Climbing Guide

ADVENTURE JUNKIES GUIDES QUICK STARTER STARTER GUIDE TO

CLIMBING LAST UPDATE - MARCH 2017

 The information contained in this guide is for informational purposes only. Any advice advice that we give is our opinion based on own own experience. You should always seek the advice of a professional before acting on something that we have published or recommended. Please understand that there are some links contained in this guide that we may benefit from financially. The material in this guide may include information, products or services by third parties. Third Party Materials comprise of the products and opinions expressed by their owners. As such, we do not assume responsibility or liability for any Third Party material or opinions. The publication of such Third Party Materials does not constitute our guarantee of any information, instruction, opinion, products or services contained within the Third Party Material. No part of this publication shall be reproduced, transmitted, or sold in whole or in part in any form, without the prior written consent of the authors. All trademarks and registered trademarks appearing in this guide are the property o f their respective owners. By reading this guide, you agree that ourselves and our company is not responsible for whatever might happen due the decisions made relating to any information presented in this guide. ©2017 The Adventure Junkies, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Published by The Adventure Junkies.

Magazine Team EDITOR: Antonio Cala

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EDITOR: Amanda Zeisset

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WRITER: Derek Cheng

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WRITER: Kim McGrenere

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DESIGNER: Danielle Zeisset email: [email protected]

Dream it. Learn it. Live it.

Photography All photographs from iStock by Getty Images AlexBrylov: Pages 1,9.1,   16,21.4 epantha: page 4.1 gregepperson: pages   4.2,7.2,9.2,10.2, 15.2,21.1,29.1,34-35 photobac: pages 6-7.1 Remains: pages   8,10.1,12,17,22,23.2 MadKruben: page 11 anatoliy_gleb: page 13 mmpile: page 14.1 roibu: 14.2 sezer66: pages 15.1,21.3, 24 photobac: pages 18.1,19.1   20,32.1 ArtmannWitte: page 18.2 PatrickPoendl: page 19.2

JimmyLung: page 21.2 ponsulak: page23 HeavenUSA: page 24 BackyardProduction: page   25.1 lzf: page 25.2 StefanieDegner: page26 Olga_Danylenko: page 28 GlobalStock: page 29 IPGGutenbergUKLtd:   page 30 YanLev: Page 31.2 DragonImages: page 31.1 shironosov: page 32.2 Buenaventuramariano:   page 33 ueuaphoto: page 36 HennPhotography: page 37

WELCOME/ CONTENTS CLIMBING

 THE EDITORS EDITORS: Antonio Cala & Amanda Zeisset

EMAIL: [email protected]

Welcome to The Adventure Junkies Climbing Quick Starter Guide!

Get Started 06 12

MESSAGE FROM

Climbing FAQ You’ve probably found your way to this ebook through our website, or maybe a friend passed it along to you. Either way, we’re happy you’re here.

Beginner Essentials: 35 Rock Climbing  Tips For Beginners

16

A Beginner’s Guide to Types of 

 

Climbing

Gear Up 22 24 26 28

We wrote this guide because when we were just starting out climbing we couldn’t find a single easy to read resource about how to get into the sport. The techie articles from m agazines and websites just made us more confused. Also, none of our friends were climbers so we had to go ask around to find the answers we needed. The process left us feeling lost and overwhelmed, we don’t want that to happen to you. Page 22: Find the best gear for your climb

 The Adventure Junkies was created to inspire you and give you the right tools to explore the outdoors. We call it the dream it, learn it, live it process. First, you get inspired by others. Then, you learn the basics of the sport. And finally, you do it yourself. We do this by providing you with high quality and practical education, and connecting you with a community of like mi nded adventures from all over the world. And, because you are reading this right now means you’re well on your way to achieving your goal!

Harnesses 101 Climbing Shoes 101 Climbing Ropes 101 Climbing Helmets 101

 This eBook is a quick starter guide, and the purpose of this guide is to do just that - get you started fast. It is not a climbing manual and we won’t cover every aspect of the sport. It will, however, take you through the basics and give you the tools you need to take the first steps in becoming a climber.

Be Prepared 30 33 36

How to Train for Rock Climbing How to Stay Safe While Climbing How to Increase Finger Strength

Page 30: Tips on training for your climb

 To all of our subscribers, followers and friends out there, thank you for the gift of your support. We only hope that this free guide can begin to repay you for the time you’ve given us. Here’s to you and your many years of climbing adventures to come!

Antonio & Amanda

Dream it. Learn it. Live it.

 ALL YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

CLIMBING FAQ AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere

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So you’ve heard all the hype and want to try your hand at climbing. Maybe your friends are hitting the local crag each weekend? Maybe you saw the 60 Minutes Alex Honnold Special back in 2012? Maybe there’s a new gym opening five minutes from you? Don’t let your burning questions about climbing hold you back! We at The Adventure Junkies are ready to answer your most frequently asked questions about how to get into climbing, debunk the myths, and get you on the rock sooner. There’s no need to hesitate and kee p wondering if climbing is right for you – the only way to find out is to give it a tr y.

GENERAL QUESTIONS Is rock climbing only for young, fit people? Absolutely not! Rock climbing is an inclusive sport that is very accessible, particularly with the rise of climbing gyms over the past 20 years. Indoor gyms provide spaces where people in all stages of life can experience the thrill of climbing. Several climbing gyms offer specific programs for youth-at-risk, community groups, or women’s gatherings. I have worked with women into their eighties and people with all body ty pes. Climbing is for everyone.

Do I need a strong upper body to climb? A strong upper body is not a necessity for climbing. Climbing technique is far more important than brute strength. Learning fundamental climbing skills can lead to significant improvements in new climbers and builds a great base upon which to progress. Learning how to climb efficiently is key. Eventually, climbers with great technique will need to make strength gains if they wish to climb more difficult routes. In this case, upper body strength will become more important.

I don’t live near a climbing destination, can I still climb?

You can get into climbing just about anywhere thanks to the growing popularity of climbing gyms. You can learn a lot about climbing in indoor gyms, and save the outdoor destinations for climbing trips. Fortunately there are outdoor climbing spots spanning the country. Some, like Red Rock Canyon just outside of Las Vegas, can be quite inexpensive to get to. If there is no climbing gym in your town but you are still super keen, you could build your own bouldering wall. Many people build home walls to supplement their climbing training, but they can also be a great way to start a community in towns with no gyms. This is often how bouldering co-ops get started.

None of my friends are outdoorsy, how can I find climbing partners? Climbing gyms often host adult teams or groups in addition to their youth programs. Inquire at your local gym to see if there is a program available. Many gyms also have meet-up sheets that you can add your name to, or ride-share programs for carpooling to local climbing spots. Don’t be afraid to be

gym too – it can be a great way to make friends. Another way to meet climbing partners is to attend an outdoor workshop, clinic, or climbing festival. A few suggestions include the Flash Foxy Women’s Climbing Festival, the Red Rock Rendezvous, or Rocktoberfest in the Red River Gorge. Facebook and other social media outlets can be great ways to find groups of people who might also be looking for partners.

I have a fear of heights, does this mean climbing isn’t right for me? If you have a fear of heights there are many options for you. One possibility is to try bouldering, which involves climbing short problems without a rope and then either  jumping or downclimbing to a mat beneath you. If you are psyched on route climbing though, there are a few ways to work through fear of heights. The first is addressing whether or not fear of heights is the true root of the fear. Perhaps it is actually fear of falling, or fear of the unknown? Another strategy is to

“A STRONG UPPER BODY IS NOT

A NECESSITY FOR CLIMBING. CLIMBING TECHNIQUE IS FAR MORE IMPORTANT THAN BRUTE STRENGTH.”

GET YOUR GEAR Find out what kind of gear you need depending on what kind of climbing you want to do.

PAGES 22 - 29

First and foremost you need to understand the risks associated with climbing and the personal safety measures required. When route climbing you need to know proper belay technique and rope management. As a lead climber, knowing how to clip quickdraws correctly and maintain good fall lines are essential. Clear and effective communication between partners is critical. Of course, a deep understanding of how to use the necessary equipment and inspect it for wear is important. As a boulderer you must know how to fall safely. Good spotting technique is also very important. If you’re climbing outside, learn good pad placement and how to assess dangerous fall zones. No matter where you are climbing or in what discipline, inspect fixed gear for extensive wear, carefully consider hazards in the area including weather and conditions, and listen to your body to prevent injuries.

