garment

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Contents START TO END PRECESS CHART ......................................................................................................... 3 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (SAMPLE ROOM) ...................................................................................... 4 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................................ 6 PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT/ CAD department .......................................................................... 7 Job Role of Pattern Maker ............................................................................................................. 7 PLANING DEPARTMENT ..................................................................................................................... 9 WORK-STUDY DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................................... 10 Job Role of I.E Officer................................................................................................................... 10 Efficiency and Performance Calculations...................................................................................... 12 HOW TRIMS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND ISSUED FROM THE FACTORY ........................................ 15 GRN raising.................................................................................................................................. 15 TRIM INSPECTION ........................................................................................................................ 16 ISSUE NOTE ................................................................................................................................. 18 HOW FABRICS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND ISSUED FROM THE FACTORY ..................................... 19 Fabric inspection ......................................................................................................................... 19 Visual Inspection for defects .................................................................................................... 19 Shrinkage test .......................................................................................................................... 22 Shade band process ................................................................................................................. 22 QUALITY CHECKING PROCESS .......................................................................................................... 26 Job Roll of Quality Supervisor ...................................................................................................... 26 Job Roll of Quality Checker .......................................................................................................... 29 Job Roll of Quality In charge......................................................................................................... 30 FINISHING ....................................................................................................................................... 31 Washing receiving ....................................................................................................................... 31 Finishing & Poly bag Packing ........................................................................................................ 31 Carton process ............................................................................................................................ 32 Doing FA (Factory Audit) .............................................................................................................. 33 WARE HOUSE .................................................................................................................................. 33 Carton ......................................................................................................................................... 33 CIF (Central Inspection Facility) .................................................................................................... 33 Loading........................................................................................................................................ 33 System chart process map ............................................................................................................... 34 Brandix College of Clothing Technology

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WASH RECEIVE ............................................................................................................................ 34 FINISHING/ POLY BAG PACKING ................................................................................................... 35 FINISHING / CARTON PAKING ...................................................................................................... 35 FACTORY AUDIT........................................................................................................................... 35 WARE HOUSE/LOADING .............................................................................................................. 35

Brandix College of Clothing Technology

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START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain tech pack from

Costing

Analyze fabric consumption from CAD

Sampling

Analyze cost of trim and fabric

Obtain general sewing data from IED

Develop sample as per Develop proto sample

Prepare cost sheet from sample

Cost sheet sample send to buyer for approval YES

Confirmation of order

Obtain PCD details from production units

NO

Approval

Source trims and fabric from concerned dept.

Book washing and embroider capacity if required

Cost sheet reworked

Obtain GSD from IED

Execution of order by entering details in ERP

Prepare sample as per buyer requirements

Forward the sample to buyer for approval

Hold pre-production meeting with production unit

Execute bulk order

YES

Follow up with production department & update the buyer

Approval

NO

Submit required documents to documentation dept.


Comments receiving from buyer should be incorporated and fit sample reworked

Offer garments for final inspection. Truck out

Follow up on the payments for goods

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (SAMPLE ROOM) When the merchant received the Tech-pack from the he arrange a product screening meeting which is a 15min. discussion between merchant and senior technicians. At this time they consider five major points Cycle time

the time taken to complete 01 garment (if it is normal wash most probably 5days)

Fabric

whether the fabric is suitable for our machineries (as an example knitted fabrics and thin woven fabrics are not feasible with the machines in Brandix casual wear)

Wash

have consider about fabric gauge coz thin fabrics cannot use hard wash

Machineries

have to check whether we have enough Sawing machine types to develop it

Construction

sometimes we are not able with the design practically.

If it can develop pattern maker draw the pattern using spec and make a marker to calculate the YY (yards per yield) and next marketing department consider labor cost, machine cost, YY value and all the other cost and adding some buffer and giving to the buyer the cost. If buyer is OK with the cost then style hand over meeting is being held. The key team in this meeting is :-Merchant Pattern Maker Technical Officer Work-study Officer if the style is feasible the minutes of the meeting (construction detail recording sheet) is handover to everyone to develop the sample. But the merchant has to book a plan from the planning department 03 days before making the sample. After that systematically developing the sample

