Sewing made easy

1

DEDICATED TO SRI BANKE BIHARILALJI AND MY FAMILY

2

PREFACE Sewing is an ancient art involving stitching of cloths using needle and thread. Previously, it was done by hand gradually, sewing machine came into existence. Nowadays, there is variety of sewing machines available with multi functions and techniques. It makes sewing very easy. Today, ready-made clothing is in trend but it does not affect the popularity of home sewing and at the same time we cannot avoid the trend of readymade garments. Though, there are some garments which we can not stitch at home because stitching them at home seems troublesome say for example Nehru Coat, Gent’s three-piece suit, Blazer etc. Such garments need special skills and technology along with special type of machines to do the same. To simplify, at home with ease this book has been designed to benefit all those who wish to stitch such garments at home. Stitching at home with fineness and fitness could be each and every woman’s desire alone but might be averse to this thought because it is cumbersome and not so very clear enough to take up such assignments at home. I have experienced the same sitting alone at my home. And one fine day I decided to venture out and tried to locate some elementary write ups in various book stalls but could not find the same. I have a background in this field and have learnt from many stalwarts of this trade some tricks and techniques of this trade while learning myself and thereafter while imparting other housewives and learning students at my home from past several years. My students inspired me to write on this subject the way I have handled them during the learning session. I really got imbibed by them and took up this project with a serious thought. This is my debut venture and might not effectively work out in the way I have tried to explain things in a simpler way, however, I wish that the same has to be conveyed once to many aspiring learners. Not all but if a few of them are benefited through this book, I shall be quite happy and thankful to my mentors. To learn home sewing one has to follow some methods and procedures. In the second edition of my book I tried not only to describe all the techniques of sewing in a very easy language but I added instruction and construction of new designer garments of women as blouses, salwar kurta and ghagra or lehenga, which is easy to understand and follow the same. This book will also help to develop the ideas of designing various garments for children and adults. There are many tips which shall help to solve the problems related to fitting of a particular dress by simple cutting and sewing. Many ideas to decorate the dress have been also suggested. I hope this book will be helpful for those who are interested in sewing and have some innovative ideas of designing the garments.

KUSUM SHARMA (Author)

3

CONTENTS CHAPTER 1 Basic sewing stitches, seam finishes and fullness in a garment CHAPTER 2 Neckline, Facing & lining, Pockets & plackets & fasteners CHAPTER 3 Collars & Sleeves CHAPTER 4 Basic elements of design CHAPTER 5 Knowledge of sewing machine CHAPTER 6 Necessary equipment for sewing and knowledge of fabrics CHAPTER 7 Body measurement and measurement table CHAPTER 8 Drafting and layout pattern CHAPTER 9 Children’s clothes CHAPTER 10 Women’s clothes CHAPTER 11 Gents garments CHAPTER 12 Glossary of sewing terms CHAPTER 13 Picture’s gallery

PAGE 4 to 9 10 to 16 17 to 24 25 to 27 28 to 34 35 to 39 40 to 45 46 to 49 50 to 70 71 to 86 87 to 97 98 to 113 114 to 120

4

CHAPTER 1 BASIC SEWING STITCHES, SEAM FINISHES & FULLNESS OF A GARMENT In garment making, knowledge of sewing techniques is necessary. There are some stitches made by hand and machine to complete garment sewing. Some stitches made by hand are temporary and some are permanent. Temporary stitches are used to hold the part of the garment pieces together before permanent stitches are made. Commonly these stitches are made on curved area of the garment such on armhole and necklines. To join facing on neckline and armhole tacking with the hand needle is preferable for good finishing. Some permanent hand stitches are hemming, herringbone and overcastting stitches, which are used to finish the garment.

Basting or tacking This type of stitches is commonly done as raw stitches to hold the two pieces of fabric together. Hand Basting is very essential while attaching yoke, collar, sleeves, plackets, gathers, pleats or patches.

Running stitch Hand needle stitch of equal distance is useful for gathering, mending and quilting.

Back stitch Back stitch is very firm and strong for the area where machine needle cannot reach easily.

Hemming stitch Hemming is a slant stitch done on wrong side and very fine and small stitches shows on right side. This is very essential stitch to complete and finish the garment. Hemming can be done on neck line, Bottom flair of frocks and skirts, sleeve bottom, plackets etc.

5

HEMMING

SEAM FINISHES Seam finish is a finish applied to a raw edge to control ravel and fraying. They also provide a neat appearance to the inside of a garment. The type of finish depends upon the weight of the fabric, the amount and kind of wear and care of a garment and kind of seams of a garment.

Pinked finish Pinked finish is a trim on edges of seam allowance after the seam. This is a kind of small zigzag cutting on edges. This kind of seam finish is suitable only for light fabric.

Edge stitched finish In this seam finish the seam is stitched and pressed open, and then under ¼” on each seam edge and top stitch close to the fold without catching the garment. This type of finish is suitable for bulky fabric. This is mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the seam allowance is wide.

Double stitch finish After making a plain seam, this stitch is done ¼” away from the raw edges. This finish is for light or normal weight fabric.

Herringbone stitch or catch stitch This stitch is also a kind of hemming, which is useful for knitted fabric. It allows the fabric to stretch without causing the stitches to

6

Over casting stitches Over casting stitches is used for inside seam of two layer of fabric after joining on the edges to lock the threads to come out. It is useful for side seam of trouser, sleeves etc.

Over casting stitch Bound seam edge finish After making plain seam, edges of seam allowance is finished by bias strips of fabrics. Bias strips are of light material. Fold the both side edges of strips and bound on the edges of the seam allowance and stitch to finish. This type of finish is done inside the trouser.

SEAM In general terms of sewing, seam is a line of stitching to join two layers of fabrics. To join different parts of a garment different type of stitch is used. Not only had that even different type of fabric also required different type of seams. Some seams are shown on right side of a garment, and some are hidden inside.

Flat or plain seam Flat or plain seam commonly used in dress making. Seam allowance for both the layer of fabric will be equal and edges should finished by overcastting or zigzag.

Flat felled seam First make a plain seam and trim one side of seam allowance to avoid thickness. Press the seam, turn and fold the larger seam allowance to encase the trimmed edge. The folded edge has two rows of machine stitches and is used for jeans and shirts.

7

French seam This seam is a seam within a seam. Make a plain seam on the right side of the fabric at a distance of ¼” from edges. The seam is then pressed to one side, turned over to the wrong side of the fabric and then machined at the actual seam line. The first seam is thus enclosed by the second seam line.

Lapped seam When the yoke and dress or any two sections of fabric to be joined, one upon another then the upper part of the fabric is lapped over the lower edge. This seam gives the raised effect.

Lap felled seam Parallel stitch to lapped seam is called lap felled seam.

Bound seam The seam edges are bound by a bias strip of a thin fabric to keep the seam from fraying.

Flat n felled seam Make a plain seam to join two layers of fabrics. Press both the seam allowances either side and machine two parallel stitches on right side of the garment.

Piped seam A narrow cord is inserted in the bias strip of a fabric and stitched is piped seam.

Loops Loops are stitched to insert belt on trousers and shorts. Stitch a strip of a fabric by folding edges of both sides and place on the area to attach and stitch by bar tacking method.

GATHERS Gathers are fullness of fabric in garment. To make gathers extra fabric is required. Suppose for the skirt ½ of chest + 8” is for normal gathers and for more gathers increase the fabric in inches. Gathering can be done either by hand needle or by machine also. By hand needle make running stitches in equal distance and adjust gatherings by pulling the thread at one end. In machine increase the stitch width and after stitching adjust gatherings by pulling thread at one end. Gathers can be done on sleeves, necklines, skirts or blouses etc.

8

PLEATS Pleats are the folds of fabric to control fullness. For the pleats, requirement of fabric depends upon the number and width of the pleats. There are various types of pleats plain pleats, knife pleats, box pleats, inverted box pleats etc.

DARTS Darts are stitched to give a perfect shape and fitting to a dress. It is used basically in women’s dresses. Darts are stitched in a particular area of dress and can be shift as per requirement of the shape and fitting. Commonly there are shoulder darts, bust darts, waist darts and hip darts for various garments. Some steps to be taken to form a dart. 1 Determine the number of dart. 2 The width, length and position of dart should determine. 3 Dart point should be either one side or both sides.

TUCKS Tucks are the stitches by hand or machine on the right side of the fabric to give fullness to the garment or for decorative purpose. It gives raising effect. Tucks should stitch on plain fabric first, afterwards cut the pattern of the garment. Tuck can be done on yoke, sleeves, pockets and waist part of skirt. It gives the raising effect. Pin tucks may be only in vertical lines, or vertical and horizontal lines as cross or can be stitched on bias fabric.

FRILLS AND RUFFLES Frills are a long strip gathered fabric used for the designing purpose. Frills are attached to the garment on one corner. But ruffles are gathered and attached on centre. Frills are used mainly in frocks, skirts, sleeves, collars, necks and yokes. Ruffles are used for shirts, plackets, skirts and frocks etc.

9

FRILLS

RUFFLES

SMOCKING Smocking is a method to enrich any garment on yoke, neck line and sleeve bottoms. It is suitable for frocks and women’s garments, such as dresses, nighty and blouses. For smocking mark equal points of ½” or ¼”distance on both side edges of the fabric. Stitch the gather on the same points by hand needle, pull the thread from one end for close gathering. Close and vertical lines of folding will be shown. On these folding embroidery can be done by different colour of threads with different types of stitches.

10

CHAPTER 2 NECKLINES, FACING & PLACKETS & FASTENERS

LINING,

POCKET,

NECKLINES Neckline finish is very important for the final appearance of the garment. There are various types of shapes of neck lines such as round, square, v shape, sweet heart etc.

To draw neck line mark 0 to 1 as length or depth of the neck as per choice. 0 to 2 is the width of the neck i.e. 1/12th of the chest measurement. 3 is the meeting point of 1 and 2. Measure 4 a center point of 1-3 and 5 a centre point of 2-3. Measure 1” diagonally outside from 3 and name as 6. Draw a curved shape with the help of the French curve on 4 to 5. By following this method other different type of neck shapes can be drawn within the rectangle shape of 0-1-3 & 2. To draw sweetheart shape measure ¾” outside from 4-5 and 6-7 at the center point of 1-3 and 2-3 in second figure. Draw curve shape with the help of French curve on 1-5-3 and 3-7-2. Same method can be followed to draw scalloped shape of neck. Join 1 and 2 as V shape and divide in two, three or more equal measures as per the size of scallops. Leave a small V shape at point 1 and for other scallops mark the center points. From these center points measure ½” outside for scallops on 7-8 and 9-10. Draw curve shape with the help of French curve on 48-5 and 5-10-6.

Necklines can be finished by facing, piping or collar. To finish the neckline with facing, place front and back bodice on a piece of fabric, this is folded on lengthwise. Draw outline of the neck shape and remove the bodice. Now mark the width of the neck shape strip around the neck shape and draw final outline. Cut the strip as per marking. Mark a small notch on the centre back and centre front of the strip and bodice. Place the strip on right side of the bodice with matching front and back notch. Tack the strip with hand needle for good finish. Stitch on ¼” away from edges. Remove tacking, turn and press the seam. Turn the strip on wrong side of the bodice. Fold other side edges of the strip and hem. Before hemming, tacking can give good finish. This method is useful for any kind of neck shape, especially

11 sweet-heart, scallop shape or any other type of curved shapes. Before turning, cut a small on stitched edges on corners for good shape.

Another way to finish the neck line is with bias strips of fabric. Bias strips are more stretchable so that, after turning it maintains the neck shape. To join two or more bias strips place them as shown in figure and join as per requirement. Place the strip on right side of the bodice and tack with the hand needle. Stitch ¼” from edges. Cut a small on the edges of the (A & B, see the figure) corners and shapes of the neck line. Turn and press the seam.

Fold other side edges and tack. To finish the neck line, hem. Bias strip finish is suitable for curved and V shape necklines. For the piping finish, bias strips should be joined. For piping, strip should stretch on straight line of neck line and should not stretch on curved shapes. Some time neck facing material, easily available in market with one side adhesive and can stick with neck strip, by hot ironing. This facing helps to maintain the pointed shapes of neck on the light weight fabric material. After stitching neck facing strip a small cut diagonally (as shown on below figure) and turn to press the seam and hem to get perfect shape of neckline.

All these methods are useful to finish neck lines in garments like frocks, kurtis and blouses. Lace, collar, embellishment with bids or other materials and embroidery are some other options to finish neck lines.

FACING & LINING Facing are used to finish the necklines and arm holes in a garment. The felted facing should cut exact the shape of the neck line, round, square or V shape and then cut the same shape of fabric layer also matching to the garment. First place fabric layer of neckline and then lining part on the garment on right side. Tack with hand needle and then machine. Turn on wrong side neatly, fold the edges and hem to finish the neck line. Same method is applicable for arm hole finishing also.

LINING Lining is a very light material to attach from inside the garment to protect the fabric from sagging. It used for very fine fabrics, transparent fabrics and lace or net fabrics. To attach lining cut the lining

12 fabric same as the bodice and keep 1/4” allowance for seam on shoulder and side seam and then machine with the main part and turn inside for final stitching. Lining should attach on side seam, and shoulder area.

Mulmul, voile, cambric and satin fabrics are good for lining and can be selected according to the main fabric. If lining material is starched then pre-wash the material before use to prevent shrinkage.

INTERFACING Interfacing is the material inserted between the garment and the facing or lining to add stiffness. It gives a perfect shape and stiffness for collars, cuffs, plackets, waist belts, pocket flaps and salwar bottoms. Interfacing are cut without seam allowances and place first main fabric then lining and on top place inter facing piece and turn after machining.

POCKETS Pockets are very important parts of a garment for storage and decorative purpose. There are many types of pockets attached to different types of garments.

PATCH POCKETS Patch pockets are a patch of fabric matching to the garment, attached on front part of the garment. To attach patch pockets some precautions should be taken such as, the size of the pocket should be according to the proportion of the garment. It should be attached in a correct position. Fold one side edge of pocket and stitch. Fold other three side edges of the pocket and tack with hand needle. Place the pocket on garment on decided position and tack with hand needle. Stitch the pocket on two sides and bottom. Bar tack or zigzag stitch is necessary at the two sides of open area on top. (A & B)

SLASH POCKET Slash pockets may be one piece or two piece as per design of the garment. For slash pocket, mark the pocket line and place the pocket on right side of the garment and tack. Slit along the pocket line and make slashes at the two corners up to the seam line. Turn the pocket fabric inside. Press the seam and finish the edges with bias strip. Slash pockets are for blazer, coat and trouser.

13

Slash Pocket SEAM POCKETS Pockets hidden inside the seam line of a garment is called seam pocket. This is a kind of two piece pockets and attached to front part with the side seam of legs and with the waist band.

Join A, B and C, which is the shape of the pocket and turn so that seam part will be inside. Cut a rectangle piece of main fabric according to the length of the open of the pocket. Place the rectangle Piece D on inner layer of the pocket and stitch. Join another layer of pocket with the side seam of front, turn and press the seam and finish the open part with a top stitch. Place the other layer of pocket with side seam of front and back and join. Finish the both ends of opening by bar tacking or zigzag stitch. This pocket is generally attached on lower waist line, such as on trouser, skirt and men’s kurta.

KANGAROO POCKET As per name this pocket is like a kangaroo bag and attached on the top side of the garment with flap. Generally this pocket is attached on casual wear garments.

Flap stitching

Kangaroo Pocket

Cut the piece of pocket as per size. Cut the flap piece as less than half of the length of the pocket. Fold three side edges of flap and stitch. Place the flap piece on garment at position and stitch. Fold the top edges of the pocket and stitch as in patch pocket. Cut a narrow strip of fabric according to the one width and two length of the pocket. Stitch the strip on three sides of pocket. Fold the other side edges of the strip, attached with pocket. Place the pocket on the position close to flap joining, so that flap will cover the top part of the pocket, tack with hand needle and stitch. Kangaroo pockets are for casual wear trousers and Bermuda.

PLACKETS Plackets are a straight strip of fabric to finish the opening of the garment. Plackets are kept closed with the fasteners such as buttons and buttonholes, hooks and eyes, press buttons or zip. Opening of a

14 garment depends upon the design, may be on front, back, on shoulder line or on waist line. Some plackets are conspicuous and some are inconspicuous.

One piece placket This one piece placket is attached on the garment as a slit opening, where there is no seam line. For this type of placket cut a 2” width strip of fabric and length will be more than double the slit. It is attached continuously from one end, tapering towards the midpoint. The fabric is then turned by leaving the needle in the fabric and then machined to the other end. The placket piece is turned fully on the side and machined on folded area. One piece plackets are used for sleeve cuffs, side opening in skirts etc.

One piece or continuous placket Bound and faced placket This placket is used in the left seam of the skirt, sari petticoat and back seam of dresses, frocks etc. Cut two strips of fabric as per the length of the opening and 1” extra. One strip is 1 ½” width and the other is 2 ¼”. Place 2 ¼” width of strip on right side of the fabric on right hand side part, and stitch from top to bottom. At the end keep seam line narrow for convenience to turn. Press the seam and keep the placket outer side. Fold the other side edges by ¼” and stitch. Double fold the placket and stitch. Place the 1 ½” width strip of placket on the other part of the garment and stitch the same way as previous one. Fold the edges and stitch. Press the seam and turn placket totally inside of the garment and finish by hemming.

Bound & faced Placket Zipper placket There are various methods to attach zip placket. Zip is generally concealed in garment or one side overlap or sometime both side overlapped. Cut a strip of fabric with 1 ½” to 2” width and length as per opening of the garment. Open zip and place by turning one part of zip on right side of the garment and tack with hand needle. Tacking is necessary to avoid slip of zip at the time of machining. Double fold the fabric strip and place on tacked zip and stitch. Repeat the same method for other side. Press the seam and turn the fabric strip on wrong side of the garment. To flatten the zip a top stitch is required on the joining of the strip and zip from top side. To show the zip, this method can be used. For one side overlap of zip stitching, two stripes of fabric are required as in previous method. Turn one part of zip and place on the garment opening and tack with hand needle. Double fold the strip of fabric and place above the zip and make a stitch close to the zip. Turn and press the seam. To flatten the zip part a top stitch on joining line is required. Now on the other part, double the fabric strip and join with the garment. Place the zip on the fabric strip folded edge and stitch on the edges of the zip part. Press the seam and turn the fabric strip with stitched zip on wrong side of the garment. Join the strip with the garment part ½” away from edges. At the end of the zip opening bar tacking is necessary, so that zip holder will not go inside and for smooth overlapping. Same method is applicable to stitch the zip for trousers and shorts. For both side overlapping follow second part of zip joining of this method.

15

Conspicuous Placket Kurta Placket Kurta placket is two piece plackets. Lower placket is wider than upper one. The centre front line is slit to form the opening in kurta. The wider piece is attached on the right and the other on the left. Both these are then folded into half and machined. The larger placket is then flattened to extend equally on either side of the seam line. The lower edge of the placket is folded into a V-shape and edge-machined.

Right side & Wrong side of Kurta placket

FASTENERS All garments needs openings to put on and taken off easily. These openings can be closed in a variety of ways. Plackets are stitched to finish the openings. For women garments, the right side part of the garment laps over the left side and left side laps over the right side for men’s garment. Fasteners should be selected to suit the colour, design and texture of the fabric, the style and use of the garment and the position of the placket. Fasteners should stitch after completing the garment by machine sewing.

Hooks and eyes There are various kinds of hooks and eyes available. Hooks and eyes are generally made of metal and are mostly applied on waist bands. There are provision of small holes to stitch hooks by needle and thread. Generally, hooks and eyes remain hidden on the garment. The placket stitched with hook laps on the placket stitched with eye. Place the hook on the edges of the placket and stitch making loops around the hole of the hook. Repeat the same method of stitching for all the holes. Place eye on the opposite side of placket, on edge and stitch on both ends hole on the same way.

For the small hooks, threaded eyes can make. Make a small loop of thread by stitching with hand needle on the placket, repeat the loop three to more times for strong ness. Now fill the loop with blanket stitch to bind all the loops together. Threaded loops used on the ladies blouses, dresses and frocks.

16

Buttons Buttons stitched on the garment right side and for both functional and decorative purpose. Buttons are also several types and made of various things. Buttons can be stitched with buttonholes or so many type of press buttons are there to stitch on both side plackets to close. Buttons are made of plastic, wood, beads, pearl and metal. Place the button on the right side of the placket and stitch on the holes by inserting needle with thread one to another by making two parallel stitch or cross.

Button Stitching

Buttonhole Stitching

To make buttonhole mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the right side of the placket. Buttonhole position will be always 3mm away from the placket edge. Same distance 3mm is applicable for vertical or horizontal buttonhole. Buttonhole always made with matching thread of garment. Do not slash the buttonhole. Stitch around the entire buttonhole using very fine hand running stitches to indicate the width of the stitching. Fold the buttonhole end to end and make a small cut in the middle with a sharp pointed pair of scissor. Open cut and slash to each end. Leaving thread unknotted take a back stitch on the wrong side near the end of the buttonhole. Bring the needle out through the buttonhole to the right side. With the right side of garment up, hold the cut buttonhole over the index finger of your left hand and work the buttonhole using close buttonhole. Buttonhole can be stitched by machine with close zigzag and both the ends should bar tack. Machine stitched buttonholes are strong than stitched by hand. Vertical buttonholes are for men’s shirt and horizontal buttonholes for children’s garment.

Press Buttons Press button are made of metal and available in different size. There is two part of press buttons; one is ball and the other is socket. Ball is to press in socket to close the button. After completing the garment and finish opening with placket, mark the points for button. Place ball part of button on right side, at the centre of the placket width, which will lap on the other and stitch four holes of buttons one by one with repeating the thread stitch four to five times. Place the socket part of button on wrong side of placket and stitch in a same way.

17

CHAPTER 3 COLLARS & SLEEVES COLLARS A collar is an added piece of fabric that surrounds the neck and is attached to the neck line of the garment. Collars may be soft or stiff and may be for only decorative purpose, such as collars made by embroidered fabric or by lace. There are varieties of collars attached to various garments. To cut a collar piece for a particular garment basic bodice of that size is required as half-front and half-back. To cut a collar for any garment, place front and back part of bodice on a paper, by matching neck point. Draw the outline of neck line and remove the bodice. Mark the points as per the pattern of the collar and draw the shape of the collar. Cut the paper pattern. Fold the fabric lengthwise for the continuous piece of collar and place the paper pattern on the folded fabric and fix with pins. Draw inner and outer line of the collar. Cut two piece of collar of the fabric. Separate the collar piece either on front or back for opening in the garment, as per pattern.

Draw neckline on paper pattern. Draw collar pattern. Place paper pattern on fabric. Finish opening part of the garment, before stitching the collar. Place two piece of collar by facing right side, keep in and keep wrong side on top. Stitch on outer shape of the collar along with two ends to join together. Turn and press the seam. Mark a small notch on either centre front or back, on both collar and bodice. Cut a fabric strip as the neck line shape or bias. Place the collar on right side of the garment by matching notch mark and tack with the hand needle. Fold the edge of the fabric strip for finishing and stitch together joining garment with collar and finish the other end same way. Press the seam and turn the fabric strip on wrong side and hem neatly. This method is applicable only for flatten collars.

PETER PAN COLLAR Place front and back bodice blocks by matching neck point to shoulder line, opposite to each other as shown in figure. Draw out line. Mark collar width and shape. Draw collar pattern as per design and cut paper pattern. Place this paper pattern on fabric and mark seam allowance all around. On paper pattern seam allowance is not counted. Cut the two layer of fabric and one piece of facing for collar. Peter Pan collar is popular for women’s shirts and frocks.

18

Peter-Pan-Collar BERTHA COLLAR Place the front and back bodice block as same for the peter-pan-collar and draw an outline. Bertha collar has lowered neck line and it extends beyond shoulder. Draw lowered neck line for both front and back and from neck point mark width of the collar and draw the shape with extension of shoulder by 3/4th to 1”.

.

Bertha Collar

CAP COLLAR Cap collar is wider than bertha collar and goes beyond the shoulder line. Place front and back bodice block and draw neck line and from neck point mark the width of the collar 6:5 to 7”inches. Draw Shape the collar out line with extension on shoulder. Cap collar looks good on frocks and dresses.

Cap Collar

19

SCALLOP COLLAR Scallop collar is a type of decorative collar for frocks. First draw the cap collar as per instructions and then decide the one or two scallop point and redraw the collar shape.

Scallop Collar BISHOP COLLAR Bishop collar is V shape on front and curved shape on back and extended on shoulder as cap collar. Draw front and back outline and draw back collar shape curved as cap collar. On front collar width is extended up to waist line at the centre front. As per name this collar is popular for the bishop’s dress.

Bishop Collar SQUARE COLLAR Draw front and back bodice block and mark the width of the collar from neck point. Draw square shape as per the extension on shoulder line. Back collar width looks wider than front because of the short neck depth. The neck shape of the garment may be curved or square as per the collar shape.

20

SAILOR COLLAR Sailor collar is wide square shape on back and pointed on front. After drawing front and back draw square shape for back. On centre front line mark the point for the width of the collar. Join this point to neck point and shoulder point as shown in figure. This collar has triangle shape on front.

Sailor Collar SHIRT COLLAR Shirt collar is convertible collar. This collar is cut on straight grain of a fabric. The neck line is raised at the centre front by 3/4th to 1 inch as per size of the shirt. The neck line is raised at the centre back by ½”. The raised neck line is then measured from the centre back to centre front line. Draw a vertical line A-B as per width of the collar. A-D & B-C = ½ the neck circumference. D-C = A-B E = Centre point of A-D & F = Centre point of B-C. C-G and D-H = ½ inch upside. Join F and G. Join E to H with the extension of 1:5” to 2” up to point I. The stand of the shirt collar Draw A-B as per the width of the stand which is less than the collar width. B-C & A-D = same as collar. C-D = A-B. C-G and D-H = ½” upside. Extend F and G up to J by ½” and extend E-H up to I by same. Draw curve on H-I-J. After drawing the collar and stand draft draw ¼” extra all around for seam allowance.

Shirt collar

Stand

Collar & stand joining

Cut two piece of collar and two piece of stand of fabric and one piece each of facing or buckram without seam allowance. Place two piece of collar, facing right side to each other. On wrong and top side, stitch on A, B, C and D. Turn and press the seam. Insert buckram piece inside the collar and stitch on edges on A, B, C and D. Stitch one parallel line to edges as per shape of the collar. Place the stand same way as

21 collar, place collar on B-D part in between a piece of stand and another piece of stand with buckram. Fix with pins or tack with hand needle. Stitch together. Turn and press the seam and stitch on edges in a same way as in collar. Mark a small notch on the centre of the back neck of shirt and centre of the collar. Fold edges of one piece of stand and stitch. Place the collar on shirt by matching notch mark. Stitch from front to back and come back on front other side. Press the seam and by keeping inside the seam, lap the other finished edge on and stitch. Finish both the end neatly by machine.

MANDARIN COLLAR Draw a rectangle box ABCD. F = centre of B-C and E = centre of A-D. C-G and D-H = ½” upside. H-I = ½” inside. Join E-G and F-I-G. Draw curve on I. Place two piece of collar facing right side each other and join on A, E, H and G. Turn and press the seam. Mark a small notch at the centre of the collar and on back neck of shirt. Finish edges of one piece of collar by folding edges and stitch. Match the notch mark of collar and shirt and fix with pins. Stitch collar piece with neck line from front to back and come back to front. Press the seam and by keeping inside, place the finished edge of collar and stitch to finish the collar. Mandarin collar is generally worn by Chinese officials with rich embroidered. This type of collar used for Jackets, Blouses and Gent’s kurta.

THE SHAWL COLLAR Shawl collar is for coat and dress which turned down to fall a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front. Draw a vertical line A-B. Place the centre front of the bodice block on the line A B and mark the outline. Extend the shoulder line and the centre front line and mark the point of inter section as A, Mark a point C ½” above A, Join C-F. Draw a line C D at right angle to C F and equal to the length of the back neckline. Complete the rectangle FCDE making DE=CF and CD=EF. The line DE is the centre back of the collar. DE is attached by a seam to the corresponding line on the second front section. Mark a line at a distance of 1”, parallel to the centre front line AB. From the point D shape out as desired and curve down to the extended centre front line as illustrated.

