Gap Quality Manual

Gap Inc. Gap Banana Republic Old Navy

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To All Gap, Inc. Vendors, Attached is the February 2001 QA Manual for Garments, for use as a guide to auditing all Gap Inc. programs. Following is an outline of the changes that were made from the previous version of the manual: • • • • • • • • • •

In-line and Interim inspections have been combined and are now called In-process inspections. Forms have been changed to global forms. Country of Origin information is no longer included in the QA manual the information is in the Vendor handbook. Shipment/Packing audit has changed to allow for non-destructive audits. Added bar-coded ticket OCR ticket/label check into visual audit. Measurement sampling plan has changed. Pack audits are now the responsibility of the Vendor. Change in the sampling plan for outlet. We have eliminated the double sampling plan. We have added a section for how to audit tight fitting sleepwear.

It is imperative to retrain your teams and utilize the new handbook effective March 1st, 2001 to audit our products. Should you have any questions please contact me directly at (415) 427-6489.

Doreen Maller Vice President, Technical Services/Product Integrity/Global QA

Quality Assurance Manual Garments 2001 (A Supplement to the Vendor Handbook)

Table of Contents page #

Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 4 Contacts................................................................................................................................. 5

I.

Factory Visit Procedures Preparation .................................................................................................................... 7

II.

Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.) What is A.Q.L.? ............................................................................................................ 8 Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards ....................................................................................... 8 Critical Defects ........................................................................................................... 8 Result of Finding A Critical Defect .......................................................................... 8

III.

In-Process Inspection Purpose........................................................................................................................... 9 In-Process Inspection Forms ..................................................................................... 9 Cutting Inspection Procedures ................................................................................. 9 Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures.................................................................... 10

IV. Shipment Inspection Purpose........................................................................................................................... 12 Shipment Inspection Forms ....................................................................................... 12 Shipment Inspection Methods................................................................................... 12 Measurement Audit ..................................................................................................... 13 Measurement Audit Procedures....................................................................... 13 “Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures ........................ 13 Measurement Audit Sampling Plan ................................................................... 14 Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects ......................................... 14 Visual Audit.................................................................................................................... 15 Visual Audit Methods........................................................................................... 15 Visual Audit Reference Sheets (Classification of Visual Defects).............. 15 Visual Audit Sampling Plans ................................................................................ 15 Visual Audit Procedures...................................................................................... 16 Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits .............................................. 18 Gap/Old Navy Procedures................................................................................. 18 Banana Republic Procedures.............................................................................. 19 Gap Asia Auditing Procedures.................................................................................. 19 Seconds & Overruns ................................................................................................... 19 Pack Audit...................................................................................................................... 20 Pack Audit Procedures........................................................................................ 20 Pack Audit Sampling Plan .................................................................................... 21 Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs .............................................................. 22 Full Carton/CD Flow Auditing Procedures.................................................... 22 Japanese Purchase Order Auditing Procedures.................................................... 23 Outlet Division Standards.......................................................................................... 24 Outlet Auditing Forms................................................................................................ 24 Table of Contents Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

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Table of Contents (con’t) page # Outlet Auditing Types................................................................................................. 24 Outlet Auditing Procedures ...................................................................................... 24 Seconds & Overruns ................................................................................................... 24 Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet ................................. 25 Outlet Defects Classification Guide..............................................................................25

V.

Safety Procedures Safety Procedures, kids & baby................................................................................. 26

VI. Broken Needle Standards Broken Needle Forms ................................................................................................ 27 Broken Needle Procedures....................................................................................... 27 Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures ........................................ 27

VII. Country of Origin (Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................ 29

VIII. Carton/Prepack (Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................ 30

IX. Appendix 1 (General Forms) In-Process Inspection Report.................................................................................... AI-2 Visual Inspection Worksheet .................................................................................... AI-3 In-Process Audit Worksheet .................................................................................... AI-4 In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report............................................................... AI-5 Visual Inspection Report ............................................................................................ AI-6 Finished Product Measurement Sheet..................................................................... AI-8 Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops)....................................................... AI-9 Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) ................................................ AI-10 Outlet Inspection Report........................................................................................... AI-11 Broken Needle Log ..................................................................................................... AI-12 Box Audit Worksheet ................................................................................................ AI-13

X.

Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects) Woven and Knit Dresses / Jump-suits / Coats / Jackets .................................... AII-2 Knit Tops and Activewear ......................................................................................... AII-6 Woven Shirts ................................................................................................................ AII-10 Denim Shirts.................................................................................................................. AII-13 Sweaters ......................................................................................................................... AII-16 Woven Bottoms........................................................................................................... AII-18 Denim Bottoms ............................................................................................................ AII-22 Blazers............................................................................................................................. AII-26 Bras & Bodysuits........................................................................................................... AII-29 Underwear..................................................................................................................... AII-32

Table of Contents Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

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Introduction The purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to outline the procedures Quality Assurance personnel (QA) follow when measuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture Gap Inc. products. This Manual will guide QA through each stage of their assignment: new production, monitoring production, performing In-process and shipment audits and, finally, communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives. In addition to serving as a guide for Gap Inc. QA, this Manual was created to ensure vendors understand Gap Inc.’s expectations in categories such as product’s visual appearance, measurement accuracy and packing execution. This Manual is a useful resource for QA personnel, garment vendors and GIS offices that do business with Gap Inc. Please familiarize yourself with the Manual in its entirety, paying close attention to Gap Inc.’s quality standards as well as the penalties resulting from failure to meet those standards. If you have any questions regarding the standards and procedures included within this manual, please contact: Gap Inc. Attn: Diane Maclane 2 Harrison Street San Francisco, CA 94105 phone: (415) 427-6470 This Manual is the property of Gap Inc. This proprietary information is provided in confidence and is solely for use in connection with dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. While in your company’s possession, the Manual is to be maintained in strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose of your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The Manual shall be returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon cessation of your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or upon Gap Inc.’s request.

Introduction Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

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Contacts GIS Offices GIS Americas:

Regional Director of Quality Assurance 5200 Blue Lagoon Drive Miami, Florida USA

GIS Hong Kong:

China Hong Kong City 21st and 22nd Floor, Tower 3 33 Canton Road Tsimshatsui Kowloon Hong Kong Tel: 852.2.730.9883 Fax: 852.2.736.8903

GIS Egypt:

World Trade Center 1191 Corniche El Nil Cairo Egypt

GIS Singapore:

No. 391B Orchard Road #22-6/7/8/9 Ngee Ann City, Singapore Tower B 238874 Tel: 65.734.0388 Fax: 65.733.5113

GIS Philippines:

3rd Floor Tesoro Bldg. Amaiz Ave. Makati City Philippines

GIS Sri Lanka:

Level 6 Valiant Towers #46/7 Nawam Mawatha Colombo 02 Sri Lanka

GIS Dubai:

LOB 20, G-60 Jebel Ali Free Zone Dubai U.A.E. Tel: 97.14.814.483 Fax: 97.14.814.788

GIS India:

India Liason Office A-8 Kailash Colony New Delhi 110 048, India Tel: 91.11.628.0951 Fax: 91.11.628.0978

Contacts Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2000

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Contacts (con’t) GIS Istanbul:

Akmerkez B-3 Blok Kat 11 Etiler 80600, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90.212.282.0420 Fax: 90.212.282.0417

GIS North Africa:

Route De Sousse Telboulba, ZI 5080 Tunisia

GIS Thailand:

Unit 2308 Empire Tower 195 South Sathorn Road Yannawa, Sathhorn BKK 10120, Thailand Tel: 662.6700.168.73 Fax: 662.6700.176

GIS South Africa:

Suite 2305-2307, 23rd floor The Embassy Building 199 Smith Street Durban 4001, South Africa Tel: 27.31.335.2500 Fax: 27.31.368.2628

Contacts Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2000

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I. Factory Visit Procedures Preparation Before visiting a factory, a QA representative must carry out the following: •

Verify vendor is on Global Compliance’s approved vendor list.

•

Obtain factory contact name, phone number and address.

•

Obtain copies of Purchase Orders.

•

Secure fabric/yarn color swatches and/or hand and finish standards.

•

Obtain the approved sample.

•

Obtain manufacturing specifications, including Garment Specification Sheet (GSS).

•

Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and faxes as well as product/fabric/component testing reports.

•

Obtain approved production schedules.

During initial visit, a QA representative must carry out the following: •

Verify factory owns required machinery for attaching buttons (lock-stitch machines), snaps (machines and snap supplier is on approved vendor list).

•

Verify factory has testing and in-house monitoring systems in place for safety and performance issues.

•

Verify factory has needle control procedures in place and maintains a current broken needle log.

Factory Visit Procedures Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

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II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.) What is A.Q.L.? Acceptable Quality Level is the quality level, which, for purposes of sampling inspection, is the limit of a satisfactory manufacturing process.

Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. standards when appraising a vendor’s manufacturing process during shipment audits are as follows: • • • • •

0.1 for appraising Critical Visual Defects 0.25 for OCR/Ticket Defects 4.0 or 2.5 for appraising Major Visual Defects (varies by division) 6.5 for appraising Minor Visual Defects 6.5 for appraising Major Measurement Defects

(Note: The selection or use of an A.Q.L. does not imply that the contractor has the right to supply any defective unit of product).

Critical Defects A Critical Defect is defined as anything potentially harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to, sharp points/edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful. Improper or inaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings and CPSC snug fitting sleepwear measurements that are greater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects.

Result of Finding A Critical Defect Visual If a Critical Visual Defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All Critical Visual Defects must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Measurement Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS). It will state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement page of the GSS, measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS. Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points (those not in capital letters) are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual. The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1. If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.) Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

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III. In-Process Inspection Purpose The purpose of an In-Process inspection is to check the following: raw materials, marker layout, spreading, cutting, sewing, wet processing, screen printing, pressing and other embellishments. Sampling plan should not be used at this stage since a lot size is a bundle. For woven and knit production, the first In-Process inspection begins when knitting/weaving commences. While inspecting semi-finished goods and batches during work-in-process, records need be kept on defects found for discussion and communication with the manufacturer/GIS production representatives. The number of defects found during a cutting, measurement or visual inspection should be noted on the various In-Process reports. It is not the purpose of the In-Process inspection to try and measure percent defective, but to identify potential problems. These In-Process reports will be the basis for data collection and evaluation.

In-Process Inspection Forms At relevant stages of the In-Process Inspection use the following forms: • • •

In-Process Inspection Report In-Process Audit Worksheet In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional)

An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note these forms must be used as is during the In-Process Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Cutting Inspection Procedures The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process cutting inspection: •

Verify and record fabric test reports.

