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A GOLDEN GUIDE®
GARDEN OF GODS COLORADO
GOLDEN NATURE GUIDES BIRDS
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INSECT PESTS STARS
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TREES
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TROPICAL FISH
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SEASHELLS OF THE WORLD
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MINERALS OF THE WORLD
NATIONAL PARKS OF THE WORLD
GOLDEN REGIONAL GUIDE THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
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THE
RocKY MouNTAINS by HERBERT S. ZIM, Ph.D., Sc.D. in consultation with the UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO MUSEUM STAFF Boulder, Colorado
ILLUSTRATIONS BY
SU ZAN NOGUCHI SWAIN
GOLDEN PRESS
•
NEW,YORK
Western Publishing Company, Inc. Racine, Wisconsin
This Golden Guide attempts to introduce and explore a widely known region-big, varied, and open enough to tempt a multitude of visitors, many of whom stay to swell the fast-growing population. The high, cool moun tains have a long and involved geologic history and a wealth of rocks, ores, and minerals. The climate they help create belies the summer heat and produces a richness and a variety of plant and animal life which all may enj oy. Without the expert knowledge of Hugo Rodeck and his staff the selection and checking of data would have been difficult if not impossible. Richard Beidleman of Colorado College also made his wide field experience available. May I thank Gordon Alexander, William C. Bradley, John B. Chronic, Don Eff, Gladys R. Gary, Russell M. Honea, Edna Johnson, Albert Knorr, Urless N. Lanham, T. Paul Maslin, Clarence J. McCoy, John Rohner, Orner Stewart, Lowell E. Swenson, William A. Weber and Joe Ben Wheat of the University of Colorado Museum; also Robert P. Allen, H. Raymond Gregg, Arnold B. Grobman, Donald F.
Hoffmeister, and Alexander Sprunt IV. Thanks go, also, to
the artist, Su Zan Noguchi Swain, to Sonia Bleeker Zim for her work on the Indian tribes, and to all those who provided photographs.
H. S. Z
©Copyright 1964 by Western Publishing Company, Inc. All rights reserved including rights of reproduction and use in any form or by any means, in� eluding the making of copies by any photo process, or by any electronic or mechanical device, printed or written or oral, or recording for sound or visual reproduction or for use in any knowledge retrieval system or device, un less permission in writing is obtained from the copyright proprietor. Produced in the U.S.A. by Western Publishing Company, Inc. Published by Golden Press, New York, N.Y. library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 64-11054.
5
H E R E ARE T H E ROCKIES .... . ...... .
An i ntrod u ction to the great mou nta i n system that forms the backbone of North America. Cli mate; more information. ROCKY M O U NTAI N S TODAY ............... :...
15
T h e o l d a n d new cities, t h e i r attract i o n s . Tou rs and touring; calendar of events. THE GOOD OLD DAYS......................
I nd i a n tribes of the mountains and adjacent plains; the Spa n i s h explorers and the French trap·
23
pers. Lewis and C l a r k and the o p e n i n g of t h e re · gion; m i n i ng, settlement and ra i l roa d s . THE G EOLOG I C STORY.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The anci ent l a n d s that were u p l i fted and a ltered
43
to b u i l d the R o c k i e s ; the deposits of roc k s and m i nerals and the u n u s u a l fossils. R O C K Y M O U NTAI N PLANTS...................
61
The r i c h vari ety of plants from the p l a i n s to the m o u n t a i n tops. Fl owers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trees
62 73
ANIMAL LIFE OF THE ROCKI ES
The r i c h and d i versified a n i m a l life with species now becoming rare. 87 Mammals . B i rd s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
87
97
F i s h e s . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . .
1 08
A m p h i bi a n s , Reptiles
1 10
I nsects .
1 13
W HAT TO SEE A N D DO ................. .
116
N .ational Parks, Monuments and Forests; state p a r k s , m u s e u m s , c a m p i n g , sports a n d other outdoor activities . I N DEX ........... . ......... . ........... . .... 157
this book is an arbitrary area of some
400, 000 square miles, encompass
ing the core of the Rockies. Its 2 , 200-
mile length includes parts of 5 states
The Rocky Mounta i n s form a 5,000- m i l e jagged back bone for N o rth America from Mexico to A l a s ka . More t h a n a h u n d red nort h -south ra nges m a ke u p this m o u n ta i n co m p l ex wh i c h rea c h e s its grea test width (300 m i l es) in Colorado and Uta h . Colorado a lone boa sts of 54 peaks ove r 1 4,000 ft h i g h . Mt. El bert in /"i C o l orado rea c h es u p to 1 4,4 1 9 feet but / / t h i s fa l l s far short of Alaska's Mt. M c Ki n l ey,_ 20,32 ft •
/1
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5
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T h e Roc k i e s a re n ot a l l m o u n ta i n o u s . Between a nd a r o u n d t h e s n ow-ca p pe d r a n ges a n d c o n i fer-covered s l opes a r e n a t u r a l p a r kl a n d s, exte n s i ve p l atea u s, brush· covered f l ats a n d sem i - a ri d deserts. H uge ra nches a nd fa r m l a n d s h u g t h e mounta i n s w h e re l a n d h a s been clea red a n d water made ava i l a b l e . At f i rst a gri m b a r r i e r to conti n e nt a l co n q u e st, the Roc k i e s g ra d u a l ly bega n to attract settl ers beca u se of f u rs, m i n e r a l s, forests a n d agri c u lt u r a l l a nd fo u n d there. Later, people came beca use of the sti m u l a t i n g c l i m ate a n d s u pe r b scenery. T h e Roc ky M o u n ta i n reg i o n, sti l l front i e r cou ntry at the t u rn o f t h e centu ry, i s n o w boom· i n g in p o p u l ation, i n d u st ri a l d evel o p m ent a n d c u l t u ral growt h . Vacationers and new resi dents joi n t h e o l d -ti mers in e n j oy i n g the f reedom and exh i l a ra t i o n " o u t w h e re the West begi n s . "
U pturned edges o f sandstone layers have eroded into u n u s u a l s h a pes; near C o l o rado Sprin gs, Colorad o Simpkins-National Audubon Society
Bob and lro Spring
Hereford cattle pasture at the foot of the Sawto oth Mountains near Stanley, . Idaho
The great Rocky Mou nta i n system is often d i vided i nto a n o r t h e r n a n d a sout h e r n pa rt, w h i c h a r e sepa rated by broken pl atea u s exten d i n g f rom the Wyo m i n g Basi n to the Sna ke R i ver Pl a i n . The N o rt h ern Rockies beg i n north a nd west of Ye l l owsto n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k a n d exte n d on n o rth· westwa rd i nto Canada and A l a s ka . T h e S o u t h e r n Rocki es a re m a i n l y long, u p l i fted ridges wh ich, i n risi ng, h ave u pt u r ned l ayers of sedi ments on either s i d e . I n the north the Rockies a re more massive a n d d o n ot f o r m r i dges w i t h u pt u r n e d footh i l l s . I n both a reas t h e Rockies form the Continenta l Divide, where the s l opes turn ra i n a n d melting snow i nto e i t h e r t h e Atl a ntic o r the Pacific d r a i n age. The D i vi d e and most R oc ky ra nges are crossed by m o u nta i n pa sses (t h e l owest u s a b l e paths 7
a c ross t h e mounta i n s), th rough w h i c h road s a n d ra i l roads f u n n e l at e l evati o n s betwee n 7 , 500 a n d· 1 2 , 0 00 ft. The d i scovery of South Pass in 1 8 1 2 and ot h e rs afterwa rd h a stened t h e o p e n i n g of t h e West. C o l o r a d o h a s 1 36 n a med pa sses, a nd the tota l n u mber for the Rockies may a p p roach 500. In general, m o u nta i n soi l is poor a n d rocky but in the n a t u r a l basi n s or parks a re rich grassl a n d s . On the f l a n ks of t h e Ro c k i e s - espec i a l l y to t h e east a n d i n river va l l eys -the so i l i s good and, with i rrigation, prod uces f i ne crops. I r r i ga t i o n m e a n s t h a t corn, a l f a lfa, m e l o n s, s u g a r beets a n d t r u c k crops c a n be ra i sed . W i t h o u t i r rigati o n, d ry fa r m i n g m a y prod uce sorgh u m, w h eat, c o r n or e n o ugh grass for past u re . W h at used to be open ra nge is now fenced a n d i m p roved for catt l e . S h e e p ma ke t h e most of th i n ner m o u ntai n past u res. The water of mounta i n strea ms a n d l a kes i s carried by i n gen i o u s t u n ne l s a n d d i tches to s u pply powe r a n d i rri ga tion need s . Other natural reso u rces of the Rockies i ncl ude great forests of pine, spruce and _f i r with some h a rdwoods at l ower l evel s . The geologic activity t h a t fo l l owed the u p l ift of t h e m o u nta i n s h o n eyco m bed t h e co u n try roc k with veins rich in lead, zinc, s i l ver, gol d and copper. Petrole um has been d i scovered i n the Wyo m i n g basir
T h e to u ri st a n d v i s i to r a re attracted by w h a t m i ght be con s i d e red lesser natu ra l reso u rces. B u t the combi nation of c l i m ate, s c e n ery a n d a r i c h n e s s of n a t i v e p l a n ts a nd a n i ma l s expresses the u n iq u e physical and biologic factors t h a t u n ite to m a ke t h i s regi o n so outsta n d i n g . Besides, t h e Rockies a re more centra l l y located t h a n one m ight b e l ieve . Denver, the gateway to the Rocki es, is 830 a i r m i l e s fro m L o s A n g e l e s , 9 1 0 f r o m C h i ca go, 1 , 460 from ' Wa s h i ngton, 1 , 200 from Atl a nta , 1 , 020 from Seatt l e, a nd 1 , 080 from New Orlea ns .
R i c h farms fill the river valleys near Missoula, Montan a B o b a n d Ira Spring
9
R O C KY M O U NTAI N CLI MATE i s affected by a ltitude, l ati t u d e and geogra p h y . Te m perature fa l l s a bo u t 31h0F. w i t h every t h o u s a n d feet of e l i m b a n d d ro p s a bo u t 1 V2° as one moves north one d egree of l a t i t u d e (about 66 m i l e s) . Dayti me s u m m er te m p e ra t u res may be w a r m or h ot, b u t n i ghts a re cool . I n m o u n ta i n va l l eys, wi nter tem p e r a t u res may d ro p to -60°F. b u t t h e low h u m i d ity h e l ps mod i fy the effect of both h eat a n d col d . S n ow may be h ea vy t h rough s p r i n g and may pers i st in t h e m o u nta i ns a l l s u m m e r . We ste rn slopes get t h e m o st m o i st u re . The ea ste r n " ra i n s h a d ow" may get as l i ttl e as ten i n c h es a yea r . Skies a re cloud less or nea rly so, with some su mmer t h u ndersto rms. In wi nter the u n u s u a l c h i nook w i n d s blow d o w n t h e ea st s l o pes, ra i s i ng t h e t e m p e ratu re m a r kedly i n j u st a few h o u rs . C L I MATIC DATA FOR SO M E ROCKY M O U NTAI N CITIES
C i ty
Altitude
B a nff, A l berta 4, 53B ft. Ca lga ry. Al berta 3.439 ft. M i ssoula , Mont. 3,223 ft. Helena. Mont. 4.047 ft. B utte, Mont. 5.7 1 6 ft. W. Ye l l owstone, Mont. 6.667 ft. Rapid City, S.D. 3 , 2 2 9 ft. S u n Va l ley, I d a h o 6, 000 ft. B o i s e , I daho 2,B42 ft. Casper, Wyo. 5 , 1 23 ft. Pocatello, I d a h o 4 , 4 6 1 ft. Rock Springs, Wyo. 6 , 2 7 1 ft. 6.060 ft. C heyen ne, Wyo. S a l t l a k e City, Utah 4, 390 ft. Vernal, Utah 5,050 ft. Denver, Colo. 5, 2BO ft. leadvi l l e , Colo. 1 0 , 1BB ft. Colorado Spr., Colo. 5, 900 ft. G u n n i son, Colo. 7 , 6B l ft.
10
latitude 5 l'N 5l'N 47'N 47'N 46'N 45'N 44'N 44'N 44'N 43'N 43'N 42'N 4l"N 40'N 40"N 40'N 39'N 39'N 39'N
Sl ope Avg. Ja n . Avg. July E . or W. temp. temp .
Annual precip.
1 3" F IB' F 22'F 20'F 23'F 1 3' F 23'F 3 l' F 27'F 26'F 26'F 1 9' F 27'F 30' F 1 7' F 3 2" F IB'F 30'F B"F
2 1 in. 17 in. 14 i n . 13 in. 14 i n . 19 in. !B i n . !B i n . 1 1 in. 15 in. 13 i n . 7 in. 16 in. 16 in. 9 in. 14 i n . 20 i n . 14 in. lO i n .
East East West East West East Ea st West West East West West East West West East East East West
57"F 7 5"f 6B'F 66'F 65'F 5B' F 7 2' F B2'F 7 5' F 72'F 72' F 69'F 67'F 77'F 70'F 73'F 56'F 6B' F 6l'F
Sob and Ira Spring
C h a n g e s i n life z o n e s a re evident in the Seven Devi l s R a n ge, I d a h o . C o n ifers t h i n o u t at h i g h e r altitudes
i n c l u d e com m u n i t i e s of p l a nts a n d a n i ma l s w h i c h , i n t u r n , refl ect the relatio n sh i p between c l i mate a nd a ltitude. Each thousand feet u p the Roc k i e s bri ngs a tern· perature d ro p eq u a l to a 200- m i l e jou r n ey north . S i n ce te m p e rat u re a n d r a i n fa l l often d ete r m i n e t h e k i n d of p l a nts that w i l l su rvive, typ i c a l com m u n i ties develop in a reas t h a t h ave a common local c l i mate. Thus, a s one c l i m bs the Rockies, the c h a n ges h e sees in p l a nt and a n i m a l l i fe ref l e ct t h e same c h a nges h e wo u l d s e e i f h e h a d traveled nort h . T h e p l a nt com m u n ities a n d t h e l ife zones they form a re not c l e a r c u t . T h e weste r n s i d e of t h e R o c k i e s h a s more ra i n fa l l t h a n t h e ea ste rn s l o pes a n d t h i s m a kes for richer p l a nt l i fe. T h e Rockies, as covered i n t h i s book, extend over 2 , 000 m i les north and sou t h , so the ave rage tem perLIFE ZO NES
11
a t u res r u n some 2 0° l ess i n t h e Ca n a d i a n R o c k i e s t h a n in c e n t r a l Col orado. I n Colorad o , one m u st c l i m b to 1 1 ,500 feet to rea c h the ti m berl i n e , the poi nt a bove w h i c h no trees grow. The ti m berl i n e is at about 9 , 000 feet i n Mon· tana and at only 7 , 000 feet i n northern Al berta . S p r i ng ten d s to come a bo u t one d a y l ater a n d f a l l one day e a r l i e r for every 1 00-ft. rise in el evati o n . T h i s m a kes s u m m e r at t h e Colorado t i m be r l i n e o n l y a bo u t s i x weeks long -fro m J u ly to m i d - A u g u st . T h e t i ny a l p i n e fl owers grow i n g in m ats a nd c u s h i o n s ( p p . 62 -63) b u rst i nto b l o o m a l l at once a nd a re soon go n e . B i rd s at t i m berl ine nest later and m igrate ea r l i e r t h a n those on the Pl a i ns. Below is a c h a rt of the genera l i zed l i fe zones for the Rockies of Colorado. Fa rt h e r north t h e wa r m Sonoran Z o n e d i s a ppears and the ot h e r zones are at l ower l evels. In m u c h of t h e Roc k i e s t h e Tra n s i t i o n and Ca n a d ian zones f u se and overlap. The treatment of flowers, s h r u bs, trees, m a m m a l s and b i rd s ( p p . 6 2 - 1 0 7 ) genera l ly fol l ows a z o n a l pattern w h i c h w i l l bot h h e l p o n e to recog n i ze l i fe zones a n d m a ke i d entification easier. L I F E ZONES I N T H E ROC K I ES
Zone
Location
Elevation
Arctic· Alpine
a bove timber· l i ne
over 1 1 .500 ft.
Alpine gra sses. l ichens, sedges, Dwa rf W i l low
H u d so,.ian
h igh mountains to timberline
1 1 , 500 10 ,000
L i m ber Pine, Engelmann Spruce, Bristlecone Pine
Canadian
lower mountains
1 0 , 000 8 , 000
Quaking Aspen, Lodge· pole Pine, Dougl a s Fir, Ponderosa Pine
Tra nsition
footh i l l s
U pper So nor an
12
Typical plants
8, 000 6, 000
Pinon Pine, oaks, Rocky Mt. Juniper
6, 000 4 , 500
Cottonwood , wil lows, Box Elder, Sagebrush
Bob and Ira Spring
A variety of accommodations are available for visitors i n the Rocki es; this i s a c h alet in Glacier National Park
comes to the Roc k i es with a pa rcel of clear expectations. H e w i l l not be d i sa p poi nted . The su m mer c l i mate is sti m u l a t i n g and the cool n i g hts a re restf u l . The sce nery is u n ri va l ed . Activities range from d u d e ranch i ng, h u n ting, f i s h i ng and ca m p i n g down to p l a i n , u na d u lter· ated re l a xati o n . Enjoy the Roc k i e s to the f u l l est, but come p r e p a red . R e m e m ber, it t a k e s a b i t of t i m e to get a ccl i · m ated to alt it u de s over 7,000 f t . A v o i d exerti on t h e fi rst f e w days. Wea r a p propriate, co mforta b l e c l ot h i ng a nd have wa r m jac kets or sweaters fo r the cool even i ngs. St u rdy s hoes ma ke wa l ki ng a pleasure. Do n ' t be deceived by d i s· tances on a road m a p . Mounta i n d riving req u i res ca re a nd s h o u l d be done slowly. Stop often to enjoy the scenery a n d to relax . C h eck before ta k i n g u n graded m o u nta i n r o a d s o r l o c a l s h ort c u t s . I n s u m m e r t h ere m a y b e mos· q u itoes a l ong l a kes and strea m s and biting f l i es in the fo rests . Ticks occ u r i n grasslands and brus h l a n d . Some t i c k s a re c a r r i e r s of d i se a s e . R a tt l e rs a re fo u n d but not c o m m o n l y i n t h e m o u nta i n s . Leave t h e m a l o n e . I n s h ort, take the s a m e c a re out-of-doors that you wou l d at home.
THE V I SI TOR
13
on the Rockies may be had f rom federa l a n d state sou rces.
M ORE I N FORMAT I O N
N ational Forests: U . S. Forest Service, for E . Wyo. and Colo., Federal Center, Denver 2 , Colo. For W. Wyo., Utah and S. Idaho, Forest Service Bldg. , Ogd e n , Uta h . For N. Idaho, Mont., Federal B l d g . , M i ssoula, Mont. National Parks and Monuments: National Pa rk Service, Wash i n gton 25, D . C . , or the regional office for the Rockies, National Park Service, Omaha 2, Nebraska. COLORADO Adv. and Publ icity Dept. , Capitol Bldg. , Denver 2 WYO M I N G Travel Com m . , State Ofc. Bldg. , Cheyenne I DA H O State Dept. of Commerce & Dev . , Capitol Bldg. , Boise MONTANA Travel and Adv. Dept. , State H i ghway Com m . , Helena U TAH Road and Tourist I nfo., State Ca pitol Bldg. , Salt Lake City B R I T I S H COL U M B I A Gov't Travel Bureau, Parlia ment Bldg., Victoria, B.C. A L B ERTA Gov't Travel B u rea u , Legi slative B l d g . , Edmonton , A l berta
MAPS a re essenti a l . U se road m a ps from seve ral sou rces, e s p ec i a l l y to c h e c k m i n o r roa d s . Deta i l ed topogra ph ic m a p s a re f i n e for h i kers. Write U . S. Geologica l Su rvey, · Wa s h i ngton 2 5 , D. C . , for a f ree key m a p of each state you desi re a n d for order fo rms. B O O KS o n t h i s .region a re p l e nt i f u l . M ost deal with speci· fie s u bjects , s u c h a s h i story, m i n i n g , trees, o r b i rds. B e l o w are some g u i des and ge n e r a l i ntrod u ct i o n s. Those of t h e W. P. A . Writers' Proj ect tend to be d a ted b u t sti l l h ave a wea lth of pertinent deta i l . Colorado Ormes, Robert M . , G U I D E T O COLORADO MOUNTAINS, Sage, 1 9 5 5 . ·writers' Project, COLORADO, R e v . E d . , 1 9 5 1 , Hasti ngs. Wyoming Bonney, 0. H. and L., G U I D E TO T H E WYO M I N G M O U N TA I N S A N D WI L D E R N ESS AREAS, 1 960, Sage. Writers' Project, WYOM I N G , G U I DE TO ITS H I STORY, H I GHWAYS AND PEOPLE, 1941 , Oxford U n iv. Press. Idaho Writers' Project, I DA H O , A G U I D E IN W O R D A N D P I C T U R E , 1 9 50, Oxford Univ. Press. Montana Writers' Project, M O N T A N A , Rev. Ed., 1 9 5 5 , H a stings. Howard, Jose p h K . , MONTANA, H I G H , W I D E AND HAN DSO M E , Rev. Ed . , 1 9 59, Ya le. Utah Writers' Project, UTAH, Rev. Ed., 1 9 54, Hastings. British Columbia Good c h i l d , Fred H., B R I T I S H COLU M B I A , I TS H I STORY, PEOPLE AND I N DUSTRY, 1 9 5 1 , Macm i l l a n . Ormsby, M . A . , B R I T I SH COLUM· B I A , 1958, Macmil lan.
14
Josef Muench
Denver' s C i v i c Center, viewed fro m the dome of the State Capitol B u i l d i n g , i s a symbol of the Roc k i e s ' g rowth
D u r i n g the next decades cente n n i a l s of a l l sorts wi l l be c e l e b rated u p a n d down t h e R o c k i e s . C o l o r a d o began in 1 9 59 with the cente n n i a l of its gol d r u s h . All t h ese cele brations w i l l serve as rem i n d ers of the p rod i g i o u s growth of t h i s regi o n . Progress h a s not been steady. At t h e h a lf century point many m i n i ng booms had al rea dy bu rst. Towns were a ba n d o n ed a s the ores gave out. But the seco nd half centu ry has seen a pronou nced c h a nge . N ew dams a n d t u n n e l s h a ve m a d e c h e a p power a n d i r rigation water ava i l a b l e . T h e a i r p l a n e h a s s u p p l e m e nted roa d s a n d ra i l roads to bring the Rockies wit h i n a few hours of both coasts. New h eavy i n d u stry h a s sta b i l i z ed the economy, and old sta nd bys l i ke cattl e and s h e e p r a i s i ng, l u m ber and fa rm i n g h ave become more p rod u ctive. New a n d b i gger cities boast of school s , u n iversities, pa rks, zoos a n d m u seu ms. As yo u pass t h rough cities l i sted on the n ext t h ree pages watch for worthwh i l e t h i ngs to see and d o . 15
State of Colorado
The U . S . Air Force Academy, in the footh i l l s j u st north of Colorado Springs
C O L OR A D O Denver: m i l e · h igh ca pital of, and la rg· est city i n , Colo. Esta bl i shed in 1 860 by prospectors and m i ners i n eastern shadow of Rockies. Growi ng commer· c i a l , agri c u l t u ra l a n d vacation center. Site of U . S . M i nt . Air Force base and sc � ool . U n iv. of Denver, colleges, mu· se u m s , zoo, and many m u n i c i pa l l y owned mountain parks. C o l o r a d o Springs: Resort city. Tol l r o a d a n d cog t r a i n to 1 4 , 1 1 0·ft. s u m · m i t o f Pi kes P e a k . H a s broad streets. fine homes and pa rks; a rt center. Colo. College. Will R ogers Shrine, Garden of t h e Gods; Zoo; USAF Academy; home
of N.A. Air Defense Command. Puebl o : Steel plant, m a n ufactu ring c e n t e r . i r rigated v a l l ey a rea . State fa i r and rodeo. Grand Junction: N e a r by mineral de· posits and i rrigated farmlands. Gate· way to Colo. Nat. M o n . Visit ob serva· tory i n G r
16
a n n u a l rodeo. Fine m o u n t a i n parks a n d Flagstaff scenic highway. Greeley: Agr i c u l t u ra l marketing center esta b l i s h ed by f a m o u s editor of N .Y. Tribune, H o r a c e G re e l e y . C o l o rado State C o l l ege, M e e k e r M e m o r i a l Mu· seum. U SDA Experimental Station. Fort Collins: Agri c u l t u r a l center and resid enti a l city, home of Colo. State U n i v . ; Pioneer M u s e u m . Follow Route 14 west to M o u ntain Park and fish hatcheries.
M O NTANA Helena: Capital o f M onta n a . Past and present l i nked with gol d , silver and lead m i n i ng . M u s e u m , a rt g a l l ery, cathedra l . Butte: Extensive u nd ergro u n d copper and zinc mines. Agricultural and stock c e n t e r . School of M i n e s h a s fine museum. G reat Falls: I n d u st r i a l a n d f i n ancial c e n t e r - l a rgest city i n M o n ta n a . Art g a l l ery, a n n u a l state f a i r and rodeo. G i a n t S p r i ng s and Lewis and Clark N ational Forest are nearby.
Bozeman: In rich agricultural and l ive. stock land of Gallatin Va l l ey . Montana State Col l ege sta rted here i n 1 893.
