FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02 24/11/2006
TEMA GROUP
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
1. FOREWORD Tema Group Fabric Quality Handbook has been prepared for the purpose of defining the tests, which must be carried out on the fabric that we will use in our products, the standards and the tolerances that pertain to such tests and the rules as to how these tests will be carried out. Fabric Quality Handbook will also be referred to as a document wherein our standards are specified for our fabric suppliers. The standards of the products that our suppliers will produce for us must be within the tolerance limits appearing in this handbook. Fabric Quality Handbook is valid with Oekotex 100 standards. At common tests, the standards prevailing in Tema Group Fabric Quality Handbook will be taken. For tests that are not included in the Handbook, Oekotex 100 test standards and values will prevail. We expect supplied products and fabrics will meet Oekotex 100 standards. In chapter one, the method of use of the Fabric Quality Handbook is explained. Chapter two contains the instructions where the purpose of doing fastness tests depicted in Table 3 in detail, materials and tools, which will be used during the tests as well as the method of doing tests are explained in detail. Chapter three contains the instructions where the purpose of doing physical tests depicted in Tables a and 5 in detail, materials and tools, which will be used during the tests as well as the method of doing tests are explained in detail. This chapter serves more to the standardization standardization of the tests that we do at Tema Group Laboratories. The annexes of the Fabric Quality Handbook incorporate various tables and forms. These tables and forms are used for the following purposes. Table 1 shows the tests that must be done on woven fabric on product basis. Table 2 depicts the tests that must be done on knitted fabric on the basis of fabric composition. Table 3 contains the fastness tests that must be done considering fabric compositions and the information as tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests. Table 4 contains the physical tests that must be done on woven fabric and the information as tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests. This table was designed considering fabric compositions. Table 5 contains the physical tests that must be done on knitted fabric and the information as tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests. This table was designed considering fabric compositions. Chapter 7 deals with ecological test standards. It contains requested ecological test values and the ecological standards that are used for defining these values. However, since there is not a generally accepted international test method in defining some values, these tests will be done using the “in-house” methods of the relevant laboratories.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
2. USE OF THE HANDBOOK • Fabric Quality Handbook will be used within Tema Group. Fabric purchasing will be evaluated under the framework of laboratory and fabric delivery and control procedures. • While fabric is ordered to suppliers, the tests that are required for particular a product or fabric depicted in Table 1 and 2 will be identified. • Even if the tests in Table 1 and Table 2 were not required from suppliers while order was being placed, it is under the supplier’s responsibility to deliver products having the tolerance limits depicted in Tables 3, 4 and 5. • The tests that will be required from the laboratory after the ordered fabric fabric has arrived at warehouse will be defined considering Table 1 and Table 2. • Laboratory findings will be assessed by Product Responsible considering Table 3, Table 4 and Table 5 • You can refer to the last chapter of the handbook for ecological test standards.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
1. FOREWORD ............................................ .................................................................................. ...................................... 2 2. USE OF THE HANDBOOK ........................................... .................................................................. ....................... 3 3. FASTNESS TESTS .......................................... .......................................................................... ................................ 5 3.1. PRINT DURABILITY HT08 .................................................................................. ........................................ ........................................................................... ................................. 6 3.2. POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT14............................................ FT14 ..................................................................................... ........................................................... .................. 7 3.3. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT09.................................................. HT09....... ........................................................... ................ 8 3.4. CROSS STAINING HT12 .............................................. ............................................................................................ .......................................................................10 .........................10 4. PHYSICAL TESTS ........................................ .......................................................................... .................................. 11 4.1. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE TEST / (FABRIC SAGGING) FT20..................................................12 4.2. ELASTICITY FT07.................................................................................................................................13 4.3. SPIRALITY TEST FT03........................................................................................................................15 4.4. PERMANENT ELONGATION FT11.....................................................................................................17 4.5. TRIPLE WASH TEST FT18 ......................................................................................... ........................................... .......................................................................19 .........................19 4.6. BAGGING TEST FT19...........................................................................................................................20 5. TABLES.................................................................. TABLES...................................................................................... .................... 22 5.1. TABLE 1: TESTS REQUIRED ON WOVEN FABRIC AS PER PRODUCT TYPE ...................... 23 5.2. TABLE 2. TESTS REQUIRED ON KNITTED FABRIC AS PER FABRIC TYPE......................25 5.3. TABLE 3. FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (1/4)................................................26 5.4. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (2/4)...............................................27 5.5. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (3/4)...............................................28 5.6. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (4/4)...............................................29 5.7. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (1/2) ........................ 30 5.8. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (2/2).........................31 5.9. TABLE 5 : PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (1/4)....................32 5.10. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (2/4)...................33 5.11. TABLE 5: 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (3/4) ................... 34 5.12. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (4/4)...................35 5.13. TABLE 6: REFERENCES OF STANDARDS AND REQUIRED SAMPLE SAMPLE QUANTITIES ...36 6. ADDITIONAL ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS........................................................... INSTRUCTIONS........................................................... 38 6.1. SPECIAL INSTRUCTION IN LIGHT PERSPIRATION FASTNESS ....................................... ..................................... ..39 39 7. ECOLOGICAL TESTS ......................................... ....................................................................... .............................. 40 7.1. ECOLOGICAL TESTS ..................................................................................... ........................................... .................................................................................. ........................................41 41 7.2. ECOLOGICAL TEST STANDARDS ......................................................................................... ............................................ ....................................................... ..........42 42 7.3. ECOLOGICAL TESTS REFERENCES ....................................................................................... ......................................... ....................................................... .........44 44 7.4. TABLE OF THE ECOLOGICAL TESTS ACCORDING ACCORDING TO MATERIAL COMPOSITION ....49 .... 49 7.5. CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES.........................................................................................................50 7.6. TRIMMINGS: TABLE OF TESTS ACCORDING TO USED MATERIALS ...............................51 ............................... 51
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
3. FASTNESS TESTS
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
3.1. PRINT DURABILITY HT08
NAME OF TEST CODE
PRINT DURABILITY
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 9
HT-08
3.1.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining colour change, wear and stain made by other colours that might occur after wash and use of the products, for which production printed fabric is used or which are piece-printed. 3.1.2. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED
Front loaded washing machine Grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03) White Polyester fabrics 20±4 x 20±4, 50±5g in weight Colourmatic detergent Softener Tumble Drier 3.1.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
For this test finished sewn products are used Weight of the finished product is increased to 2 kg by adding white polyester fabrics each 50g weigth. Wash temperature is set to 50C. 50 g of colourmatic detergent and 50 g of softener is added to the compartments of the front loaded washing machine. The washing machine is run at short wash-program. The washing cycle is repeated two more times. There is no need for drying between washing cycles. Following the last washing cycle sample is hung to dry. It can also be dried by reversing it so that printing direction faces inward. 3.1.4. EVALUATION
Evaluation process will include assessment of change of printing at folding and sews, greasing of the base fabric, greasing of print colours and general appearance of print, using grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03). 3.1.5. REPORTING
The findings about the print based on the above identified 4 criteria and the pass/fail ratings appearing in the quality handbook will be individually noted.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
3.2. POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT14
NAME OF TEST CODE
POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT- 14
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 10
3.2.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining post-wash colour change and staining of the product, which is washed in domestic washing machines. 3.2.2. MATERIALS TO BE USED
Domestic washing machine Tumble Drier Grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03) White Polyester fabrics 20±4 x 20±4, 50±5g in weight 3.2.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
A- If the sample is a sewn product, it will be weighted and completed up to 2 kg with 100% white Polyester fabrics, weights in 50g. The product is washed and dried according to the washing instructions on its label. Before washing cycle is started, pieces will be cut out from the product in order to make a later comparison if the product contains contrast colours. B - If the sample is a fabric, a piece of 30x30 cm is taken on which contract colours appear and four edges are over locked. l ocked. Another piece is taken having the same contrast colours for control purposes. The sample is weighted and completed to 2 kg with 100% polyester fabric. At TGKKEK and depending on fabric type, it is washed and dried at a short program with no pre-wash cycle at the temperature specified at FT01. 50 g Ariel and 50 g softener is used for washing, If the fabric weight is over 2 kg, test is done without uploading adding fabrics. 3.2.4. EVALUATION
Evaluation is done at a dark room under D65 daylight on grey scales Grey scale (ISO 105 A02ISO 105 A03 ) . Findings are compared with the values at TGKKEK. If a sewn product has been tested, the sample is delivered to the unit concerned inch order to assess the other appearances on
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
3.3. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT09
NAME OF TEST CODE
COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT-09
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 5
3.3.1. PURPOSE
This test is done in order to assess the change that will likely occur on fabric within it is exposed to light after detergent washing. 3.3.2. MATERIALS USED
ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate Polyethylene foil not containing BHT Air cooled Xenon Arc Lamp (complying to ISO 105 B02) Colour change grey grey scale ( ISO 105 A02) A02) Blue wool (Blue wool scales of number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5) 3.3.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
The sample fabric to be tested will have the minimum size 45 mm x 10 mm. Preparation of solution: 4g/lt ECE (B) + 1 g/lt Sodium Perborate will be dissolved in 1 lt water at 50°C (+ - 2°C). The sample is soaked into the prepared solution as it was explained in related sample soak section in ISO 105 B07 and the sample is wrapped with special polyethylene not containing BHT in single layer. The polyethylene layer at the back of the sample will overlap like a cover. This part will be taped airtight.