•

After cutting, perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut pieces), inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report (use the Fabric/Cutting Checklist and defective portion).

•

Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.

•

If the factory can not correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for corrective action.

•

If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standard, color, etc. arise, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for corrective action.

In-Process Inspection Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

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Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process inspection: •

All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production approved standards, and must reflect correct country of origin and fiber/component content. Review and record all required Gap, Inc. fabric/component/product test reports.

•

Verify needle control and safety procedures are being followed.

•

Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production schedules can be met.

•

Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at least six pieces of each operator’s semi-finished goods to check for workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriate In-process inspection report.

•

Check hand/color against approved standards. If standards are not available, send the merchandiser/production representative examples of fabric colors and range of shades.

•

Measure placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet.

•

Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.

•

Check that all small parts are securely attached.

•

Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process Visual Inspection Worksheet

•

Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.

•

If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for corrective action.

•

If questions regarding construction, measurements, fabric standard, color, etc. arise, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for answers.

•

All measurement points listed in the measurement box of the specification sheet are to be measured on at least one product of each size and color during the In-Process inspection (i.e. on unwashed or rigid garment). This is to be done using pattern yield measurements, which are to be provided by the Vendor. Any discrepancies are to be noted on the In-Process Visual Inspection Report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and merchandiser/production representative.


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In-Process Inspection Procedures (con’t) •

Record the locations of all operations such as knitting, linking and finishing. Also, record the appraisal of the factory’s capacities. The first In-Process inspection must begin at the knitting stage with photographs taken of every style during work in progress. Knitting panel inspection must be conducted at the intervals listed below depending on the size of a program: a) b) c)

•

Up to 5,000 pieces. At least one in-Process audit must be conducted when the knitting of 20% of the panels completed. 5,001 to 10,000 pieces. At least two In-Process audits must be conducted when the knitting of 20% and 50% completed. Above 10,000 pieces. At least three In-Process audits must be conducted when the knitting of 20%, 50%, and 80% completed.

When products are transferred from one location to another, a visual and measurement inspection report must be performed using the same criteria as the shipment Inspection procedures. Any discrepancies are to be noted on the Visual and Measurements Inspection report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and merchandiser/production representative.


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IV. Shipment Inspection Purpose The purpose of a shipment inspection is to determine the quality of an order by its visual appearance, measurement to specifications and packing execution. The shipment inspection is performed before the finished product is shipped. This is done in order to minimize the arrival of defective product to Gap Inc. distribution centers, stores or other designated locations.

Shipment Inspection Forms At relevant stages of the Shipment Inspection use the following forms. • • • • •

Visual Inspection Report Box Audit Worksheet (optional) Finished Product Measurement Sheet Finished Product Measurement Sheet - Tops (optional) Finished Product Measurement Sheet – Bottoms (optional)

An example of each form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note, these forms must be used as is during the Shipment Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Shipment Inspection Methods When auditing garments for measurements and visuals, there are two methods that may be used in relation to the timing of the audit. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap designated personnel performing the audit. However, the most proactive and preferred method is the non-destructive procedure. Option 1: During the packing process, this type of audit combines Measurements, Visual, Packaging, and Packing. Option 2: A non-destructive audit may be performed for measurements, visuals, and packaging before the garments are boxed. Packing audits must be performed during the boxing/packing process to verify labels, assortments, and counts.

Shipment Inspection Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

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Measurement Audit Measurement Audit Procedures The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit: •

Measurements should be taken on products after wash, after press and sometimes before packing. Major measurement defects are to be judged using an A.Q.L. of 6.5. Only critical measurement points highlighted on the specification sheet (*) are taken at the time of the shipment audit. A product with more than one major measurement defect is counted as a major defect.

•

Select samples at random.

•

Measure products at critical measurement points which are noted with a (*) on the approved specification sheet.

•

Record all measurements taken on the Finished Product Measurement Form.

•

Determine the results based on the A.Q.L. 6.5 pass/fail levels for major defects, and the percent defective for minor defects (Reference Measurement Audit Sampling Plan).

•

Put a CIRCLE around minor defects (i.e. measurements which are out of tolerance but do not exceed grade). Waist measurements on woven bottoms, which are out of tolerance, are to be counted as major defects. Please check the waist and inseam requirements on the specification sheet for what constitutes a major defect on every style, as this can vary between styles and fabrics.

•

Put a TRIANGLE around major defects (i.e. measurements that are out of tolerance and exceed the grade). If a measurement point has no grade or if the grade is less than the stated tolerance or measurements that exceed the tolerance than it will be considered major defects.

•

If the total number of circled measurements is less than or equal to the number of minor defects allowed, and if the total number of triangle measurements is less than or equal to the number of major defects allowed, the measurement audit passes. Both minor and major measurements must be in the allowed range to pass the measurement audit.

•

If the total number of circled measurements is more than the number of minor defects allowed, the audit fails.

•

If the total number of triangle measurements is more than the number of majors allowed, the audit fails.

“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit for “Snug Fitting Sleepwear”: •

Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS). It will state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement page of the GSS, measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.

•

Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual. (Measurement Audit Sampling Plan, page 16)


13

“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures (con’t) •

Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points - those not in capital letters are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.

•

The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1.

•

If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Measurement Audit Sampling Plan Determine the number of garments to sample, according to the following sampling plan chart:

Measurements ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 6.5 A.Q.L. Lot Size –Mixed Color

Sample Size

1 Color 2 Colors 3 Colors 4 Colors 5 Colors More than (5) Colors

20 32 50 80 80 125

Major 6.5 Pass 3 5 7 10 10 14

Fail 4 6 8 11 11 15

Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects •

For woven and knit items, 10% of measurement points pass if found to be out of tolerance, but not exceeding the grade (e.g. If there are 9 measurement points on a pant and 32 garments to be measured, there would be a total of 288 measurement points. That shipment will then pass, if there are not more than 29 minor defect measurement points (10%) out of the 288 taken out of tolerance).

•

For sweater items, 15% of the measurement points will pass if out of tolerance, but not exceeding grade. Apply the same formula found above.

•

If the audit fails, the merchandiser/production representative should be notified for corrective action.


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Visual Audit Visual Audit Methods There are two methods for auditing visuals. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap Inc. designated personnel performing the audit: Option 1: Non-Destructive Visual Audit (audit performed before garments boxed). Option 2: Visual Auditing begins after boxing/packing process has started.

Visual Audit Forms and Reference Sheets At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, use the following forms: • Visual Inspection Report • Visual Inspection Worksheet (tool to be used for non-destructive audits that occur over an extended period of time) At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, reference the Classification of Visual Defects Sheets (Chapter X, Appendix II). An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. An example of each reference sheet can found in Chapter XI, Appendix II, of this manual. Please note these forms and sheets must be used as is during the Visual Audit. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Visual Audit Sampling Plans The sampling plans used for both audits are as follows:

Gap, GapKids, babyGap, Old Navy Adults/Kids/Baby and Outlet First Quality Production ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) Shipment Size Lot

0-500 501-1,200 1,201-3,200 3,201-10,000 10,001-35,000 35,001-UP

Garment Visuals Sample Size 20 32 50 80 125 200

Critical 0.1 Pass/Fail 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1


Major 4.0 Pass/Fail 2/3 3/4 5/6 7/8 10/11 14/15

Minor 6.5 Pass/Fail

3/4 5/6 7/8 10/11 14/15 21/22

Ticket Check (OCR) Major .25 Pass/Fail 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 1/2 1/2

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Visual Audit Sampling Plans (con’t) Banana Republic and Japan Orders ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) Shipment Size Lot

0-500 501-1,200 1,201-3,200 3,201-10,000 10,001-35,000 35,001-UP

Garment Visuals Sample Size 20 32 50 80 125 200

Critical 0.1 Pass/Fail 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1

Major 2.5 Pass/Fail 1/2 2/3 3/4 5/6 7/8 10/11

Minor 6.5 Pass/Fail

3/4 5/6 7/8 10/11 14/15 21/22

Ticket Check (OCR) Major .25 Pass/Fail 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 1/2 1/2

Visual Audit Procedures The following are QA procedures when performing a visual audit: •

Since this type audit may take place over an extended period of time (e.g. more than one day), the non-destructive visual process is selected and the Visual Inspection Worksheet may be used.

•

When the visual audit is performed over more than one day, the results recorded on the Visual Inspection Worksheet must be reviewed and signed by factory management. The information on this worksheet must be transferred and attached to the Visual Inspection Report.

•

When this visual audit procedure is employed, the Gap representative must insure immediate corrective action is taken to correct any defects found. This will insure other garments in this audit will not contain the following defects: a) Critical visual defects are based on an A.Q.L. of 0.1 for all divisions. Critical visual defects are defined as defects that may cause bodily injury to the wearer. One critical defect found during the shipment audit would cause the audit to fail. All the goods in a fail audit must be re-inspected 100% by factory to remove all critical defective items prior to been audited again by Gap field auditor or its appointed agent. b) OCR/Ticket/Label Check is based on a 0.25 AQL. c) Major visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 4.0 for Gap Divisions and Old Navy, 2.5 for Banana Republic and product being sold in Japan. d) Minor visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 6.5 for all divisions. e) Pass/fail numbers for minor/major defects are to be counted separately.


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Visual Audit Procedures (con’t) f)

Any trim that contains an OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the Visual auditing process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Visual Inspection Report. When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform an additional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction. This audit will consist of a sample size of 315 pieces. This audit will pass on two (2) incorrect OCR trims and fail on three (3). The AQL for the OCR trims/label/ticket audit is 0.25. If this additional audit passes, the entire audit may be passed. However, if this second (additional) audit fails, the factory must re-inspect 100% of the shipment for incorrect OCR trims. OCR trims are normally price tickets on knits and woven shirts and matchbooks on woven etc. bottoms. The OCR is the line that is scanned in the stores that indicates the price and style. This information is vital to insure that the replenishment of inventory in our Distribution Centers and stores is accurate.

g) While performing the visual audit any defects as follows will be counted as a major defect in the visual audit: 1) Incorrect size strip (31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants) 2) Incorrect flasher 3) Incorrect (wrong size) of logo label 4) Incorrect non-OCR (BARCODED) price ticket (These items must correspond to the Bill of Materials (BOM) on the GSS as to item number and size) 5) Above items are coordinated by size and style h) The lot size is the total number of units to the shipment. The selection of a random sample must be conducted according to ratio based on quantity, number of sizes, and various colors in a program. i)

Sample size will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.

j)

More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect.

k) If consistent minor defects occur which affect the overall appearance of the product, the shipment audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the merchandise/production representative. l)

Samples are to be taken randomly and must include all sizes.

m) Defective labeling (defined by incorrect country of origin or fiber content) on any portion of the shipment will result in failure and rejection of the shipment. Refer to Vendor Handbook for country of origin information. •

If the number of visual defects is equal to or less than the number allowed per the sampling plan, the audit passes. The defective products found are to be sent back for repair or seconded.

