Raglan Sleeve Drafting (http://www.pattern-making.com/raglan-sleeve-dress8gored-skirt/
Raglan Sleeve Dress & 8-Gored Skirt 1) Trace front and and back dress foundation foundation to to waistline waistline only t!en ad"ust ad"ust ar#!ole side sea#s and waist darts as s!own as dotted lines$ %d"ust eac! side of t!e dress sleeve foundation to corresond wit! t!e ad"ust#ent of t!e bodies ar#!ole and side sea#s$ ') draft raglan ar#!ole sea# lines slig!tly curved$ or side dart draw slas! line t!en slas! and sread as described for t!e "u#er dress*$ Draw curved+lines on eac! side of sleeve cas s!own by dotted lines$
') Slas! eac! eac! side of sleeve sleeve and sread 1-1+'* at underar#$ underar#$ ,Sread ,Sread at at underar# #ust always eual twice t!e a#ount t!e ar#!ole was lowered. t!en connect at eac! side to elbow line$ Trace raglan section and G t!en aly t!e# to to of sleeve ca / and D$ 1* aart$ 0) /ontinue s!oulder dark lines 1 -1+'* to a oint as s!own by dotted lines and sleeves$ ower t!e neck '* at center front$ %dd 1+'* to center front for front closing overla$ Draft front facing 0* wide as s!own by dotted lines$ %dd sea#s and #ake corresonding notc!es$ T!is style features side and waist darts in bodice 2 slig!tly deeened ar#!ole s!oulder dart in sleeve$
T!e 8 gored skirt !as a swee of over 3 yards and e4tra ease allowance around !i$ or 5bouffant6 wear skirt !as enoug! fullness around !i and swee at lower edge to be worn over a stiffened crinoline etticoat$
') Slas! eac! eac! side of sleeve sleeve and sread 1-1+'* at underar#$ underar#$ ,Sread ,Sread at at underar# #ust always eual twice t!e a#ount t!e ar#!ole was lowered. t!en connect at eac! side to elbow line$ Trace raglan section and G t!en aly t!e# to to of sleeve ca / and D$ 1* aart$ 0) /ontinue s!oulder dark lines 1 -1+'* to a oint as s!own by dotted lines and sleeves$ ower t!e neck '* at center front$ %dd 1+'* to center front for front closing overla$ Draft front facing 0* wide as s!own by dotted lines$ %dd sea#s and #ake corresonding notc!es$ T!is style features side and waist darts in bodice 2 slig!tly deeened ar#!ole s!oulder dart in sleeve$
T!e 8 gored skirt !as a swee of over 3 yards and e4tra ease allowance around !i$ or 5bouffant6 wear skirt !as enoug! fullness around !i and swee at lower edge to be worn over a stiffened crinoline etticoat$
79 T DR%T S:;RT <)Trace !i section of t!e dress foundation t!en curve !i and waist line u = toward t!e side and reduce waist line of inc! at eac! side sea#s as s!own by dotted lines >) Divide !i section into 0 arts by cutting along dart lines$ ?ark section % to D$ @) /ontinue straig!t lines down below !i sections to reuired lengt! t!en curve botto# lines arallel to !i lines$ 8 ) or addition swee %dd about '-1+' at botto# of eac! sea#$ To not!ing 3* below waistline$
http://www.pattern-making.com/d .pattern-making.com/dress-bodice-raglanress-bodice-raglan79 T DR%T A%TTBRC( http://www sleeve/)_ sleeve/ )_ T!e drafts on t!is age were develoed by using t!e unior Aetite ,SiEe @. or t!e tea#6s ,SiEe 1'. Dress Fodice oundation$
Dress Fodice 1) Trace Dress Fodice ront and Fack t!en s!ift s!oulder sea# slig!tly forward by cutting off 1+'H fro# front at s!oulder and "oining it to back at s!oulder as indicated eli#inating t!e dart or ease at back s!oulder sea#$ ' and 3) Draft raglan ar#!ole sea# lines on front and back t!en draw scooed neckline$ ?ark sections % F / D$ or double renc! side darts draw arallel diagonal lines ,about 1-1+0* aart. starting fro# oints of side and waist darts to side sea#$ ?ark sections B and t!en slas! along t!e diagonal dart lines and sread closing u side and waist darts as s!own in diagra# 3$
0 and < '-Aiece S!ort Sleeve Ising t!e Dress Sleeve oundation draft t!e S!ort Sleeve according to t!e directions given on revious age diagra# 3$ > and @) To er#it t!e ar# to raise #ore co#fortably lengt!en t!e to of underar# sea#s of sleeve as follows Draw curved slas! lines on eac! side of t!e ca as indicated$ ?ark sections G 7 ; t!en slas! on dotted lines and sread at underar# sea#s as s!own in diagra# @$ Draw slig!tly curved underar# sea#s fro# ca to botto# of sleeve
8 and J 2 Raglan Sleeve /ut away t!e raglan sections F and / of front and back and aly to to of sleeve ca ,sections G and ;. as s!own in diagra# 8 t!en curve t!e corners of eac! side of t!e ca as s!own in diagra# J$ To co#lete t!e attern add sea#s and #ake corresonding notc!es
Drafting Raglan Sleeves (http://www.pattern-making.com/category/patterndrafting/drafting-sleeve-patterns/page/2/)