THE SHAWL COLLAR

22

SLEEVES PLAIN SLEEVES Plain sleeves are attached to any garment with matching to centre point of sleeve and shoulder joining. The length of the sleeve may vary as short, medium or full length. 0-1 is the short or medium length of the sleeve plus fold as per choice. 0-2 is the 1/4th of the chest as the width of the sleeve. Draw a box by joining 0-1-3 & 2. 4 are the center point of 0-2 and 5 is the center point of 0-4. Measure 2-6 same as 2-4. Measure ¼” on 5-7, ½” on 5-8 and 1.25” on 8-9. Join 6-8-7 & 0 for the back armhole shape and join 6-9 & 7 for the front armhole shape. Measure 1-10 as half of the bottom girth of the sleeve with seam allowance. Join 6-10 as per shape. To cut follow back armhole shape first then open the sleeve and cut front armhole shape on one side of the sleeve.

To stitch, first finish the bottom of the sleeves by hemming or by machine. Mark a small notch at the centre of the armhole of the sleeves. Match this notch with the shoulder joining of the bodice and simultaneously match the back and front armhole of sleeves and bodice. Tack the sleeve with hand needle and machine.

PUFF SLEEVES There are three types of puff sleeves. In the first type of sleeve puffs are on both side means on the shoulder and on the centre of the sleeve bottom. There are puffs only on shoulder or top of the arm is the second type of puff sleeve. In the third type of sleeve puffs are only on sleeve bottom. To draw the pattern of puff sleeve, first draw plain sleeve draft and then apply slash method to add puffs on shoulder or on bottom of the sleeves. For puff on both sides separate all the segments of plain sleeve and place them in equal distance according to the requirement of the puffs, redraw the out line of sleeve. If puff is required only on one part then don’t slash completely, but keeping other side joint spread the slash part according to the requirement of puffs. Puff sleeves are always popular for frocks, blouses and women’s shirts.

Both side puff sleeve by slash method Puff on armhole Puff on sleeve bottom To stitch puff sleeve stitch gathers on decided area of armhole and bottom. Adjust gathers at the center and place a strip of fabric on the right side of the sleeve bottom as per the measurement of the bottom

23 girth plus seam allowance. Press the seam and turn the strip towards wrong side and finish with machine stitch or hem. Place side of the sleeve on the side of the body of the garment by matching of the armhole of front or back shape and start stitching towards center. Adjust gathers at the center of the armhole by keeping other sides of sleeve and body equal.

THREE FOURTH LENGTH OF SLEEVE To draw the pattern for the three fourth length of the sleeve measure the length 0-1 from shoulder point to down the elbow. Rest of the sleeve shape is to be drawn as plain sleeve only bottom of the sleeve will be half girth measurement of the elbow with seam allowance.

VARIOUS TYPES OF FULL LENGTH SLEEVES 0-1 is the full length of the sleeve with bottom fold. 0-2 is 1/4th of the chest for the width of the sleeve. Draw a box by joining 0-1-3 & 2. 4 are the center point of 0-2 and 5 is the center point of 0-4. Measure ¼” on 5-8, ½” on 4-6 and 1.25” on 6-7. Measure 2-9 same as 2-4. Join 9-6-5 & 0 for the back armhole shape and join 9-7-8 for the front armhole shape. 0-10 is same as 2-9. Join 9-10 as a straight line. Mark 11 as the center point of 1-10. Measure 11-12 as the half of the elbow girth with half inch of seam allowance. Measure half inch less than 11-12 on 1-13 for loose bottom or half of the bottom girth of the sleeve with seam allowance for fitted bottom. Join 9-13 as per shape. To cut follow back armhole shape first then open the sleeve and cut front armhole shape on one side of the sleeve. Stitching method of this plain full sleeve is same as plain sleeve.

Full sleeve with puff on shoulder To get puff on the shoulder on full sleeve length extend 0-14 by 2.5” upside. Redraw the armhole shapes with extended line and shape and cut. Stitch gather on 4-14 and adjust on shoulder while joining with the armhole shape of the garment.

24

Full sleeve with puff on shoulder and gathers on bottom To get gather on bottom also measure 3-13 just half inch for shape and join 9-13. Stitches gather on 1-13 and adjust at the center to get perfect shape. Finish bottom of the sleeve with the strip of the fabric.

Gathers on shoulder and bottom Extend 0-A and 1-B by 2 to 2.5” for the gather. Rest of the sleeve drafting is same as plain full sleeve. Stitches gather on extended part of the sleeve and adjust at the center of the sleeve. Finish bottom of the sleeve and join with the armhole of the garment.

Sleeve with cuff at bottom This type of the sleeve is generally stitched for shirts. 0-1 is the full length of the sleeve less cuff length by 2.5” to 3”. Rest of the sleeve is drawn same as plain sleeve. Measure 3-13 just half inch for shape and join 9-13. 0-1 and 2-3 is the length of the cuff. 0-2 & 1-3 is ½ of the wrist girth with additional 1” for loose and ½” for seam allowance. Measure ½” on 3-4 and 3-5 for shape and draw a small curve shape on it. Measure ¼” all around 5-1-0-2 & 4 for seam allowance. Cut one buckram piece of cuff without adding seam allowance of ¼”. Cut two layers of cuff on fabric. Place both the layers by facing right side in and place buckram piece on it and fix with alpines. Stitch ¼” from the edges on 0-1-5-4-2. Turn and press the seam. Top stitch all around ¼” from the edges. Fold ¼” of one layer of the cuff on wrong side and stitch. Cut a small notch at the center of the sleeve cuff. Before joining cuff with the sleeve finish the opening of the sleeve by stitching placket. Now match unstitched layer of 0-2 open of the cuff with the sleeve bottom by adjusting extra fabric of sleeve as a pleat by facing towards open of the cuff. Press the seam and place stitched layer of cuff on the seam by keeping seam inside and stitch on edges.

BELL SLEEVE Bell sleeve is as per name from top arm to bottom, bell shaped. This sleeve is flared on bottom and looks good with soft fabric. The drape of the sleeves comes perfect if cut on bias fabric.

Bell sleeve on bias fabric

BISHOP SLEEVE Bishop sleeve is a type of long sleeve for dress or blouse. It is full below elbow and gathered at wrist.

LEG’O MUTTON SLEEVE This a tight fitting sleeve from wrist to elbow. The leg’o mutton sleeves balloons out from the elbow to the top of the arm where it is gathered or pleated into the bodice of the dress.

25

KIMONO SLEEVE Kimono sleeve has extra large sleeve panel which is set into a deep armhole that reaches from shoulder to waist. The kimono sleeve is basically taken from traditional costume from Japan and Singapore. It has been used by the designers for coats, jackets and sweaters.

RAGLON SLEEVE It is a sleeve named after Lord Raglan, British Commander during the World War I. The sleeve extends from the neck line to the waist. It is joined to bodice of a coat or dress by disregard seams from the neck to under the arms allowing for greater mobility of the arms and the body. Raglan sleeves are used for sports wear also.

DOLMAN SLEEVE This sleeve is a part of a body cuts as an extension of the bodice of a dress, blouse or jacket. This is designed without socket from the shoulder, thus creating a deep wide armhole that reaches till the waist. Dolman sleeves are used for knit wear and sports wear.

26

SLEEVE CUFFS Sleeves have to be finished at the lower end by hemming or with a cuff. Sleeve cuff is a band with or without ruffles attached to the bottom end of the sleeves. Cuffs are of various types such as lapped cuff, shirt cuff, band cuff or French cuff. Some cuffs are decorated with ruffles or lace for the women’s garments. Shirt cuff is for the formal type of shirts. The lapped cuff has one end lapped over the other end with the opening along the seam line.

Lapped cuff BASIC SEWING TECHNIQUE

Shirt cuff*

If any dart is there, stitch the darts on front or back parts. If there are two or more pieces for the front part according to the design join them to complete a part. Finish the opening of the garment. Join front and back shoulder. Finish the neckline with facing or collar. Finish the bottom of the sleeves. Match the centre notch of the sleeve with the shoulder seam of the body. If gather is there on shoulder adjust it and tack with hand needle or pin. Join sleeves with body. Mark side seam line and machine. Fold the hemline and stitch. Finish the garment with fasteners. For the leg wear finish the front open with zip attachment. Place pockets and stitch. Join front and back sides together. Fold the bottom part of the leg and stitch. Stitch on inner leg parts. Finish the crochet seam. Stitch waist belt with garment. Finish the garment with hooks on waist.

27

CHAPTER 4 BASIC ELEMENTS OF DESIGN Lines, colour, shapes, textures, and value are the basic elements of design. These elements plays an important role to design or to select a particular garment for a particular person. Most individuals do not have perfect, well proportionate figures and clothing style have the advantage of being able to hide those features that are unattractive and also to form new lines that give a graceful and pleasing appearance. Elements of the design are the tools used by clothing manufacturers when a garment is designed and constructed to enhance the appearance of a person.

LINES The lines have characteristics that symbolize dignity, movements, waves and repose etc. An individual can project different faces of the personality by selecting appropriate lines to suit the mood and the occasion. Lines, which fall within the garment, are darts, tucks, pleats, colour contrasts and hemline. These lines are generally matched to the dress silhouette. A silhouette refers to the outer shape of the garment. A narrow silhouette gives height to the person and a wider silhouette make a person look shorter. Triangular silhouette are broad on the top and narrow at hem line, resembling a triangle. Selection of fabric also affects the silhouette of a garment. For example, a soft fabric with lots of gathers frills or lace in the design makes a dominant silhouette. A line with a designing effect, adds another dimension to silhouette. When skillfully used they create a pleasing illusion or dimension. The visual effect of lines can be varied depending on the width of each line and the distance between two adjacent lines. Close vertical lines adds height to the figure, where as wider lines tends to cut the height of a figure. Horizontal lines denote flexibility and informality. Diagonal lines with a small angle, creates a falling of fullness and with a wider angle gives the impression of broadness. Curved lines are considered graceful and feminine; those in a diagonal direction are the most graceful and can be seen in the soft folds of material in a draped dress or a ruffled collar.

COLOUR Colour plays an important role in the selection of garment. Shades worn, ones taste and discretion can add or reduce to ones personality. It is therefore necessary to understand the quality of warm or coolness of a colour, which reflects and how they affect the temperament and appearance of the garment one wears. Colour adds rest, stimulates moods, creates pleasantness and helps to relax. Light colours add width to figure and dark colours make one look slimmer. If a person have very fare complexion, should avoid very light colours and a person with dark complexion should not go for dark colour garments. Shorter height person should avoid bright colours, and should select the fabric with vertical stripes or small prints. The colours of spectrum are called hue. Red, green, violet are the colour of rainbow are called as hue. Brightness is the value of colour. Black has the lowest value of brightness and white has the highest value of brightness. When any colour is diluted with black is called shades and opposite to that if any colour is diluted with white it is called tints. There are three primary colours red, blue and yellow. Black and white is neutral colours. By mixing two primaries one secondary colour can be obtained. For example red + white = pink, yellow + blue = green. Complementary colour is the result of mixing one primary colour with one secondary colour. Choice of colour for the garment depends not only on figure but purpose, season and fashion also. One should avoid bright colours for the formal wear and for the party wear dull colours should not select.

28 Warm colours are suitable for the winter season and cool colours are good for summer season. Thus choice of colour for a garment not only depends upon personality but also on the season and occasion.

SHAPE/FORM Form is the shape and structure of a garment. Shape is two dimensional and appears flat; form is three dimensional with length, width and depth. (A circle is a shape; a ball is a form). Shapes define a figure, create ground relationships and relate forms and figures.

TEXTURE Texture is the surface quality of a fabric or material. It is how something feels when it is touched or looks like it would feel if touched; rough, smooth, soft or hard.

VALUE Value is the relative degree of lightness and darkness in a design element. Line, colour, texture and shape all need value contrast in order to be seen. Value is used to describe objects, shapes and space.

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN Principles of design are how we use the tools to create looks (whole outfits, accessories, shoes etc.) that are different or unique.

PROPORTION The relative length of two parts of a garment termed as proportion. The placement of waist line, yoke line or the hemline divides the length of a dress approximately so that it appear pleasingly proportionate to the person’s height and to the measurement from waist to ankle. The size of the collar, buttons and pockets and the width of the belt and cuff also can affect the appearance; therefore these should be proportionate to the size of the wearer.

BALANCE Details to maintain a feeling of equal weight or attraction from side to side, front to back and top to bottom is termed as balance. There are basically two approaches to balance. FORMAL BALANCE: A formal balance is achieved through replacement of identical details at equal or opposite distance from vertical line at the centre, or a horizontal line at the waist shows a formal balance. INFORMAL BALANCE: When the details on the garment are not identical to each other, it obtains an informal balance, because a diagonal line divides the garment in two pieces which are not even.

RHYTHM Rhythm means the repeat use of lines or shape to create a pattern. For example, the colour of a collar or yoke can be repeated in the skirt in the form of pocket, a patch design or a frill. The shape of the neck or collar can also be repeated in any other decorative features such as flaps or pockets. This recurrence of a feature or colour in the dress arrangement gives it an acceptable, harmonious rhythm.

EMPHASIS Emphasis is a single point of interest referred to the dominants of one part with the supporting of others. A good design feature which is the centre of interest of focal point by the other features supported. It should have the effect of leading the eye to the same attracting features. For example, a plain kurta with an attractive hand embroidered yoke. If the fabric is elaborate then style should be simple and if the fabric is plain then the silhouette can be elaborate.

29

UNITY Unity includes clothing, all accessories and you. Lines and shapes that repeat each other show unity. Colours that have a common hue create unity (a soft texture with curved lines). Try to create a certain mood or theme---sporty, tailored, dramatic, casual- and keep the clothing and accessories in harmony with your colouring, your build and your age. Then you’ll have unity.

CORRECT STYLE FOR CORRECT FIGURE The average figure can carry off most styles without any difficulty, but those with figure irregularities have to adapt fashion style to hide or make the irregularities seem less obvious. A person with short neck should avoid style with collars and ruffles neck lines. Low cut neck line dress will appear the neck line longer. Opposite to that high collars and standing ruffles are suitable for a figure with long neck line. Use styles that do not emphasize the shoulder width such as kimono sleeves or raglan sleeves. Narrow shoulder figure should go for dropped shoulder style or shoulder pads can help. Loose flowing style from the shoulder, cut in panels or on the bias, is suitable for the large bust lines. A person with a high waist or a prominent waistline should avoid the style that emphasizes the waist. Loose and long T- shirts or blouses are more suitable for high waist line figure. For those who have narrow and attractive waist line, styles such as shirring, and belts are appealing. Trousers and tight skirts should avoid the figure with large hips. They can choose the dress flared from waist line.

ACCESSORIES There are three types of accessories. Embroidery, show buttons and laces are the accessories, which enhances the garment. Some accessories wear by figure or body such as jewelry, shoes or make-up and hair style also includes in this category. Purse or umbrella is the third type of accessories which is carrying by model.

30

CHAPTER 5 KNOWLEDGE OF SEWING MACHINE To work with sewing machine one should know the system operation and maintained of it. Today there are varieties of sewing machines are available in market. In previous days simple machines were there with selected functions, but now a days technology is so developed so there are multi-functional machines are available with electric or motor operated. Now just by changing knob different stitches can be done. To know about the function of sewing machine, knowledge of different parts is necessary. First we will discuss about the common parts of a sewing machine, which are present in both, simple and multi-functional sewing machine. Though there are some special parts in the multi functional machine for different functions.

ORDINARY SEWING MACHINE 1- PRESSURE REGULATING SCREW This screw should be tightened while working with finer fabric like organdie and chiffon and to be loosened for the thick fabric like denim.

2- TAKE UP LEVER It controls the flow and movement of the spool thread.

3- SPOOL THREAD TENSION DIAL It can be turned to the right to left or right to left to increase or decrease the tension of the spool thread.

4- NEEDLE CLAMP It holds the needle in position.

5- PRESSURE FOOT It holds the fabric in place and under it feed dog feeds the fabric during the sewing process.

6- NEEDLE PLATE Needle plate has guidelines to help to keep seams straight.

7- SLIDE PLATE The slide plate slides out side to load or unload bobbin case. Some time it can be flips up.

8- STITCH REGULATOR LEVER It regulates the required stitch length. At the top position stitch length is larger and reverse for small stitches. Large stitches are for thick fabric and small stitches for sheer fabrics.

9- BOBBIN WINDER SPINDLE

31 It holds the bobbin for winding the thread.

10- SPOOL PIN Spool pins are for thread spool to rotate freely during sewing.

11- BALANCE WHEEL To start the machine this balance wheel rotates. First this rotation is done by hand and then simultaneously it continues with handle or by foot paddle. To stop machine, balance wheel should be stopped by hand.

12- BOBBIN WINDER THREAD GUIDE It regulates thread tension for bobbin winding.

MULTI-FUNCTIONAL SEWING MACHINE There are some special knobs for different functions in this machine.

13- STITCH WIDTH SELECTOR This regulator is to select the width of plain stitch and zigzag stitches.

14- NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR This selector places needle position right, left or at the centre as per requirement.

15- DROP FEED CONTROL This is used for free-motion work. It drops feed below needle plate, so you control the feeding of the fabric. At present there are sewing machines available with advance technology. No error threading process, surefit bobbin and stay bright led light are some features available in the machine. Quilting, embroidery, button holing, button stitching, zip attachment, zigzag stitching can be done in a very easy manner.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE SEWING MACHINE BALANCE WHEEL STOP MOTION This device allows the balance wheel to run free, so that bobbins may be wound and the correct method of threading acquired, without operating the stitching mechanism. To loosen the wheel, hold it with the left hand and with the right hand turn the stop motion screw round towards you.

32 TO OPERATE THE TREADLE MACHINE After loosening the balance wheel, place both feet upon the treadle and run the balance wheel round towards you, at the same time allow the feet to move freely and lightly with the motion of the treadle. Continue to do this until a regular and easy movement is acquired and you are able to work the treadle so that you can re-start the machine without the balance wheel turning in the wrong direction. When familiar with the working movement, tighten the balance wheel by turning the stop motion screw away from you, and place a piece of material under the pressure foot. Lower the latter by means of the lifter and again work the machine, without its being threaded, until you are accustomed to guiding the material. TO OPERATE MULTI FUNCTIONAL MACHINE WITH ELECTRIC MOTOR Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and frequency indicated on the motor are within the range of marked on the electric meter installed by your company. Push the machine plug into the receptacle at the right end of the machine. Then connect the power-line plug to your electrical outlet. To start the machine press, the pedal of the speed controller slowly. In the beginning don’t press much, because gradually you can control the speed of the machine by practicing. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew. TO SET THE NEEDLE Raise the needle bar to its highest point and loosen the thumb screw. Hold the needle with the left hand and, with its flat side to the right, insert it into the needle clamp as far as it will go, then re-tighten the thumb screw.

TO SET THE NEEDLE TO THREAD THE NEEDLE Turn the balance wheel until the lever is at its highest. Place a reel of thread on the spool pin (1) on top of the machine and pass the thread through the notch (2), downward between the tension discs (3 & 4) from the back up over the thread guard from behind, into the loop of the spring, up and through the hole in the end of the lever (5) from the back, down into the guide (6), and from left to right through the eye of the needle (7). Draw about three inches of thread through the eye of the needle with which to commence sewing.

33

TO THREAD THE NEEDLE TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE AND BOBBIN Turn the Balance Wheel towards you until the take-up lever is at its highest point. Draw opens the slide in the bed of the machine and, with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, opens the latch and withdraws the Bobbin Case. While the latch is held open, the bobbin is retained in its case. On releasing the latch and turning the case downward the bobbin will drop out.

REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE TO WIND THE BOBBIN Loosen the Balance Wheel and place a reel of thread on the lower spool pin. Pass the thread under the Bobbin Winder Tension Bracket and onto the bobbin, placed on the Bobbin Winder Spindle. Now pass the thread through a hole in the left disc of the bobbin from the inside. Press the lever where marked, Hold the free end of the thread, and proceed to wind. Then after a few turns of the Balance Wheel, Break off the end of the thread and again operate the machine as when sewing, until the bobbin is filled. The winder stops automatically when the bobbin is full.

TO WIND THE BOBBIN TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE Hold the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand with the thread leading from the right to left, as shown in Fig. With the left hand hold the bobbin case and place the bobbin into it. With the right hand draw the thread into the slit down in the edge of the Bobbin Case as shown in Fig.

STEP-1

STEP-2

STEP-3

34

TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE TO REPLACE THE BOBBIN CASE After threading the bobbin case, hold its latch between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and, with its position finger opposite the notch at the top of the shuttle race, replace it on the centre stud of the shuttle. Then release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch catches the groove near the end of the stud. Allow the end of the thread to hang free and close the slide in the machine bed.

TO PREPARE FOR SEWING With the left hand hold the end of the needle thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle. Turn the balance wheel over towards you for the needle to move down and up again to its highest point. Pull the thread that you are holding and the under thread will brought up with through the hole in the throat plate. Place both ends of thread under and to the back of the pressure foot.

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD TO COMMENCE SEWING Place the material to be sewn beneath foot, lower the latter and commence sewing by turning the balance wheel round towards you. TO REMOVE THE MATERIAL Raise the take-up lever to its highest and lift the presser foot. Move the material back and to the left and sever the threads by passing them over the thread cutter above the presser foot. Leave a few inches of thread under and at the back of the presser foot. TO REGULATE THE TENSIONS For ordinary stitching, the tension on the upper and under threads should be equal so as to interlock both threads in the centre of the work. If either tension is stronger than the other, imperfect stitching will be the result, thus (a) Fine fabrics require a light tension, while heavy materials want more tension to obtain a perfect a stitch. (b) The tension on the needle thread should be regulated only when the presser foot is down. (c) A correct stitch can usually be obtained by varying the tension on the needle thread. (d) Always

35 use thread with corresponding size of needle. (e) The length of stitch can be altered by loosening the thumb screw and moving it upwards to lengthen, or downwards to shorten the stitch. Then tighten the screw. TO CHANGE THE PRESSURE ON MATERIAL For ordinary family sewing it is seldom necessary to change the pressure on the material. If sewing fine silk or flimsy material, relieve the pressure by giving the thumb screw two or three turns upwards. To increase the pressure gives the thumb screw a few twists downwards.

MACHINE FAULTS AND RECTIFICATION MACHINE WORKING HEAVILY If the machine runs hard after being idle, oil with paraffin. Then run rapidly, wipe clean and oil with sewing machine oil. THE BELT The belt should be only just tight enough not to slip. If too loose, shorten and rejoin. NEEDLE BREAKING Check that the needle is not bent, the upper tension is not too tight, and the pressure foot or attachments are securely fastened. Avoid pulling the material and do not sew heavy seams or thick goods with too fine a needle. THREAD BREAKING If the needle breaks, check that (i) The machine is properly threaded (ii) The upper tension is not too tight (iii) The needle is not bent, blunt or set correctly (iv) The thread is not too coarse for the needle (v) The thread take-up spring is not broken. If the under thread break, loosen the under tension and see that the bobbin case and the area under the tension spring are free from fluff. Always follow the booklet with the machine for the correct size of needle for the various types of fabrics. SKIPPING OF STITCHES Check that the needle is correctly set, is not blunt, bent or too fine for the thread. STITCHING LOOPING Check that the spring is not broken, that the upper and under tensions are equal, that both bobbin case and the needle are properly threaded, that the thread is of good quality and of correct size for the needle. MATERIAL PUCKERING See the both tensions are equal and needle point is not bent.

CLEANING AND OILING THE MACHINE To ensure smooth running, it is essential that the machine be cleaned at frequent intervals and oiled regularly at all points of the Arm and the Bed where lubrication is required. For cleaning, use kerosene and a small stiff brush, and soft clean rags for wiping the machine. For oiling, use branded good machine oil. Never use vegetable oils since these clog the machine. Squirt oil freely into all oil holes and wherever one surface rubs against or turns within another. Never oil the tensions. Run the machine to work the oil thoroughly into all the bearings. When the oiling is completed, wipe all the excess oil from all parts of the machine. This excess oil collects dust. And too much oil on the shuttle race or needle can cause skipped stitches. Regular oiling is must for the smooth running of sewing machine. For later oiling, one drop of oil in each bearing and oil hole is enough. It is a good practice to oil the machine after each day’s work or after 8 to 10 hours of use. Oil occasionally, whether the machine is used or not, to keep the oil from drying and gumming.

36

RELATIVE SIZES OF NEEDLES FOR DIFFERENT FABRICS SIZES OF NEEDLE No. 9 No.11 No.14 No.16 No.18 No.19 or 21

TYPES OF FABRICS very thin silk, muslin, cambric, light weight delicate fabrics. fine calicos, linens, shirtings, fine silk. shirting’s, sheeting’s, bleached calicos, silk and general domestic goods, light Woolen goods and all classes of general work. All kinds of heavy calicos, drill, woolen goods etc. tacking, heavy woolens, trousers, boy’s clothing, corsets, cloaks mantis, Heavy coats and heavy clothing generally. Bags, coarse cloths, canvas, duck, heavy goods of any texture.

37

CHAPTER 6 NECESSARY EUIPMENT FOR SEWING AND ABOUT FABRICS To stitch any garment some necessary equipment are needed to obtain good result. Before starting to cut and stitch any dress you should check that all the necessary tools and equipments are available or not. SEWING MACHINE There are so many models of sewing machines are available in the market. Always purchase that sewing machine which is suitable for your requirement, usage and convenient to operate. MEASURING TAPE In measuring tape both inches and centimeter, marks are given so can be used according to convenience. Measuring tape is used to measure the fabric and the body measurement.

TAILOR’S CHALK Marking chalks is available in different color so that marking with contrast color of chalk is visible easily. This chalk is to mark on the fabric according to dress pattern, darts and seam lines.

RULERS To draw vertical or horizontal lines, rulers are useful. Curved ruler is to shape for trouser and skirts.

PINS Pins are useful to place paper pattern on fabric so that marking becomes easy.

PIN CUSHIONS Pin cushions can be made at home by soft fabric and filling with soft stuff. Pin cushions are very necessary to avoid pins to poke and keep away from children.

38 SCISSORS There are tailor’s scissors are available in market. Light weight, pointed and sharp scissor is good for fabric cutting.

CLIPPERS Clippers are used for clipping threads and for making notches or slashes on the fabric.

AWL It is a small, sharp and pointed tool used to punch small, rounded holes for making on paper or leather. SEAM RIPPERS Seam rippers are for picking seams and to cut buttonholes. COLOURED PENCILS Coloured pencils are used to mark darts and shapes as marking with chalk goes off easily.

MACHINE NEEDLES Machine needle of various sizes, are necessary to use according to different types of fabrics.

MACHINE THREADS Cotton threads are suitable for different kind of fabrics. The weight of the fabric determines the size of the thread to be used. For terry cotton and other synthetic fabrics, spun polyester thread may be used. When a perfect match of thread is not available, a darker shade should be used.

HAND SEWING NEEDLE There are many varieties of hand needle having a different use. Crewels are embroidery needles. Sharps are shorter than embroidery needles and are used for normal hand sewing. Betweens and Blunts are shorter than sharps and used by tailors to do fine work on heavy fabrics. Straws or Milliners are longer

39 than sharps and are used for darning or basting. Tapestry Needle is thick, with large eyes and rounded tips and is used to embroider with wool. Chenille is the same as the tapestry needle except that the tip is pointed. This is used for doing heavy embroidery work on closely woven fabric. Bodkins are large needles with large eyes and are used for threading elastic or ribbon through casings. The rounded tip is used for pushing out the stitched corners of collars. An ideal needle size for hand sewing is Pony-Crewel No. 9 because of its length and fineness. It has a large eye for easy threading.

THIMBLE The thimble is worn on the middle finger and is used to protect the finger while pushing the needle through thick fabrics. Metal thimbles are ideal.

TRACING WHEEL Tracing wheel is used to trace the marks of darts and seam at correct place. Place the carbon paper in between the paper pattern and fabric and run tracing wheels over the markings to get marking on fabric.

FRENCH CURVES French curves are used to draw curves while drafting designs. They are made of plastic and are available in different sizes.

IRON A good light weight iron is preferred to remove wrinkles on fabric before cutting.