•

If the number of visual defects is more than the number allowed, the audit fails. The merchandiser/production representative is to be notified to determine disposition of the shipment.

•

Complete the Visual Inspection Report. Record the fabric/production test reports numbers in the appropriate area. If not available, fax to production representative and Director of Product Integrity.


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Visual Audit Procedures (con’t) •

If the audit fails, record when the re-audit is to take place in the comment column. If re-audit takes place at that time, use the same procedures as new audit, including packing.

•

If shade variations occur within a shipment, the merchandiser/production representative is to be notified and samples sent to merchandiser/production representative for approval.

•

If the merchandiser/production representative requests that the shades be separated the carton shade marks should be checked during shipment.

•

During the shipment audit, packaging and labeling should be checked closely to insure conformance to standards including proper Country of Origin and fiber content markings.

•

When multiple Purchase Orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit performed on a sample taken from this combination. If the audit fails, all Purchase Orders fail; if it passes all Purchase Orders pass.

•

It is mandatory to check the weight of each size for the following garments at shipment audit. Sweaters and fine knit for babyGap (for quota purposes).

Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits Gap / Old Navy Procedures Sweaters Three pieces of the median size (the average of the smallest to the largest in the range) are weighed. The results are added together, and then divided by three (3). This will determine the average weight per sweater. babyGap Fine Knits Three pieces of every size are weighed and the individual readings are recorded. The results are forwarded to babyGap merchants to determine quota issues. It is not necessary for QA to comment on whether the weight meets the required tolerance.


18

Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits (con’t) Banana Republic Procedures Sweaters Sweaters of every size in a program must be weighed individually and calculated for average weight based on the required size ratio in a placement memorandum according to the below listed procedures: a) Assuming that the required size ratio is 1:2:2:1 (XS/S/M/L). b) Randomly select four sweaters of every size; weigh them individually and record the results for the interim audit report. c) Calculate the average weight of each sweater size by adding the four (4) readings together and dividing by four (4). d) Based on the size ratio 1:2:2:1, the average overall weight of a sweater is calculated in the following manner: (avg. wt. of sizes “xs” x sz ratio 1) + (avg. wt. of size “s” x sz ratio 2) + (avg. wt. of size “m” x sz ratio) + (avg. wt. of size “l” x ratio 1) /four (4) = overall weight of sweater.

Gap Asia Pacific Procedures Shipment audit will not be carried out on new store orders or shipment quantities of up to 1,000 units or less by color. Instead it is the responsibility of the Vendor to perform the necessary audit, and insure that the shipped merchandise meets Gap’s quality standards. QA will issue an “OK to Ship” report using a shipment report form printed with a “Shippers’ Declaration”.

Seconds & Overruns Vendors must be reminded that all seconds or overruns sold to anyone other than Gap Inc., must have all Gap Inc. logos, labels, or other identification removed in accordance to the guidelines outlined in the Vendor Handbook. After all are removed, then an audit must be scheduled to verify that the removal has been executed correctly.


19

Pack Audit Terms to know during the pack audit: “FA” means Factory Audit and “AA” means Audit Assessment. These terms must be used to differentiate similar terms used in the Distribution Centers.

Pack Audits Procedures The factory is responsible for the pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a pack audit: •

The pack audit must be performed as a separate audit.

•

The pack audit is the responsibility of the facility/vendor.

•

Before beginning this assessment, QA personnel must ask the factory/vendor representative for the results of their audit. When performing this assessment, the Gap Inc. auditor must place a “AA” on each box in the assessment. This will be placed in the same area as the “FA”. Otherwise, place this in the upper right hand of the box information label in a 1”x1” space. This “AA” is not to be covered by tape or labels because it will be used by Distribution Center QA during their pack assessment.

•

Gap Inc. QA or those designated by Gap Inc. to perform shipment audits, will be responsible for a 10% assessment of this factory/vendor audit. Major Defects for Pack Audits a) Incorrect quantity b) Carton labeling errors c) Incorrect Pre-Pack • Assortments • Amounts • Pre-Pack Stickers d) Carton not as specified (size and construction) e) Crushed or damaged cartons f) Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons

•

When performing the pack audit, the vendor must place an “FA” on each box audited. This “FA” must be placed in a one inch by one inch space (1x1) at the top right hand corner of the box information label (the label containing Purchase Order, style, quantity, etc.). This “FA” must not be covered with tape or other labels. because it will be used as a guide by Gap Inc. field personnel and Gap Inc. Distribution Centers to verify audits and assess these cartons.


20

Pack Audit Procedures (con’t) •

Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan. If the Factory Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take appropriate action to correct the problems found. Discuss the results with factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan to correct the issues found in the audit. A re-audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packing errors were corrected. A re-audit will be performed and recorded on a separate Visual Inspection Report. Attach this re-audit to the original Visual Inspection Report.

•

Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the Visual Inspection Report. Record the results of the Audit Assessment (AA) and the results of the Factory Audit (FA).

•

If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser/production representative for corrective action.

•

The assessment will be performed on 10% of the number of boxes that are audited by the factory/vendor. Example: if there are 1005 boxes in the shipment, the factory/vendor will audit 80 boxes. Gap Inc. personnel would then perform an 8 box assessment (10% of 80 boxes). Again there is a zero tolerance in this assessment. Any defects will require more action to be taken (i.e. complete audit, re-inspect by factory, etc.) The assessment may or may not be taken for the same exact boxes on the Factory (FA) Audit. The best practice would be to pull the sample from both populations (boxes not in FA and boxes in FA).

Pack Audits Sampling Plan The pack audit sampling plan for the factory/vendor is as follows:

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (2) .65 AQL

# of cartons 5-15 15-50 51-150 151-500 501-1,200 1,201-UP

Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan Sample Size Pass Fail 3 0 1 8 0 1 20 0 1 50 1 2 80 1 2 125 2 3


21

Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs Each vendor who participates in Gap, Inc.’s full carton pack program should establish a packing audit system.

Prototype Pack For each Full Carton/CD Flow Pack purchase order, the Vendor is required to have in their packing department a prototype packed carton for training. This prototype is to be approved by Gap QA.

Sample Size The Vendor should determine what quantity of cartons can be packed, and held, before closing the cartons. This carton quantity becomes the population from which the sample is drawn. The way a sampling plan works is the larger the population the smaller the sample size is as a percent of the population. To optimize the inspection time, the maximum quantity of cartons packed and labeled but not closed is desired. Once that number is determined, the Vendor should choose the sampling size from the pack audit’s sampling plan (0.65 AQL).

Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Auditing Procedures The factory is responsible for the full carton pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a full carton pack audit: •

It is important for the Vendor to keep the population size at a level that takes into consideration the staging area available as well as the factory’s accuracy history. If an audit does not take place until the population is large, a great deal of extra handling will take place if it fails. We recommend that in the beginning, a Vendor that is new to full carton pre-packs choose a small population to audit until history can be developed and expertise learned.

•

A same criterion for major packing errors is to be used as a normal shipment audit; use the same criterion as listed under Pack Audits. (FA and AA procedures).

•

Gap Inc. will perform an assessment after the audit is completed by the factory/vendor.

•

Should Vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of the Vendor to pay for any special handling required later, in order to correct those errors at Gap Inc.’s Distribution Centers.


22

Japanese Purchase Orders Auditing Procedures All Japanese purchase order shipments are required to be audited against an A.Q.L. level of 2.5 majors and 6.5 minors for final shipment audits. All goods shipped against Japanese purchase orders are required to go through a second 100% inspection by the factory after trimming and before packing. This is for the company’s benefit only (not to be considered acceptance of any goods) and is performed to ensure that the following points are confirmed before shipping: •

Loose threads are properly trimmed and loose buttons attached properly.

•

Needle control/metal detector procedures followed.

•

No sharp metal points.

•

Paper care/content label in Japanese is in the garment and properly placed.

•

Leg sticker/matchbook and any trim items are correctly coordinated to size label.

•

Price ticket in Yen attached to garment with correct retail price.

•

No dirt spots or stains.

•

Pressing is to company standards and as specified for product.


23

Outlet Division Standards Outlet Audit Forms At the relevant stage of an Outlet Audit, use the following form: • Visual Inspection Report • Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Outlet Division Auditing Types All rejected products must first be offered to the Outlet Division. There are three types of audits for Outlet: Type 1: First quality product sold to or produced for Outlet with Outlet labels. Apply same methods for audit as any Gap Inc. division. This audit will be recorded on the Visual Inspection Report. Type 2: First quality product sold or produced for Outlet with Banana Republic labels and crossed through with a gold pen. Use the most current Banana Republic A.Q.L. for inspection. For Gap, GapKids, and babyGap main labels crossed through with gold pen, use the most current A.Q.L. used by each department for the inspection. This audit will be recorded on the Visual Inspection Report. Type 3: Product rejected by merchandising or production and purchased by Outlet. This may be a complete program or rejected units within a program. This audit is performed to assure product purchased meets Outlet standards. (i.e. does not contain packing errors or any product considered as a third). This audit will be recorded on the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.

Outlet Division Auditing Procedures •

Packing audits are to be conducted using Level (2) .65 AQL (see Pack Audit, page:).

•

Merchandise not gold lined through the labels, as described in the Vendor Handbook, are considered majors.

•

Thirds are defined as merchandise that is not wearable or would cause embarrassment to the wearer.

•

Complete and submit to Outlet, the Visual Inspection Report and/or the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.

Seconds & Overruns For Outlet internal purposes, we define seconds garments as those that are wearable with unnoticeable flaws. These defects should not be conspicuous to the average customer. The Outlet Classification Guide provided below references two types of merchandise: “seconds” and “thirds.” Outlet is generally interested in first quality or seconds. This defect Guide applies only to Outlet, and does not alter or change in any way the Company’s quality standards or any Company requirements in the Vendor Handbook. This in only a reference tool. All seconds, overruns, unused goods or rejected goods of any kind must still be offered to Outlet regardless of the QA Classification guide below. If you have questions, please contact Outlet. Note: Outlet will not except any product that has a critical defect; also, vendor must forward to Outlet 3 samples: 2 that reflect the majority of the flaws and 1 that represents the worst case scenario (please indicate accordingly). Shipment Inspection Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

24

Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet ANZI/ASQC Z!.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 1.5 AQL Size of Shipment

0-500 501-1,200 1,201-3,200 3,201-10,000 10,001-35,000

Sample Size

20 32 50 80 125

Thirds Pass 1 1 2 3 5

Fail 2 2 3 4 6

Outlet Defect Classification Guide DEFECTS

CLASS OF GARMENT SECONDS

THIRDS/ NOT ACCEPTABLE

1.