What gear do I need to rock climb?  The gear you will need for rock climbing depends on thetype of climbing you want to do. If you’re climbing indoors you’ll have the option to rent gear, but eventually purchasing your own equipment is definitely worth it. The basics include climbing shoes and chalk, but if you’ll be climbing routes you will also need a harness, belay device, and possibly your own rope. If you’re bouldering outside you may want to add a crash pad or two to your gear closet. Sport climbers will need quickdraws, personal anchor systems, and a topanchor set-up.  Traditional climbers willwant additional anchor sets,extendable quickdraws, cams and nuts. Even more gear is required for multipitch climbing, alpine climbing and ice climbing. We recommend learning the specific gear required for whichever discipline you are most interested in.

Where can I find advice about buying gear? “ THE GEAR YOU WILL NEED FOR ROCK CL IMBING DEPENDS O N THE  TYPE OF CLIMB ING YOU WANT TO DO. IF YOU’RE CLIMBING INDOO RS YOU’LL HAVE THE OPTION TO RENT GEAR, BUT EVENTUALLY PUR� CHASING YOUR OWN EQUIPMENT IS DEFINITELY WORTH IT. ” KIM MCGRENERE

the equipment you are using so that you can truly trust your gear. Lastly, try learning from different mental training resources, like the Rock Warrior’s Way, for exercises, suggestions, and new ways of thinking.

and chalk. Sport climbing requires more gear, and trad climbers need more gear still. We also recommend investing in an AMGA-certified guide when you first climb outside.

I don’t have a lot of money, what are the costs I can expect?

CLIMBING SAFETY AND GEAR

Unfortunately climbing can have some financial barriers. Some gear, like chalk bags and climbing shoes, can be safe to purchase second hand, but it is best to buy any safety equipment new as you can never be sure of its history. If you want to climb inside but are worried about the high costs of modern gyms, there are a few options. Check around your town to see if there are any not-for-profit facilities, gyms in community centers, or climbing co-ops as these are often less expensive. Alternatively, bigger gyms often offer discount rates in non-peak hours or have special rates for students. If money is a very serious set-back, ask about volunteer opportunities such as belaying for k ids groups in exchange for free drop-in passes. Most outdoor climbing spots are free, so gear is primary the financial

 Is rock climbing safe? Rock climbing is a dangerous sport; however it is possible to substantially reduce the risks in climbing. It is critical to learn how to use all equipment to the manufacturer’s standards. Learning basic technique so that you can climb in control also minimizes risk. Most of the “safety”in a climbing situation is the responsibility of the climber – usually dangerous situations are the result of human error.

What do I need to do to stay safe while

Local climbing shops or your local climbing gym are great places to seek advice about climbing gear. There are a lot of overwhelming options to search through out there, so seeking guidance from knowledgeable experts is a great place to start. Browsing online can also be really helpful. Here at The Adventure Junkies we offer gear reviews and guides. Here are a few of our gear articles to get you started. https://www.theadventurejunkies.com/ category/climbing/climbing-gear/

CLIMBING OUTDOORS  I’ve climbed for a month in the gym, am I ready to go outside? We strongly recommend against heading outdoors unless you have knowledgeable and responsible mentors accompanying you. When climbing outside there is much more to consider when managing risk. If you do not have access to mentors in the community, we recommend hiring an AMGAcertified guide to get you started outside.

How can I be a good steward at the crag? Climbers take pride in their crag ethics. Be respectful of other climbers, the rock you are climbing on, and the land around it. Take turns on routes or boulders, be mindful of others waiting, avoid spraying beta, brush your tick marks, and don’t be obnoxious. Pack out whatever you pack in, stay on trails and off of sensitive areas, and know the bathroom procedures for the ecosystem you’re climbing in.

How can I support climbing in America? We suggest joining the Access Fund. Your membership fee goes towards protecting the access and integrity of the land that climbers enjoy, and is a fantastic way to join the greater community.

CLIMBING PROGRESSION  I want to get better at climbing, where should I start?  The first step is to climba lot. Observe those aroundyou to learn how they approach a route or problem, use their feet, and move their bodies. Consider taking a technique l esson. If you’re climbing outdoors, climb in as many areas and on as many rock types as possible. Push yourself. Consider adopting a training plan. There are a lot of great books out there that can help you progress as well, such as How to Climb 5.12.

I am female, are there women-specific spaces where I can grow as a climber?  The climbing community as a whole has come a long way in supporting women in the sport. Still, there can be advantages to climbing solely with other women, in terms of support, understanding, and climbing sty le. Many gyms offer women-specific clubs and programs. There are also several festivals and clinics popping up around the country, like the Flash Foxy Women’s climbing festival, the Moab Women’s Clinic, and workshops through Chicks with Picks, to name a few.

Where can I learn more about climbing? You can learn about climbing in AMGA courses, classes offered in climbing gyms, and through community mentors. Online there are an abundance of resources as well. Climbing magazines offer tips for improvement, motivating stories, and up to date news on who’s doing what in the community. If you work a desk job, climbing podcasts can also be a great resource for furthering your climbing education. ♦

HAVE MORE QUESTIONS? If you still have more climbing questions you would like to get answered, head to The Adventure Junkies Forum and post it there. The suppportive  TAJ community isalways happy tohelp each other out.

CLIMBING FORUM

BEGINNER

ESSENTIALS AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere

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35 ROCK CLIMBING TIPS FOR BEGINNERS So you’ve finally tried your hand at rock climbing and it turns out you love it! The physical challenge, the social aspects, the problem solving, the feeling of defying gravity – you’ve been hooked by it all. Are you wondering how to get from first-time gumby to proficient expert as quickly as possible? That’s where we come in with our very best rock climbing tips for beginners.

Here at The Adventure Junkies we understand firsthand the addiction to rock climbing. We also know that improving at the sport is a lifelong pursuit. To help you with that mission, we’ve put together a list of tips to up your climbing game whether you’re brand new to the sport or have been at it for years.

1

CLIMB WHENEVER YOU CAN. When you are starting

out, there is no substitution for spending as much time as possible actually climbing. Climbing gyms are a great resource as they offer many routes spanning a wide range of difficulties and styles. Gyms are also a great place to pick up tips by observing others.

2

 TAKE AN INTRO TO CLIMBING COURSE  at

your local climbing gym. Intro courses are especially vital if you will be doing any rope climbing. Instructors will teach you how to belay safely, how to tie a figure eight follow through knot and how to communicateeffectively.

3

FIND A MENTOR in the

community. With the rise in popularity of modern climbing gyms, rock climbing mentorship is becoming less common. If you can find a trusted expert in your community who is willing to mentor you, you can benefit immensely from his or her knowledge.

4

CONSIDER SETTING PERSONAL GOALS to

help motivate you. These can be as simple as managing your fear of falling, learning a new technique, or pushing yourself into a new grade range. Ensure that your goals are SMART: Specific. Measurable. Attainable. Relevant. Timely.

5

START A CLIMBING JOURNAL to track your

mental and physical progress. If you transition to climbing outdoors, consider joining an online track-your-climbing platform like 8a or Sendage. These sites are community spaces where people can share and view climbs they’ve completed and get psyched to try new things.

6

MAKE A LIST OF PLACES YOU WOULD LOVE TO CLIMB. Rock

climbing trips can take you to some breathtaking corners of the world. A few Adventure Junkies suggestions include: Yosemite, California. Kalymnos, Greece. Rocklands, South Africa. Chiang Mai, Thailand. Blue Mountains, Australia.

 TECHNIQUES TO BECOME A BETTER ROCK CLIMBER

“LEARN GOOD MOVEMENT,

CAREFUL FOOTWORK, BALANCE, AND BODY POSITIONING BEFORE WORRYING ABOUT GETTING STRONGER.” KIM MCGRENERE

7

CLIMBING IS MUCH MORE ABOUT TECHNIQUE THAN BRUTE STRENGTH. Any experienced climber will tell you that being a GOOD climber is key when you are  just starting out. Learn good movement, careful footwork, balance, and body positioning before worrying about getting stronger.