40

KNOWLEDGE OF FABRICS Fabrics are essential as other necessities of life. These are used in every moment of our life. Simultaneously, these serve various purposes, like comfort, design, style, warmth and of course cover. There are varieties of fabrics available with different characteristics. The characteristics of fabric depend upon the type of fiber, thickness, weaves and finishes applied. There are some fabrics natural or synthetics. Natural fabrics are those which are created from the fibers of animal’s coats, the cocoons of silkworms, and plants seeds, leaves and stems. It is breathable and never causes rashes apart from being soft and durable. Natural fabric is the best choice for everyone. It does not change color from Ultra Violet light and there is no warming until the material looses its tensile strength. Common natural fabrics are cotton, silk, wool, leather, hemp, coir, jute and linen. COTTON It is versatile with natural comfort and durability. The use of cotton fabric dates back to 3000 B.C. It is used as garments, home furnishing, and industrial cloths. It is soft with good strength and drapes well. Fabrics made of cotton have a cool, soft and comfortable feel. SILK It is a high grade fabric with weather fabric quality. It is used as expensive dresses and home furnishings. The fabric made of silk will have a soft and smooth feel to it. The various textures of silk fabrics can range between slight crinkled texture, crepe like texture, natural colored, textured silk, lustrous shine with creepy texture and many more. Silk discovered in China during 2640 B C and is still the leading producer in the world. WOOL Wool means warmth, softness and strength. It is resistant to wrinkle dirt and wear and tear. Wool as a clothing was discovered some twelve thousand years ago. Today, it is obtained from sheep, goat, Angora goat and Angora rabbit and camel. The wool fabrics can range between fuzzy or hard texture or interwoven with silver dyed multi color yarns which give the fabric lustrous finish. LEATHER Leather is firm, soft, elastic and weather friendly. Commercially it is obtained from cattle, calf, goat, sheep, lamb, horse, pig, kangaroo, deer, reptile, seal and walrus. The major exporters of goatskin leather in the world are India, China and Pakistan. Leather is an elegant and expensive fabric and the texture of it makes each and every fabric unique and fashionable item. Due to their shiny and polished look they are highly demanded fabrics. HEMP The warmth, softness and durability of hemp fabric are rarely found in any other fabrics. It is very versatile with UV protective and insulative quality. It is used as apparel, accessories, shoes, furniture, and home furnishing. It is obtained from stems of plant. The finest comes from Italy and the leading producer is China. COIR It is known for its resilience and durable quality. It is the perfect fabric for controlling soil erosion. In horticulture, coir fabric is used as a substitute for peat because it is bacteria free and free from fungal spores. It is an environmental friendly fabric and fully biodegradable. JUTE It is eco-friendly with good strength and durability. It is widely used as bags and sacks. Fashionable cloths, home furnishing and fashion accessories are some of the innovation of jute. India is leading jute manufacturer in the world.

41 LINEN It is the fabric of luxury. Lustrous, beautiful and elegant are some of qualities of it. It is antibacterial and antifungal with a property of UV protection. It is being used for more than 10,000 years. Egyptians made extensive use of linen. It is obtained from flax plant.

SYNTHETIC FABRICS Synthetic fabric made from chemicals, changed the textile industry. These fabrics are made from fibers which are either completely made from inorganic materials or organic materials combined with chemicals. Synthetic fabrics have numerous properties with the purpose for which it is produces and finished. Some are light weight with ultra sheer while others are moisture wicking and fast dying. Few are very luxurious to imitate some other natural fabrics some are very strong and tough. Many synthetic fabrics have found their way into trendy fashion garments. These fabrics come in brighter color and are more economical. In industrial uses, synthetic fabrics have taken its place. They have replaced traditional materials from super-absorbent diapers to artificial organs. Engineered non-woven fabrics are also found in surgical applications like gowns and apparel interfacing. Man made fibers for fabrics was first experimented in the late 1800s. Du Pont, a chemist, discovered laboratory-synthesizes fiber, nylon. He transformed common materials like coal, air and water into fibers whose qualities were far better than natural fibers. ACETATE It is an imitation of silk and can withstand mildew, pilling and shrinking. ACRYLIC It is an imitation of wool and is resistant to wearing, wrinkling, soiling and fading. NYLON It is the strongest upholstery fabric and it does not soil or wrinkle. LATEX It has high water proofing and dry cleaning property. It is resistant to heat and light. POLYSTER It is used for upholstery and is blended with other fibers to add wrinkle resistant. It eliminates crushing of napped fabrics and reduces fading. RAYON It imitates silk, linen, and cotton and is durable. SPANDEX It is known for its shape retention quality and is resistant to dry heat and oil. It is light weight with comfort and flexibility. There are so many other characteristics of the fabrics, which makes the differences, such as weaves, finish and design etc. Fabric weave is the pattern of weave or structure given to the fabric. It is an ancient textile art and craft, which places two, threads or yarn onto a warp and weft of a loom to produce a cloth. The woven cloth can be plain, in a single color or in a single pattern, or it may be woven in decorative or artistic designs. The simple weave is usually done on a dobby looms where as the complicated patterns are done on the jacquard looms. Plain, satin, twill, basket, jacquard and rib are the types of weaves in the fabrics. Fabric finish is done according to the need and purpose of the fabric. With the type of finish, fabric enhances its quality. The fabric gets additional properties with the finish. After finishing fabric becomes smoother, wrinkle free, can speed moisture evaporation, flame retardant, soft and adds body to fabric without adding stiffness. There are different types of finishes for the fabrics like, coated, felted, handmade, knitted, non-woven, stitched and woven. Design in a fabric reflects the craftsmanship as well as the customs or culture of the wearer. It varies from small geometrical pattern to batik, dyed, embroidered, painted and print.

42

CHAPTER 7 BODY MEASUREMENT AND TABLE To sew a garment for a particular person, body measurement is required. Body measurement should be taken correctly for the correct fitting of a dress. Some measurements are to be taken lengthwise and some are on girth, or widthwise. Which part of the body measurement should be taken depends upon the kind of a garment. Measuring tape is the only tool which helps to take the measurement of a body in inches or in centimeters, because these measurements are written on the both sides of a tape. In below figure division of inch has given.

1- The length measurement for the garment wearing above the waist should take from the neck point to upper waist or middle waist or lower waist or as per the style of the garment. 2- Apex point of bust measurement and front neck length measurement also should take from the neck point. 3- For leg wearing garments such as shorts, skirts and trousers, length measurement is required from waist to thigh, above knee, knee length, lower knee length or ankle length. 4- Some garments require full length of the body such as, gown, night suit etc. 5- Sleeve length measurement should be taken from highest point of shoulder to short arm length, middle arm length, elbow length, below elbow length or wrist length.

There is some girth measurements should be taken for the various garments. 1 Shoulder width, on highest point of one arm to other. 2 Neck girth, around the neck. 3 Chest measure, under the arms above the fullest part of the bust. 4 Bust measurement is the fullest part of the bust. Make sure the tape is straight across the back. 5 Waist girth, there are different measurements for upper, middle and lower waist. 6 Hip around, measure around the highest part of the hip. 7 Middle waist measurement, or may be abdomen around for some persons. 8 Thigh girth measurement for trouser. 9 Around knee measurement at the highest part of the knee. 10 On ankle is the measurement for the bottom of the trouser.

43 11 Arm girth measurement on fullness of the arm. 12 Around elbow for the sleeves down to elbow length. 13 Wrist circumference varies from loose to tight or style of the garment.

Always keep in mind that takes measurement correctly because allowances for comfort and seam can be added in pattern making. Human figures have different figures and measurements vary from person to person. For example, children’s figure is different from each other of same age group. Likewise a man or a woman can be tall or short, fat or thin. Some girth or width measurements can be calculated from chest or bust size for upper waist wear garments and some measurements can be calculated from hip size for lower waist wear garments. GIRTH MEASUREMENTS NECK = 1/3rd of bust + 2” to 2:5” WAIST = Bust-5” to 7” SEAT = Bust + 2” to 4” HALF SHOULDER = 1/6th of Bust + 1:5” to 2” FOR TROUSER SEAT = Chest + 1” or 2” WAIST = Seat – 6” BOTTOM = ½ seat – 1” or 2” While taking the measurement of a person he or she should stand straight and hold the measuring tape correctly. Take the measurement of any particular area may be length, width or girth of the body correctly. One should know the required measurement for the particular garment. For the infants and children’s measurement, measurement chart can be followed. Below is the standard measurement table given as per age for infant, children, women and men? The average body measurements for Babies, Children, Misses, Women and Men, given here are based on the National Bureau of Standards. These measurements will help you plan garment sizes. Be sure to add

44 ease to make sure that the garment fits comfortably. The measurements are given in inches with centimeters in parentheses. Size

Newborn Six Months Twelve Months

Chest

to 18 (45.5)

to 20 (51)

to 22 (56)

Waist

18 (45.5)

19 (48)

20 (51)

Hip

19 (48)

20 (51)

21 (53.5)

Back length

6 1/8 (15.5)

6 7/8 (17.5)

7 1/2 (19)

Back width

7 1/4 (18.5)

7 3/4 (19.5)

8 1/4 (21)

One shoulder

2 (5)

2 1/4 (5.5)

2 1/2 (6.5)

Waist to underarm

3 (7.5)

3 3/8 (8.50

3 3/4 (9.5)

Wrist to underarm

6 (15.5)

6 1/2 (16.5)

7 1/2 (19)

Armhole depth

3 1/4 (8)

3 1/2 (9)

3 3/4 (9.5)

Upper arm circumference

6 1/2 (16.5)

7 (18)

7 1/4 (18.5)

Wrist circumference

5 (12.5)

5 1/8 (13)

5 1/8 (13)

Head circumference

15 (38)

15 (38)

16 (40.5)

Children Size

2

4

6

8

10

12

Chest

21 23 25 27 28 1/2 30 (53.5) (58.5) (63.5) (68.5) (72.5) (79)

Waist

20 (51)

21 22 (53.5) (56)

23 24 (58.5) (61)

25 (63.5)

Hip

22 (56)

24 (61)

28 (71)

32 (81.5)

Back length

8 1/2 9 1/2

26 (66)

30 (79)

10 1/2 12 1/2 14

15

45 (21.5) (24)

(26.5) (31.5) (35.5) (38)

Back width

8 3/4 9 1/2 (22) (24)

10 1/4 11 (26) (28)

11 1/2 12 (29) (30.5)

One shoulder

2 3/4 3 (7) (7.5)

3 3/8 3 5/8 (8.5) (9)

3 3/4 (9.5)

4 (10)

Waist to underarm

4 (10)

4 1/2 (11)

7 1/2 (19)

8 (20.5)

Wrist to underarm

8 1/2 10 1/2 11 1/2 12 1/2 13 1/2 15 (21.5) (26.5) (29) (31.5) (34.5) (38)

Armhole depth

4 1/4 5 1/2 (11) (14)

Upper arm circumference

7 1/2 8 8 1/2 9 (19) (20.5) (21.5) (23)

Wrist circumference

5 1/4 5 1/2 (13.5) (14)

4 (10)

6 1/4 (16)

6 6 1/4 (15.5) (16)

6 1/2 7 (16.5) (17.5) 9 3/8 (24)

5 1/2 5 3/4 6 (14) (14.5) (15)

9¾ (24.5) 6 (15)

Misses Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

Bust

36 38 30 1/2 31 1/2 32 1/2 34 (77.5) (80) (82.5) (86.5) (91.5) (96.5)

40 (101.5)

Waist

24 23 (58.5) (61)

32 (81.5)

Hip

32 33 1/2 34 1/2 36 38 40 42 (82.5) (85) (87.5) (91.5) (96.5) (101.5)) (106.5)

Back length

16 1/4 16 1/2 16 3/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 16 (39.5) (40) (40.5) (41) (42) (42.5)

17 (43)

Back width

14 1/2 15 13 1/2 13 1/2 14 (34) (34) (35.5) (37) (38)

15 1/2 (39.5)

16 (40.5)

One shoulder

4 3/4 4 3/4 (12) (12)

5 5 5 5 1/4 (12.5) (12.5) (12.5) (13.5)

5¼ (13.5)

Waist to underarm

8 1/2 8 3/4 (21.5) (22)

8 3/4 8 3/4 (22) (22)

9 (23)

Wrist to underarm

16 3/4 16 3/4 17 (42.5) (42.5) (43)

17 1/2 17 3/4 18 (44.5) (45) (45.5)

18 ¼ (46.5)

Armhole depth

7 (18)

7 1/2 7 1/2 8 (19) (19) (20.5)

8 (20.5)

Upper arm circumference

9 3/4 9 3/4 10 1/4 10 1/2 11 (24.5) (24.5 ) (26) (26.5) (28)

7 (18)

25 26 1/2 28 (63.5) (67) (61)

7 1/2 (19)

30 (76)

8 3/4 8 3/4 (22) (22)

11 1/5 (29)

1230.5 (28)

46 6 (15)

Wrist circumference

6 (15)

6 1/4 (16)

6 1/4 6 1/2 6 1/2 (16) (16.5) (16.5)

6½ (16.5)

Women Size

38

40

42

44

46

48

Bust

42 44 46 48 (106.5) (112) (117) (122)

Waist

35 (89)

37 (94)

Hip

44 (112)

46 48 50 (117) (122) (127)

Back length

17 1/2 17 3/8 17 1/2 17 5/8 17 3/4 17 7/8 18 (44) (44) (44.5) (44.5) (45) (45.5) (45.5)

Back width

16 1/2 17 (42) (43)

17 1/2 18 (44) (45.5)

18 18 1/2 18 ½ (45.5) (47) (47)

One shoulder

5 1/2 (14)

5 1/2 (14)

5 3/4 5 3/4 (14.5) (14.5)

6 6 1/4 (15.5) (16)

Waist to underarm

9 (23)

9 (23)

9 1/4 9 1/4 (23.5) (23.5)

9 3/8 (24)

Wrist to underarm

18 1/4 18 1/4 18 1/4 18 1/4 18 1/4 18 1/4 18 ¼ (46) (46) (46) (46) (46) (46) (46)

Armhole depth

8 1/4 (21)

8 1/4 (21)

Upper arm circumference

13 (33)

13 1/2 14 15 (34.5) (35.5) (38)

15 3/4 16 1/2 17 (40) (42) (43)

Wrist circumference

6 1/4 (17)

7 7 1/4 7 1/2 (17.5) (18.5) (19)

7 3/4 8 8 (19.5) (20.5) (20.5)

39 (99)

50 52 54 (127) (132) (137)

41 1/2 44 46 1/2 49 (105.5) (112) (118) (124.5)

8 1/4 (21)

8 1/2 (21.5)

52 54 56 (132) (137) (142)

6¼ (16)

9 1/2 9 ¾ (24) (24.5)

8 1/2 8 3/4 (21.5) (22)

8¾ (22)

Men Size

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

Chest

34 36 38 40 42 (86.5) (91.5) (96.5) (102) (107)

44 46 (112) (117)

48 (122)

Waist

28 (71)

30 (76)

32 (81)

34 36 (86.5) (91.5)

39 (99)

44 (112)

Hip

35 (89)

37 (94)

39 (99)

41 45 47 49 43(109) (104) (114) (119.5) (124.5)

Back length

22 (56)

23 24 (58.5) (61)

25 26 (63.5) (66)

26 1/2

42 (107)

27 ½ (70)

28 1/2 (72.5)

47 (67.5) Back width

15 16 16 1/2 1/4 (40.5) (39.5) (42)

One shoulder Wrist to underarm

18 ½ 18 (45.5) (47)

19 (48)

5 5 1/4 5 1/2 5 1/2 5 1/2 (12.5) (13) (14) (14) (14)

6 (15)

6 (15)

6 (15)

17 18 1/2 (46) (44.5)

18 1/2 (47)

19 (48)

19 1/2 (49.5)

20 (51)

20 (51)

20 1/2 (52)

Waist to underarm

14 (35)

14 1/2 (37)

15 (38)

15 1/2 (39)

16 (40.5)

16 16 ½ (40.5) (42)

17 (43)

Armhole depth

8 (20)

8 1/2 9 (21.5) (23)

10 11 1/2 (28) (26.5)

11 1/2 (29)

Upper arm circumference

13 (33)

14 13 14 1/2 1/2 (35.5) (34.5) (37)

15 1/2 (39.5)

16 16 ½ (40.5) (42)

17 (43)

Wrist circumference

6 1/4 6 1/2 6 3/4 7 (16) (16.5) (17) (18)

7 1/4 (18.5)

7 1/2 7 ¾ 8 (19) (19.5) (20.5)

17 (43)

17 1/2 (44.5)

9 1/2 10 (24) (25.5)

48

CHAPTER 8 DRAFTING Drafting is a method to draw the pattern of a garment with a measurement, on a paper. Drafting involves many steps. The most important step is taking the correct measurement. Before drafting any pattern of a garment basic bodice drafting is necessary. Bodice paper draft helps to adopt various patterns. A sharp pointed and dark pencil, good eraser, a French curve for armholes and necklines, measuring tape and paper sheets are the important thing required for drafting.

FRONT BODICE BLOCK

0-1 = Draw a straight line as the length measurement of the bodice; shoulder to waist. 0-2 = Mark a point down to 0 for front neck length measurement 1/12th of bust + 1 to 1 ½”. 0-3 = Draw a horizontal line as the width of the bodice block, 1/4th of the bust. 3-4 = Draw a straight line, armhole length + side seam length. Join 4-1 as per shape. 3-5 = Mark a point on the line 3-4, 1/4th bust for the armhole length. 4-5 = Side seam line, full bodice length – armhole length. 0-6 = Mark a point on horizontal line 0-3, ½ of shoulder width. 6-7 = 1 ¼” down for the shoulder slop shape. Draw a straight line 6-7-8. Join 5-8. 6-9 = 1” for the armhole depth shape. Draw a straight line 9-10. 8-11 = ¾” out side mark a point for armhole shape. Join 7-10-11-5. Draw a smooth shape on 7-10 and 10-11. Join 8-4. 0-12 = Mark a point 1/12th bust for the neck width. 2-13 = Mark a point for the neck shape width for front. Join 12-13. Mark a ¾”on 13, on cross and draw a curved neck shape. Join 7-12, which is the slope of the shoulder. 0-14 = Mark a point with the measurement of 1/4th bust + 1” as the apex point of the bust. 14-15 = 3 ¾” a horizontal line for the dart point. 16-17 = width of the bodice – 1/4th of the waist for the width of the dart. Draw dart shape on 15-16-17. Neck shape, armhole shape can be done with the help of the french curve.

49

BACK BODICE BLOCK

0-1 = Draw a straight line as per the length measurement of the bodice same as in front bodice block. 0-2 = Mark a point 1/12th of bust – ½” for the back neck length. 0-3 = Horizontally, 1/4th bust is the width measurement of the bodice block. 3-4 = Same as 0-1 1-4 = Same as 0-3. Draw a rectangle 0-1-4-3 3-5 = Armhole length measurement, as per front part. 0-6 = horizontally, ½ of shoulder width. 6-7 = 1 ¼” down for shoulder shape. 6-7-8 = Draw a straight line as armhole length. 6-9 = ½” for the armhole shape. 9-10 = Draw a straight line. 8-11 = ½” cross to draw armhole shape on 7-10-11-5. 0-12 = 1 1/12th bust for the neck width. Draw a curve shape for back neck. Join 7-12. 0-13 = ¼ bust + 1” is the apex point of bust for dart. 13 -14 = 3 ¾” 15 -16 = Width of the dart. More than 1/4th waist measurement will convert into dart width. Draw dart on 15-16-14. Draw shape of neck and armhole with the help of french curve. There is no seam allowance added in basic bodice draft. Basic bodice draft is helpful to adopt any pattern of dress of different sizes. Before cutting the paper pattern of garment, check again the measurement and pieces of the garment. Cut all the pattern pieces carefully. After cutting the pattern of paper, mark important symbols such as fold, dart, curve etc.

Child’s Body Block 0-1 = From neck point to waist is the length of the bodice. 2-3 = Same as 0-1. 0-4 and 2-4 = each 1/4th of chest. Draw a straight line 4-5. This line divides the front and back bodice. 0-6 = 1/4th of chest is the armhole length for both the parts.

50

4-7 = 1/12th chest for the neck width for both the parts. 4-8 = neck length ½ to ¾”for the back and 1/12th chest for front. Draw a rectangle shape by matching two points 7and 8 and then draw curved shape on neck with the help of the french curve. 4-9 = ½ shoulder width for both the parts. 9-10 = ¾” down for the shoulder shape. Join 7-10. Extend 9-10 up to 6 point. Draw a narrow rectangle on both the part on 9-10 and 6. Draw front and back armhole shape with the help of the french curve. 1-11 and 3-11 = 1” inside. Join 6-11. Cut the bodice block and separate front and back parts. Remember there is no seam allowance added in this bodice block. This bodice block can be used to adopt any pattern design of garment.

To draw neck and armhole shapes with the help of French curve NECK SHAPE Measure 0-1 as required neck length and mark the point. Measure 0-2 as the width of the neck and mark the point. Extend the point 1 inside and 2 downward and name the meeting point as 3. Mark 4 as the center point of 1-3 and 5 as the center point of 2-3. Now place French curve by matching point 4-5-2 to draw curve shape. How to draw different types of curves for neck shapes has given in page no. 10.

ARMHOLE SHAPES Measure 0-6 as the armhole length and 6-7 is 1/4th of chest + required ease + seam allowance according to the design of the garment. Measure 0-8 ½ of shoulder width + ¼” and mark the point. Measure 8-9 ½” down for shoulder drape or shape. Join 2-9. Extend 8-9 up to 10 as a straight line on 6-7. Mark 11 as the center point of 7-10 and 12 as the center point of 8-10. Place French curve by matching 12-11-7 to draw back armhole shape. Measure ½” inside from point 12-13 and mark the point. Place French curve by matching 9-13-11-7 points to draw front armhole shape.

Layout plan Placing of paper pattern on the fabric is called layout plan. Some parts of the pattern should place on length wise, some on width and some on bias. Check the pattern diagram according to the size, version of design and width of the fabric.

51

LAYOUT PLAN OF HALF-SHIRT ON OPEN FABRIC

LAYOUT PLAN OF SAREE BLOUSE ON FOLD FABRIC

LAYOUT PLAN FOR LADIES KURTA AND UMBRELLA FROCK In drafting always remember about fold area. On length there is fold for either front or back part, or there is opening for buttoning on front or back. On sleeves length is on fold and the other side is armhole shape. Follow all the rules of drafting for the correct garment. Spread the fabric on table to layout the garment pattern. Turn the right side of the fabric to the inside so that markings can be made on the wrong side. Pin the layers together along their edges. Keep grain line marking on pattern parallel to selvage or fold. Hold grain line in place with pins.

52 Place pattern pieces on the fabric and pin along fold lines carefully matching fold line of pattern to fold line of fabric. Use enough pins to keep pattern from slipping. Check all the pattern pieces making sure to include each one. Make a trial layout by placing pattern pieces, check and then go ahead to cut. When laying out strips, plan for centre of a stripe or plaid to fall exactly down centre back of a garment. Strips will match if notches of corresponding pattern pieces are placed exactly on same colours and bars of the fabric. Pockets, collars and cuffs can be cut on bias, if is difficult to match. PREPARATION OF FABRIC BEFORE CUTTING Before cutting, fabric preparation is must. Fabric should be ironed properly to remove wrinkles of fabric. Pre-wash the fabric with starch to remove the stiffness and to avoid shrinkage. Cotton fabrics and handloom fabrics must pre-wash before cutting to avoid shrinkage. Inner lining fabrics should always wash before cutting. Before placing the paper pattern of any garment fabric fold is necessary. Always follow the fold on fabric according to pattern of the garment. For children’s garment there is opening in one side, either on front or in back, so other part will be on fold. On ladies kurta front and back can cut together on double fold of the fabric, means four layer of fabric. Always cut sleeves on length wise of the fabric. Collar will be on the length and waist belts will be on the width of the fabric. Be careful while cutting on the fabric with one side headed prints or with checks. Mark seam line and darts on pattern clearly. Some parts need extra care to attach with body. Pockets, collars, sleeves and waist belt attachments require tacking with hand needle and then machining. Follow all the rules of making pattern, layout plan, cutting the fabric and sewing method to get desired garment. Fabric estimation for any garment is double the length + one sleeve length + 10”.

53

CHAPTER 9 EASY SEWING ITEMS PILLOW COVER Length and width depends upon the size of the pillow. PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (ONE SIDE PART) 0-1 and 2-3 is the total length of the pillow + 1” extra for seam allowance. 0-2 and 1-3 is the total width of the pillow + 1” extra for seam allowance. SECOND SIDE PART Place the one side part on the fabric and draw outline. Remove one side part and now mark extension. 0-4,0-5, 1-6,1-7,2-8, 2-9, 3-10 and 3-11 all around mark = double of corner fold measurement. For example if corner fold is 1 ½” then take 3”+ ½” Join all the corners with extended outline as shown in the below figure. 12, 13, 14 and 15 are the corner points. Join 4-5, 6-7, 8-9 and 10-11 and cut these corners to fold and stitch. ONE SIDE INNER PART 0-1 and 2-3 = 5” length 0-2 and 1-3 = width same as 0-2 of one side part.

SEWING INSTRUCTION Fold one side edges of the one side part and one side inner part and stitch. Match the corners of 4-5, 6-7, 8-9 and 10-11and stitch on wrong side. Press the seam and fold the corners. Spread second side part on the table by keeping wrong side on top. Now place one side inner part on that by matching unstitched edge of 0-2. Now on the top place one side part by matching 1-3 and fold the corners of the 4, 6, 7, 11, 10, 8, 9 and 5 and fix alpines. Machine with a single stitch and after set the closed zigzag stitch and stitch on previous plain stitch. For frilled edges cut both the parts as one side part. For frills cut the fabric strips four times of length and width. Width of the frill is as per choice. First stitch the frills on one part of the pillow cover and then place one side part and one side inner part and stitch. CUSHION COVER Length and width depends upon the size of the cushion. PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (One Side Part) 0-1 And 2-3 = length of the cushion + ½”. 0-2 and 1-3 = width of the cushion + ½” Second Side Part 0-1 and 2-3 = ½ of length + 3 to 4”

54

0-2 and 1-3 = same as in one side part. Second Side Inner Part 0-1 and 2-3 is 5” and 0-2 & 1-3 is same as 0-2 of any side part. Cut one piece of one side part, one second side part and one second side inner part. If inner lining is there cut one piece of each same as all parts. SEWING INSTRUCTION Fold 0-2 edge of second side part and second side inner part and stitch. Place one side part by keeping right side on top. Place second side part by matching 1-3 and on the top place second side inner part by matching 1-3 with one side parts 0-2 by keeping wrong side on top. Fix with alpines and stitch all the four sides all around. Turn and press the seam. POUCH Sides of the pouch may round or square as per choice. Take a piece of fabric as per the length and width of the required side of pouch. Cut sponge material and lining same as main fabric. Place sponge in between the main fabric and lining and tack with hand needle, or quilting can be done with vertical, horizontal or square stitching lines. Do same for two sides. Join two sides with the quilted main fabric. Stitch zip on two edges at the centre opening. For cylindrical pouch cut two round pieces and stitch a rectangle piece around the round pieces and stitch zip to finish the opening of the pouch.

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (BAG) 0-1 and 2-3 is the total height of the bag and 0-2 & 1-3 is the total width of the bag’s two side parts. For the bottom part width will be the same as side parts but 0-1 & 2-3 is 3” to 3.5”. 4 are the centre point of 0-1 and 5 is the center point of 2-3. Measure 0-6, 1-7, 2-8 and 3-9 by ½” and join with 4 and 5 with shape. Cut according to the shape. Length of the handle part is 15” to 17” and width is 3”. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Join sides of two sides of side parts together on wrong side. Place bottom part at the bottom of the bag and tack with hand needle and then stitch with machine. Fold the handle of the bag and stitch on open.

55

Side part from wrong side. Turn and take out the handle strip from open edge of 0-2 or 1-3 to right side. Place handle at the position and fix with alpines. Stitch in a square shape and X shape for the strength of the handle. Now stitch a zip to finish the opening of the bag.

APRON MEASUREMENTS CHEST MAIN FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure total chest – 10”for length and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½” for width and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0-1-3-2. 0-4 & 2-5 =Measure 1/4th chest and mark the point. Join 4-5. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th chest + 1” and mark the point. 4-7 =Measure same as 0-6. Join 6-7. 7-8 =Measure 1 ½” bias outside and mark the point. Draw a curve shape on 6-8-5.