Garments not to color standard

X

2.

Shading - garment to garment

X

3.

Slight shading within garments

X

4.

Measurements out of tolerance(Excluding CPSC requirements on children’s sleepwear)

X

5.

Twisting or torquing up to 50% greater than 1st quality standard

X

6.

Light fastness greater than 1.5, less than 3.5

X

7.

Abrasion greater than standard

X on approval

8.

Underweight garments

X on approval

9.

Incorrect "hand" to standard

X

10.

Noticeable fabric flaws

X on approval

11.

Sewing flaws resulting in puckering, broken stitches, needle cuts, needle chews and needle holes

X

12.

Stained or soiled garments that are not cleanable

X

13.

Repairs of sewing and finishing defects

14.

Screen printing not as specified

X

15.

Mismatched parts or plaids not as specified

X

16.

Light fastness less than or equal to 1.5

17.

Holes

X

18.

Crocking below standard

X

19.

Product with Critical defects

X

20.

Non-repairable sewing defects

X

X

X

21.

Rags - incomplete garments

X

22.

Non-repairable hardware defects, e.g. snaps, zippers, etc.

X

23.

Screen printing - poor resolution or not aligned

X


25

X. Safety Procedures It is mandatory that all raw materials, trim components, and actual production garments be evaluated by a Gap, Inc. approved testing laboratory. For specific information regarding Gapkids and babyGap, refer to Gap Inc.’s Product Safety Standards and Procedures Manual for Infants and Children. The following are QA procedures when performing a Safety audit: •

Check factory Needle Control Procedure Log; sign and date log. Ask factory management and operators to explain needle control procedures. Make sure log is filled out properly and is up to date. Take a photocopy of the latest entry page; attach to your report.

•

Check needle detector if factory has one. Check date of machine’s last service and calibration. Test machine and it’s sensitivity adjustment. Perform test with 1.2mm sphere test card. Review occurrence log for needles that have been detected.

•

Check for lock-stitch button machines. If there are none, report to merchant as soon as possible. Advise operable factory that lock-stitch button machines are required. If they have lock-stitch, verify they have enough machines to handle production requirements, using the Pull Test.

•

Check snap equipment and parts to make sure they are on the approved list of suppliers. Make sure pneumatic and electric press equipment is made by an approved snap vendor. Make sure dies match snaps and that prongs on snaps are long enough to properly mate and secure the snap, using the Pull Test. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.

•

Hand/foot press or flywheel equipment is not allowed. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.

Safety Procedures Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

26

VI. Broken Needle Standards Broken Needle Forms At relevant stages of the Broken Needle Inspection, use the following form. •

Broken Needle Log

An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note that this form must be used during the Broken Needle Inspection. If need be, additional columns can be added to the forms for documenting information, but existing columns/formatting can not be removed from this form. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Broken Needle Procedures The following are Needle procedures for vendors when manufacturing garment: •

Operators should not possess any spare needles.

•

Replacement needles should be stored in a locked closet.

•

Worn needles should be disposed of in a sealed container.

•

When needles break, every effort must be made to locate all fragments.

•

If all fragments cannot be found, component or garment must be destroyed.

•

Breakage must be recorded in the broken needle log.

•

Broken or used needles should not be around machines or on factory floor.

•

Pins, staples, wire or metal clips should not be used in the bundling, sewing or laundry process.

Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures This is a clearly defined method to verify that factories are following needle control procedures. All QA representatives who conduct in-factory audits on Gap Inc.’s behalf such as Gap Inc.’s sourcing channels/agents/QA staff are responsible for this task. The inspection steps outlined in these procedures will allow you to quickly determine if factories are correctly following our needle control procedures: •

Before you start to do In-Process audits, you should walk through the production lines to verify needle control procedures.

•

Ask a few operators, at random, to explain what they do if a needle breaks. Proceed to do audit, if they detail the correct procedure. If they are not following the correct procedure, discuss your findings with the factory manager.

Broken Needle Standards Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

27

Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures (con’t) •

Search the floor for used or broken needle parts. Pick up and save any you find to discuss with factory management.

•

Check around a few operators’ machines for spare or broken needles. Lift the machine head to see if used or broken needles are present in the oil pan. Collect and save needles to discuss with factory management.

•

Check the broken needle log for accuracy. Sign and date the log if it is in order. Make sure all broken parts have been found and are taped to the log for each entry. If only part of the broken needle is attached to log, further investigation is required.

•

Vendors who have needle detection equipment must verify the calibration and accuracy o the machine once per hour. This can be done with a 1.2mm check card. A log should be kept to record any broken needles or other metal products found.

•

OSHA requires that contaminated needles, those that may or may not be broken but have punctured human skin, must be disposed of in a blood borne pathogen container.

Broken Needle Standards Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

28

VII. Country of Origin Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook

Country of Origin Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

29

VIII. Carton/Prepack For carton sizes, specifications, labelling and pre-pack definitions refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook

Carton/Prepack Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

30

IX.

Appendix I (General Forms) Summary of Quality Assurance general forms used during various inspection points, as explained in this manual: In-Process Inspection Report Visual Inspection Worksheet In-Process Audit Worksheet In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report Visual Inspection Report Finished Product Measurement Sheet Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops) Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) Outlet Inspection Report Broken Needle Log Box Audit Worksheet

Appendix I Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

AI-1

GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING

(________________OFFICE

IN-PROCESS INSPECTION REPORT

RANDOM/UNANNOUNCED IN LINE (SCHEDUALED)

STYLE NO.______________________ CONTRACT SHIPMENT DATE_______________INSPECTION DATE:_________ P.O. NO. ______________________ ANTICIPATED SHIPMENT DATE_____________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____ ______________________ ORDER QUANTITY_____________________ VENDOR:__________________ DEPT.:_________________________ COLOR:______________________________ FACTORY:_________________ FABRIC TEST # __________________ FACTORY CODE____________ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:________________________________________ AUDITOR:__________________ PLANNED PRODUCTION ARRANGEMENT (COMPLETE AT "IN-LINE ONE" ONLY EXCEPT FOR CHANGES TO PLAN SAME AS IN-LINE FACTORY COUNTRY LOCATIO ONE YES NO FABRIC/KNIT PANEL YES NO CUTTING YES NO MINOR SEWING YES NO MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN YES NO FINISHING MANFACTORING PROCESS CONFERRING COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ACTUAL PRODUCTION STATUS:

FABRIC(EG. BLANKETS

KTS. PANEL

ASSEMBLY

STATUS CUTTING/KNITTING MINOR SEWING MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN FINISHING PACKING FABRIC CUTTING

SEWING

SHADING

THREAD

STRIPE MATCH

SEAM

CUTTING REPORTS

PATTERN

LINKING/LOOPING/ MENDING

FINISHING WASHING CLR FASTNES

STITCH SHAPES/SYMMETR

IRONING/SHAPE

OTHERS

SEAM/ LK/ LP KNITTING MEND

PULL TESTING

BTN/ HOLES

NECK STRETRCH GA

NEEDLE DETECT

FOLDING

BARTAKING

PLY MATCHING

POCKETING

TICKETING

OTHER

OTHER

HEMMING

POLYBAG

BARTACKING

CARTON

LINING

MARKINGS

SNAP MACHINE

HANGTAGS

SPECS

LOCKSTITCH BUT

CLEANING

BUTTON HOLES

A = ACCEPTABLE

NEEDLE CONTRO

PRESSING

MARKER

LABEL POSITION

SAFETY CHECK

SNAP TEST

PACKING

U = UNACCEPTABLE

I CONFIRM ACCURACY OF ALL INFORMATION ABOVE AND AGREE TO MAKE CORRECTIONS AS PER ABOVE COMMENTS IMMEDIATELY

N/A = NOT APPLICABLE

CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY VENDOR / FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE __________________________ _____________________________ SIGNATURE __________________________ AUDITOR INITIALS / DATE

DATE _____________________________ Q.A. MANAGER INITIALS / DATE


AI-2

Factory Representative

Color

Style Number

Subtotal

Minor

Critical Major

Check

Critical

Major

Date

OCR

Date

Visauls

Qty. Inspected

Ship Quantity

Qty. Inspected

Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

Comments:

Type of Defect

Purchase Orders

7+(*$3,1&

Minor

Check

OCR Critical

Date

Major

Qty. Inspected

Sample Size

Minor

Check

OCR

Visual Inspection Worksheet

Critical

Date

Major

Qty. Inspected

Minor

Check

OCR

*OCR Ticket Check Based on .25 AQL

Critical

Date

Major

Qty. Inspected

Pass/Fail

Minor

Check

OCR

Minors

Majors

Total Defects

Total Inspected

Minors

OCR

Majors

Critical

AI-3

Gauge

S.P.I.

Measure

Thread/ Tension Margin

No. operator Units


Appendix I

Q.A. SIGNATURE (DATE)_____________________ LINE SUPERVISOR________________________

GENERAL COMMENTS

OPERATION

Comments

PLANT MANAGER______________

No. Defects

VENDOR _______________ MFG. PLANT_______________ DIVISION_________________DATE ___________________ LINE No. _______________ STYLE ___________________ PATTERN ________________AUDITOR _________________

AI-4

IN PROCESS AUDIT WORKSHEET

VENDOR: _________________ SUBCONTRACTOR: _________________ WEEK OF: _________________

Style Number


Appendix I

Vertical Placement: _________ Horizontal Placement: _________

Placement Placement Press Print/Other Total Units Total Units Problems Found/ ID Registration Color Vertical Tol. Actual Horizontal Tol. Actual Inspected Defective Name Corrective Action

Percent defective (divide total units defective by total units inspected):

Date and Time

INSTRUCTIONS: Use separate sheet for each vendor or subcontractor

FAX WEEKLY TO: _________________ FAX NUMBER: _________________ FROM: _________________ P.O. NUMBER(if available) _________________

IN PROCESS GRAPHICS VISUAL AUDIT REPORT

AI-5

GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING (

OFFICE) VISUAL INSPECTION REPORT

SHIPMENT REAUDIT

VENDOR__________________ ORDER QTY.__________________INSPECTION DATE_________ DIVISION_________________ VENDOR STYLE#______________ AUDITOR_________________ CONT. SHIP DATE__________ FIRST COSTS$________________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____ COLOR___________________ FACTORY_________________ DESCRIPTION_____________________________________________ FACTORY CODE___________ DC

P.O. #

GAP STYLE#

SHIP QTY

DC

P.O. #

______________________ AUDITOR (DATE) ______________________ MERCHANDISER (DATE)

GAP STYLE#

SHIP QTY

________________________ Q.A. MANAGER (DATE) _______________________ MERCHANDISING MG (DATE)

Merchandising Team Comments: ________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ AUDIT PASSED AUDIT FAILED INSP. QTY. _________________________________________ DEFECTIVE QTY: ACCEPT QTY:

CRITICAL

CRITICAL

OCR TICKET/LABEL CHECK

MAJOR

MINOR

MAJOR

MINOR

PASS

FAIL

SUMMARY: ______________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ COMMENTS: _____________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY: (FACTORY REP)


AI-6

GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING

NO.