8

LEARN HOW TO USE YOUR FEET EFFEC TIVELY. Careful, inten-

tional foot placements can increase the control you have over your climbing. Great climbing begins with great footwork – watch any expert and you’ll find their foot placements are always silent and deliberate. A great way to practice is by adding footwork drills into your warm up.

9

 TRY TO KEEP YOUR ARMS STRAIGHT and

make use of your skeletal advantage. Holding yourself up with bent arms (a lock-off position) is extremely tiring and will build up the lactic acid in your forearms, pumping you out in no time.

10

KEEP YOUR CENTER OF GRAVITY (COG) LOW, CLOSE TO THE WALL, AND ABOVE YOUR BASE OF SUPPORT.  This will help you to use the big muscles in your legs more, dissuading you from pulling in too much with your arms. It will also make it easier to maintain stable balance while resting and while moving.

11

LEARN THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STATIC AND DY-

ing is slow and controlled and most moves are essentially reversible. Dynamic climbing utilizes power and momentum, and is useful when you need to move your COG over larger distances before resuming stable balance. Dynamic moves are usually irreversible. Both static and dynamic climbing are useful movement strategies.

12

GET YOUR MENTAL GAME DIALED IN.

 The mental aspects of rock climbing are arguably as important as the physical aspects. Learn to focus and concentrate, deal with fears, accept failure, handle your ego, engage in positive self-talk, and more. The Rock Warrior’s Way is a fantastic resource with tons of applicable exercises.

ROCK CLIMBING BODY MAINTENANCE AND INJURY PREVENTION

13

It’s crucial to WARM

UP BEFORE CLIMBING to help prevent

injury. Your warm-up should include three stages: 1) light cardio to raise your heart rate and get blood flowing, 2) dynamic stretching, and 3) sport-specific warm-up, such as 30 minutes of easy bouldering.

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DO CRITICAL OPPOSITION EXERCISES  to

take care of your body’s balance and composition. Climbers do a lot of pulling and te nd to have overdeveloped lats and shoulders.  The climber’s hunchis a very common posture seen in those who are

demos at climbing gyms. Demos are a great way to test out different models first hand before you buy. Keep an eye out for shoe de mos at climbing festivals as well.

23

LEARN AS MUCH ABOUT GEAR AS YOU CAN. Companies

release information about all their latest innovations each year, and are a great resource if you really want to geek out. We at The Adventure Junkies also give tips for buying essential new climbing gear, like beginner shoes, harnesses and ropes.

HOW TO BROADEN YOUR ROCK CLIMBING KNOWLEDGE

24 per body. Some basic opposition exercises include pushups, dips and shoulder presses. If you are prone to elbow pain, wrist opposition exercises are a great idea too.

15

WORK ON STRENGTHENING YOUR CORE. A six-pack may look good, but is not

especially useful for your climbing. Focus on your lower front and back core that will help you ke ep your feet on the wall in steep terrain, and the small muscles that help with body tension.

16

MUSCLES DEVELOP AND STRENGTHEN QUICKER THAN  TENDONS DO. If you are discovering rock

climbing as an adult, the tendons in your fingers are likely not very strong. Pace yourself on difficult problems and small crimp holds so as not to injure your fingers. Finger injuries are common in climbers and can set you back significantly.

17

ENGAGE YOUR SHOULDERS  when you

are climbing. By drawing your shoulders back and squeezing your scapula together, you force your shoulders into a healthy position for climbing and can reduce your chance of injury. Shoulder stability exercises are another great way to keep your shoulders functional and strong. Split tips. Flappers. Cracked skin around your nails. Trad gobies. Whether you are climbing in the gym, jamming cracks, or bearing down on razor sharp edges outside, your hands will get trashed. DON’T LET BAD SKIN BE YOUR LIMIT-

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or if you’re a traveling dirtbag, read climbing magazines for free in climber run coffee shops and gear stores. The big three in the USA are Climbing Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Alpinist, and the Canadian Gripped Magazine is also awesome.

hand balms on the market. They really do help, trust us.

19

USE MASSAGE TOOLS like a theracane

or foam roller to work out knots and tight spots. You might have sore muscles you didn’t even know you had, and your shoulders, lats, and forearms will surely feel worked after a good session. If a massage therapist is out of your budget, d o what you can to work the knots out yourself.

20

SIGN UP FOR A YOGA-FOR-CLIMBERS CLASS. If you can’t find a climbing

specific yoga class in your area, any yoga will still be beneficial. You can also check out YouTube channels like Fightmaster Yoga and Climber Yoga. Yoga can increase your flexibility, core strength, and your mental focus, all things that can go a long way on the rock wall.

 TIPS FOR CHOOSING ROCK  CLIMBING GEAR

21

As soon as you are hooked by climbing,

CONSIDER BUYING YOUR OWN SHOES AND CHALK. Climbing shoes are critical for

learning how to use your feet while climbing. These are the only two items you actually NEED to go bouldering, and they will give you independence for any other kind of climbing you wish to try as well.

22

ASK AT YOUR LOCAL CLIMBING GYM ABOUT SHOE DEMO NIGHTS. Product representatives for climbing shoe brands like

BUY SUBSCRIP TIONS TO CLIMBING MAGAZINES,

GET A BETTER GRIP Find out how to increase your finger strength for a better climb.

PAGES

36-37

“PACE YOURSELF ON DIFFICULT PROBLEMS AND SMALL CRIMP HOLDS SO AS NOT TO INJURE YOUR FINGERS.”

25

FOLLOW CLIMBERS THAT GET YOU PSYCHED ON INSTAGRAM.  As the cliché goes, pictures are worth a thousand words, and there’s nothing like some sick climbing photos to get you inspired. The climbing community is very active on Instagram and overall super positive as well.

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WATCH CLIMBING MOVIES. The Reel Rock

27

LEARN YOUR CLIMBING JARGON.

film festival is a great place to start. Currently in their eleventh year, a new Reel Rock short film collection travels the world annually inspiring climbers and stoking the stoke.

Ever walk into the climbing gym and feel like you’re listening to another language as climbers trade beta on their latest projects? Learn the terms and join the conversation.

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If you have the unfortunate luck of sitting at a desk all day for work,

 TRY LISTENING TO CLIMBING PODCASTS. The pioneer rock climbing podcast is the Enormocast, and features candid face-to-face interviews and story-telling with climbers from around the world. Other great audio media includes Chalk Talk, TrainingBeta, and the Power Company Climbing podcast.

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KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ONSIGHTING, FLASHING, AND REDPOINTING A ROUTE. Each of these terms refer to climbing a route clean (no falls, takes, or pulling on gear). Onsight a route means you’ve sent it first try with no previous information at all. Flashing means you’ve sent it first try but either previewed the route or received beta (information) about it. Repointing means you’ve sent the route after already trying at least once.

MORE ROCK  CLIMBING TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

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Many climbing gyms have adult teams, recreational teams, or women’s groups. Joining a team is a great way to MEET PEOPLE IN THE COMMUNITY and expand your skills on a regular basis.

31

ATTEND A LOCAL COMPETITION AS A COMPETITOR OR A SPECTATOR. Most competitions have a beginner or recreational division, and expose you to a ton of new problems with a bunch of really psyched people. Attending competitions as a spectator is also a great way to see some of the best climbers in the community give it their all.

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If you are making progress with your technique but would like to excel even more, CONSIDER

ADOPTING A BEGINNER  TRAINING PLAN. Ask at your local gym to see if they offer training programs, or check out Training Beta for a ton of great online resources

Moving from indoor to outdoor climbing can be overwhelming and dangerous. Unless you have a super awesome and reliable mentor with a lot of experience, WE RECOM-

33

MEND HIRING A GUIDE FOR YOUR INITIAL TRANSITION  TO REAL ROCK. Professional rock guides in the USA are certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA).

34

Climbers pride themselves in the respect they show for their crags.

LEARN ABOUT THE CODE OF ETHICS THAT CLIMBERS ADHERE TO WHEN CLIMBING OUTDOORS. A few principles include leave no trace, wait your turn before climbing, don’t play loud music or be obnoxious, help with trail maintenance, brush your tick marks, avoid spraying beta, and respect route or area closures.