N ea rby is Gallatin Nat. Forest and the G a l l a t i n Gateway of Yel l owstone Nat. Park. Livingston: R a i l road center, timber in d u stries. Scenic d rive from here goes to G a r d i n e r , entrance to Ye llowstone· N a t . Pa r k . Billings: R a i l c e n t e r , o i l a n d sugar re· fi ne r i e s . H i st o r i c a l m u s e u m , scenic d rives. Headquarters for nea rby Custer Nat. Forest. A n n u a l rodeo. Anaconda: Copper smelter. N e a rby c a m pgro und s , f i s h i n g , l a ke s and strea m s , d i n o s a u r beds. A b u ndant w i l d l ife i n Pintlar W i lderness Area. M i ssoul a : T r a i n i n g school for Fo rest Service Smokejumpers. Livestock auc tions, Montana State U n i versity. Fish, game and guides nearby. Kalispel l : Agric u l t u ral m a r ket center s u rr o u n d e d by recreation a r e a s in· e l u d i n g H u ngry H o rse D a m , G l a cier Nat. Park, Flathead Lake and Flathead Nat. Forest. WYO M I N G C a sper: C e n t e r o f s h e e p , c a t t l e and oil region. Replica of Ft. Caspar. Near by are Casper M o u n ta i n Park, H e l l ' s H a l f A c r e a n d I n dependence Rock.
I DA H O I d a h o Falls: I d a h o ' s second l a rgest city, has waterfa l l s and p i c n i c a reas. Nea rby lands i rrigated by Snake River prod u ce g ra i n and pota t o e s . Atomic Energy Commission's national reactor testing station j u st west of city on Lost R iver P l a i n s . Pocatello: On Oregon T r a i l i n b road valley of Snake River at western edge of Rockies. T r a d i n g , ra i l road and col lege center. Near giant American Fa l l s 'R eservoir ( i r ri gation a n d p o w e r ) a n d h i storic s i t e of Old F o r t H a l l .
UTAH Salt Lake City: Ca pital o f U ta h . N ear d e sert, Great Salt La ke a n d moun t a i n s . Wo rld headq u a rters of Mormon C h u r c h ; f a m o u s for M o r m o n T a ber nacle, c h o i r , and t e m p l e . La rgest city between Denver a n d West Coa st. Agri c u l t u r a l , i n d u st r i a l , m i n i n g , especially copper, and c u l t u ra l center. M u seums, a rt collections, colleges and u n iversity. qgden: I m portant rail center and s h i p ping point for livestock. Uta h ' s second l a rgest city. L i e s between m o u ntains a n d G reat Salt La k e . Site of U . S . For est Service experimental station. East t h rough Ogden Canyon i s Snow Basin wi nter sports a re a .
Cheyenne: Home of world ·fa mout F r o n t i e r Days in J u l y; m a i n t a i n s Old West flavor t h r o u g h o u t year. State's l a rgest city a n d c a p i tal. C o m m e rcial, ranching a n d r a i l center s u r r o u nded by ranch cou ntry.
Provo: A c u l t u ra l a n d steel n e a r r i c h a g ri c u l t u ra l l a n d . M ormon Brigham Young Univ. and to the north towers Mt. nogos ( 1 2 , 008 ft . ) .
Lara mie: Q u i et western town between mounta i n ranges. Ranching and sports· m e n ' s center. Site of U n i versity of Wyoming; fossil m u s e u m .
Loga n : S i t e o f U t a h State U n i v . Lo cated o n edge of h i st ori c a n d fertile Cache Va l l ey . Logan Ca nyon leads northeast to Bear Lake.
center Site of Nearby Timpa
17
A L B E RTA C a l gary: Z o o l o g i c a l a n d n a t u r a l h i s· tory park h a s models of d i n osaurs. Site of fish h a t c h e ry , bird sanctuary, p a c k i n g p l a nts and f l o u r m i l l s . Gate· way to Ba nff and J a sper Nat. Pks. Lethbridge: Sugar beet r ef i n e ries, vegetable ca n n i ng and freezing plants. V i s i t l a rge e a rth-fi l l ed dam on St. M a r y ' s Ri ver and Waterton-Giacier I n · ternational Peace Park. B R I TI S H C O L U M B I A Revelstoke: First sett led a s a r a i l road center, now h a s farming, l u mber and m i n i n g as c h i ef i n d u stries. Mt. Revel·
stoke Nat. Park h e a d q u a rters are here. Located at j u nction of Col umbia a n d l l l eci l l ewaet rivers. Nelson: O n west branch of Kootenay L a k e ; has c o m p l ete t o u r i st facilities. N e a r by a re g h ost tQw n s , o l d settle· ments and picnicking and sports a reas. K i m berley: Site of t h e f a m o u s S u l l ivan M i n e , the worl d ' s l a rgest prod ucer of lead, zinc and s i l ver. To urs. Trail: I n a narrow valley on the banks of t h e C o l u m b i a River. P u b l i c park, beaches, a n d outdoor theater. Tour the .fa mous Comi nco smelter (prod uc· ing si lver, lead a n d z i nc) and its chemi· c a l fert i l i z e r p l a nt.
S p i re s of t h e Mormon Tem p l e are a l a n d m a r k i n Salt lake C ity Union Pacific Railroad
Bob and Ira Spring
A f a m i l y c a m p s at 1 2 , 0 0 0 ft. near Continental Divide i n C o lorado
TOU R I N G THE ROC KIES is more f u n if yo u do some ad· vance p l a n n i ng. Send for road m a ps, g u i d e books and travel fold ers. Major o i l co m p a n i es offer free to u r a i d. Remember t h i s i s mounta i n o u s cou ntry-try to keep each day' s travel we l l u n der 300 m i l e s . M a ke rese rva f ions for h ote l s and reso rts. Arrive early to get ca m ps i tes d u ri ng the b u sy s u m mer season. Sta rt yo u r day early and stop early. T h i s gi ves you more t i m e for s i d e tri p s , recreat i o n , fish i ng or l oca l si ghtseei ng. Best t i m e for travel in t h e Roc kies is l ate J u n e to early Septe m b e r. H i g h e r e l evati o n s may be snowbo u n d i nto early J u ly . Check ti res and brakes before sta rti ng. Traffic, ga m e and con servation l a w s vary, a s d o ca m psite costs, entrance a nd a d m i ssion fees. Check in advance. U se your ca r ' s ash tray a nd a l i tter bag. Keep cam psites c l ea n. Try one of ttie f o l l ow i n g suggested to u rs or p l a n yo u r own afte r checking the l a st section of t h i s book ( pp. 1 1 6- 1 56).
19
-�-�-·
Chttkcurrent hlchw�ymaps fOr new Interstate •nd Defense Hllhw�ys
t h rough t h e Roc k i e s , e a c h p l a n ned for one wee k , w i l l g i ve y o u a c h a nce to see t h e northern or s o u t h e r n Roc k i e s - o r bot h . Both t r i p s sta rt from Yel l ow· sto n e Pa r k but you can p i c k t h e m u p at a n y pl ace en route. T h e f i rst tou r, to the nort h , cove rs 1 ,700 m i l es i n a wee k , but try to add a few extra days at Yel l owstone at the ' begi n n i ng or the end , a s yo u r sched u l e permits . .
TWO T O U RS
20
1st day: From G a r d i n e r via U . S . 89 a n d 10 to T h ree Forks, t h e n north on Route 287 to Helena (capital and museums) to spend the night. 2nd day: Conti n u e north on Route 287 to B rown ing; then circle south and west o n U . S. 2 to West Glacier. 3rd day: Drive back east through Glacier N . P. to St. Ma ry; swing north on U . S . 89 and C a n a d a 2 to Calgary, or use R o u t e s 6 and 3 from Babb to v i s i t Waterton Park en route. 4th day: Move from t h e p l a i n s back i nto t h e m o u n t a i n s via Route 1 to B a nff. See Lake Lou i se and head west via lA or lB to Route 95. Ta ke the 1 60-mile trip north to the Col u mbia Ice Field i f you have a n extra day. Spend the night at R a d i u m Hot Spri ngs on Rout� 9 5 . 5th day: Head south on R o u t e 9 5 to C ra n brook; t h e n on 93 a n d cross t h e border. On to W h i t e Fish or K a l i s pe l l f o r the n i g h t . 6th day: Cont i n u e on 93 to M i s s o u l a and then on U . S . 1 0 to Anaconda. Visit the copper smelters. 7th day: Return on U . S. lOS and 1 0 to Bozeman and south on U.S. 191 to West Yel lowstone. Here the park and road system connects to Gardiner and to roads east a n d south.
S o u t h tri p is a bit s h o rter but has a greater east- west s w i n g . Denver c a n be visited or by- passed d e pe n d i ng on you r fee l i n g a bo u t b i g cities. The m useums a n d parks a re exce l l e nt. 1st day: From Yel l owstone N . P. t a k e U . S . 89 t h rough Grand Teton N . P.; t h e n via Montpelier a n d Loga n Canyon to Ogden, Uta h . 2nd day: Drive south through S a l t Lake City on U . S . 9 1 . Take c utoff t o T i mpano· gos Cave N. Mon. Conti n u e on to H eber, and swing east on U . S . 40 to Verna l . 3rd day: Conti n u e east on U . S . 4 0 , visiti ng Di nosa u r N . M . Stay on 4 0 , turning s hort of Granby onto U . S. 34 and Grand Lake. 4th day: Start early through Rocky Mountain N . P. over Tra i l R idge Road to Estes Park. Ta ke R outes 66 and 7 to Boulder ( U . of Colo.); toll t u rn p i ke to Den ver (capita l , parks and m u se u ms) or take 1 1 9 a s a cutoff. Push west o n U . S. 6 to Dowds and south on U . S . 24 to Leadvi l l e . 5th day: Cont i n u e south a n d e a s t on U . S . 24 via Buena Vi sta a n d Flori ssant t o C o l o r a d o Springs. A side r o a d takes you u p Pi kes Pea k . S e e t h e Garden of t h e Gods and A i r Force Academy, t h e n o n t o Denver via the freeway. 6th day: Via U . S . 87 or 287 to Fort Col l i n s , then o n U . S . 287 to Lara m i e and Rawlins.
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7th day: Cont i n u e on U . S . 287 t o L a n d e r , then turn e a s t and n o r t h via 7 8 9 and 20 to Cody and on to east entrance of Yel lowstone Nat. Park.
21
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
(Verify locally and check tor specific dates) January Nat. Western Livestock Show, Horse Show a n d Rodeo, Denver. April Red Rock Park, Denver-and elsewhere-Easte r Sunday sun rise services in natural a m phitheaters.
May
Ch erry B lossom Festival, Canon City, Colo . ; Sports Car Races, Memori a l Day, La J u nt a , Col o . ; Vigilante Parade a n d Mont. I n st i t u te of A r t s Festiva l , H e l e n a , Mont. ; Gold Sp i ke Festival, Ogd e n , Uta h ; Apple Blossom Festiva l , Fayette, Idaho (first week); Fishing Derby ( M a y - N ov.), Sandpoint, Idaho; Log Drive Festival, Priest River, Idaho.
June Rodeos, Billings a n d Miles City, Montana; I nd i a n S u n Dances at Man· lana reservations: State M i neral and Gem Show, Rock Sp r i n g s , Wyo . ; Pack Burro Race across Mosquito Pass, Leadville, Colo. ; Central C ity Festival, Cen· tral City, Colo. (through Aug.); Horse Show and Rodeo , con t i n u e s fi rst week of J u ly , Greeley, Colo .
July
Sum me r season of cultural events a nd entertain m e n t at Aspen, Cen tral City, Denver, etc. Make local i nqui ry. Widesp read July 4th rodeos, celebratio n s, festivities and speeches. Sum m e r Chautauqua, Boulder, Colo . (through Aug.); Pow Wow Days, Rodeo (last week), Boulder; Rodeo and Pio neer cele b ration (2nd wee k), Canon City, Colo .; Cattlem e n ' s Days Rodeo (3 rd week), Gun nison, Colo.; Pioneer Day R odeo (late July), I d aho Falls; S n a k e River Sta mpede, Na mpa , Ida .; Frontier Days cele bration, Cheye n n e , Wyo.; Calga ry Exhibition a n d Sta mpede (we e k followi ng July 4); Pio n e e r Days, rodeos, p a rades, pageants (late July), Ogde n , Utah; U. of Utah Music Festival (ea rly July) a nd Days of '47 c e l e b ra tions, Salt LaKe City; I ndia n sun d a nces and cere m o nies, B rownin g a n d Fort Belk nap, Monta na; Rodeos, Livin gston , Red Lodge, Mont.; Wolf Point Stampede (mid-July), Wolf Point, Mont.
August Ya cht Cl u b Regatta , Grand Lake, Colo . ; Kids' Rodeo, La Junta , Colo . ; State F a i r a nd Rodeo (late Aug. o r early Sept . ) , Pueblo, Col o . ; Pi kes Pea k or Bust Rodeo, Colo. Springs; All American I ndian Days celebration ( 1 st week), S h e r i d a n , Wyo . ; Gift of the Waters I n d i a n Pageant ( H ot Spr i ngs State Park), T h e r mopol i s , Wyo . ; Cent ral Wyo. Fa i r and Night Rodeo ( m i d · A u g), Ca sper, Wyo .: M idla nd Empire F a i r and Rodeo ( m i d · A u g . ) , Billings, Mont . ; Northern Mont. State Fa i r a n d Rodeo ( 1 st week), Great Falls, Mont. ; Nat. Fresh Water Trout Derby, Festival of Nations, Livi ngston, Mont . ; War Bonnet Rou ndup ( m id·Aug.), I daho Fall s, I d a . September Aspencade (gui ded t o u r o f t h e h i g h count ry-m id· Sept . ) , Stea m· boat Springs, Colo . ; Utah State Fair, Salt Lake City, Utah; Peach Day (rodeo, wrestli ng, boxing), B righa m, U ta h ; N. W. Monta na Fa i r and Rodeo, Kali spell, Mont . ; State Fa i r and Rodeo, Do uglas, Wyo.; Rodeo ( La bo r Day weekend), T h e rmopol i s , Wyo . ; Nati onal Steer Roping Finals, Lara m i e , Wyo . ; Rodeo and Roundup (Labor Day weekend), Lewiston, I d a h o . November
22
Li vestock S h o w (mid·Nov.), Ogden, U t a h .
The Rockies were the homelands of n u merous nomadic tri b e s , m a i n l y h u nters of b u ffa l o , deer and e l k . T h ey in· e l u d ed t h e S h os h o n i , Ute and Pi ute, w h o a l so gathered ed i b l e roots a n d seed s . From a bout 1600 e a stern tri bes, p u s h ed out of thei r l a n d s by oth e r I n d i a n s a n d , l ater, by wh ite settl ers, trek ked to the H i g h P l a i n s and Rockies see k i n g new homes. Those who came prospered , for after 1700 most of t h e I nd i a n s a c q u i red h o rses a n d bega n to e njoy a more a b u ndant life. They cou l d move faster, h u nt· i n g b u ffa l o , a n d covered l o n ger d i sta nces w h e n t r a d i ng w i t h neigh bori n g t r i bes. Thei r bas ket- l i ke s h e lters gave way to s k i n covered t i p i s w h i c h could be q u i c k l y ta ken d own.a n d moved . Tri bes warred over h u nting grounds and ra i d ed each oth e r ' s camps for sheer glory and reckl ess adventu re. E a r l y contacts with E u ropea n s were beneficial t o t h e t r i be s , g i v i n g t h e m trade goods and oth e r new materi a l s. T h i s soon gave way to bl oody conf l i cts a n d wars. T h ere a re n o written records of t h e origi n a l l a n d s and 23
Bands of hunters remained within their tribal boundaries, except dur ing raids and warfare. Bands that were isolated from the rest of the tribe might eventually use only their band name. This has led to confu sion about tribal names and tribal boundaries.
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Old forts
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Early settlements
0 Miles
Monuments and battlefields Indian reservations
Missions
Original triberlands
Trails
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e a r l y m i g rati o n s of t h ese peo p l e before t h e c o m i n g of E u ropea n s . By studyi ng tri b a l k i n s h i p , rel i g i o n s , ian· g u a ges, myt h s and l egen d s , a nth ropologists h ave pi eced a good pa rt of the story together. We t h u s know that the C row, B l a c kfoot, Shoshon i , Ute a nd Pi ute occ u p i ed their l a n d s for a m uc h longer t i m e t h a n t h e rel ative n ew�l���comers, the C h eye n n e , Arapa h o , Sioux \ \ a nd Assi n i bo i n . The Kuten a i , newcomers a l so , were origi n a l l y b u ffa l o h u nters who were p u s hed northwa rd .
l i ved i n ad j o i n i ng territories a n d spoke U ta-Azteca n l a n g u ages that . h a d a common origi n . The total po pu lation of th ese tri bes w a s esti m ated at 1 5 , 000, but t h e I n d i a n s l i ved in bands of a few fa m i l ies each . These ba n d s wa n d e red over t h e bar ren l a n d s of the basi n s a nd p l a tea u s , l e d by a c h i ef who was a n a b l e h u nter or a n older m a n . W h i l e the m e n l ooked for ga me, the women and ch i l d ren gath e red berries, n uts, and seed s , w h ich they ground i nto meal. T h i s was cooked i n t h e h a ndsome watertight baskets t h e wom en s k i l l f u l l y wove. A s t e w was boi l ed b y d ro p p i n g h e a t e d sto n e s i nto it. T h ese tri bes l ived in wi c k i u ps - homes b u i lt of pol es a n d reed s , l i ke h u ge wove n bas kets. For w a r mth they p l a stered t h e w i c k i u ps with m u d m i xed w i t h grass. The women ta n n ed deer a nd a ntelope s k i n s for c l othes a nd wove p l a nt fi bers to make ski rts . They a l so wove stri ps of rabbit f u r i nto wa rm robes a n d bl ankets. T h i s s i m p l e , i sol ated l ife c h a nged afte r 1 700. The Sho s h o n i we re a mong the fi rst to learn to b reed horses in t h e i r s h e l tered v a l l eys. They traded h o rses to the eager P l a i n s h u nters for buffa l o robes , t i p i cove rs, a n d tan ned buckski n s . Shoshoni traders l i ngered on the P l a i n s to h u nt a nd bega n to fe u d with the B l a c kfoot , t h e C h eyen ne and Sioux over buffa l o territory. I n 1 80 5 , a Shoshoni wo m a n , Sacaj a wea , a n d her h us band g u i ded the Lewis a nd C l a r k Exped ition across the Rockies, a n d i ntrod uced the explorers to her peopl e . Thus peacef u l relations with the wh ites bega n . After 1 869, the Shoshoni a n d Ban nock ente red reservations at Ft. H a l l , Lem h i a n d W i n d R i ver. T h e i r c h i ef , Wa s h a k i e , s a i d at the t i m e that h e was yiel d i ng to the " s u perior too l s and terri b l e wea pons of the wh ites . "
T H E S H O S H O N I , UTE, PI UTE A N D BA N N OCK
26
Smithsonian Institution, Bureau of American Ethnology
Early photograph of Shoshone c a m p i n Wyo m i n g; the tent in the foregro u n d is that of Chief Wa s h a k i e
The Ute ra ided Spa n i s h a n d Pueblo Ind i a n settlements to t h e s o u t h a n d occasi o n a l l y crossed t h e m o u n ta i n s to t h e Colorado P l a i n s t o h u nt b u ffa l o . After t h ey got h orses, t h e warl i ke Ute i nc reased t h e i r ra ids . However, t h ey l ater reti red peacef u l l y to reservat i o n s . A "war" f l a red u p i n 1879 beca u se the Ute, a l ready living on short gove r n m e nt rat i o n s , were fo rced i nto fa r m i n g - a n occu· pat i o n t h ey considered unwo rthy of h u nters and warri ors. The u p r i s i n g was q u ickly s u ppressed . I ro n i c a l ly, recent d i scove ry of oil and u ra n i u m on t h e i r reservations has put the modern Ute among the wea l t h i est Ind i a n s . T h e Pi ute, w h i c h m a y mea n "true Ute," l i ved ma i n ly a s p l a n t a n d seed gat herers, w h i l e t h e B a n nock-a detached bra n c h of the N orthern Piute-beca me buffa l o h u nters. I n 1860 t h e Pi ute c l a s h e d with go l d pros pecto rs. Later they were pl aced on reservations. 27
T H E B LACK FOOT, one of the l a rgest (est i m ated p o p u l a tion 10, 000) a n d most aggressive grou ps of northern buf falo h u nters, roa med over a vast territory i n Monta na a nd Ca n a d a . Origina l l y from the ea stern wood l a nd s , the Black foot were so n a med beca u se of thei r mocca s i n s , b l a c kened by grass f i res sta rted to sta m pede the b uffa l o herd s . T h e B l a c kfoot were a l l ies o f the Blood I nd i a ns , Piega ns, Ats i n a and S a rsi . Together they fo u ght the C ree, Assi n i boi n , Shosho n i , C r o w a n d S i o u x . By 1 7 5 0 the B l a c kfoot had horses; by 1 770, g u n s . Then they a n d thei r a l l ies r a i ded s o u th for more ho rses a n d , i n to the R ocki e s , for ca ches of f u rs , stored by the French a n d I n d i a n tra ppers. R i ch and powerf u l , the Bl ackfoot held rel i g i o u s ceremon ies hon o ring the G reat M a n i tou and S u n Dances to a ssu re good b uffa l o h u nti ng. They traded sacred b u nd les a nd songs with thei r a l l ies to acq u i re greater h u nti ng powers. They fea sted and gam bled a n d , at ca m pfi res, told ta les of person a l bravery and stories f rom thei r rich past. The s m a l l pox epidemics of 183 6 , 1 84 5 , and 1 857 brought d i saster to the Blac kfoot. Thei r pop u l ation was red u ced by two t h i rd s . Epi dem i c s h i t t h e neigh boring tri bes a n d dec i mated them too . Soon after, the buffalo began to d i sa p pea r and by 1 880, these frightened , de mora l i zed people faced starvati o n . Both the U n ited States a n d Ca n a d i a n governments p rovi ded rations a n d cl othi ng, a n d p l a ced the B l a c kfoot on three s m a l l reservations in the U n i ted States and two in A l berta , Ca n a d a . T H E FLAT HEAD, n u m beri ng a bout 3 , 000, were rel ated to the I n d i a n s of the Northwest Coast, a l though the Bitter root Va l ley of Monta n a wa s thei r origi n a l home . T hey never practiced fl atten i n g of i nfants' hea d s , b u t were so na med i n error by the Fren c h . The Flathead fought the
28
louis Frohman-The New York Public library
A s u m me r c a m p of the Blackfoot g athered far buffalo h u nting
B l a c kfoot for b u ffa l o l a n d s, but l ost, a n d in the end were p ressed northwa rd . I n 1 855 they were p l a ced on reserves nea r Fl athead La ke, Montana, a n d i n the B i tterroot Va lley. M a ny had a l ready been converted to Catho l i c i s m by Father de S met . I n 1 872 part of the B i tterroot Va l ley Re serve was p u rchased from the Flathea d a n d opened to whi te settlers. n u m bering only 1 , 000, were b uffa l o h u nt ers in the ear l y days. They were p u shed n o rthward f rom the P l a i n s by the S i ksi ka and C ree, who were a l l ies of the B l a c kfoot. The hu nting Kuten a i cont i n ued to l i ve i n t i p i s . Those who beca me fi shermen a l ong I d aho a n d Ca n a d i a n l a kes b u i l t lodges o f ru shes a n d poles. They s pea red and t r a p ped f i sh from bark canoes, made i n a n a nc ient style. The K u te n a i worshi ped the s u n a n d bel ieved thei r dead went there to l i ve. Otherw i se, thei r bel iefs were l i ke those of the P l a i n s I nd i a n h u nters. I n 1 8 5 5 a n d 1 867, the K u ten a i were p u t on reservat i o n s i n Mo nta n a a n d I d aho. THE K U TENAI,
29
PLAINS INDIAN TRIBES, who l i ved a l o n g the east front of t h e R o c k i e s , h u nted i n t h e m o u nta i n va l l ey s . T h ey were m a i n l y buffa l o h u nters, though some of them fa rmed . As tri bes from the rich pra i ries were p u s h ed i nto the High P l a i n s , each s p read over a te rrito ry wh i c h t h ey later c l a i med a nd defended as t h e i r h o m e l a nd. For a l l these newcomers to the Rockies, the buffa l o beca m e the m a i n s t a y of l ife, s u pplying food , cl oth i ng, a n d s h e l ter. The h o rse made h u nting a nd moving easier, and for over a centu ry t h e P l a i n s tri bes prospered. In t h e 1 8 70's a n d 1 880's a s the b u ffa l o d i s a p pe a red , t h e tri bes were defeated a n d fo rced to rese rvati o n s. The P l a i n s tri bes l i v i ng cl osest to the Rockies we re: T H E C ROW, who c a l l t h e m selves Ab· sa rake ( m ea n i ng Sparrowhawk. Crow or B i r d People). were d i v i d e d i nto western or M o u n ta i n Crow a n d east· er. n or River Crow. The i r tota l popula· lion was a bout 4,000. Crow men were excepti o n a l horsemen and s k i l led crafts m e n .
THE ASSI N I B O I N , who once n u m bered some 1 0 , 000, separated from their relatives, t h e Sioux, a n d later fought with them. In C h ippewa la nguage, As siniboin means " o n e who cooks with stones. " The Assi n i bo i n a re now at Ft. B e l k n ap and Ft. Peck Res. i n M o nta n a .
T H E ATSI NA, who n u m bered about 3 , 000, a re now at Ft. Belknap Res. i n M o n t a n a . They a r e a l so called Gras Ve nires ( b i g bel l i es), a l t h o u g h no st outer than their neigh bors. The i r n a m e i n I n d i a n s i g n l a n g u a g e was s h o w n by c i r c l i n g the h a n d s in front of the stomach, sign ifying "big bel ly."
S I OUX i s a contraction of Nadoues sioux. It means " enemies" in Chip· pewa , who fought t h e Sioux when they l i ved farther east. The S i o u x , some 2 5 , 000 strong, i n vaded and spread west to the R o c k i e s . They became known as Dakota, Na kata and La kota , meaning " a l l i e s . "
T H E ARAPAHO a l s o n u m bered about 3,0 0 0 . T h ey h a d been c o r n - g rowers i n M i n n e s ota before c o m i n g to the H i gh P l a i n s . Although the Arapaho al· ways fought t h e S h o s h o n i , they now live o n t h e s a m e reservation at Wind R i ver, Wyo m i ng.