CRITICAL

VISUAL DEFECT

MAJOR

MINOR

TOTAL

PACK ACCURACY CHECK CTN. INSP. Defective QTY

CTN. Ship

Packing Defects ___________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________

TEST REPORT# PULL TEST# GARMENT TEST# FABRIC TEST#

WT. PER DOZ.

SPEC.

ACTUAL

_________ _________ _________

THE ABOVE AUDIT IS A RANDOM REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLING OF THE WHOLE LOT ONLY. ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC. MERCHANDISING


AI-7

TOL

MAJOR

MINOR

AUDIT =

PASS<

AUDIT =

PASS<

X

=

>

>

AUDIT =

FAIL

AUDIT =

FAIL

SPEC

X

.10

%=

COLOR:

GAP STYLE #

PERCENT MAJORS

ACTUAL MAJORS

PERCENT MINORS

ACTUAL MINORS

SPEC


Appendix I

SPEC

%

%

TOTAL

GRAND

AUDIT

TOT 2ND

PG. TOTAL

PREV

TOTAL

PAGE

( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )

SIGNED BY:

CONFIRMED AND

PM / PO#

VENDOR STYLE #

Q.A. SIGNATURE

VENDOR

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC’S SPECIFIED DESTINATIONS

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED

MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC:

SPEC

2ND SAMPLE SIZE

PATTERN #

PARTICULARS

1ST. SAMPLE SIZE

SHIPMENT

DATE:

SAMPLE SIZE

INTERIM

FINISHED PRODUCT MEASUREMENT SHEET

AI-8

MINOR MAJOR

TOL SPEC

MAJOR

MINOR

AUDIT =

PASS <

AUDIT =

PASS <

X

=

>

>

AUDIT =

FAIL

AUDIT =

FAIL

SPEC

X

.10

%=

COLOR:

GAP STYLE #

PERCENT MAJORS

ACTUAL MAJORS

PERCENT MINORS

ACTUAL MINORS

SPEC

VENDOR STYLE #

PM / PO#

VENDOR


Appendix I

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC’S SRECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED


CB / BODY LENGTH

CF LENGTH

CUFF OPENING

SLEEVE WIDTH

BICEP

ARMHOLE

SLEEVE LENGTH

SHOULDER

BOTTOM

WAIST

CHEST

NECK DROP

NECK WIDTH

NECK OPENING

PARTICULARS

2ND SAMPLE SIZE

PATTERN #

SHIPMENT 1ST. SAMPLE SIZE

INTERIM

DATE:

SAMPLE SIZE

( TOPS )


SPEC

%

%

TOTAL

GRAND

AUDIT

TOT 2ND

PG. TOTAL

PREV

TOTAL


SIGNED BY:

CONFIRMED AND

Q.A. SIGNATURE

MINOR

AI-9

MAJOR

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED

MAJOR

MINOR


AUDIT =

PASS <

AUDIT =

PASS <

X

=

>

>

AUDIT =

FAIL

AUDIT =

FAIL

SPEC

X

.10

%=

COLOR:

GAP STYLE #

PERCENT MAJORS

ACTUAL MAJORS

PERCENT MINORS

ACTUAL MINORS

SPEC

VENDOR STYLE #

PM / PO#

VENDOR


Appendix I

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC’S SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS

INSEAM

BOTTOM

KNEE

THIGH

FLY OPENING

BACK RISE

FRONT RISE

SEAT ( BELOW WB )

WAIST ( BOTTOM )

WAIST ( TOP )

TOL SPEC

2ND SAMPLE SIZE

PATTERN #

PARTICULARS

1ST. SAMPLE SIZE

SHIPMENT

DATE:

SAMPLE SIZE

INTERIM

{ BOTTOMS }


SPEC

%

%

TOTAL

GRAND

AUDIT

TOT 2ND

PG. TOTAL

PREV

TOTAL

PAGE


SIGNED BY:

CONFIRMED AND

Q.A. SIGNATURE

MINOR

AI-10

MAJOR

GAP INC. Outlet Factory Outlet INSPECTION REPORT

SHIPMENT DATE

GFO STYLE#

VENDOR/MAKER:

ADDRESS:

PREPACK#

QTY ORDERED:

DEPT:

PO#

QTY TO BE SHIPPED:

AUDITOR:

GFO RETAIL PRICE ON TICKET:

UNITS PER CARTON:

COLOR:

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:

TOTAL CARTONS:

DESCRIPTION:

No.

Defectives

Thirds

ACCEPT

TOTALS REJECT

ACCEPT/REJECT RANGE

%

AUDIT PASSED 1st sample INSPECTED QTY. DEFECTIVE QTY. 2nd sample INSPECTED QTY. DEFECTIVE QTY. Cumulative Sample INSPECTED QTY. DEFECTIVE QTY.

AUDIT FAILED

THIRDS

% Packing Defectives

DEFECTIVE %

THIRDS

%

THIRDS

THIRDS

Verify the following informtion and check block to the right. 1. All garments lined through with gold marker. % 2. All garments are to be ticketed correctly. 3. Fit / Size strips placed on all denim and twill pants 4. Prepack definitions are correct. % 5. Correct number of units are packed per carton. 6. Verify all carton label information is correct.

Type of Defect

Qty. Found

SUMMARY:

COMMENTS:

Sample Size: Audit Passed: Audit Failed:

MERCHANDISING TEAM COMMENTS: CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY: FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE:

QA SIGNATURE (DATE)

MERCHANDISER (DATE)

MERCHANDISER (DATE) DIR. OF PRODUCTION The audit above is a random representative sampling of the whole lot only. ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.’S SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS (QA MANUAL 02/01


AI-11

OPERATOR NAME

MACHINE #


DATE /TIME OF BREAK

FACTORY: _________________________

PRODUCT STYLE

GAP INC. DIVISION

SUPERVISOR

COUNTRY: __________________________

BROKEN NEEDLE LOG

TAPED NEEDLE PARTS

GAP AUDITOR CHECK

AI-12

DATE CHECKED

CONTACT: _____________________

UNITS

3

5

6

7

8

PASS / FAIL QTY. TOTAL MAJORS FOUND

4

PARTICULARS:

2

9

UNITS

1

2

4

5

6

7

8

7. Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons

3

(FACTORY REPRESENTATION)

QA SIGNATURE CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY:

5. Carton not as specified 6. Crushed or damaged cartons

_______________ _______________

10 Pack Size Ratio

GAP STYLE# DESCRIPTION: COLOR:

3. Carton Labeling errors or not readable 4. Incorrect pre-pack

1


Appendix I

1. Incorrect quantity 2. Incorrect price tickets

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED

Pack Size Ratio

TOTAL CARTONS IN SHIPMENT: AUDIT QUANTITY: 100% INSPECT QUANTITY:

DATE: PM/PO# VENDOR: MAKER:

GAP BOX AUDIT WORKSHEET

9

AI-13

10

X.

Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects) The following details by product type major, minor and critical defects. Note: Critical defects are listed within product type classification. Critical defects are anything which can harm the user of the product. The following are some examples of critical defects but are not limited to this list: 1) 2) 3) 4)

Loose components, i.e. buttons, snaps, stones or other miscellaneous parts; Sharp edges, i.e. broken needles, staples, snaps, rivets, wire and pins; Drawstrings at head or neck for baby or kids products; and Threads or trim which are excessively long or loose which could present a choking hazard to a baby or child if they become entangled.

Any critical defect found during an audit fails that audit and requires the factory to re-inspect 100% of the product. Once all critical defects are removed, the order must be audited by a Gap Inc. auditor or their designated representative.

Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-1

Defects Woven and Knit Dresses/Jumpsuits Coats/Jackets A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak 2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear 3.Shaded Parts 4.Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn 5.Not Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn 6.Poor Matching of Color or Print Patterns 7.Texture Change 8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified 9. Shading Between Garments B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4" Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear 2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4" 3.Holes of any Size Repaired or Not, Needle Cut, Tear 4.Fabric Not as Specified 5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs Up to Size of Loop 6.Improper Repair 7.Any Pattern Errors

ZONE A Major Major Major

ZONE B Major Major Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major Major Major Major


ZONE A

ZONE B

Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major Major Major

Minor Minor Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major 2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major 3.One or More Skip Stitch on Any Stitch Type Major 4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major 5.Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major 6.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/8" Major 7.Any Exposed Stitch or Under Part Major 8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep 9.Stitch Count Variation Over +2 or -1 Per Inch Major 10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major 11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Seam or Fraying Major 12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" Major 13.Incorrect Placket Width + or -1/8" Major 14.Incorrect Placket Width Over 1/8" Major 15.High-Low Pockets (Two Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps + or - 1/8" Major

ZONE B Minor Major Major Major Minor Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 16.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way Plaid Match Over 1/16" Major 17.Uneven Collar Points Over 1/8" Major 18.Collar Overlap When Buttoned Major 19.Incorrrect Size Buttonhole Major 20.Buttonholes Nonreplaceable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches 21.Incorrect Button Major 22.Missing Button Major 23.Button Offline on Top Center 1/8" Tolerance Major 24.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in 4-Hole or Upside Down Major 25.Sewn in Pleats Major 26.Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleat Major 27.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes up to 1/8" Major 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes Over 1/8" Major 29.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major 30.Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major 31.Needle Chews up to 1 Per Inch Major 32.Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major 33.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or Ticket Placement Major 34.Uneven Hip Pocket Placement Over 1/8" Major 35.Lips or Crease on Front Pkt Major 36.Exposed White Pocket Bag up to 1/8" Major 37.Malfunctioning, Wavy or Incorrect Zipper Major 38.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8" Major 39.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major 40.Fell Seams Not Even at Join Crotch More Than Width of Stitch Major 41.Uneven Pleating in Seam, Shirring or Poorly Sewn Major 42.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed Darts Over 1/8" Major 43.High Low Band Over 1/8" Major 44.Uneven Band Over 1/8" Major 45.Uneven Belt Loop Placement Over 1/8" Major