35

ATTEND CLIMBING FESTIVALS to immerse

yourself in all aspects of climbing culture. At festivals you often have a chance to participate in crag clean-ups, attend sweet climbing workshops, listen to slideshows, meet climbing gear vendors, get free stuff, and make awesome connections. A few great festivals to get you started are the Red Rock Rendezvous, the Smith Rock Spring Thing, the Lander International Climbing Festival, the Red River Gorge Rocktoberfest, and the Women’s Climbing Festival in Bishop. ♦

GYM CLIMBING  The popularity of gym climbing has been growing at an exponential rate over the past 20 years. Most folks nowadays are introduced to climbing through gyms. For many of people, the climbing gym represents the entirety of their climbing world.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO

 TYPES OF CLIMBING AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere

INFO

Rock climbing is a sport with a wide range of sub-disciplines. Feeling over your head trying to get everything straight?  There is a lot to unpack here, so we’ve broken down the types of climbing to help your confusion melt away. You will now be able to confidently respond to the barrage of questions from your curious co-worker and worried mother: Do you free climb? How do you get up there? Are there hooks on the wall? Aren’t you afraid of falling? What’s the point of aid climbing?

 This guide to climbing types offers an overview the different styles to make the muddiness a little clearer. Remember though that there are overlaps and nuances among what we’ve described – if there’s a style of interest to you, there are an abundance of resources out there to help you learn more about it. Also, remember that rock climbing is a dangerous sport and our overview is not a substitute for appropriate training.

BOULDERING Bouldering is a great way to get into rock climbing indoors – all you need are climbing shoes and chalk. Boulderers climb pre-set routes known as “problems”that ascend short walls. A problem is usually completed once the climber has matched hands in a controlled manner on a designated finish hold. The padded floors in climbing gyms are designed to absorb the impact of falls effectively once climbers learn how to fall safely

TOP ROPE CLIMBING  Top rope climbing is perfect for building endurance, learning rope skills, and honing techniques before progressing to potentially riskier disciplines of the sport. For top roping, the rope that you tie into is already running through an anchor at the top of the route. As the climber moves up the wall,

a belay device. Because the rope is through a top anchor, fall distances tend to be small.

LEAD CLIMBING In lead climbing, the rope and the climber begin together at the base of the route. The climber ties into their rope, colloquially referred to as the “sharp end”, and then ascends the wall clipping their rope into quick draws as they go while their belayer feeds them slack from below. Lead climbers must climb some distance above a quickdraw to reach the next, which leads to falls that can be quite large. However, slack in the system and dynamic elongation of climbing ropes, coupled with an adept belayer, soften lead climbing falls and reduce impact to the climber.

COMPETITION STYLE  With the rise in popularity of indoor climbing gyms and climbing competitions has led to a growth in competition-style routes and problems. In bouldering and lead climbing, competition style lends itself to dynamic, gymnastic moves and sequences that require strong puzzle-solving skills. Problems are often set using volumes (large, an-

“TOP ROPE CLIMBING IS PERFECT FOR BUILDING ENDURANCE, LEARNING ROPE SKILLS, AND HONING TECHNIQUES BEFORE PROGRESSING TO POTENTIALLY RISKIER DISCIPLINES OF THE SPORT .”

“OFTEN TRAD CLIMBS FOLLOW

VERTICAL CRACK SYSTEMS IN  THE RO CK. IN THE SE SITUA�  TIONS, TRA D CLIMB ERS USE CRACK TECHNIQUES LIKE HAND AND FOOT JAMS TO CLIMB THE CRACK.” KIM MCGRENERE

competitors to maneuver over variable terrain.  The third branch of competition climbing is speed climbing. A single speed climbing route is set and regulated to be identical at all facilities that offer it, allowing athletes across the globe to train on an even playing field. Bouldering, lead, and speed competition climbing are regulated by the International Federation of Sport Climbing.

ommended. A 5.7 is an example of a less difficult route, compared with a 5.13a which is a much more challenging. It’s important to remember that climbing grades are highly subjective.

FREE CLIMBING

TRADITIONAL CLIMBING

Free climbing refers to any type of moves executed under the climbers’own power to gain upward progress. Free climbers often use ropes and gear to top rope or lead climb but these are not explicitly required.

OUTDOOR BOULDERING Bouldering is a branch of climbing that is centered purely on movement. While only climbing shoes and chalk are necessary, most people use crash pads to absorb the impact of a fall. Boulderers mitigate the risk of climbing without a rope by placing their crash pads in expected fall zones, and using spotters. When climbing outdoors, sending a boulder problem typically requires that the climber mount the boulder, known as “topping out”, after following the specified path. Bouldering lends itself to powerful climbing by nature of the shorter problems and condensed set of moves. Boulderers tend to execute more difficult moves than climbers in other disciplines. In Nor th America, the difficulty of boulder problems are rated on a V-scale, where V0 is the easiest, and V16 is the confirmed hardest in the world.

“SPORT ROUTES ARE ESTABLISHED AND

BOLTED BY ROUTE DEVELOPERS, WHO ADD PERMANENT BOLTS INTO THE ROCK FACE ON WHICH CLIMBERS CAN HANG  THEIR QUIC KDRAWS TO CLIP INTO THEIR ROPE. ”

SPORT CLIMBING Sport climbing is the closest outdoor relative to roped climbing in a gym. Sport climbing routes can be extremely variable, from low-angle slabs, to technical vertical lines, to overhanging gymnastic-type routes. Sport routes are established and bolted by route developers, who add permanent bolts into the rock face on which climbers can hang their quickdraws to clip their rope into. In North America, sport climbing routes are graded using the Yosemite

 Traditional, or“trad”, climbing was the primary form of free climbing before the rise in popularity of bolted sport routes. Trad climbing routes are established in natural weaknesses in the rock and protected by traditional gear (ie. cams and nuts). Trad climbers place their gear on lead and then clean their gear off the rock when they are finished. You may find bolted anchors or the occasional bolt-protected-crux on a trad route, but bolts are typically rare. Often trad climbs follow vertical crack systems in the rock. In these situations, trad climbers use crack techniques like hand and foot jams to climb the crack.  Trad climbing routes are graded using the YDS.

MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING Multi-pitch routes ascend tall walls beyond the reach of a single rope length. Multipitch routes can be bolted or can require traditional gear. It’s crucial to always read route

the correct route, have brought the appropriate gear, and have a descent plan. Multi-pitch routes can often be rappelled, but sometimes climbers can hike down off the route.  There are many ways to arrange partnership on multi-pitch routes, for example climbing partners might swap leads between belay stations. One partner will lead the first pitch being belayed from the bottom, and then upon reaching the anchor they will top-belay their partner up to meet them. The person who just followed the route will then begin leading the second pitch, and the swapping pattern continues. Multi-pitch routes are also graded using the YDS.

ICE CLIMBING Ice climbing allows adventure seekers to scale up frozen waterfalls. On vertical routes, climbers sink ice tools and crampons into the ice to ascend. Natural features and ice screws are used for protection on lead, but lead climbing on ice can be potentially more dangerous than on rock. Although some of the movement principles of rock climbing carry over, ice climbing is a very different beast. Ice climbs are graded using the WI scale based on the steepness of the ice and range in

Ice routes can sometimes present a mixture of ice and rock. In this case, climbers use dry tooling techniques, where they place their ice tools into cracks and crevices in the rock in order to climb up.

FREE SOLOING Free soloing is the highest consequence form of rock climbing. Free solo climbers climb routes that are usually free climbed with equipment, but without the use of ropes. In this way, free soloers are alone on the wall, only requiring their shoes and chalk. A very small proportion of elite climbers engage in free solo climbing. Falls when free soloing are deadly, with only the odd exception.

SAFETY FIRST Find out how to stay safe while on the mountain.

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33 - 35

AID CLIMBING Aid climbers ascend a rock face by pulling on pieces of fixed or placed gear and stepping in aiders (ladders made of webbing loops) to assist them. Aid climbing was the original technique used to climb big vertical walls in the early 1900s, and remains popular for big wall climbing in places l ike Yosemite, California. Tools used in clean aid climbing include hooks, nuts and modern traditional gear like cams. Many relics from early fixed aid climbing days can still be found on classic routes in the form of pinscars or actual pitons that still remain.