T H E C H EYEN N E were originally Minne sota farmers, but q u ickly adopted the ways of t h e P l a i n s I n d i a n s. Number i n g some 3 , 000, they seem to have covered more territory w h i l e h u nting, wa rring a n d raiding than much larger tribes.
30
The MorgreHa S. Dietrick Collection
T H E SUN D A N C E was an a n cient P l a i n s ceremony to honor t h e buffalo and to i n s u r e good health and good h u nt i n g . The ceremony la sted for eight d a y s . Most was taken . up i n sec ret rites, in fasting, prayers a n d other
prepa rations. On the last day the pub lic was i n vited to watch the p a rtic i pants pierce t h e i r flesh a n d end u re p a i n to prove t h e i r cou rage and enlist t h e pity of the l ife-giving s u n , the god of "good med i c i n e . "
CLOTHING, ORNAMENTS AND DECORATIONS blossomed out when trade goods, such as knives, cloth, beads, and guns, became available in the 1860's to the 1880's. Robes, parfleches, moccasins arid buckskin shirts were decorated with dyed porcupine quills and glass beads. Men painted designs on tipis and shields. They carved beautiful pipe bowls of red catlinite and made long pipe stems of ash. Each
tribe developed typical
designs,
and individual
craftsmen became famous. See examples on pp.
3 2 -33
and in local museums (pp. 148-150).
31
EARLY EXPLORERS AND TRADERS The fi rst white men to see the southern Rockies were Fra n c i sco Coronado and his men, who i n 1 540 ma rched n o rth from Mexico in sea rch of gol d . None of these Spa n i a rd s entered the region covered by thi s book except for two pa rties that came i nto s o u thern a n d western Colo rado a n d i n to Utah i n 1 775-6 a n d these sca rcely entered the Roc kies. D u r i ng the 17th centu ry a f l o u r i sh i n g f u r t rade had developed throu gho ut ea stern No rth America to meet the E u ropean m a r ket for beave r , m a rte n , m u s k rat, bea r a nd b u ffa l o. Beaver was i n spec i a l demand for men ' s high felt hats, a n d the s u pply of these a n i m a l s w a s ra p i d l y ex· ha u sted . By the ea rly 1700 ' s tra ppers and traders, known a s voyageurs a n d coureurs de bois, p u shed westward a l o n g the r i vers a n d throu gh' the G reat La ke s . These F rench, Engl i sh and Scotch a dventu rers traveled si ngly or i n s m a l l parties . They l i ved with the Ind i a n s a n d some m a rried Ind i a n women . The k n i ves a n d bea d s , g u n s and traps they brought were traded for f u rs, and Indians were encou raged to trap a n d hunt. This 1 72 8 m a p ma kes t h e first mention o f t h e Rockies (far left) Public Archives of Canada-from Trappers and Mountain Men. American Heritage Junior Library.
C. W. Jefferys-Coll. Paul J. W. Glasgow, courtesy Imperial Oil, ltd.-from Trappers and Mountain Men. American Heritage Junior library
verendrye's two s o n s travel i n g w estward towards the Rockies
One s u ch voyageur from Q uebec was Pierre Verend rye who, with h i s fou r son s, had a trad i ng post north of Lake S u perior. Here a s he tra ded , Verend rye p i c ked u p stories of westwa rd-flow i n g rivers a n d of " mou nta i n s that shi ne n i ght a n d day. " Later an I nd i a n made a crude cha rt of the route to the west a n d put the Rocky Mou nta i n s on a map for the fi rst t i me . Verend rye p u s hed westwa rd , b u i l d i ng a series of t ra d i n g posts. He moved on to the M a n d a n i n 1 73 8 a n d p rob a b l y got a s f a r west a s the B l a c k H i l l s i n 1742-43 . Du ring the next 50 yea rs it i s est i m ated that some 5 , 000 voyageurs worked west of the M i ssissi ppi . I n 1763 a French trader, Pierre Laclede, and his 1 4-year old stepson wor ked their way up the M i ssissippi to below the mouth of the M i ssou r i . Here Lac lede picked the site for a trad i ng post, whi ch he na med St. Lou i s . 35
Trappers and Mountain Men. American Heritage Junior library from Travels in the Interior of North America. Maximilian, Prinz zu Wied-Neuwid Yale University library
A conte m porary artist pictures a Gros Ventre Indian attack o n a keel boat at the m o uth of Montana' s Bighorn River in 1 8 3 3
took over most of the Roc kies as pa rt of t h e v a st 8 2 7 , 000 sq u a re m i le s a c q u i red as the Lou i s i a n a P u rc h a se from Fra n ce i n 1 803 . With $2, 500 voted by Congress, a n d with P resi dent Jefferso n ' s bless i n g , Meriwether Lewi s and Wi l l i a m C l a r k sta rted to explore the 1 5 m i l l i on d ol l a r p u rc h a se. They wi ntered i n Ma ndan I n d i a n v i l l ages in North Da kota a n d , with the hel p of a Shoshoni wom a n (p. 26), c rossed the Rockies i n 1 805, re t u r n i n g the next yea r. About the sa me ti me, Zeb u l on Pi ke headed west to d i scover the m o u nta i n t h a t bea rs h i s name. The opti m i st i c reports of Lewi s a n d C l a r k s ped Ameri can t r a p pers on thei r t ra i l . With i n a yea r they were work i n g the u pper M i sso uri and Pl atte rivers. One, John Colter, d i scovered the Yel l owstone geysers. Soon competi n g com p a n ies we re p u s h i ng thei r way i nto the Rockies. St. Lou i s beca me t h e capital o f t h e American f u r trade b y 1820 . From h e re keel boats we nt up the M i s s o u r i a n d its b r a nches ca rry i n g trade goods a nd bri ngi ng back f u r s . Mea n w h i le , i n Ca n a d a the H u d so n ' s B a y C o m pany merged with the N orth West Company i n 1 82 1 a n d com THE U NITED STATES
.36
b i ned thei r resou rces to p u sh the i r f u r trade i nto the Roc kies where F l a thea d a n d Kute n a i s u p p l ied the pelts. A me r i c a n c o m p a n ies were havi ng thei r trou bles with the B l a c kfoot a n d the Ari k a r a . They h i red a gents, a mong others M i ke F i n k, Jeded i a h Sm ith a n d J im B r idger, who re c r u i ted trappers a n <;! worked with them t h rough the moun ta i n s f r o m M o n t a n a to Co l o r a d o . E a ch yea r these moun tain men met nea r the G reen R i ver in southern Wyo m i ng to replen i sh s u p p l ies, to tra de a n d to m a ke merry. The l a st great ren dezvo u s wa s held i n 1 837. C h a ng i n g styles a n d overtra p p i ng had brought the f u r t rade to a ha lt. An other A merican, J o h n F remont, was a s u rveyor on a M i s s o u r i R i ve r exped ition i n 1 8 38-4 1 . He w a s j o i ned by Kit Carson i n exploring the Rockies. They m oved west, a n d after a period i n Cal ifo r n i a, F remont ret u r ned to su rvey Roc ky M o u n t a i n passes for a tra n sconti nenta l ra i l road . I nformation from thi s s u rvey p repa red the way for the c ross-co u ntry ra i l l i n k completed some ten yea rs later.
l a s t great trade rendezvous a l o n g t h e Green River i n Wyo m i ng ' s Wind River Mountains i n 1 8 37 Collection Everett D. Graff-from Trappers and Mountain Men. American Heritage Junior library
I. N. Phelps Stokes Collection, Prints Division, New York Public Library
Salt lake City as it appeared in 1 867
MINING AND SETTLEM ENT went ha n d i n hand a s the Rock ies were opened u p by traders a n d settlers. At the ti me of the Lou i s i a n a P u rcha se, the territory the U . S . a c q u i red had a n est i m ated po p u l a t i o n of 50, 000 to 8 0 , 0 0 0 , m a i n l y French. I t a l so i n c l u d e d a few descend· ants of the S p a n i sh settlers who had co me in 1763. E a r l y sett l e ments were tra d i n g cente r s , s u ch as New Orlea n s a n d St. Lo u i s . Gold l u red A meri cans westwa rd i n 1849. By 1880 over 2 0 0 , 000 had c rossed the M i s s i s s i p p i R i ve r . Of these, 1 00 , 000 entered Colorado i n the 1 8 5 9 g o l d r u sh . Settle· ments rose with each new m i n i ng fiel d , but m a ny beca me ghost towns as the ore gave out. M i n i ng in the Roc kies was not as easy as it wa s in Cal iforn i a . Not u nt i l 1890, when G uggenhe i m i n sta l led heavy machi nery , d i d l a rge·scale o perations begi n . Soon Colorado bec a me the leader in the prod uction of gold a nd s i l ver (Cripple Creek) a n d a l so p ro· d u ced co p per, lead a n d z i n c , ti n , m o l y bden u m a n d u ra· n i u m . Colorado has a l ready prod u ced a tota l of over six b i l l i on dol l a rs in meta l s and other m i nera l s . Utah wa s settled i n 1 847 b y Mormons fleei ng from per· sec u t i o n . M i ners, hea ded for the Cal iforn i a g o l d fields,
38
tre k ked thro u gh S a l t La ke C i ty. M a n y stayed on to farm a n d ra i se catt le. Some a l so found gold i n Utah; l ater , cop· pe r , s i l ve r , pet role u m a n d c o a l were d i scovered . U tah's u r a n i u m deposits rep resent 3 5 % of the nation ' s tota l . I n Monta n a , gol d was fo u n d i n the ea rly 1 860' s i n the M i so River, in Alder G u l c h , Vi rg i n i a City, a ro u n d B a n nock, a n d i n Last Cha nce G u l ch. Helena beca me the capita l . Tod a y M o nta n a sti l l m i nes c o p per, s i l ver, l ea d , z i n c , a l u · m i n u m , t u ngste n , u ra n i u m , pet role u m a n d coa l . I d aho gold wa s found nea r Orof i ne i n 1 86 0 ; s i l ver, i n the Coe u r d ' Alene a rea i n 1 884. The gol d r u sh bro u ght set· tiers. I d aho beca me a territory in 1 863 and a state i n 1 890. I d aho sti l l m i nes copper, a nti mony, m agnetite, zi nc a nd phos phates. Wyo m i n g , too, ha s great m i nera l reso u rces -coa l , pet role u m , bento n i te, i ro n , c o p pe r , u ran i u m , a n d phos· pha te. The f i rst two a re sti l l of i m porta nce. B u t the f i rst settlers i n Wyo m i ng came from f a r m l a n d s a n d they turned mainly to ra i s i ng sheep and cattle and to d a i rying. Helena, i n t h e newly organized Montana Territory, from a n 1 8 65 print Prints Divfsion, New York Public library
Southern Pacific Railroad-from Railroads in the Days of Steam. American Heritage Junior library
The joining of the rails in 1 86 9 at Promontory, Utah, completed the first trans continental ra i l road
A networ.k of ra i l roads to u n i te the conti nent and encou rage weste r n settlement wa s proposed to Congress before the C i v i l Wa r by Asa Whitney, a New Yor k mercha nt. Howeve r , the costs were h i gh a n d problems u n p recedented , I n 1 864, the No rth e r n Pacific Company was a u tho rized by Congress to con st r u ct a ra i lway from L a ke S u perior to P u get So u n d , by a n o rthern ro ute. The U n i on Pac i f i c R a i l road Co m pa ny was a u thorized to b u i l d a ra i l road f rom O m aha , Nebraska, through Wyo m i ng, U tah and Nevada to C a l iforn i a , joi n i ng the Centra l Pacific hea d i ng east from Sa n Fra ncisco. Congress d o nated to each project a 400-foot right-of way, a l l the stone, t i m ber a n d ea rth needed , p l u s l a nd grants of 1 2 , 800 acres for every m i le of track constructed. RAILROADS AND S ETT L EM ENT
40
I n a d d it io n the companies were given a 30-yea r loan , b a sed on esti m ated costs per m i le . Chi nese a n d I rish l a borers were i m po rted . Ma- , chi ne ry was brought a ro u nd C a pe H o r n a n d ove r l a n d . B r i d ges were b u i l t a n d t u n nel s bored . Herd s o f buffalo were s l a u ghtered to feed the work c rews . I n tri u m ph over great hard shi ps, the U n i o n Pacific met the Ce n t r a l P a c i f i c i n 1 869, 5 3 m i les out of Ogden , U tah. By thi s ti me, the Chi cago a nd N o rthwester n had rea ched The Kansas State Historical Society, Topekarrom Roi/,oods in the Days of Steam. Amedcon 0 m a h a a n d th e K a n sa s PaHeritage Junior library c i f i c had penet rated as fa r By the 1 870' s railroads were adverwest as Denver, to j o i n t he tising for both settlers a n d visitors U n ion Pac i f i c at Cheyen ne at a later d ate. N ow western fa rmers , cattlemen and m i n e rs had o utlets for the i r p rod u cts - both eastwa rd a nd westwa rd . The ra i l ro a d s , str u c k by the 1 873 d e p res s i o n , sent agents to the Ea st and to Eu rope to attract settlers and to sel l the i r h u ge l a n d hol d i ngs . They offered settlers chea p tra n s po rtat ion a n d f i n a n c i a l hel p . They succeeded i n get t i n g m a n y peo ple to b u y l a n d . The regi on ' s po p u l ation grew f rom u nder 200, 000 i n 1 870 to a l m ost a m i l l i on a n d a half in 1 8 90. Thi s , and the fen c i n g of the o pen r a n ge, settled the West. 41
H I ST O R I C A L
1 540- 1 1 743 1 7 76 1 793 1 803 1 805 -06 1 806-07 1 807 1 808-09 181 1 1 820 1 824 . 1 82 5 1 830 1 834 1 84 1 1 842 1 846 1 847 1 848 1 858 1 860 1861 1 863 1 867 1 867-69 1 869 1871 1 872 1 874 1 876 1 883 1 887 1 889 1 890 1891 1 896 1910 1 938 1 9 58 1 959
42
T I M ET A B L E
Coronado explores the southern Rockies i n New Mexico The Verend ryes visit the Wyoming Rockies Esca la nte penetrates north of Utah Rockies Alexa nder Mac Kenzie wi nters in the Ca nadian Rockies Lou i siana P u rchase includes eastern slope of Rockies Lewis and Clark cross and recross northern Rockies Pike explores the southern Colorado Rockies John Colter d i scovers the Yel l owstone basin American and M i ssouri fur companies established Astoria-Hunt Exped ition crosses central Rockies Long Exped ition to Colorado; fi rst a scent of Pikes Peak Great Salt Lake d i scovered by Jim B ridger and Peter Ogden First annual fur rendezvous, on Wyoming's G reen River Rocky Mountain Fur Company orga nized Fort Hall becomes fi rst major U.S. fort i n Idaho Rockies Ca l ifornia Tra i l t h rough South Pass opened Fremont's f i rst exped ition. Esta blishment of Oregon Tra i l Northwestern Rockies acq u i red f r o m Great Britain by U . S . Mormon settlers reach G reat S a l t La ke; esta b lis h State o f Deseret Southwestern Rockies acqui red from Mexico Gold rush to Colorado Rockies begins Pony Express inaugu rated across Rockies to San Franci sco Gold d i scovered in I d a h o ' s S n a k e River Va l l e y. C h eyen ne-Ara paho I nd i a n wars commence i n Colorado Montana gold rush Salt Lake Mormon Tabernacle completed . Western Sioux Wa r U . S. Geological Surveys in West commence First transcontinental rail l i n k s meet at Promontory, Utah Province of British Col umbia enters Confederation Yel lowstone created as fi rst national park Black H i l l s gold rush starts Battle of the Little Big Horn (Custer's Last Sta nd) Colorado adm itted to the Union as 38th state Northern Idaho's gold rush starts End of the open cattle range Montana becomes the 4 1 st state Idaho (43rd state) and Wyom ing (44th state) admitted to Union Cripple Creek, Colorado, gold rush starts Utah becomes 45th state in U n ion Casper, Wyo. , oil boom, leading later to Teapot Dom e sca ndal Big Thompson project, d iverting water to Eastern Slope, begins U.S. Air Force Academy opens on Colorado footh i l l s Yel l owstone earthquake
State of Colorado
The Front Range includes upraised and tilted sediments
Evidences of normal geologic cycles go back over a b i l l i on yea rs. Sea s i n va ded the l a n d ; layers of sed iments formed ; the l a n d rose, form i n g mo u nta i n s ; vo l c a n oes e r u pted . A n d with s l ow i n si stence s u n , wi n d , ra i n , rivers, a n d i ce l eveled the l a n d aga i n . Life s l owly developed . Some 60 m i l l ion yea rs ago a great series of sha rp u p l ifts folded, sq ueezed and elevated the roc ks to form the Rockies a nd the Andes. Later there was regional u p l ift. Vo l c a n i c acti on a nd deep movements of molten roc k brought vei ns of rich o res . G l a c iers have c u t va l leys, sha rpened pea k s , a nd c reated magn i f i cent scenery . For more about the rocks of the Rockies, read: Dyso n , J. l . , GEOLOG I C STORY OF GLAC I E R NAT. PARK, Glacier Nat. Assn . , B u l l . #3. 1 949 FenQema n , N. M . , PHYSIOGRAPHY OF WESTERN U . S . , McGraw- H i l l , N.Y. , R o s s and Reza k , ROCKS AND FOSS I LS O F GLAC I E R NAT. PAR K , Geo. Sur. Paper # 294- K , Govt. Printing Ofc . , Wa sh . , D . C . , 1959 Wegemann, C . H., A G U I DE TO T H E GEO LOGY OF ROCKY MT. NAT. PAR K , Printing Ofc . , Wa s h . , D . C . , 1 944
H i st. 1931 Prof . Govt.
43
THE HISTORY OF THE EARTH
Geological Time Divisions
Beginning of I nterval
Major Events of This Time
Characteristic Life of Period
C l i mate cold. M o u ntain a n d continental glaciation. later, s l a c i a l l a kes In mountain bases. Scattered volcanic action I n Yel low· stone a n d other areas.
Men entered the a rea from A s i a via A l a s k a a n d the N o rt hwest . C l i m ate cold. With retreat of ice, rem· n a nt s of a rctic l ife r e main isolated o n mou nta i n tops.
Uplift of Rocky Mts. In ...... ..... � crustal disturbances and volcenlc eruption. Mlny lnland .. kes, awa� and
Mamtnels � damlrlant ... ... ., ...... widelY- Graue$ tmd oth« fl� jileots d-'op.
flood p l llln s . Loc a l sed l · rnentery d e posits. Climate mild.
faW1118 � o1
63
135 181 230
W i despread d e serts give w a y to lowla n d s w h i c h are i nvaded by the sea. Fluctu· ating sea coasts with swamps a n d small basins. R i c h sed i mentary deposits .
D i nosa u r s a n d other rep· t i l e s d o m inate. B i r d s de· v e l o p and m a m m a l s ap p e a r . C y c a d s , tree ferns. c o n i f e r s a b o u n d . A m mo nites (p. 59) reach cli max.
280 310 345 405 425 500
Conti n u a l marine i nvasion and deposition of sedi· ments w i t h periods of e mergence. Abundant ma· rine life . Swamps and coal formatio n . Era ends i n s h a r p u p l ift, s u bs i d ence, erosion , and m uch aridity.
M a r i n e i nvertebrates and p l a n t s are common. Fi rst m a r i n e vertebrates de v e l o p . M osses a n d ferns a ppear; a l so g i a n t a mphib ians a n d f i rst repti les.
(million years)
Cenozoic Era Quaternary Period Recent .015 1 Pleistocene
Tert i e ry Ptriocl PliOCene MI-.
Olleoc Eoeene Paleocene
M esozoic Era Cretaceous J u rassic Triassic
Paleozoic Era Permian Penn sylva n i a n Mississippian Devon ian Silurian Ordovi c i a n Cambrian
44
13 25 36 58
600
·
c a mera. h o rses, ll ftd other lflllna a nill'lll a.
IN T H E ROCKY MOUNTAINS
W h ere Seen i n R ocky M o u ntains
Craters of t h e M o o n , Yel l o wstone, Glacier N ational Park, Tetons, Rocky Mt. N at i o n a l P a r k , W i n d R i ver M o u nta i n s .
G r e e n R i ver and U i n t a B a s i n s . Absa· roka M o u nt a i n s , Devi l ' s Tower, Mid· die Park, Florissant, Cri p p l e Creek, Rocky Mt. N a t i o n a l Park, and Black Canyon of the G u n n ison •
B l ack Canyon of the Gunn ison, Colo· rado N at i o n a l M o n . , D i n o s a u r Nat. M o n . , Wyoming Ra nge.
• .
'
.
.
Tetons, G ros Ventre Mt., Little Rocky M t s . , Litt l e Belt M t s . , Garden of the Gods, Big Horn M t s . , B a nff, Lake Lo u i s e , Wind R i v e r Mts . • Laramie R a nge, A s p e n , D i n osa u r Nat. Mon . , Wyo m i n g R a n g e , Wasatch Range.
B l ack Canyon of the G u n n ison, Colo rado Nat. M o n . , U i nta M t s . , G l acier Park, Tetons, Rocky Mt. N a t. Park, P i kes Pea k , Royal G o rge.
45
MOUNTAIN B U ILDING i n the Roc k ies is a tremendous, complex p rocess d i fferi n g from p l a ce to p l a ce . N owhere is it as simple as the pictu res show. When the ol dest rocks were formed , a bout 2 b i l l i o n yea rs ago, the a rea had p roba b l y a l ready gone through cycles of mo u nt a i n b u i l d · i ng a n d destr uctio n . Thi c k l a yers of sed iments formed in the l oca l sea s . Later molten gra n i te fl owed i nto these sed i· me nts a n d the region wa s u p l ifted . The sed i ments were a ltered as a range of a ncient mounta i n s formed ( 1 ). These were slowly worn down u nti l the l a n d was aga i n nea rly flat (2). Seas encroached and new sed iments were depos· 1 A n c i e n t m o u n t a i n s of g r a n i te and altered s e d i ments formed more than 600 m i l l ion years ago.
2 Mounta i n s worn flat; seas encroach; more sed i ments a re d e posited . About 350- 5 50 m i l l i on years ago.
The Tetons are a classic example of mounta i n
building
i n the Rockies
ited in the sha l l ow ba s i n s . Then fo l l owed a l o n g period of . f l u ct u a t i o n . Often the l a nd was s u b merged a n d m a r i ne sed i ments were depos ited . Someti mes it w a s elevated to form loca l m o u n ta i n s (3) whi ch were a ga i n worn d own by r a i n a n d r u n n i ng water. D u r i n g the Age of Repti les ( Mesozo i c Era) extensive sha l l ow seas covered western North Ameri ca . Where l a nd was u p l ifted it was low a n d swa m py. Coa l formed , and d i nosa u r s wa l l owed in swa m p s (4) . Late r the c l i mate cha nged a n d beca me d rier. D i nosa u rs beca me ext i nct. A period of mou nta i n b u i l d i ng began a l l thro u gh the West. 3 U p l ift creates local mountain ranges
which a re soon worn down. About 320 m i l l i o n years ago.
4 Seas cover wide area; local upl ift
with swa m p s , coal and l o w l a n d sed i, ments. 1 00-200 m i l lion years ago.
5 Great u p l ift, f o l d i n g a n d f a u lting mark begi n n i n g of present Rockies. About 60 m i l l ion years ago.
6 Erosion, f u rt h e r u p l i ft, a n d many volca n oes mark f u rt h e r growth of Rockies. 2 0 - 5 0 m i l l i on years ago.
The modern Rockies sta rted with u p l ifts squeezi ng a nd fold i n g the rocks (5). Fol d s overtu rned and split; cracks or f a u lts permitted f u rther movements . Thi s took m i l l ions of yea r s . E rosi o n c u t away the m o u n ta i n s . Late r the re was regional u p l ift with widespread vol ca n i c action (6). E rosion cont i n ued; rivers cut deeper gorges. The n , as the c l i mate cha n ged , g l a ciers gouged the m o u n ta i n s (7) . M u ch of No rth A merica was covered with i ce. As i t melted , great i n l a n d l a kes formed and eventu a l l y d ra i ned . On l y remna nts of glac iers a re seen in the Rockies (8) but ea rthq ua kes , as i n Yel l owstone in 1 959, rem i n d us that m o u n ta i n b u i l d i ng i s n ot yet at an end . 7 M o re erosion; glaciation on moun· t a i n s and northern plains. Several ice advances, 20-50,000 years ago.
8 I ce melts; glaciers retreat until only
remnants and debris rema i n . C l i mate w a rming to present day.
Bob and Ire S_pring
A ton g u e of the C o l u m b i a lcefield, MI. Athabaska, Jasper National Park, Al berta
form when s u m mers a re n ot wa r m e n o u gh to melt the wi nte r ' s acc u m u lation of snow. The l a st great period of g l a c i ation began about a m i l l ion yea rs ago. Snow p i led u p a n d cha nged to i ce, a n d as ice bec a me a m i le or more thi c k it bega n to "flow . " Cont i nenta l glaciers moved south over ea stern a n d central No rth Amer i c a , N . Eu rope a n d Asi a . I n the high Rockies, s m a l ler va l ley glaciers f o r med on m o u nta i n s l o pes a n d moved d ownhi l l , c a rving a nd deepe n i n g val leys on the way. The i ce p i c ked u p rock debris whi ch it d ropped to form morai nes. Three m ajor adva nces and retreats of the i ce sheets have been detected i n the Rockies. About 2 0 , 000 yea rs ago s l i ghtly hi gher te m peratu res sta rted the l a st retreat. As i ce melted , gla c i a l l a kes were formed . Deep U - sha ped va l leys were exposed , as were mora i nes a n d the c u p- sha ped ci rq ues that m a r k the o r i g i n of glaciers. Tod a y s m a l l va l ley gl aciers a re sti l l seen , a n d evidence of ea rl ier g l a c i ation is every where. A b o ut a d ozen promi nent gl aciers c a n be seen i n the Rockies. GLAC I ERS
49
National Film Board, Canada
VALLEY G LACI E R S are rivers of ice, m o v i n g o n l y a few feet a year. When ice p i l e s u p fa ster than i t melts, it flows slowly d o w n h i l l c a r ryi n g rock d e b r i s w i t h it. W h e n ice melts fa ster than it acc u m u lates, the glacier retreats. A typical va l l ey glacier i s shown on p. 49.