Planing Section

Sewing section

in line QC

Package Recerving Section

Print & Embroider Section

Washing section

Pattern Section

Cutting section

Final QC


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Sometimes more samples have to send to the buyer. They are, • Salesmen samples or promotional samples • Proto samples or fit samples • Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples • Wash test samples • Photo samples • Fashion show samples • Pre-production samples • Production samples • Shipment samples - Salesmen samples or promotional samples Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The salesmen will book the orders from their customers, by showing these samples. Buyer will place the order to us accumulating the quantities. - Photo samples or fit samples These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications. Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or buyer’s promotional occasions. - Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims. If the order is for 3 colors, buyer may need samples in any one colour and swatches (fabric bits) in other colors. These samples should be strictly as per the specifications in the order sheets. We have to get the approval for these samples from the buyer before starting production. After getting the approval, the approved samples should be followed in production. Sometimes, buyer may comment on fabric, measurements, making, etc. We have to follow his comments carefully in production. - Wash test samples If these samples are sent before starting production and if we get some remarks or comments on these samples, we can correct them in production. But some buyers will need us to send these samples from production before shipment. In this case, these samples may be considered as ‘shipment samples’.


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MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT Merchandiser has to do a major role in garment industry. When buyer sends the tech-pack he have to take the response to order trims and fabrics, make the sample and sent to buyers, and cost the sample and negotiate the Best Deal. Merchant have the responsibility to deliver the goods on time. To do this job easily and neatly Merchandising has divided into to several categories. Development Merchant : From the beginning to PP approval Development merchant has to deal with Buyers and make the business. And also he has to do an initial booking to develop samples Operation Merchant : according to the order operation merchant has to prepare cut letters. This cut letters are very useful to identify the styles until the end of the process Procurement Merchant : has to order the trims and fabrics according to the buyers requirements and built PO numbers to the style. Most probably garment factories purchase the orders from nominate suppliers. There are many advantages and few disadvantages of dealing only with nominate suppliers. Advantages  They always try to maintain their goodwill.  Work accurately in to deadlines.  Easy to identify the goods from Trademarks. Disadvantages  Nominate suppliers may little bit expensive than others.


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PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT/ CAD department

Computer-aided design (CAD) is used by the textile industry to improve design capabilities and to document the design process. CAD software for textiles is designed to streamline the design side of the business and often offers cost-saving benefits

Job Role of Pattern Maker Have to draw the pattern according to tech-pack and they have to make changes according to customer’s comments. When they draw a pattern they have to add the sawing lost and shrinkage percentage also. (Mockup and shrinkage sample is done for find this) after that they draw a marker for the first sample that sends to buyer its call 1st fit and it made of available trims & fabric. According to buyers comments most probably have to go for 2nd 3rd till buyer satisfies with the style. Then after buyer ok with the fit he ask to send the PP sample it is the final sample which made of actual trims and fabrics.

Different types of CAD software can be used to design curves and figures in either 2D, 3D or both. Gerber's Textile CAD Software US-based Gerber Technology recently introduced a new version of its AccuMark CAD software called AccuMark 8.4.1. The new technology can be used for pattern design, marker making, grading and nesting. According to the company it can protect against lost work in the event of power failures and helps textile firms to minimize fabric waste. CAD Software from Lectra French company Lectra also specializes in producing CAD software for textiles. Its latest innovations include: Kaledo (V2R1) to help firms improve branding and product design to streamline the design development process; Modaris (V6R1), which speeds up the patternmaking process; and Mosaïc, a system for processing patterned fabrics.

Tuka CAD The latest CAD software that brandix use is TUKA Cad Why Choose TUKAcad TUKAcad is the fashion industry's most advanced CAD software system. Developed by programmers with experience in the garment industry, TUKAcad is the worldwide standard in CAD systems. Tukatech offers extensive training and unparalleled customer support to ensure that each customer fully utilizes all of TUKAcad's many time-saving features.


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Comparison between CAD marker making & manual marker making:

1. In manual system the system is used to make maker for garment making is traditional. But in CAD system marker making is done in modern system. 2. Marker efficiencies is not visible in manual system. Other hand, marker efficiency is visible in CAD system. 3. Marker length is not visible in manual system. Marker length is visible in monitor screen at CAD system. 4. In manual, once marker is made, not possible to increase its efficiency. But in CAD it is possible to increase the efficiency at any time. 5. Marker copying is not possible manually. In CAD, by using Plotter as much as possible copy can be done. 6. Manual marker making is very time consuming method whereas, CAD is a faster method. 7. In manual system quality cannot be assured. It has quality assurance. 8. Manual system costing is low but CAD is expensive.