“CLIMBING A “BIG WALL” IS USU�

ALLY A MULTI�DAY EVENT, WHICH CLIMBERS OFTEN REFER TO AS A LITTLE BIT OF CLIMBING WITH A LOT OF WORKHORSING.” KIM MCGRENERE

BIG WALL CLIMBING You may have overheard folks wondering “what is the point of aid climbing?”but it’s actually an extremely handy and necessary skill to ascend certain steep walls. Many big wall routes have very difficult moves, like the Nose on El Cap that goes free at 5.14- and has been climbed by few talented rock climbers. Aid climbing through the difficult sections makes a route like the Nose

Climbing a “big wall”is usually a multi-day event, which climbers often refer to as a little bit of climbing with a lot of workhorsing. Logistics for big wall climbing are complicated; climbers must bring a static line and haul bags to carry up their food, water and supplies, as well as portaledges for sleeping and overnight gear.  There has been a rise in popularity in climbers pushing the limits of free and aid big wall climbing. One way climbers are breaking new ground is in speed climbing: the current speed record on the nose is 2:23:46. Climbers are also at the leading edge of difficult big wall climbing. In 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgenson did the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall, the hardest big wall route in the world (which recently saw a second ascent by Adam Ondra, and in 2012 Alex Honnold free soloed El Capitan, Half Dome, and Mount Watkins in a single 24 hour push.

ALPINE CLIMBING Alpine climbing is one of the most adventurous and dangerous branches of climbing and is a sport for those who dream of climbing mountains. Alpine climbers often need to apply a range of te chniques from other sub-disciplines of climbing like face and crack climbing, placing traditional gear, and ice climbing. Multipitching and aid climbing techniques can also prove to be useful. In addition to the technical skills, alpine climbers excel at “suffering” – learning to cope with extreme conditions and minimal resources. Understanding and reading weather and snow patterns is very important. Perhaps more so than any other group of climbers, alpine climbers care about having the lightest gear possible as they must carry in everything they need. Both free and aid skills are useful in alpine scenarios, and it is important to have all these tools in your repertoire before heading to the mountains. ♦

LEG LOOPS

 CLIMBING

HARNESSES 101 AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere

INFO

So you do any kind of roped up climbing, you spend a lot of time standing, sitting, hanging and falling in your harness. Finding the best climbing harness you can get is essential for safety, comfort and performance.  Think about the kind of climbing you love – Gymclimbing? Sport climbing?  Trad climbing? Iceclimbing? For just a waistband and some leg loops, there is a huge amount of variation in climbing harnesses on the market. Gear producers have innovated modern harnesses to be light, comfortable, efficient, and safe. We are here to break down the differences between some of this year’s top all-arounders and help you to pick the best climbing harness to meets your needs.

PURPOSE Climbing sub-disciplines can help narrow in on the best climbing harness.

climbers need gear loops for quickdraws and enjoy a lightweight model. Trad climbers benefit from bigger gear loops and a padded, comfy fit. Ice climbers need ice clipper slots and adjustable leg loops.

SIZING AND COMFORT A well fit harness is critical to ensuring the harness can perform safely. The waist belt is the most important component and should be sized such that it won’t slide over the hips if the climber flips upside down. Beyond safety, a comfortable harness will improve your quality of life immensely when climbing. It’s worth considering the benefits and trade- offs of extra padding and breathability.

It’s important to listen to your body and consider whether you want fixed or adjustable harness leg loops. Many people prefer fixed leg loops as they tend to be less bulky, lighter, and quick to take on and off. The biggest issue with fixed leg loops is that they are not suitable for every body type. If your legs don’t fit comfortably in fixed loops, then adjustable is the way to go! Adjustable loops also enable you to comfortably layer your clothes in a variety of weather conditions.

GEAR LOOPS Gear loops are present on a harness to make your life more convenient! Having four gear loops is essential when climbing outside to ensure there’s enough real estate to hang lots of equipment. Look for larger and sturdier loops if you know you have more gear.

WEIGHT Climbers generally want to feel lightweight so the draw of a lighter harness is self-explanatory. Some people swear by light harnesses to help them send their latest project, or when keeping it light and fast on

notice a difference, so weight really comes down to personal preference.

MEN’S VS WOMEN’S  There are substantial differences between men’s and women’s harnesses. The distance between the leg loops and the waist belt, known as the rise, is longer on a woman’s harness. This is because women generally have smaller waists and wider hips, and tend to wear their harnesses above their hips. Women have a lower center of gravity and the higher waist belt makes hanging in a harness more comfortable. In the end the difference between men’s and women’s harnesses has to do with body type – try on both to see which one fits your body best.

HARNESS CARE Your harness is a critical piece of safety equipment. Because you depend on it with no back up, it is imperative that you care for your harness appropriately. Learn the specific care instructions of the model you buy, and follow recommendations for when to replace it. There is no back-up for a failed harness. ♦

CLICK THIS LINK FOR OUR REVIEWS AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT CLIMBING HARNESSES: https://www.theadventurejunkies. com/best-climbing-harness/

lining will remain comparable to how it felt right out of the box. While some people prefer wearing their shoes with a light sock, climbing shoes are designed for bare feet.

 CLIMBING

SHOES 101 AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere

INFO

So you’ve caught the rock climbing bug and it’s time to buy your first pair of climbing shoes. New gear is exciting but it can be overwhelming knowing where to start. Climbing is a sport with many sub-disciplines, reflected by the many different climbing shoes on the market. So, how do you know what are the best beginner climbing shoes for you?

FIT  The most important consideration when choosing the best beginner climbing shoe is fit. Every person’s foot shape is different. The shape, width, volume and heel depth of your foot can all affect how comfortable you are in your new kicks. The only way to find the perfect shoe is to try on as many models as possible, so hit the shops and be patient! Your shoe should fit snug and comfortable, with no dead spaces, hot spots, or painful areas. Start with something that feels great so you can truly love it.

DOWNSIZING You’ve probably heard other climbers discussing downsizing from their street

keep your feet immobilized in your shoes. A lack of wiggle room can increase precision and power needed for finessing those tiny foot edges or pulling hard with that heel hook. Be careful not to downsize too much though – your climbing shoes should never be so painful that you dread your evening session at the local gym for fear of putting them on.

STRETCH  To complicate things, some climbing shoes stretch, but others don’t. Once you’ve downsized from your street shoes to a comfortable, snug fit, you need to know whether your shoes will bag out or not. The length of your climbing shoe from heel to toe will never change. But, a shoe with an unlined leather

MEN’S VS WOMEN’S Several climbing shoe models have a “sister shoe”which has been tweaked to better suit some women’s feet. Besides being your source for pink or purple climbing footwear, these shoes tend to be lower volume and often slightly narrower. Learn about the shape of your own foot – many dudes with low volume feet swear by these models too.

SHOE SHAPE Every shoe we’ve suggested in this article is flat lasted. Flat last shoes are comfortable and easy to wear all day with little suffering. When you’re first starting, it’s a good idea to rule out the powerful shape of a hooked downturned shoe. Technically aggressive, high-performance shoes will come in useful with more experience, when you’re ready to expand you climbing style.

VELCRO VS LACE-UP  There are two mainways to tighten

Velcro shoes are easier to take on and off. Some tighten just as well as their lace-up counterparts. Velcro shoes are great for bouldering, gym or sport climbing because you’ll be switching from your regular shoes to your climbing shoes often. Laces-up shoes have several advantages – they are more adjustable, this allows you to get the t ightness exactly how you like it. An obvious downside is they are slower to put on and take off. ♦ CLICK THE LINK BELOW FOR OUR REVIEWS AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT CLIMBING SHOES: https://www.theadventurejunkies. com/best-beginner-climbing-shoes/

WEIGHT Weight is arguably more important than the diameter and should be considered alongside it.

 CLIMBING

ROPES 101 AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere

INFO

Your climbing rope is your lifeline. With the help of your belayer, you rely 100% on your rope to keep you safe and off the ground. When you have the best climbing rope to suit your needs, it puts your mind at ease so you focus on what’s important: your climbing for the day. WHY DYNAMIC? You may have heard of both dynamic and static ropes. Climbers use dynamic ropes because they stretch and elongate to absorb the impact of a fall. Static ropes are useful for hauling gear on big walls, but not for actual climbing.

DIAMETER Diameter is a great way to begin to isolate the best climbing rope to meet your needs. Single climbing ropes can generally be sorted into three size classes.

THICK ROPES (9.9MM AND UP)  Thick are durable and great for beginners or climbers who prefer totop-rope.  They are also great as“workhorse”ropes for projecting, which often involves extensive hang-dogging and repeated falling.