M O R A I N E S are glacial tra s h piles of rock, s a n d a n d gravel ( g l a c i a l till) d u m ped a l ong t h e s i d e s , bottom and end of a glacier a s it melts. A retreat ing g l a c i e r may leave a s e r i e s of ter m i n a l m o r a i n e s w h i c h o c c a s i o n a l ly h o l d s m a l l l a kes. Above is a moraine i n t h e Col u m bia lcefi e l d , J a sper N . P.
C I R Q U ES mark the heads of g l a ciers. Here snow collects and cha nges to ice. Freezing and thawing brea k u p the rock w a l l s , en la rging t h e cirque. When glaciers melt t h e cirque remains, often enclosing a tiny l a ke of icy-blue water. I ce b e rg Lake f i l l s a c i r q u e (below) in Glacier N. P.
U · S H A P E D V A LLEYS c u t by g l aciers contrast with V-shaped valleys of swift rivers. Va l l ey w a l l s m a y s h o w glacial pol i s h i n g a n d groov i n g , e v i d e n ce of g l a c i a l eros i o n . G l a c i a l v a l l ey s , b u r dened with t i l l , may contain small strea ms. This glacial v a l l e y r u n s east from G r i n n e l l G lacier in G l a c i e r N . P .
Bob and Ira Spring
Bob and Ira Spring
Fran Hall-National Audubon Society
Hot springs with sulfur deposits ( l eft) and Castle Geyser ( r i g ht), in Yel l owstone National Park
in the Rockies has gone on for 50 m i l l i on years. O l d volcanoes, l ava f l o w s a n d m o u nt a i n s of i gneou s rocks ( P - 52) a re d i rect evidence. Seconda ry effects a re seen as ra i n water works down to depths where the rocks a re sti l l heated . Thi s water may ret u rn to the s u rface through stea m vents or fuma roles , in hot s pri ngs, mud v o l c a n oes a n d · geysers. All these can be seen in Yel l ow stone N a t i o n a l P a r k . H ot s p r i ngs occ u r widely f rom Colo rado n o rth i nto the Canad i a n Rockies. VOLCANIC ACTION
C l iff Geyser a l o n g t h e b a n k s of I ron C reek, a tributary of t h e Firehole River Bob and Ira Spring
form f a r be· l o w the s u rfa ce ( i n t r u s i ve), or on the s u rf a ce (ext r u s i ve). I n· t r u s i ve roc ks cool s l owly; their m i nera l s deve l o p as c ry stals. Granite i s i nterloc k i ng c rysta ls of q u a rtz, feldspar a n d m i ca or a n other d a r k m i nera l . Pegma· tite i s a coa rse gra n i te. Gabbro i s i nt r u s i ve rock r i ch i n dark m i nera l s . Most ext r u s i ve rocks a re vo l c a n i c . Basalt, a d a rk l a va , may be den se or f u l l of gas bu b b les (scoria). Obsidian o r volca n i c g l a s s i s l a va whi ch has cooled ra p i d ly. Some lavas a re ri che r i n q u a rtz a n d feld· spa r. Rhyolite i s chem i ca l ly l i ke gra n ite . Pumice is a l ight, frothy rhyo l i te . I g neo u s r o c k s grade i nto one a n other so recogn ition may be d iffi c u lt.
IGNEO U S ROC KS
SE D I M EN TARY ROCKS form f rom f r a g ments of o l der roc k worn d own by water, wind o r i ce, or by che m i c a l a cti o n . These, the most c o m m o n rocks i n the R o c k ies, form in l ayers-the yo u n ger ones a bove the o l der. Conglomerate is peb b les or l a rger fragments ce me nted together ; B reccia is a c o n g l o merate of a ngu l a r f rag ments. Sanc?stone is a roc k of s a n d gra i n s cemented by s i l ica, l i me o r i ron oxi d e . A rkose, a sand stone w ith gra i n s of fel dspar, typi cal of rapid eros i o n , i s co m mon i n the Rockies. Mudstone a nd shale a re ha rdened m u d s a n d c l ays. S h a le s p l i ts i nto t h i n layers. Lime stone comes from shel l s or cora l , o r i s che m i c a l l y deposited i n the sea . Gypsum i s deposited as l a n d l oc ked sea s eva porate s l owly.
conglomerate
M ETAM ORPH I C ROC KS a re roc ks of a ny k i n d whi ch have bee n a l tered i n a major way by heat, p res s u re , or chemi cal a ct i o n . S u ch a l terat i o n may ta ke p l a ce d u ri ng moun t a i n b u i l d i ng. The p rocess may be s i m ple, a s when sand stones a re compressed and ha rdened i nto quartzite, or when l i mestones become marble. Both of these rocks occ u r i n the Rockies. Sha les a nd m u d stones beco me slate, a n d , if the p rocess conti n ues, phyllite forms w i th fine s pecks of m i c a . F u rther met a m o r phi s m p rod u ces schist, i n whi ch the m i ca is much more promi nent. Someti mes meta morph i s m so a lters roc k that the origi n a l material c a n not be recog n i zed . Gneiss i s a coa rse-textu red , pa rtly recrysta l l i zed roc k of va r i o u s origi n s . H i ghl y meta mor phosed rocks may be s i m i l a r to gra n i te.
w h ite m a r b l e
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54
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�OCKY MOU NTAI N M I N E RAL , N O ORE DEPOSITS Sb Cu Au Fe Pb Mn
Antimony Copper Gold I ron lead
Hg Mo Ag Ta Ti
Mercury Molybdenum Silver Tantalum Titanium Tungsten Uranium Zinc
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made the Rocky Mou nta i n s famo us. Explorers were enticed by them. I nd i a n s were a n tagonized , p ro s pecto rs rewa rded , i n d u stries esta bl i shed , a n d settle me nts beg u n beca u se of them . G o l d a n d s i l ver were the o r i g i n a l attra cti o n s tho u gh these a re no l o n ge r of p rime i m porta n ce. The region has rich deposits of c o p per, u ra n i um and molybden um, and commerc i a l deposits of lead, z i n c , tungste n , and i ron. Coa l deposits and natural gas a re adeq u ate; o i l reserves ( i n c l u d i ng oil sha le) a re plenti f u l . Non -meta l l i c deposits i n c l ude marble and other b u i ld i n g sto nes , c l ays, fel d s p a r , phosphates, f l u o rite, mica, a n d gypsum. A rich va riety of gem and ornamenta l stones a ttracts amate u r col lecto rs. MINERA L DEPOSITS
55
a re deposits from which some p rod u ct s u ch as meta l s ca n be profita bly extra cted . Some y i e l d a s i n gle meta l ; more often an ore complex yield seve ra l .
ORES
G O L D and SILVER are m a i n l y invisible. S m a l l b u t i m portant a m o u n t s are fo u n d today. Only i n t h e early days,
when gold was panned i n strea ms, did m i ners find v i s i b l e gol d . Even then, n u ggets were rare.
C H ALCOCITE, a dark, h eavy ore of cop· per and s u l f u r , occ u rs widely with rich d e posits near B utte, Montana.
M ALACHITE and AZURITE, two copper ores, occ u r together. Formed by action of air and water on c h a l cocite.
GALENA i s t h e major ore of lead , a c o m p o u n d of lead a n d su l f u r often conta i n i n g s i l ver. A heavy si lvery ore; often has c u b i c cleavage.
SPHALERITE or zinc blende is the zinc o r e , a c o m p o u n d of z i n c a n d s u lfur. I t s color varies from yellow to b rown; often resi n o u s .
U s u a l ly the meta l is i n chem i c a l combination and m u st be ref i ned . O res a re genera l ly a s soci ated with i gneous roc ks. They occ u r in vei n s or pockets.
CAR N OTITE i s a complex ore of u ra n i u m and vanad i u m . U s u a l ly found as y e l l o w strea k s or g r a i n s in sedi men· tary rocks.
D E N ITE, a c o m p o u n d mo· lybd e n u m and s u l f u r , i s a soft, meta l l i c , f l a k y ore of t h e metal u s ed in tool- steel a l loys.
P Y R I TE, o r fool ' s gol d , i s a b right s h i n y c o m p o u n d of iron and sulfur. N ot an ore of i r o n , it i s often a ssoci ated with other ores.
G Y PS U M , calc i u m fl uoride, pu rple or green, occ u rs i n vei n s . M i ned com merci a l l y i n Col o . , i t i s u sed a s a flux · i n steel m a k i ng.
FELDSPARS a re a group of s i l icate minerals found i n most igneous rocks. Rich Colo. d e p o s i t s a re m i n e d for cera mic flux a n d pottery glazes.
FLUORITE, f o r m e d by eva p o r a t i o n of a n c i e n t seas, is u s e d in m a k i n g plas· ter a n d cement. O n e form, a l a baster, i s ca rved a n d sold a s c u rios.
GEMS, sem i - p reci o u s a n d o r n a menta l stone s , a re fou n d . S o me , l i ke topa z , coru n d u m a n d beryl , occ u r i n i g neous vei n s o r in pegmatite i ntrusions. Amazon i te, a g reen feld spar from P i kes Pea k, i s a n i nterest i n g l oca l ge m . Most c o m m o n a n d best known a re q u a rtz ge m s . C rysta l l i ne q u a rtz i n c l u des rock crysta l , smoky q u a rtz , citri ne a nd a methyst Noncrysta l l i ne q u a rtz i n c l u des c h a l cedony, jas per , ca rnel i a n s a n d severa l k i n d s of a gates . Moss agate h a s i nc l usions of dendrites-a ma nga nese m i nera l .
58
FOSSILS u n eq u a led el sewhere i n the world have been f ound i n the Rockies and adjacent P l a i n s . Ca m b ri a n sha les of the Ca n a d i a n Rockies ha ve yiel ded rema r ka ble i nverte b rate fos s i l s . I n the Mesozoic deposits of Colorado a nd Wyo m i n g a re bones of m a n y g i a n t d i nosa u rs . The basic resea rch o n these a n i m a l s w a s d o ne from fossi l s of this region. Fossi l s of ea rly horses , pigs, camel s a n d elepha nts have bee n d u g u p a l so . See reconstru cted s keletons and resto rati o n s in m u se u m s (p. 1 48). M a ke i n q u i ries a bout s m a l l -scale col lecting i n l ocal fossil bed s (p. 1 5 2). ASTRAS P I S , a pri m itive, j a w l e s s fish
of Ordovician age (p. 44) from Canon City, Colo. i s one of the oldest known fossil vertebrates .
.,
A M M O N ITES, a l a rge g ro u p of s h e l l f i s h with c h a m bered s h e l l s , b e c a m e e x t i n c t i n the Cretaceo u s . Some were complex; 2-3 ft. in d i a mete r .
. I N OCERAMUS, relative of the oysters, w a s a n a b u n d a n t a n i m a l i n s h a l low s e a s when d i n o s a u rs were at their height. Length 1 - 1 0 in.
D I N OSAU RS a re a fa med gro u p of exti nct re ptiles which rea ched thei r pea k d u ri n g the Mesoz o i c E ra . Some were a s s m a l l a s chi c kens, others the l a rgest l a n d a n i mals known. These l a rgest d i nosa u rs were swa m p- d wel l i ng p l a n t eaters. Relatives of the d i nosa u rs i n c l u ded flying , m a r i ne l i z a rd s a n d c rocod i l e- l i ke repti l
B R O NTOSA U R US, 7 0 ft. long, l ived in m a r s h e s of Wyo . and U t a h i n J u rassic. Ate . water p l a n ts. Esti mated weight 3 5 tons.
DI PLODOCUS, longer b u t l i g hter, n e e d e d a bo u t 700 l b s . of p l a n t food d a i l y . Lengt h , 85 ft . ; h e i g h t , 16 ft. Common at Dinosa u r Nat. Mon.
STEGOSA U R US, a heavily armored, s m a l l - b r a i n e d , p l a nt-eating d i nosaur a bo u t 2 0 ft. long. Foss i l s from the J u rassic of Wyo ming and Utah.
TYRANNOSAURUS, la rgest flesh -eater, stood 20 ft. h i g h . Length, 40 ft. Great j a w s with m a n y s h a r p teet h . C reta ceous; Monta n a .
ALPI N E P H LOX (2-4 i n . ) forms a flat c u s h ion amid a l p i n e roc ks. I s covered w i t h p a l e b l u e o r w h i t e five-petaled fl owers i n m i d s u m mer.
S K Y PILOT ( 2 - 4 i n . ) blooms all sum mer with sky- b l u e , funnel-shaped flow ers. Leaves, with s k u n ky o d o r , are long, narrow; with oval leaflets.
The form i d a ble m ou n ta i n backbone of N o rth America i s a v a ried reg i o n , r a n g i n g from the d ry pra i ries to the east, u p the m o u nt a i n s , with thei r l u sh mea dows a n d forests, to the frigid pea ks, then down to the even more a r i d i n ter m o u n ta i n region to the west. I n these va ried envi ron ments g row between 6 , 000 a n d 7 , 000 s pecies of w i l d pla nts. O m itt i n g the p l a i n s a nd the a r i d p l a tea u s red uces the n u m ber to a bout 4 , 500 mounta i n species - a m ple proof that thi s a rea i s r i ch i n p l a n t l i fe. Loc a l conditions of elevati o n , s l o pe, wind, ra i nfa l l , a nd s o i l affect p l a nt envi ron ments. The pattern of p l a n t com m u n ities i s com plex. For more i nformat i o n , read : Craighea d , Craighea d , a n d Davi s , F I ELD G U I DE T O ROCKY MOUNTA I N W I LD FLOWERS, H oughton Miff l i n Co., Boston, 1 963. 209 f u l l -color photos. Nelson, R. A., PLANTS O F ROCKY MT. N ATI O N A L PAR K , Was h i ngton, D . C . , Govern ment Printing Office, 1 953. Excel lent g u i d e to central Rockies. Standley, P. C., PLANTS O F GLAC I E R N AT I O N A L PAR K , Wa s h i ngto n , D . C . , Gove r n m e n t P r i n t i n g Offi ce, 1 9 26. S i m i l a r to N e l s o n w i t h e m p h a s i s on northern Rockies. Weber, W i l l i a m A . , H A N D BOOK O F PLANTS O F T H E COLO RADO FRONT RANGE, U n iversity of Colorado Press, 1 96 1 . Keys a n d h a bitat notes o n reg ion from Colorado Springs to Wyo m i ng l i n e .
61
M OSS C A M P I O N ( 'h - 3 i n . ) , common i n t h e h i g h R o c k ; e s , f o r m s flat " mossy" c u s h i o n s . Small , p i n k flow· ers with notched petals bloom in J uly a n d August.
A L P I N E S U N F LOWER (4 - 6 i n . ) has l a rge, bright yellow flowers and stems with deeply divided, h a i ry leaves. The flower head turns with the sun .
KI NG'S CROWN (2-8 in.) favors high, wet, rocky places: Termi nal clusters of d a r k red flowers open i n July. The le aves a r e t h i c k , s m ooth a n d fleshy.
ALPI N E AVENS (2- 1 0 i n . ) i s the com· mon est flowe r a bove t i m berl i n e . Its yellow, fi ve-petaled flowers bloom i n m i d s u mmer. Deeply divided-leaves a re red in aut u m n .
ALPI N E FOR G ET- M E- N OT ( 1 - 2 in.) b l o o m s m i d s u m m e r a t or a bove tim· berline. Small b l u e or white flowers with yellow "eye"
small " c o u s i n " of Monta n a ' s state flower, h a s n a r row f l e s h y leaves i n a cl uster at ground leve l , and sma l l pink or white flowers.
ARCTIC GENTIAN (3-6 in.) i s com· mon at a n d a bove t i m b e rl i n e ; blooms late (Aug. a n d Sept.). Flow ers a re , green i s h-streaked a n d spotted with p u rple. Leaves opposite.
l a rge, yellow flowers with six recu rved peta l s , blooms on a l p i n e slopes right after the reced i n g snow l i n e .
63
WHITE MARSH M A RIGOLD (3-8 i n . ) t h r i v e s i n m o i s t s u ba l p i n e a r e a s . T h e o v a l leaves are s mooth a n d shi ny. Fruits are a c l u ster of na rrow pods. PYROLA (6- 1 2 i n . ) bears nodding, five-peta l e d , p i n k flowers on stem fro m a ro sette of s h i ny , evergreen C o m m o n i n m o i st coniferous Several s i m i l a r species.
P U R P L E F R I N G E ( 2 - 1 2 i n .) grows in s ma l l c l u m p s o n o p e n , d ry h i l l s i des. Flowers from J u n e to Aug. S i l ky h a i rs on d e e p l y d i v i d e d leaves m a k e plan1 s i lvery.
TWI N FLOWER (3-6 i n . ) carries its paired, p i n k , nodding blossoms on u p r i g h t sta l k s . T h e c r e e p i n g p l a n t with p posite l eaves covers the gro u nd in ool, shady wood s.
P A R R Y P R I M R O S E ( 6 - 2 4 i n . ) g rows a l ong mountain streamsides. Its large, five-peta l e d , p i n k - p u r p l e flowers are s k u n k - scented . I t blooms i n J u ly and Augu st. S U BALPI N E DAISY ( 1 - 2 ft.) i s the com mon meadow d a i sy flowering in J u l y a n d Aug. N ote its n a rrow, p i n k ray-flowers, a r o u n d a y e l l o w d i sc. Leaves are deeply cut.
R E D ELEPHANT ( 1 - 2 ft.) p r efers m a r s h y g ro u n d . R ed d i s h - p u rple flow ers, with a c o m i c a l rese m b l a nce to elephants' heads, bloom i n a terminal s p i ke.
pink b u d s a n d nodding blue blos so m s , are fo u n d a l o n g s u b a l p i ne brooks. Blooms J u n e to A u g . Several s i m i l a r species.
CO LOR A D O COL U M B I N E ( 1 - 2 ft.), flower of Colorado, prefers s p e n groves a nd h i g h m e a dows. Look for l a rge, blue-and-white, sourred blossoms on slender sta l ks.
"'s state
M O N U M E N T PLANT ( 1 - 4 ft. ) i s a s t o u t p l a n t of o p e n p i n e woods and clearings. U pper half of its l eafy stem is t h i c k l y covered with gree n i s h-white flowers. !! EAR G RASS (2-5 ft.) grows on h i l l · s i d e s t o a n d a bove t i m be r l i n e in Montana and Idaho. Tiny flowers bloom u pward g ra d u a l l y from base of te r m i n a l c l u ster.
G LOBEFLOWER ( 1 -2 ft.) prefers high, s u b a l p i n e m e a d o w s . Crea m to wh ite flowers produce a gro u p of small pods. Leaves are a lternate, d ivided into 5-7 smooth " f i ngers . " WEST E R N GOLDEN R A G WORT ( 1 -3 ft.), one of m a n y s i m i l a r composites. Fou n d a l o n g roadsides up to t i m ber· l i n e . This species i s b u s h y with many
Y LLOW M O N K EY FLOWER (6-24 i n . ) i s a b u n d a n t o n b r o o k s i d e s . Fl owers have a swol len " pa late" w h i c h closes the t h roat and causes a facial resemblance.
FI R E W E E D ( 2 - 5 ft . ) grows w i d e l y in t h e open, particularly o n burned-over forests; hence its n a m e . W i n d s carry t he downy seeds for great d i stances. A great honey p l a n t . R OSY PAI N T B R U S H (6- 1 5 in.) has pink to purple flower bracts. Hybridiza tion with w h ite- and yellow-flo wered s pecies produces a great vari ety of colors. S U B A L P I N E L A R K S P U R (2-4 ft.) g rows i n dense clumps i n wet mead· ows c l o s e to t i m be r l i n e . Terminal s p i ke s of d e e p blue (rarely, p i n k)
M O N KS H O O D or Ac o nite ( t o 6 ft.) h a s cowl-shaped , d e e p blue (rarely, wh ite) flowers. Grows i n suba l p i n e meadows and a s pen groves . Poi sonous to graz ing stoc k.
F OWERS OF THE FOOT H I LLS A N D MOU NTA I N VALLEYS
-J1r
•ft . ) , is a h a nd s o m e peren n i a l with t r u m pet-sha ped, red to cream flowers in a loose c l u ster. Abu ndant in can yons a nd sage b r u s h .
are c o m m o n on h i l l sides but close be and a re t h e refore often
PEA ( 6 - 1 8 i n . ) b l a n kets val ley floors with bright-yellow flowers in J u n e and J u l y . Leaves have t h ree leaflets, l i ke clover.
S U L P H U R FLOWER (5- 1 5 i n . ) , abun dant i n dry s u b a l p i n e foot h i l l s , has c l u sters of yellow flowers and whorled leaves rising from a rosette.
GAI LLARDIA ( 1 - 2 ft.) blooms a l l sum· mer i n footh i l l s , woods, and meadows. Its y e l l o w flower h e a d s have reddish centers. Also cal led " F i re-wheel s . "
W E S T E R N WALLFLO W E R ( 1 - 2 ft.}, common on open pine slopes, has fo u r- peta l e d , yellow-to-orange and brown flowers. Alpine types may be p u re yellow or violet.
BALSAM ROOT (8- 1 8 i n . ) grows from a t h i c k , e d i b l e , t u r p e n t i n e - sce nted ta p root . Leaves a re s i l k y and wh ite on both s i d e s . C o m m o n o n h i l l sides; blooms early spring.
s h r u b (sou rce of r u bber) with na rrow l eaves and woolly stem s i n sagebrush zone. S m a l l yellow h e a d s i n late
S H OOTI N G STARS (6 - 1 0 i n . ) are wood l a n d and wet- m e a d o w p l a nt�. The flowers, with five i n verted peta l s , grow i n d r o o p i n g c l u st e r s . Leaves a t base o f ta l l , na ked f l o w e r sta l k .
MANY- FLOWERED EVEN I NGSTAR (612 i n . ) opens its showy yellow f lowers in late afternoon . Has sal mon-colored buds and t h i c k , deeply notched l eaves. M I N ER ' S C A N D L E (8- 1 8 i n . ) has clus ters of s m a l l white flowers along its t h i c k , erect stem. Leaves h a i ry, a l most prickly. Blooms J u ne and J u ly.
M O U NTAI N L U P I N E ( 1 - 2 ft.) is also c a l led Si lvery L u p i n e beca use of its w h ite h a i ry foliage. B l u e to p u rple s p i kes of flowers bloom in early su mmer.
ROCKY M O U NTAI N LOCOWEED {101 8 i n . ) bears w hit e or l a v e n d e r flow ers i n elongated c l u sters from spring t h rough s u m mer. I t i s sometimes poi-
I N D I A N PAI NTB R U S H ( 1 - 3 ft.) has bri l l i a n t red bracts s u r r o u n d i n g the blosso m s . Pa rti a l l y parasitic, it often grows atta c h ed to roots of sagebrush a n d other p l a nts.
a mong rocks well into fa l l , often above timberline.
H E A R T L E A F A R N ICA (8-24 i n . ) is co m mo n i n evergreen wood s . Large, yel l o w flowers b l o o m a l l s u m mer. Note t h e p a i rs of l a rge h e a rt- s h a ped leaves.
CALYPSO (3-6 i n . ) , o r Fa i ry S l i p per, is a lovely o r c h i d bloom i n g i n early s u m me r i n m o i st woo d s . D e l i cate, s l i p p e r- l i ke b l o s s o m nods a bove a single eaf .
J
M A R I POSA LI LY (6- 1 8 i n . ) bears t u l i p- l i ke flowers, white or p u r pl i s h , on s l e n d e r ste m s . B l o o m s i n o pen meadows and m a rg i n s of woods in early s u m mer.
WESTERN CLEMATIS i s a vine com· m a n i n t h e foot h i l l s . Note c l u sters of w h i te f l o w e r s , c o n s p i c u o u s feath ery fruits, and leaves of 5-7 leaflets.
71
NOW-ON-TH E-MOU NTAIN ( 1 - 3 ft. ) i s related to Poi n sett i a . N ote t h e white m a rg i n s of the upper leaves. Its m i l ky s a p is poisonous a n d may i rritate skin.
P E N ST E M O N ( 1 - 3 ft.) bears
b l o o m s i n m i d s u m mer, t4" so rrleti m
SCAR LET G L O B E M ALLOW (4- 1 0 in.) forms clumps on d i st u rbed soi l , es peci a l l y a l o n g r o a d s i d e s . Flowers re s e m b l e s m a l l h o l l y h o c k s or h i b i scus. R O C KY M O U NTAI N F R I N G E D GE N TI A N ( 1 2 - 1 6 in.) i s f o u n d i n wet meadows or swa mps. Its striking, deep· b l u e flowers have ragged lobes.
ROCKY M O U N T A I N B E E lf LAN T forms dense sta nds 4-8 feet high a l ong roadsides a n d i n dry p l a ces. Its flowers' rich necta r attracts bees and other i n sects.
C O N I F E R S OF U PPER FO R E ST A N D T I M B E R L I N E
ALPI N E LARC H , o r Ta m a r a c k ( t o 60 ft . ) , h a s cl u sters of m a n y d e c i d uous need l e s grow i n g from s h o rt s h oots. Cones, 2 in. long, have pointed bracts between s c a l e s . Often a stunted tim· berl i n e tree. N ew twigs are covered with white woo l . Foliage blue-green.