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PLANING DEPARTMENT After the merchants book a date planning department makes a ruff plans to cutting section, trim section to check whether the trims and fabrics have in-house to the sample stores if that so cutting section and trim section prepare deferent packages according to different bookings and mark the complete packages and give back the ruff plans to the planning department. Then the planning department prepares the final plan to develop the sample and give it to work-study officers to draw line wise layouts to the production flow


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WORK-STUDY DEPARTMENT

Job Role of I.E Officer

Monthly Routing: 1. List the machine requirement by calculating & send it to the work study officer in planning.  Should do for all styles of next month plan at 25 th of the month. 2. End of the 2nd week; prepare the machine requirement of the next 2 weeks by considering the revision of the plan& give it to the work study officer in planning. 3. Do grading for operators & for helpers.  Do it for after 6 months.  For new operators – after 3 months.

Daily Routing: 1. Check the absenteeism of the line & balance the line for actual cadre with running efficiency level.  It should be filling for agreed layout of cadre. 2. Prepare incentives of the line & show it to the line. 3. Fill the reason & transferring form of previous day.  Need to highlight factory loss hours & accuracy. 4. Participate to daily forecast meeting at 9.00 A.M. 5. Do capacity study for replaced operators, if they are not performing to meet the target. 6. Do the production study for bottle neck operations.  Arrange the handling.  Reduce the unnecessary motions.  Do the production study for 30 minutes.  Fill the production/time study sheet.  End of the study, show it to the operator & sign it. 7. Interview the new recruitments. 8. Improve the methods of operations according to the GSD pattern.


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For new style: 1. After receive the production plan, get the style file & check it with the approved sample.  Revise the operations of style file if need, inform it to GSD cell & get the final style file. 2. Participate to PP meeting. 3. Participate to technical meeting.  Discuss technical issues & methods of sewing 4. Prepare the machine layout.  Consider the details which were discussed at the technical meeting.  That should prepare to achieve the 100% efficiency. 5. Arrange the layout meeting.  Discuss the operations & operators who are suitable for the operations according to the machine layout. 6. 1 1/2 days before of the line feeding should prepare the feeding plan & give it to technical department & to production supervisor.  For prepare that need the WIP of previous day. 7. Arrange the machines according to the machine layout. 8. Check the thread consumption of the bulk out put of1stday.  Check the threads which relevant to the operation with the thread sheet.  When there is revising of threads should inform to the GSD cell. 9. At the 4th day of after line feeding, do capacity checks for each operator & for helper.  Fill& issue the line bar chart sheet.  Should achieve the planning peak efficiency level.  Identify the critical operations & balance it with the operators & helpers. 10. Do the production study, if necessary & prove the capacity. 11. If there is a critical operation which has not been achieved the SMV, it should bring the motions of the operation from GSD cell.  If it is need to revise the motions, inform it to the GSD cell. KPI`S 1. 2. 3. 4.

Achieve the plan efficiency. Achieve the plan SAH (Standard Actual Hours). Achieve the planning pieces. Innovations- saving of SMV


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Efficiency and Performance Calculations ( .

=

=

) ×

.

× ×


.

.

×

×

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SMV SMV – time that is allowed to perform the job satisfactory. SMV = Basic time + Allowances Standard Minute Value

Basic Time The basic time for the operation is found by applying concept of rating to relate the observed to that of a standard place of working. Calculated as follows: Basic time = observed time * observed rating 100 (BT = Observed time * Observed Rating = A constant) 100

Types of allowance 1. relaxation allowance Personal needs (from 5 to 7% of basic time) Basic fatigue (4 % of basic time) 2. Contingency Allowances (less than 5 percent) 3. Machine attention Allowances Single needle lockstitch – 9% - 12% Double needle lockstitch – 14% - 17% Three thread over lock - 7% Four thread over lock - 9% Five thread over lock -11%


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SMV calculation

Total basic time/garment (brought forward) Add machine attention allowances 7% 7% for (0.480 + 0.504) = 0.07 x 0.984 = 0.069 Basic time + MAA (1.416 + 0.069) Add personal needs and relaxation allowances 14% 14% of 1.485 = 0.14 x 1.485 = 0.208 Standard minute Value (SMV) = Basic time + all allowances

1.416 0.069 1.485 0.028 1.693

GSD – General Sawing Data According to ISO Productivity, GSD (Corporate) Ltd. Have given standard minute values for each of every Garments Operations, using these SMV values can get a idea about the cost of the garment.