MEDIUM ROPES (9.5 – 9.8MM) Medium ropes are durable enough to handle projecting but light and supple enough for comfortably sending sport and trad routes.

THIN ROPES (9.4MM AND DOWN)  Thin ropes will wear faster but are ideal for redpointing or lightweight, fast

 The linear weight of a climbing rope is measured in grams per meter. Imagine leading a 20 meter (~65 feet) pitch – the rope weight that you’re hauling adds up fast. Climbers who are looking to send hard routes often seek the lightest weight rope they can get away with. For top-ropers and gym climbers, weight is not an issue.

LENGTH Most ropes come in many different lengths. A 60 meter rope is often the standard for a single rope, but benefits come with choosing something longer. A longer rope enables you to climb further in a single push. Length thus increases the number of routes available to you. The ends of a longer rope can also be cut more times before it becomes too short to climb on, thus potentially adding to its lifespan.  Two trade-offs to longer ropes are cost and weight. They are much

extra weight on your approach to and from the crag.

come with a middle marker, but in the end there is no substitute for good rope management.

DRY-TREATMENT  The ropes we’vecompared in this review are dry-treated. Dry-treatment protects ropes from water absorption, makes them more abrasion-resistant, and can increase their durability and lifespan. Each company has a different standard for how they treat their ropes. Certain companies, like Mammut and Sterling, allow you to choose whether your rope is dry-treated. Some of the ropes we’ve covered are only offered with a dry-treatment. Although beneficial, dry-treatments increase the cost of a rope significantly. If you are using your rope in a gym or in fair weather conditions, a dry-treated rope is an unnecessary expense.

BICOLOR Bicolor is a convenience factor, and one that comes with a price tag. It ’s perfectly fine to climb with a single color rope as long as you are safe and meticulous: know the length of your rope and always tie knots in the

ROPE CARE Just like your climbing harness, there is no back-up to your climbing rope. It is absolutely critical to check your rope for wear and care for it appropriately. Rope companies advertise the expected lifespan of the ropes they manufacture. When your rope reaches the end of its life, retire it. The alternative is not worth the risk. Besides, think of all the fun crafts you can take on with your old rope bits. ♦ CLICK THE LINK BELOW FOR OUR REVIEWS AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT CLIMBING ROPES: https://www.theadventurejunkies. com/best-climbing-rope/

ADJUSTABILITY

 CLIMBING

HELMETS 101 AUTHOR:Derek Cheng

INFO

Love climbing rock faces outdoors, but worried about protecting your most important asset – your head? Since time immemorial, climbers’ heads have come under threat f rom rockfall, or by being struck during an awkward sideways or upside down fall. There are a myriad of helmet options, but which one is the best climbing helmet for the type of climbing that interests you?

PROTECTION Rocks are solid, so helmets need to be made of suitable material to protect you from them. All helmets meet an industry standard of protection, with greater protection from overhead impact than from the side. Most helmets are usually made of a hard plastic shell, or a thick layer of lightweight foam with a polycarbonate shell. A plastic shell is considered to be more durable and longer lasting, but what it offers in safety, it compromises on weight and comfort.

WEIGHT AND COMFORT Some like them thin and l ight. Some like them thick and heavy. What’s right

areas, then a heavier, plastic-shell helmet will offer more protection from rockfall. A lighter helmet may be better if you’re climbing longer routes that are relatively well traveled, as rockfall is less likely. If you’re new to climbing, a bit of weight difference isn’t going to matter all that much.

VENTILATION Sometimes climbers will want to wear a helmet all day. Other times simply for an hour or two. Melting under a helmet with little ventilation in a hot, humid climbing area is no fun for anyone. But neither is alpine climbing in a frigid stratosphere in a helmet with more ventilation gaps than an open window. Pick the right amount of ventilation for the type of climb you’re most psyched

Climbers traverse lots of variable terrain and climates, and sometimes wear woolen beanies of different thickness under their helmets. If you’re in an environment that may see you adjusting your helmet multiple times in a day, then it will make a great deal of difference to have one that is easy and intuitive to fine-tune. ♦ CLICK THE LINK BELOW FOR OUR REVIEWS AND PRICES ON DIFFERENT CLIMBING HELMETS: https://www.theadventurejunkies. com/best-climbing-helmets/

 HOW TO

TRAIN FOR ROCK CLIMBING AUTHOR: Kim McGrenere

INFO

Have you tried all the tips you can think of to become a better climber and are ready to add training to your routine? Figuring out how to train for rock climbing can be daunting. Knowledge on climbing has been expanding over the past fifteen years and we are now in a n exciting era of training for this sport. There is no one best way to train. You need to know your body, identify strengths and weaknesses, and be honest with yourself about goals and motivations. As an added complication, many experts differ on their opinions of how to train. To help you out, we at The Adventure Junkies have curated the most well-accepted training methods to get you on your way.

MAKE A TRAINING SCHEDULE A common mistake that climbers make is over-training. Over-training can lead to injuries, particularly in the fingers, elbows, and shoulders. One way to prevent over-training is to design your schedule around an anticipated peak, such as time off in the summer or an upcoming climbing trip. Using a linear periodization is a great way to develop a training schedule, especially for beginners.

It’s important to lay out your goals to plan how best to meet them. Having concrete goals will help you to choose the length of cycles in your training plan. Identifying weaknesses can be extremely beneficial as well as that will help to target your training.  There are many greattrainers and resources online that can help you to train effectively. Training Beta provides training programs for

all sorts of climbers, and they are dedicated to assembling knowledge from experts in the field. Finally, ensure that your training schedule incorporates lots of time for rest and recovery.

FOUR FUNDAMENTAL TIPS TIP #1: WARM-UP   To prepare your body for any training workout you must first warm-up. Start with 10-15 minutes of light cardio to get the blood pumping. Follow your cardio workout with dynamic stretching. Finish your warm-up with at least 60 moves of easy climbing. If you are training at home or don’t have access to climbing terrain, you can modify the climbing-specificwarm-up.

TIP #2: WORK ON STABILITY AND MOBILITY   Taking care of your body is a crucial component of climbing and training for climbing. It is important to ensure that your opposition muscles receive attention to remain strong and prevent muscle imbalances. Climbers can improve muscular balance by strengthening their shoulders and scapular region, leading to less strain on connective tissues and reduced instances of injury.

TIP #3: CLIMB OFTEN   There is no substitute fortime spent climbing. It is well-accepted that one of the best ways for new climbers to improve is to spend more time climbing. While training will definitely provide gains in strength, power, and power endurance, building baseline endurance in conjunction with good technique will make you a better climber. Besides, climbing is what you fell in love with, so don’t lose sight of that by spiralling too far into the world of training.

TIP #4: TRAINING PERIODIZATION  One of the keys to training is to shock the body by transitioning to new exercises, or phases of exercises, after a period of time. To eliminate the plateau that a body experiences after four to six weeks, climbers often apply periodization to their training.

PHASES OF  TRAINING There are four main physical training  phases: Endurance, strength, power and power endurance. A great way to put together your training schedule is through periodization. While we recommend a linear periodization program for begin-

training that may be more effective for intermediate and advanced climbers.

1. ENDURANCE  When you first start climbing you may find it hard to have a long session because of a burning sensation, known as “pump”, in your forearms. By building up your base endurance, you will improve your fitness and establish the foundation on which to build the next phases of your training. Endurance training is aerobic, as your muscles are using oxygen to complete repeated moves. There are lots of tips on how to train for endurance, but usually they involve a high volume of moves at relatively low difficulty. Your endurance training phase is a great time to focus on practicing

2. STRENGTH   There are multiple waysto train muscular strength for climbing. Recently, the training community has recognized the advantage of supplementing your strength workouts with functional weight training. Hangboarding is another popular isometric training technique that is often used to target finger strength. By hangboarding you are training your body to recruit muscles fibers more effectively while strengthening critical connective tissue. There are two general strategies that climbers use for hangboarding: repeater style exercises and max hangs.

REPEATER STYLE  A repeater style hangboard workout aims to mimic the time

“BY BUILDING UP YOUR BASE ENDUR ANCE, YOU WILL IMPROVE YOUR FITNESS  AND ESTABLISH THE FOUNDATION ON WHICH TO BUILD THE NEXT PHASES OF YOUR TRAINING.”