Polyethylene
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
The sample is inserted in a carton containing no optics and the protruding ends of polyethylene are taped on the back of the box.
It is tested for 5 hours for woven fabrics and 3 hours for knitted fabrics at light fastness tester as per ISO 105 B02. Samples are removed from polyethylene. When removed the samples must be wet. If samples get dry during test, the test should be repeated. Samples are left for drying in a dark room. 3.3.4. EVALUATION
Dried samples are evaluated on grey scale ( ISO 105 A02) under D65 light in light cabin. 3.3.5. REPORTING
Test findings will be put down on the test results form.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
3.4. CROSS STAINING HT12
NAME OF TEST CODE
CROSS STAINING HT-12
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 13
3.4.1 PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining colour staining of contrast c olours within the same product, after washing and keeping wet. 3.4.2 MATERIALS TO BE USED
Apparatus of CF to Washing; Gyrowash Perspirometer, Perspirometer, Acrylic Plates, Stove, Light Cabinet, Magnetic Mixer, Balance, ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate, Gray Scale of Staining (ISO 105 A03).
3.4.3 CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Two sets of fabric samples are cut from light coloured fabric as in the measure of 40x110 mm and dark coloured fabric as 40x100 mm (Due to the net visibility of staining of dark colours on the light coloured fabric, the dark coloured fabrics are cut smaller than the light coloured fabrics). Light and dark coloured fabric samples are sewn from the short edges with overlock stitching whilst the front faces of samples are being being contacted. CF to washing test (ISO 105 C06) C06) is performed at one of the prepared sample according to composition of the dark coloured fabrics’ washing temperature as stated at TGKKEK. ISO 105 E01 washing test is performed to the other test sample. In this method; main differences from the standards is that using contrast coloured fabric instead of using adjacent multifibre fabric. Conducts of the tests, c onditions and all other
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4. PHYSICAL TESTS
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4.1. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE TEST / (FABRIC SAGGING) FT20
NAME DIMENSIONAL CHANGE OF TEST TEST/ (FABRIC SAGGING) CODE FT-20
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 11
4.1.1. PURPOSE
This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of knitted fabrics which influenced by various physical effects. 4.1.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Metal ruler Pen, suitable for writing on fabrics Mechanism for hanging fabrics Marker pen Scissors 4.1.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Test sample is taken at least 2.5 meters from the beginning of fabric rolls. By using template, fabric sample is marked with a marker pen at the size of 50 x 50 cm. Fabric is cut on the marked line with a tolerance of + 5 cm. Test sample is hung equally folded onto a stretched rope in the longitudinal direction of knit. Test sample is kept hung for 24 hours (in emergency it must be kept at least for 4 hours). Test sample is smoothly laid on the table, after waiting time.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4.2. ELASTICITY FT07
NAME OF TEST CODE
ELASTICITY
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 2
FT-07
4.2.1. PURPOSE
This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of woven fabric containing elastic material towards the direction of the elastic material. 4.2.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Tensile Strength Tester (with the below components) “Load cell” with 0-600 N measuring range. range. Sample holding jaws, suitable for elastic fabric at the width 5 cm. Software capable to display test period and speed. Marking pen Scissors 4.2.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Sample Preparation: If the sample fabric “Warp “ Warp Elastic” or “Weft Elastic” fabric, 3 samples are prepared in elastic direction. If the fabric is elastic in both directions, totally totally 6 samples are prepared, 3 in warp and 3 in weft. If possible samples must be taken diagonally so as to avoid containing the same weft and/or