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HOW TRIMS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND ISSUED FROM THE FACTORY Suppliers supplies the goods with a “PACKING LIST” and “INVOICE”, Compare the goods in the vehicle with the PACKING LIST by STORE KEEPER and in-house the Goods. Only the labels and boxes are checked by the Store keeper according to the “PACKING LIST” and “INVOICE”. TEL : PO # : DESIGN : QTY : WGT: BOXES __OF___ C/N :

PACKING LIST

INVOICE

 If there is, Excessive supply, Not enough Goods, Not in Good conditions, have to inform to MERCHANT immediately. Then STORE KEEPER gives the invoice + advice note + packing list to GRN Raising team and same time the copy of those detail sheets gives to Location owners in the Stores. Collects his goods and he store in a suitable location. Locations are categorized as Item wise and sub categorized as buyer wise. Location owners’ (Helper) M&S

M&S GAP

GAP

Label M&S

M&S

Button

Zipper

M&S

M&S GAP

GAP

Sticker

GAP

Tags

GAP

Poly bags

Then he compares the goods with invoice and a count is taken after checking the contents inside. If the quantity is equal through STORE KEEPER he tells to GRN Raising team to raise a GRN.

GRN raising In this step all the goods we received is entered to the iNCITO System and till the quality inspection is passed it is automatically locked through the system to issue Delivery Advice Note (DAN) or Factory Issue Note (FIN)


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After GRN is raised Storekeeper gives the GRN copies to Rack location owner and to trim inspection team.

TRIM INSPECTION Trim inspection team have to take a random stock according to General Inspection Level to check the quality. There are deferent sample sizes for Sewing trims and Packing trims and sample size depends on the batch size too. GENERAL INSPECTION LEVEL (SINGLE NORMAL -03) LOT OF BATCH SIZE SAMPLE SIZE ACCEPTABLE LEVEL (SEWING -1.5) 8-5 5 0 16-25 8 0 26-50 13 0 51-90 20 0 91-150 32 1 151-280 50 2 281-500 80 3 501-1200 125 5 1201-3200 200 7 3201-10,000 315 10 10,001-35,000 500 14 35,001-150,000 800 21 150,000-500,000 1250 21

ACCEPTABLE LEVEL (PACKING – 2.5) 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 21

Sewing Trims and their inspection points Tread

TKT FLY DYE PATCH

Zipper

SEAM ALLOWENCE Top Bottom Side LOGO EMBOSE FUNCTION

Label

INSTRUCTION SEAM ALLOWENCE WEAVING DEFECTS


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Tape

DYE PATCH WEAVING DEFECTS

Velcro

DYE PATCH SEAM ALLOWENCE

Elastic

DYE PATCH SEAM ALLOWENCE

Hanger Loop

DYE PATCH WEAVING DEFECTS SELVAGE DAMAGE

Buckle

NORMAL CROSS CHECKING L-SIDE/R-SIDE

Button

LINE LOGO EMBOSE

Hook & bar / Reverts

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FIX IT PROPERLY HOOK HIGHT

Packing Trims and their inspection points Hanger

ADJUSTABLITY

Size tab

FIX ABILITY

Tag / sticker

INSTRUCTION BARCODE READING

Poly bag

INSTRUCTION CLOSE ENDS GAUGE

Cartons

FIX ABILITY


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Those trims are checked with an approved trim card and prepare another few trim cards.

And the location owner compares the goods quantity again with the GRN  

If not tally with GRN through STOREKEEPER the Location owner reports to GRN raising team. If tally then he waits until he received ISSUE NOTE

ISSUE NOTE ISSUE NOTE is prepared by the coordinator from iNCITO System. Planning department send the Plans to the coordinator. And the PURCHACE ORDER + TRIM REQUIREMENT SHEETS + other details are already updated in the iNCITO. The coordinator conceder those details and makes the ISSUE NOTES for each of every TRIM Category and deliver it to the suitable Location owners’ according to issue notes location owner have to issue the exact amount of trims to the correct plant.  To button location owner it is impossible to count the exact amount of buttons in issue note. So he considers the amounts have labeled in the packages and for the deficiency there is a scaling system.