S U BALPI N E F I R grows 50- 1 00 ft. but may be a prostrate s h r u b at t i m ber· l i n e . Needles a re flat, deep blue-green, bl u nt and u p c u rved. Cones are dark a n d , a s with all firs, erect. Cone scales fa l l separately, leavi n g the " c a n d l e" standing on the tree.
E N G E L M A N N S P R U C E (60- 1 20 ft.) forms p u re stands b u t i s a l so " found with l.!odgepole Pine and S u b a l pine Fir. Ra nges from 3 , 000 ft. i n north to 1 2 , 0 0 0 i n s o u t h . C o m pact a n d hand· some, and of great commercial va l u e. Yo u n g trees may have a i l very tinge.
LI M B E R PINE (25-60 ft . ) , na med for f l e x i b l e young b r a n c h e s ; grows in roc ky, exposed places. Needles, 3 i n . , a r e crowded i n b u n d l e s o f 5 a t ends of twigs. Cone scales are t h i c kened but not spine-tipped. Wh iteheart Pine replaces it i n northern Rockies.
B ROAD-LEAVED T R E ES A N D S H R U BS OF T H E
W I LLOWS of many species, nearly all s h r u b s , grow i n prof u s i o n a long st rea m s a n d on s l o p e s n e a r t i mber l i n e . I l l u strated i s Creeping Wi l l ow, a s h r u b t h a t stands only 2 i n . h i g h and grows a bove t i m be r l i n e i n M o ntana and Wyoming. All w i l lows have catkins or "pussies . "
WATER B I R C H ( 1 0 - 2 5 ft.) is a s p r ea d i n g s h r u b or s m a l l tree with r e d d i s h - brow n , n o n - pe e l i n g bark and twigs covered with res i n o u s l u m ps. I t is a l ways f o u n d c l ose to streams. Leaves t u r n a b e a u t i f u l yellow i n a u t u m n . B o g B i r c h i s a t i m berline shrub.
M O U NTAI N DRYAS i s a low, creeping s h r u b with s m a l l , toothed l e aves, w o o l l y b e n e a t h , a n d w h i t i s h , eight petaled flowers. Forms d a r k green mats a bove ti mberl ine. A typical alpine p l a nt found i n high m o u n t a i n s of N o rth America, Asia and E u rope.
T W I N B E R R I ES (3 - 6 ft . ) a re true h o neys u c k l e s . S m a l l , y e l l o w , t u bular flowers a r e b o r n e i n pairs on a slen· der ste m . Bracts at their base later turn red and enclose two purplish black berries. Deer and e l k browse on t h e m i n winter.
·
U P P E R FOR ESTS A N D TI M B E R L I N E
M O U NTAI N A S H (3- 1 2 ft.) i s a shrub, sometimes a small tree. La rge clus· te r s of w h ite flowers a n d b r i l l iant orange-red berries i n fa l l . Found mainly i n s u b a l p i n e z o n e i n m o i st sites; p l a nted orna menta l l y at lower ranges. Serviceberry is i n same (Rose) family.
R OCKY M O U NTAI N M A P L E i s some· ti mes a tree 25 feet h i g h but more often a s h r u b of w i d e a l t i t u d e ra nge. The leaf has severa l fo r m s , from typ· i c a l m a p l e s h a p e to t h ree c o m p l etely separate l o b e s . The leaves t u r n pale yellow i n ,a u t u m n .
C I NQU EFO I LS ( V,-3 ft. ) occu r i n many species. Their bright yellow, butterc u p· l i ke flowers w i t h f i ve- notched petals b lo o m from early s p r i n g to late sum· mer from foot h i l l s to a bove timberline. I l l u strated i s Shru bby C i n q u efoi l , only woody species of the Rockies.
D WAR F M O U N T A I N L A UR E L (4- 1 2 i n . ) , a n evergreen s h r u b found a long st rea ms; has c l u sters of pink, pa rasol· l i k e flowers. Leaves are o p posite, green above, w h ite below, and edges often rolled u nder. Sta mens "trigger" pollen spray when d i s t u rbed.
CONI FERS OF THE LOWER MOU NTAI NS
WESTERN YELLOW PI N E, or Ponder osa (80- 1 80 ft . ) , forms open forests. Tr u n k rises straight and is sometimes branchless most of its lengt h . Needles are in b u n c h e s of 2-3; bark of older trees brea ks i nto l a rge i rregular plates. Very i mportant as a l u mber tree.
LODGEPOLE PI N E (60 - 1 00 ft.) grows i n dense sta n d s after fo rest f i res. I n d i a n s u sed s l e n d e r poles for ti pis; l u m b e r has many uses. N e e d les, a bout 2 i n . long, are i n b u nches of 2-3; cones are small; rema i n on tree many years: open after fires.
W ESTE R N W H I T E P I N E (90- 1 20 ft.) is a ta l l , slender conifer with crown of s h ort, d ro o p i n g b r a n c h e s b e a ring needles in b u n d l e s of 5 ; has elongated cones. Sometimes one branch extends 1 0 - 1 5 ft. f a rther out t h a n others. Wood very i mporta nt commercia l ly.
B R I STLECONE P I N E (30-40 ft.) holds lon gevity reco r d , 4 , 600 yea r s , for trees. B a r k is w h i t i s h w h e n young; re d - b rown later. Cones a re s m a l l : c u rved n e e d l e s i n bunches of 5 , have dots of wh ite res i n . Tru n k often twi sted ; a s h r u b at h i g h elevati ons.
GR A N D FIR ( 9 0 - 1 2 0 ft. ) , a va l u able tree of the northern Rocky Mountains, grows i n close sta n d s with bra n c hes o n l y on u p per t h i r d . T h e crown of o l d e r trees is somewhat r o u nded. Bark of young trees i s thin and wh it i s h ; of o l d e r trees, red d i s h - brown in color.
DOUGLAS FIR of t h e Rocky Mts. i s not t h e giant o f t h e W e s t C o a s t but a s m a l l e r variety, glauca, 80- 1 20 ft. h i g h . R e d d i s h - brown b a r k is d eeply f u r rowed. Cones have t h ree-ti p ped b r a cts protr u d i n g between s c a l e s . It i s t h e most i m portant l u mber tree of the U.S.
DWAR F J U N I PER , most w i d e l y d i s tri buted conifer of N . H e m i s p h ere, is a s p rawl i n g s h r u b fou n d both on bar ren slopes and i n t h i c k ti mber. The bark i s red d i s h and scaly; needles a re s h ort, w h ite a bove. The s h ort, scale· leaves a re awl-shaped.
ROCKY MOU NTAI N J U N I PER, about 1 5 ft . , i s a s m a l l b u s h y tree, red uced to a low s h r u b· o n exposed sites. F o u n d on d ry m o u nt a i n slopes and ca nyon bottoms. Tru n k often bra nched; bark, thin and stringy. Twigs a re cov ered with tiny sca le-like leaves.
B L U E SPRUCE (80 - 1 00 ft.), the state tree of C o l o . , favors ca nyon stream· sides; i s widely u sed a s a n o r n a men· ta l . N e e d l e s are s h ort, very s harp· tipped, often very wh ite. Bark i s dark, r u sty, thin a n d scaly, bec o m i n g thick a n d furrowed on older trunks.
W E ST E R N' H E M LO C K ( 1 2 0 - 1 60 ft .) h a s reddi s h , f l a ky b a r k , small cones. The flat, short, glossy need les of i rreg· u l a r l e n gt h give a lacy a p pea rance to the twigs. T r u n k t ape rs to s l ender, we a k p o i n t , typica l l y d r o o p i n g . Simi· lar to h e m lock found i n East.
W E S T E R N LARCH ( 1 00 - 1 80 ft.) is ty pica l l y a ta l l , na rrow tree, even when growi n g in o p e n . B r a n c h e s s h o rt and to u g h ; cones s m a l l , thickly scattered. Fo l i a ge pale green , beco m i n g yel low i n e a r l y f a l l a n d d ro p p i n g f r o m tree. N ot found in the southern Rockies.
W H ITE CEDAR ( 1 2 0 - 20 0 ft.), a n im· pressive, oft e n t a l l tree, is i m portant fo r its d u ra bl e , a r o m a t i c , but weak l u mber. L i m b s point u pward at acute angles; branch l ets carry flat, fern- l i ke s p rays. Typically a Pacific Coast tree. Found i n Glacier N a t . Park.
B ROAD-LEAVED TREES OF MOU NTAIN VALLEYS A N D FOOT H I LLS
COTT O N W O O D S are c o n s p i c u o u s in a u t u m n when t h e i r foliage t u r n s bril l i a n t orange-yellow. Narrowleaf Cotton wood (35-50 ft.), i l l u strated here, has n a rrow l eaves rese m b l i n g those of w i l lows. Common i n Rocky M o u nta i n a r d Yel l owstone National Parks.
BALSAM ·POPLAR (50-80 ft.) i s found co m mo n l y in m o i st botto m l a n d s in m i xed groves w i t h a l d e r , birc h and spruce. Wi dely d i stributed i n northern U . S . a n d C a n a d a . E a s i l y co nfu sed in the West with Black Cotto nwood . Buds are sticky and a romatic.
T H I N LE A F A L D ER (6-20 ft.) forms dense t h i c kets i n satu rated soi l , and i s u seful in reta rding erosion on banks and h e a dwaters of strea m s . Easily recognized by the two types of catkins, the s e e d - bea r i n g ones rese m b l i n g small
GAM BEL OAK ( 1 0 - 1 5 ft . ) , a shrub or
small tree of dry h i llsides a n d : canyon w a l l s . I t i s the only a b u n da n t dec i d u o u s o a k i n Rock i e s . B a r k i s g r a y and rough; leaves are typica l ly oak-sha ped , dark green above, pale below. A wide-
PAPER B I R C H ( 3 0 - 7 0 ft . ) I n dians m a d e canoes f r o m its c r e a m y wh ite bark. The s u rface peels off pa per-th i n . O f t e n f o u n d n e a r stre a m s a n d l a kes i n mi xed stands with a s p e n , poplar a n d t a m a r a c k . A tree of t h e northern and C a n a d i a n Rockies.
PEAC H L E A F WI L L O W ( 5 0 - 7 0 ft.) is the only "tree" w i l low native to the Rockies and is e a s i l y i d entified by its tapered l e a v e s , d rooping b r a n ches and c rooked t r u n k or t r u n k s . Twigs are s l e n d e r , p l i a b l e ; b a r k of t r u n k is fu rrowed and somet i m e s red d i s h .
QUAKING ASPEN (40-60 ft . ) i s wide spread i n t h e Rockie�. I t q u i c k l y cov ers new b u r n s and provid'es shel ter u n d e r w h i c h conifers d evelop. Leaves with f l attened petioles tremble in the s l i g h test breeze. A favorite beaver food. Related to cottonwoods (p. 79).
B L A C K H AWTH O R N ( 6 - 2 5 ft.), a s h r u b or s m a l l tree, often forms dense t h i c kets o n . m o u n ta i n s i d e s o r bottom l a n d s . Bra nc h e s w i t h stout, p u rplish red thorns. S.howy, five- petaled wh ite f l o w e r s . It h a s b l a c k f r u i t s , l i k e tiny apples, h a nging i n cl usters.
S H R U B S OF MOU NTAI N VALLEYS A N D FOOT H I LLS
N I N E B A R K ( 5 - 1 0 ft.) i s a spreading shrub with paper- l i k e bark that peel s o f f in layers. I t bea rs w h i t e flowers i n early s u m me r and produces 2 - 3 inch f l a t seed pod s . T h e toot h e d , h a i ry leaves have 3 to 5 lobes. Sometimes u sed i n c u ltivati on.
CHOKECHERRY (6-30 ft.) forms dense thickets that sprout from root s uckers and make a b r i l l i a n t show of red fol i a g e i n fa l l . Pea-sized, black or d a r k
SQUAW B U S H , or S k u n k b u s h (2-7 ft.), i s a close relative of poison ivy but is h a r m l e s s , though i l l - s m e l l i n g . Leaves with 3 l e a f l e t s and t i n y y e l l ow-g reen flowers a ppea r early i n spr i ng_ I ndians make bas kets from slender shoots and a drink from sticky red berries.
B U FFALO B E R R Y (2-8 f t . ) p refers m o i s t , s h a d e d s l o p e s . B r a n c h e s a re brown a n d scaly; l eaves are dark green above and covered on u nder side with sta r - l i ke s c a l e s _ A rel ative, R u s s i a n - o l i v e , i s a favorite d ryland shade tree.
r e d c h e r r i e s a re prof u se a n d a re a sta p l e food of bears_ Also u sed to m a k e j e l l y by m o u n t a i n h o u sewives.
SQUAW or WAX C URRANT ( 1 -4 ft.), a s h r u b of d ry slopes and r i dges, has a l ternate pal mate leaves, pink flowers, red fruit. Gooseberries (usually thorny) and other cu rrants a re also abu ndant.
M O U NTAI N LOVER ( V>-4 ft.), a low evergreen s hru b of moist open wood s. T h e leaves a re leathery a n d sl ightly toot h e d , with very s h o rt stems; grow opposite on sprawling branches.
R ED-OS I ER DOGWOOD (4-8 ft.) bears f l a t - t o p p e d c l u sters of s m a l l w h ite blossoms w h i c h mature into whitish fruits. Often forms t h i c kets; d a r k red branches conspicuous in wi nter. Vari· eties with yellow bark a re c u lti vated .
B I TT ER BR U S H , o r Antelope B rush ( 2 - 8 ft . ) , i s a browse plant of deer and antelope. A tou g h , widely branched shrub with pale yel low blossoms. Leaves are th ree-pronged, green a bove a n d white u n d erneat h .
a n d ova l , and may be sl ightly h a i ry.
SERVI CEBERRY ( 2 - 6 f t . ) forms dense t h i c kets. Its flowers, white with 5 long, na rrow peta l s , bloom in late spring. Its pu rplish-black berries were a n i m porta nt food of Blac kfoot I ndians.
SAGEBR U S H , i n many varieties, grows from 1 - 1 2 ft. in southern and central Rockies. Foliage s i lvery gray; three· pronged l eaves are very a ro matic. These common shrubs prefer deep, a l ka l i -free soi l s .
T H I M B L E B ERRY ( 3 - 8 ft.) h a s a flat· ten � d r a s p berry- l i k e f r u i t eaten by birds and other w i l d l ife. Its del icate w h i te flowers measure two i n ches across. T h i s c o m m o n s h r u b i s not thorny.
S N O W B ERRY ( 2 - 5 ft.), n a m ed for its large w h i t e b e r r i e s , is eaten by deer and b i r d s . The flowers a r e p i n k and h a i ry i n s i d e . Leaves are variable, thin
R E D B E R R I E D ELDER ( 1 -3 ft.) A s p r a w l i n g s h r u b with weak, pithy stems and opposite, compound leaves. It b e a r s l a rge c l u sters of s m a l l , wh ite flowers. Has scarlet berries in fa l l .
O R EGON HOLLYGRAPE ( 'h - 1 ft.) has hol l y· l i ke leaves that turn deep red i n fal l . T h e f l o w e r s are y e l l o w , i n dense cl u sters. B e r r i e s a re b l u e and make
W H O RTLEB E R R I ES are s h r u b s with s m a l l p i n k o r w h i t e nodd i n g fl owers. All h ave toot h ed leaves. The dwarf f o r m ( B room H u c kl e berry) h a s red berries; the berries of a t a l l e r s pecies ( 1 -3 ft.) a re black.
B E A R B E R R Y ( 'h - 1 ft.) i s a prostrate evergreen s h r u b w h i c h often ca rpets t h e forest and p ioneers on rocky slopes a n d new b u r n s . Leaves are browsed by deer; red berries are a preferred food of grouse.
fine jelly. Prefers roc ky g u l c h e s .
Lic h ens growing on a rock
Herbert S. Zim
N O N - FLOWE R I N G PLA NTS range from m i n ute bacteria to g reat con ifers . U s u a l l y we thi n k of the term a s a pplying to fern s a n d thei r k i n - mosses, l iverworts , l i chen s , fungi and a lgae. All occ u r in the Rockies, and while most a re neither l a rge n o r co n s p i c u o u s , they a re very co m m o n . About 25 ferns a n d a d ozen fern a l l ies can eas i l y be fou n d . With d i l igence the i n terested a m ate u r can i dentify scores of m u shroo m s , l i chen s a n d mosses. I ll u strated a re j ust a few of the most commonly seen ferns, mosses a n d l i chens of the Rockies. BR ITTLE FER N ('h - 1 ft . ) t a k e s its n a m e from its t h i n , fragi l e stem. G rows from creeping b l a c k rootstock in veri moist, shady a reas. Very com· mon i n Rocky Mou nta i n N ational Park; less so i n Glacier.
W ESTER N BR A C K E N ( 1 - 5 ft.) i s a stout, coarse fern with tough leathery fronds, often 6 ft. long. Some western I n d i a n s used young s h oots a s food. G rows i n sandy o r acid s o i l s i n a l l temperate regions.
spore-bearing shoot
sterile sh
del
Parsley Fern (6- 1 2 i n . ) , h a s two k i n d s o f fron d s - leafy a n d s p o re- b e a r i n g . G rows on rocks a n d c l i H s , u s u a l l y in t i g h t c l u mps. Found from the Rockies to the Pacific.
S P I K E M OSS, or Little C l u b Moss, is a sl ender b r a n c h i n g moss- l i k e plant re· lated to ferns. Spores borne in axils of s m a l l l eaves. Fo u n d on d ry ba rren ground near roc ks.
L I C H E N S are pri mitive p l a n t s com· posed of a food -producing a lga and a s u pporting f u n g u s . They pioneer i n s o i l formati o n . Some a r e deer food ; some sou rces of tannin and dyes.
H A I RYCAP M OSS, a wi ry-stemmed moss of d ry, s u n n y soil or rocks, grows 3 - 5 i n . high . The four-a ngled capsule sheds spores when ripe. Leaf margins fold back to the center.
d etai l o l eaf
H a i rycap Mo s s
i n . ) a l p i n e rodent restricted to north ern Rockies. Gray with black-and-wh ite face. C o m p a r e with more common Ye llow-be l l ied Marmot, p . 9 1 .
A N I M A L LI F E O F THE ROC K I ES A centu ry ago wea l thy E u ropea n s portsmen ca me to the Rockies to h u n t the fa med grizzly a n c;! othe r bea rs, deer, elk, moose, mo u n ta i n l i ons and mounta i n sheep. S u ch big ga me sti l l roa m the pa r ks a n d m o u nta i n s . U n der a wise a n d strict conse rvati on pol icy thei r n u m bers a re i nc reas i ng, a n d big ga me hunting is sti l l i m porta nt. However, the a verage v i s itor i s more l i kely to get h i s thri l l from the b i rd s a n d s m a l ler m a m m a l s tha n from a n occasional g l i m pse of a l a rge bea st. Here a re the most common spe c ies of the Rockies. Remember, a l l w i l d l i fe i s protected in N a t i o n a l Pa rks a n d i n National M o n u ments. Try h u nting with a ca mera . If you prefer a gun or fi shi n g rod , c heck state a n d loca l l aws and reg u l at i o n s .
For more information about mam mals, read: B u rt & Grosse n h e i d e r , A F I E L D G U I D E TO T H E M A M M A LS, H o u g h ton M ifflin, Boston, 1952 Palmer, R a l p h S . , THE MAMMAL G U I DE, Doubleday, N . Y., 1 9 54 Rodeck, H. G . , G U I D E TO T H E M A M M A L S O F C O L O R A D O , U n i v . of Colorado Museu m , Boulder, Colo., 1 95 2 Z i m and Hoffmeister, M A M MALS, G o l d e n P r e s s , N . Y. , 1 9 5 5
87
MAM MALS OF ALPI N E H EIG HTS
M O U NTAI N S H E E P, or B i g h orns (45 'h ft.), a re e l u si v e . Grayi s h - b rown with creamy-wh ite rump and massive, b a c k w a r d - c u r v i n g h o r n s , they p refer grassy m o u n t a i n areas. Females give b i rt h to one l a m b born i n spring.
M O U NTA I N G OAT ( 5 'h ft . ) looks like a n a l l - wh ite goat, b u t i s more c l osely related t o a n t e l o p e . Lives a m o n g a l p i n e cliffs. C o l o r b l e n d s w e l l with sn ow-covered rocks. Male and fema l e look a l i k e .
PI KA, or Cony (8 in.), lives i n ti mber l i n e rock slides. Pikas -a re gray- brown, rabbit - l i k e , with s m a l l , rou n d ears and n o a p p a rent ta i l s. They gather, dry, a nd store grass for winter food.
NORTH E R N POCKET GOPHER ( 1 0 in.), a grayi s h - brown rodent of mt. mead ows, lives u n d e rgro u n d and b u rrows for fleshy roots. Piles of d i rt mark the t u n n e l entrances. Does not h i bernate.
MAM MALS OF FORESTS AND H I G H SLOPES
B LACK B EA R (300 l b . ) is b l a c k or c i n n a m o n with a brown face. Lacks s h o u l d e r h u m p of grizzly. Most com· man and widely d i st r i b u ted bear, it is seen n e a r c a m p s a n d roads. Eats a l · m o s t everyt h i n g .
G RIZZLY B EAR, weighing up to 1 ,000 lb. and al most 7 ft. long, i s the l a rgest m o u nt a i n c a r n i vo r e . Its y e l l o w i s h , w h i te-ti pped h a i r s give i t a grizzled a p pearance. Feeds o n game, fruits, a n d berri"es.
M A R T E N ( 2 5 i n . ) , a f o r e s t c a r n i vore, has l o n g , s l e n d e r body, s h o rt legs, b ro w n , b u s h y t a i l and soft, dense, f u r . Wt. 2-4 lb. Does not h i bernate. Feeds on rodents, birds a n d eggs.
M I N K (25 i n . ) h u nts f i s h , frogs, cray. f i s h , b i r d s , a n d s m a l l m a m m a l s . An active carn ivore s i m i l a r to the weasel ; a lways lives n e a r water. Note i t s wh ite c h i n patc h . 4 - 1 0 young.
L O N G-TA I L E D WEASEL ( 1 5 - 2 0 i n . , 3 - 8 oz.), i s a widespread h u nter of rodents and s m a l l birds; cha nges from to white in winter and is then
RIVER OTTE R (4-5 ft. ) , h u nted for its b e a u t i f u l t h i c k f u r , is a n excellent web-footed swi mmer. Eats fish, frogs, s m a l l m a m m a l s . Rich brown above, si lvery below. Ma kes its den i n bur rows or t hic kets.
and stea l t h y , the bobcat h u nts by day a s well a s at night. I t preys o n s m a l l rodents and birds, rarely on l a rger a n i ma l s . T h e bobcat prefers rocky thickets .and dens in caves or hol low trees. Its color ranges from brown to gray, spotted with black.
R E D FOX ( 3 5 - 4 0 i n . ) has three color p h a s e s - black, r e d , and c r o s s . U s u a l l y red d i sh-yel low with black " stock ings" and wh ite-tipped bushy ta i l . Lives i n h o l l ow logs and b u rrows; eats rodents, occa sionally f r u i t .
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GOLDEN MANTLED G R O U N D SQU I R R E L ( 1 0 i n . ) is s i m i l a r to Ea stern C h i p m u n k but lacks head stripes. Has coppery head, white body stri pes bor d e red with b l a c k . A c o m m o n camp
visitor i n t h e Rockies.
R I C HA R D S O N ' S G R O U N D S Q U I RREL ( 1 1 i n . ) i s s m o ky-gray with a l ight· bordered ta i l . Often c a l l e d Pic ket·Pin from habit of sitting u p straight. May -�V.� h i bernate from 8 to 9 m o n t h s in the n o rth or i n d ry areas.
Y ELLOW- BELLIED MARMOT (23 in.) i s a yellowi s h , h eavy-bod ied rodent that l i ves in b u r rows or under rocks. Feeds on p l a nts o n rocky h i l l s i d e s i n the southern Rockies.
IP.�:::.:_...�;;.,�-.- M OUNTAI N L I O N , or P u m a (80-200
l b . , 6-8 ft.), i s a la rge, long·tailed, t aw ny cat t h a t preys o n d e e r and other l a rge m a m m a l s . Ra nges widely b u t i s seldom seen. Two s potted young are born each yea r.
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il l s o called P a c k o r Trade Rat, stea l s s m a l l objects; may l e a v e o t h e r s i n ex c h a nge. B u i l d s l a rge sti c k nests in rocky crevi c e s , m i n e t u n n e l s and under c a b i n s .
P I N E SQU I R R EL, or C h i cka ree ( l 3 in.), u s u a l ly n e sts h i g h i n spruce or fir. Ye l l o w i s h - red i n s u m mer; grayer i n wi nter. F e e d s o n s e e d s , n u t s a n d fungi. I t i s noisy and a n ag ile cli mber.
B EAVER (3 ft.) has fur so v a l u able that it led to e x ploration of this region. B u i l d s h o u ses and d a m s of mud and sticks. Swi m s with webbed hind feet
MULE DEER (6 ft . , 1 50-300 l b . ) i n open forests. I t i s reddish brown i n s u m mer, grayer i n wi nter. Has a m u l e - l i k e tail and l a rge ears. H u nted by coyote , bea r , puma and man. Female s m a l ler; lacks a ntlers.
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D E ER M O U S E (7 i n . ) is a big-eared, wh ite-bel l i ed rodent found nearly every· w h ere. Noct u r n a l in habit, it feeds on anything edible; a lso stores seeds and fruits for winter. I t i s often seen around camps.
S N O W S H O E H AR E ( 1 8 i n . , 2-4 lb.) is a short-eared , common mounta i n rab· bit. La rge " s nowshoe" h i n d feet pe . m i t it to r u n over soft s n o w . Cotton· ta i l s are also plentiful i n the Rockies.
