Naturals in Cosmetics & Personal Care Products Cosmet Cosmetics ics:: these these are articl articles es (soli (solids, ds, semi-s semi-soli olids, ds, liquid liquids, s, powder powders) s) intend intended ed to be rubbed rubbed (e.g., (e.g., toothp toothpast aste, e, facial facials, s, fairne fairness ss creams creams), ), sprink sprinkled led (e.g. (e.g. talc, talc, eye shadow) shadow) or spraye sprayed d (e.g. (e.g. perfum perfumes, es, deodorant), introduced in to (e.g. contact lenses, kajal) or otherwise applied to the human body for clea cleans nsin ing g (e.g. (e.g. face face wash wash,, body body wash wash), ), beaut beautif ifyi ying ng (lip (lipst stic icks ks,, nail nail polis polishe hes) s) and and prom promot otio ion n of attractiveness or altering the appearance. Natural Ingredients: any plant (e.g. alove vera, neem) or minerals (e.g. titanium oxide, zinc oxide) directly coming from the agriculture production or from physical methods like extraction, percolation, decoction etc. Classification of Naturals on the Basis of Source: 1. Her Herbal bal sourc ourcee 2. Mine Minera rals ls sour source ce 3. Ani Animal mal sour source ce Herbal source or botanicals plays a major role in the today’s world of cosmetics. As the people becoming more aware towards their health, considering that all the natural or natural preparations or herbs containing preparations are safer than the synthetic or organic preparations. 1. Herbal Herbal source source:: thes thesee are are used used as I) Active ingredient II) Excepient. i) Herb Herbss as act activ ivee ingr ingred edie ient nt in: in: a) Hair Hair car caree prod produc ucts ts •
Shampoo: Soapnuts, Shikakai, Caryocar glabrum, Hibiscus, Heena.
•
Anti dandruff Shampoos e.g. Neem, Ambla, Vernonia missurica, Tulsi.
•
Hair growth & thickners: Amla, Vanilla griffithii, Canarim oleosum, Seasame seed oil.
b) Skin care products. •
Facial/face wash: Rose water, Red sandal wood, Cone flower.
•
Moisturizer: Alove vera, Honey, Sea Same Seed Oil
•
Skin acne: Apricot Oil, Soya Bean Oil, Sea Same Oil, Walnut, Cone Flower.
•
Sun cream: Almond Oil, Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Peanut Oil.
•
Astringents: Honey, Pomegranate
•
Fairness creams: Turmeric, Sandalwood Paste, Lotus, Saffron Paste.
•
Oral care products: Anise, Cinnamon, Myrrh, Neem,Holy Basil.
•
Anti aging preparations: Albizzia Lebbeck, Butea Superb, Emblica Officinalis,Rice Bran.
II) Naturals as excepients: •
Perfumes: Essential Oil, Anise Oil, Peppermint, Rose Oil, Lemon Grass Oil.
•
Viscosity enhancers: Bees Wax, Paraffin.
•
Body building: Agar, Gum Acacia.
•
Thickeners: Coconut, Carica Papaya, Caminaria Digitata, Macrocryptis Pyrifera.
•
Preservatives: Clove Oil, Coriander Oil.
•
Gums: Gum tree, Gum Acacia.
•
Colorants: Heena, Rhubarb, Safflower.
2. Minerals: They are widely used in cosmetics for their pearliness, coloring and bulk forming
properties.
3. Miner Mineral alss with with the their ir use: use: i. Lipstick Pearlescence: Titniym Oxide, Mica, Focus Algin, Bromine Mannite, Iron Oxide. ii. Antiperspirants: Aluminum Chloride, Aluminium Chloralhydrate. 4. Animal source: it includes milk, egg, placenta, hormones and bonepowder. i. Milk: Mainly provide milk lipids, mik proteins, casin, ii. Placenta: The extracts from it are useful in skin softening effect mainly contains blood proteins,
various enzymes etc. iii. Egg: It is excellent moisturizer, good vehicle, and a good absorption property too. it is mainly
used in face creams, hair lotions and hair dressings.