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
For fabrics having elastic material in both directions, elongation in one direction must be higher than the level which stated in related Table (Table 4), (Tolerance 10%). If the elongation of the fabric is lower than these levels, test is evaluated as “Fail”. 4.2.5. REPORTING
Test results, the arithmetic mea of elongations of 3 samples will be put down in the test results form specifying test direction.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4.3. SPIRALITY TEST FT03
NAME OF TEST CODE
SPIRALITY TEST FT-03
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 6
4.3.1. PURPOSE
Determination of deformation in the fabric that occurs after washing in particular. 4.3.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Front loaded washing machine. Metal ruler. Marking template and ruler. 4.3.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
The sample fabric to be tested will be conditioned for 4 hours before the test. Test sample will not be taken from either end of roll. Sample must be taken at 2.5 meters inward at least. Fabric is folded in the middle with folded edges aligned. Anti-Shrinkage template is placed on the fabric at a distance from the edge of the fabric of at least 10% of its width. Figures on the template are marked. Weft and warp directions are identified. A line will be drawn at the outer edge of the template using a permanent ink pen. Edges will be cut without any round corner to obtain a square at size 50x50 cm. 3 edges of the fabric are over locked. The bottom edge is left open and then over locked. Lot number, drying method and wash temperature are written on the right bottom corner of the fabric.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4.3.4. EVALUATION
The value obtained by using the table depending whether the fabric is woven or knitted is compared with target value. 4.3.5. REPORTING
The values obtained are put down in the test results report.
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4.4. PERMANENT ELONGATION FT11
NAME OF TEST CODE
PERMANENT ELONGATION
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 3
FT-11
4.4.1. PURPOSE
This test is done in order to measure permanent elongations of elastic woven fabric under constant loads. Before this test, fabric must have undergone elasticity test because the elasticity value found at that must be used. Note: If 80% of elasticity of fabric is more than 35%, elongation value to be used at permanent elongation test will be limited to 35%. A fabric which found with 45% elasticity will be used with the value of 35 %elasticity for this test (%45*%80=%36 (%45*%80=%36 > %35). Permanent elongation is the elongation in percentage of woven fabric containing elastic
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
As previously calculated, fabric is elongated by pulling downwards until it reaches at the elongation value of 80%. After 30 minutes fabric is released and left in a flat place. After 60 minutes, distance between marked points is measured and permanent elongation is calculated by the following formula: % permanent elongation = (L2-L) x 100 / L L2 = The ultimate value measured between marked points L = Initial value measured between marked points 4.4.4. EVALUATION
Findings are evaluated using relevant tables. 4.4.5. REPORTING
Findings will be put down in the test results form together with the pass/fail remark including
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4.5. TRIPLE WASH TEST FT18
NAME OF TEST CODE
TRIPLE WASH TEST
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 7
FT-18
4.5.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining the post-wash deterioration at quality and appearance of coated and adhesive products that are washed at domestic type washing machines. 4.5.2. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT TO BE USED
Domestic type washing machine Thumble drier (unless otherwise mentioned in washing instructions) White cotton fabric of 110-130 g/m 2 . White Polyester fabrics 20±4 x 20±4, 50±5g in weight