 HOW TO

STAY SAFE WHILE CLIMBING AUTHOR:Derek Cheng

SYSTEMS WALL

4X4

Some tools have been developed to help climbers execute super hard moves on steep terrain. A systems wall is a board with holds set in mirror image of each other on either side of the center line, allowing the climber to recreate exact positions and movements for both sides of the body. The ideal angle of a systems wall is between 20 and 35 degrees, but many boards are adjustable so that the climber can choose their desired angle of steepness.

One way to train for strength endurance is using 4x4s. Choose four boulder problems near your flash level and climb them all back to back without rest. Wait for at least five minutes and then repeat the boulder problems three more times for a total of four rounds. For best results, choose boulder problems in steep terrain.

MOON BOARD

a route. Typically hangs are 5-7 seconds long with 3 second rests in between. A variety of hold types can be used in these workouts. This method was popularized by the Anderson Brothers.

MAX HANGS For max hangs, you determine the maximum amount of weight you can add to your body to hang for 10 seconds on a large (18-20mm) edge. Hangs are done with hands in a half-crimp or open hand position, with long rests between only 3-4 reps. The benefits of max hangs are supported by research done by Eva Lopez, and one great tool for this type of training is the Transgression

3. POWER Power can be defined as force over time. Strength is required to produce a force, and when this happens quickly you have power. In climbing, the term power is usually used to describe moves that are dynamic in nature, common in bouldering or climbing in steep terrain. There are many methods that climbers use to build power.

LIMITED BOULDERING “Limit bouldering”involves attempting to do moves at or above your physical limits. Usually between one and three moves are attempted in sequence, and any set of moves may repeated multiple times.

INTERVAL TRAINING Interval training is another effective training method for strength endurance. On an overhanging wall, climb continuously for one minute and then rest for one minute. Repeat the exercise with two minute intervals, then three minute intervals, and then work back down to one minute. Repeat as desired.

 The moon board is40 degree overhung with a defined set of holds that allow climbers to set boulder problems and then share them with the greater climbing community online. In order for a moon board to be beneficial, you should first be CLIMB HARD ROUTES climbing at a minimum V5/6 level. KIM MCGRENERE A third method of working strength endurance is by climbing CAMPUSING Another strategy climbers often hard routes. Pick a route just below use to build power is campusing. your flash/onsight level and try to Many climbing gyms have campus climb it three times back to back boards available for their clientele. without resting. Routes on steep Campusing is an advanced techterrain are best. nique that can be extremely stressful 5. MENTAL TRAINING on the body, but it is very effective. Many climbers believe that 4. STRENGTH ENDURANCE  mental ability is nearly as important Strength endurance training, as physical ability. Fear is a very real commonly called power enduremotion that climbers often experiance, blends strength, power and ence and must learn to manage. endurance together, enabling the  The Rock Warrior’s Way is agreat climber to execute many difficult resource for any climber looking to moves in a row despite feeling strengthen their head game. Climbpumped. Strength endurance trains ers must also learn the role of their the anaerobic system, which kicks in ego in success and failure, and how after the body has used up oxygen to engage laser sharp focus when to the muscles. trying to send. ♦

INFO

It is known as an extreme sport, so knowing how to stay safe while climbing is essential. Poor communication, distraction while getting ready, and biting off more than you can chew have all led to accidents that have given the sport a reputation for being on the edge. But if you know what you’re doing and take appropriate safety measures, the risks in climbing can be substantially minimised, leaving you to enjoy a fun, challenging, i nspirational sport with a great community and in the most breathtaking destinations. In this article, The Adventure Junkies will walk you through some simple steps on how to stay safe while climbing.

SAFETY CHECKS Before you set off on a climb, a climber and belayer should always – always – do a round of safety checks. Even the most experienced climbers have suffered injuries that could have been prevented with a simple check. Lynn Hill, who famously freed  The Nose of El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, once took a giant 70ft fall from the top of a climb because she

had been distracted while preparing, and had failed to complete her safety knot.

SAFETY KNOT  Properly tying into the rope is vital. Climbers use different kinds of knots, but the figure-8 with a stopper knot is the most common.  The knot must pass throughthe tie-in points on the harness, usually

through both the leg loop and the waist loop. Check the harness instructions to ensure you are doing this correctly, and check the knot is properly tied before casting off.

HARNESSES AND BELAY DEVICE  Are the harnesses of the climber(s) and belayer sitting above the hips, tightened, with all appropriate

loops double backed? Is the belay device – usually an ATC or a grigri – threading the rope in the correct way (check instructions to be sure), and attached to the harness with a locking carabiner? Is the carabiner locked? You should always check that everything is properly set up by t ugging the rope, as if it were catching a fall, and seeing if the belay device

taken off belay.

catches the rope and keeps it from running freely.

ROPE AND PROTECTION 

PAY ATTENTION

Make sure it is the right rope for this type of climb, and check the sheath to make sure it is undamaged. Flake the rope at the bottom of the climb to ensure there are no knots in it, which could get snagged in the belay device at a critical, and potentially dangerous, moment. If there is a chance that the rope is not long enough, put a knot in the end of it to keep the end from unexpectedly running through the belay device, dropping the climber in the process. Finally, check that the lead climber has everything they need for the route. If it’s a sport climb, ensure they have enough quickdraws (usually three more than the number of bolts, including two for the anchor, and one extra,  just in case). If it is a traditionally-protected route, ensure they have enough protective gear, such as cams and wires.

Distracted belaying can be a major cause of accidents. Resist the urge to socialise, converse, text, or tie your shoelaces as you belay. Watch the climber at all times. Don’t give too much slack when the climber is above a ledge, or too little slack that could lead to a hard catch, and slam the climber into the rock-face. Make sure you know about z-clipping and back-clipping, or climbing with the rope behind your leg. If the lead climber does any of these things, the belayer should tell them immediately.

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER Ignorance can be a recipe for disaster. Arming yourself with knowledge is one of the best ways to assess and avoid risks, and gaining knowledge through climbing courses, or through solid mentors and real experience, is a great way to learn under safe supervision. Showing up at a crag with gear and no idea what to do is asking for trouble.

 HELMETS Many climbers don’t wear helmets on well-traveled routes, assuming that the chances of rockfall are minimal. But how stupid would it be to own a helmet, and sustain a serious head-injury while climbing because you had chosen not to use it. Be safe – wear a helmet, no matter what type of climbing you are doing.

KNOW YOUR CLIMB You can minimize risk by knowing the climb and everything you need for it. If it’s a long multi-pitch route, you may want to take a topo map of the route that you can refer to as you climb higher. The approach and descent information, especially for alpine climbs, should be well-known before setting out. Check the forecast to make sure that the chances of getting caught in a thunderstorm are slim. Risks have been amplified by climbers getting on the wrong route, going off-route while halfway up a climb, having the wrong gear or not enough gear, or not knowing how to get down.

 AVOID THE DROP ZONE  Have a look at the route, and ensure that the belayer is out of the line of fire, or can easily step out of the line of fire. A lead climber can accidently dislodge a loose rock at anytime, putting the belayer at risk of getting hit.

DESCENT  Many accidents have occurred while lowering climbers from the top of a route. One common mistake is if the climber believes he will be lowered to the ground, but the belayer believes the climber will rappel. If the climber is taken off belay and leans back, expecting to be lowered, then they will fall to the ground. Know and agree on how to descend. Repeat i t before the climber starts climbing, to ensure there is no miscommunication. Sometimes climbers have to walk off the top of a route. If so, be sure to know the descent route. Many climbers have spent cold, hungry and wet nights pinned to a wall after getting lost on the descent and not being prop-

“IF THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THE ROPE IS NOT LONG ENOUGH, PUT A KNOT IN THE END OF IT TO KEEP THE END FROM UNEXPECTEDLY RUNNING THROUGH THE B ELAY DEVICE, DROPPING THE CLIMBER IN THE PROCESS.”

KNOW YOURSELF AND YOUR PARTNER Overconfidence is a major cause of accidents. Know your own abilities and don’t overreach. If you want to climb El Cap in Yosemite, it is probably best to try something smaller first to hone your multi-pitch skills and, depending on how you want to climb, your aid and hauling skills. A climber’s partnership with a belayer is sacrosanct. Numerous accidents have occurred from people climbing with strangers. If you don’t know who you’re climbing with, don’t be afraid to ask them to demonstrate to you that they know what they’re doing. Give them a rope and a belay device, and ask them to show you their belaying skil ls.