ZONE B Major

Major Major Major Major Major Minor Major Major Major Major Major Major Major -

Major Major Major -

-


AII-2

Classification of Visual Defects Woven and Knit Dresses/Jumpsuits Coats/Jackets C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 46.Slanting Belt Loops More Than 1/8" Out of Vertical or Missing Major 47.Uneven Hem Over 1/8" Each Side 48.Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hem Major 49.Incorrect Bartack Placement or Missing Bartack Major 50.Misplaced Buttonhole or Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major 51.Misplaced Button Over 1/8" or Missing Button Major 52.Misplaced Rivet Over 1/8" or Missing Rivet Major 53.Crows Feet Major 54. Sharp Points/ Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Permanent Crease 2.Poorly Pressed 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks

ZONE B

Major Major Major Major Major Major Critical

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Major Minor

Major

Major

E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4" 2.Attached Sewing Threads Over 1/4" 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside of Garment 4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread 5.Stain,Soil Under1/8" 6.Stain,Soil Over 1/8" 7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots 8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible 9.Component Parts Not Securely Tacked 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments 11.Pile Direction Not as Specified 12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or Ticket Placement 13.Attached Sewing Threads at Collar Area Over 1/8" 14.Improper Tidy or Fraying of Band Finish 15.Incorrect Folding 16.Twisted Legs Over 1" ***babyGap / GapKids*** 17. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 18. Stones in Garments ***babyGap / GapKids*** 19. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Minor

Major

Major


Minor Major Minor Minor

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

-

Major Major Major

Major Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical


AII-3

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Woven & Knits Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers


AII-4

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Woven & Knits Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers


AII-5

Classification of Visual Defects KnitTops and Activewear A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot 2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear 3.Shaded Parts 4.Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn 5.Not Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn 6.Poor Matching of Color or Print Patterns 7.Texture Change 8.Shading Between Garments

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/8" 2.Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not 3.Standards Wt/Dz Exceeds Tolerance 4.Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle, Needle Line 5.Dye Discoloration Streaks Blotches, Print Out of Register 6.Bow or Bias Fabric Over 1" Side to Side C. Sewing (Defects by Zone) DEFECT 1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" 2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" 3.One or More Skip Stitch on Any Stitch Type 4.Incorrect Stitch Type 5.Any Exposed Stitch or Under Part 6.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep 7.Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge Over 1/8" 8.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" 9.Stitchcount Variation Over +2 or -1 Per Inch 10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension 11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Seam or Fraying 12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" 13.Incorrect Placket Width up to 1/8" 14.Incorrect Placket Width Over 1/8" 15.High/Low Pkts of Pkt Flaps 1/8" or More 16.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way Plaid Match Over 1/8" 17.Uneven Collar Points Over 1/8"



Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major Major Major

Major Major Major

ZONE A Major

ZONE B Minor

Major Majors

Major -

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Minor Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major -

Major Major

Major Major

Minor Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

-

C. Sewing (Defects by Zone) DEFECT 18.Collar Overlap 19.Uneven Hip Pkt Placement Over 1/8" 20.Lips or Creases on Pocket 21.Exposed White Pocket Bag 22.Not Mitred Inner Fly 23.Zippers, Incorrect Size/Color Malfunctioning, Improper Set 24.Uneven Yoke Seam Under 1/8" 25.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" 26.Misaligned Fell Seams Over Width of Topstitch 27.Uneven,Pleating, Shirring or Poorly Sewn Seams 28.Pleats in Seam 29.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes up to 1/8" 30.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes Over 1/8" 31.Uneven or Misplaced Darts Over 1/8" 32. High/Low Waistband > 1/8" 33. Uneven Waistband > 1/8" 34. Uneven Belt Loop Placement > 1/8" 35. Beltloop Missing or Slanting > 1/8" 36. Uneven Hem > 1/2" Each Side 37.Incorrect or Missing Bartack 38.Incorrect Size Buttonhole 39.Incorrect Button 40.Buttonholes Broken or Unrepairable Threads 41.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole or Hook And Eye Over 1/8" 42.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Holes or Upside Down 43.Missing Button 44.Missing or Misplaced Rivet Over 1/8" 45.Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems 46.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts 47.Interlining or Garment Part Twisted 48.Crow Feet 49.Needle Chews up to 1 Per Inch 50.Insecure Setting of Component Part 51.Incorrect Thread or Accessories 52.Misaligned Inserts,Gussets Over 1/4" 53. Sharp Points/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles

ZONE A

ZONE B


-

Major Minor Major

Major -

Major

Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major Major Major Major Major

-


Major Major Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major Major Major

Major Major Minor

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical


AII-6

Classification of Visual Defects Knit Tops and Activewear D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Poor Press 2.Permanent Crease 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Attached Threads up to 1/4" 2.Attached Threads Over 1/4" 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside of Garment 4.Sewn in Waste or Thread on Outside 5.Stail,Soil Oil to 1/8" 6.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rub Spots Over 1/4" 7.Improper Tidy or Fraying of Band Finish 8.Visible Drill Hole or Notches or Pencil Mark 9.Needle Chews or Feed-Dog Abrasion Frays 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments 11.Twisted Legs Over 1" 12.Nap Up/Down, Shaded Parts 13.Pile Direction Not as Specified 14.Insecure Setting of Part 15.Incorrect Trim Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket 16.Missing or Incorrect Labels 17.Incorrect Folding 18.Asymetric Garment More Than 1" 19.Uneven Elastification(Pant) ***babyGap / GapKids*** 20. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 21. Stones in Garments ***babyGap / GapKids*** 22. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Minor Major

Major

Major

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Minor Major

Major

Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major

Major

-

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major Major Major

Major Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical


AII-7

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Knit Tops & Activewear


AII-8

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Knit Bottoms


AII-9

Classification of Visual Defects Woven Shirts A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot 2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear 3.Shaded Parts 4.Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn 5.Poor Matching of Color or Print Patterns 6.Texture Change 7.Bleach Spot 8. Shading Between Garments

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Misweaves up to 1/4" 2.Misweaves Over 1/4" 3.Holes of any Size Repaired or Not 4.Fabric Not as Specified 5.Non-Characteristic Slubs



Major

Major

Major Major Major

Major Major Major

Major

Major

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Minor Major

Major Major Major

Major Major Minor

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 1.Run Off Stitches Up to 1/8" Major 2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major 3.One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major 4.. More Than 1 Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major 5. Incorrect Stitch Type Major 6.Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge Over 1/16" Major 7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16" Major 8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under Part Major 9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep 10.Stitchcount Variation Over +2 or -1 Per Inch Major 11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major 12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Seam or Fraying Major 13.Uneven Front Placket >1/8" at Bottom Major 14.Incorrect Placket Width 1/8" or Less Major 15.Incorrect Placket Width Over 1/8" Major 16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2 Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps More Than 1/4" in Relation to Each Other Major 17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major 18.Uneven Collar Points Over 1/8" Major 19.Collar Overlap When Buttoned Major

ZONE B Minor Major Major Major Major Minor Minor Major Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major 21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major 22.Incorrect Button Major 23.Missing Button Major 24.Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8" Tolerance Major 25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major 26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside Major 27.Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleat Major 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes Up to 1/8" Major 29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes Over 1/8" Major 30.Improper Interlining ,Excessive Fullness of Parts Major 31.Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major 32.Needle Chews up to 1 Per Inch Major 33.Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major 34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or Ticket Placement Major 35. Sharp Points/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Permanent Crease 2.Pressing Not as Specified 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks

ZONE B Major

Major Major Major Major Major Minor Minor Major Minor Major Minor Major Major Critical

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Major Major

Major

Major

Major Major Major Minor Major

Major -


AII-10

Classification of Visual Defects Woven Shirts E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4" 2.Attached Sewing Threads Over 1/4" 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside Garment 4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread 5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" 6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" 7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots 8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible 9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion 10.Component Parts Not Securely Tacked 11.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments 12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket ***babyGap / GapKids*** 13. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 14. Stones in Garments ***babyGap / GapKids*** 15. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major

Major


Minor Major Minor Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical


AII-11

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Woven Shirts


AII-12

Classification of Visual Defects Denim Shirts A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Uneven Bleach Streaks 2.Dirt Spots 3.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear 4.Shaded Parts 5.Poor Matching of Color or Print Patterns 6.Texture Change 7.Bleach Spot 8.Stone Bruises 9. Shading Between Garments B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Misweaves up to 1/4" 2.Misweaves Over 1/4" 3.Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not 4.Fabric Not as Specified 5.Non-Characteristic Slubs

ZONE A Major Major Major Major

ZONE B Major Major Major Major

Major Major Major Major Major


ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Minor Major

Major Major Major

Major Major Minor

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major 2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major 3.One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major 4.More Than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major 5. Incorrect Stitch Type Major 6. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge > 1/16" Major 7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16" Major 8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under Part Major 9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep 10.Stitch Count Variation Over +2 or -1 Per Inch Major 11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major 12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Seam or Fraying Major 13.Uneven Front Placket >1/8" at Bottom Major 14.Incorrect Placket Width 1/8" or Less Major 15.Incorrect Placket Width Over 1/8" Major 16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2 Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps More Than 1/4" in Relation to Each Other Major 17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major 18.Uneven Collar Points Over 1/8" Major 19.Collar Overlap When Buttoned Major 20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major

ZONE B Minor Major Major Major Major Minor Minor Major Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major 22.Incorrect Button Major 23.Missing Button Major 24.Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8" Tolerance Major 25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major 26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside Major 27.Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poorly Sewn Pleat Major 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes up to 1/8" Major 29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes Over 1/8" Major 30.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major 31.Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major 32.Needle Chews up to 1 Per Inch Major 33.Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major 34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or Ticket Placement Major 35. Sharp Points/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Permanent Crease 2.Pressing Not as Specified 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks

ZONE B

Major Major Major Major Major Minor Minor Major Minor Major Minor Major Major Critical