T!e following diagra#s s!ow !ow to draft t!e raglan sleeve using t!e dress foundation attern as a guide$
1) Trace front and back to waistline only lacing attern ieces s!oulder to s!oulder being 1+0H longer s!ould be reduced 1+0H as s!own by dotted line$ % to F 2 Buals 1+3 of front ar#!ole % to / 2 Buals 1+' of back ar#!ole D KK ?ark oint D at s!oulder notc! of sleeve ca$ ') B to F 2 /onnect KK /enter between B-F B to / 2 /onnect G KK /enter between B-/ 7 to 2 Buals widt! of sleeve at neckline #aking B to 7 twice t!e widt! of B to as follows
B to 7 2 1* t!en draw line fro# 7 to B to 2 1+'H t!en draw line fro# to G /urve t!e line at oints and F in front at oints G and / in back in diagra# 3$ 3) Trace s!oulder section fro# 7 to F to % to / to to 7 t!en cut out and
') aly to to of sle eve ca overlaing oint % 1+'H beyond oint D and !aving oints F and / at even distances fro# sleeve as illustrated$ Draw curved lines on sleeve fro# : to D and to D$ 0) Slas! sleeve fro# : to D and to D t!en sread !aving t!e sleeve ca touc! t!e s!oulder section at oints F and /$ T!is will lengt!en t!e underar# sea# of sleeve about 1-1+'*$ or gat!ers at neck slas! front fro# neck to dart t!en close u front dart to allow for gat!ers at neck as s!own in diagra# <$ <) %llow sea#s on all edges but center front and back$ ?ake corresonding notc!es at ar#!oles and sleeve$ T!ere s!ould be at least 1+'H ease allowance in t!e sleeve between t!e notc!es$ T!e raglan sleeve !as t!e sa#e fitting value as t!e set-in sleeve because t!e lower art of t!e sleeve and ar#!ole are about t!e sa#e in construction$
;t is called a raglan sleeve because t!e s!oulder section and sleeve are in one art wit! t!e ar#!ole sea#s running towards t!e neck in front and back$
Drafting Raglan Sleeves STLB 1 1) Ise t!e raglan sleeve foundation attern as a guide$ or gat!ers at s!oulder draw a slas! line on front fro# s!oulder to dart t!en #ark sections % and F$ Slas! t!en close u front dart and sread for gat!ers as s!own in diagra# '$ or s!oulder dart in sleeve draw a line t!roug! center of sleeve fro# to down t!e lengt! of s!oulder t!en draw lines to sides of sleeve ca as illustrated$ ?ark sections /-D-B$ To #ake s!oulder ad attern etc$ see diagra#s to t!e rig!t$ or neck dart in back first draw new center back line by adding 1+0H at neck and reducing 1+'H at waistline as s!own by dotted line t!en #ake neck dart 1+0H wide and 3* long 1-1+'* fro# center back as s!own in diagra# '$ ') or s!oulder dart slas! fro# to of sleeve down and across t!en sread about 3* or 0* at to$ T!e sread above B will allow t!e s!oulder to e4tend slig!tly$
3) %llow sea#s and #ake corresonding in front and sleeve to indicate t!e osition for gat!ers in front$ T!e raglan sleeve wit! s!oulder dart gives t!e gar#ent a #ore tailored aearance and better fit over t!e ar# at s!oulder$
STLB '
;llustration s!ows raglan sleeve and yoke in one section$ 1) Ise t!e raglan front back and sleeve foundation attern as a guide$ Draft t!e yoke on front and back as follows
% to F 2 Buals '+3 of front ar#!ole / to D 2 on sleeve euals % to F on front B to 2 Buals '+3 of back ar#!ole G to 7 2 on sleeve euals B to on back Draw yoke lines on front and back ')/ut away yoke sections fro# front and back and aly to sleeve at corresonding ositions$ or gat!ers in front draw slas! line as illustrated t!en slas! and sread as s!own in diagra# 3$ 3)%llow sea#s and #ake corresonding notc!es$ ?ark grain line arrow in yoke and sleeve arallel to center back$ Draft cuff 1-1+'* wide at lower edge of sleeve$
Raglan Sleeve Cap Height Alteration Tutorial If a raglan sleeve shows diagonal wrinkles it needs more cap height. You can alter the pattern and add the amount you need to fill up this shortage of length which causes the diagonal wrinkles. To measure how much sleeve cap height you need to add!see diagonal sleeve wrinkles" undo the #asting from the underarm sleeve and move the sleeve upwards with one hand ! higher at armpit" until you notice that the diagonal wrinkles are gone. $easure the amount you moved the sleeve upwards from the stitch line at armpit towards the stitch line at sleeve underarm. $ary %eth sent me a picture of the sleeve pattern she used
I traced the pattern picture to use as an e&le for the alteration and marked the seam allowances
'raw a line from the notch at the front and #ack sleeve arm scye towards the shoulder stitch line notch which indicates the end of the shoulder. Removed the seam allowances at the upper part of the sleeve pattern .