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
4.6. BAGGING TEST FT19
NAME OF TEST CODE
BAGGING
REFERENCE STANDARD TEMA METHOD 11
FT-19
4.6.1. PURPOSE
This standard pertains determination of the strength of woven fabric again bagging or elongation because of wearing. 4.6.2. EQUIPMENT TO BE USED
- Special holders as in Figure 1 - Ruler with Millimeter scale - Weights of 900 grams, 1800 grams, 2250 grams - A hanger or a hanger board having wedges for keeping samples in vertical position (figure
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
The special holder will then be removed from the bottom edge and permanent elongation after five minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours with reference to previously marked 25 cm length will be calculated by the following formula: LK= Permanent Elongation % Permanent Elongation = (LK - L)*100/L
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5. TABLES
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.1. TABLE 1: TESTS REQUIRED ON WOVEN FABRIC AS PER PRODUCT TYPE
S T S E T F O S E M A N
O O O O O T T T T T S S S N S S G S S S S S N E O E G E E G E I N N N R N I N N T N T I T E T A T N T A I S S H S T S R S B A S A A A I A B A E L F P F A F W F U F C S R R R R R Y R R U W U U E U U R O O O O D L P O L L L L O O O O O C C C C C
O T S S E N T T H S G A I F L R U O L O C
O N T O S I S T E A S S N R T I E S P N T A S R F E S R P A U T F O H L G O I C L
1 0 T H
2 0 T H
3 0 T H
4 0 T H
5 0 T H
6 0 T H
7 0 T H
6 0 C 5 0 1
1 0 E 5 0 1
4 0 E 5 0 1
O S I
2 1 X 5 0 1 O S I
1 0 D 5 0 1 O S I
2 0 B 5 0 1
O S I
O S I
O S I
Y T I L I B A R U D T N I R P
O O R O T T T E T T S S H S A G S S R S I E L E W E E N I N D N T T T T A S L S E S T A W A A A A F K L F N F A R A R I R E U T U R U S O E O O O L L L L O W O H O C C C C
7 0 B 5 0 1
8 0 T H 9 D O H T E M A M E T
9 0 T H 5 D O H T E M A M E T
O S I
0 1 T H
1 1 T H
3 0 E 5 0 1
2 0 E 5 0 1
O S I
G N I H L S A A N W T O H I G S O T I N E E Y T W M I I L D I B A T S 1 2 1 0 2 0 T T T H F F G N I N I A T S S S O R C
D O H 9 0 T 5 3 3 E 3 7 3 6 M 1 O O O A S S S M I I I E T
1 0 8 3 O S I
Y T I L A R I P S
3 0 T F 6 D O H T E M A M E T
G N I L L I P
H T G N E R T S E L I S N E T
4 0 T F
6 0 T F
1 5 4 9 2 1 O S I
2 4 3 9 3 1 O S I
Y T I C I T S A L E
7 0 T F 2 D O H T E M A M E T
E G A P P I L S M A E S
N O I S S A R B A
T E V L E V N O S S O L E L I P
8 0 T F
9 0 T F
0 1 T F
1 6 3 9 3 1 O S I
2 7 4 9 2 1 O S I
3 9 C C T A A
Y L R T N A D G O N N O E I O T N I Y I N T S N A A T A G N I M N E L E R O I L E L M C B P E I A D T S 1 1 T F 3 D O H T E M A M E T
2 1 T F 8 D O H T E M A M E T
G N I L L E P E R R E T A W
H E S C N A A W - R T A E S P O P P A
H T G N E R T S R A E T
Y R E V O C E E L R G E N L K A N I R W
F O O R P R E T A W
H S A W D E L P I R T
3 1 T F
4 1 T F
5 1 T F
6 1 T F
7 1 T F
0 2 9 4 O S I
D O H T E 0 M 1 A M E T
1 7 3 9 3 1 O S I
3 1 3 2 2 N E S B
1 1 8 O S I
8 1 T F 7 D O H T E M A M E T
) G ) G G G N N I N I N I L I V L V E O G O P G R R R A P L P B M I M I ( I ( O
9 1 T F
1 2 T F
D O H T E 2 M 1 A M E T
8 1 1 C C T A A
1
SHIRTS AND BLOUSES
A
A
A
A
D
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
H
D
E
A
J
M
P
2
SKIRTS AND DRESSES
A
A
A
A
D
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
H
D
E
A
J
M
P
TROUSERS SHORTS
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.1.1. EXPLANATIONS OF TABLE 1
CODE A B C D E F G H J M
REMARKS Each lot is tested, Each colour is tested, Only printed (in meter or in part) products and fabrics are tested, Fabrics to be dry cleaned as per label instructions will be tested, Tested if product has a contrast colour, Blended and brushed fabrics are tested. Velvets are not tested, Tested if it contains elastic yarn, Only velvets are tested. Testing a single colour will be sufficient, Tested if “Easy care or Non-iron” treatment is made, It is required for “Bonded and Coated” fabrics,
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.2. TABLE 2. TESTS REQUIRED ON KNITTED FABRIC AS PER FABRIC TYPE S T S E T
L A O T G N Y O T N I I S I L H N I S E B A M A I T W D S
FT01
No
FABRIC TYPES
0 9 3 5 3 7 6 3 O O S S I I
T H G I E W