POR C U P I N E ( 2 5 - 3 0 i n . , 1 0 -28 lb.) i s a s h o rt - l egged , c l u msy rodent cov· ered with ba rbed q u i l l s which are loose but cannot be t h rown. It is a slow, cau· tious c l i m ber; feeds on bark and espec i a l l y of p o p l a r .
grazes o n m a n y p l a nt s . S p e n d s win· ters i n va l l eys, s u m mer i n mountains. Antlers a r e shed i n M a r c h . Female i s s m a l l e r ; d o e s n o t have a ntlers. One calf i s born i n the spring.
M A M M ALS OF VALLEYS A N D FOOTH I LLS
STRIPED SKU N K (24 i n . , 4-8 l b . ) lives in b u rrows, rocky crevi c e s , o r u nder logs and b u i l d i ngs. Eats i n sects, mice, f r u i t and c a r r i o n . Spotted S k u n k of southern Rockies i s smaller.
B A D G E R ( 2 5 in., 1 0 - 2 0 l b . ) i s heavy b o d i e d a n d s h o rt - l egge d . A powerful d i gger, it h u n ts rodents i n t h e i r b u r rows; a l s o eats b i rds, eggs, reptiles and i n sects. May m o u n d d i rt at b u r row entrances. W H I T E-TA I L E D JACK RABBIT (24 in.) ranges from prairies to ti mberline. Prefers open country; relies on speed for p rotect i o n . Leaps 1 5 -20 ft. Is brown ish i n s u m mer, whitish in winter.
1 3 -LI N E D G R O U N D S Q U I R R E L ( 1 0 i n . ) e a t s seed s , p l a n t s , i n sects, grubs a n d w o r m s . S h y and q u i c k , it h i ber· nates i n wi nter. H a s beaded, brown ish stripes on sides a n d back.
W H ITE-TA I L E D PRAI R I E DOG ( 1 3 i n . ) i s a r o d e n t of m o u n t a i n g r a s s l a nds; l i v e s i n "t ow n s " o r col o n i e s . Stands g u a rd on m o u n d s , utte r i n g a high pitched bark when a l a r m e d .
T U FT-EA R E D S Q U I R R E L ( 2 0 i n . ) i s a p i n e forest dweller. Its ears a re tufted except in late s u m me r . I t v a r i es i n c o l o r ; i s oft e n g r a y a bove a n d white below but may be a l l black.
LEAST C H I P M U N K (7 i n . ) is the smal l est c h i p m u n k i n Roc kies. When ala rmed it r u n s with t a i l u p ri g h t . Lives in b u r rows u n d e r st u m p s or roc k s ; stores seeds, nuts, and fruits for winter.
COYOTE ( 3 v, ft. ) is a s m a l l e r relative of the wolf; h o l d s its tail down when r u n n i n g . I t eats rodents and other small a n i m a l s , grasshoppers and fruit. I t s ofte n - heard y a p p ing i s d i sti nctive.
PRONGHORN ( 5 ft . , 90- 1 3 0 l b.), o u r fa stest m a m m a l , i s a u n i q u e American species and i s not a n a ntelope. Ta n , with wh ite u nder a n d on r u m p . I t eats s h r u bs and g ras s on open ra nges; s heds horn covers yea rly.
MOOSE (700 - 1 300 l b .), the la rgest of the deer f a m i l y , l i ve s in swa m py val l eys and a l o n g strea m s . Eats aq uatic p l a nt s , s h r u b s and bark. M a l e s have l a rge, broa d , fl attened antlers.
o.lli� IISO•N, or B uffa lo ( 1 2 ft. ) , once roamed
the Plains in m i l l ions. S l a u ghtered for meat and h i d e s , o n l y r i g i d con serva tion p reserved the species. S h o u lder height is 6 ft.; weight u p to 1 ton .
TRUM PETER SWAN (65 in.) breeds on a few Rocky Mountain lakes. It was o n c e n e a r exti nct i o n , but now has a population of about 1 , 500 birds.
WHITE PELICAN (55-70 i n . ) has black primaries a n d a y e llow t h roat pouch. Soars gracef u l l y ; does not d i v e for food . N ests on i n l a n d l a kes.
B I R DS OF T H E R OC K I ES With a range o f elevation exceeding 1 0 , 000 feet , there i s a correspo n d i n g va riation i n b i rd pop u l at i o n . Along the f ront ranges of the Rockies, ea stern species a re common. Here is part of the central flyway a l ong w h i c h many water fowl s pecies mi grate north from Mexico a n d Central Amer i c a . Movi ng up the foot h i l l s t h ro u g h the forests a nd a l p i ne mea dows bri ngs ma rked c h a nges i n b i rd l i fe. The sea sons prod u ce more c h a nges. I n w i n ter, a l p i ne a nd northern species move southwa rd and down the mou n ta i n s . The local envi ronment a l so exerts a n i nf l uence. Some birds prefer l akes and streams; others, open wood s; a nd a few species prefer the co l d of mounta i n heights. F o r more about birds o f t h e Rockies, read :
N iedrach and Rockwe l l , B I R DS OF DENVER A N D MOUNTA I N P A R K S , C o l o . M u s . Nat. H i st . , Denver, Colo. , 1 939 Packard , F. M., B I R DS OF ROCKY MT. NAT. PAR K , Rocky Mt. Nature Assn . , Estes Park, Col o . , 1 950 Peterson, R . T., F I E L D G U I DE TO WEST E R N B I RDS, Houghton, Boston, 1 96 1 Pettingi l l , 0 . S . , A G U I DE T O B I R D F I N D I NG WEST OF T H E M I SSISSI P P I , Oxford Univ. Press, N . Y. , 1 953 Robbins, B r u u n , Zim and Si nger, B I R DS OF NORTH A M E R I CA, Golden Press, New York, 1 966. Z i m and Gabrielson, B I R DS, Golden Press, New York, 1 956
97
BI RDS OF ALPI N E H EIG HTS
winter plumage
W H ITE-TAI L E D PTA R M I G A N ( 1 2 - 1 3 i n . ) i s a s m a l l grouse t h a t remains a bove t i m be r l i n e except i n wi nter. S u m me r p l u mage brown i s h ; wh ite in wi nter. B u i l d s nest on the ground be· side boulders.
HORNED LA R K (7-8 in.) has a con· s p i c u o u s yellow- a n d - b l a ck face pat· t e r n . In f l i g h t , l i ght brea st contrasts with its black t a i l . " Horns" are raised o n l y d u r ing c o u rts h i p . Lays 3-4 eggs in a ground nest.
B R OWN-CAPPED ROSY FI N C H (6 i n . ) lives a bove t i m b e r l i n e i n southern Rockies; wi nters in val leys. Eats insects and seed s. Gray-crowned Rosy Finch is common i n the northern Rockies.
WATER PIPIT ( 6 - 7 i n . ) nests a bove ti m b e r l i n e ; h u nts for i n sects a round r.iill�.... m e l t i n g s n o w ba n k s . B o b s ta i l con· stantly. In mating season, male si.ngs w h i l e soa ring.
98
B I RDS OF FORESTS AND H I G H SLOPES
W I L LIAMSON'S SAPSUCKER (91h i n . ) h u nts c o m m o n l y i n p i n e woods for tree i n sects. The stri ped female differs so s h a r p l y from the m a l e , i t was for merly considered a sepa rate species. N ests i n holes of trees.
B L U E G R O U S E ( 1 8 - 2 1 i n . ) i s dark b l u i s h - gray a bove, s l a te-gray below. Female i s smaller and more brown ish. Courting male utters hol low " hooting" so u n d . One race lacks white across end of ta i l . W E S T E R N FLYCATC H E R ( 8 - 9 i n . ) i s o l i ve-brown w i t h l i g h t-yel low u nder· p a r t s , w h i te wing bars and eye ring. Catches i n sects on the wing in forests a n d c l e a r i n g s . B u i l d s moss n est in rocks or trees.
GRAY JAY ( 1 1 - 1 3 in.) has white crown and da rk-gray col l a r . Lives i n high for· ests and is seldom seen f l y i n g in the open. Gray J a ys, c o m m o n l y seen around ca m p s , a re c a l l e d " Ca m p Robbers" or "W h i s key-J a c k s . "
99
T O W N S E N D ' S SOLITAI R E (9 i n . ) , a s o l i t a ry t h r u s h w i t h a warbl ing song, i s slate-gray with white eye ring, l i ght wing bars and w h ite outer tail feath e rs. B reeds th roughout the Rockies.
C L A R K ' S N UTCRAC K E R ( 1 2 - 1 3 i n . ) i s common i n h ig h m e a d o w s i n s u m · mer. I t h a s a g r a y body with white patc h e s on w i n g and t a i l , a n d a loud, hars h ca l l . I t will enter camps for food.
M O U N TA I N C H I C K A D E E ( 5 112 in.) h u nts i nsects i n bark of trees. I t has a b l a c k c a p and th roat and white eye s t r i p e . T h e B l a c k Capped C h i c kadee lacks w h i te over the eye.
( 7 i n . ) is a b rown· backed b i rd with red d i s h t a i l , slender b i l l and s potted breast. Feeds o n in· sects. H a s . a c l e a r , f l ute- l i ke song. Note slow, freq uent raising of the ta i l .
K I L L D E E R (9 - 1 1 i n . ) i s a n i n land plover of mountain meadows and lake shores. Common i n the West, espe· c i a l l y i n s u m mer. Note white-bordered , red d is h ta i l and two black breast bands.
1 00
R U BY-C R O W N E D K I N G LET (4 i n . ) i s a tiny, olive-gray b i rd with i nconspicu o u s red crown, pale wing bars and w h ite eye - r i n g . Feeds on i n sects. B u i l d s h a n g i n g nest of b a r k or moss.
A U D U B O N ' S WA R B L E R ( 5 i n . ) i s a b i rd of the p i n e a n d f i r forests. Be haves m u c h l i k e flycatchers, catching in sects on the wing. B u i l d s feather l i n e d , b u l ky nest of bark a n d needles.
CASS I N ' S FINCH (6 i n . ) often nests in pine trees. Feeds o n i n sects and seed s. N ote male's red crown, b reast and r u m p . Ta i l i s deeply notc h e d . Female i s o l i ve-gray, a n d strea ked.
PI N E G R O S B E A K ( 9 i n . ) i s l a rgest Rocky Mt. f i n c h . M a l e i s rosy- red with black wings and ta i l . Fema le i s brown i s h-gray, has two white wing bars. These seed-eaters nest in conifers.
SPOTTED S A N D P I P E R (7-8 in.) tee te rs a s it w a l k s a l o n g l a k e s h o re s . It is the o n l y spotted s a n d p i p e r of the reg i o n . N ote the wh ite eye l i n e and w h ite shoulder m a r k .
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G REEN-TAI LED TOW H E E (7 i n . ) feeds R E D C R O S S B I L L (6 i n . ) bobs as it and nests c l o s e to t h e g r o u n d . N ote f l i e s , uttering repeated " beeps." the s m a l l b i l l , l o n g w i ngs and t a i l , Feeds on seeds from evergreen cones. The W h i te-winged Cros s b i l l of the •· g r e e n b a c k and r u sty r e d c r o w n . Lays 4 eggs, w h ite with b rown speckles. N . R o c k i e s h a s two wh i te w i n g bars.
G RAY- H E A D E D J U NC O (6 i n . ) with r u s t y b a c k , gray s i d e s , p a l e b i l l and w h ite outer tail feathers; feeds and nests on gro u n d . Both t h e White wi nged and Oregon J u nco also occ u r i n t h e Rockies.
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LINCOLN'S SPA R ROW (5V, i n . ) prefers dense t h i ckets. N ote the breast, finely strea ked with b l a c k , c rossed by brow n i s h - y e l l o w b a n d . Song Spa rrow h a s h e a v i e r strea k s w h i c h meet in central d a r k spot.
W H ITE-C ROW N E D SPARROW (6V, in.) prefers b r u s h y meadows. M ottled brown b a c k , pearly-gray breast and conspicu o u s wh ite-stri ped black head. Song con s i sts of severa l w h i stles fol lowed by a tri l l .
B I RDS OF VALLEYS A N D FOOT H I LLS
PINE SISKIN (5 in.) i n coniferous forests but is g e n e r a l l y seen flying r ove head i n flocks. Note h eavy, b rown strea ks, forked t a i l , yellow w i n g bars, and u n i q u e , b u z z i n g , a sce n d i n g cry.
lives near water a n d dives f o r s ma l l fi s h . T u n n e l s i n to b a n k s t o b u i l d its nest. Has a . big head with a ragged crest, and a l ou d , ratt l i ng ca l l . Fema l e h a s chestnut breast. B LACK- B I L L E D M A G P I � ( 1 9 i n . ) has a long, tapering, i r i d escent tail, wh ite u n d e r p a rt s a n d w h i t e V o n its b l ack b a c k. Often gathers i n flocks on trees o r s h r u b s near the water.
B R O A D-TAI L E D H U M M I N G B I R D (4 in.) c l o s e l y re s e m bles the E . R u by t h roated. B u i l d s m i n ute nest of moss, l ic h e n s , p l a n t down and c o b webs. Wings make a
R E D-SHAFTED FLI C K E R ( 1 3 i n . ) is a w h i te- r u m pe d , brown · b a c ked wood· peeker, commonly seen on the ground probing for ants. Note u n d u l ating flight. Fe m a l e s lack red " m u stache" m a r k s of m a l e .
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V I O L ET-G R E E N SWALLOW ( 5 '12 i n . ) is m eta l l i c v i o l e t a n d green a bove with two white p a t c h e s a t base of tai l . F l i e s h i g h over c l i ffs. T r e e Swa l low i s I b l u e a bove; white below.
W H ITE-TH ROATED S W I FT (7 i n . ) is o n l y swift w i t h w h i t e t h roat and breast. I t feeds on the wing, and flies ra p i d l y . Found i n footh i l l s near pre· c i p i t o u s rock w a l l s . S T E L L E R ' S J A Y ( 1 3 i n . ) has a ta l l , b l a c k c r e s t , deep- b l u e wings a n d ta i l . E a t s s e e d s , i n s ru:ts a n d f r u i t , a n d i s co n s p i c u o u s a t forest cam psites. Has a v a r i ety of loud c a l l s . ·
LEWIS W O O D P E C K E R ( 1 1 i n . ) is the only woo d pecker with a rose-colored belly. Feeds l i ke a flycatcher; flies l i ke a crow. Food includes i nsects, berries, fruit and acorns.
PYG MY N U T H ATCH (4 i n . ) i s often seen cree p i n g head f i rst down pine trunks, feed i n g o n i n sect s . N ote its s h o rt tail. U s u a l l y travels i n f l ocks, with a jerky bob-tailed f l i g h t .
D I P P E R ( 7 - 8 i n . ) , a sh ort, dark gray bird, bobs a s i t wa lks. Builds a b u l ky nest of moss on rocks a l o n g swift stre a m s near rapids a n d falls. Dives i nto water and w a l k s on t h e botto m h u nt i n g for i n sect l a rvae. CANON W R E N ( 5 112 i n . ) i s reddish brown with conspicuous white throat. I n h a bits c a n y o n s and c l i f f s . B u i ld s b u l ky nest i n rocky c r e v i c e s . Song i s clear, rapidly descending whistles.
R O C K W R E N (5-6 i n . ) i s a gray-brown wren of rocky s l o pe s w i t h f i nely streaked breast and conspicuous w h i te-ti pped tail. Forages for i n sects. Lays 7-8 eggs i n c revice nest.
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B L U E B I R D S are common. T h e Moun ta i n B l u e b i rd (7 i n . ) i s bright blue with a white belly; female i s brownish. Western B l u e b i rd ( 6 '12 i n . ) has rusty red back a n d brea st; female is paler.
M A C G I L LI V R A Y ' S W A R B L E R (5 i n . ) , recognized b y its g r a y h o o d and wh ite eye - r i n g , prefers m ois t h i l l si d e t h ick ets; i s often found near water. It lays 3-5 eggs i n a nest of dried grass.
B R EW E R ' S B LAC K B I R D (9 i n . ) com m o n l y w a l k s with its w i n g s s l i ghtly d rooped. Feeds a l most enti rely on gro u n d . Nests i n colonies i n gra ssy meadows. Its note is a rough " c h eck . " I n t h e f i e l d , note t h e p u rple i r ides cence on the head and the white eye. Also common on the High P l a i n s and ea stwa rd .
W E S T E R N TANAGER (7 i n . ) is bril· liant yellow with black wings and a red face. F e m a l e is o l i ve-green a bove. yellow below. B u i l d s a twig-and-grass nest i n p i ne, spruce or fir, fairly close to the ground.
B LACK- H EA D E D G R O S B EAK (7 i n . ) n e sts i n open, decid u o u s wood lands; feeds o n i n sects and seeds. N ote b l a c k h e a d , h eavy bea k , r u sty b reast
and white wing patc hes. EVENING G ROSBEAK (8 in.) i s a large, d u l l -yellow fi n c h with a w h i t i s h , con i · c a l b i l l a n d w h ite w i n g patc hes. Easy to recog n i z e . Eats a va r i ety of seeds and fruits. Lays 3 to 4 eggs i n a nest of roots a n d sticks.
LAZULI B U NTING ( 5 V, in.) i s a bright· blue finch w i t h a c i n n a m o n b reast band a n d w h i t e w i n g b a r s . Female is dull brown . Prefers d ry brushy slopes and h i l lsides. Nests i n b u sh es. R U F O U S- S I D E D T O W H E E (8 i n . ) i s a s h y b i r d t h a t nests a n d feeds in t h i c kets or a m ong d e a d leaves. Note the b l a c k h e a d , red d i s h s i d e s , wh ite w i n g m a r k i n g s a n d w h i t e - t i p p e d tail feat h e r s . T h e western form of t h i s c o m m o n b i rd ( i l l u strated) h a s m a n y w h ite s p o t s on wings a n d back. Fe m a l e s m a l l e r and browner. A summer resident i n most of the Rockies.
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ROCKY M O U NTAI N F I S H ES F a med for tro u t i n its swift, cold strea m s , the Rockies also h ave scores of other f i shes , some preferri ng the la rger la kes a n d rivers . Still othe r s pecies, i n cl u d i ng M i s· s i s s i p p i B a s i n f o r m s , occ u r i n foothill r i ve r s a n d ponds. Ty pica l fi shes of the Rockies a re illu strated here. See also F I S H E S , Z i m a n d Shoe m a ke r , G olden P ress , N . Y. , 1956. Remember that a state license is req u i red even for fish i ng i n National Parks, M o n u ments a nd Fo rests . T R O UT a r e t h e region ' s n u m b e r one fresh-water g a m e f i s h . Best kn own is t h e R a i n bow or Stee l h e a d , with a c l e a r , reddish band a l o n g its sides. R a i nbows feed on i n sects, sma l l water a n i m a l s , a n d f i s h e s . Av. wt. 2 - 5 l b . R ecord 3 7 l b . The C u tth roat i s si lvery gray, deeply spotted with b l a c k . Note the red strea k s on lower jaw. Wt. 1 -3
lb . ; record 41 l b . T h e Eastern B rook Tro u t has been i n t rod u c e d . It is dark o l i ve, w i t h " m a r b l e d " b l a c k and red spots a long its sides. Eu ropean B rown Trout, also i n t roduced a n d fairly com· m e n , is d a r k a bove, s i l very below, with n u m e r o u s l a rge black spots. A• ra p i d grower; we i g h s 1 - 5 l b . ; record 3 9 pou n d s .
M O N T A N A G RA Y L I N G is s i m i l a r to trout, b u t related to wh itefi s h . It is a n
la rge dorsal f i n . Prefers cold stream s . T h i s p o p u l a r g a m e fish g r o w s to 1 5 i n . or more.
S Q U A W F I S H , t h e l a rgest native min now, i s said to reach a weight exceed ing 30 l b s . , t h o u g h 2 - 5 l b s . i s aver-
age. A n exce l l e n t sport fish o n l i ght t a c k l e w i t h b a i t o r l u re s b u t a r e too bony to be good eating.
R O C K Y M O U NTAI N W H I TE F I S H is
s i l very b e l o w ; head r o u n d e d , over· h a n g i n g s n o u t ; f i n s with b l a c k tips. Weight 1 - 3 p o u n d s .
NORTHERN SUCKER has a long snout and fine scales. Males have wide, red d i s h stre a k s i n s p a w n i n g season.
S u c k e r s are tasty f i s h , c a u g h t i n clear strea m s a n d c o m m erc i a l l y i n l a kes. Lengt h , 1 5 - 1 8 in.
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ROCKY M O U NTA I N R E PT I L ES T h e ge n e r a l e n v i ron ment of the R o c k i e s d oes not meet the req u i re ments of repti les too wel l . These i nteresti ng vertebrates occ u r , b u t not i n great n u m be r or i n wide va r iety . Those concerned a bout s n a kes w i l l be g l a d to know
W E ST E R N S K I N KS a re s h y , swift, f i n e - s c a l e d l i z a r d s w i t h a t a i l l o n ger than their body. Two species, one with l i g h t str i p e s ; the other with dark. Lengt h , 8 - 9 i n .
S H O R T- H O R N E D LIZA R D ( 3 - 5 in.) is a f l atten e d , s h ort-ta i l e d l i z a rd w i t h a s p i n y h e a d crest. Prefers d ry, rough terra i n . Easily caught, b u t not a good pet. Wrongly called " H orned-toad . "
F E N C E L I ZA R D S w i t h coarse, spiny scales a r e d u l l , gray - b rown with dark a n d l ight blotc h e s . Several s pecies oc c u r i n the R o c k i e s , l i v i n g in d ry, wooded a reas or in rocky areas. Length, 5-7 in.
P A I N T E D T U RTLE, c o m m o n i n the East, a l so occurs i n northern Rockies. T h i s western s u b s p e c i e s has less color on t h e sides a n d a l a rge, regu lar, d u s k y patch o n t h e lower s h e l l . 7'h10 i n .
the reg i o n s u p po rts j u st o ne average- si zed s pecies of rattler-the o n l y poisono u s rept i l e i n o u r a rea . I n a l l , the reg i o n has a bo u t 1 4 s pecies of s n a ke s , seven of l i z a rds a n d fou r k i n d s of tu rtles. For f u rther i nfo rmation read A M P H I B I A N S A N D R EPTI LES OF WEST E R N N O RTH A M E R ICA,
Ste b b i n s, M c G raw- H i l l, N . Y . , 1 9 54.
R A C E R T h e w e s t e r n f o r m s of the common racer are thin, active snakes that feed on s m a l l a n i ma l s . They are o l i ve , b l u i s h or brown i s h a bove, and yellowish below.
W ESTER N GARTER SNAKE occ u rs in several forms. The G ray Ga rter Snake ( i l l u strated) prefers d ry places. Green· i s h gray to brown with a b r o k e n yel low stripe and black blotches on sides.
G O P H E R SNAKE, a s m a l l e r western form of the B u l l S n a k e , has dark b l otches on the back joi n i ng those on t h e sides. They feed mainly on rats a n d other rod ents, and h i s s violently when molested.
WESTERN RATILESNAKE, a med i u m sized, t h i c k - bodied species (3-4 ft.), i s gray, gree n i s h or brown with l a rge i r reg u l a r black spots. It has a triangu lar head. Feeds m a i n l y o n rodents. Poisonous.
ROCKY M O U NTAI N A M P H I B I A N S WESTERN TOAD ( 3 - 5 i n . ) i s warty; gray, brown o r green i s h . B e l l y and c he s t s p e c k l e d w i t h b l a c k . Active at n i g h t at a l l b u t h i g h est e l evations. Males have chi rping, b i rd - l i ke call.
SPADEFOOT TOADS, 1 112-2 y, in., (th ree s p e c i e s ) are more c o m m o n in l ower altitude grasslands and open a reas. N ote r o u n d e d , s h a rp-edged black bump or "spade" o n feet, a n d ver tical p u p i l of eye.
LEOPARD FROG (3-4 i n . ) , the widest ranging North American a m p h i bi a n , i s i n a l l w a t e r s o f t h e area, i n both m o u nta i n s a n d l o w l a n d s . Greenish, bro w n i s h or gray with oval or round black spots·. S W A M P C H O R U S F R O G is a s maller ( l 'h in.) frog of moist gra sslands and strea mside b r u s h . Gray-green to olive brown, with five i rregu l a r dark stripes. Its ca l l i s a s h ort c h i r p . TI G E R SALA M A N D E R S a r e b l a c kish with va r i a b l e l i g h t colored m a r k i ngs. They live i n b u r rows i n moist ground or under logs and stones and in water d u ring the breed i n g season . Active at n ight.
R O C KY M O U N TA I N I N S ECTS With the great va riation in a ltitude, tem peratu re , mois tu re , a n d c h a r a cter of the l a n d , it is n o w o n der that the R o c k i es a re r i ch i n i n sect s . So u thern s pecies enter this a rea from Mexico a nd the Southwest; ea stern a n d P l a i ns species p u sh u p i nto the foothi l l s ; a n d n o rthern forms co me south at high a ltitu des . Colorado boa sts of more species of b u tterfl ies tha n s u ch c l i mate-favored states as Ca l i fo r n i a and Florida . . Watch for those i l l u strated a nd m a n y others. For s i zes, a p p roxi m ate given i n i nches . COLORADO ARCTIC ( 1 . 6 i n . ) prefers h i g h a l t i t u d e s , u s u a l l y f l y i n g a bove t h e t i m be r l i n e . The l a rva feeds on sedges . The a d u l t i s a d u l l , brown ish· gray; females are possibly more ta n n i s h .
M AG DA L E N A ALP I N E ( 1 . 9 i n . ) i s an u n u s u a l , velvety- black butterfly of the a l pine zone. Occa sionally l a rge broods a p pe a r , but t h e l i f e h i story of this c o l l ecto r ' s item i s u n known.
O C H R E R I N G LET, ( 1 . 2 - 1 . 8 i n . ) abun· d a n t a n d easy to recogn ize by its yel· l o w i s h · brown c o l o r ; often h a s a dark spot on e a c h forewing a n d s maller spots a l o n g t h e edges of the back. New Mexico northwa rd . COLORADO HAI RSTREAK ( 1 . 5 i n . ) i s t h e . l a rgest m e m be r of a g r o u p of s m a l l b u t bea utiful butterf l i e s . Found at lower a l t i t u d e s in s c r u b a nd open wood s. The l a rva feeds on scru b oak.