POCKET 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 1/4th chest for the length of the pocket and mark the point. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 1” less than length for the width of the pocket. Draw a box 0-1-3-2. NECK STRIP 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 12.5” for the length of the strip. 0-2 is on fold so it will be total 25”. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 2” for the width of the strip. WAIST BELT 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 2” for the width of the belt and mark the point. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure ½ chest + 6” and mark the point. Cut one main front part of the apron, one pocket, one neck strip and two waist belt pieces.

56 STITCHING INSTRUCTION Fold the 0-2 of the pocket first by ¼” and second by ½” on wrong side and stitch. Place the pocket at the center of 0-4 by folding the edges of 0-1-3-2 inside and fix with alpines. Stitch on edges. If wish to stitch one more big pocket on center of 1-4, cut same length with double of the width of the small pocket and follow same instruction to stitch. Fold all the edges of the main part on 0-6-8-5-3-1 and stitch. Edges can be finished by bias strip of fabric also. Fold both side edges of the neck strip and waist belt in and fold to stitch. Place one end of the neck strip on 6 and another on the other folded side of 6 and stitch in X shape for strength. Same way stitch two belts on two sides of 5 to finish apron.

CHILDREN’S CLOTHES JANGIA MEASUREMENTS SEAT = as per age LENGTH= 1/3rd of seat + 1”extra + 1:5” for nefa for elastic WIDTH= 1/4th of seat + 1:5”

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 = Measure 1:5” and mark the point fold for elastic. 1-2 =Measure Length of Jangia and draw a straight line 0-1 & 2. 0-3 = Measure width of Jangia 1/4th of seat + 1:5” and mark the point. 3-4-5 = 0-1-2 and 2-5 = 0-3. Draw a block 0-3-5-2. Join 1-4. 4-6 = Measure1/2'” inside and join 3-6. 5-7 =Measure 1/6th of seat and Join 6-7. 2-8 =Measure 1/12th of seat and Join 7-8. 9 = Mark as center point of 7-8. 9-10=Measure 1/2” inside for front shape. Join 8-10-7 with curved shape. Fold the fabric two times to get four layers of fabric. Follow the fold as per draft. First cut the part 3-67-9-8. Separate front and back parts and then cut deep curved shape only for front on 8-10-7. Cut two strips of fabric as per shape of the front and back leg. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS First join two sides of Jangia on 3-6-7. Finish front and back leg open with same of strips of fabric by matching front and back leg shapes. Leg finish can also be done with frills, piping or lace. Fold top part for nefa to insert elastic. Take elastic as 1/3rd of seat and insert.

JHABLA MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size

57 LENGTH = chest – 3” WIDTH = 1/4th of chest + 4” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure length of Jhabla and draw a straight line. 1-2 =Measure 1”and mark for bottom fold. 0-3 =Measure width of Jhabla 1/4th of chest + 4” and mark. 4-5 =Measure same as 1-2. Join 1-4 and 2-5. 3-6 =Measure 1/6th of chest and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest for neck depth. Draw a rectangle on 6-7. 8 =Mark a center point on 7. Draw curve shape on neck with French Curve (see page 50). 3-9 =Measure 1/4th of chest + ½” for arm. 9-10 =Measure 1:5” inside for armhole shape. Join 10-5. Draw a small curve shape on 9-10.

Cut the front and back parts of Jhabla. Cut stripes of same fabric to finish sleeves and neck. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS First join shoulders 3-6. Place the pattern of Jhabla in such a way that on shoulder fold comes like in Jangia on 2-8 area is fold. Finish sleeves part 3-9 with fabric strips and hem. Finish neck part with the same shape of fabric strip. On front part, make a small hole on neck at point 7 and finish it with buttonhole stitch to insert dory. Finish bottom flair with hem. Insert a dory on front neck and tie a knot at the end of the dory.

A-LINE JHABLA MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6” WIDTH = ½ chest + 4” SHOULDER = ½ of chest – 1”

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure full length of Jhabla and mark the point. 0-2 = Measure ½ of chest + 4” for width of the jhabla according to bottom flair.

58 1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 and 2. 0-4 =Measure ½ of shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 4-5 =Measure ¼” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”for neck width and mark the point. Join 4-5. 0-7 =Measure 1:5” for back neck length and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”or 1” for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shapes with the help of the French curve ( see page 50). 0-9 =Measure 1/4th of chest for armhole length and mark the point. 9-10 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 1” for ease + ½” for seam allowance. Join 10-3. 11 is the straight extension line of 4-5. Mark 12 as the center point of 4-11. Draw back armhole shape on 5-12-10 by French Curve. Measure ½” inside on 12-13 and draw front armhole shape by joining 5-13-10 points by French Curve. Cut the same shape of fabric stripes to finish neck and armholes (see page 10). Keep back open for ease and finish with buttoning. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS First finish back opens with buttoning(see page 14). For buttoning cut two straight stripes of same fabric as per the length of the Jhabla + 1:5”extra. One strip width will be 2” and one is 1:5”. Join 2” strip on the left side of the back part. Half fold the strip and machine on top. Join 1:5” strip to other side and totally fold inside and machine or hem. Join front and back shoulder on 3-5. Finish armhole and neck with same shape of fabric strip, turn the strip inside and finish with hem. To decorate the garment armhole and neck finish can be done with piping, frills or lace. Join two sides of A-line jhabla on 8-9. Finish bottom flair with hem.

SUN SUIT MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size WAIST LOOSE = chest – 2” BIB LENGTH = ½ of chest – 2” BIB WIDTH = 1/6 of chest + ½” JANGIA LENGTH = ½ of seat JANGIA WIDTH = 1/4th of chest + 4” for

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (JANGIA) 0-1 =Measure length of the Jangia and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of seat + 1.5” for the width of Jangia 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a block 0-1-2-3. 3-4 =Measure 1/6th of seat for leg open. 1-5 =Measure 1/12th of seat and join 4-5. 6 =Mark a center point of 4-5.

59 6-7 =Measure ½” inside and join 5-7-4 with curve for front leg shape. 2-8 =Measure 4” extra for gathers and mark the point. 4-9 =Same as 2-8. Join 2-8-9-4. BIB 0-1 =Measure length of the bib and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure width of the bib and mark the point. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a block 0-1-2-3. 0-4 and 0-5 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½” for neck length and width and mark the points. Draw curve shape for neck by French Curve (see page 50). 2-6 =Measure 2” and 3” on 3-7. Draw curve shape as shown in Fig. STRAPS 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure ½ chest + 2” for the length of shoulder straps. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/12th of chest for the width of straps. Cut two pieces with 2+2 layers of fabric. BELT 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½” for the length of the belt. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ chest + 1” for the width of the belt. After drafting check the measurements and cut the paper pattern. Place the paper pattern on fabric and mark Jangia front and back with fold on 1-5. Two layers of fabric required for bib, straps and belt. Elastic estimation is 3/4th of seat. SEWING INSTRUCTION Finish the side openings of two sides of Jangia on 8-9 by stitching two 1.25” and wide by 1.5” strips. Stitch narrow strips on front part and wide on back part of the Jangia. Fold narrow strip fully on the wrong side and stitch. Half fold the wide strip and stitch like second figure of B.

Join 1-5 of front and back of jangia together. To finish leg whole of jangia cut the strip of the same shape and place on the right side by matching front and back shape. Stitch and turn to press the seam. Fold the strip on wrong side and stitch to finish. Stitch 5,4,2,7 and 6 of the two layers of bib part from wrong side and turn, Press the seam. Adjust few gathers at the center of the 0-2 of the jangia. Place the bib by matching center point of jangia and tack. Fold the waist belt part and place on waist part of the jangia as shown in below fig. and stitch all together. For the back part same way place the shoulder strap as shown in fig. and on top place the waist

60 belt and stitch all together. For the back part elastic can be inserted for fitting with the measurement of 1/3rd of back waist part. Turn and press the seam. Stitch button holes on shoulder strap and front sides and buttons on bib and back side part to finish the sun suit.

BABY FROCK MEASUREMENT CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest + 4” to 6” YOKE LENGTH = 1/4th of chest + ½” YOKE WIDTH = 1/4th of chest – ½” PUFF SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4th of chest PUFF SLEEVE WIDTH = 1/4th of chest + 2”

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure length of baby frock according to size and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1”and mark for bottom fold and hem. 0-3 and 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest -1/2” for the yoke length and width. 4-5 =Measure ½” down and mark the point for shoulder shape. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½” and mark the point for neck width. Join 5-6. 0-7 =Measure ¾” for back neck length and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”and mark the point for front neck length. Join 5-6. Draw front and back neck shape with the help of French Curve (see page 50). 3-9 =Same as 0-4 Join 4-5-9. 3-10 =Measure ½ of chest + 4” for gathers (can take more for more gathers). 10-11 and 10-12 =Measure and mark 1” for shape. Draw curve shape on 11-12. 9-13=Measure1”upside for armhole shape on yoke and mark the point. 14 =Mark as center point of 3-9 for shape. Join 13-14 for shape PUFF SLEEVE See page no. 22. Cut front and back yoke parts and front and back skirt part. Separate back part in two parts for buttoning. Slash 1” down on centre of the back skirt part for buttoning. Two puff sleeves cut as per draft. Cut cross stripes of fabric to finish neck and straight stripes to finish sleeves bottom. Two straight stripes of fabric of same length, but one of 1” width and one is 1:5” width is required for buttoning. SEWING INSTRUCTION Adjust gathers on front and back skirt as shown in the below figure.

61

Join yoke part on 3-14-13 of front and back skirt. Extend the open of the back on the center of the skirt by 1.5” below. Place narrow stripes and wide strip as shown in below figure and stitch.

Finish buttoning with hem. Finish neck with cross stripes of fabrics. Adjust gathers on puff sleeves at the centre fold on 0-6. Finish sleeves bottom with fabric stripes. Join two puff sleeves with yoke. Hem on bottom flair of skirt part. Stitch buttons on back open part. Neck part and sleeve bottom can be finished with piping or frills or lace for decorative purpose. Either neck can be finished with Peter Pan collar. Cotton fabric is suitable for baby frock, may be plain or printed or can mix n match both.

PRINCESS PETTICOAT MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size or age LENGTH = chest – 2” WIDTH = 1/4th of chest + 4” HALF SHOULDER = 1/6th of chest + 1:5” WAIST LENGTH = ½ of chest + 1:5” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure length of princess petticoat and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure width of the petticoat according to required flair.

1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1 -3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th of chest + ½”for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ of shoulder width and mark the point.

62 5-6 =Measure ½” down and mark the point for shoulder shape 0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½” and mark the point for neck width. 0-8 =Measure 1:5” for back neck length and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½” and mark the point for front neck length. Join 6-7. Draw front and back neck shape by French Curve ( see page 50). 4-10 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 1:5”and mark the point. 0-11 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 10-12 =Draw a straight line. 12-13 =Measure ½” inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-13-3. 3-14 = 1” upside for shape. Draw shape as shown in figure. Draw front and back armhole shape (see page 50). Cut fabric stripes to finish neck and armhole as per shape. SEWING INSTRUCTION Join front and back shoulder on 7-6. Finish neck and armhole shape with fabric stripes, piping or narrow lace. Join sides on 10-12-15-13-14. Finish bottom flair with hem. Cotton fabric with small print is suitable for princess petticoat.

PINAFORE DRESS MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest + 4” to 6” WIDTH = 1/4th of chest + 4” HALF SHOULDER = 1/6th of chest + 1:5” WAIST LENGTH = ½ of chest - 1:5” FULL SLEEVES LENGTH = ½ of chest + 1:5” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (PINAFORE) 0-1 =Measure length of dress and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 4” for width of the pinafore according to the flair width. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure half shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 4-5 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th of chest + 1”for neck width and mark the point. Join 5-6.

0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest + 1”down for both front and back neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shape with French curve ( see page 50). 0-8 =Measure 1/4th of chest + ½” for armhole length and mark the point.

63 8-9 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 1:5”for ease and ½” for seam allowance and mark the point. Join 9-10. Draw front and back armhole shape with French curve ( see page 50). BLOUSE 0-1 =Measure waist length +1/2” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 1” for ease + ½” for seam allowance and mark the point. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure half shoulder + ¼”and mark the point. 4-5 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th of chest for neck width and mark the point. Join 5-6. 0-7 =Measure 1” down for back neck shape and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”down for front neck length and mark the point. For blouse mandarin collar or peter-pan collar can be attached. For collar see the chapter 3. 0-9 =Measure 1/4th of chest for armhole length and mark the point. 9-10 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw front and back armhole shape with French curve ( see page 50) . SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure sleeve length and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of chest for the width of the sleeves and mark the point. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2. 4 =Mark a center point of 0-2. 4-5 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. 6 = Mark a center point of 0-4. 6-7 =Measure ¼” inside and mark the point. 5-8 =Measure 1.25” inside for front armhole shape and mark the point. 2-9 = Same as 2-4. Mark the point. 1-10 =Measure ½ of sleeve bottom girth + ¾” for ease + ½” for seam allowance and mark the point. Join 9-10 as per shape. Join 0-7-5-9 for back armhole shape. Join 7-8-9 for front armhole shape. For pinafore dress plain and printed or two contrasts color of fabric can be used. For pinafore cut front and back parts and cut cross or neck and armhole shape stripes of same fabric. For blouse front or back part can be opened for buttoning. If there is buttoning at front side then show buttons can be highlighted. Cut two straight stripes of fabric as per requirement for buttoning. For neck finishing cut same stripes of fabric as per shape or collar can be attached. To finish sleeves bottom straight stripes of fabric can be used as piping or frills can be attached. SEWING INSTRUCTION (PINAFORE) Join front and back shoulder on 5-6. Finish neck and armhole shape with same shape of fabric stripes and hem. Join two sides on 9-3. To finish bottom flair fold and hem. BLOUSE Finish front or back opening with placket (see page 14). Join front and back shoulders on 5-6. Finish neck with same strip of fabric or with collar. Finish sleeves bottom with hem. Join two sleeves to blouse by matching shoulder. Finish bottom of the blouse with hem. Stitch buttons or hooks to finish opening.

NICKER WITH ELASTIC MEASUREMENT HIP = as per size and age. LENGTH = ½ hip -1” WAIST = 1/4th hip + 1”

64

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT) 0-1 =Measure length of nicker -1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of hip + 2.5” for the width of the nicker and mark the point. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure ½” inside mark a point 4-5 =Measure ¾” down and mark the point. 4-6 =Measure 1/4th of hip + 1” and mark the point. 6-7 =Same as 4-5. Mark the point. Join 5-7. 8 =Mark as the center point of 4-5 for dart. 0-8 =Measure 1/3rd of hip – 1” and mark the point. 8-9 =Same as 0-2 total width of the nicker. Draw 8-9 as a straight line. 6-10 =Draw a straight line on 8-9. 11 =Mark as the center point of 6-10. Draw curve shape on 11-9 with French Curve. 1-12 =Measure 1.5”upward for bottom fold. 12-13 =Measure ½”inside and mark a point. 3-14 =Same as 1-12. Mark the point. 14-16 =Measure 1/4th hip -2” for bottom flair and mark the point. Join 1-13 ,3-15 and 15-9 as per shape. BACK 0-1 =Measure length of nicker -1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of hip + 3.5” for the width of the nicker and mark the point. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure ½” inside mark a point 4-5 =Measure ¾” down and mark the point. 4-6 =Measure 1/4th of hip + 1” and mark the point. 6-7 =Same as 4-5. Mark the point. Join 5-7. 8 =Mark as the center point of 4-5 for dart. 0-8 =Measure 1/3rd of hip – 1” and mark the point. 8-9 =Same as 0-2 total width of the nicker. Draw 8-9 as a straight line. 6-10 =Draw a straight line on 8-9. 11 =Mark as the center point of 6-10. Draw curve shape on 11-9 with French Curve. 1-12 =Measure 1.5”upward for bottom fold. 12-13 =Measure ½”inside and mark a point. 3-14 =Same as 1-12. Mark the point. 14-16 =Measure 1/4th hip -2” for bottom flair and mark the point. Join 1-13, 3-15 and 15-9 as per shape. WAIST BANDS 0-1 = 2” width and another 3” width 0-2 = ½ waist + 1” for both the waist bands

65 2-3 = 0-1 and 1-3 = 0-2.Join 0-1-3-2. Back part of the nicker is larger than front part. Two piece of each waist band is required. Elastic estimation is 3/4th of waist + ½”. SEWING INSTRUCTION Join one front and one back part together on 4-5-9-14-1. Join front to front and back to back on 6=12=10 together. Join front to back separately on legs parts on10-16-3. Fold bottom and either hem or machine on 1-3 to 14-16. Stitch dart on front. The dart length will be 2:5” length. Join two waist bands together on 0-2. Press the stitch and join narrow waist band to nicker on waist. Narrow waist band will be on top and wide will be inside of the nicker. Fold the edges of wide waist band on 1-3. Now top stitch should be done on right side together with wide waist band on first joining of narrow waist band. Keep a small opening to insert elastic. Now insert elastic and join two ends together of elastic. Close the opening. To finish stretch the waist band and machine two or three times parallel.

CHILDREN’S FULL PANT (with elastic) MEASUREMENTS SEAT = chest + 1” or 2” LENGTH = according to measurement WAIST = seat -6” BOTTOM = ½ seat – 1” or 2” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART) 0-1 =Measure full length of the pant and mark the point. 1-A =Measure 2” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/3rd seat -1” and mark the point. 0-3 =Measure 1/4th seat + 1”and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-3-4. 4-5 =Measure 1:5” out side and mark a point. 6 = Mark as a center point of 3-4 & 7 =as a center point of 3-6. Draw a curved shape on 7-6-5 A-B =Measure as bottom flair of pant. Join 5-B 8 =Mark a center point of 5-B. 8-9 =Measure 1” inside for shape. Join 5-9-B as per shape BACK PART For back part place the front part and mark same as it is. Extend the points as per draft. 5-C =Measure 1:5” out side and mark the point. 3-D =Measure 2:5” upside and mark a point. 0-E =Measure 2” upside & measure B-F = 1” outside and mark the points. Join all the points E-D-C-F as per shape. BELT Measure 0-1 and 2-3 as 2” for one and 2:5” width for other belts. Measure 0-2 and 1-3 is ½ waist + 1”as width of the belt. Cut two front parts and two back parts along with two pieces of belt parts. Elastic estimation is 3/4th of waist + ½”. Patch pockets 5” length and 4” width can be attached as per choice.

66

SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch waist darts, if any. Stitch side seams with one front and one back part on E-0-2-1-A. Stitch inner leg seams with one front and one back leg on 5-9-B. Stitch on crochet area on front to front and back to back on 3 -5 or D-C. Fold bottom on A-B and stitch. Join narrow and wide waist belts in the same way as in nicker. After inserting elastic make two or three parallel stitches on waist belt to finish the pant.

DUNGAREE MEASUREMENTS FULL LENGTH = measure shoulder to ankle SEAT = chest + 1” or 2” WAIST = seat -6” BOTTOM = ½ seat -1” or 2” CHEST = as per size PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION Trouser part is as same as children’s full pant. Follow the same drafting of full pant for the trouser. BIB Bib is a square piece of two layer of fabric with the measurement of 1/4th chest +1” all around. POCKET Measure 0-1 and 2-3 is the length of the pocket 4” or 5” & 0-2 and 1-3 is the width of the pocket 3:5” STRAPS Measure 0-1 and 1-3 is the width of the straps 2” & 0-1 and 2-3 is the length of the straps ½ chest + 3” TAB Two piece of tab is required with 0-2 = 2:5” and 0-1 = 2” Two front parts and two back parts cut same as full pant for children. Cut bib one part only for front with two layers of fabric. Two straps with double layer of fabric are required. Two tabs are needed to attach on two sides of waist. Pockets can be one or two as per choice. Big size buttons required 4 pieces.

67

SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch side leg seams on one front and one back part of trouser on 0-1-A, leaving 4:5” open at top edges. Follow the stitching method of full pant for the trouser. At back waist, turn 1:5” to wrong side to insert elastic. Elastic estimation only for back waist is 3/4th of half waist + ½”. Stitch the fold and insert elastic and close the two ends with machine. Fold tabs in half, right side together, stitch points and side edges, turn right side out. Make a horizontal buttonhole in tab. slip unstitched edges in ends elastic casing and stitch firmly in place. Fold bib in half, right sides together, stitch side seams. Turn right side out. Press. Stitch to front waist, right sides together. Neaten remainder of waist seam. Fold shoulder straps in half length wise, right sides together, stitch pointed end and long edge. Turn right side out. Make buttonhole in pointed end. Stitch straps and bib top edge to correspond with buttonholes. Fold pockets in half, right sides together, stitch side and lower edges, leaving gap through which to turn pockets right side out. Slip stitch openings. Stitch pockets in place. Stitch trouser hems.

BOY’S SHORTS MEASUREMENTS HIP = as per size LENGTH = ½ hip – 2” WAIST = seat-6” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART) 0-1 =Measure full length and mark the point. 1-A =Measure 2” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/3rd hip – 1” and mark the point for crochet length. 0-3 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1”and mark the point for waist part. 2-4 =Mark same as 0-3 and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-4-3. 1-5 and A-B =Measure 1/4th hip + 2”and mark the point. 4-6 =Measure 1 ½”and mark the point. Join B-5-6. 7 =Mark a center point of 3-4 and mark 8 a center point of 3-7. Draw curve shape on 3-8-6. 3-9 =Measure ½” upside for shape and mark the point. Join 0-9 9-10 =Measure 1/4th waist + 1”and mark the point. Join 9-10 10-11 =Measure 7” down for pocket opening and mark the point. 12 =Measure a center point of 2-4 and mark. Draw straight line and mark 3” down for waist dart. BACK PART Place front and draw outline as it is. Now extend some points for back part. 4-6 =Measure 1 ½” out side and mark the point. 1-5 and A-B =Measure 1” outside and mark the point. Join 6-5-B

68

3-9 =Measure 1 ½” upside and mark the point. Join 10-9 and 9-6. Draw curve shape on 10-11 Draw back waist dart on 12. WAIST BELTS Two belts are there of same shape with different width. One is with 1 ½” width and the other is 2 ½”. 0-1 =Mark same as 2-3. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ waist + 2” and mark the point. 0-4 and 2-5 =Measure ½” down for shape and mark the point 6 =Mark a center point of 1-3 and mark the point. 6-7 =Measure ½” upside and mark the point. Join 1-7-3 and 4-5 as curved shape. SIDE POCKETS 0-1 =Measure 1/3rd hip + 2” is length of the pocket and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th waist – 1 ½” and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2. 1-4 =Measure 1 ¼” upside for shape and mark the point. 3-5 =Measure ½” upside for shape and mark the point. Draw shape on 4 to 5. ZIP STRIPES 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1/3rd hip -2” length and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 2” width and mark the point. Cut two front and two back parts. Cut two waist belts of different width. Inner lining fabric should use for two side pockets. Cut three stripes of fabric for zip attachment. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch front and back darts. Attach zip on two front parts on 10-11-2. Join two zipper strips together as per shape on 1-3, press the seam and turn. Now open the zip and place one side of zip in between the front part and strips and machine on very close to edges. To attach on other part join the rest one strip to other part, turn and press the seam. Place the other side of zip on inner side at distance of ¾” and tack with hand needle so that at the time of machining it will not slip from place. Now start machining from waist to down and at the end of the zip bar tack to lock the end. To attach side pockets fold the edges 1011 on front part and machine. Place a small piece of fabric of shorts on the inner layer of pocket and join to hide to show lining fabric of pocket. Join pocket on 2-5-4. Join one top layer of pocket to side seam of front part and other part to back part within the side seam line. Fold bottom and machine. Join two waist bands together on 4-5, turn and press the seam. Fold the edges of wide waist band and machine on 1-7-3. Stitch the both ends of the waist bands, turn and press the seam. Join narrow waist band with waist part of the shorts. Press the seam neatly and top stitch together with wide waist band inside. Finish shorts by attaching hook on waist.

69

BOY’S NIGHT SUIT MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest – 4” SHOULDER = ½ chest – ½” FULL SLEEVE LENGTH = ½ chest + 7” to 8” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART) A-0 and B-1 =Measure 2” extra for placket and mark the point. Join A-B and 0-1 a straight line. 0-1 = Measure length of the shirt + 1 ½” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + 2 ½” for the width of the shirt and mark the point. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest for armhole length and mark a point. 0-5 =Measure ½ of shoulder width measurement + ¼”and mark a point. 5-6 =Measure 3/4th down for shoulder shape and mark a point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th of chest for front neck length and mark the point. Join 7-8 as per shape. Mark a center of 7-8 and name the point as a. Measure ½” inside from a-b and draw light curve shape on 8-b-7. 4-9 =Measure width of the shirt same as 0-2 and mark the point. 5-6 & 10 is a straight line. Mark a center point of 5-10 and name the point as 11. Measure ½” inside from 11-12 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape with the help of the French curve. BACK PART 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, & 4-9 =Measure same as in front part and mark the points. 0-8 =Measure ½” down for back neck. Draw a rectangle by joining 7 & 8 points and draw a curved shape for back neck by French curve. 5-10 =Draw a straight line and mark 11 as the center point. Draw back armhole shape on 6-11 & 9. FULL SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure full sleeve length + 1 ½” bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + ½” for the width of the sleeve. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-2-3-1 4 =Mark a center point of 0-2. 4-5 =Measure ½” inside and mark a point. 6 = Mark a center point of 0-4. 6-7 =Measure ¼” inside. Join 0-7-5-9 for back armhole shape. 5-8 =Measure 1” inside. Join 7-8-9 for front armhole shape 2-9 =Measure same as 2-4. 3-10 =Measure 1” to 1 ½” for sleeve bottom. Join 9-10. COLLAR 0-1 and 2-3 = Measure 3 ½” for the length of the collar. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/6th chest + 1 ½” for the width of the collar. 4 =Measure a center point of 0-2 & 5 measure a center point of 1-3. 1-6 =Measure ½” upside and on 0-7 =measure 1 ½” upside. Join 4-7-6-5 as per shape. POCKET Measure 1/4th chest 2” to 2 ½” length and 1/12th chest + 1” width for the pocket and mark the points.

70

Cut two front parts, one back, two sleeves, two pockets and two layer of collar. On collar mark 1/4th” all around for seam allowance. SEWING INSTRUCTION Fold the 0-A and 1-B area for both the front part and tack with hand needle. Fold the one end of pocket and stitch. Place two pockets on two fronts by keeping 2” distance from placket and 5” downside from shoulder. Stitch the pockets (see page 12). Join front and back shoulder on 6-7. Join two piece of collar together as per shape and turn. Press the seam and top stitch as per shape on 6-8-7-4-0. Mark a small notch on the centre of the collar and back neck. On front turn the 0-A and stitch just the top end and turn and press the seam. Match the notch mark of collar and back neck and fix with pin. Join one layer of collar from front 8-b-7 to back 8-7. Press the seam and turn seam inside and place the top layer of collar and top stitch on joining. Fold the bottom of sleeves and stitch. Match the top of the sleeve 0 with the shoulder seam of body and join the sleeves. Join two sides of front and back along with sleeves on 9-10. Mark the points to fix buttons and buttonholes on front open. Make buttonholes and stitch buttons.

PYJAMA MEASUREMENTS LENGTH = as per size SEAT = chest + 1” or 2” WAIST = seat – 6”

71 PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure full length of the Pajama and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th seat + 3” for the width of the pajama and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a block 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/3rd seat for boys & 1/3rd seat + 2” for girls and mark the point. 4-5 =this point is the width of the pajama. Mark the point. 0-6 & 4-7 =Measure 1/4th seat + 1 ¼” and draw a square 0-4-7-6. Mark 8 a center point of 6-7. Draw a curve shape on 8-5. 1-9 =Measure same as 4-7 and mark the point. Join 5-9 with shape. WAIST BELT 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 2” width of the belt and 0-2 and 1-3 = ½ waist + 1” and mark the points. This kind of casual pajama can be worn with night suit for both boys and girls. On waist there is elastic in pajama for comfort. Elastic estimation is 3/4 of total waist + 1”. SEWING INSTRUCTION Join sides on 0-4-1 with one front and one back leg part. Join inner leg parts on 5-9. Join crochet area on 6-5. Stitch the belt piece with casing to insert elastic. Insert elastic and close the end. Fold the bottom of pajama and machine to finish.