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HOW FABRICS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND ISSUED FROM THE FACTORY According to style which buyer requires, our washing plant prepares 3Lap-dips and send it to buyers A

B

C

If buyer requests the colour B, we select a supplier available to supply B and request colour B from him. Then he prepare a dye recipe dye a sample role and supplier says he can supply us the colour with ± B B B B B

Then it also sends to the supplier and has to take an approval. Most probably happening is if the range is already approved in buyers manual or it is in range of 4-5 in gray scale we allow to supplier to supply the fabrics The STORE KEEPER checks the fabrics with the PACKING LIST based on Rollers and Colors Then he in-house the rollers, color wise. After inspecting all the roles those roles are labeled from a sticker which creates from the FOSS system, it contains barcode and PO info. As soon as the fabrics is unloaded to pallets and stored in the quarantine area, depending on whether or not the factory has received the head-end(1/2yrd*full width). It is the duty of the MESURING TEAM to take headend of each role and measure the cut-able width. Then it sends to the fabric inspection department. At the same time the fabric roles are placed in racks. Then a sticker is pasted on the pallet and then is shifted on to the rack every rack consist of a barcode, through a barcode reader the barcodes of the roles and the pallets are linked with the barcode in the rack to the FOSS System.

Fabric inspection Visual Inspection for defects Sample selection Except small quantity of bulk and If buyer haven’t required a special percentage or the sampling, Most probably 10% sampling is done. From the packing list and invoice we can see the combination of dye lots according to roles. So we consider the ratio of the roles in different dye lots and do the 10% sampling STANDARD: 4 point system Range Defect length less than 3 inches between 3 inches-6 inches between 3 inches-6 inches more than 9inches

points 1 2 3 4

How to grade the samples according to defects POINTS PER 100yrd2 Brandix College of Clothing Technology

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Defects on yarn; • Broken end/picks-where a filling /end break leaves a pick/wrap missing for a portion of the width/end of the fabric. • Coarse end/ picks- an end/ pick whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the fabric. • Fine ends/picks- an end/ pick whose diameter is noticeably smaller than that normal to the fabric. • Knots- a place where two ends of yarn are tied or balled together. • Neps - an excessive amount of tangled masses of fiber (neps) appearing on the fabric. • Slub- a short thick places in a yarn usually symmetrical. Defects on weaving; • Stop mark- a defect resulting from the warp yarn elongating under tension while a loom is stopped; when it is started again the slackness is taken up by the weave, leaving a distortion across the width of the fabric. • Thick place- a lace across the width containing more picks or heavier filling than that. • Thin place- a lace across the width containing less picks or lighter filling yarn than that normal to the fabric. • Float- a thread extending unbound over or under thread of the opposite yarn system with which it should have been interlaced. • Hole- a break in the fabric involving a minimum of two or more yarns. • Miss-pick- an incorrect sequence of welt insertion Defects on finishing; • Skew- in woven, where the filling yarns are off square to the Warp ends, in knits. Where the courses are off square to the Wales. • Bow- in woven’s, where the filling yarns lie in an area across the width of the fabric, in knits, where the courses lie in are across the width of the fabric. • Crease mark- a mark left in a fabric after a crease has been removed. It may be caused by mechanical damage to the fibers at the fold, by variation in treatment due to the construction along the fold, or by disturbance of the fabric structure. • Misprint-either missed, or partially missed of print pattern. • Smash- the breakage of a large number of warp ends, usually as the result of a shuttle trap. • Stain- color stain or oil stain.

= =

× × × × Total points per all roles

=

× × Minimum width from all roles


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After giving points to sample roles they cut and past the defect types in a defect card

Within roller color variations (shading) In suppliers one dye lot there can be many number of shade lots. Because of this we categorized the roles to several shadings and enter the results to the FOSS system.  

In inspection stage Length wise and width wise shading is checked. Side to side shading and side to center shadings are checked from the 1/2yrd head-end.  Shedding is important very important to decide the maker type Marker types Side to side maker one garment one side -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Skewing/Bowing Since the weaving stage weft yarns should be perpendicular to the warp yarns in a Perfect fabric. If not there can be produced a Skewed or Bowed fabrics. Perfect woven fabric

d1

d

Skewing

Bowing

Take a head-end (6”or 9” x full width) from each of every sample roles by tearing. Keep on edge to other edge and fold the fabric vertically to wefts, then if it is a skewed fabric there will be a distance between other two edges, there is an equation to calculate the skewing percentage………………………………

Take a head-end (6”or 9” x full width) from each of every sample roles by tearing. Keep on edge to other edge and fold the fabric vertically to wefts, then if it is a bowed fabric there will be a curved line with a distance between two ends, there is an equation to calculate the skewing percentage………………………………..