EDWARDS' FRITI LLARY ( 2 . 5 i n . ) has heavy black borders w i t h o l i v e - b rown u n d e r s i d e s . Freq u e n t s open fo rests a n d grassl a nds . Females often feed on roadside t h i stles. Range: S . Canada to Colorado a n d Nebraska.
COLORADO A N G L E W I N G (2.0 in.) i s found along wooded mountain streams and va l l ey s from I d a h o and Wyoming south to New Mexico. Wing borders ragged; u n d e r s i d e s with varying pat· terns of gray.
COLORADO M A R B L E ( 1 . 7 - 2 . 0 i n . ) is co m mo n f r o m the lowland mea dows to t i m berl i n e forests. The p a l e-g reen larvae feed on p l a n t s of the m u stard fa m i l y . Found in the Rocky Mts. north to British Col u m b i a .
AL E XA N D R A ' S S U LP H U R ( 1 . 9- 2 . 3 i n . ) i s c o m m o n a bove 6 , 000 feet. U n d e r s i d e s of h i n d w i n g are pale grayi s h - g r e e n . F e m a l e p a l e yel l ow or w h ite; l a c k s c o n s p i c u o u s b l a c k bor· ders. Larvae eat legumes.
WEI D E M EY E R ' S A D M I R A L ( 2 . 1 - 2 . 6 i n . ) i n h a bits moist m e a d o w s , val leys, foot h i l l s and m o u n t a i n s i d e s . La rvae feed o n cotto n w o o d ; h i bernate in rol l e d - u p leaves. F o u n d from N. Mex. north to Montana.
M O U R N I N G C L O A K , ( 2 . 8 - 3 . 2 in.) a widespread N orth A m e r i c a n s pecies, has p u r p l e - b rown w i n g s with bl ue· spotted yellow borders a bove , dark u n d e r s i d e s . Cate r p i l l a rs feed o n soft. leaved trees.
PA R N ASSIAN (2.3 in.) i s seen near sto necrop i n forest o p e n i ngs, fields and open grass l a n d s . High and low alti t u d e f o r m s vary in s i z e . Wea k IIi· ers. R a nge: n o r t h e r n N. Mex. to so u t h ern C a n a d a . WEST E R N TI G E R S WALLO WTAIL (3 . 3 - 4 . 3 i n . ) , c o m m o n e s t of several la rge swa l l owta i l s . La rvae feed on w i l · l o w , cottonwood a n d a s p e n . Common from Plains westward, New Mexico to Ala s k a .
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WH
D
It wo u ld ta ke a l i feti me to see a n d lea rn to know the R o c k i e s , b u t even a short v a c a t i o n m a kes a beg i n n i ng. Here a re some p l aces to go and the ki nds of thi ngs to see, enjoy a nd u n dersta nd in the Rocky M o u nta i n s . To u r th rough National Pa rks a n d M o n u ments which preserve t h e bes.t o f o u r country's natural a n d h i storical heritage. Ta ke s h ort side t r i ps or camping tri ps to state and provi n c ial parks and National Forests. See b i r d s , game, and other w i l d l ife in t h e i r natural h a bitats; observe a l p i n e p l a n t s , r o c k s a n d geologic f o r m a t i o n s ; w a t c h b u b b l i n g m u d pots and e r u pting geysers. Boat o n m o u n t a i n - r i nged la kes or ta k e g u i ded trips down swift, wh ite-water rivers, through colorful canyons. Visit h i storic sites, I nd i a n reserva t i o n s , battlefields, ghost town s , m u se u m s and exhibits. Wa l k t h e natu re tra ils at leisure; hike the valleys, woods o r the mou nta i n s on m a rked tra i l s . Ta ke p a c k t r i p s b y horseback, o r t r y the chal lenge o f m o u n t a i n c l i m bs. Rest a n d relax at campgro u n d s s h a ded by ta l l p i n e s , i n resort hotels, at informal dude ranches, or at wel l - e q u i pped cabins. Try wi nter sports at ski centers or j u_st enjoy the magnificent views from l ifts, tows and elevated tramways. Fish t h e u n spoiled la kes and strea ms; hunt for game with gun or camera. Sample rodeos, rou n d u p s , frontier days, fai rs, and I nd i a n ceremonials.
NAT I ONAL PARKS AN D MON U M E N TS (4 P a r k s and 6 Monu ments) u n der the Nation a l Pa rk Serv i ce p reserve over fo u r m i l l i on acres of some of the most i nteresti ng pa rts of the Rocky M o u n ta i n regi o n . Set a s i de by Con gress o r by president i a l proc l a mation beca u se of their u n i q ue va l ue, these a rea s have a m ple fac i l ities for visitors. Cam p i ng is u s u a l ly per m i tted . R a ngers a n d r a n ger- n atu r a l i sts offer lect u res and g u i ded tri p s d u ri ng the s u m mer sea son. La rger Pa rks have m u seu m s . Check season dates a n d m a ke reserva t i o n s for l od g i n g at pea k t ravel t i mes. Moderate entra nce fees a re cha rged by most Parks.
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I
N ATIONAL PA R KS AND MONUMEN TS
i
9
I?O M iles
...... .. .. ..._ _ _ _ ... _ _
-- Main roads :Mtk eurrenl hllhWI)' ni.IPS for new nttrstalt lnd Deltnst HIJhWI)'S
- ·-r- ·
Tom McHugh-National Audubon Society
Rare Trumpeter Swans nest along secluded lakes in Yellowstone
ol dest ( 1 872) and best k n o w n N a t i o n a l Pa r k , is a l so the l a rgest ( 2 . 2 m i l l ion a c res). It f i l l s the n orthwest corner of Wyo m i ng, r u n n i ng over i nto M o n t a n a a n d I d aho. E a r l y re p o rt s by h u nters a n d t r a p pers of the n a t u r a l wonders of the Yel l owstone a rea see med so fa nta stic that they were l a beled f i ction. Volca n i c activity ha s c reated breath·ta k i n g scenery and is sti l l evidenced in the l a rgest col lection of geyser basi n s in the world (300 geysers , la rge and s m a l l ) . Old Fa ithf u l , the m ost f a m o u s , eru pts reg u l a rl y , l oft i n g s o me 1 0 , 000 ga l· Ions of w a ter 1 40 feet i nto the a i r , at i nterv a l s of a bout 65 m i n utes. Grand Loop Roa d , a 142· m i le sce n i c highway, con nects w i t h the f i ve m a i n entra n ce roa d s a n d p a s ses c l o se to most of the major attractions in the Pa r k . West, south a nd Y E L LOWSTONE NATIONAL PAR K,
1 18
e a st entra n ces a re o pen M a y 1 to N ovem be r 1. The n o rth entra nce at G a r d i ner, Monta n a , i s open a l l yea r a n d s n o w p l o w s u s u a l l y kee p the r o u te o pe n thro u gh M a m m oth Hot S p r i ngs, Tower J u nction a n d North· east Gate to Cooke. Hotels a n d i n ns c l ose in m i d - Septem ber . Many ca mp· U . S . Nat;anal Park SeNko g r O U n d S a re ava i l a b le in S U m mer. O l d Faithful erupting D u de ran ches su rro u n d the Park. The Loop Road lea d s to h u n d reds of hot s p r i ngs, b u b bl i ng m u d pots , s i nter cones, a n d ter· races, often brightl y colored by l i v i n g a l gae. At M a m m oth H ot S p r i ngs there a re a m u seu m a n d tra i l s thro u gh the s p r i ng a rea . A l s o see Yel l owstone Fa l l s , the m a n y-hued Yel l owstone c a n yo n , rel i c s of a petrified f o rest, a n d a m ounta i n of volca n i c glass (obsi d i a n) . M o r e tha n 2 0 0 s pec i es of b i r d s , i n c l u d i ng the ra re Tr u m peter Swa n and White Pel i ca n , a re found i n the Park. Yo u may see moose, elk, b i s o n , b i ghorn o r m o u nta i n sheep, m u le deer, a ntelope , b l a c k a n d grizzly bea rs, beavers, and coyotes. Lodgepole P i ne and b road - l eaved t rees d o m i n ate the lower elevations; a l pi ne w i l df l owers b l ossom in m i d - s u m me r nea r r e m n a n t s n o w ba n k s . Hear ranger - n a t u ra l i st ta l ks at m u se u m s a n d geyser ba s i n s . Boi l i n g m u d pot U.S. Notionai .Park Service
Do not feed the Bears U.S. National Park Service
����II::
Union Pacific Railroad
Longs Peok rises to 1 4, 2 5 6 ft. beh i n d Bear Lake, Rocky MI. National Park
i n c l udes more than 60 g l a c i a l ·cut pea ks extend i ng a bove 1 0 , 000 feet. Five l i ngering gla ciers, U · sha ped va l leys, a n d m a n y tarns or g l a c i a l l a kes a re rem i nders of the recent i ce a ges. Pink moss ca m pi o n s a n d yel low s n ow b u tterc u ps b l oom in a l p i ne meadows. B l ue col u m bi ne and m a ny other fl owers a re c o m m o n at l ower elevati o n s . M o u n ta i n meadows, a l p i·ne t u n d ra , a n d s l o pes of pi ne, f i r, a s pen , a n d spruce p rovide food a n d shelter for bi rds a n d s m a l l m a m mals. Here, too, a re herds of e l k , colon ies of beave r , a n d bands of bighorn sheep. Tra i l R i d ge Road (open s u m mers o n l y) , h i ghest paved thro u gh· highway i n the U n ited States, with a bout ten m i les a bove ti m berl i ne, per m i ts g l i m pses of severa l d i st i nct c o m m u n ities of pl a n t a n d a n i m a l l i fe. At the western end i s G r a n d L a ke, l a rgest high g l a c i a l l a ke i n Col or ado. Visit the m u se u m and visitors center ( M o ra i ne Park) the a l pi ne m u seum ( Fa l l R iver Pass) a n d severa l self·gu i d i n g , nature tra i l s .
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
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Altho u gh evi dence of g l a c i a l a cti o n i s widespread througho ut the Pa rk, and snowba n k s may persist a l l s u m· mer, the g l a c iers, magnificent from a d i sta nce, can be rea ched o n l y by foot tra i l s or by horse b a c k t r i p s . Experi· enced hi kers may want to scale Longs Pea k ( 1 4 , 2 56 ft.), Mc Hen ry Pea k , or Mt. R i chtofen ( i n the Never S u m mer M o u n ta i n s) . A g u i de is reco m men ded . Get a d v i ce from a P a r k ra nger. The Park i s open a l l yea r , tho u gh some roads a re closed in wi nter. The s u m mer program i n c l u des ta l ks, wa l ks , movies, and motor ca rava n s . Lodges , i n n s , a nd hote l s operate nea r the P a r k along a l l nea rby roads. Win· ter sports a re popu l a r at H i d den Va l ley on Tra i l R i dge but wi nter a ccommod ations a re r:nore l i m ited . Good camp· grounds a re n u mero u s . The Pa r k ' s ea stern entra n ces a re Fa l l R i ver, nea r the va l ley v i l l age of Estes Park, and at nearby Thom pson R i ver; G r a n d La ke is the western en· trance. Estes Park, with many stores, servi ces, and tou rist attracti o n s , has an aer i a l tra mway to the s u m m i t of Pros· pect M o u n ta i n . Dream lake l i e s near the foot of H a l l et Peak, Rocky 'Mt. National Park Union Pacific Railroad
WAT ERTON- GLACIER INT ERNATIONAL PEACE PARK on the M o n t a n a - C a n a d a border i n c l udes G l a c i e r N ational Pa r k in the U . S . , a n d adjoi n i ng Wa terton La kes N a tional Park i n A l berta . About 60 sma l l gl aciers sti l l c l i ng to the colorf u l ly scu l ptu red , sed imenta ry rock of high val leys and feed over 200 forest-edged l a kes - some many m i les i n len gth . F i n e l y gro u n d a n d s u s pended sed iment from the g l a c iers crea tes the va ried colors i n the l a kes a nd the mi l ky a p pea rance of streams. Snow may block high mounta i n pa sses f rom early fa l l to l ate s p r i n g , b u t hote l s a re open a n d tou rist servi ces ava i l a ble f rom J u ne 15 to September 10 . Goi ng-To-The- S u n H i gh way l i n ks La ke M c D o n a l d a n d St. M a ry La ke a n d offers a specta c u l a r 50-mi l e crossi n g of the C o n t i n e n t a l D i v i de. A n other r o a d l e a d s from G l a c i e r N at i o n a l Pa r k i nto the Waterto n La kes Pa r k . M a i n sce n i c feat u re of the sma l ler, Ca n a d i a n portion of the Park i s the l o n g r i bbon of Water ton La ke whi ch f i l l s a ro u n ded g l a c i a l ca rved va l ley. The l a ke i s s u rrou nded by conifer-clad s l o pes of s now- capped but glacierless pea ks.
G r i n n e l l Glacier ( left) a n d Mounta i n Goat ( rig ht), Glacier National Park U.S. Notional Park Service
Sob and Ira Spring
A fa m o u s hotel overl ooks Waterton lake
I n and a ro u n d both G l a cier and Waterto n Parks, hotels, ca b i n s a n d campgro u n d s a re ava i l a ble in summer. H i k i ng a n d h o rseba c k t ra i l s r a d i ate f rom the popu l a r centers of M a n y G l a c ier a n d Two Med i c i ne. There a re over 1 , 000 m i les of tra i l s in G l acier National Pa r k a l one a n d many on the Ca n a d i a n s i de, too. Ra nger- natural i sts provide g u i ded t r i p s a n d eve n i n g programs d u ri ng s ummer month s . F r o m s p r i n g to l ate s u mmer, g l a c i e r l i l ie s , bea rgrass, a n d b l ue ge nti a n s dot the m o u n ta i n mea d o w s . W h i te R ocky M o u nta i n goats ca n be sig hted on d i stant cl iffs. B i s o n , el k , deer a n d bea rs ( b l a c k a n d g r i z z l y ) a l s o roam t h e Pa r k . T h i s a rea w a s o n ce t h e h u nt i n g g ro u n d of the B l a c kfoot I n d i a n s . See t h e M u seum of the P l a i n s I n d i a n at B rown i ng, 1 2 m i les e a s t o f t he East G l acier. 1 23
U.S. National Park Service
V i sitors e n j o y w i l d flowers near Jenny Lake; Teton s in background
(sea son J u ne 15 to Septe m ber 1 5) i n northwestern Wyo m i ng i s d o m i n ated by ja g ged , g l a c i a l · c u t pea ks r i s i ng a b r u ptly a l most 7 , 000 ft. a b ove the p l a i n s . Lac k i n g foothi l l s , the Tet o n s c o n t rast sha rply with the sage a n d grassl a n d meadows of J ackson H ole, h i storic f u r·tra p per cou ntry to the east. Jenny La ke a n d other s m a l ler g l a c i a l l a kes f l a n k the Teto n front. M o u nta i n c l i m bers throng to the Teto n s . N o v i ces who want to scale the Grand Teton ( 1 3 . 766 ft. ) can tra i n at the P a r k · a p proved School of M o u n t a i neeri n g at J e n n y La ke. Les s a m b i t i o u s v i s itors ca n enjoy the t rees a n d f l owers, the u n i q ue geol ogy a n d g l i m pses of b i so n , moose, a nd el k . V i s itor centers a re l ocated at Colter Bay, Jenny La ke, and Moose . P u b l i c campgrounds and other accommodati ons a re a va i l a b le. A herd of m o re tha n 1 0 , 000 e l k w i nters at J a c kson H o le W i l d l ife Ra nge . GRAN D T ETON NATIONAL PAR K
1 24
The Ca n a d i a n Rockies, averagi ng o n l y a bo u t 70 m i les a c r o s s , exte n d northwest for h u n d re d s of m i les i nto A l a ska . Western Ca n a d i a n N a t i o n a l P a r k s a re co ncen· trated in southern A l berta and British Col u m b i a . M a n y f i ne p rovi n c i a l parks, s i m i l a r to U . S . state parks, a re a l so fo u nd i n t h i s regi o n . Al l parks of the C a n a d i a n Roc k ies, beca use of t he i r proxi m i ty a nd s i m i l a r c l i mates, h a ve s i m i l a r flora, fa u na , and A l p- l i ke scenery-mounta i n s ca rved by glaciers a nd spotted with i cefiel d s , or with snow-ca p ped pea ks. C h a let s , h ote l s , ca b i n s , and p u b l i c c a m pg ro u n d s pro v i de a c c o m m o d a t i o n s for v i s i t o r s . Resident p a r k off i cers a re o n d u ty to a s s i st . M o u nta i n c l i m b i n g , h i k i n g , boati ng, a n d fi s h i ng a re po p u l a r . In sea s o n , try s k i i ng, skati ng, a nd other w i nter s ports. M a ke i n q u i ries for w i nter tri ps and a ccom m o d a t i o n s as pa rt of the a rea i s c l o sed . See p . 138 for provi n c i a l pa rks. Notional a n d provi n c i a l C a n a d i a n parks
Josef Muench
lake louise lies below a s m a l l glacier in Banff Natidna l Park
BANFF NATIONAL PAR K, the f i r st ( 1 88 5 ) u n i t in C a n a d a ' s Nati o n a l Park system, i n c l udes s n ow- strea ked , pu rple-gray pea k s , heavi l y wooded s l o pe s , c a s ca d i n g waterfa l l s, ve rd a n t va l leys, and trout- stoc ked l a ke s . At the south of the Park ( a n d best seen from the Calga ry roa d , Rt. 1 A), is s pea rhea ded Mt. Assi n i bo i ne , the " M atterho rn of America" ( 1 1 , 870 ft . ) . North of Ba nff (ma i n entra n ce and Park hea d q u a rters), the Tra ns-Ca n a d a H i ghway lea d s to British Col u m b i a over K i c k i n g H o rse P a s s or on to La ke Lo u i se i n the La kes of the C l o u d s d i st r i ct , most p o p u ! a r w i l der ness s pot i n C a n a d a . The s u rfa ce of thi s deep (over 200 feet), c lea r, opalescent-green l a ke, wal led off from ruffl i ng b reezes , provides a perpet u a l ref l ecti o n of M t . V i ctori a . G l aciers a n d i ce fiel d s i n c rea s i ngly d ot the chi seled pea ks towa rd the north, term i n a t i n g on the B a nff-J a s per border in the 1 00-sq u a re-mi le Col umbi a l cefiel d .
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n o rth of Ba nff, i n c l udes more of the exte n s i ve Col umbia l cefiel d , out of whi ch j uts Snow Dome, the hyd rogra ph i c center of the N o rth Amer i c a n conti nent. The Atha baska R i ver, bound for the Arctic Ocea n , ri ses here a n d water a l so f l ows i nto streams that empty i nto the Atl a nt i c a n d P a c i f i c . Atha b a s k a G l acier is access i b le to vi sitors by foot or by snowm o b i l e . M a ny more g l a ciers a n d M o u nt Col umbia ( 1 2 , 2 94 feet), highest po i n t i n A l bert a , a re i n thi s P a r k a rea . La rgest of the m a n y l a kes i s M a l igne, nestled i n a n A l p- l i ke setti ng_ Other poi nts of i nterest i n c l u de Mt. E d i th C a ve l l with nea rby Angel G l a cier, sha ped l i ke an a ngel with outspread wi ngs, a n d M i ette Hot S p r i n g s pooL J a s per P a r k ha rbors s u ch w i l d a n i m a l s as the w o l veri ne, w o l f , otte r , g r i zzly, b i ghorn sheep a n d Rocky M o u ntai n goats . J a s per, a yea r ro u n d re s o rt center on J a s per La ke, c a n be reached by road f rom B a nff , by ra i l a n d road f rom Edmonton on the east, a n d from B r i t i sh Columbia over Yel l owhea d Pass. JASP ER NAT I ONAL PAR K,
Drainage f r o m Col u m b i a lcefi e l d fl o w s i n three directions
U N ITED STATES
over K i c k i n g H o rse P a s s f rom B a nff, i s r u gged , g l a c i ated , m o u nta i n c o u ntry where the Yoho R i ve r , fed by the Wa pta l cefiel d , f l ows thro ugh scen i c Yo h o Va l l ey . Wo rth see i n g a l so a re fossi l deposits, 1 , 6 50-foot Ta k a k kaw Fa l l s , many g l a ci a l l a kes and a l p i ne wi ld flowers i n s u m mer. Kootenay Nat. Park a djoi n s to the s o u t h . H ighl i ghts here a re M a r ble Canyon a n d Rad i um H ot Spri ngs.
Y O H O NAT I ONAL PAR K ,
l ie i n the Sel k i r k M o u nta i n s west of the m a i n Rockies. Both c o n ta i n a m i xt u re of Rocky M o u nta i n a n d P a c i f i c North west flora , e s pec i a l l y evident i n the fo rest t rees . W i l d l ife i s a b u nd a nt a m i d glaci ated mo u nta i n scenery. G l a cier, a c l i m be r ' s parad i se, a n d Revel stoke, a center for wi nter s ports, ca n be reached by ra i l a n d highway. G LAC I ER AND MT. R EV E LSTO K E NAT I O NAL PAR KS
Snowmobile, C o l u m b i a lcefield, J a s per National Pa rk Notional Porlts Branch, Dept. of Northern Affairs and Notional Resources, Ottawa
U.S. National Pork Service
Po rtly cleared bones in the famous Dinosaur Quarry
D I N OSAUR NAT I O NAL M O N U M E N T ( n o rthwestern Colo r a d o a n d n o rthea ste r n U tah) i nc l u des a w o r l d - f a mous d i nosa u r q u a r ry a n d some of the most i m p ressive w i l der ness canyon cou ntry in the West M ost accessi ble, a nd o pen a l l yea r , i s the q u a rry north of Jensen, U tah, a ro u nd whi ch h a s been b u i lt a m o d e r n v i s i t o r s ' cente r . Here exhi bits a n d r a n ger- n a t u ra l i sts i nter p ret the story of the d i nosa u rs . Visitors may be a ble to watch workers clea r i ng d i nosa u r bones i n the t i l ted M o rri son s a n d stone bed s in the north wa l l of the m u seu m . More tha n twenty excel lent s keleton s have a l ready been removed . S i de r o a d s l e a d to the u pti l ted , i n te r i o r c o u n t ry , d i s sected by the G reen a nd Ya m p a r i vers i nto dee p , red -to white wa l led ca nyons a n d tree-d otted p a r k l a n d s , s u ch as Echo Pa r k , in the shadow of m a ssive , s a n d stone Steam boat Rock. G u i ded boat trips on these rivers a re ava i l a ble. Fa r a bove, sem i - a ri d j u n i pe r a n d p i n o n forests edge the ri m ro c k . A ncient I n d i a n sites c a n be seen i n Castle Pa rk a n d other a rea s .
1 29
B L A C K CA N Y O N of the G u n n i so n , a N a t i o n a l Mon u ment i n western C o l o rado, i s o n e of the deepest, n a r rowest cha s m s i n the worl d . T h e r i ve r h a s s l o w l y cut through a n u p l i fted block of h a r d c rysta l l i ne roc k . Ta ke the roa d a l ong the southern ri m for a series of views. U.S. Notional Park Service
COLORADO
N A T I ONAL
4 m i les f rom G r a n d J u n c t i o n , p rese rves a ge m of w i n d a n d water ero s i o n . F l u ted c o l u m n s of red s a n d stone a nd c l i ffs a tho u s a n d feet h i gh vie with o d d - sha ped rock forma t i o n s . Drive in No Thorough fa re C a n y o n . U se the camp gro u n d . O pen a l l yea r. M O N U M ENT,
is a N at i o n a l M o n u ment on the sl opes of the Wasatch Ra nge nea r S a l t L a ke C i t y . Stal ac tites, sta l a g m i tes and many b r a n c hed hel i ct i tes c a n be seen i n the i l l u m i n a ted but c h i l l y c a ve r n s . A scenic tr a i l z i g- z a g s over 1 , 000 feet up to the cave entrance .