Slash the line from the shoulder notch towards the notch at arm scye #ack and front and add the amount you need
You can see how the added length for the sleeve cap height differs from the original used pattern. The red line shows the new altered raglan sleeve pattern the #lue line is the original one. The straight of grain needs to #e lenghtened for the upper part as well as adding the seam allowances #ack on.
Aatterns
As with all patterns drafted with PatternMaker macros, you have to remember that they are drafted according to your own measurements. So they may not look like the patterns you have been used to. Most significantly the direction of the front shoulder very much depends on the ratio of your front and back heights. If you have a prominent bust, your front shoulder may be steeper than you have seen in the patterns drafted according to standard measurements.
Here you have the patterns of three real ladies. here are the patterns of the basic bodice with normal sleeves and with raglan sleeves drafted on top of one another. !ou can see how different the patterns look. Lady A has a very steep front shoulder which also makes her raglan sleeve head very narrow at front. Lady C has a completely different figure, her front shoulder is more or less hori"ontal #it will slope downwards when the bust dart is sewn$ and her raglan front sleeve head is much wider.
In the raglan sleeve design there has been added space at armpit to give the arm more space to move. hat%s why the raglan sleeve is wider at the armpit than the normal sleeve. he patterns of Lady B look more like the raglan patterns you have seen but the back sleeve is wider than the front sleeve. &ook at the above picture where the raglan sleeve has been drafted on top of the normal sleeve to verify that the sleeves are identical, only the armpit of the raglan sleeve has been lowered and made wider. As always, if you have sewn a muslin with the patterns of the normal basic bodice and your measurements and if it fits, you can be sure that all patterns drafted with the
PatternMaker macros with those measurements, fit. If you need to, please about sewing a #uslin using the patterns of the basic bodice.
read #ore
%ltering t!e design wit! !el of ot!er Aattern?aker #acros
If you want to alter the design of a raglan garment, use other PatternMaker macros as a guide. &et%s presume you want to draft patterns for a 'acket with a shawl collar and raglan sleeves. In the raglan 'acket macro there is not an option for shawl collar but in the suer "acket #acro there is. (un the macros on top of each other. race and add the shawl collar to the raglan 'acket shell and sleeve as in the drawing above. Please be sure to use the same ease in both macros. his way you can combine any two macros. %ltering t!e s!oulder s!ae
If there is too much room in the raglan sleeve shoulders even if you have not chosen the shoulder paddings option, try the garment on and pin the desired shoulder shape. hen re)sew the shoulder seam.
Drafting Bra Pattern
Bra Pattern-Style 2- C-CUP
*$ +sing the revised dress foundation, draft front and back of bra as shown in style *, diagrams * to , but make the changes in drafting the front of bra as follows- Make length of upper front, */0 of center front and side lengths1 then separate as shown in diagram 2. 2$ 3or e4tra length over the bust, add *25 to each front section at breast point, to nothing at front and side edges as shown by dotted lines. /$ 3or closer fit at lower part of front, make dart *0 wider 6*20 at each side of dart7 as shown by dotted lines. and 8$ 3or lower front sections, draw circular lines as indicated. Mark sections 9):) 3);1 then separate < and from front, and combine section 9 and : as shown in diagram 8. 3or closer fit at upper edge of front, make reduction in 2 places as indicated. Mark sections H)I)=1 then close up sections as shown in diagram 8. 9raw slightly curved lines at inner edges of sections 3 and ; as shown by dotted lines in diagram 8. >$ o complete pattern, add seams and make corresponding notches.