=

×

the distance where measure as “d” w – cut-able width of the fabric

=

%

×

%

the distance where measure as “d” w – cut-able width of the fabric

Why it is important to measure Skewing and Bowing  Because of Skewing the final garment can be twist.  There can be repeat variation Check fabrics. Brandix College of Clothing Technology

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Shrinkage test Shrinkage test is done to each of every head-end which got from every roller. Soon after they checked shadings they cut the head-ends to 2peases, one keep as before wash samples and other Samples measure their dimensions at several places in length and width directions and mark those dimensions and sends to washing plant. After we received the washed samples measure the percentage of shrinkage. All these details are entered to the FOSS system. What is the purpose of measuring it It is very important to draw the marker, when we drawing the pattern to wash garments we have to add the shrinkage percentage and draw the marker if not the garment will be not in the required size after wash. Shade band process From the same samples we used to shrinkage test we have to check the color variations between Roles (shade) and have to prepare a shade band How to prepare a shade band To prepare a shade band we have to consider the shade and have to check whether it is matching to the buyer’s manual when in deferent light sources. Following lights are used in color box; TL84 –Color of American daylight and most of American show rooms use these colors in shops. D65-This light is very much similar to the day light in England. UV (ultra violet)-This light specially used to check white fabric as well as to check the contrast fabric. In contrast fabric it is used check the transparency of under parts near the seams.

REF 01 02 03 04 05 06 07

CUSTOMER M&S LAND’S END OLD NAVY EB GAP BR COLOMBIA

PRIMARY TL84 D65 U35 D65 U35 INCA D65

SECONDARY D65 U35 INCA INCA U35 TL84

Then they prepare a shade band and send to buyer with other relevant details to get the approval. At the end of the Fabric inspection process they have to approve the GRN, without approving GRN no one can make issue notes because the system has blocked it automatically. What are the requirements should be finalized to approve a GRN  Inspection report  Shade band  Shrinkage report  Marker type approval Brandix College of Clothing Technology

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After the GRN is approved only coordinator can issue FIN (Factory Issue Note) or DAN (Delivery Advice Note) according to plans coordinator issue DAN and FIN and gives it to Stores. From the stores the go through the


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Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report Single needle /cutter

06/01/2012

Attaching

Facing attach, pocket bag, J-stitch, Fly attach

Outline

Side seam outline

Attaching

pocket Attach, patch Attach

Outline

Side seam, edge outline,

Over Lock

Attaching

Side seam, inseam, Back rise, Flap edge, facing edge, fly edge

feed of the arm

Outline Clean finish

Side seam, Inseam,

Double needle / 3needle

Kansai Special

Front pocket , waistband close

Bar tack

Front pocket, Pocket bag O/L ends, Loop Attach, Fly

Button hole

Normal hole, Key hole, Eye hole


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Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report Zig Zag

Decoration stitch

Blind Hem


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Label attach, Seam corner as a decoration

Bottom hem Sleeve hem

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QUALITY CHECKING PROCESS Job Roll of Quality Supervisor Documents need: 1. Style file

-

Contract seal comments PP meeting minutes Trim card

2. Contract seal sample 3. Updated mails (by quality in charge)

Line feeding:   

  

Participate to the PP meeting. Discussing quality issues which can be occur at the production. Checking the contract seal sample with contract comments & style file, in order to match the correct constructions according to comments & style file. Participate to the technical meeting. Discussing all the issues which could overcome at the production according to work study layout. Prepare component measurement sheet. Has to follow sample & spech sheet. Check machine requirements of the style. (Thread type/Ticket umber/coloures/shadings/SPI) Fill the feeding check list sheet. Technical supervisor is giving instructions of the operation & complete a piece. Then MO has to complete 5 pieces. It should be checked & fill the feeding check list sheet. When there is damage in one piece, it should be corrected & write on the check list sheet regarding that issue.When there is damage than in one piece, should give instructions to correct it & MO has to complete 5 pieces again. Quality supervisor should check it until the operation is corrected until the all 5 pieces finishes. Has to follow contract seal sample & comments