FT02 1 0 8 3 O S I
T I L A R I P S Y
FT03 0 3 3 6 O S I
G N I L L I P
H T G N E R T S G N I T S R U B
S S O L E L I P
FT04
FT05
1 5 4 9 2 1 O S I
2 8 3 9 3 1
O S I
O T S S E G N N T I S H A S F A R U W O L O C
O T S S E N R T E S T A A F W R U O L O C
O T S N S O E I N T T S A A R I F P R S R U E O P L O C
O T S S E G N N T S I A B B F U R R U O L O C
O T S G S N E I N N T S A A E L F C R Y U R O D L O C
O T S S E N T T H S G A I F L R U O L O C
O T S S S N E D O N N I T A T S A A T H R I F G P R I S L U R E O P L O C
Y T I L I B A R U D T N I R P
O T T S H G S I E L N I T L S A A F K L R A U T O E L W O C
O R T E T S A S E W N D T S E T A A F N R I R U O O L L O H C C
O T S S R E E N T T S A A W F E R A U S O L O C
G N I N I A T S S S O R C
HT01
HT02
HT03 HT03
HT04 HT04
HT05
HT06
HT07
HT08
HT09
HT10
HT11
HT12
9 D O H T E M A M E T
5 D O H T E M A M E T
3 0 E 5 0 1
2 0 E 5 0 1
G N E I G N A A K E N L I C R Y H R S D
H E S C N A A W - R T A E S P O P P A
G N I G G A S C I R B A F
FT10
FT12
FT14
FT20
3 9 C C T A A
8 D O H T E M A M E T
0 1 D O H T E M A M E T
1 1 D O H T E M A M E T
6 0 C 5 0 1 O S I
1 0 E 5 0 1
4 0 E 5 0 1
O S I
2 1 X 5 0 1 O S I
X
X
X
X
1
100% COTTON FABRICS
X
X
X
X
X
X
2
COTTON POLYESTER OR COTTON ACRYLIC FABRICS (MELANJ)
X
X
X
X
X
X
3
COTTON LYCRA BLEND FABRICS
X
X
X
X
X
X
O S I
1 0 D 5 0 1 O S I
2 0 B 5 0 1
7 0 B 5 0 1
X
X
O S I
O S I
X
O S I
O S I
3 1 D O H T E M A M E T
X X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.3. TABLE 3. FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (1/4)
TEST PERF CODE
COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING
COLOUR FASTNESS TO WATER
HT01
HT02
FABRIC BLENDS
ISO 105 C06
COLOUR COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR FASTNESS TO TO RUBBING (DRY FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION ONLY) LIGHT HT03
HT04
HT06
COLOUR FASTNESS TO LIGHT AND PERSPIRATION (SEE BELOW)
COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT
HT07
HT09
HT12
CROSS STAINING
ISO 105 E01
ISO 105 E04
ISO 105 X12
ISO 105 B02
ISO 105 B07
TEMA METHOD 5
TEMA METHOD 13
0
TRH01
100% COTTON
50 C B2S S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH02
POLYESTER, NYLON AND BLENDS
400 C A2S S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH03
LINEN, VISCOSE, ACETATE AND BLENDS
400 C A2S S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
C 3/4
C4
S4/5
TRH04
WOOL AND BLENDS
400 C A2S S3/4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S 4, C 4
S4
C4
Not Required
C4
S4/5
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.4. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (2/4) COLOUR FASTNESS TO
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
POST-WASH
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.5. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (3/4) COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR FASTNESS TO
COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
COLOUR FASTNESS
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.6. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (4/4) COLOUR FASTNESS TO
COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR FASTNESS TO DRY
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.7. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (1/2) DIMENSIONAL
WRINKLE RECOVERY
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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02
5.8. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (2/2) ELAST İ İTY
SPIRAL
WEIGHT
PILE
PERMANENT
DRY CLEANING
WATER
WATER
TRIPLED
BAGGING
OIL
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.
Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
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Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.
Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.
Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.
Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.
Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.
Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.
Trusted by over 1 million members
Try Scribd FREE for 30 days to access over 125 million titles without ads or interruptions! Start Free Trial Cancel Anytime.