Personal Care Products There is a huge range of such products, they mainly includes i.
Bath products
ii.
Eye cosmetics
iii.
Hair ca care pr products
iv.
Hair co colorants
v.
Lipsticks
vi.
Nail care products
vii. viii.
Perfumes Shaving pr products
ix.
Skin care products
x.
Tooth paste
Stability Problems with regard to Herbal Preparation. 1. Adul Adulter terati ation on
Types of adulteration / substitution of herbal preparation
Substitution with inferior commercial verities
Adulteration by artificial manufactured substitutes
Substitution by exhaust drugs
Substitution by superficially similar but cheaper na tural substances
Adulteration by addition of worthless heavy material
Addition of synthetic principles
Usage of vegetative principles from same plant
2. Deterioration due to environmental factors:
There are many intrinsic factors which govern the growth and medicinal quality of herbs. This is largely due to the change in their chemical constitution which often leads to change in their bioactivity. So many factors relating to climate, altitude, rainfall, and other conditions responsible for growth of plant with affected quality of herbal ingredients present in a particular species even if it is in a same country. Due to these inherent variations, standardization will help control the quality. The major environmental factors are: (A)Primary factors
Light
Moisture/ Humidity
Airic oxidation
(B)Secondary Factors
Bacteria and molds
Mites and nematode worms
Insects and moths
Coleopteran and beetles
Standardization of Herbal Preparation.
In order to produce quality products, it is essential that standardization and validation of botanical materials and process is done and documented. It is an exceedingly complicated job to standardize thousands of plant extracts with respect to their medicinal value and constituents. The quality in yester. years was based on physical aspects of the plant material such as identification, colour, odour, size, type, age, etc. Today, there is an additional requirement, of knowing the exact chemical composition of the botanical raw material, along with the different physical tests. Standardization of natural products is a complex task due to their heterogeneous composition, which is in the form of w of whole plant, parts or extracts obtained there of. To ensure reproducible quality of herbal products, proper control of starting material is utmost essential. Factors influencing Quality of Botanicals • •
Authentication of Name and Source of the herb Adulteration
•
Phytochemical variation due to environmental factors.
•
Inadequate knowledge of Active Principles.
• •
Lack of Reference Standards. Inadequate number of Official Monographs.
These factors are discussed below. Authentication of Name and Source of the herb: Majority of the herbs in India come from wild sources and are collected by poor, illiterate tribals and local people, without any attention to botanical identification and authentication. Thus, the material supplied is mostly adulterated, either intentionally or unintentionally. Each crude drug has different names in vernacular vernacular languages and local trade occurs in these vernacular vernacular names only. Botanical/Lat Botanical/Latin in names are rarely used for these purposes. Adulteration : The likelihood of adulteration of raw botanical material is very high. It could be unintentional as there are many crude drugs which when fully dried look morphologically very similar to each other. On the other hand, it could be deliberate, for example, unwanted foreign organic and inorganic material may be added to increase weight. In such circumstances, it becomes mandatory to resort to complete manual cleaning of raw material prior to processing.
Phytochemial variations due to environmental factors : There are many intrinsic factors which govern the growth and medicinal quality of herbs. This is largely due to the change in their chemical constitution which often leads to change in their bioactivity. Due to these inherent variations, standardization will help control the quality. The major environmental factors are : •
Seasonal Changes
•
Geographical variations
•
Age of the plant at the time of the harvest
•
Genetic factors (ploidy and variety)
•
Edaphic factors (soil pH, soil composition, macro and micro- nutrients). Inadequate knowledge of Active Principles : Each herb is a complex mixture of hundreds organic
compounds containing different types of secondary metabolites and mostly the active principle is not Identified. Lack of Reference Standards: Reference standards are required at two stages: (1) Crude
drug reference standard
(2) Active
principle
Authentic reference standards, both for crude d rug as well as for active principles not easy to obtain for all the drugs, but Mill many Herbal Research Companies \ Laboratories are making efforts to develop .1 library of standards of the phytochemical. Inadequate Number of Official Monograph: Monograph: There are hardly any pharmacopoeia pharmacopoeia available to the natural product scientist foi guidance. Indian Herbal Pharmacopoeia The Indian Pharmacopoeia, 4th edition, 19%, Vol I and II, addendum 2003, has analytie-' monographs on very few medicinal plant. Though Ayurvedic Pharmacopoeia of Indi. (Vol. 1-3) covers about 240 medicinal plant, but the parameters are not adequate for export purposes. Even though the problems encountered in the standardization of crude drugs are numerous, efforts are on for obtaining obtaining quality quality products by different different methods standardizatio standardization. n. Some them are described below. 1.
