com. Lentils and Nymo nylon beading thread: Fusion Beads.com, (888) 781-3559. Cabochon bezel settings: Rio Grande, (800) 545-6566, www .riogrande.com. Pendant bezel settings, charms, and ICE Resin kit (includes mixing cups and sticks): Ornamentea, (919) 834-6260, www.ornamentea.com.

A rtist ’ s T i p s • Having trouble pouring the resin? Cut the tip of a plastic straw at a 30º angle and use the tip as a scoop. If you happen to drizzle too much epoxy on the bezel, quickly use a toothpick to drag or push the bezel to a different area on the work surface, allowing the excess to run off the top edge. • Bubbles are often hard to avoid. If you see one, pop it with a pin, needle, or toothpick. • For a nice dome, the manufacturer suggests you fill the bezel setting to almost full, allow to dry overnight, mix more resin, and top off the bezel.



custom cool

triangles & charms button clasps

Units of triangle weave form a flowerlike button that’s perfect for a bracelet clasp. Use the method here to attach the button with a charm to a band of peyote stitch (made with a buttonhole to easily accommodate the stitched button), and you’ll find the charm cleverly sandwiched between the layers of beadwork. T R y this !

techniques

:: triangle weave :: peyote stitch


For a touch of color and sparkle, work one more row of peyote stitch on each side of the band using metallic size 11° hex beads. The low profile of the hex beads also smooths the sides of the band in case you don’t like the jagged look caused by the first and last rows.


1) Button. Use triangle weave to create the button half of the clasp, working with tight tension to cause the beadwork to cup:

Rows 3–5: Work 1B in each stitch. Row 6: Work 1B in each stitch until the

fifth Row 5 bead from the end (Fig. 5). This is the turnaround point.

Unit 1: String {1 pearl and 1A} three

times. Tie a square knot to form a tight circle. Pass through the first 3 beads strung. Unit 2: String {1A and 1 pearl} twice. String 1A and pass through the last bead exited in the previous unit and the first 2 beads just added (Fig. 1). Unit 3: String {1A and 1 pearl} Fig. 1: Units 1 and 2 of triangle weave twice. String 1A and pass through the last bead exited in the previous unit and the first 4 beads just added (Fig. 2).

Tools

Fig. 5: Stopping short of the end in Row 6


Row 7: Work 1B in each stitch. Row 8: Work 1B in each stitch, making the

turnaround as you did in Row 6 (Fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Working Rows 7 and 8 Rows 9–19: Work 1B in each stitch. Row 20: Work 1B in each stitch. At the end of

the row, string 8B.

Fig. 2: Working Unit 3

Unit 4: Repeat

Unit 2 (Fig. 3). Unit 5: String 1A,

2) Band. Use peyote stitch to create a

bracelet band with a hole to accommodate the button:

Rows 1 and 2: Use 4' of thread to string an

even number of B equal to the size of your wrist plus 1½".

13 rows long. Zip the end to the beads added at the end of Row 20 to complete the buttonhole in the band (Fig. 8b). Weave through all end beads again to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. 3) Finishing. Attach the button and

across the 8B just added and continue across the row (Fig. 7 and Fig. 8a). Secure the thread and trim.

button

Finished size: 5 ⁄ 8 " (BU TTON)

Rows 21–23: Work 1B in each stitch

1 pearl, and 1A. Pass back through the nearest pearl Fig. 3: Adding Unit 4 of Unit 1. String 1A and pass through the nearest pearl of Unit 4 (Fig. 4). Secure the thread and trim. Set the button Fig. 4: Completing the aside.

Materials

Size 15° seed beads for button (A) Size 11° seed beads for band (B) 11 (per button) 4mm crystal pearls 1 metal or plastic 12–20mm charm Nylon or 6 lb braided beading thread in color to match beads

Fig. 7: Adding beads for the top edge of the band

a b

Fig. 8: Working the end of the band

charm to the band: Start 16" of thread that exits from the center of the nonbuttonhole end of the band, 5 beads from the end. String the charm and 2B. Pass through the center of the back of the button (the front of the button is the concave side) and string 1 pearl and 1A; pass back through the pearl, button center, 2B, and the last band bead exited. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. To wear, pass the button only through the buttonhole. Note: The base of the charm is concealed by the overlapping ends of the band. F RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystal pearls: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. One-G nylon and FireLine braided beading threads and beads: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www .beyondbeadery.com. Charms: Gail Crosman Moore, www.gailcrosmanmoore .com, and The Beadin’ Path, (877) 922-3237, www.beadinpath.com.

End: Start

16" of thread that exits away from the beadwork through the third Row 5 bead from the end. Work 2 stitches with 1B in each. Continue working back and forth with 1B in each stitch to create a strip 4B wide and


techniques Right-Angle Weave (Single Needle)

Right-Angle Weave (Double Needle)

BEAD EMBROIDERY

String 4 beads and pass through them again to form the first unit. For the rest of the row, string 3 beads, pass through the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the first two just strung; the thread path will resemble a figure-eight, alternating directions with each unit. To begin the next row, pass through the last 3 beads strung to exit the side of the last unit. String 3 beads, pass through the last bead passed through, and the first bead just strung. *String 2 beads, pass through the next edge bead of the previous row, the last bead passed through in the previous unit, and the last 2 beads just strung. Pass through the next edge bead of the previous row, string 2 beads, pass through the last bead of the previous unit, the edge bead just passed through, and the first bead just strung. Repeat from * to complete the row then begin a new row as before.