*$ +sing the revised dress foundation, draft front and back of bra as shown in style *, diagram * to , but make changes in drafting the bra front as follows- Make length of upper front, */0 of center front and side lengths1 then draw vertical lines, /5 from center front and side edges as shown by dotted lines. 2$ Separate the upper and lower front as indicated1 then, for *0 e4tra length over the bust, add *25 to each section at breast point to nothing at front and side. /$ 3or closer fit at lower part of front, make dart *0 wider 6*20 at each side of the dart7 as shown by dotted lines. 3or 2)piece upper front, draw dividing line, from breast point at top1 then separate as shown in diagram . and 8$ 3or closer fit at upper edge of front, make reduction in 2 places as indicated. Mark sections 9):)3);1 then close up sections 9 and :, and 3 and ; as shown in diagram 8. 3or lower front sections, draw circular lines as indicated. Mark sections H) I)=)?1 then separate as shown in diagram 8. 9raw slightly curved lines at inner edges of sections H and I as shown by dotted lines in diagram 8. >$ o complete pattern, add seams and make matching notches.
Draft of the Bra Pattern
Bra Pattern Style 1-C-CUP
* and 2 +sing the revised dress foundation to waist line only, close up the side dart in front1 then reduce width of front at side seam by dotted lines in diagram 2. /$ (educe width of back at side seam1 then draft bra front and back as shown by dotted lines. Shift side seam, *)*20 forward, and mark sections A)<)@1 then combine them as shown in diagram . Make shoulder straps *25 wide.
Draft front band as indicated and mark sections 9 and :1 then, for closer fit at lower part of front and band, make waist dart, *0 wider 6*20 on each side of dart7 as shown by dotted lines. Separate the band from front1
then combine section 9 and : as shown in diagram 8. 6riangular inset at side of band may be made of elastic, to revive the lower edge stain, when breathing7. =oin front and back shoulder straps, adding 20 for ad'ustment1 then make strap double, as shown in diagram 8. 8 3or 2)piece front, draw seam line across, from center of side seam to the middle of center front line1 then separate as shown in diagram >.
> and 3or *0 e4tra length over the bust, add *25 to each front section at breast point, to nothing at front and side edges as shown by dotted lines. 3or closer fit at upper edge of front, make reduction in 2 places as indicated. Mark sections 3);)H)I)=1 then close up the upper and lower front sections as shown in diagram . B o complete pattern, add seams and make matching notches.
H! " AD#US" AD#US" $C-CUP% $C- CUP% B&A PA PA""'&() " A( $A%) $A%) $B% or $D-CUP% 3or the <)@+P <(A, shorten back, *25 at side seam 6*0 at point A and *C at point @, to nothing at points < and 971 then make front sections, *25 shorter 6*0 at each seam7 between points :)3 and ;)H as shown by dotted lines. 3or the A)@+P <(A, <(A, shorten back and front sections, twice the amount described above f or the <)@+P <(A. 3or the figure with prominent bust, 6usually reDuired the 9)@+P <(A7, lengthen instead shorten, the same amount and in the same area, as described above for the <)@+P <(A.
Drafting he !"t-in #ori$ontally-%leated &leeve
!http://www http://www.ikatbag.c .ikatbag.com/2'(/'/drafting-c om/2'(/'/drafting-c"t-in-hori$ontally-pleated. "t-in-hori$ontally-pleated.html html )
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This sleeve has a real name. I(m sure of it. )nfortunately I don(t know it. If you do please say so in the comments so we !i.e. me" can all learn okay* Thanks+
)ntil then however I(m ,ust going to call it the cut-in horiontally pleated sleeve.
So... #ack to drafting this sleeve with the very catchy name.