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Major Major

Major

Major


Major Major


AII-13

Classification of Visual Defects Denim Shirts E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4" 2.Attached Sewing Threads Over 1/4" 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside Garment 4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread 5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" 6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" 7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots 8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visable 9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion 10.Component Parts Not Securely Tacked 11.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments 12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced Label,Ticket or Wrong Ticket ***babyGap / GapKids*** 13. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 14. Stones in Garments


ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major

Major


Minor Major Minor Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

AII-14

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Denim Shirts


AII-15

Classification Of Visual Defects Sweaters A. Appearance and Color (Defects by Zone) DEFECT 1.Unevenq Dye, Dirt Spot 2.Dye Misprint, Dye Smear 3.Shaded Parts 4.Poor Match of Color 5.Light Soil, Foreign Yarn, Visible Oil, Stains 6.Texture Changed 7.Obvious Foreign or Colored Yarn 8.Not Obvious Foreign or Colored Yarn 9. Shading Between Garments B. Knitting Components (Defects by Zone) DEFECT 1.Slubs and Misweaves 2.Slubs Larger Than Loop 3GG,5GG,7GG-up 3.Barre, Bent Needle Slubs up To Size Of Loop 4.Hole Dropped Stitch Not Repaired 5.Improper Sightly Repair 6.Any Pattern Error 7.Biased Pattern 1/2" Side to Side

ZONE A Major Major Major Major

ZONE B Major Major Major Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major

Major Major

Minor Major

ZONE A Major

ZONE B Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major Major Major

Major Minor Major

Major

Major

C. Linking/Sewing - Seams + Stitches (Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 1.One or More Skip Stitch or Any Skip in a Chain Stitch Major 2.Incorrect Stitch Type Major 3.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major 4.Raw Edge, Open Seam Broken Stitch, Loose Stitch Major 5.Incorrect Thread Color Major 6.Needle Perforation Major 7.Misaligned Inserts, Pockets, Gussets, Over 1/8" Major 8.Loose Elastic Tension At Bottom 9.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major 10.Buttonhols With Broken Stitches Major 11.Misplaced Button Over 1/4" Major 12.Missing Button Major 13.Mismatch Stripes Sideseam Up To 1/4" (Plackets Over 1/4") Major 14.Standard Weight Per Garment Out of Tolerance Major 15. Sharp Points/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical


D. Pressing (Defects by Zone) DEFECT 1.Permanent Crease 2.Poorly Pressed or Excessively Creased 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Attached Linking Threads Over 1/4" 2.Attached Threads Over 2" Inside of Garment 3.Knot Yarn Ends up to 1/4" 4.Knot Yarn Ends Over 1/4" 5.Pull Loop Snags 6.Stain Soil Under 1/8" 7.Stain Soil Over 1/8" 8.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots 9.Component Parts Not Securely Tacked 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments 11.Pattern and Garment Assementric Not More Than 1" 12.Shape Not as Specified 13.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket ***babyGap / GapKids*** 14. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 15. Stones in Garments ***babyGap / GapKids*** 16. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A Major

ZONE B Major

Major

Minor

Major

Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Major

Major Major Major Major Major Major

Minor Major Major Minor Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Critical


AII-16

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Sweaters


AII-17

Classification of Visual Defects Woven Bottoms A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot 2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear 3.Shaded Parts 4.Foreign or Color Yarn < or = 1/2" 5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2" 6.Poor Matching of Color or Print Patterns 7.Texture Change 8.Bleach Spot 9. Shading Between Garments B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Misweaves > 1/4" 2.Misweaves < OR = 1/4" 3.Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not 4.Fabric Not as Specified 5.Non-Characteristics Slubs



Minor Major

Minor



ZONE A Major Minor

ZONE B Major Minor

Major Major Major

Major Major Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" on Outside Minor 2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" on Outside Major 3. Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4" On Inside Minor 4. Run Off Stitches > 1/4" on Inside Major 5. One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major 6.More Than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major 7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch Minor 8.Incorrect Stitch Type Major 9.Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major 10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major 11.Stitchcount Variation Over +2 or -1 Per Inch Major 12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major 13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Seam or Fraying Major 14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt > + or - 1/8" Major 15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket Major 16.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major 17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper Major 18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back Seam) < or = 1/4" Minor 19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back Seam) > 1/4" Major 20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8" Minor 21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8" Major

ZONE B Minor Major Minor Major Major Major Minor Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major -

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over Width of Topstitch Major 23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or Poorly Sewn Seams Major 24.Sewn in Pleat Outside Major 25.Sewn in Pleat Inside < or = 1/4" Minor 26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4" Major 27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts Over 1/8" Major 28.Waistband Width at Ends (Front or Back) + or - 1/4" Major 29.Alignment of Waistband Over 1/8" Major 30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement Over 1/4" Major 31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting More Than 1/8" Major 32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8" Each Side 33.Uneven Hem Front to Back >1/4" 34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major 35.Buttonholes With Broken or Unrepairable Threads Major 36.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole or Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major 37.Missing Button or Rivet Major 38.Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major 39.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major 40.Interlining or Garment Part Twisted Major 41.Crows Feet Major 42. Sharp Points/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 1.Poor Press Major 2.Permanent Crease Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.One or More Sewing Threads < or = 1/4" on Outside 2.One or More Sewing Threads > 1/4" on Outside 3.Thread Cluster on Inside 4.More Than Four Threads > 1/2" or One or More Threads > 1" on Inside 5.One or More Attached Threads At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside 6.Sewn in Waste or Thread 7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8"

ZONE B Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Critical ZONE B Minor Major Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major

Major Major Major

Major Minor


AII-18

Classification of Visual Defects Woven Bottoms E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) Continued DEFECT 8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8" 9.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rub Spots 10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of Band or End Finish 11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches 12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Frays 13.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments 14.Twisted Legs Over 1" 15.Insecure Setting of Part 16.Incorrect Thread or Acc. 17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket 18.Missing or Incorrect Labels 19.Incorrect Folding 20.Uneven Elastification ***babyGap / GapKids*** 21. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 22. Stones in Garments ***babyGap / GapKids*** 23. Drawstrings

ZONE A Major

ZONE B Major

Major

Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major




Major Minor Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical


AII-19

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Woven Bottoms


AII-20

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Woven Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front. (Measure from below the waist)


AII-21

Classification of Visual Defects Denim Bottoms A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot 2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear 3.Shaded Parts 4.Foreign or Color Yarn < or = 1/2" 5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2" 6.Poor Matching of Color or Print Patterns 7.Texture Change 8.Bleach Spot 9. Shading Between Garments B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Misweaves> 1/4" 2.Misweaves < or = 1/4" 3.Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not 4.Fabric Not as Specified 5.Non-Characteristic Slubs



Minor Major

Minor



ZONE A Major Minor

ZONE B Major Minor

Major Major Major

Major Major Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" on Outside Minor 2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" on Outside Major 3.Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4" on Inside Minor 4.Run Off Stitches > 1/4" on Inside Major 5.One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major 6.More Than One Skip Stitch on a Lockstitch Major 7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch Minor 8.Incorrect Stitch Type Major 9.Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major 10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major 11.Stitchcount Variation Over +2 or -1 Per Inch Major 12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major 13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Seam or Fraying Major 14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt > + or - 1/8" Major 15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket Major 16.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major 17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper Major 18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back Seam) < or = 1/4" Minor 19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back Seam) > 1/4" Major 20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8" Minor

ZONE B Minor Major Minor Major Major Major Minor Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major -

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A 21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8" Major 22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over Width of Topstitch Major 23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or Poorly Sewn Seams Major 24.Sewn in Pleat Outside Major 25.Sewn in Pleat Inside < or = 1/4" Minor 26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4" Major 27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts Over 1/8" Major 28.Waistband Width at Ends (Front or Back) + or - 1/4" Major 29.Alignment of Waistband Over 1/8" Major 30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement Over 1/4" Major 31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting More Than 1/8" Major 32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8" Each Side 33.Uneven Hem Front to Back >1/4" 34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major 35.Buttonholes With Broken or Unrepairable Threads Major 36.Misplaced Button,Buttonhole or Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major 37.Missing Button or Rivet Major 38.Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major 39.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major 40.Interlining or Garment Part Twisted Major 41.Crows Feet Major 42. Sharp Points/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Poor Press 2.Permanent Crease 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks E.Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.One or More Sewing Threads < or = 1/4" on Outside 2.One or More Sewing Threads > 1/4" on Outside 3.Thread Cluster on Inside 4.More Than Four Threads> 1/2" or One or More Threads > 1" on Inside

ZONE B Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Major Critical

ZONE A Major Major

ZONE B Minor Major

Major

Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major


AII-22

Classification of Visual Defects Denim Bottoms E. Cleanliness (Defects by Zone) DEFECT 5.One or More Attached Theads At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside 6.Sewn in Waste or Thread 7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8" 8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8" 9.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rub Spots 10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of Band or End Finish 11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches 12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Frays 13.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments 14.Twisted Legs Over 1" 15.Insecure Setting of Part 16.Incorrect Thread or Acc. 17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket 18.Missing or Incorrect Labels 19.Incorrect Folding 20.Uneven Elastification ***babyGap / GapKids*** 21. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 22. Stones in Garments ***babyGap / GapKids*** 23. Drawstrings

ZONE A

ZONE B


Major Major Major

Major

Major

Major Major

Major Major

Major

Major




Major Major Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical


A-23

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Denim Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front. (Measure from below the waist) Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-24

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Denim Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front. (Measure from below the waist) Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-25

Classification of Visual Defects Blazers A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) ZONE A

ZONE B

1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak

Major

Major

2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear

Major

Major

3.Shaded Parts

Major

Major

25.Improper Interfacing/Lining, Exces-

Major

Major

26.Lining Twisted or

Major

Minor

27.Any Needle Chews

Major

Major

7.Texture Change

Major

Major

8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified

Major

Major

9. Shading Between Garments

Major

Major

4.Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

Garment Part Twisted

6.Poor Matching of Color or Print Patterns

ZONE A

ZONE B

Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear

Major

Major

2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4"

Major

Major

1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4"

or Not, Needle Cut, Tear

ZONE B

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Accessories

Major

Major

29.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or Major

Major

30.Mishaped Pocket Welt

Ticket Placement

Major

-

31.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8"

Major

-

32.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8"

Major

-

Major

Major

Major

Major

-

Major

Major

Major

33.Uneven Pleating in Seam, Shirring or Poorly Sewn

3.Holes of Any Size Repaired

34.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed Darts Over 1/8" 35.Uneven Hem/Bottom of Blazer