Development of in-house Crude Drug References Standards: For the purpose of identification
of the crude drugs, it is best to possess the authentic reference standard that particular crude drug. This
can be done by generating in-house reference standard for crude drugs. Fresh plants can be collected, from right geographical locations, in the right season, at the right age. Its taxonomic identity' may be verified, followed by preparation of herbarium of herbarium sheets and documenting the relevant collection details. Then they should be carefully collected, dried under controlled conditions and stored appropriately so as to serve as reference standards.
TLC Finger Printing: Many of the crude drugs have look-alikes and it becomes
2.
diffic difficult ult to differ different entiat iate e the genuine genuine ones ones from from the fake fake drugs drugs after after they they are powdered. This then necessitates the application of T hin hin layer Chromatography (TLC). TLC is one of the easiest and cheapest tools available for phytochemical anal analys ysis is and and is the the meth method od of choi choice ce for for crud crude e drug drug auth authen enti tica cati tion on.. The The TLC TLC fingerprint of the sample under test is compared with the TLC finger print of the crude crude drug drug refer referenc ence e standar standard. d. Thus, Thus, avail availabi abilit lity y of the crude crude drug drug refer referenc ence e standard becomes very crucial for Quality Control. Quantific Quantification ation of Markers/A Markers/Activ ctives es:: Marker Markers s are compou compounds nds unique unique to the
3.
plant in question and are preferably present in 'detectable amounts' and can be easily isolated. A marker compound can be quantified and the quantification can be carried out by High Performance, Thin Layer Chromatography HPTLC is well suit su ited ed to obta obtain in a deta detail iled ed fing finger erpr prin intt of herb herbal al extr extrac actt or prod produc uct. t. Such Such a finger fingerpri print nt compri comprise se of scanni scanning ng in UV light light,, fluore fluoresce scence nce and photog photograp raphic hic images in ultraviolet light (254 nm and 366 nm) and occasionally in visible light afte afterr
deri deriv vatiz atizat atio ion. n.
For For
plan plantts
wher here
acti active ves/ s/
marke arkers rs
aiv aiv
not not
kno known, wn,
phytoc phytochem hemica icall profil profiling ing of the catego category ry compou compounds nds can be carri carried ed out Plant Plants s contain different categories of molecules, e.g., alkaloids, terpenoids, glycosides, saponins, flavonoids, tannins, etc,. For the quantification of these categories of compounds the gravimetric method can be adopted tor crude drugs. 4. Residual Analysis: Analysis: One of the very important aspects of standardization is to ensure the absence of objectionable amounts of pesticide residues, heavy metal residues, organic solvent residues, mycotoxin residues and bioburden.
5. Biological Standardization Methods: Methods: A bioassay called Brine Shrimp Lethality Bioassay is Bioassay is being used as a routine biological quality control tool along with finger printing. Regulatory aspects: all cosmetic related products must have registration/approval certificate for sale. Regulation and regulatory requirements varies from country to country. Each countries have their own regula regulator tory y agency agency that that contro controls ls the standa standards rds and qualit quality y of the cosmet cosmetics ics.. In the United United states states,, regulating body is Food and Drug Administration, cosmetic products and their ingredients are not subject to FDA regulation prior to their release in to the market. FDA comes in to play when found any violation in Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. In India, there is Drug and Cosmetic Act 1945 to regulate the essential aspects regarding safety of cosmetic products.