/irst you need your #asic sleeve #lock. This would #e a sleeve 0pattern0 that •
fits a particular person !in this case 1ate"
does not have e&cess ease. In other words if cut out in fa#ric and sewn into an actual sleeve it would #e like a close-fitting shirt sleeve. The length of the sleeve is not defining in a sleeve #lock - it(s ,ust the shape of the sleeve cap that counts #ecause from the armpit downwards you can lengthen shorten flare or taper it without affecting the fit at the sleeve cap. •
has a distinct front and #ack section. I have not seen many commercial sleeve patterns #ut I have heard that they are often completely symmetrical front-and-#ack. 2ere they sleeve #locks this would #e paticularly appalling. However #y the time a sleeve pattern gets into your hands from a pattern packet it is no longer a sleeve block - it has #een modified adapted and had ease added to make it a sleeve pattern. And puff sleeve patterns especially which are verita#le ease-fests are so voluminous compared to their original sleeve #locks that I could see why may#e ,ust may#e some people might tolerate them #eing front-and-#ack symmetrical. To me though it still feels like the e3uivalent of sewing a pair of pants that have the same pattern for the front !no #uttocks" and #ack !with #uttocks" simply #ecause it(s a loose design. 4o. 5ust no. •
Commercial sleeve pattern !symmetrical front-and-#ack" vs. drafted sleeve #lock6sloper
So anyway this is 1ate(s sleeve #lock. 2e(re going to #e modifiying it so it will need to #e redrawn a few times as we change it.
%egin #y drawing one vertical line on paper. This is the center line of the sleeve.
Trace the sleeve cap portion !that(s the rounded mountain thing" and a #it of the side seams. 7ut away the original sleeve #lock - we(ll #e working with our trace for the ne&t few steps.
2e(re going to do adapt it in two ways. The first is in direct response to something we(ve done to the #odice.
8et me refresh your memory #y repeating a photo from the previous post in which we drafted the #odice with this cut-in armscye.
Remem#er how we shifted that shoulder strap a#out 9 96:0 towards the neck to make a new false shoulder point*
That 9 96:0 has to #e compensated for #y e&tending the sleeve cap to meet that new shoulder point. 2e(re going to modify the sleeve cap #y that same amount. $easure 9 96:0 a#ove the center line of the sleeve cap
and draw in the top-of-the-sleeve-cap !in #lue". Remem#er as you sketch it in to make the front different from the #ack - curvier deeper. Scratch out the old sleeve cap.
Incidentally if instead of ,ust that 9 96:0 you had cut in the armscye all the way to the neck and modified the sleeve accordingly with appropriate shaping on #oth pieces !the #odice armscye and the sleeve cap" you(d get a raglan sleeve. See how the principle works* %ut I digress. And anyway that(s modification ;9 finished- this is your new sleeve cap<
I(m going to repeat stuff from the previous post now ,ust so we(re #oth on the same page. Here(s what I mean #y 0cut-in0 when I refer to this sleeve. In the photo #elow 1ate(s shoulder point is indicated #y the enormous #lue arrow. If this were a normal set-in sleeve the armscye would pass over that point. In other words the seam where the pink sleeve ,oins the #lue shoulder strap would pass over that shoulder point. In a cut-in sleeve however the armscye has #een shifted towards the neck so that the sleeve cap covers more of the shoulder and the strap su#se3uently is less likely to slip off the wearer(s shoulder.
$odification ;= is to add pleats to the sleeve for te&ture. If you(ve drafted a puff sleeve from a #asic sleeve #lock !see our tutorial here" you(ll know that it(s as simple as widening or fanning out the sleeve cap to incorporate ease which then manifests as vertical waves when you gather that sleeve cap #ack into its original shape.
>ur pleats today are similar e&cept they(re horiontal rather than vertical. So not scary right*
The first thing to remem#er is that with puff-type sleeves all the action typically happens only in the sleeve cap.
So let(s divide the sleeve cap into half-inch sections. I managed to s3ueee in ?. @< 2hy half-inch* A< Ar#itrary. I thought the pleats would look nice if they were a#out a half-inch apart.
4e&t cut that whole sleeve out. 2e(re only interested in the sleeve cap remem#er so I didn(t #other to include any more than an inch or so #elow the sleeve cap. Set this aside.
2e(re now going to make pleats. /ind some new paper. >r old paper. >r any paper. 'raw a vertical line in the middle for the center line of the sleeve.
$ark out 96=0 marks separated #y 90 marks. The 96=0 marks will correspond to the ones on the sleeve cap you ,ust cut out. The 90 marks will #e the folds that #ecome the pleats. I made five 96=0 marks !with four 90 marks #etween them" #ecause that(s how many 96=0 marks were on the sleeve cap.
@< 2hy 90* A< Symmetry. 90 would pinch into a 96=0-deep pleat which is the same as the spacing #etween the pleats themselves. This gives nice even pleats. You could always make them deeper !i.e. use more than 90" or shallower !less than 90" if you like.
'raw horiontal lines through all the marks dividing them into 96=0 sections and 90 sections. I(ve shaded the 90 sections in red ,ust for visual effect. 2e(re going to accordion-fold the 90 sections so that they are hidden away. See that purple dashed line* 2e(ll valley-fold on that and mountain-fold on the #lue lines flanking the red shaded region.