Using one needle on each end of the thread, string 3 beads to the center of the thread.*Use one needle to string 1 bead, then pass the other needle back through it. String 1 bead on each needle, then repeat from * to form a chain of right-angle units (A). To turn at the end of the row, use the left needle to string 3 beads, then cross the right needle back through the last bead strung (B). Use the right needle to string 3 beads, then cross the left needle back through the last bead strung (C). To continue the row, use the right needle to string 2 beads; pass the left needle through the next bead on the previous row and back through the last bead strung (D).

For single stitch embroidery, begin by passing the needle through the fabric, from wrong side to right side, at the place where the first bead is to go. String a bead and pass the needle back through the fabric right next to the bead. Bring the needle back through the fabric where the next bead is to go, thread one bead and go back down through the fabric. Continue. Use bugle beads between 2 seed beads to protect the thread from the sharp edges on bugle beads and single-stitch as one bead.

Start

For backstitch embroidery, begin by passing through the fabric, from wrong side to right side. String 4 beads. Lay the beads against the fabric and pass down through it just past the fourth bead. Pass up through the fabric between the second and third beads and pass through the last two beads just strung. String 4 beads and repeat.

B

A

D

L a d d er S titc h C

Using two needles, one threaded on each end of the thread, pass one needle through one or more beads from left to right and pass the other needle through the same beads from right to left. Continue adding beads by crisscrossing both needles through one bead at a time. Use this stitch to make strings of beads or as the foundation for brick stitch.

F ringe

Exit from your foundation row of beads or fabric. String a length of beads plu s 1 b ea d . S kippin g the last bead, pass back through all the beads just strung to create a fringe leg. Pass back into the foundation row or fabric.

N etting ( single t h rea d )

Begin by stringing a base row of 13 beads. String 5 beads and go back through the fifth bead from the end of the base row. String another 5 beads, skip 3 beads of the base row, and go back through the next; repeat to the end of the row. To turn, pass back through the last 3 beads (one leg of the last net). String 5 beads, pass back through the center bead of the next net and continue.

For a single-needle ladder, string 2 beads and pass through them again. String 1 bead. Pass through the last stitched bead and the one just strung. Repeat, adding one bead at a time and working in a figure-eight pattern.


techniques peyote stitc h

Herringbone S titc h

One-drop flat peyote stitch begins by stringing an even number of beads to create the first two rows. Begin the third row by stringing 1 bead and passing back through the second-to-last bead of the previous row. String another bead and pass back through the fourth-to-last bead of the previous row. Continue adding 1 bead at a time, passing over every other bead of the previous row.

Two-drop flat peyote stitch is worked the same as above, but with 2 beads at a time instead of 1.

Make a mid-project peyote-stitch increase by working a two-drop over a one-drop in one row. In the next row, work a one-drop peyote stitch between the two-drop. For a smooth increase, use very narrow beads for both the two-drop and the one-drop between.

To make a mid-project peyote-stitch decrease, simply pass the thread through 2 beads without adding a bead in the “gap.” In the next row, work a regular one-drop peyote stitch over the decrease. Keep tension taut to avoid holes. P icot

To make a picot, string three (A) or five (B) beads and weave into the next high bead. This sequence is woven into the gaps of edge beading to create a lacey effect and is sometimes used to transition to decreasing stitches. A

B

For circular peyote stitch, string 3 beads and form the first round by passing through the first bead. For the second round, string 2 beads and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat twice. To step up to the third round, pass through the first bead of the current round. For the third round, string 1 bead and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat all around, then step up at the end of the round. Continue in this manner, alternating the two previous rounds. You may need to adjust the bead count depending on the relative size of the beads in order to keep the circle flat.

Begin with a foundation row of even-count ladder stitch. String 2 beads, pass down through the second-to-last bead in the ladder and up through the next bead. String 2 beads, pass down the next bead and then up through the following. Repeat to the end of the row. To end the row, pass back through the last bead strung. To begin the next row, string 2 beads and pass down through the second-to-last bead of the previous row and up through the following bead. Repeat, stringing 2 beads per stitch and passing down then up through 2 beads of the previous row. The 2-bead stitch will cause the beads to angle-up in each column, like a herringbone fabric.

T u b u lar Herringbone S titc h

Begin with a foundation row of ladder stitch. Join the ends together to form a tube. String 2 beads. Pass down through the next bead and up through the following bead. Repeat around the tube. At the end of the round, pass through the first beads of the previous and current rounds to step up to the new round. For tubular peyote stitch, string an even number of beads and make a foundation circle by passing through them two more times, exiting from the first bead strung. String 1 bead and pass through the third bead of the foundation circle. String 1 bead and pass through the fifth bead of the foundation circle. Continue adding 1 bead at a time, skipping over 1 bead of the first round, until you have added half the number of beads of the first round. Step up for the next round by exiting from the first bead of the second round. String 1 bead, pass through the second bead added in the second round, and pull thread tight. String 1 bead and pass through the third bead added in the second round. Continue around, filling in the “spaces” 1 bead at a time. Exit from the first bead added in each round.

S q u are S titc h

Begin by stringing a row of beads. For the second row, string 2 beads, pass through the second-tolast bead of the first row, and through the second bead just strung. Continue by stringing 1 bead, passing through the third-to-last bead of the first row, and through the bead just strung. Repeat this looping technique to the end of the row.

Pass T h ro u g h v s Pass B ac k T h ro u g h

Pass through means to move your needle in the same direction that the beads have been strung. Pass back through means to move your needle in the opposite direction.


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