HALF BUSH SHIRT MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest – 4”-5” SHOULDER = ½ of chest measurement + 2” HALF SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4th of chest – 2” NECK GIRTH = 1/4th chest -2”

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT) Draw same pattern as boy’s night suit shirt. BACK Draw same as boy’s night suit shirt. There is no neck shape for back part because here yoke is to be stitched. Join 0-6 as per shape. HALF SLEEVE 0-1 =Measure sleeve length + 1 ½” extra for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + ½”and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 2-0. Draw a square on 0-1-3-2 4 =Mark as a center point of 0-2 & 5 as a center point of 0-4.

72 4-6 =Measure ½” & 5-8 measure ¼” inside and mark the points. 6-7 =Measure 1” inside and mark the point. 2-9 =Measure same as 2-4. Measure 1” on 3-10 and mark the point. Join 9-10. Join 0-8-5-9 for back armhole shape and join 8-7-9 for front armhole shape. POCKET 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 1/6th chest – ¼”+ 1 ½” for top fold, is the length of pocket, mark the point. 0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/6th chest – ½” for the width of the pocket and mark the point. 1-5 and 3-6 =Measure ½” upside for shape. Join 5-4-6. COLLAR See page no. 20 for shirt collar. BACK YOKE 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 3 ½” width of the yoke and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ shoulder + 1 ½” for the length of the yoke and mark the point. 0-4 =Measure 1 /12th chest for the width of the neck and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure 1 ½”for the length of the neck. Draw curve shape for back neck. 2-6 =Measure 1 ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. Join 4-6. Cut two fronts and one back part. Cut two sleeves and one or two pocket as per choice. Two pieces of back yoke is needed and two piece of collar and two piece of collar band. One piece of collar facing without seam allowance is required to insert inside the collar for stiffness. SEWING INSTRUCTION First fold the front placket a-b and tack with hand needle. Fold the top of the pocket and stitch. Place pocket 1 ½” away from front placket and tack with hand needle. Stitch the pocket with bar tacking on two sides on top of the pocket. Place back shoulder part in between the two pieces of yoke and tack and then machine. Turn back yoke and press the stitch. Join front and back shoulder on 6-7 of front with 4-6 of back yoke. Stitch collar to finish the neck part of the shirt (see page 20). Fold the bottom of the sleeves and stitch. Join two sleeves with the shirt. Fold the bottom of the shirt and stitch. Make buttonholes and stitch buttons on the front plackets.

SKIRT MEASUREMENT REQUIRED HIP = as per size LENGTH = lower waist to down as per choice WAIST = as per size

73 PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the skirt – 1 ½”and mark the point. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 1/4th hip +4” or as per choice for bottom flair and mark the point. Join 2-3. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th of waist + ½” for loose and 1” for seam and mark the point. Join 4-3 as per shape. 5 = Mark a center point of 0-4. Measure ½” + ½” 5-6 & 5-7 for dart and mark the points. 5-8 =Measure the length of the dart is 3”. Draw the dart shape on 7-8-6. 3-9 =Measure 1” upside for shape. Draw the shape with the help of the French curve. BELT 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1 ½” width of the belt and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ waist +1”for ease + 1”extension for hook and mark the point. Cut one front part and one back part of skirt and two pieces of belt. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch front and back darts. Join sides of front and back on 2-8. Stitch waist belt to skirt waist part on 02. Fold the bottom flair and machine on 1-8. Attach hook on waist to finish the skirt.

GIRL’S NIGHT SUIT MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest – 2” SHOULDER = 1/3rd chest + 3” PUFF SLEEVES LENGTH = 1/4th chest PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (YOKE AND SKIRT) 0-1 =Measure length of night suit and mark the point. 1-A =Measure 1 ½” fold for bottom and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest for the length of the yoke and mark the point. 0-3 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 3-3a =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 2-3b =Same as 0-3. Draw a square on the points 0-3-3b-2.

3b-3c =Measure 1”upside for yoke shape and mark the point. 0-4 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ¼” for the neck width and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure 1” for back neck length and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”for front neck length and mark the point. 2-7 =Measure ½ chest + 4 to 6” for gathers and mark the point. 7-7a =Measure 1” upside for shape and mark the point. 7-7b =Measure 1”down for shape and mark the point. Draw curve shape by joining 7-7a -7b points.

74 1-8 =Same as 2-7 and A-B = 1-8. Draw front and back neck and armhole shape PUFF SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure sleeves length – 1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest as width of the sleeve and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-3-1. 3-4 =Measure 1”and mark the point. 0-A =Measure 2” for gathers and mark the point. 5 =Mark middle point of A-2. 5-6 =Measure ½”and 6-7 = 1”inside. 8 =Mark a center point of A-5. 8-9 =Measure ¼” inside and mark the point. 2-10 =Same as 2-5. Join A-9-6-10 for back armhole shape & 9-7-10 for front armhole shape. Join 10-4. COLLAR 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 2 ½” width of the collar and mark the point. 0-4 =Measure ½” down and mark the point. 1-5 =Measure 1”down for collar shape and mark the point. 3-6 =Measure ½”upside and mark the point. Join 2-4 and with a curve on 1-5-6. POCKET (as per choice) 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1/6th of chest + 1”length of the pocket Join 2-4 and with a curve on 1-5-6. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure1/6th chest – 1”for the width of the pocket and mark the point. Draw curve on the corner of the pocket on1& 3. On front yoke part there is opening to attach buttons. Two layers of fabric are required for collar. Cut two straight stripes of fabric to finish the sleeves bottom with 1 ½” width. To finish opening two stripes of fabric with different width is needed. SEWING INSTRUCTION Adjust gathers on front and back skirt parts and join back skirt part to back yoke. Separate the front yoke part in two piece and slit 1 ½” on the centre of the skirt. Match the skirt slit with the opening on yoke and join together yoke and skirt. Finish the open part for buttoning on front yoke with stripes of fabrics. Join front and back shoulder. Stitch together the two piece of collar on4-1-5-3-6-2, turn and press the seam. Place the collar on the neck part and tack with hand needle and then machine carefully. Place two pockets on front side of skirt and stitch. Adjust gathers on sleeves armhole and bottom. Finish the sleeves bottom with attaching straight stripes of fabric. Place sleeves gathers part on shoulder of the body and join two sleeves. Finish the night suit by making buttonholes and attaching buttons.

ONE PIECE FROCK MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED CHEST = as per size LENGTH = neck point to knee WAIST = circumference WAIST LENGTH = neck point to middle waist SHOULDER = width SLEEVE LENGTH = shoulder point to arm PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure full length of the frock + 2” for bottom hem and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest and mark the point. 0-3 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 0-4 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 4-5 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point.

75 0-6 =Measure 1/12th chest + ½” and mark the point. Join 5-6. 0-7 =Measure 1 ½” to 2” down for back neck length and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th chest + 1” to 1 ½” for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shape 2-9 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½”ease + 1”for seam and mark the point. 3-10 =Same as 2-9. Draw straight line 9-10 10-11 =Measure 1” inside for waist shape and mark the point. 1-12 =Measure 1/4th chest + 6” to 8”for flair and mark the point. 12-14 =Measure 1 ½” upside for shape. FOR DART 0-A =Measure 1/4th chest + 1”and mark the point. 3-B =Measure A-3 on 3 take ½”+ ½”both side for dart and mark the point. Draw front and back armhole shape.

One piece frock should cut on bias fabric for a correct drape. Plain sleeves or puff sleeves can be joining. To fit on waist dart is there, in place of dart waist belt can be stitched with side seam. To finish neck cut bias fabric stripes. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch darts, if any. Slit on the centre back part on 7-3 for back opening. Finish the open area for buttoning on back part with the straight stripes of fabric. Finish front and back neck with bias stripes. Finish the bottom of sleeves and join with the frock on armhole. Join front and back sides on 9-11-13. To attach waist belt insert one end of belt within the side seam on 11 and stitch along with side seam. Fold the bottom flair end and either machine or hem. Button stitching is the finishing part of the frock.

TWO-PIECE FROCK MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED CHEST = as per size LENGTH = on shoulder neck point to knee WAIST = circumference WAIST LENGTH= shoulder to waist SLEEVES LENGTH

76

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS) 0-1 =Measure waist length + ½”and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½”ease + 1” seam and mark the point. 1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest for neck and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure 1” to 1 ½” down for back neck length and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure 1/12th chest + 1”fornt neck length. Draw front and back neck shape with French curve. 4-10 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½”ease + 1”seam and mark the point. 3-11 =Measure ½” inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-11. 1-12 =Mark 3” for dart. 12-13 =Measure & mark 3” for dart length. 12-14 and 12-15 =Measure and mark ½”+ ½” for dart. Draw dart on 13-14 and 13-15. Draw front and back armhole shape with the help of the French curve. PUFF SLEEVE Puff sleeves draft has given in baby frock drafting in page 22. SKIRT 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure full length – waist length + 2”for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/4th chest + 6” to 8” for gathers and mark the point. This is a simple two piece frock drafting and so many adaptation can be done with this. To decorate frock collar and puff sleeves can be attached. For the skirt part pleats can be chosen. To make it more decorative, designer or party frock lace or net fabric can be used with satin lining and can be decorated with frills, satin ribbons, bows or lace. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch front and back dart. For the designer frock avoid front dart. Keep back opening to attach buttons or zip can be attached. Finish front and back neck with bias stripes or collar. Finish the bottom of the sleeves and stitch with top. Adjust gathers on skirt and join with the top.

77

LOW-WAIST FROCK MEASUREMENT REQUIRED CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest + 4” to 6” WAIST LENGTH = ½ chest – 1 ½” LOWER WAIST LENGTH = ½ chest + 2” SHOULDER = ½ chest – 1” SLEEVE LENGTH = ½ chest – 2” SLEEVE BOTTOM = 1/6th chest + 1 ½” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (top) 0-1 =Measure length of the frock and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 1.5” for ease + ¾” for seam and mark the point. 2-3 =Measure lower waist length + ½” and draw a straight line. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7. 0-8 =Measure same as 0-7 for back neck length and mark the point.

0-9 =Measure 1/12th chest + 1”for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front & back neck shape. 4-10 =Measure same as 0-2 i.e. width of the top of the frock. 0-11 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 10 -12 =Measure same as 4-11 and mark the point. 12-13 =Measure 1”inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-13-3 as per shape. 0-14 =Measure lower waist length and mark the point. Join 14-3. 14-15 =Measure 1/4th chest + 4”or more for gathers and mark the point. 1-16 =Measure same as 14-15 and mark the point. Join 1-16-15. 0-17 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1” for the dart point and mark. 17-18 & 11-19 =Measure 3.5” for the distance of the dart and mark the point. 11-20 =Mark same as 17-11 and mark the point. 20-21 =Measure same as 17-18. Draw a straight line 18-19-21. 19-22 & 19-23 =Measure ½”+ ½” for the dart and join 18-22-21 and 18-23-21 with shape.

78 5-6-24 points are in a straight line. Point 25 is the center of 5-24. Draw back armhole shape on 6-25 & 10. Measure ½” inside from 25 and name the point as 26. Draw front armhole shape on 6-26 & 10. LEG’O MUTTON SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure full or 3/4th sleeve length and mark the point. 1-2 =Measure 1/4th chest for the width of the sleeve. 1-3 =Same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle on 0-1-3-2 3-4 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. 5 =Mark as a center point on 0-2. 2-6 =same as 2-5, mark the point. 7 =Mark as a center point of 5-6 and mark the point. 7-8 =Measure 1” for front armhole shape and mark the point. 0-A and 2-B =Measure 3 to 4” upside extension for gathers and mark the point. Draw armhole shape on A-5-7-6 for back and 0n 5-8-6 for front. Join 6-4. Cut front and back parts and mark dart shape on wrong side of the fabric. Cut two straight stripes of fabric to finish the sleeves bottom. To finish neck either cut bias stripes of fabric or collar. There is opening in back part to stitch buttons or attach zip. Cut straight stripes of fabric to finish opening. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch front and back darts. Finish back open part with the straight stripes of fabric. Join front and back shoulder on 7-8. Finish neck part with the bias stripes or with collar. Adjust gathers on sleeves bottom at centre and join stripes of fabric to finish. Adjust gathers on sleeves top arm on A-5 and match with the shoulder stitch of body. Join the sleeves. Adjust gathers on skirt and match with the lower waist of the top part. Stitch together top and skirt. Fold bottom of skirt and hem.

UMBRELLA FROCK MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest + 4” to 6” WAIST LENGTH = ½ chest – 1 ½” SHOULDER = ½ CHEST – 1” SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4th chest (middle arm length) SKIRT LENGTH = full length – top length + 1 ½” for bottom fold PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (TOP) 0-1 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1.5” for ease + ¾” for seam and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box by joining points 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest for the armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼”and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th chest + ½”for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 4-5 0-8 =Measure 1”down for back neck length and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure 1/12th chest + ½”down for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shape with the help of the French curve. . 4-10 =Measure width of the top and mark the point. 3-11 =Measure 1”inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10 -11 with shape. 1-12 =Measure 3” for dart and mark the point. 12-13 and 12-14 =Measure ½” both side and mark the point. 12-15 =Measure 1/12th chest + 1”for the dart length and mark the point. Join 15 with 13, 12 & 14.

79 Draw front and back armhole shape on 5-6 & 10 as instructed for low waist frock.

SKIRT On bias fabric two sides is fold. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure skirt length + 1”for bottom fold + 1/6th chest and mark the point. 0-4 & 0-5 =Measure 1/6th chest – ½”and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 4-5 and on bottom flair 21. FLAIRED SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure half sleeves length and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + ½”for the width of the sleeve and mark the point. 3 =Measure a center point of 0-2 and mark the point. 3-4 =Measure ½”inside and mark the point. 5 =Mark a center point of 0-3. 5-6 =Measure ¼” and mark the point. 4-7 =Measure 1” inside and mark the point. 2-8 =Measure same as 2-3 and mark the point. Join 0-6-4-8 for back armhole shape and join 6-7-8 for front armhole shape. 1-9 is the bottom flair of the sleeves as per choice. Join 8-9 as per shape. Cut one front part and two back part for back opening. Cut two sleeves on bias fabric. Cut skirt. For neck finishing either cut bias stripes of fabric or collar as per design. Cut straight stripes of fabric to finish back opening. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch front and back dart. Dart can be avoided for the design on front side. Finish back open by stitching straight stripes of fabric. Zip can be attached. Join front and back shoulder. Finish neck with bias stripes of fabric or with collar. Fold sleeves bottom and machine. Join two sleeves on top. Take a 4” wide fabric with skirt length for waist belt. Join two edges and one end and turn. Tack open end of belt on the side seam of top on10 with hand needle. Fold the bottom edges of skirt and machine on 2-3. Join together top and skirt. Finish umbrella frock with stitching buttons on back

80

DESIGNER PARTY FROCK MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest + 4” to 6” WAIST LENGTH = ½ chest – 1 ½” SHOULDER = ½ CHEST – 1” SLEEVE LENGTH = 1/4th chest (middle arm length) SKIRT LENGTH = full length – top length + 1 ½” for bottom fold. Sheer fabric with lining is suitable material for designer frock. Ribbons, lace and show buttons can be used for decorative purpose. Pre wash the lining material to remove starch and iron properly before cutting. Here frock is decorated with frills and ribbons with puff sleeve and round collar. PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS) 0-1 =Measure waist length + ½” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½”ease + 1” seam and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼”and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest for neck width and mark the point. . 0-8 =Measure 1” to 1 ½” down for back neck length and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure 1/12th chest + 1”for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shape with French curve. 4-10 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½”ease + 1” seam and mark the point. 3-11 =Measure ½” inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-11. 1-12 =Mark 3” for dart. 12-13 =Measure & mark 3” for dart length. 12-14 and 12-15 =Measure ½”+ ½” for dart and draw dart on 13-14 and 13-15. Draw front and back armhole shape with the help of the French curve.

SKIRT 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length – waist length + 2” for bottom fold and mark the point.

81 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/4th chest + 6” to 8” for gathers and mark the point. . PUFF SLEEVE Draw the puff sleeve pattern by following slash method which given in page no. 22 in this book. BACK WAIST BELT 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the waist belt same as skirt length + 2”and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 3.5” width of the belt and mark the point. Measure 1” upside from 3-4 and join 14 as per shape & cut. ROUND COLLAR Method to cut round collar is given in page no.17 of this book. For designer party frock cut one front part, two back parts, two skirt part and two layer of collar. Cut lining fabric same as main fabric parts. For collar only one piece of lining fabric is needed. Two puff sleeves, two fabric strips of 1.5” wide and length of waist length to finish back open, one 1.25” wide neck shape strip to finish neck line. Two 3” wide long strips of main fabric are required to stitch frills as per the design of the party frock. Satin ribbon of same color of main fabric and zip according to waist length is required. Cut two pieces of waist belt. Mark dart on the lining material of front and back parts. STITCHING INSTRUCTIONS Place the lining material on the wrong side of front and back of main fabric and fix with the alpine. Stitch from side seam to armhole, shoulder and neck shape. Turn and press the seam properly. Stitch front and back darts. Stitch zip (see page no. 14) to finish back open. Place two layers of collars by keeping wrong side on top and on that place lining piece of collar and stitch outer circle along with ends. Turn to right side from neck shape open area and press the seam. Cut a small notch mark on center of neck and front part. Place the collar on the neck shape by matching notch mark and fix with alpines. On top place neck shape strip and same way as collar and stitch. Press the seam and turn the neck strip on wrong side. Fold other side edge of the strip and finish with hem. Finish the edges of puff sleeves and frills with fine picot. Stitch and adjust the gathers on armhole shape and bottom girth of the sleeve At the girth stitch ribbon at the distance from the edges by measuring ½ of sleeve girth + 1” for ease + ½” for seam. Place sleeve according to the front and back armhole shape and start stitching from one end to shoulder to adjust gathers at arm point. Stitch back waist belt on 0-1-4-2 as per shape from wrong side and take out to right side from 0-2. Insert 0-2 part of waist belt 1”away from 11 on both sides of the top and fix with alpines. Join sides of top along with sides of sleeves. Fold the bottom edges of the lining piece of skirt and stitch. Place lining fabric, skirt and frill all together and stitch gathers. Adjust gathers according to waist of top and stitch to join. Adjust gathers on second strip of frill and place on skirt to stitch 1” away from edges. On the stitching line of frill fix satin ribbon and stitch. Decorate the frock with small bows of ribbons.

WAIST CUT FROCK WITH LACE MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED CHEST = 20” LENGTH = chest 20 + 1” = 21” WAIST LENGTH= ½ of chest 10”+ ½”= 10.5” SHOULDER = ½ chest 10”-1”= 9” PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS) 0-1 =Measure waist length 10.5”+ ½”= 11”and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest 5”+ 1 ½”ease + 1” seam = 7.5”and mark the point. 1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest 5”for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder 4.5” + ¼” = 5 ¾ ”and mark the point.

82 5-6 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point.

0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest 1.66”+ ½”= 2.¼”approx for neck width and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure 1 ½” to 2”down for back neck length and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure 1/12th chest 1.66”+1”= 2.5” front neck length. Draw front and back neck shape with French curve. 4-10 =Measure 1/4th chest 5”+ 1 ½”ease + 1” for seam = 7.5” and mark the point. 3-11 =Measure ½” inside for shape and mark the point. Join 10-11. 5-12 =Measure same as 0-8. Join 8-12 as a straight line. 13 =Measure center point of 7-5 and mark below on 8-12 line. 9-14 =Measure ½” below and mark the point. Draw smooth V shape on 14-13 and join with 10 for armhole shape. SKIRT 0-3 And 2-3 =Measure full length 23 – waist length 11.5” + 2” for bottom fold = 13.5” and mark the point. 0-4 And 1-3 =Measure 1/4th chest 5.5” + 6” to 8” for gathers = 11.5” to 13.5” and mark the point. WAIST BELT Waist belt length will be same as skirt length with 3” width. Two waist belts are required for both sides. This is a simple two piece frock drafting and so many adaptation can be done with this. To decorate frock collar and puff sleeves can be attached. For the skirt part pleats can be chosen. To make it more decorative, designer or party frock lace or net fabric can be used with satin lining and can be decorated with frills, satin ribbons, bows or lace. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch front and back dart. For the designer frock avoid front dart. Keep back opening to attach buttons or zip can be attached. Finish front and back neck with bias stripes or collar. Finish the bottom of the sleeves and stitch by matching front and back armhole shape. Stitch waist belt and fix both the pieces of belt on two side seam of top above ¾” from waist end edges with alpines. Adjust gathers on skirt and join with the top.

HALTER NECK FROCK WITH SMOCKING MEASUREMENTS CHEST = 18” LENGTH = chest WAIST LENGTH = ½ chest 9” – 1 ½” = 7.5” SHOULDER = ½ chest 9” – 1”= 8” SKIRT LENGTH = full length 18 – top length 7.5”+ ½” for bottom fold = 10”.

83 For smocking take chest width and waist length of fabric of two pieces one for front and one for back and stitch smocking by hand needle or sewing machine. Adjust smoking evenly and if wish decorate with small embroidery stitches or beads. Now measure the smocked fabric for front and back and cut. PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK PARTS) 0-1 =Measure waist length 7.5”+ ½”= 8”and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest 4.5” + 1 ½”ease + 1”seam = 7” and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0, 1, 2 & 3 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest 4.5” for armhole length and mark the point. 4-10 = Total width same as 0-2. Here no need to draw neck and armhole shapes because back open is finished with zip and on front it is halter neck design. HALTER NECK STRAP 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure chest 18”-2”= 16” for the length of the halter neck strap. 0-2 & 1-3 = Measure 3.5” for the width of the halter neck strap. 4 =Mark as the center point of 0-2. Join 1-4 & 3-4.

SKIRT 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure full length 18”– waist length 7.5”= 10.5” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/4th chest 4.5”+ 6” to 8” for gathers = 10.5”to12.5”and mark the point. BACK WAIST BELT 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the waist belt same as skirt length + 2”and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 3.5” width of the belt and mark the point. Measure 1” upside from 3-4 and join 14 as per shape & cut. Cut one front part, one back part divide length of the skirt 10.5” in three equal parts. Cut three layers of fabric strips by each 3.5”+ 1”= 4.5” width and for waist with 10.5” to 12.5”, second with ½ of the chest and bottom with chest measurement. Cut halter neck straps on bias of the fabric. Cut two shoulder strap is with 7”length and 1” width. Cut straight strips to stitch zip to finish back open. Cut lining of fabric for skirt.

84 STITCHING INSTRUCTIONS Finish edges of layer for the skirts, base of the skirt fabric, halter neck strips and top edges of front and back with picot. Finish back open by stitching straight strips of fabric along with zip. Mark the point with 3.5”-1”=2.5” on 4 to place halter neck strip. One inch is to overlap each other at the center front. Place halter neck strip and stitch to join. Stitch shoulder straps on armhole from front to back to make the top firmed on body. Join front and back sides. Adjust gathers on layers in such a way that each layer should be overlapped each other by 1” on lower side. Join skirt with top. Decorate halter neck frock by stitching satin ribbon flowers on top of the front on left and right.

85

ADAPTION OF DRESS PATTERNS WITH THE HELP OF BODICE BLOCK To adapt any dress pattern, prepare a block with correct measurement of any size. Place the block on another paper sheet and draw outline. Remove the block and draw the desired pattern on the redrawn block outline. Here are some patterns given to follow.

Pinafore Blouse

Skirt

86

WOMEN’S GARMENT SARI PETTICOAT (six pieces) MEASUREMENTS FULL LENGTH = lower waist to ankle WAIST = girth

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length -2” for waist belt + 2” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure width of the fabric 17 ½” and mark the point. 0-4 =Measure 1/12th of waist + ½” and mark the point. 3-5 =Measure 1/6th of waist + ½” and mark the point. Join 4-5. 4-6 and 5-7 =Measure and mark 1” for shape. WAIST BELT 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 4”width of the belt and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ waist + 1”and mark the point. After cutting on fold there will be two pieces for centre front and centre back parts and on other side it will be four pieces for side parts. Cut waist belt on fold on 0-1. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch two side parts with centre front part and same with centre back part as shown in figure.

Join front and back parts together on one side. Other side keeps 5”open on waist and rest of the side join together. Fold the edges on 5” open and stitch. Tack the waist belt on waist with hand needle and

87 machine. Press the stitch and fold the other side edges of waist belt and stitch. Turn the waist belt by overlapping the first joining stitch, inside the petticoat and stitch. Trim the bottom flair on shape. Fold the edges on flair and stitch. Stitch dory with a long strip of narrow fabric and insert in waist belt.

SARI PETTICOAT (eight pieces) MEASUREMENTS FULL LENGTH = lower waist to ankle WAIST = girth PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure full length -2” for waist belt + 2” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure half width of the fabric 17 ½” and mark the point. 0-4 = Measure 1.5” and mark the point. 3-5 = Measure ½” and mark the point. Join 1-4 and 2-5 as per shape. 4-6 and 5-7 = Measure 1/4th of waist girth + ¼” and mark the points. Join 6-7. 6-8 and 7-9 = Measure 1” for shape and mark the points. Join 2-8 and 1-9. WAIST BELT Waist belt will be same as in six pieces petticoat.

STITCHING INSTRUCTION Place four pieces of one side as shown in the above figure. Same way stitch and join for other side by keeping one side 5” open same as in six pieces petticoat. Rest of the stitching method is same as six pieces petticoat.

NIGHTY GOWN MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED BUST = as per size LENGTH = neck point to ankle SHOULDER = width SLEEVE LENGTH = half sleeve length PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure full length + 2” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th bust and mark the point for armhole length. 0-3 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point.

88 3-4 =Measure ¾” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure 1/12th of bust + ½” for neck width and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th bust for back neck length and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th bust +1” for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shape. 2-8 =Measure same as 0-3 and draw a square 0-2-8 & 3. 8-9 =Measure 1” upside and mark the point. 10 =Mark a center point of 2-8. Draw curve shape on yoke on 9-10. 2-11 =Measure ½ bust + 6” to 8” for gathers and mark a point. 11-12 and 11-13 =Measure 1”and draw curved shape. 1-14 =Measure same as 2-11and mark the point. Join 11-14. Draw front and back armhole shape.

SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure sleeves length + 1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th bust + 1”and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2and mark the point. Draw a square 0-1-3-2 3-4 =Measure and mark 1” inside. 6 =Mark a center point of 0-2 2-5 =Measure same as 2-6 and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 2 ½” upside for gathers and mark the point. Draw front and back armhole shape on a-6-5. Join 5-4.Cut front and back yoke and bottom gather parts. Two sleeves required to join with two straight stripes of fabric of 1 ½”. Cut bias stripes of fabric to finish the neck. To finish front opening, cut two straight stripes of fabric of 1 ¼” and 2” width. Lace can be used for decorative purpose. SEWING INSTRUCTION Adjust gathers on front and back on 2-12 by matching 9-12. After adjusting gather 2-12 should be 1/4th of bust + 2” for ease and ½” for seam. Join back and yoke together. On front yoke keep centre area without gather up to 1” for opening and join front to gathered bottom. Lace can be inserted in between the yoke and gathered bottom. Cut on front yoke to 2” down on bottom for opening. Finish front open with straight stripes of fabric. Join front and back shoulder. Finish neck part with bias stripes of fabric and lace. Adjust gathers on sleeves top on a and on sleeves bottom on 1. Join straight stripes of fabric on sleeve bottom and finish. Join sleeves with yoke. Join two sides of gown along with sleeves to bottom. Fold bottom edges and stitch. Stitch hooks or buttons with holes on front open to finish the gown.

89

PLAIN SALWAR MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED HIP = as per size SEAT LENGTH = 1/3rd hip + 4”to 6” LENGTH = lower waist to ankle BOTTOM FLAIR = as per choice PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (TWO LEG PARTS) 0-1 =Measure full length + 1”- waist band length and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure half fabric width 17 ½”and mark the point. 0-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a box by joining 0-1-3 & 2 points. 0-4 =Measure ½ seat length and mark the point. 2-5 =Measure same as 0-4. Draw a rectangle 0-4-5 & 2. 1-6 =Measure half of bottom flair + 1” Join 5-6. WAIST BAND 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure length of the waist belt by 4” to 6”+ 2” for nada and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ hip + 4”for the width of the waist belt and mark the point. Cut two legs of salwar as per measurement. Cut waist band. Cut 4” width stripes of fabric for bottom flair + 2” and same buckram with 1 ½” width. Cut narrow stripes of fabric to stitch dory.