8ike this.
Repeat for the ne&t red shaded 90 segment
and the third and fourth until all the 90 shaded regions disappear and you are left with only the 96=0 sections visi#le.
7lace the sleeve cap on your accordion-folded paper lining up the horiontal 96=0 folds.
Shift the sleeve cap sideways until its vertical center line lines up with the vertical center line of the accordion-folded paper and trace the outline of the sleeve cap onto the accordion-folded paper. You(ve ,ust introduced pleats into a regular sleeve cap. Hurrah+
4ow let(s draw the rest of the sleeve and then we can cut out our new pattern.
$easure !on the wearer" how long you want this sleeve to #e from the top of the sleeve cap to the hem of the sleeve. That will #e the distance Y. $ark it on the center line of your pattern and draw a horiontal line across Y. This is your sleeve hem. •
4ow measure around the wearer(s arm for an indication of how snug you want this hem to #e. $y sleeve ended at 1ate(s #icep so I measured around her #icep comforta#ly and marked this distance symmetrically a#out the point Y. Then I drew the purple slanty lines from the #ottom of the sleevecap to the hemline to form the side seams of the sleeve. •
Cut it all out - this is your horiontally-pleated cut-in sleeve pattern.
>pen it out !you know you want to+" - it looks like a Christmas tree+
8ast step - notch the top of the sleeve cap in two places< one e&actly at the center line to mark the center of the sleeve which should connect with the shoulder seam of the #odice. And two anywhere along the #ack half of the sleeve cap - when you reproduce this mark on your fa#ric you will know which half is the #ack and which is the front.
8ay this unfolded pattern on your fa#ric and cut around it adding seam allowances. The igag sides look unearthly #ut when you pleat your fa#ric and #aste the pleats down it will look correct<
You could pro#a#ly sew this sleeve as a single layer and have it drape and puff dramatically -if a #it untidily - #ut I chose to sta#ilie it with a lining. The lining is unpleated. It is cut using the same pattern #ut folded up !i.e. closed pleats". 2hen sewn together the drapey pleats on the outer layer will remain even and neat and not spread out and disappear. Summary< 2ith the lining the pleats are largely forte4ture since they can(t really open out. 2ithout the lining the pleats will also provide volu#e since they will spread and open out.
Bverything in this sleeve is stretchy #ecause it was made for comfort for a little girl who likes acro#atics even while #eing a princess. The outer sleeve is made from velour and the sleeve lining is ,ersey so the entire sleeve while fitted is still stretchy. And since the pleats are sta#ilied #y the sleeve lining they don(t collapse when the arm is raised or lowered.
Another happy side-effect of lining the sleeve - no icky raw edges at the seams or hem.
Here is the finished sleeve - looks puffed #ut isn(t.
And it happily coordinates with the ruffled #odice #it a#ove the corset.
ia#ility report< 1ate wore this dress for four straight days after #eing presented it. Then she took a #reak from #ecause !she e&plains" 0I want to save it. I(ll only wear it for #irthdays and Baster and Christmas and ... seasons.0
I hope Halloween counts as a 0season0 #ecause if so I(ve finished her costume D months in advance. )nheard of+
Status Sleeves, cont’d (http://www.sew2pro.com/tag/corner-pleat-sleeve/)
#ere*s an easy t"torial on drafting corner pleats for sleeves. &leeve pleats have been a fre+"ent feat"re of , tops dresses and ackets in recent years and are one of the many ways of adding detail and str"ct"re to a part of garment that had for a co"ple of decades remained overlooked.
0*m beginning to believe that "st as padded sho"lders of (18's womenwear gave the impression of power the etra width gained from these corners pleats somehow serve to enhance the stat"s of the wearer3 4nlike in the 8's tho"gh the means are more s"btle and the res"lt feminine. he pict"res show the pattern with the "nderarm seam sewn b"t the seam allowances and sleeve hem "nsewn. he drafting is very beginner-friendly: yo"*re "st adding s+"ares to the sleeve cap. he method is from Adele Margolis 5 book: ’esign !our "wn ress #atterns: a #rimer in #attern Ma$ing for %omen who li$e to Sew’.