  

Prepare mock up sheet & approve it. At this time should give quality instructions of mock up to MO. Check again the corrected operations which were highlighted before. Give quality checking instruction sheet to back table, mid table & end line table checkers. (Quality checking instruction sheet should sign by quality checker, QC supervisor & QC


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



 

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In-charge.) Should follow style file & contract seal sample. Give instructions of labelattaching to MO. Label should match with label chart of trim card. Should check that MO is trained for label attachment (the trained one’s should have a purple colour band on their scarf) First 10 garments of the line out should measure, check & fill the hourly measurement audit sheet. When it has damage, should give instructions to correct it to QC & MO. Send these 10 garments to wash. These garments should return with in 2 days. After receiving, the wash garments should measure & check the quality. It should be fill the hourly measurement sheet for wash garments. First 50 garment should be send to bulk wash in addition of 10 garments Mainly considering the workman ship.

Daily rutting: 

 

 

Every morning, should check the absenteeism of the line & operators who has been replaced instead of absentees. Should be checked the quality of the operations. Every morning machine requirement of the operations should be checked. Do the SPC (Statistic Process Control) 1. Attribute – (Consider the workman ship.) Do 8 times per day (with in 8 hours). Consider back area, front area & assemble of the garment. Check 40% of the line out per hour. Damages should be between 5% - 0% When damages are over 5%, has to take an action. 2. Variable – (Consider the measurements.) Do for critical areas of the garment (low hip, front rise, back rise) Do it for 3 garments per hour & 4 times per day. Garments to be checked, should not be in same sizes.

Monitor the end line & mid line hourly. End line & mid line sheet is filled by the QC & it should be checked. Measure & check 10 garments per day hourly (random selection) Fill the hourly measurement audit sheet & end line garment review sheet. Review the sheet & when it has been damaged, aware the QC & MO regarding that and correct it.


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Send 6 above mentioned garments to wash (GAP). Measuregarments at after wash& after iron. Check them at after measure by the finishing department. Fill the hourly measurement audit sheet also for washed garments. (Measuring’s should be done according to the shrinkage) When there is measurement problem, inform to the quality in charge. When there are colour shades of the garment, it should be informed to the QC in charge & check and get the approval for those colour shades. Normally has approval for colour shades for side to side markers. Hang white band of loop to colour shades before it sent to wash. Send QC to finishing Div. 3 times per day to check the quality of washed garments. Do random checking in the line. When it`s need needle holes (special requirements), should put the needle change report. Check whether those needles are changed according to the report (changing times) When it has button attach on the garment, has to follow bingo card by the MO (for clear buttons) Bingo card should be checked that the MO is following up it. At the colour changes, it should send 10 garments for wash & measure it. Hang green band on the loop for dead damages. Maintain the uneven foundation of the garments (waist band).

KPI`S   

Lot audit passing (workman ship) Maintain 97% FPY (First Pass Yield) Should have 95% pass rate of before wash audit (10 pieces from a bin is auditing)


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Job Roll of Quality Checker

Line feeding:   

Get quality instructions from the line supervisor. Fill the QC Instruction Sheet & it should be approved by the quality in charge. Check quality of the operations, until garments are received to the table. End line table QC should hang on a sample in front of the table with the 1 st garment review sheet which approved by the quality supervisor & quality in charge

Daily rutting:       

Follow the QC instructions, which gave by the quality supervisor. When identify a damage mark it & return to the line for correct it. When damage has continuously, inform to the quality supervisor. Fill the mid line/ end line sheet hourly. Visit to finishing department& check wash garments. Correct the returned garments which are coming from the finishing & submit them back. Bin audit should be passed.


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Job Roll of Quality In charge

Line Feeding:     

Participate to PP meeting. Give quality requirements of the garment. Participate to technical meeting. Discussing quality issues can occur at production. Check the contract seal sample with contract comments & review it. Prepare 1st garment review sheet. Give quality instructions to quality supervisors at the line feeding.