SEWING INSTRUCTION Join the 4”width stripes of fabric by matching the centre point of leg to centre point of strip on the

bottom of both the leg on 1-5. Turn and press the stitch. Fold the stripe in and insert the buckram and top stitch. Two to four parallel stitches should do on top of the buckram to make it firm.

90

Stitch sides of two legs separately on 4-5. Join two legs to each other on 3-4. Fold the edges on 2-3 on waist band and stitch. Fold 1-3 and stitch to insert dory. Join 3-5. Make a notch mark at the centre of waist band on 4. Adjust gathers on both sides salwar front part in front direction as shown in the below figure.

Match the notch mark on waist band with centre stitch on salwar and join salwar and waist band together with adjusting gathers. Stitch dory with narrow stripes of fabric and insert in salwar waist band.

KALIDAR SALWAR MEASUREMENTS are same as in plain salwar.

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (KALI PART) 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + ½ seat length and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/3rd hip + ½” and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2 0-4 and 3-5 =Measure ½ seat length and mark the point. Join 4-5 on slant line. CENTRE PART 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + 1”- belt length and mark the point. 0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/6th hip + 1”and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2. WAIST BAND Same as in plain salwar. Cut fabric stripes for bottom same as in plain salwar. SEWING INSTRUCTION Join straight part of kali 2-5 and 1-4 with the centre part of leg on 0-1 and 2-3. After joining kali with two legs finish the bottom flair of salwar same as in plain salwar. Stitch two sides of salwar and join two

91 legs with each other and stitch. Adjust gathers on salwar. Fold the top of the waist band same as in plain salwar. Join together salwar and waist band. Follow sewing method for plain salwar for rest of the thing.

PATIALA SALWAR MEASUREMENTS are same as in plain salwar. So much fullness or gathers gives elegant drape and look to Patiala salwar. For full ness fabric estimation for the Patiala salwar is minimum 3.5 to 4 meter with 48” width. PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (KALI PART) 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + ½ seat length and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½” width f the fabric and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2. 0-4 and 3-5 =Measure ½ seat length and mark the point. Join 4-5 on slant line. CENTRE PART 0-3 And 2-3 =Measure full length of salwar + 1”- belt length and mark the point. 0-4 And 1-3 =Measure according to bottom flair or 20” minimum. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2.

STITCHING INSTRUCTION Stitching instruction is same as kalidar salwar.

CHURIDAR MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED HIP = girth FULL LENGTH = lower waist to ankle + 10”to 12” for chudi SEAT LENGTH = 1/3rd hip + 4”to 6” THAI = girth KNEE = girth BOTTOM = around PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (TWO LEGS) 0-1 =Measure full length + 1”+churi + 2” for nada fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/3rd hip + 2” and mark the point. 0-3 =Measure 1/4th hip + 2” and mark the point. 2-4 =Measure same as 0-3 and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-4-3. 4-5 =Measure 1 ½” out side and mark the point.

92

6 =Mark a center point of 3-4 and draw a curve shape on 6-5. 1-7 =Measure ½ bottom + ½”for ease + ½”for seam and mark the point. 1-8 =Measure churi length + 1” fold for bottom and mark the point. 8-9 =Measure ½ of bottom + 1” for ease + ½” for seam and mark the point. 10 =Mark a center point of 8-2. 10-11 =Measure ½ knee + ½”for ease + ½”for seam and mark the point. Join 5-11-9 & 7. Chudidar should place on bias fabric and may be continuous or with waist band. Cut straight stripes of fabric to finish on legs on 6. Sometime a triangle piece of fabric joined on 5 for comfort. Length of this piece is 1/8th hip and width is 4”to 4 ½”. Cut narrow stripes of fabric for dory. SEWING INSTRUCTION On 6 mark 5” above for opening to stitch hooks. Stitch straight stripes of fabric on sides of two legs to finish opening. Fold bottom of the legs and stitch. If wish to join triangle piece for comfort on 5, join. Stitch two sides of legs on 5-10-8-6. Join tow legs to each other on 3-5. To join waist band match centre front to front and centre back to back of chudidar and waist band and stitch. Otherwise fold the top edges of chudidar and stitch by keeping small opening to insert dory. Stitch dory with narrow stripes of Fabric and insert in chudidar. Finish chudidar bottom to stitch hooks and hook holes.

FITTED KURTI MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED BUST = as per size LENGTH = as per choice SHOULDER = width WAIST = girth WAIST LENGTH = length up to middle waist HIP = girth FRONT NECK LENGTH = as per choice SLEEVES LENGTH = as per choice SLEEVES BOTTOM = according to length PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT PART) 0-1 =Measure full length + 1”and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1”for ease + ¾”for seam for the width of the kurta and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box on 0-1-3 & 2.

93 0-4 =Measure 1/4th bust – 1”for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ¾” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th bust + ½” for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7 0-8 =Measure 6”to 6 ½”down for front length and mark the point. 4-9 =Measure 1/4th bust + 1”for ease + 1”for seam and mark the point 0-10 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 10-11 =Measure 1/4th waist + ½”for ease + 1”for dart (optional) + 1”for seam and mark the point. 10-12 =Measure 7” down for hipline and mark the point. 12-13 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1”for ease + ¾”for seam and mark the point. Join 9-11-13 as per shape. 0-14 =Measure 1/4th bust + 1”for dart and mark the point. 14-15, 12-16 & 10-17 =Measure 3 ¾” for dart and mark the point. Draw a straight line on 15-17-16. 17-18 and 17-19 =Measure ½”+ ½”both side.

15-20 =Measure 1” down and mark the point. Draw dart shape on 20-18-16 and 20-19-16. 21 =Mark as the meeting point of 7 & 8. 22 =Mark as the center point of 7-21 and 23 as the center point of 8-21. 21-24 =Measure diagonally 1” outside and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 23-22 for front neck shape with the help of the French curve. 5-6-25 =Draw a straight line. 26 =Mark a center point of 5-25. 26-27 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. 25-28 =Measure diagonally ½” and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-27-28 & 9. 5-6 and 6a is a straight line. Take a middle point on 5-6a and from that point mark a point ½”inside. Join the point with 6 and 9 to draw front armhole shape. BACK PART Most of the point is same as in front only different is mentioned here. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th bust + ½”for back neck length or as per choice. Draw back neck shape. There is no need of point 15 for back dart. Join 18 and 19 upward with 14 and downward with 17. PLAIN SLEEVE 0-1 =Measure sleeve length + ½”for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th bust for the width of the sleeve and mark the point. 1-3 =Mark same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2

94 4 =Measure and mark a center point of 0-2 and mark 5 a center point of 0-4. 4-6 =Measure ½”& on 5-8 it is ¼”and on 6-7 it is 1” and mark the points. 2-9 =Mark same as 2-4. (In case of short sleeve length take point 9 as middle point of 2-3) 1-10 =Measure ½”sleeve bottom + 1”for seam and mark the point. Join 9-10. Join 0-8-6-9 for back armhole shape. Join 8-7-9 for front armhole shape. Cut one front part, one back part and two sleeves. Mark dart points and seam line on front and back wrong side. Cut stripes of fabric as per front and back neck shape to finish neck. Opening is optional, can be on back or shoulder. To avoid dart don’t add 1” on 10-11. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch front and back darts. Join front and back shoulder on 6-7. Place stripe for neck shape and tack with hand needle and then machine. Turn and press the seam and fold inside and again tack with hand needle. Hem neck stripe carefully to get a good finish. Fold the sleeve bottom edges and stitch. Mark a notch on the centre of the sleeve on 0. Match notch with shoulder seam and join sleeves. Join front and back sides on 9-11-13 along with sleeves side seam line. Trim the bottom edges if not even. Fold the edges on open slit on 13-1 and on bottom flair 1-3 and stitch to finish the fitted kurti.

OVERLAP KURTA (Sleeve less) MEASUREMENTS ARE SAME FOR FITTED KURTA PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-A and 1-B =Measure 5” extra for overlap design only for front part and mark the point. 0-1 =Measure full length of kurta + 1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1”for ease + ¾”for seam+ 5” extra for overlap and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th bust – 1” for armhole length and mark the point. (For sleeve follow other kurta) 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ¾”down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th bust + ½” for the neck width and mark the point. Join 6-7. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th bust for back neck length and mark the point. 4-9 =Measure 1/4th bust + 1 ½”for ease + 1”for seam and mark the point 0-10 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 10-11 =Measure 1/4th waist + ¾”for ease + 1” for seam and mark the point. 10-12 =Measure 7” down for hipline and mark the point. 12-13 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1”for ease + ¾”for seam and mark the point. Join 9-11-13 as per shape. 0-14 =Measure 6” to 6.5” for front neck length and mark the point. Join 7-14 of front neck V shape and extend it up to C on overlap part. Overlap part will be tied by small dory on side seam. Draw front and back armhole shape. Plain sleeve drafting is given with fitted kurta drafting. Cut front and back parts. Cut long bias stripes of fabric to finish front overlap along with neck. Cut fabric strip of shape of front and back armhole. Lace or border can be joined to decorate the overlap. SEWING INSTRUCTION Join front and back shoulder on 6-7. Finish overlap along with neck by bias stripes of fabric, lace or border. Finish back and front armhole with same shape of fabric strips. Join front and back sides on 1011-12. Side slit open is choice with overlap because front is already open. Fold bottom edges and stitch to finish kurta. On overlap hooks with hook holes can be stitched or on both front part stitch small dory to knot. Overlap kurta is always in trend and looks good with churidar.

95

A-LINE KURTA (with 3/4th length sleeve) MEASUREMENTS SAME AS GIVEN FOR PREVIOUS KURTA PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure full length + 1”and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1”for ease + ¾”for seam for the width of the kurta and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box on 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th bust – 1”for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ¾” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th bust + ½” for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7 0-8 =Measure 1/12th bust for the back neck length and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure 6”to 6 ½”down for front length and mark the point. 4-10 =Measure 1/4th bust + 1”for ease + 1”for seam and mark the point 0-11 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 10-12 =Join a straight line. 12-13 =Measure 1”inside for waist shape. Join 10-13-3 as per shape.

3-14 & 3-15 =Measure 1” for flair shape and mark the points. Join 14-15 with curve shape. Draw front and back armhole shape.

96 For 3/4th sleeve pattern drafting see page 23 of this book. A-line kurta is a kind of loose fitting kurta. There is no waist fit and on bottom there is flair. Side slit open is optional. SEWING INSTRUCTION Join front and back shoulder. Finish front and back neck with same shaped strips of fabric, and finish with hem. Fold sleeves bottom and join with kurta. Stitch two sides of front and back together on 10-1314. Fold edges on bottom flair and stitch.

FLAIRED KURTA (with full length sleeve) MEASUREMENTS ARE SAME AS IN PREVIOUS KURTA PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION 0-1 =Measure full length of the kurta and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of bust -1” for armhole length of the kurta. 0-3 =Measure ½ widths of the shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 3-4 =Measure ¾” down for the shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure 1/12th of the bust + ½” for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 4-5. 0-6 =Measure same as 0-5 for the back neck length and mark the point. Draw back neck shape. 0-7 =Measure 6” to 6.5” for the front neck length and mark the point. Draw front neck shape. 2-8 =Measure 1/4th of bust + 1 ¼” for ease + 1” for seam allowance and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 8-10 =Draw a straight line. 10-11 =Measure 1” inside and mark the point for shape. Join 8-11. 10-12 =Measure same as 8-10 and mark the point. 1-13 =Measure ½ width of the fabric or as per choice for the flair and mark the point. Join 12-13. 13-14 =Measure 1.5” and 13-15 approx 5” for shape. Draw shape on 14-15. Draw back and front armhole shape by following instructions given in previous kurta.

SEWING INSTRUCTION Sewing method is same as for A-line kurta. Flared kurta should cut on bias fabric for well drape of the fabric. Flared kurta also can be in two pieces with separate top with gathered skirt joining or on skirt

97

Part different frills can be joined for more flair. For two pieces flared kurta draft only up to waist length. Only on 10-11 measure ½” inside and mark. To join Lining with the kurta see page no.12. For gather on skirt fabric width estimation will be waist girth + 16” minimum or more and length will be full length of kurta – waist length. For frills skirt, divide the length of the skirt in three equal length + ½” for seam allowance. First top frill width will be same as gathered skirt, width of the second frill will be 16” more than first one and width of the third and bottom frill will be 32” more than second. Adjust gathers and join three frills together and join with top part. Finish the edge of the bottom frill with picot.

PRINCESS LINE KURTA MEASUREMENTS ARE SAME AS FOR FITTED KURTA

PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION Drafting is same as fitted kurta. Given below instruction are to draw princess line. 0-15 =Measure 1/4th bust + 1” and mark the point. 15-16 =Measure 3 ¾” for the apex point and mark. 17 =Mark a center point of 5-19 on armhole shape. 1-18 =Mark same as 15-16. Join 16-18. Join 17-16-18 for princess line.

98 Princess line kurta is three piece kurta on front. For back part it is optional to cut in one piece or with princess line. First cut the paper pattern of princess kurta and on fabric include ¼”seam line on princess line on centre and side parts. For princess line kurta plain and printed fabric can be combined or on centre part embroidery work can be done. Lace or piping can be attached within the princess seam line. SEWING INSTRUCTION

First join the centre front part with two side parts. Rest of the method is same as fitted kurta

KALI CUT KURTA MEASUREMENTS SAME FOR FITTED KURTA PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION Draw pattern same as princess kurta up to point 14. 0-15 and 1-16 =Measure 1/12th bust + 1 ½”for kali and mark the point. Join 15-16 as a straight line. FOR FISH KALI 13-17 =Mark same as 0-15. Measure 2.5” on both sides on 16-18 & 16-19. Join 18-17 & 19-17 as shape. After cutting the paper pattern of kali kurta, place on fabric and add ¼” seam allowance on 14-16-15 on centre part and two side parts. Fish kali part is an extra piece to increase flair. Cut other shape and parts as in ordinary kurta.

SEWING INSTRUCTION First join centre front and centre back part with two side parts. If fish kali is there that also stitch in the first step. Follow the sewing method same as for fitted kurta.

LUCKNOW KURTA MEASUREMENTS AS PER NORMAL KURTA PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (FRONT AND BACK) 0-1 =Measure full length of the kurta + 1” and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ of shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. Join 2-3 as a straight line.

99 0-4 =Measure 1/12th bust + ½” and mark the point for neck width. 0-5 =Measure 1/12th bust for back neck length and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th bust + 1” for front neck length and mark the point.

6-7 =Measure and mark1/3rd bust – 1”for front open. Draw front and back curved neck shape. 2-8 =Measure full sleeves length + ½” and mark the point. 2-9 =Measure 1/4th bust -1” and mark the point. 8-10 =Measure same as 2-9 less 1” and mark the point. Join 9-10 with shape. 9-11 =Measure 1/4th of 2-9 measurement + ¼” and mark the point. 3-12 =Measure same as 2-9 and mark the point. Join 11-12 with shape. 11-13 =Measure 1/12th bust – ½” and mark the point. 11-14 =Measure 1/6th bust – 1”and mark the point. Join 13-14. Cut one centre front part, one back centre part, four side kali parts and two sleeves. 11-13-14 is a square piece of fabric to join on under arm area. Cut two square piece for under arm with all sides of 1/6th bust – 1”Cut front and back neck shape fabric stripes. Two straight stripes of fabric of 1 ¼” & 2” width and length 1” more than 6-7 is required to finish front open. SEWING INSTRUCTION Slit the front centre part 1/3rd bust – 1”for opening. Finish front open with the fabric strips. For kurta placket stitching instruction see page 14. Finish front and back neck shape with same shape of fabric stripes. Join kali parts on 3-9-11-15 for front and back parts. Fold the sleeves bottom on 8-9 and stitch. Join sleeves on 2-9. Join square piece on 11-13-14. Join under arms of sleeves. Join side parts of front and back together on 14-15. Stitch buttons with holes on front open to finish the kurta.

ANARKALI KURTA MEASUREMENT Measurement required same as for flared kurta. PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION ( Top) 0-1 =Measure waist length + 1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of bust + 1 ¼” for ease + 1” for seam and mark the point for the width. 1-3 =Measure same and mark as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th of bust -1” for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ¾” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th bust + ½” for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7 0-8 =Measure 1/12th bust for the back neck length and mark the point.

100

0-9 =Measure 6” to 6.5” for front neck length and mark the point. 4-10 =Measure total width of the top and mark the point. 3-11 =Measure 1” inside for waist shape and mark the point. Join 10-11. 12 =Draw as the meeting point of 7 & 9. Draw front and back neck shape. Draw 5-6-13 a straight line. Mark 14 as the center point of 5-13. Draw back armhole shape on 6-14-10. Measure ½” inside from 14-15 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-15-10. ANARKALI SKIRT Measurement of 1-2 is ½” girth of waist + 1”. Divide this measurement in equal parts of required number of kali. Cut a straight strip of kali and place it on another paper. Mark the outline and increase flair in inches on both sides of bottom equally and mark as shown in above figure. Cut all the required number of kali and arrange them to join and tack. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Generally fabric of designer kurta is to be stitched with lining. To cut and stitching lining see instructions in page 12. Finish the opening if it is there. Join shoulders together. Finish front and back neckline. Join sleeves if there any, or finish armhole for sleeveless. Join side seams of top. Arrange skirt of kali and stitch with top to finish the kurta.

PLAIN BELTED BLOUSE MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED BUST = as per size LENGTH = waist length minimum 14” SHOULDER = width FRONT NECK LENGTH = 5.5” to 6” as per choice BACK NECK LENGTH = minimum 6.5” or more as per choice SLEEVES LENGTH =short or medium as per choice SLEEVE BOTTOM = circumference PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (Back Part) 0-1 =Measure waist length + 1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th bust + ½”for ease + 1”for seam for the total width of the blouse and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure and mark same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th bust – 1 ½” for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼”and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ½” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th bust + ½” for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7.

101

0-8 =Measure back neck length and mark the point. Back neck length can be down to point 4. 4-9 =Measure 1/4th bust + ½”for ease + 1”for seam as width of the blouse and mark the point. 1-10 =Measure 1/4th waist + 1 ½”for dart + 1”for seam and mark the point. Join 9-10. 1-11 =Measure 3 ¾”for dart and mark the point. 11-12 =Measure 1/3rd of blouse length for the length of the dart and mark the point. 11-13 & 11-14 =Measure ¾” and join 13-12 and 14-12 for the shape of the dart. 15 =this the meeting point of 8 and 7. Measure 16 as the center point of 8-15 and 17 as the center point of 7-15. Draw a curve shape on 16-17 with French curve to draw back neck shape. 5-6-18 is a straight line. 19 is the center point of 5-18. Measure 1” outside from 18-20 and mark the point. Draw a curve shape on 19-20-9 with French curve to draw back armhole shape. Cut back part on 8-16-17-7-6-19-20-9-10. FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure waist length + 2” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of bust + 1” for ease + 1” for seam allowance for the width and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. Measure 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7 and 0-8 same as in back part and mark the points. 0-8 =Measure front neck length and mark the point. 4-9 =Measure total width of the blouse and mark the point. 1-10 =Measure 1/4th waist + 1”for seam and mark the point. Join 9-10. 1-11 =Measure 1/12th of bust + ½” upside for the width of the waist belt. 1-12 =Measure 1” less than 1-11 and mark the point. Join 11-12. 0-13 =Measure 1/4th of bust for the dart and mark the point. 13-14 =Measure 3 ¾” for the apex point of bust for center front dart. 11-15 =Measure same as 13-14 and mark the point for waist dart. Join 14-15 as a straight line. 12.16 =Measure 1.5” upside and mark the point for side seam dart. 23-17 =Measure 1” upside and mark the point for armhole dart. Join 13-14, 15-14, 16-14 & 17-14. Mark 14-a, 14-b, 14-c and 14-d each 1” distance for dart. Measure ½” + ½” on both sides of 13, 16 and 17 for the dart. Measure 1” on 15-18 & 15-19 for waist dart and mark the point. Join 13-a, 16-c & 17-d for the dart shape. Join 18-b and 19-b for waist dart shape. 20 =this the meeting point of 8 and 7. Measure 21 as the center point of 7-20 and 22 as the center point of 8-20. Draw a curve shape on 21-22 with French curve to draw front neck shape. 5-6-23 is a straight line. 24 is the center point of 5-23. Measure ½” outside from 23 and mark the point. Measure 24-25 inside ½” and mark the point. Join 6-25 & 9 with French curve to draw front armhole

102 shape. Extend 12-26 by 2” outside and join 9-26 as per shape to cover 2” for waist dart. After stitching dart blouse will become in original shape. Cut front part on 8-22-21-7-6-25-9 & 26. Cut and separate waist belt on 26-12-18-15-19 &11. PLAIN SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure sleeves length + 1 ½” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th bust + ½” for the width of the sleeve and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-4 4 =Mark as the center point of 0-2. 5 =Mark as the center point of 0-4. 5-6 =Measure ¼” inside and mark the point. 4-7 =Measure ½”and 7-8 by 1 ¼” inside mark the point. 2-9 =Measure same as 2-4and mark the point. Mark 9 as a middle point of 2-3 for short length of sleeve. Join 0-6-7 & 9 for back armhole shape & join 6-8-9 for front armhole shape. 1-10 =Measure 1 ¼” for bottom fold and mark the point. 1-11 =Measure half of bottom girth + 1” for seam and mark the point. 10-12 =Measure and mark same as 1-11. Join 11-12. 11-13 =Measure 1” out side and mark the point. Join 12-13 with shape. Cut sleeve on 0-6-7-9-12-13 on fold. Open the fold and cut front armhole shape on 6-8-9. Cut one back part, two front part, two sleeves and four piece of waist band. Straight stripes of fabric are required to finish front open and back waist. Cut bias stripes of fabric, or as per neck shape to finish neck shape. Mark the darts and seam line on front and back parts on wrong side by placing carbon paper in between paper pattern and fabric with the help of tracing wheel. SEWING INSTRUCTION Fold the sleeves bottom on 10-12 and hem. Stitch darts on back part and join straight strip of fabric on back waist. Press the seam and turn the back waist strip and hem. Stitch straight darts on front part on 13 and 15. Now stitch cross darts on 16 and 17. Place the front part in between the two piece of waist band and join on 11-12-26. Roll the blouse inside of waist belt to join the two piece of waist belt on 1-10. Take out the blouse from side open and press the seam. Turn the waist band and join on 1-10. Join front and back on shoulder on 7-6. Stitch cross stripes of fabric to neck shape. Press the seam and turn, fold the edges and hem, see page no.10. Match side seam of front and back from waist and trim on armhole shape if necessary. Join sleeves with blouse. Stitch on sides of front and back on 9-10 along with sleeves. Stitch hooks with hook holes and finish the blouse.

KATORI CUT BLOUSE MEASUREMENTS SAME AS GIVEN FOR BELTED BLOUSE Back part is same as in plain belted blouse and cut. FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure waist or blouse length + 2 ½” and mark the point. Measure 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9, 1-10, 1-11, 10-12, 0-13, 13-14, 11-15, 15-16 & 15-17 same as in front part of plain blouse. Mark all the points as per instruction. 12-18 =Measure 1/12th of bust and mark the point. 23-19=Measure 1/12th of bust – ½” and mark the point. Join 20-19 & 18 as curved shape for katori. Draw neck and armhole shape same as in plain blouse. Cut katori blouse in three pieces. Separate belt on 11-12. Cut 8-21-22-7-6-25-9-12-11. Separate armhole and katori parts on 18-19 & 20. Redraw katori piece to add extra fabric allowance for dart and seam. Extend 18 up to A by 2” outside. A-B = 1” upside for shape. Join 17- B and 19-B as per shape. This is the final piece of katori part. Sleeve is same as given in belted blouse.

103

Cut one back part on fold. Cut two pieces of armhole part, two pieces of choli part and four pieces of waist belt part. Cut two sleeves. One straight strip of fabric required for back waist, two straight stripes for front open and cross stripes to finish neck. Mark darts and seam line on the wrong side of blouse. Fold the bottom edges of sleeves and hem. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch back dart on. Join strip of fabric on waist, fold the edges and hem. Stitch darts on katori part. Match both side ends of katori and armhole parts on 20 & 18 and fix with alpines or tack with hand needle. Join katori with armhole part on 20-19-18. Rest of the stitching method of katori blouse is same as plain belted blouse.

CHOLI CUT BLOUSE Measurement and back part pattern drafting will be same as for plain darted or katori cut blouse. FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure waist or blouse length + 2 ½” and mark the point. Measure 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9, 1-10, 1-11, 10-12, 0-13, 13-14 same as in front part of plain blouse. Mark all the points as per instruction. 12-15 =Measure 1/12th of bust and mark the point. 26-16 = Measure 1/12th of bust – ½” and mark the point. 23-17 =Measure 1” upward and mark the point. Join 17, 16 & 15 as curved shape same as katori. 13-18 =Draw a straight line for choli shape. 18-19, 18-20, 13-21, 13-22 =Measure ½” up and down side for shape and mark the point. Join 19, 20, 21 & 22 with 14 as per shape. Draw front neck shape on 8-25-24-7 and armhole shape on 6-28 & 9. Cut and separate waist belt part on 11-12. Cut choli blouse on 8-15-14-7-6-28-9-12. Separate armhole and choli part on 15-16 & 17. Separate two pieces of choli on 13-14-18. Place these choli pieces on another paper and draw outline.

104

For the top part of choli extend 18-a, a-b & 13-c by ½” and mark the points. 14-e is a straight line. Redraw the shape by joining points 13-e, a-e and 17-a with curved shape. For the bottom part of choli extend 13-h, 18-f, 15-I and 11-J by ½” outside and mark the point. 14-g is a straight line. Redraw the shape by joining points 13-g-18-I and j. For choli cut blouse cut one back, two waist belt ( each double layer), two front armhole parts, two choli pieces of top and bottom, two sleeves, straight stripes for back waist, and hook stripes and bias stripes to finish the neck line. 6 no. of hooks required to finish front open. Mark side seam line and finish the bottom of sleeves by hemming. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Stitch back darts and straight strip of fabric to finish back waist line. Fold the strip on wrong side and hem. For front part join one top and one bottom part of choli on 13-e-a and 13-g-i.Rest of the stitching instruction is same as katori blouse.

RAGLON BLOUSE Measurement will be same as other blouse. Raglan cut blouse is to be cut with plain waist belted design. Only armhole and sleeve part is mentioned here. PATTERN DRAFTING (FRONT &BACK PART) Measure 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9, 1-10 points same as in plain darted blouse. 7-11 =Measure 1” down and mark the point. Join 11-9 with diagonal line. Cut parts on 8 with neck shape, 11, 9 and 10. RAGLAN SLEEVE Place part on another paper and draw the outline of 9 -11-7-6. Extend 6-12 as shape with length + fold and mark the point. Measure 12-13 half of sleeve bottom + 1” for seam allowance and mark the point.

105 Measure and mark 14 as the center point of 9-13. Measure ¼” upside from 14-15 and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 9-15-13. Measure and mark 18 as the center point of 9-17. Measure ¼” upside from 18-19 and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 17-19-9. Cut raglan sleeve on 7-11-17-9-15-13 with back armhole shape. Open the fold and cut 17-19-9 for the front armhole shape. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Follow stitching instruction of plain waist belted blouse. Fold the raglan sleeve bottom and finish with hem. Match sleeve at point 11-9 with blouse and stitch to join continue with 9-15-13 points. On sleeve joining piping can be inserted.

HIGH NECK BLOUSE Measurement will be the same as for other blouses. BACK PART Measure 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 4-9 & 1-10 same as in plain waist belt blouse and mark the points. Measure 7-8 up side by ½” for high neck for back and mark the point. Join 0-8-6 as per shape. Cut back part on 0-8-6-12-9 & 10.

FRONT PART Measure 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7 points same as in back part. 0-8 =Measure front neck length by 6” to 6.5” as per choice and mark the point. 7-9 =Extend 1/12th of bust as per shape and mark the point. 9-10 =Measure 1 ¼” and mark the point. Join 9-10 & 8 as per shape. 4-11 =Measure total width of the blouse and mark the point. 1-12 =Measure 1/4th of waist and mark the point. Measure and mark 13-14-&15 points and draw front armhole shape by following for other blouses instructions. High neck can be done with any cut of blouse. STITCHING INSTRUCTION

Cut a continuous strip of fabric for neck shape. Join front and back shoulder on 6-7 of front and 6-8 of back. Join 9-10 of front neck shape if it is open. Match 9-10 point of front neck shape with 0 of back and join with back neck shape on 0-8. Match neck strip on front with 8 and on 9-10 at the center of back and fix with alpine or tack with hand needle. Stitch and turn to press the seam towards wrong side. Fold the unstitched edges of strip and finish with hem. Here only finishing of high neck part has given. Follow the stitching instructions of the cut of the blouse which has cut with high neck.