&orner #leat Sleeves: a 'utorial Step (: Ma$e a smmetrical short-sleeve *loc$
6ake a copy of the short-sleeve block 7sloper). 70f yo" only have a longsleeve block copy to cm above the elbow and checking yo"r "pper arm meas"rement ens"re yo" have abo"t 9cm of ease aro"nd the bicep.) old at the centre and trim so the front and back of sleeve 7left and right of centre line) are symmetrical. ;es with this baby it won*t matter if yo" p"t the sleeve in back to front3
Step 2: +tend upwards
%in the sleeve block to a larger piece of paper. <tend the centre line "pwards and create a -shape. 0 raised my sleeve by cm b"t yo" can be more dramatic especially if yo"r fabric is =rmer3
Step : raw points on original cap
Draw 2 points on the original cap e+"ally apart from the centre line. 6ine are 9cm from the middle of the sleeve. >abel ? and @.
Step : +tend points to top of '
<tend the points to the top line making s"re the lines are at right angles to it and parallel to the centre line. >abel points.
Step : +tend to the side * same amount
<tend and label.
Step 0: &omplete the s1uare
!lose "p and oin to new points A and ;.
Step : Smooth out
,edraw aro"nd A and ; to make the line smoother. Bow trace aro"nd the whole o"tside area.
Step 3: 4ew outline
;o"r sleeve once yo"*ve "npinned the original now looks like this: yes an apron3
Step 5: &omplete the pattern
?dd seam allowances grainline fold instr"ctions 7that is the fo"r points to each pleat s+"are) and knotches. ?s there are no balance lines when it comes to attaching the sleeve to the bodice pin to the sho"lder seam =rst then to "nderarm sleeve. he rest sho"ld =t witho"t t"cks or gathers.
Step (6: Ma$ing up o make the sleeve from yo"r fabric fold ! to < and D to . he fold sho"ld stop at points ? and @. @aste along the armscye.
Alternativel7 ;o" may wish to fold the opposite way from the o"ter side of the sleeve towards the centre that is from < towards ! and towards D. ?nd if yo" do so then t"rn the sleeve inside o"t yo" get this interesting diagonal pleat as on the rightC. 0f yo"r fabric is on oppy side and can*t s"pport s"ch corners yo" co"ld try interfacing. ? nice addition to the bamboo shoot bodiceE
Making a Half Wrap Sleeve: like Legolas (http://www.allecatscratch.com/lotr/#atternMod/Sleeve/8alf%rap.htm)
Note: there are more details specific to Legolas sleeves over in the character section. These include both how to create the wraps from draping and some more info on making to half-wrap sleeve. The basic sleeve pattern
First lay out the sleeve pattern that you will use with the body of the garment and prepare to trace it. You could either use tracing paper (or anything you can see through) laid on top of the piece, or cut the pattern out on the cutting lines and lay it on top of paper (opened out grocery bags, whatever) and draw around it. A) Top of Sleeve ap Note, double notch designates the back of the sleeve and the single notch the front of the sleeve for all diagrams on this page. You are going to ma!e two pattern pieces copied"traced from the original sleeve pattern ## a front and a bac!. First ma!e the front piece by tracing along the front of the sleeve (where the single notch is) down the sleeve as long as you want it to be, and then curve up to the mid#point on the bac! indicated by the pattern.
A) Sleeve ap of front F) Front piece $) $nderarm Seam of front Then ma!e the bac! piece by tracing along the bac! of the sleeve (double notch side) and curving up to the mid point on the front. %on&t forget to transfer the top center mar!s. A') Sleeve ap of bac! ) ac! piece $') $nderarm seam of bac!
Sew the underarm seam first, then baste the two pieces together so the bac! wraps to the front and lays over it, ma!ing sure the top centers match. A) Sleeve ap of front A') Sleeve ap of bac! ) ac! piece F) Front piece $"$') $nderarm seam oined * note+ ac! piece wraps to Front
From there on, treat it as one piece and sew it into the armscye.
A"A') Sleeve aps ) ac! piece wrapped over front F) Front piece beneath ac! piece
http-www.clothingpatterns*E*.comcap)sleeve.html
9i$e its name implies, this s leeve consists of little more than the cap itself and generally doesnFt go all the way aro"nd the armhole.
?s a sho"lder detail it adds a bit of interest and coverage when yo" want something "st a bit more than sleeveless b"t less than a typical short sleeve. ?nd itFs easy to draft and to sew3
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;o"Fll start with yo"r blo"se sleeve block 7the sketch shows only the "pper part of the block since weFre making a very short item). &tart by shortening the cap itself by abo"t (/2G. his red"ces 7or almost eliminates) the ease at the capH itFs not needed in this case. hen mark a point on the grainline abo"t ( (/2G to 2G above the bicep line. rom there draw a gentle curve to each side of the cap below the notches 7the ends will be abo"t /G above the bicep line). his is yo"r hemline.