KIM MCGRENERE

erly prepared.

COMMUNICATE CLEARLY Accidents can happen due to poor communication, such as the previous example about confusion over how to descend. Miscommunication has also lead to belayers taking their lead climbers off belay before they have finished the climb. Know your calls, and shout them clearly. “Take”means the belayer should take in rope slack. “Slack”means to give more rope slack. “Secure”or “off-belay”means the climber has anchored to the wall and can be taken off belay. If there are other people around you, use names to avoid confusion that could lead to a potentially fatal scenario. For multi-pitch climbs, or routes where the climber will rappel down, “secure”or “off-belay”are extremely important calls, as they indicate to the belayer that they can remove the rope from the belay device. But the belayer should be absolutely certain that the climber is secure before doing this. Misheard calls can lead to the climber being taken off belay while they are still climbing, essentially turning the climber into a free -soloist, carrying a rope, and facing a potentially fatal accident if they fell. Various calls are used, so make sure both the climber and belayer agree to have consistent calls, and consistent responses. Have a plan for communicating if you can’t hear each other. (Very windy routes, for example, can sometimes make it impossible to hear). Three tugs on the rope is a common

MORE TIPS TO MINIMIZE RISK  If you are climbing a big wall, ensure you have enough gear to descend if you need to from anywhere on the climb. Basic first aid kits and headlamps are also essentials for long climbs. Carry a cellphone, or a satellite GPS distress-signal device such as a Spot or InReach, in case of emergency. Also, tell someone where you are going, so they know where you were headed if disaster struck and you didn’t come home when you were supposed to. ♦

a few minutes before moving on to the next set. When you’re done, stretch. Do this twice a week, taking 48 hours to 72 hours in between workouts to ensure that your fingers receive adequate rest.

 HOW TO INCREASE

FINGER STRENGTH AUTHOR: Derek Cheng

UP THE DOSE After a few weeks, you will probably find that that last repetition isn’t bringing you as close to failure as it did in the first week. If this is the case, it’s time to increase the weight, either by using a weightvest, or simply by wearing a harness and clipping some heavy gear to it. You want to increase the weight by about 5 per cent per month. Remember – doing too much, too soon, is a recipe for injury. When your training becomes far more advanced, you can play with hanging off three fingers, or two, or one. The principles remain the same – look to be close to failure on the last repetition.

INFO

How to increase finger strength is one of the most common questions when it comes to improving your rock climbing. You may have forearms like tree trunks, biceps like mountains, and colossal shoulders, but without fingers of steel, you’ll struggle to hold on to all manner of holds – jugs, slopers, crimps, pockets. Stronger fingers also improves stamina and the ability to rest on smaller holds. But what is the best way to strengthen your digits, and not get injured? The Adventure Junkies is here to walk you through finger and hand anatomy, and tell you how to increase finger strength.

KNOW YOUR FINGER ANATOMY  There are no muscles in your fingers, only tendons that attach to muscles in the hand and forearms. This means that working on finger strength also works on the muscles and ligaments in your hands, wrists and forearms.  The tendons in your fingers are connected to bone via aseries of connective tissues, known as pulleys. A pulley injury is one of the most common forms of climbing injury, as the tendons and pulleys try to hold a great deal of force, particularly when crimping. There are a number of pulleys, but the one that is under strain the most while climbing, and is injured the most, is the A2 pulley, located between the hand and the first knuckle. It is important to remember that tendons, l igaments and pulleys take longer than muscles to adapt and become stronger, so slow and steady progress is the key. Trying to do too much, too quickly, is a recipe for inj ury.

 GET STRONGER – CLIMB MORE Especially when starting out, climbing at your limit and pushing yourself steadily will, over time, build muscle and tendon strength. The best initial strategy is to simply climb a lot, and boulder in particular. Bouldering is the discipline of climbing that focuses on hard problems, meaning that you are often pushing the limits of your strength. As you progress, you might try harder problems and find that you simply don’t have the base strength to do certain moves. Then it’s time to look at hangboard training.

GET STRONGER – HANGBOARD TRAINING Most forms of finger-strength training involve a hangboard of some kind.

CAMPUS TRAINING Hangboards have a number of different holds on which you can do pull-ups or dead-hangs, all designed to make you stronger. There are several different kinds of hangboards, and you’ll probably find a selection of them at your local climbing gym. Different training programs exist, and you may find that some suit you more than others. The general rule is to start slowly, and add more weight over a period of several weeks. There are different thoughts as to whether to use a sloping open hand, half-crimp or full crimp position while training on small holds. The half- and full-crimp positions hyper-extend the fingers and put added strain on the tendons and pulleys, risking injury. Some say you should train all three, because you will likely be using all three while climbing. Others say that training open hand will increase your finger strength enough for all three crimp positions, without unduly risking injury.

 BUILD ISOMETRIC STRENGTH Isometric strength is the kind that you build by holding static positions. Fingers tend to stay in the same place once you have gripped a hold, so finger-training tends to focus on holding dead-hangs for several seconds. An important step in injury prevention is to ensure that you warm up properly – do some push-ups, jumping-jacks, and pull-ups on the l arge holds. If you’re in a climbing gym, do some ge ntle bouldering. When you’re ready to begin, remember that it is important to be near maximum effort to build strength. Most training programs advocate doing several dead-hang sets with an open-hand position on a variety of small holds – crimps, pockets, slopers. Choose a circuit of about 10 holds, and start on the smallest one. Deadhang for five to 10 seconds, and then rest for a similar amount of time. (Some say hang for seven seconds, rest for three, while others say hang for 10 seconds, then rest for 30). Repeat, on the same hold, five or six times. You’re doing the right amount if you are close to failure on the last repetition. After your first set, take a break of a few minutes before starting the next set on a different hold. Cycle through all the holds in your circuit, resting for

 This is a form oftraining using dynamic movement. It should only be considered if you are at an advanced level – if not, your body is likely to get injured. It is designed to develop raw power, using a campus board – a column of several horizontal wooden rungs on an overhanging wall.  There are many exercises,but the most common is “ladders”. Using an open hand position, start by hanging with both hands on the same piece of wood. Pull up and reach one of your hands to the next wooden rung, and then leap frog your other hand to the rung above it. Move up the board and then back down in one set, and then rest for a few minutes. Do three sets. As you get stronger, you can skip two, three, or even more rungs in a single movement, and do as many as 10 sets. But if you feel any  joint, tendon or finger pain during campusing, you should stop immediately. Like isometric training, you should campus-train no more than two times a week, and only after a thorough warm-up. Finish with stretching.

EXTRA TIPS TO INCREASE FINGER STRENGTH 1. HANG PROPERLY  When dead-hanging, be sure to keep your core tight, elbows slightly bent, and shoulders engaged – squeeze your shoulder blades together slightly. If you don’t engage your shoulders, you are resting your weight on your skeleton and putting undue stress on the soft tissues that connect the bones in the shoulder, which could lead to tissue-related injuries.

2. EASING THE WEIGHT  If you’re just starting and find that you can’t hold a dead-hang for longer than three seconds, you can lessen the weight on your fingers by placing your feet on a box or chair. Remember to keep your core engaged and don’t allow your body to sag.

 3. GO SLOWLY  As I’ve said many times, don’t try and become the Hulk overnight. Tendons and ligaments develop much more slowly than muscles, so trying to strengthen them too quickly is only going to lead to injury. ♦

 THANKS

FOR READING

We would like to thank you again for taking the time to check out the Climbing Quick Starter Guide! We hope you’ve found some value in it and can use it as a guide to help you get into climbing and explore the outdoors. Lots of great adventures are lying ahead waiting for you! If for whatever reason you got this guide without ever subscribing to our email list (which is totally okay because we realize people love to share things like this), then please head on over to TheAdventureJunkies.com and subscribe to our email list there. We would also suggest you to check out the other Quick Starter Guides for climbing, scuba diving, and bicycle touring. And lastly, if you enjoyed this book, please feel free to share it on  Twitter or Facebook . Cheers, best of luck and we look forward to helping you out again soon!

Antonio & Amanda Founders of The Adventure Junkies