106

DESIGNER PRINCESS CUT BLOUSE Measurement will be same as for any other blouse. PATTERN DRAFTING (front and back ) 0-1 =Measure waist length + 2” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of bust + 1” for ease + 1” for seam allowance for the width and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th of bust and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ of shoulder width + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ½”down for the shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th of bust for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7. 0-8 =Measure front neck length and mark the point. Draw front neck shape. 0-9 = Measure back neck length and mark the point. Draw back neck shape. 4-10 =Measure total width of the blouse and mark the point. 1-11 =Measure 1/4th waist + 1”for seam and mark the point. Join 10-11. 0-12 =Measure 1/4th of bust + 1” and mark the point. 12 -13 =Measure 3 ¾” for the apex point of bust and mark the point. 1-14 =Measure same as 12-13 and mark the point. Join 13-14 as a straight line. 5-6 & 15 is a straight line. Measure and mark 16 as the center point of 5-15. Join 16-13 as a curved shape with the help of the French curve. 16-17 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. Join 6-16-10 for the back armhole shape and 6-17-10 for the front armhole shape with the help of the French curve. Mark 18 as the meeting point of 7 & 8. Mark 19 as the center point of 8-18 and 20 as the center point of 18-7. Draw curve shape on 19-20 for the front neck line. Extend 18 up to 21 at the front neck point. Mark 22 as the center point of 9-21. Draw curve shape on 22-18 for the back neck shape. Always draw front and back parts on separate paper due to the difference of neck and armhole shape. Cut princes blouse on 9-22-18-7-6-16-10-11 for the back part and on 8-19-20-7-6-17-10-11 for the front part. Separate princess cut on 16-17-13 & 14. Place center and side part of princess on another paper and draw outline as per shape. Add ½” extra on outside of the point 16-13-14 for both center and side parts as shown in below figure. Now mark and cut the final parts of princess blouse. STITCHING INSTRUCTION First join two side pieces of princess cut with the center part by matching the shape. Press the seam on right side of the blouse. Rest of the stitching instruction for neck finishing, sleeve stitching and others are same as any other blouse.

107

LINING BLOUSE MEASUREMENTS For any type of lining blouse always keep ¼” to ½” extra on shoulder and side seam to join lining. Cut main fabric and lining material same. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Mark all the darts and side seam allowance on the lining parts of the blouse. First join lining parts with the main fabric parts on shoulder and side seam. Neck shape, armhole shape and darts should be tacked with the hand needle for the convenience to stitch on machine because of two layer of material. Follow rest of the stitching instruction same as the type of the blouse cut.

GHAGHRA OR LAHENGA MEASUREMENT Measure ghaghra length from waist to ankle. There are different type of cuts and drapes of ghaghra or lahenga. GATHERED GHAGHRA For ghathered ghaghra cut 3” wide and waist + 2” length a strip of fabric for nefa. Adjust gather on the ghaghra according to nefa and keep 4” open on side seam. Finish side open with stitching a zip. Fold both the ends and one side edge of nefa and stitch. Place nefa on one corner of open on right side and continue to tack with full ghaghra till other end. Stitch with machine. Press the seam on front. Overlap the stitched edges on the joining of nefa and stitch just on joining. Fold the bottom edges of ghaghra and stitch. Stitch nada with s narrow and long strip of fabric and finish both the ends with bids hangings. Insert nada in the nefa part to finish the ghaghra. KALIDAR GHAGHRA For kalidar ghaghra required number of kali mark and cut. To draw and cut kali follow the same method of 8 piece of petticoat at page no. 83. Place all the kali according to desired design and stitch together. Finish nefa, side open, bottom and nada same as for gathered ghaghra. UMBRELLA CUT GHAGHRA For umbrella cut ghaghra fabric with maximum width is required. Draw the pattern same as umbrella frock skirt on page no. 78 and cut. Finish the bottom flair of ghaghra and stitch nefa same as for other ghaghra. Finish side open and stitch nada to insert to finish umbrella cut ghaghra. MARMAID CUT GHAGHRA Marmaid cut of ghaghra is narrow above the knee and bottom is flared. Slash method should be followed to cut this type of pattern of ghaghra. 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure full length of the ghaghra –1 ½”nefa width + 2”for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure ½ width of the fabric and mark the point. 0-4 & 2-5 =Measure 1/4th of total length of ghaghra and mark the point. Join 4-5 with a straight line. X =Measure a center point of 0-2. From X-6 & X-7 Measure 1/4th of the waist girth + ½” to ¾” and mark the point. Join 4-6 and 5-7. Divide 4-5 in equal number of parts required and mark 8-9-10-11 & 12. Same way measure and mark 13-14-15-16 & 17 and mark the points to join with above points with straight lines. Now cut slash on 8-13, 9-14, 10-15, 11-16 & 12-17. Place this pattern on another paper and redraw the outline of 0-4-5-2 as it is. Spread the bottom flair on 1-13-14-15-16-17-3 in equal distance as shown in below figure. Draw new flair shape on 1-3 and join with 4-5 with shape. Stitching method of this ghaghra is same as umbrella ghaghra.

108

GATHERED GHAGHRA

UMBRELLA CUT GHAGHRA

KALIDAR GHAGHRA

MARMAID CUT GHAGHRA

109

WOMEN’S SHIRT MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED LENGTH = up to lower waist or as per choice BUST = as per size WAIST = girth HIP = girth WAIST LENGTH = up to middle waist SHOULDER = width SLEEVES LENGTH =full or half as per choice ELBOW =girth BACK PART 0-1 =Measure full length + 2” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1 ½”for ease + 1”for seam and mark the point for the width of the shirt. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 & 2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th bust – ½” for armhole length and mark the point. 4-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ½” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ¾” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th bust for neck width and mark the point. Join 6-7. 7-8 =Measure ½” up ward for back neck for collar and mark the point. Join 8-6. Draw a curve shape on 0-8 with the help of the French curve for back neck shape. 4-9 =Measure 1/4th bust + 1 ½”for ease + 1”seam and mark the point. 0-10 =Measure waist length and mark the point. 10-11 =Measure 1/4th waist + 1”for ease + 1”for dart + 1” for seam and mark the point. Join 9-11-3 as per shape. 0-12 =Measure 1/4th bust +1” for dart and mark the point. 12-13 =Measure 3 ¾” for the apex point of bust for dart and mark the point. 10-14 =Measure and mark same as 12-13. 14-15 =Measure and mark same as 13-14. 14-16 & 14-17 =Measure ½”+ ½” for dart width. Join 13-16-15 & 13-17-15 for dart shape. 5-6-18 =Draw a straight line on armhole of the shirt. Measure and mark 19 as center point of 5-18. Draw curve shape on 19-9 with the help of French curve to draw back armhole shape. Cut back part of shirt on 0-8-6-19-9-11 & 3 as per shape.

110

FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure full length + 2” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-A & 1-B =Measure 1 ½” extra outside for front placket and mark the point. Join A-B as a straight line. 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 4-9, 10-11, 0-12, 12-13, 10-14, 14-15, 14-16 & 14-17 points are same as for back part. 0-8 =Measure same as 1/12th bust + ¼” and mark the point. Join 7-8 as V shape. 13-18 =Measure 1” down for front dart shape and mark the point. Join 18-16-15 & 18-17-15 for front dart shape. Measure 19 as center point of 7-8 on neck shape and mark the point. From 19 measure ¼” inside and mark the point. Draw front neck shape on 8-19-7 with curved shape. 5-6-20 is the points in a straight line on armhole. Measure and mark 21 as a center point of 5-20 and mark the point. Measure ½” inside on 21-22 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-22-9. Cut front part on 8-7-6-22-9-11 & 3 as per shape. SLEEVES See page 23, 24 & 26 for full sleeve with cuff. COLLAR See page no.20 for shirt collar. Cut one back part, two front part and two sleeves. Two pieces of collar is required. Draw dart shape on front and back parts and mark seam line on wrong side of shirt. SEWING INSTRUCTION Tack front placket with the hand needle. Stitch front and back darts. Join front and back shoulder on 8-7 & 6-8. Place two collar pieces front to front inside and stitch on wrong side to join together, see page 20. Join together sleeves and shirt. Fold the bottom edges of shirt and stitch. Stitch buttons with holes on front placket to finish the shirt.

LADIES TROUSER MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED LENGTH = waist to ankle HIP = girth WAIST = girth CROCHET LENGTH = 1/3rd hip BOTTOM = as per choice FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure full length of the trouser – belt width + 1 ½” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure crochet length and mark the point. 2-3 =Measure as 0-2 – 2” and mark the point. 2-4 =Measure 1/4th of hip and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure same as 2-4 and mark the point. Draw a square 0-2-4-5. 4-6 =Measure 2 ¼” to 2 ½” outside and mark the point. Draw a straight line on 5-4.

111

7 =Mark a center point of 4-5. Draw crochets shape on 5-7-6 with French curve. 8 =Mark a center point of 0-5 for front pleat. 8-9 and 8-10 =Measure and mark ¾” each for pleat 11 =Mark a center point of 2-6. 3-12 and 1-13 =Mark same as 2-11. Join 11-12-13 a straight line. 13-1 and 13-15 =Measure and mark ½ bottom + ½”for seam. 1-16 =Measure ½” outside and mark the point. Join 2-16 with shape. 0-17 =Measure 1 ½” and mark the point. 0-18 =Measure 2 ½” and mark the point. Join 17-18 with curve shape. BACK PART Redraw front part with same point and shape respectively. 5-8 =Measure 1 ½” upside and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure 1/4th of waist + 2 ½” and mark the point. Join 0-8 as per shape. 9 =Mark as a center point of 0-8. On 9 and 10 measure ½” each side, means 1” on 9 and 1” on 10, and mark the point for waist dart for back. Length of the dart will be 2 ½”. Draw the dart shape. Mark 11,12,13,14 points same as in front part. 14-16 & 15-17 extend by ½” out side and mark the point. 6-18 =Extend by 2” outside and mark the point. Join 8-18-16-17 as per shape. 0-19, 2-20, 3-21 & 1-22 extend outside by ½” and mark the point. Join 0-19-21-22 with shape. Cut back part on 22-21-20-19-0-8-18-17-16 as per shape. WAIST BELTS 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure width of waist belt one is 1 ½” and the other is 2 ½” width. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ waist + ½” and mark the point. 4 =Measure and mark as a center point of 0-2. 4-5 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. 6 = Measure and mark as a center point of 1-3. 6-7 =Measure ½” out side and mark the point. Draw shape on 0-5-2 and 1-7-3. ZIP STRIP 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure1/3rd hip – 2” for the length of the strip and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 2” for the width of the strip and mark the point. On 3 mark a ½” inside and draw shape.

112 Cut two front parts, two back parts, three pieces of zip strips and two pieces of each waist belt with one piece of buckram of narrow belt. For side seam pocket lining fabric is required. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch back darts and tack front pleat with hand needle. Stitch zip on two front parts, see page no.14-15. Stitch side seam pockets or patch pockets on 17-18-2, see page no.13. Join side parts of trouser on 2-316 and 20-21-22. Join inner leg parts of front and back on 6-7-5 and 8-18. Fold one side edges of wide waist belts on 1-7-3 and stitch. Join one narrow and one wide waist belts together on 1-0-6-2. Turn and press the seam. Place the buckram piece in between the two waist belt and stick with hot iron by matching to joining seam. Match the narrow waist belt with point 5 of front and join towards back up to 8. Repeat same for another side. Press the seam by turning wide belt piece on wrong side. Stitch just on the joining of belt from right side to stitch wide waist belt on wrong side belt. Fold the bottom of the trouser and stitch. Finish trouser with stitching a hook on front waist belt.

MEN’S GARMENTS PLAIN PYJAMA FOR GENTS MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED HIP = as per size SEAT = chest + 1” or 2” WAIST = as per size LENGTH = as per measurement BOTTOM = as per choice 0-1 =Measure full length of pajama + 2” for bottom fold + 2” fold on waist for elastic and mark a point. 0-2 =Measure 1/3rd hip – 1” for crochet length and mark the point. 0-3 & 2-4 =Measure 1/4th hip + 2” to 2 ½” and mark the point. Join 3-4 as a straight line. 4-5 =Measure 1 ½” outside and mark the point. 1-6 =Measure 1/4th of hip + ½” for the bottom of the pajama and mark the point. Join 5-6. 7 =Mark as the center point of 3-4. 4-8 =Measure 1” outside on cross and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 7-8-5 with French curve. Cut front part on paper on 0-3-7-8-5-6 and place on another paper and redraw the outline. Remove front part and extend few points to get back part.

113 BACK PART 5-9 =Measure 1 ½”outside and mark the point. 6-10 =Measure 1” outside and mark the point. Join 9 10 with shape. 3-11 =Measure ½”inside and mark the point. Join 9-11with shape and extend up to 12 by 1 ¼”. Join 012 with shape. 13 =Measure and mark a center point of 3-7. 13-14 =Measure ½” and draw shape on 12-14-9. Cut back part on 0-12-14-9-10. Cut two front and two back parts. Pockets are on choice. Side seam pockets can be attached. Cut a 2” width strip for the waist according to measurement of pajama. SEWING INSTRUCTION First stitch pockets, if there is any. Join front and back sides on 0-2-1. Join inner legs of front and back on 5-6 and 9-10. Fold one side edges of waist strip and stitch. Join on waist part and stitch by keeping a small opening to insert elastic. Fold bottom edges and stitch. Insert 1” width of elastic by measuring 1/3rd of waist girth and insert on waist line. Join both the ends of the elastic.

PANT TYPE PAJAMA MEASUREMENTS SAME AS FOR PLAIN PAJAMA FRONT 0-1 =Measure full length – belt width + 1 ½” bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/3rd hip – 1”and mark the point. 0-3 & 2-4 =Measure 1/4th hip + 1”and mark the point. Join 3-4 as a straight line. 4-5 =Measure 1 ½”outside and mark the point. 6 =Measure and mark as a center point of 3-4. 4-7 =Measure on cross 1” outside and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 6-7-5 with French curve. 1-8 =Measure 1/4th hip for the bottom flair +1 ½” and mark the point. Join 5-8. 3-9 =Measure 1/4th of waist + 2” and mark the point. 0-10 =Measure and mark 7” down for the opening of the side seam pocket. Join 9-10. 1-11 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point for shape. Join 2-11. 12 =Mark as the center point of 3-9 for pleat. 2-13 & 11-14 is same as 9-12. Cut front part on 11-2-10-9-3-6-7-5-8. Place front part on another paper and draw outline for back.

114

BACK PART 3-15 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. 5-16 =Measure 2 ½” outside and mark the point. Join 16-15 and extend up to 17 by 1” upside. 8-18 =Measure ½” outside and mark the point. Join 16-18 with shape. 19 is the center point of 3-12 for 2 ½” length dart for back. Cut back part on 11-2-10-9-17-15-16-18. POCKET 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 1/3rd hip + 4” for the length of the pocket and mark the point. 0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 1/4th waist – 1 ½” for the width of the pocket and mark the point. 1-4 and 3-5 =Measure and mark 1 ½” upside. 6 =Mark as a center point of 1-3. Draw shape on 4-6-5 WAIST BAND 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 2” and 2 ½” for the width of the two piece of waist band. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ waist + 2” and mark the point. 4 =Mark as the center point of 0-2. 4-5 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. 6 = Mark as the center point of 1-3 6-7 =Measure ½”outside and mark the point. Draw shape on 0-5-2 and 1-7-3 ZIP STRIP 0-1 And 2-3 =Measure 1/3rd hip – 2” for the length of the strip and mark the point. 0-2 And 1-3 =Measure 2” for the width of the strip and mark the point. 3-4 =Measure 1” upside for shape and mark the point. Draw curve shape on 1-4. Cut two front parts, two back parts, two pockets, two pieces of each waist bands and three pieces of zip strip. Buckram can be inserting in waist band. A 7”length zip is required and a pair of hook for waist. SEWING INSTRUCTION Stitch darts on back on 12 & 19. Tack pleats on 12 on front with the hand needle. Stitch pockets on 910-2, see page no.13. Follow the instructions to stitch zip on front as given in the page no. 14-15. Join two sides of front and back on 10-2-11. Join inner legs on 5-8 and 16-18. Join front and back seat on 1716 & 3-7-5. Fold one side edges of wide waist belts on 1-7-3 and stitch. Join one narrow and one wide waist belts together on 1-0-6-2. Turn and press the seam. Place the buckram piece in between the two waist belt and stick with hot iron by matching to joining seam. Match the narrow waist belt with point 5 of front and join towards back up to 8. Repeat same for another side. Press the seam by turning wide belt piece on wrong side. Stitch just on the joining of belt from right side to stitch wide waist belt on wrong side belt. Fold the bottom of the pajama and stitch. Finish pajama with stitching a hook on front waist.

GENTS KURTA MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED LENGTH = Down to knee or as per choice CHEST = Circumference SHOULDER = Width SLEEVE LENGTH = Full sleeve length SLEEVES BOTTOM = Circumference NECK = 1/3rd of chest + 2 ½” to 3” 0-1 =Measure full length of kurta + 1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 4” for the width of the kurta as bottom flair and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a block 0-1-3 & 2.

115 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ of chest – 1” and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure ½ of shoulder + ½” and mark the point. 6-7 =Measure 1 ½”down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-6 =Measure 1/12th chest for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 7-8.

0-9 =Measure 1/12th of chest -1” for back neck and mark the point for round neck shape and ½” down for mandarin collar and mark the point. 0-10 =Measure 1/12th of chest + 1” for front neck length for round neck shape. Measure 1/12th of chest for mandarin collar and mark the point. 0-11 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1” for the front open of the kurta and mark the point. 4-12 =Measure 1/4th chest + 2” and mark the point. 12-13 =Draw a straight line or measure 5-13 same as 4-12. Join 12-13. 13-14 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point for shape. Join 12-14-3 with shape. 14-15 =Measure 2” down and mark a point for side pocket. 15-16 =Measure 16th of chest for the opening of the pocket. 16-17 =Measure ½ of 15-16 and mark the point. 17-3 is the open for the side slit. 3-18 =Measure 1” upside for shape and mark the point. 3-19 =Measure 2 ½” on bottom flair for shape and mark the point. Draw shape on 18-19. 20 =Mark a meeting point of 9, 10 & 8. Draw curve shape for back and front neck with French curve. 6-7-21 is a straight line on armhole. Mark 22 as a center point of 6-21. Draw back armhole shape on 722-12 with French curve. Measure ½” inside on 22-23 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 7-23-12 with French curve. Cut back part on 9, 8, 7, 22, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 & 1. Cut front part on 10, 8, 7, 23, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 & 1. SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure full length of sleeves + 1” and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest for the width of the sleeve and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2. Draw a rectangle 0-1-3-2 4 = Mark as a centre point of 0-2. 5 =Mark as a centre point of 0-4. 2-6 =Measure and mark same as 0-4. 5-7 =Measure and mark ¼”inside.

116 4-8 = Measure and mark ½” inside. 8-9 =Measure and mark 1 ¼” inside. 3-10 =Measure 1” inside and mark the point for sleeve bottom. Join 6-10. 10-11 & 10-12 =Measure 1” and mark the points for shape. Draw curve shape on 11-12. Join 0-7-8-6 for back armhole shape. Join 7-9-6 for front armhole shape. Cut full sleeve on 0-7-8-6-1211. Open the sleeve and cut front armhole shape on 7-9-6. POCKET 0-1and 2-3 =Measure ½ chest + 1” length of the pocket and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/8th chest – ¾” for the width of the pocket and mark the point. 2-4 =Measure 1 ½” down for shape. Join 0-4. 5 =Measure centre point of 2-3 + 1” more on 3-5. 6 =Measure centre point of 4-5. 6-7 =Measure and mark ½” inside for shape. Join 4-7-5. STAND COLLAR 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 1 ¼” to 1 ½” for the height of the collar and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/6th chest + 1” for the width of the collar. 4 =Mark a centre point of 0-2. 5 =Mark a centre point of 1-3. 3-6 =Measure ½” upside and mark the point. Join 5-6. 2-7 =Measure ½” upside and mark the point. Join 4-7. Draw curved shape on 2-4. Mark ¼” all around the collar 1-5-6-2-4-0 extra for seam allowance. STRIPES FOR BUTTON Length of the stripes is neck + 1”. One strip is 1 ½” width and another is 2 ½” width. Cut one front, one back, two sleeves, two pockets, two stripes for button and two pieces of collar. Cut one buckram piece of collar without seam allowance. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Cut a slit at the centre front on 10-11 for front open. Finish front open with plackets; see kurta placket instruction on page no.15. Join front and back shoulders. To stitch mandarin collars see the instructions on page no. 21. To finish round collar cut bias strips with ¾” width and stitch around the neck from front side. Press the seam and turn the strip towards wrong side and finish with hem.

Fold the 5-3 part of the pocket and stitch to make pocket bag. Place two side pockets on both sides of the kurta as shown in the figure and tack with hand needle on 5-4-14-4-5-16-5. Stitch with machine or finish with hem. Fold the bottom edges of the sleeves and stitch or hem. Join two sleeves. Join sides of the kurta on 12-14-15 and 16-17. Fold the edges of side open and bottom flair and stitch. Mark the buttonholes on front open and stitch. Stitch buttons on front to finish the kurta.

117

NIGHT SUIT MEASUREMENTS AS PER SIZE LENGTH = shirt length CHEST = circumference SHOULDER = width NECK = circumference SLEEVE LENGTH = full FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure full length + 1” and mark the point. 0-A and 1-B =Measure and mark 1 ½” extension for placket. Draw straight line on 0-1 and A-B. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½”ease + ½”seam for the width of the shirt and mark the point. 0-3 =Measure and mark same as 0-2. Draw a block 0-1-3-2. 0-4 =Measure 1/4th chest for armhole length and mark the point. 0-5 =Measure ½ shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 5-6 =Measure ¾” down for shoulder shape and mark the point. 0-7 =Measure 1/12th chest for the width of the neck and mark the point. Join 6-7. 0-8 =Measure 1/12th chest for front neck length and mark the point. Join 7-8.

4-9 =Measure width of the shirt and mark the point. 5-6-10 is a straight line. Mark 11 as a center point of 5-10. Measure ½” inside on 11-12 and mark the point. Draw front armhole shape on 6-12-9 with the help of the French curve. 13 =Mark a center point of 7-8. Measure ½” inside on 13-14 and draw smooth V shape on 8-14-7. BACK PART 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7 points are same as in front part of night suit shirt. 7-8 =Measure ½” upside for back neck and mark the point. Join 0-8-6. 4-9, 5-6-10, 11 points are same as in front. Draw back armhole shape on 11-9. FULL SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure sleeves length + ¾” for bottom fold and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest for the width of the sleeve and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a rectangle block on 0-1-3-2. 4 =Mark a center point of 0-2. 5 =Mark a centre point of 0-4. 2-6 =Measure and mark same as 2-4.

118 5-7 =Measure ¼” inside and mark a point. 4-8 =Measure ½”inside and mark a point. 8-9 =Measure 1 ¼”inside and mark a point. 3-10 =Measure 1” inside and mark a point. Join 6-10. Join 0-7-8-6 for back armhole shape. Join 7-9-6 for front armhole shape. COLLAR 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 3 ½” for the height of the collar and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure ½ neck + ¼”for the width of the collar and mark the point. 4 =Mark as a centre point of 0-2. 5 =Mark as a centre point of 1-3. 3-6 & 2-7=Measure ½”upside and mark the point. 7-8 =Measure 1”outside and mark a point. Join 4-7-8-6-5 as per shape. Mark ¼” extra on outside of 0-47-8-6-5-1 for seam. Cut one back part, two front parts, two sleeves, two pieces of collar and pockets as per choice. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Fold A-B of both the front part for placket and tack with hand needle. Place the pocket and stitch on the front part, if there is any, see page no.12 for patch pocket stitching instruction. Join front and back shoulder on 7-6 and 8-6. Join the two piece of collar together on 0-4-7-8-6. Press the seam and turn and stitch on edges on right side. Match the centre back point with the centre of the collar and join collar. Fold the bottom of the sleeves on 1-4. Join sleeves with the shirt. Stitch on the sides along with the sleeves on 4-10 to 7-8. Fold the bottom of the shirt and stitch. To finish the night suit shirt mark the points for buttonholes and buttons. Stitch buttonholes and buttons. For the bottom with the night suit shirt plain pajama is given in previous pages.

FORMAL SHIRT MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED LENGTH = as per size CHEST = circumference SHOULDER = width NECK = circumference FULL SLEEVE LENGTH FRONT PART Pattern drafting of front part of the formal shirt is same as front part of night suit shirt. BACK PART For back part 0-1, 0-2, 1-3, 0-4, 0-5, 5-6, 0-7, 0-8, 4-9 and 5-6-10 points will be same as for front part. 11 =Mark a center point of 5-10. Draw back armhole shape with French curve on 11-9. 4-12 & 10-13 =Measure 1 ½” upside and mark the points. Join 12-13 as a straight line. 13-14 =Measure ½” down and mark the point. Join 12-14. 6-14 =Measure ½” outside and mark the point. Join 7-15 & 15-14 with shape for yoke of the shirt. POCKET 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 1/6th of chest – ¼”+ 1 ½”for fold as the length of the pocket and mark the point. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 1/6th chest – ¼” for the width of the pocket and mark the point. 0-4& 2-5 = 1 ½” for fold. Join 0-1-3-2 and 4-5. SLEEVES 0-1 =Measure ½ chest + 4” for the length of the sleeve and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest for the width of the sleeve and mark the point.

119 .

1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and draw a rectangle block on 0-1-3-2. 4 =Mark a center point of 0-2. 5 =Mark a centre point of 0-4. 2-6 =Measure and mark same as 2-4. 5-7 =Measure ¼” inside and mark a point. 4-8 =Measure ½”inside and mark a point. 8-9 =Measure 1 ¼”inside and mark a point. 3-10 =Measure 1” inside and mark a point. Join 6-10. Join 0-7-8-6 for back armhole shape. Join 7-9-6 for front armhole shape. Mark 11 as a center point of 1-10. Measure 11-12 upside 1/6th of chest for the open slit with cuff. SLEEVE CUFF 0-1 and 2-3 =Measure 2 ½”length of the cuff and mark the point. 0-2 and 1-3 =Measure 1/8th chest + 2 ½” for the width of the cuff and mark the point. 2-4 & 2-5 =Measure ½” each and mark the points. Draw curved shape on 4-5. SLEEVE PLACKET 0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 5”+ cuff length and mark the point. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure one 1 ½” width and the other is 2 ½” width. COLLAR For shirt collar pattern with stand see page no.20. Cut two front part, one back part, two piece of back yoke, two sleeves, four piece of cuff, two piece of narrow and two piece of wide sleeves placket, two piece of collar, two piece of stand and one piece of buckram as per collar shape and one piece of buckram as per stand shape without seam allowance. One strip of buckram of 1 ½”width is required for front placket as per length of the shirt. Six buttons are required to stitch. STITCHING INSTRUCTION Fold the placket part of right hand side front and tack with hand needle. Insert the buckram strip inside the placket of left hand side part of front and stitch two parallel seams. Fold the pocket on 4-5 and stitch. Place pocket on right hand side part, 2” away from placket and 1 ½” up from armhole point. Stitch the pocket. Place back part in between the two pieces of yoke and stitch on 1-3. Turn and press the seam. Join front and back shoulder together. Place the buckram piece of collar on the two pieces of collar and join together. Insert the buckram piece of stand inside the two pieces of stand and join with the collar. Place the collar on the neck part of the shirt and stitch together. Join sleeves placket. (See chapter 2) Join two pieces of cuff together on 0-2-3. Make two small pleats of ½” width on the wide placket side of the sleeves, tack with hand needle. Join sleeves cuff. Mark a small notch on the centre of the sleeves

120 armhole and shoulder of shirt. Match together and join sleeves on two armhole sides of shirt. Join two sides of sleeves along with the shirt side seam on 10-9 and 7-8. Fold the bottom of the shirt and stitch. Stitch buttonholes on the front placket and buttons on the opposite side of the front part to finish the shirt.