'he end result is a ver short sleeve, which doesnot surround the arm. @e s"re to mark where the sleeve ends on the front and back blo"se pieces3
or a very cas"al top yo" co"ld t"rn and stitch the hem b"t this sleeve loo$s *est with a hem facing. he facing sho"ld be applied before setting the sleeve into the armhole.
http-sewmanyseams.blogspot.in2E*2E*tulip)sleeve)tutorial.html &o here we go with the t"torial for making a =tted t"lip sleeve.
;o" can either start with a basic sleeve pattern block and c"t it down to short or yo" can "se a cap sleeve pattern that yo" like. 0 will show yo" how to do either.
0f yo" are "sing a long sleeve patterns block yo" will =rst determine the length of the sleeve at the "nder arm and mark that. ;o" will then draw a line connecting the marks. he ill"stration shows (G down from "nderarm. o establish c"rve for lower edge - meas"re "p from new line at center and draw c"rve as shown. 0ll"stration shows (?
!"t apart on c"rved line. 0f yo" are not c"tting down a long sleeve pattern and "st "sing a cap sleeve pattern that yo" already have then yo" will start yo"r alterations here. Divide sleeve into fo"r e+"al parts.
&lash from bottom of sleeve to cap. >ap each slash at bottom (/2? for =t. &mooth c"rve at lower edge. 7Bote. he slashing and overlapping is not completely necessary. 0t "st depends on how m"ch yo" want it to =t or are o"t. %lay with it and have f"n.)
Bet yo" will be drawing the c"rved lines that form the sleeve into the t"lip. ;o" can decide how m"ch of a c"rve yo" want. I"st make s"re yo" make both c"rves even.
race aro"nd the entire front sleeve "sing the c"rved design line making s"re to mark the center top and the notches. race aro"nd the entire back sleeve "sing c"rved design lines making s"re to mark the center top and the notches.
>abel grain lines and make s"re the seam allowances are what yo" want them to be to complete the patterns. Bow on to making a pu@ed tulip sleeve.
?gain yo" can "se a basic sleeve block or a cap sleeve pattern.
0t is all the same steps so far as making a =tted t"lip sleeve.
;o" are going to divide it into the fo"r parts.
Do the optional overlapping.
Bow yo" are going to divide the sleeve into 8 vertical parts.
&lassh the sleeve from top of cap to bottom of sleeve.
&pread for desired f"llness. ,aise sleeve cap to allow sleeve to to Gp"JG ad"st seam line as shown. 7Bote: yo" can also "st "se a p"Jed sleeve pattern and draw the c"rve lines directly on to it. I"st keep in mind if it is a p"Jed sleeve pattern were the f"llness is. ;o" will want all the f"llness in the top of the sleeve and minimal f"llness at the bottom.)
Draw c"rved design lines as shown. ;o" can play aro"nd with it on eactly how yo" want the c"rve to look. I"st make s"re both lines are matching.
race both the entire sleeve front and back "sing the c"rved design lines making s"re to mark the top and notches.
?nd there yo" go yo" have two diJerent types of t"lip sleeves. ?s far as sewing them goes.... he =rst step in assembling the sleeves is to sew the "nderarm seams together. ;o" will then want to =nish the edge of the sleeve. ;o" can either =nish it with a rolled hem. Kr yo" can also =nish it with a r"Le or a piping or whatever =ts yo"r design. Kr yo" can line the sleeve as well. "lip sleeves are an overlapped sleeve that can be =tted or p"Jed. 0t allows for a greater range of motion than the normal cap sleeves and adds some variety. ;o" can trim the edge of the sleeve with pleats r"Les braided or beaded trim or lace. 0 have "sed all of the above at diJerent times. his is one of my favorite sleeve options when it comes to designing a dress. 0t was pop"lar in a lot of vintage patterns.
0t goes especially well with the princess neckline.
0 "st love the added lines it gives to a dress. ?nd 0 like to "se it when 0 am making a dress for someone and donFt have their "pper arm meas"rement. his way it looks like a =tted sleeve b"t 0 donFt have to worry abo"t it being restrictive.
he overlap can be placed in the back or in the front. 0t is "p to yo" on what yo" want to overall look to be.
0 even fo"nd this pict"re of a fo"r part t"lip sleeve. 0 want to try this some time on a light =lmy material for a formal.
0t was also the sleeve pattern on the teal dress that ?my ?damFs wore in he 6"ppets. @tw 0 blogged abo"t all of the cost"mes that she wore back when the movie =rst came o"t. http://sewmanyseams.blogspot.com/2'((/(2/m"ppets-amy-adams-cost"mes.html