Daily rutting:            

Maintain the LTO of quality team.( Labour Turn Over) Maintain the absenteeism of quality team. Participate to meeting of Plant Manager at 9.00 A.M. Participate to meeting of Factory Manager at 9.30 A.M. Follow up that production pullouts/rack samples are given by the supervisors correctly. Follow up that 1st 10 & 1st 50 garments are received from wash& checked them by supervisors. Check the mails & give instructions according to updated mails. Follow the quality level of the plant by giving solutions with involve to the problem. Check that the mid line/end line sheets & SPC is maintaining correctly. Handle the cutting issues. Handle shading issues. Get approval for printings if necessary. Keep return garments from finishing at low level.

KPI`S     

FPY should be at 97% of the plant (First Pass Yield) Before wash pass rate of the plant should be 90% Plant lot audit pass rate 97% Final pass rate of the shipment should be 97% Maintain SPC of the plant in 5%


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FINISHING Washing receiving – wash receive supervisor. (process map is in page 36)

1. Check the packing list & tag on the bag. 2. Unloading - 3 helpers & 1 leader  Leader should check the packing list & tag on the bag. 3. Delivery the garments to store. 4. Store on racks. 5. Selecting the garments for audit. 6. Auditing – 3 auditors  First 50 auditing for new styles.  Pass – Release to finishing.  Fail – Calling for the meeting, person who are related. Resend the garments to prepare damages.  Bulk auditing.  Pass – Release to finishing.  Fail – Inform to the relevant QC supervisor of the sewing floor. Re-auditing after prepare the damages.  Fill the 1st 50 analyzing report. 7. Bring to size break. 8. Size breaking according to PO –

4 helpers

Finishing & Poly bag Packing–2 finishing in charges/8 line leaders (process map is in page 35)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.

Bringing the garments from wash receive. Cutting loops. Removing dust in pocket bags.1 helper. Attaching buttons – 3 M/O. Thread trimming – 2 helpers. Wash quality checking (WQC) – 3 Q.C Sucker – 1 helper. Ironing – 3 helpers. Topper – 1helper. Final quality checking – 3 helpers. Measuring- 1 helper. Quality auditing. –1auditor. Damage repairing – 1 M/O.

2 helpers.

Folding method(5 helpers)  Match book & price ticket attaching.(joker tag)


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Dust removing (if necessary) Folding. Leg sticker attaching. Pre pack separating. Insert to poly bag. Paste the pre pack sticker & doing CNI (Conformity Necessary Information).

Hanging method (5 helpers)           

Remove the hanger. Price ticket attaching. Put the hanger with punch & remove dust (if necessary) Put the size tag. Hang on the rail. Get the garment from rail. Hang on the bar. Put the poly bag. Hang the garment on rail. Paste the bar cord stickers. Hang on the railings to deliver the ware house.

Carton process In charge 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Bring the garments from line out.- 2 helpers Doing CNI (Conformity Necessary Information).- 3 helpers Deliver to needle detector. Garment passes through the detector. 2 helpers Get the garment from the detector. Deliver to the size break. Separating to sizes. 5 helpers for flat & 1 for hangers. Store in size wise. Carton packing i. Make carton for pack. ii. Write the necessary information on the carton. iii. Packing the garments 7 helpers a. Pack folded garments in carton (pre pack & bulk). b. Pack garments with hangers in carton. iv. Close the carton


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Doing FA (Factory Audit) 2 auditors (process map is in page 37)

1. 2. 3. 4.

Select the cartons according to AQL. Check shipping mark (Address/PO/Qty/carton no/of no) Doing CNI for the carton. Doing random CNI for hangers according to packing list.

WARE HOUSE Incharge Carton 1. Bring the cartons to ware house. 2. Doing EDI (Electronic Data Interchange) on the carton. 3. Mark the quantity & carton number on the carton.

CIF (Central Inspection Facility) 1. 2. 3. 4.

Attach the PO sheet with packing list & offer to the CIF. Select the cartons for CIF. Send the selected cartons for CIF. CIF auditing  Pass- release to loading.  Fail – recheck & give again to CIF. 5. Do the packing at CIF room.

Loading Cartons 1. Delivery the cartons to loading bay. 2. Check the carton number & of number by security officer at the loading. 3. Doing random checking (in side of the carton) 4. Loading to container. Hangers 1. Doing loading CNI.  Should have 40 garments on a rail. 2. Delivery to loading bay. 3. Counting by the security officer at the loading. 4. Loading to container.


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System chart process map

WASH RECEIVE


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FINISHING/ POLY BAG


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FINISHING / CARTON PAKING


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FACTORY AUDIT


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W A R E H O U S E / L O A D I N G


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garment

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