FORMAL TROUSER MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED LENGTH = as per size WAIST = circumference SEAT = circumference KNEE = girth BOTTOM FRONT PART 0-1 =Measure 1/3rd seat – belt width for the length of the trouser and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/3rd of hip and mark the point. 0-3 =Measure 1/4th waist + 2” for pleats or dart and mark the point. 2-4 =Measure and mark same as 0-3. Join 3-4 as a straight line. 4-5 =Measure 1/12th of hip – ½” and mark the point. 6 =Mark as a center point of 3-4. Draw a curve shape on 6-5 with the help of French curve. 3-7 =Measure ½” down and mark the point. Join 0-7. 0-8 =Measure ½”inside for shape and mark the point. 0-9 =Measure 1/4th of hip and mark the point. Join 8-9 with shape. 10 =Measure and mark as a center point of 2-5. Measure and mark 0-11, 14-12 and 1-13 point same as 2-10. Join 11-10-12-13 as a straight line. 14 =Mark as a center point of 2-1 and mark 15 as a center point of 5-17. 13-16 & 13-17 =Measure 1/4th of bottom girth measurement + ½” and mark the points. Join 2-16 and 515-17 as per shape. 11-18 =Measure 1” for front pleat and mark the point. Cut front part on 16-2-9-8-7-6-5-15-17. Place front paper pattern on another paper and draw outline to draw extension on few points to get back part.

121 BACK 5-19 =Extend 2” to 2 ½” and mark the point. 0-8 =Measure ¼” upside and mark the point. 18 =Mark as the center point of 8-11 for dart. Measure dart length as 1/4th hip + ½” and mark the point. 6-20 =Measure 1” upside and mark the point. 3-21 =Measure ½” inside and mark the point. Join 19-20-21 with shape and extend 21-22 by 1 ½” Join 8-22 with shape. 17-23 =Measure and mark 1” outside. Join 19-23 as per shape. Cut back part on 16-2-9-8-22-21-20-19-23. Cut side seam pockets, waist band, zip strip same as in pant type pajama in page no.110. Cut front and back, each two parts. Draft side pockets, waist belts and zip strip same as given for pant type pajama. Cut all parts as per instruction, given in the same drafting. SEWING INSTRUCTION Take two front parts and attach zip with zip strips on 3-7-6-5 (see page no.14-15). Slash pocket can be stitched on back part on 18 after stitching dart, see slash pocket instruction on page no. 12. Mark 2” down on 8 on front part and join side pockets on both side seam area with front and back together (see page no. 13). Join two sides of front and back legs on 9-2-16. Join inner leg parts of front and back on 515-17. Join seat area of trouser on 22-20-19 on back along with 5-6 of front part. Take 1” wide and 12 ½” length narrow strip of fabric and fold both side edges towards center and stitch. Cut 5 equal pieces of 2 ½” lengths for the loops for the belt. Place loop on two front parts and three on back waist part with one at the center back waist by folding the edge and stitch. Join waist belt on 8-7 on front along with 822 on back waist. Stitch other folded edge of loops on waist belt. Fold the bottom of trouser on 16-13-17 along with16-13-23 and stitch. Stitch a hook on waist belt end to finish the trouser.

122

GLOSSARY ABSORBENCY A fabrics ability to absorb moisture is called absorbency. This can be particularly important when making sporting garments and also when water repellency and stain removal abilities are required of a fabric. A LINE A style of sloping cut in the sides of garment. ALTER To make a revision or change to a garment or pattern in order to suit individual sizes or needs. ALLOWANCE Extra fabric to be taken outside the seam line or within the garment to accommodate gathers, ease, tucks and pleats. APPAREL Apparel means the general term which describes clothing/garments. APPLIQUE The method of sewing a piece of fabric on top of another after a small piece of the fabrics edge has been folded under to create a clean edge. A tight zigzag stitch (satin stitch) can be used with a machine or blind stitching if done by hand. ARMSCYE Another word used for Armhole. ARROW Arrows are used as symbols on paper patterns to indicate lengthwise grain, stitching direction and also the direction for folding pleats and tucks. AWL A sewing tool used for pushing out the inner corners of a turned-in fabric with its pointed tip. Awl is useful for making collars. BACKING A term typically used for the fabric used as the back layer of a quilt. Backing is also used to describe the fabric layer used inside a vest etc. BACKSTITCH Backstitch is used both at the beginning and at the end of a row of stitching to anchor the thread. This involves running the sewing needle back and forth a few times to reinforce the stitches so that they do not come loose.

123 BANDS Strips of fabric applied to edges in to garments to finish or decorate. BANDING Another word used for Binding BAR TACK A type of stitching often used in buttonhole making or to attach a belt loop or similar item. It is a group of zigzag stitches formed very close together. BASTING The use of temporary stitches to hold your work in place until the permanent stitching is completed. These are usually large long stitches and are removed when the project is complete. BELL SLEEVE Bell sleeve is a straight sleeve with bottom flair. BERMUDA Bermuda is a tight narrow short reaching the top of the knee. BERTHA A wide flat collar usually rounded at its outer edges. BIAS Bias is a diagonal line that runs across the fabric. This is the most stretch area of the fabric. BIAS BINDING/TAPE Strips of fabric which are cut on the bias, turned under, pressed, and used where stretch is needed or accommodation to curves. BINDING Binding is a row of folds sitting in alternate directions. The extra fabric in-between the folds can be shown either at the front or the back depending on the desired effect. BLIND STITCH A form of hemming made by catching only one thread of the outer fabric. BROCADE Brocade is an exquisite heavy jacquard type fabric with a raised pattern or design. Brocade fabric is usually applied to formal applications like upholstery, drapes and sometimes eveningwear. BUCKRAM Strong jute or cotton fabric used for stiffening items such as the brims of baseball caps or also used in some drapery projects. It is sometimes impregnated with glue.

124 BUTTONHOLE A slit made in the fabric to allow a button to pass through in order to close a garment. The slit is bound using a special buttonhole stitch to stop the fabric from fraying. CAP Cap is a top part of a sleeve which curved to fit to armhole. CAP SLEEVE Extension of the shoulder on the top of the armhole which looks shape of the cap. CALENDERING Calendaring is a method for applying special effects such as embossing, glazing, high luster and moire to finish fabric. CALICO Calico is a cotton type fabric with a tight weave. It is commonly used to make aprons, quilts and dresses. This fabric is also often used in doll-making. CASHMERE Cashmere is a luxurious fiber that is obtained from the soft fleece of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, India, Mongolia, Iran, Iraq and China. It is commonly used to make shawls, sweaters, suits, coats and dresses. CASING A type of fabric channel formed for the purpose of holding waistband elastic or drawstrings in place on slacks or sweatpants. The same method can also be used in furnishings such as a channel being created to hold either a curtain rod or a length of dowelling. CENTER FRONT Center part of the garment of front part. CHALK Chalk is used to mark fabric to show the location of darts, buttonholes, pleats, and other construction lines. CHAMBRAY A plain woven fabric made from cotton, silk or man-made fibers. It incorporates a colored warp (usually blue) and white filling yarns. CHIFFON A lightweight plain woven fabric that is extremely sheer, airy and silky. It contains highly twisted filament yarns, often from rayon and other man-made fibers. Commonly this fabric is used in evening dresses and scarves. CLASSIC STYLE A style which is re-used with only minor modifications through many changes of fashion.

125 CLIP A small cut in the seam allowances of a garment which allows a corner or curved area to turn and lie flat. CLOSING Closing is a placket or garment opening. COMBED COTTON Combed cotton is smoother, stronger, finer and more compact than carded cotton. It has had all the short fibers and impurities removed. CONTOUR A contour is a curve. Contours can be used in the making of a waistline e.g. the waistband is cut on a curve versus a straight band. This will allow a better fit. CORDING Another word used for Piping. This is the method whereby woven or twisted rope is inserted to act as a drawstring in hooded jackets, waistbands etc. CORDUROY A fabric that utilizes a cut-pile weaves construction. COSTUME A particular style of garment belongs to a given country, time and class. COUCHING Couching is performed by sewing decorative thread, yarn or cord to a fabrics surface using a zigzag stitch on your machine or overcastting by hand. CRIMPING This is a technique used to ease fabric into the seam line. CUTTING LINE This is the outermost dark line found on a paper pattern. You can either cut directly on the line or just outside of it but always remain consistent with your cutting method. DARN Darning is the method used to repair holes in a garment using stitching that runs back and forth over the hole in order to fill it. Socks are commonly repaired with this method. You can also use special darning tools to help keep your fabric taut whilst being repaired. DART Darts are V-shaped adjustments to a pattern that allow for extra fullness in a garment (for example in the bust area of a top) or alternatively for less fullness (for e.g. in the waist or back area).

126 DENIM Twill weaves cotton-like fabric that is made with different colored yarns in the weft and the warp. Because of the way it is constructed one color is more predominant on the fabric surface. Typically jeans shorts and jackets are made of this durable fabric. DIRECTIONAL STITCHING Stitches applied in a particular direction to maintain the shape of the pattern. DOLMAN SLEEVES Dolman sleeve is a style of sleeves with a very low and loose armhole. DRAPES Another name used for Curtains. This word can also describe the way a fabric hangs on the body. DRESS FORM A dummy figure of human to display fitting and drape of a garment. DROPPED SHOULDER Dropped shoulder is a design whereby the shoulder is extended over the top of the arm. DURABILITY This is a fabrics ability to resist wear through regular use. EASE A sewing technique used when you are attempting to make one piece of fabric fit onto another by pulling in the extra fabric, whilst avoiding puckering or gathering. This technique allows for a proper fit and better movement in a garment. EDGE STITCH A stitch applied just 1/8" from the seamed or folded edge. EMBELLISH Embellish is a technique whereby you add decorative stitching, appliqués or other decorations to your project. The end result is only limited by your creativity. EMBOSSING Embossing is a process whereby a fabric is engraved under pressure with heated rollers to produce a raised design on the surface of the fabric. EMBROIDERY The process whereby a fabric or garment is embellished with coloured threads being sewn onto it to create a design. This can be done by hand or by machine. ETON COLLAR Eton collar is a kind of collar with a very slight roll.

127 EXTENSION Additional fabric jutting out beyond a seam line. EYELET EMBROIDERY A fabric which contains patterned cut-outs (usually round or oval) that are stitched or embroidered around to prevent the fabric from unraveling. FACE The right side of the fabric is called face. FACING Facing is a fabric piece which is sewn into the cuffs, collar, front opening, or arms eye of a hem to give a finished effect. FEED DOG These are the teeth under the sewing machine plate that help move the fabric as it is being sewn. FELT Felt is non-woven fabric that is made from wool, fur hair, and/or man-made fibers. Instead of being woven together the fibers are held together in a process using heat, moisture and the application of pressure. FIBRE The basic unit, either man-made or natural, that is twisted into yarns and then used for the production of fabric. FINDINGS Any items such as buttons, hooks, snaps or embellishments that are added to a garment during the manufacturing process are called findings. FINGER PRESSING The action of using your hands to open a seam and rubbing/pressing the seam open with your fingers. Finger pressing is commonly used on small areas of a garment. FINISH (AN EDGE) Turn under 1/4" of fabric and stitch, or serge the edge. Doing either of these finishes will stop the fabric from raveling. FLAP A piece of fabric that hangs loose at one edge and another edge is attached with garment. For example; Pocket flaps. FLAT-FELLED SEAM Flat felled seam is created by sewing the wrong side of a fabric together; trimming one seam allowance very close to the seam, and the other seam is turned under and stitched over the other seam allowance. This reduces bulk in a seam. This seam is often used in the making of jeans.

128 FLARED Flared is the fullness of a garment. FOLD LINE This is the fold of a fabric (off the bolt) that you lay a pattern piece up against in order to avoid a seam running down the centre of your garment. FOOT This is the part of the sewing machine that sits above the feed dogs and presses down on the fabric as it is moved through the machine. There are many variations on the standard foot, for example a 'zipper foot. FRENCH CURVE French curve is a kind of tool that is used to create or alter curves on a sewing pattern.

FRILL Frill is a longer length of fabric that is gathered or pleated onto the edge of a fabric for decorative purposes. GATHERING Gathering enables a longer piece of fabric to be sewn onto a shorter piece of fabric. It is also a method used to ease a seam, allowing the insertion of sleeves and other rounded pieces of a pattern. It creates fullness by pulling fabric together. GINGHAM A plain weaved fabric with checked pattern. GEORGETTE Georgette is a lightweight, sheer fabric which is often made of silk or polyester. Dresses and blouses are often made of this crepe finish fabric. GODETS A shaped or pleated section of material inserted into a garment is called godets. GRADING (SEAMS) This is the action of trimming raw edges of a fabric (in graduating widths) to reduce the bulk of a curved edge. E.g. a facing seam allowance would be trimmed shorter on the facing part of the allowance and longer on the body seam allowance. GRAIN The direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage is called grain. GRAY GOODS An unfinished fabric just removed from loom.

129 GUSSET A piece of fabric that is sewn into a seam line in order to create decoration or fullness, for example, inserting a diamond shaped section of material to an underarm area of a dress allows more movement. HAIR CANVAS This is a type of good quality woven interfacing that is useful for areas like firm blazer rolled collars. HALTER NECK A garment without sleeves, the bodice being supported by a band or string passing around the neck or tied at the back of the neck. HAM This is a useful item for ironing curved areas of a garment for e.g. sleeves darts etc. It is "ham" shaped, tightly stuffed, and appropriately shaped to mold to curves. HAND Hand means the way that a fabric feels when it is touched. Various terms can be used like silky, soft, dry, and crisp. For example "this fabric has a very soft hand." HEADER Header is the extra fabric that is above a cased heading, forming a frill. HEM The area of fabric that is turned up and stitched on the lower section of a garment, allowing a clean finished edge is known as hem. Hemming can be performed to shorten pants that are too long or alternatively the hem can be lowered to allow more room for growth in children’s clothing. HERRINGBONE Twill weaves construction variation whereby the twill is broken or reversed at regular intervals so as to produce a zigzag effect. HONG KONG FINISH Hong-Kong finish is a kind of finish where bias binding has been enclosed within a seam. HOOK AND EYE CLOSURE This is a method employed to "close" sections of fabric using a metal hook on one side and a loop on the other. This is often seen in the construction of lingerie and also at the upper rear of some dresses and blouses. INSEAM Inseam is a seam that runs along the inside leg of pants, from the crotch to the hem. INSERTIONS Lace having two straight edges, used for inserting between the edges of two pieces of material, is called insertions.

130 INTERFACING To "mend" is to fix or repair a hole, split, tear, or other type of damage made to a garment. Depending on the severity of damage there are various methods you can use for e.g. machine or hand stitches can be used to "bind" small tears and splits. Iron-on and sew-on patches are useful for larger areas. INTERLINING Interlining is a soft fabric that is placed between the lining and the face fabric to help insulate. INVERTED PLEAT Inverted pleat is a kind of flat pleat with the extra fabric to the wrong side. INVISIBLE HEM A kind of hem stitch to attach lining and interfacing. KICK PLEATS Kick pleat is similar to box pleat, except the pleats are further a part as the folds do not butt together at the back. KIMONO SLEEVES Kimono sleeve is a sleeve cut all in one with the bodice. It may be of any length. It gives folds of extra fabric under the arm. It may be cut with or without a shoulder seam. KNIFE PLEATS Knife pleats are a row of fold running in the same direction. KNITTED FABRICS Fabrics, constructed by the inter-looping of yarn loops by the use of needles or more specifically a loop within a loop are called knitted. LAPEL Upper edge of a coat or blouse from that turns back, is called lapel. LAYOUT The arrangement of paper pattern of the garment on fabric for economical cutting. LEG’O MUTTON SLEEVES It is a kind of long fitting sleeves with gathered head. LINING A lining is used on the inside of a garment (for e.g. jackets and coats) to hide the inside construction and seams, and also to give a decorative effect. Usually lining is made of a silky type fabric to make the garment easier to put on. LOOP A type of fastening made by thread, cord or fabric strip which extends beyond the finished edge, used on closing with no overlap.

131

MACHINE EMBROIDERY Machine embroidery is a decorative type of stitching that can be created using a normal sewing machine or more effectively by using a special machine dedicated to embroidering. MANDARIN COLLAR A narrow standing collar with curved edges similar to Chinese collar. MARKING Marking is the process of transferring all necessary pattern lines or markings to the wrong side of the fabric. MEASURING TAPE A tape with marking of inches and centimeters to use to measure length and width of the fabric and measuring the different parts of the body for a particular type of garment. MEND To "mend" is to fix or repair a hole, split, tear, or other type of damage made to a garment. Depending on the severity of damage there are various methods you can use for e.g. machine or hand stitches can be used to "bind" small tears and splits. Iron-on and sew-on patches are useful for larger areas. MITERING Mitering is a method of folding the excess seam allowance to gain a sharper and less bulky corner. Often used for quilt corners, vests, jackets and occasionally on collars. MUSLIN A cloth used for making sheets. It has a thread count under 180 threads per inch. It is more loosely woven and coarser than percale. It is generally inexpensive and therefore often used to make trial garments before a more expensive fabric is used. NAP Nap is a one-way textural direction of a fabric, such as velvet or corduroy. When using these types of "fuzzy" fabrics with a nap all pieces must be cut with the nap running in the same direction. NEEDLE The two most common types of sewing machine needles are ball point and sharps. The ball point needle is usually used for knits, and basic sharp points are normally used for non-stretch, woven fabrics. There are many other types of sewing machine needles such as all purpose, wedge-point, perfect stitch, jean, wing and also twin and triple needles. See individual definitions for more information on each needle type. NOTCH This small cut in the seam allowance allows fabric to bend at corners and curves. On a paper pattern it is shown as a dark colored diamond.

132 NOTION Notions are items (apart from a sewing machine and fabric) that are used for sewing. Notion is also called findings and sundries. OVERCAST/OVERSTITCH This form of stitching is done to prevent a seam from raveling. OVERLOCK Another word used for serging. This is an overcast stitch that is used to prevent the fabric from raveling. You can buy an over lock machine that will cut and over lock in one step. PATTERN LAYOUT These are directions for the way you should lay out a pattern. PICOT Picot is a loop stitch along the edge of the fabric to form an edging. PINKING SHEARS These are a type of shear with a "vvvvw" shape along the cutting edge. Using these shears instead of normal straight edged fabric shears will lessen the fabric raveling. They can also be used for a decorative effect PINS Pins are used for holding paper patterns to fabric whilst you are cutting the fabric, and also to hold fabrics together whilst being stitched. Safety pins can be used to baste quilt layers together before the final quilting. Make sure you use good quality sharp pins to avoid large holes being left in your fabric. PINTUCK Pin tucks give a decorative, tailored appearance to a garment, often blouses. They are narrow, sewn rows of fabric that give a raised look to a garment. PIPING This is the method whereby woven or twisted rope is inserted to act as a drawstring in hooded jackets, waistbands etc. PIPING CORD A fabric covered cord that is inserted into an item to decorate or accentuate a seam. PIVOT Pivoting is the action of leaving the sewing machine needle in the fabric, raising the presser foot, turning the fabric on a 45 degree angle, lowering the presser foot and continuing to sew. This ensures the fabric stays put when you turn corners. PLACKET Placket is a v-shaped opening at the end of a sleeve. Before the cuff is attached it is finished with a bias strip.

133

PLEAT Pleat means a fabric fold that is only sewn at the top edge on a garment such as a skirt or slacks. The fold is formed outwards or inverted. POLO-NECK High, rolled collar worn close to the neck is called polo-neck. PRE-SHRINKING (also referred to as pre-washing) This term refers to laundering the fabric before you mark and cut out your pattern, so that the fabric shrinks to its ultimate size and shape before you work with it. PRESS Pressing is different to ironing. Pressing is the action of using a hot iron in a press/pick up/move/press/pick up/move action. Do not use a back and forth motion as you would when you "iron". Pressing is usually done in the creation of a garment. PRESSER FOOT The presser foot is the part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric as it is being fed through the feed dogs. You can buy various types of presser feet to do specialized tasks such as buttonholing, zig zagging, cording, zipper insertion and blind hemming. PRINCESS LINE Princess line is a seam line running from shoulder or armhole to the hem with no waist seam. PUCKER To draw up into folds and wrinkles. PUFF-SLEEVES It is design of sleeves having fullness, gathered into armhole and into a band or binding at the lower edge. RAGLON SLEEVES A sleeve style in which the armhole seams run up to the neck line, and giving a loose and comfortable fit. RAVEL Raveling can be performed intentionally to give the edge of the fabric a frayed/fringed appearance. Sew a tight seam any distance from the raw edge and pull the outside threads away. Unintentional raveling of raw edges can be avoided by finishing the raw edge with appropriate stitching to keep threads intact. RAW (EDGE) The raw edge is the edge of the fabric that is not finished or stitched.

134 REINFORCE (SEAM) To effectively reinforce a seam you need to sew very close next to it, but not on top of the seam. You could also use bias tape to reinforce a seam. A typical area of a garment that needs to be reinforced is the crotch seam. RIGHT SIDE The right side of the fabric is the side with the pattern or design. RIP It is a tool to open a seam by pulling out or cutting the stitching. RUFFLE Another name used for a Frill. RULER A good sewing ruler is clear plastic, 1/4" or less increments, 2" wide and 18" long. They're useful for measuring the placement of buttonholes, rotary cutting and pattern amendments. In conjunction with a solid ruler, an essential part of your sewing kit is a good measuring tape. RUNNING STITCH A running stitch is often used for basting, by running the thread over and under the fabric. It can also be used as the basis for a more decorative stitch. SALVAGE The woven outside edge of fabric which is unable to fray is known as salvage. This can have color matching dots or manufacturer information printed on it. SATIN STITCH This zigzag stitch is applied with a shortened stitch length so that the stitches look horizontal to each other. SAG The stretch that occurs in the bias grain of a garment after hanging or as the effect of strain on any part of a garment is called sagging. SCALLOP An edge finish made up of a series of semi circles, are called as scallop. SEAM A seam is a method of stitching two pieces of fabric together. SEAM ALLOWANCE The amount of extra fabric added to allow for a seam. This is the area between the cut edge and the seam stitching.

135 SEAM FINISH A finish applied to a raw edge to control ravel and fraying. SEAM LINE The stitching lines used for joining seams are known as seam line. SELVEDGE It is another name of salvage. SEPARATING ZIPPER This is a type of zipper that separates entirely. These are often found on jackets and sweaters. There is a metal or plastic tab at the bottom of the zipper for bringing both sides together and starting the zip. SERGER Serger is also called an over locker. This is a form of sewing machine that cuts off excess fabric and finishes the seam allowance in one motion. Most manufactured knit fabric garments have been edged with a serger. SHANK BUTTON A shank button is one that has space left between it and the fabric. They have a raised area on the back of the button which is used to sew it onto the fabric. A heavyweight jacket would require a deeper shanked button than a lighter weight jacket for instance. You can turn a normal button into a shanked button by wrapping thread under the button to create a shank. SHAWL COLLAR Shawl collar is a style of collar, cut in one piece with the front bodice and ending at the centre back, thus forming a kind of shawl over the shoulders. SHRINK Shrinkage occurs with some fabrics when they are washed and/or dried. This results in the fabric or garment becoming smaller. See "Pre-Shrinking" for ways to deal with this problem when constructing a garment. SIZING Sizing is a light starch finish that provides crispness to a fabric without feeling stiff. SILHOUETTE The outline of a dress is known as silhouette. SIZE The measurement classification within a figure type which allows for variation in a body measurement, such as bust, waist and hip are called as size. SLASH A fairly long cut made to a point or a corner is called slash.

136 SLIT Slits are often seen on skirts or back seams. They are an open part of the seam, usually at the bottom. SMOCK A straight garment with a gathered or smocked yoke is called smocking. SNIPS Snips are very small cutting tools, very much like scissors, but are only used for cutting threads. SPOOL Basically, a spool holds thread. They can be made of plastic, wood, cardboard tubing, etc. STAY-STITCH This stitching is applied about 1/8" inside the permanent line of stitching on a curved edge in order to keep it from distorting. Refer to the pattern to establish the direction of the stitching. STAND The part of the collar which extends upwards from the base of the neck and determines the height of the collar is called a stand. STITCH IN THE DITCH This is a type of under-stitching. To perform successfully, press the seam allowances to one side and top stitch as close as possible to the seam. This will hold the seam allowance down and keep the piece of fabric folded under. STITCH LENGTH The length of the stitch depends on the work you are doing, but in general 11-12 stitches are applied per inch. If you are gathering or basting then there is usually 6 stitches applied per inch. You will rarely ever need to have more than 12 stitches applied per inch. STRAIGHT STITCH This is stitching made up of single forward stitches. Most sewing machines use this as the standard. TACK/TACKING Tacking is applying temporary stitching to hold material pieces together until the final stitching is completed. TAILORS TACK Using two threads through a needle, draw the needle through all fabric layers (and paper pattern), and snipping off the thread, but leaving a "tail" of thread at the top and bottom of the fabric as a way of marking the piece. Use a contrasting color thread for easy identification. You can use this method to mark darts, buttonholes etc. TAPE MEASURE A tape measure is made of a flexible material, about 60" long, and has a (usually) metal tab at each end. Measurements are marked on both sides, sometimes both metric and imperial.

137

TAPER To decrease width gradually and bring to a point is called taper. TENSION The term tension is used in two areas of your sewing machine. The first being the bobbin tension (which doesn't usually need to be adjusted), the second being the thread tension. You should carefully refer to your machines instruction manual with regards to both tensions. THIMBLE Thimbles are used to protect your middle finger when hand sewing. They are available in many materials e.g. metal, wood, plastic, leather, ceramic. You wear the thimble on the hand that is actually using the needle to sew. THREAD Thread is the basis for sewing material together. It is usually the same (or complimentary) colour as your fabric. This thread should be used on both the spool as well as in the bobbin of your machine to avoid problems such as bunching and knotting from occurring. THREAD COUNT The actual number of threads used per inch in a woven fabric. TOP STITCH This is a row of stitching which is visible on the completed product. This stitching can be decorative or purely functional. It is usually applied about 1/4" from the edge of a seam. TRACING PAPER Tracing paper is used with a tracing wheel to mark your fabric with the ink-like substance that is on one side of the paper. TRACING WHEEL A tracing wheel is used in conjunction with tracing paper. Laying the ink-side of the tracing paper down on the fabric, roll the wheel across the paper where you want the fabric to be marked. Do not press too hard with the tracing wheel as you may cut through the paper or fabric. TRIM Trim can have two meanings. The first being the act of removing excess fabric or thread etc with scissors. The second meaning of trim is a decorative accessory added to a garment or item e.g. lace, ribbon etc. TUCK Tucks give a decorative, tailored appearance to a garment, often blouses. They are narrow, sewn rows of fabric that give a raised look to a garment. TURTLE NECK A high, rolled collar worn well away from the neck.

138 UNDER-STITCHING This form of stitching is applied as close to the seam line as possible to enable a piece of fabric to stay folded under. See "Stitch in the Ditch." UNDERLINING This is a lining that is used to add body to a garment. UNIVERSAL NEEDLE This sewing machine needle is used for knitted or woven fabrics. The needle has a slightly rounded tip. VIEW This term is used to describe the variations that are shown on most paper patterns. Each variation is referred to as a "view". WALKING FOOT This type of foot replaces the normal foot on your sewing machine, but it allows smoother sewing when you are stitching through several layers of fabric. It works in conjunction with the feed dogs below the fabric to help push the material through. Walking foot is also useful for slippery fabrics. WARP The threads that run down the length of a woven fabric are called warp. They can also be called the lengthwise grain. WEFT The threads that run across a woven fabric from selvedge to selvedge are called weft. They run perpendicular to the warp. Also referred to as the cross grain. WELT A strip of fabric that is sewn between the two sides of a cushion to allow it more depth is called welt. WOVEN FABRIC Fabric that is made by interlacing horizontal and vertical yarns is called woven fabrics. WRAP The upper part of an opening which overlaps the under layer is called wrap. WRONG SIDE The wrong side of a fabric is the one where there is no design or pattern. YOKE Separately made shoulder piece of bodice or the top of a skirt is known as yoke. ZIG ZAG Zigzag is a type of stitch that goes sideways one direction, and then the other. It can be used to prevent a seam from raveling. It can also be used decoratively.