Major

Major

Major

Major

36.Severe Puckering and Badly

to Size of Loop

Major

Minor

37.Incorrect Tack Placement

6.Improper Repair

Major

Minor

7.Any Pattern Errors

Major

Major

4.Fabric/Lining Not as Specified

ZONE A

28. Incorrect Thread or

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) DEFECT

Over 1/8" sive Fullness of Parts

5.Not Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

DEFECT 24.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes

5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs up

Over 1/8" Each Side Roped Hem or Missing Bartack 38.Misplaced Buttonhole Over 1/2"

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

-

Critical

Critical

39.Misplaced Button Over 1/8" C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) DEFECT

or Missing Button ZONE A

ZONE B

1.Run Off Stitches on Inside up to 1/8"

Major

Minor

2.Run Off Stitches on Inside Over 1/8"

Major

Major

3.One or More Skip Stitch on Any Stitch Type 4.Incorrect Stitch Type

Part or Lining

Major

-

-

Major

Major

43. Uneven Back/Side Vents

Major

Major

44. Twisted/Misaligned Lining

Major

Major

45. Improperly Attached Buttons

Major

-

46. Resew on Lapel

Major

-

47. Exposed Basting Stitch

Major

Major

48. Improper Lapel Placement

Major

-

Major

-

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Minor

Major

Major

7.Any Exposed Stitch, Under 8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep

Hardware or Broken Needles

Major

6.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/16"

41. Sharp Points/ Edges on 42. Twisted Sleeve

5.Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge Over 1/8"

40.Crows Feet

49. Lapel Width Side to Side Major

Major

-

Major

Variance> 1/8"

9.Stitch Count Variation Over +2 or -1 Per Inch 10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension

Major

Major

Major

Major

11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Seam or Fraying 12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8"

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major

2.Poorly Pressed

Major

Major

3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Major

Major

Major

-

4. Improper Break of Lapel

Major

-

5. Excessive Wrinkle in V Zone

Major

-

Pressure Marks

14.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way Plaid Match Over 1/16"

DEFECT 1.Permanent Crease Not to Spec

Major

13.High-Low Pockets or Pocket Flaps> 1/4"

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)

Major

-

15.Mishaped Lapel Point

Major

-

16.Incorrect Size Buttonhole

Major

Major

Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches

Major

Major

18.Incorrect Button

Major

Major

19.Missing Button

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

17.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,

20.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in 4-Hole or Upside Down 21.Sewn in Pleats 22.Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poorly Sewn Pleat 23.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes up to 1/8"


AII-26

Classification of Visual Defects Blazers E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) DEFECT 1.Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4" 2.Attached Sewing Threads Over 1/4" 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside of Gsrment 4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread 5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" 6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" 7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots 8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible 9.Compoment Parts Not Securely Tacked 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garmentsq 11.Pile Direction Not as Specified 12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or Ticket Placement 13.Attached Sewing Threads at Collar Area Over 1/8" 14.Incorrect Folding ***babyGap / GapKids*** 15. Loose Components ***babyGap / GapKids*** 16. Stones in Garments

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Minor

Major

Major


Major Major Minor Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical


AII-27

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Blazers


AII-28

Classification of Visual Defects Bras A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT

C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak

Major

Major

24. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,

2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear

Major

Major

Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,

3. Shaded Parts

Major

Major

Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping

4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

Major

Major

25. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,

Major

Minor

26. Severe Puckering/Twisting/

or Print Patterns

Major

Major

27. Missing Trim

7. Texture Change

Major

Major

28. Misshaped Parts- Such as


Major

Major

9. Assymentrical Cup Depth > 1/4"

Major

0

Major

Major

Major

Major

5. Not Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

Spacing, Stitch Count

6. Poor Matching of Color

Curling

10. Incorrect Color of Component, Thread, Trim 11. Trim/Thread Not as Specified

DEFECT

"Rounding" Cups

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

-

Critical

-

Critical

-

29. Protruding UnderwireOut of Channel 30. Sharp Points or Jagged Edges on Trim 31. Component Parts Not Securely


Tacked ZONE A

ZONE B

32. Insecure Setting of Part

Major

Major

Major

Major

1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not

Major

Major

33. Top of Cups Assymetrical > 1/8"

Major

-

2. Fabric Not as Specified

Major

Major

34. Straps Assymetrical > 1/4"

Major

-

3. Slubs and Misweaves
Major

Minor

35. Bottom Band Assymetrical > 1/4"

Major

-

36. Underarm Elastic Assymetrical > 1/4"

Major

-

4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle, Needle Line, Barre

37. Center Front Placement of Bra Major

Major

5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, Blotches, Print Out of Register

Assymetrical to Cups> 1/16" 38. Improper Repair

Major

Major

6. Bow or Bias Fabric

Major

Major

7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors

Major

Major

8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified

Major

Major

Major

-

Major

Major

39. Underwire Play > 1/4" & >1/4" Between Cups 40. Broken Needle Point Within Garment

Major

-

Critical

Critical

ZONE A

ZONE B

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) DEFECT

DEFECT ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Permanent Crease Not as Specified

Major

1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16"

Major

Major

Minor

2. Poorly Pressed

Major

Minor

2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16"

Major

Major

3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled

Major

Major

4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks

Major

Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose Stitches Any Type

Major

Major

4. Incorrect Stitch Type

Major

Major

E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE)

Needle to Edge of 1/16"

Major

Minor

1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS
MAJOR

MINOR

6. Stitching Margin > 1/16"

Major

Major

2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4"

MAJOR

MAJOR

7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart

Major

Major

3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2"

MAJOR

MAJOR

8. Hem Too Deep

Major

Major

4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS

MAJOR

MAJOR

5. STAIN OR SOIL
MAJOR

MINOR

6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8"

MAJOR

MAJOR

7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM

MAJOR

5. Stitching Margin Variation

DEFECT

9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1 Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch

Major

Major

Major

Major

10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2 Zig Zag Stitch 11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3 3 Step Zig Zag Stitch

OR RUBBED SPOTS

MAJOR

8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK Major

Major

12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle

VISIBLE NOTCHES 9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED

Looper or Bobbin

Major

Major

13. Cross Over Stitches

Major

Major

14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose

MAJOR

MAJOR

MAJOR

N/A MAJOR

10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG, TRIM OR PLACEMENT

MAJOR

11. INCORRECT FOLDING

MAJOR

N/A

MAJOR

N/A

Seam, Fraying

Major

Major

12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S)

15. Misaligned Parts

Major

Major

13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL

MAJOR

N/A

14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING

MAJOR

N/A

16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn Pleat or Dart

Major

Major

15. THREAD KNOTS

MAJOR

N/A

17. Sewn in Pleats

Major

Major

16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS

MAJOR

MAJOR

18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8"

Major

Major

19. Improper Interlining

Major

Major

20. Excessive Fullness in Parts

Major

Major

21. Twisting to Component Parts

Major

Major

22. Twisted Straps

Major

-

MAJOR

MAJOR

23. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion


AII-29

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Bras & Bodysuits

Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.


AII-30

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Bras & Bodysuits

Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.


AII-31

Classification of Visual Defects Underwear A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) DEFECT

C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak

Major

N/A

23. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,

2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear

Major

N/A

Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,

3. Shaded Parts

Major

N/A

Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping

4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

Major

N/A

24. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,

Major

N/A

25. Severe Puckering/Twisting/

or Print Patterns

Major

N/A

26. Missing Trim

7. Texture Change

Major

N/A

27. Misshaped Parts- Such as


Major

N/A

5. Not Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

Spacing, Stitch Count

6. Poor Matching of Color

Curling

9. Incorrect Color of Component, Thread, Trim 10. Trim/Thread Not as Specified

"Rounding" Cups

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not

Major

N/A

2. Fabric Not as Specified

Major

N/A

3. Slubs and Misweaves
Major

N/A

4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch,

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Tacked

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

30. Legs Assymetrical > 1/4" or Uneven Elastification

Major

N/A

31. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides > 4"

Major

N/A

32. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides < 4"

Major

N/A

33. Improper Repair

Major

N/A

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) DEFECT Major

N/A

5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, Blotches, Print Out of Register

ZONE B

29. Insecure Setting of Part

End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle, Needle Line, Barre

ZONE A

28. Component Parts Not Securely


DEFECT

ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Permanent Crease

Major

N/A

2. Poorly Pressed

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled

Major

N/A

6. Bow or Bias Fabric

Major

N/A

4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks

Major

N/A

7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors

Major

N/A

8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified

Major

N/A

ZONE A

ZONE B

E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE) DEFECT

C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) DEFECT

1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS
MAJOR

N/A

2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4"

MAJOR

N/A

ZONE A

ZONE B

3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2"

MAJOR

N/A

1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16"

Major

N/A

4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS

MAJOR

N/A

2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16"

Major

N/A

5. STAIN OR SOIL
MAJOR

N/A

6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8"

MAJOR

N/A

7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM

MAJOR

3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose Stitches Any Type

Major

N/A

4. Incorrect Stitch Type

Major

N/A

5. Stitching Margin Variation

OR RUBBED SPOTS

Needle to Edge of 1/16"

Major

N/A

6. Stitching Margin > 1/16"

Major

N/A

9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED

7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart

Major

N/A

10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG,

8. Hem Too Deep

Major

N/A

9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1 Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch

Major

N/A

10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2 Zig Zag Stitch

Major

N/A

11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3 3 Step Zig Zag Stitch

N/A

8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK

Major

N/A

VISIBLE NOTCHES

MAJOR

N/A

MAJOR

N/A

TRIM OR PLACEMENT

MAJOR

N/A

11. INCORRECT FOLDING

MAJOR

N/A

12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S)

MAJOR

N/A

13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL

MAJOR

N/A

14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING

MAJOR

N/A

15. THREAD KNOTS

MAJOR

N/A

16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS

MAJOR

N/A

12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle Looper or Bobbin

Major

N/A

13. Cross Over Stitches

Major

N/A

Seam, Fraying

Major

N/A

15. Misaligned Parts

Major

N/A

14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose

16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn Pleat or Dart

Major

N/A

17. Sewn in Pleats

Major

N/A

18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8"

Major

N/A

19. Improper Interlining

Major

N/A

20. Excessive Fullness in Parts

Major

N/A

21. Twisting to Component Parts

Major

N/A

22. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion

Major

N/A


AII-32

Gap / GapKids / babyGap Old Navy Banana Republic Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.


AII-33


Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties. Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-34




AII-35




AII-36

Gap Inc. Quality Assurance Manual February, 2001

The End Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001

Gap Quality Manual

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