TI M PA N OG OS CAV E U.S. Notional Park Service
Josef Muench
B I G H O L E BATTLEFI E L D , a N a t i o n a l M o n u ment, i s the site s o u thwest of A n a co n d a , M o nta n a , where one of the l a st battles agai nst the I n d i a n s wa s fo u ght i n 1 8 7 7 . Here U . S . troops engaged a large fo rce of poorly- armed Nez Perce I n d i a n s u nder Chief J oseph, who was lea d i ng his ba n d to safety in Ca n a d a . In the battle, 89 I n d i a n s were k i l led , over 30 of whom were women a n d chi l d re n .
southea st of B i l l i n g s , Mont. , i s a N at i o n a l Mo n u ment that m a rks the site of the famous Battle of the Little Big Horn ( below) . Here Genera l C u ster, who had been warned of the l a rge I n d i a n fo rces , was ki l led and his troops were wi ped out by the S i o u x and Cheyen ne u n der Sitting B u l l a n d C razy H o rse. CUSTER BATT L E FIELD,
Arti s t ' s i n terpretation of Custe r ' s L o s t Sta nd Courtesy J o h n S. du Mont
1 31
Highway Commission, South Dakota
Heads of four presidents are carved on Mount Rushmore
T H E B LAC K H I L LS Geologica l l y l i ke the R oc k i e s, b u t a h u n d re d m i l e s east i n South Da kota, is a great isolated rock i s l a n d -the B l ack H i l l s . R i s i n g severa l thousand feet a bove the s u rro u n d i ng p r a i rie, the central gra n i te core m a kes u p most of the B l a c k H i l l s s ky l i n e . Thi s m i n i atu re version of the Rockies has its own d i sti nctive attracti o n s . S o m e of t h e m ost i m po s i n g g r a n ite m o n o l i ths and s p i re s of the B l a c k H i l l s a re i n cl u d e d in C u st e r State Park a nd adjoi n i n g N orbeck Wi l d l ife Preserve . In the center of thi s a rea i s d e l i ghtf u l Syl va n La ke. C u ster State Pa rk has a m u s e u m, a zoo and many recreational fac i l ities. I n addi tion to on e of America ' s l a rgest herd of b i son, one can a l so see w i l d t u r keys, b i ghorn she e p, a n d m o u nt a i n goats ( i n t ro d uced). N eed l es H i ghway provi d e s scen i c p a nora m a s . So d oes t u n n e l - spotted I ron M o u nta i n Road to Mount R u sh more (a bove), site of G utzon Borgl u m ' s 60-foot-high portraya l s of Wa shi ngton, J efferson, Lincoln, a nd Theodore R oosevelt, ca rved on the face of the m o u n ta i n . 1 32
S o u th of C u ster i s W i n d Cave N at i o n a l Pa r k , o pen a l l yea r . B i son, a ntel o pe, deer a nd el k roa m the a rea. T o the west i s a n other s m a l l b u t del i ghtf u l c a ve r n , J ewel Cave N a t i o n a l M o n . East of the B l a c k H i l l s l ies the B a d l a n d s Nat. Mon . , noted for its oddly eroded sed i ments and foss i l s of m a n y m a m m a l s . N o rthwest some si xty m i les i s Dev i l ' s Tower N a t . M on . , a breathtaki ng, flat-topped vol ca n i c p l u g, 1 , 280 ft. h i gh , formed some 20 m i l l ion yea rs ago a n d now exposed by eros i o n . A m u se u m expl a i n s the sto ry of this u n i q ue m o u n ta i n . See the fa med m i nlng towns of Lead a n d Dead wood . H o mesta ke M i ne, a ctive s i n ce 1 878 , is o pen to v i sitors. Dea d wood reta i n s many of its o l d b u i ld i ngs a n d the graves of W i l d B i l l H i ckock and Ca l a m ity J a ne. Gran ite spires along Needles H i g h way, Black H i i l s, South Da kota Highway Commission, South Dakota
Herbert S. Zim
l u m be r i n g i n Gallatin National Forest, Montana
NATIONAL FORESTS u nder the U . S. Fo rest Serv i ce cover m u c h of t he Rockies, where, i n five state s , t hey h a ve an a rea twice that of New Yo r k . These Forests a re multi p u r pose p u b l i c l a nds u sed for l um beri n g , m i n i ng, graz i ng a nd watershed p rotect i o n . They a re eq u a l l y important for recreati o n a n d offer many sites for camp i ng a n d picnick i ng. H u nt i n g , f i s h i ng, ho rseback r i d i n g , boati n g a n d chi l ly swimm i n g a re a l so ava i la ble i n these Forests. I nformation ava i l a ble from l ocal hea d q u a rters. See p . 1 4 . NATIONAL FORESTS A N D H EADQUARTERS Colorado: Arapaho, Golden; Gunnison, G u n n i so n ; Pike, Col orado Spri ngs; Roosevelt, Fort Col l i n s ; Routt, Stea mboat Springs; San Isabel, Pueblo; Uncompahgre, Delta; White River, Glenwood Springs Idaho: Challis, C h a l l i s ; Clearwater, Orofino; Coeur d'Alene, Coeur d ' Alene; Kaniksu, Sandpoint; St. Joe, St. Maries; Targhee, St. Anthony Montana: Beaverhead, Dillon; Bitterroot, Hami lton; Deerlodge, B utte; Flathead, K a l i spel l ; Gallatin, Boze m a n ; Helena, H e l e n a ; Kootenai, L i bby; Lewis and Clark, G reat Fa l l s ; Lola, M i ssoula Utah: Ashley, Vern a l ; Cache, Logan ; Uinta, Provo; Wasatch, Salt Lake City. Wyo ming: Bighorn, Sheridan; Bridger, Kemmerer; Medicine Bow, Laramie; Shoshone, Cody; Teton, Jackson
1 34
WIL D ERNESS AREAS have been set aside to preserve w i ld a n d p r i m i ti ve reg i o n s of N at i o n a l Fo rests . Of the 29 Wil· derness A reas (each with over 1 00 , 000 a c res) m a ny a re i n or nea r the Rockies. Of s m a l ler s i ze ( 5 , 000 to 1 00 , 000 acres) a re the W i l d A reas. Both a re co ntrol led by the U . S. Forest Service. A few roads and truck tra i l s a re kept open for f i re p rotect i o n , b u t access to Wi l derness A rea s i s by foot, on ho rse or by c a n oe. These a re the a reas for " ro u gh i n g it. " Try a pack tri p with a gu i de. Check regional fo restry hea d q u a rters (p. 1 4) a n d rea d Handbook of Wilderness Travel, by Wel l s, H a r per B ros . , 1 9 56. WI L D E R N ESS A R EAS Wyomi ng: B r i d ger, Glacier, N o r t h Absaroka, South Absaro k a , Stratifi ed, Teton . Montana: Anaco n d a - Pi nt l a r , Bea rtooth, Bob Marsh a l l . Montana and Idaho: Selway- Bitterroot. Idaho: Sawtooth. Utah: H igh U i ntas. WILD AR EAS Colorado: Gore- Eagle N est, M a roon-Snowmass, Rawa h , Uncom· pahgre, Wild E l k - Eagle Nest. Wyoming: Cloud Pea k , Pope Agie. Montana: Absaroka , Cabi net Mts . , Gates of the Mountains, M i ssion Mt.
Th ere a re many other areas i n the Rockies, prim itive, isol ated and u n i n hab· ited, that a re not officially Wild or Wilderness Areas. S awtooth Wilderness Area south of Stan ley, I d a h o B o b a n d I r a Spring
WILDLIFE R E F U G ES, of the U . S . F i sh a nd W i l d l i fe Servi ce, a re m o re n u mero u s to the east tha n i n the Rockies. Seven a re i n the a rea a n d m o re a re nea rby. Herds of big game, flocks of waterfowl a n d other w i l d l ife may be seen , giving vi sitors an u nexcel led opportu n i ty for o bservati o n a nd photogra phy. A n i m a l s a re p rotected e , x· cept d u r i ng occa s i o n a l s u pervi sed h u n t i n g sea s o n s , a nd m a n y breed i n the refuge a rea s . S i n ce h u nting is prohibited i n Nat i o n a l Parks, these too serve as ref uges . I nf o r m a t i o n i s ava i l a ble f ro m ref u ge m a n a gers and f r o m the Fish a n d W i l d l ife Servi ce , Wa shi n gton 2 5 , D.C. A l s o rea d Seeing A merica's Wildlife in our Na tional Refuges, by Devereux B utcher , Houghto n , 1 9 5 6 .
NATIONAL
S O M E NATI ONAL W I L D L I F E R E F U G E S I N T H E R O C K I E S
(Mainly for waterfowl unless otherwise noted) Idaho: Camas, J efferson Co. -also pronghorns; Minidoka, B l a i n e a n d Cassia Cos. Montana: Benton Lake, Cascade and Chouteau Cos . ; Nat. Bison Range, Sanders a n d Lake Cos . - bison, elk, deer, bighorn sheep; Red Rock Lake, Beaverhead C o . - i n c l u d i ng rare Trum peter Swan. Montana a l so has several large refuges east on the P l a i n s . Uta h : Famous Bear River Refuge ( Box Elder Co.) i s w e s t o f the Rockies. Wyoming: Nat. Elk R efuge, Teton Co. -also includes a variety of big game,
waterfowl and u pland gamebirds; Pathfinder, Natrona a n d Carbon Cos.-also pronghorns. Waterfowl a n d shorebirds feed at Bear River Refuge, Utah
a re less known a n d he n ce m a y not be as c rowded as N at i o n a l P a r ks. They a re m o re com mon in I d aho and M o n ta n a . B r it i sh Col u m b i a boasts of f i ne, l a rge p rovi n c i a l p a r k s a n d A l berta has m a n y s m a l l ones. There a re fewe r state a re a s i n the s o u the rn R o c k i e s . C o l o rado h a s only roa d s i de parks at p rese n t . M o st of the l a rge Canad i a n parks l ie a l ong the C o n t i nenta l D i vide a n d i n Montana Higkway Commission CI Ude rugged mounta i n SeenC a v e formations i n l e w i s a n d Clprk e ry . State p a r k s ( a n d m a ny Cavern State Park, Montana c o u nty or l o c a l pa rks) i n c l u de fac i l ities f o r r'ec �ea t i o n , p i c n i c k i n g a n d ca m p i ng. Campgrou nd g u ides ( p . 1 4 1 ) often give deta i l s on these fac i l ities and on cha rges, if any. STATE PARKS
M O NTANA L e w i s a n d C l a r k Cavern State P a r k (entrance f e e ; g u i d e d tours) i n c l u d e s t h e t h i rd l a rgest cave i n U . S . , 300 ft. deep with col u m n s , s p i res and h e l ictites. WYO M I N G H ot Springs State Park near T h e r m o po l i s h a s f o u r big a n d many small m i neral hot spri ngs, i n c l u d i n g one of the l a rgest and hottest i n t h e world. I ndoor and outdoor swi m m i n g pools; e l k and b i s o n herds. I DAHO l:l eyburn State Pa rk, at the southern tip of Coeur d ' Ale ne Lake, includes streams and mountain foot t r a i l s . Lava Hot Springs Pl u nge southeast of Pocatello i s a health center. BRITISH COLU M B I A has t h e la rgest provincial parks in the Cana dian Rockies. H a m ber, Mt. Robson, Wel l s Gray and Kokanee Glacier parks have m u c h to offer in scenery, recreati o n and c a m p i n g , a s d o m a ny other s m a l ler prov'lncial parks. ALBERTA has over a dozen sma l l parks i n the western part and a l so has many roadside campgrou nds. Check you r road map. FOR M O R E I N FO R M ATI O N write to agencies s u ggested on p. 14. Yo u r i n q u i ry w i l l be forwarded if it cannot be an swered d i rectly.
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S u n set in city pork, Denver
r i ghtly boasts of i t s u n i q ue system of some 49 p a r k s , covering an a rea of 380 s q . m i les. M o st a re in the m o u nta i n s , forming a huge c i rcle southwest of Denver. Some a re with i n the c ity l i m i ts. The p a r k s a fford scenic m o u nt a i n d r ives, views of many pea k s , ferti le v a l leys, watershe d s , l a kes, strea ms, a n d wi l d l ife. S i de tri ps over b a c k roa d s , lead i n g to ra nches , m o u n ta i n mead ows and sta n d s of pi nes and a s pen s, w i l l p rove rewa rd i n g, too. M ost parks have picnic a rea s ; some have m u seums. Only 3 0 m i n utes west of De n ver i s Lookout P a r k and B u ffa l o B i l l ' s G rave. Pa rk of the Red Roc ks, 14 m i les west of Denver, conta i n s the fa m o u s Red Rocks Theater, b u i lt i nto .the n a t u r a l Triassic red sandstone hogbacks. Here eros i o n has for med a n acousti c a l ly perfect a u d itori u m . A 30- m i le tri p to Bergen Park lea d s from I d aho Spri ngs over Sq u a w Pass to Echo Lake and S u m m i t Lake parks a n d , D ENVER
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over the h i ghest a uto road i n the U n i ted States, to· the top of Mt. Eva n s - 14, 260 feet. Here, in addition to the s u perb views, is a major cosmic ray l a boratory. In Genesee Park, 2 0 m i les west of Denver, and at Daniel s P a r k , 21 m i les south, b i s o n , e l k a n d a ntelope graze peacef u l ly . i s long fa med a s a resort a rea with a noted c ity park syste m . Nea rby i s the Ga rden of the G o d s , a p a r k of u ptu rned , red sed i ments, i n c l u d i ng a huge b a l a nc i n g roc k . A c i rcle road to u r gives a one-day view of the m o u n ta i n s . Other d r i ves i n c l ude the sce n i c R a m pa rt Range Road and the Gold Ca m p Roa d . Best k nown attrac tion is Pi kes Pea k ( 14, 1 10 ft. ) , reached by car via tol l road or by cog ra i l road . Cheyenne Mt. Zoo a n d W i l l Rogers Memori a l , Seven Fa l l s and Cave of the W i n d s a re a l so wo rth a vi sit. See Colorado C o l l ege , the nea r by F i ne Arts Center, P i o neer M u seu m , a n d N O R A D . A b o u t 7 m i les n o rth is the U . S . A i r Fo rce Academy. G ro u n d s open d a i ly; pa rades on Satu rdays.
COLORADO SPRINGS
P i k e s P e a k f r o m the Gorden of the Gods, Colorado Springs Josef Muench
Bob and Ira Spring
Tra i l Ia Hale-i n-the-Wa l l Camp, Glacier National Park
is rew a r d i n g . No m a ps a re needed for the popu lar, wel l - ma rked tra i l s . Fa rther afield the hi ker sho u l d u se the loca l U . S . G . S . topographical maps ( p . 1 4). Visitors can try everyth i n g from easy n a t u re wa l ks to l o n g wi l derness trips with a g u ide. Don ' t overesti m a te yo U r a b i l ity. H i gh cou ntry hi k i n g is exhi l a rati ng but the "th i n " a i r is t i r i n g to newcomers. H i ke with a compa n i o n . Stay on the tra i l s a n d a v o i d sho rt c u t s . Suit yo u r c l othi ng a rid eq u i pment to y o u r tri p . Comforta ble shoes , warni c l oth i n g , p l u s a wind b rea ker a re recommended . Ta ke a s l i c ker for s u m mer showers. Leave word a bout where you a re go i n g a n d when you expect to ret u r n . I f yo u r stay i s long, i n q u i re a bo u t l o c a l h i k i n g c l u bs. The S ky Line Tra i l H i kers and the Ca n a d i a n Youth Hostel e rs have a n n u a l exc u rsions i n the n o rther n R o c k i e s . H i kers c a n be e a s i l y tem pted by m o u nta i n c l i m b i ng ( p . 1 42), which i s at Its best here. HIKING
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CAMPGROUNDS a re plentif u i . R oa d s i de p i c n i c a rea s a re com mon a n d i nc rea sing i n n u m ber. Faci l ities at desig· n ated c a m ps i tes range from c rude cleari ngs in W i lderness Areas to wel l - p l a n ned c a m p s with c a b i n s , tent p l a tforms or t r a i ler s i tes, t a b les, f i re p l a ces, wate r , a n d rest rooms. Some state parks cha rge s m a l l fees. S i nce c a m pgro u nds may be c rowded from Memor i a l Day to Labor Day, p l a n to a r r i ve at a ca m psite ea r l y . Lengths of stay a re l i m ited i n the more popu l a r ca m pgro u n d s . I n q u i re i n adva nce. Check at Nati o n a l Fo rest a n d P a r k hea d q u a rters for location of c a m ps a n d m a p s , or use the g u i des l i sted bel ow. Campground Atlas of the U.S. and Canada, B i e r a n d R a u p , Alpine. 1 960. Campground Guide, Rand M c N a l l y . Guide t o Campsites, Camping Family, I n c . , H a m m o n d , 1 9 6 1 . Intermountain West (Ca m psite Finder Vol . 3 ) , H a rtesveldt, Natu regra p h , 1 95 7 . Sunset Nature Campsite Directory, L a n e , 1 962.
C a m p i n g on Mirror L a k e near Devi l ' s P e a k , I d a h o B o b a n d I r a Spring
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M O U N T A IN
CLI M B I NG
comes n a t u r a l l y i n thi s l a nd of " shi n i n g mounta i ns . " Col o r a d o b o a s t s of 54 pea ks h i gher tha n 1 4 , 000 feet. No othe r R o c ky M o u nta i n state h a s a n y thi s high. Longs Pea k , 1 4 , 2 5 5 ft. , i s a Colo r a d o f a v o r i te . M o u ntain c l i m b i n g ta kes an essentia l k n ow-how which the i nex per i e n ced b u t phys i c a lly fit v i sitor c a n a cq u i re easi ly. For the n ov i ce , the o n l y re q u i rement i s to keep on the t ra i l . For d i ff i c u l t c l i m bs a g u i de a n d f u l l eq u i pment a re Bob and Ira Spdng i m perative. Begi n ners m i ght C l i m b i n g Longs Peak, C o l orado t ry the b a s i c i n st r u ction given every s u m mer i n G rand Teton National Park. I n q u i re loca l l y for deta i l s of classes and g u i ded c l i m b s . Never sta rt on a c l i m b that w i l l ta ke y o u o f f m a r ked t ra i l s w i thout p roper eq u i p ment a n d w i thout f i rst check i n g m a p s , t ra i l deta i l s , a n d tel l i n g a friend or a Park ranger where you a re goi ng. H i gh R oc ky pea k s in Colorado i n c l u de M t . E l bert, 1 4 , 43 1 , M t . M a s s i ve, 1 4 , 4 1 8 , a n d Pi kes Pea k , 1 4 , 1 1 0. H i ghest pea k s i n Wyo m i ng a re Mt. G a n nett , 1 3 , 7 8 5 and G r a n d Tet o n , 1 3 , 7 66. Utah ' s Ki ng' s Pea k , 1 3 , 49 8 , Mon t a n a ' s G r a n i te Pea k , 1 2 , 8 5 0 , a n d B ri t i sh Col u m bi a ' s Mt. · R o b s o n , 1 2 , 9 7 2 , a re other h i gh m o u n ta i n s . So me of the best, a n d most d i ff i c u l t , m o u n ta i n s for c l i m b i n g a re not the hi ghest ones. 1 42
of the Rockies come from a cent u ry of m i n i ng boo m s . So me a re neglected col lect i o n s of c r u m b l i n g c a b i n s , b u t m a n y a re restored beca u se of new m i n· i ng acti vity o r have become reso rts a n d vacation centers. G H OST TOW N S
Colorado: Aspen boomed i n the 1 890's; Central City-Black Hawk, once " rich· est square m i l e on earth , " famous now for its old m i n i n g flavor; Cripple Creek, fifth richest gold center of worl d ; Leadville, nation's s i lver capital around 1 878; Silverton, center of San J u a n m i n i n g d i strict. Nea rby are Telluride, Ouray and Creede. Also see Waldorf, one of regio n ' s h i g hest ghosts; wel l - p reserved St. Elmo; Georgetown, f a m o u s for its 1 4 - c u rve na rrow-gauge Loop. Idaho: Idaho City, once a territory capita l ; Florence, state's richest gold camp; Pierce, go l d fi rst d i scovered in 1 860, a n d nearby Yellowpine; Silver City, most pictur esque gold a n d s i l ve r ghost; Bonanza, and Custer, boom towns of the 1 870's; also Gem, i n t h e Coe u r d ' A l ene a rea . M ontana: Bannock, Monta n a ' s fi rst capi ta l ; Cooke, old gold and s i lver town; Gold Creek, gold fi rst d i scovered here; Marysville, one-ti m e lead i n g gold prod u cer; Virginia City, Monta n a ' s second capita l . Utah: Alta, once a bustling m i n i ng town ; Park City, m i nes once yiel ded over $300 m i l l i o n ; Brigham Canyon, began a s a gold town ; now copper; Silver Reef, now in r u i n s . Wyoming: Bald City, a short- l i ved gold camp; Carbon, fi rst coa l - m i n i n g town; Grand Encampment, in the copper field, and Dillon with its ta l l o u t h o u se s ; South Pass City a n d Atlantic City on the Continental Divide. British Columbia: K ootenay Lake cou ntry has mining ghost towns.
leadville, Colorado was once the " si lver capito l "
Josef Muench
Bob and Ira Spring
H a l f Moon lake in the Wind River Rdnge, Wyo m i n g , in a u t u m n
R I V ERS AND LAKES (natural and rese rvoi rs) a re common i n t h e R o c ky M o u n ta i n s , often servi n g a m u lt i p l e u se. They provide water for i rrigation, power a nd d r i n k i ng , a i d in fl ood and erosion contro l , and ma ke poss i b l e f i s h i ng , swim m i n g , boati ng, water- s k i i ng, and waterfowl h u nti ng. M a ny l a kes a re m a n - ma d e . A l l a d d a plea s i n g va ri ety to the cou ntrys i d e . The rea l gems a re the m a n y s ma l l , glacial l a ke s , most of them off the beaten pat h . Thousands of small stre a m s a nd the headwaters of many major rivers flow f r o m the Rockies. Fi s h i n g i s f a m o u s ( p . 1 46). I nq u i re loca l l y for boat trips on the l a rger rivers and l a kes. Among t h e region ' s foremost l a kes a re: Colorado: Gra n d . Shadow Mou nta i n , Granby, Taylor Park, Trapper's, Maroo n . Wyo ming: Ye l l owsto ne, J a c kson, Cooper, Wheatl a n d , Pathfi nder, S e m i noe, Boysen. Idaho: Pend Orei l l e ( I d a h o ' s largest), American Fa l l s , Pa l i sades, Coeur d ' Alene, P r i est, Cascade, Big Payette, Wa l cott, Redfi s h , I s l a n d Park, A rrowhead, Blackfoot R iver. Montana: Fl a th ea d, H u ngry H orse, H olter, Hebgen, Tiber, Ca nyon Ferry, Georgetown, Wade. Utah: Great Salt Lake ( 1 500 sq. m i l es , very salty), Uta h , Bear, Strawberry. Alberta: Mal igne, Louise, Kananaskis, Spray. British Columbia: Kootenay, Arrow Lakes, S h u swap, Jewel.
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SPRING S , cold a n d hot, flow by the t h o u s a n d s . T h ose in contact with h eated vo lca n i c roc k are hot. La rgest concen· tration of h ot spri ngs (some 3 , 000) i s in Yel l owstone a m id s c e n i c geysers a n d m u d pot s . Oth e r hot s p r i ngs a re the s i tes of pools a n d resorts. Better known s p r i n g a reas a re: Colorado: Canon City, two s u l p h u r springs, d i scovered by P i k e i n 1 806; Glen· wood Springs, Ya m p a h S p r i n g s u p p l i e s l a rgest ( 1 , 6 5 0 ft.) outdoor m i neral pool i n world; Hot Sulphur Springs, more t h a n a dozen hot springs; Idaho Springs spa dates back to 1 868; Manitou Springs with famo u s Soda Spri ngs; Ouray, h ighest m i neral springs and pool ; Pagosa Springs, 1 53 ° springs heat homes; Poncha Springs, a bout 1 00 springs, u p to 1 8 5 ° ; Steamboat Springs, 1 57 springs and pools of various tem peratures. Idaho: Lava Hot Spri ngs (state park), 140° m i neralized water; Soda Springs (on Oregon Tra i l ) , va riety of hot and cold spri ngs; Malta, American Legion health p l u nge; Hot Springs (near Payette), hot medicinal water and mud baths; Big Springs, sou rce of t h e North Fork of the Snake. Montana: Giant Springs (near Great Fal l s), one of worl d ' s la rgest, 1 5 2 ° ; Mont Aqua, mineral ized water is bottled; White Sulphur Springs, resort. Utah; B l u e , Sweet Water, and I ro n - a l l s m a l l spri ngs. Wyoming: Sa ratoga , a state reserve, medicinal waters; Thermopol i s State Park, h u ndreds of mineral hot springs i n c l u d i ng largest i n the world; Warm Spri ngs, t h e 70' water once u sed by Oregon Tra i l travelers. �I beria : Banff, Hot S u l p h u r Springs; Jasper, M i ette Hot Springs. British Columbia: Fairmont H ot Springs, one of sou rces of water for C o l u mbia R iver; Halcyon; Rad i u m Hot Springs, i n K ootenay N . P.
Mam moth Hot Springs are the largest in Yel lowstone Notional Park U.S. National Park Service
Bob and lro Spring
F i s h i n g Swift C u rrent River, Glacier National Park, Monta n a
for trout i s popu l a r t h roughout the Roc kies from N ew M e x i co i nto Ca n a d a . Lakes a n d rivers a re often stoc ked . Check l oca l l y for l i cense req u i rements a n d catch l i m i t s . Vi sit t h e n u merous fi s h h a tc h e r i e s open to the p u b l i c . C a l ga ry, Ca nada, has worl d ' s l a rgest trout hatch ery. F I SH I NG
W H E R E TO F I S H
Colorado: T h e G u n n i s o n R i v e r . Conejos, F r y i n g Pan a n d Colorado; Tra p per's Lake a n d others. 1 5 , 000 miles of streams; 2 , 500 l a kes. Idaho: B uffa lo River, Henry Lake, Payette Lake, Lake Pend Orei l l e , Pri est Lake, Sal mon River, Silver Creek, Snake River. Montana: B i g Hole R i ver, Flathead Lake, G a l l a t i n R i ver, Georgetown Lake, Hebgen Lake, Madison River, Sun River, Tiber and Wade Lakes. Utah: D u c h esne R i ver, Logan River, Provo River wate rshed, Strawberry Lake, U i nta Mountain streams, Utah Lake, Wa n s h i p Lake. Wyoming: DeSmet Lake, E n c a m p ment River, Gras Ve ntre R i ver, North Platte R i ver, Pathfi nder Lake, Semi noe La k e , S h o s h o n e National Forest streams, Yel lowstone R iver and Yel l owstone Lake. British Columbia: Brooks River. Clea rwater R i ver, J ewel Lake, t h e K a m loops and Kootenay Lake cou ntry, K i c k i ng H o rse River. Alberta: Bow River a n d tributaries, the K a n a n a s k i s a n d Spray l a kes, O l d man River headwaters.
1 46
a n d tra p p i n g origi n a l l y opened u p the Rocky M o u nta i n w i l d erness. The " o l d days" a r e gone b u t ga me is sti l l a b u n d a n t and many sti l l come here to h u nt. Elk a n d mule d eer a re prime fa l l ga me of the region. Less fre· q u ently bagged a re grizzly a n d black bea rs, moose, bi son, bighorn sheep, mounta i n goats a n d l i ons, w h i te-ta i l ed d e e r , a n d pronghorn a ntel ope. S ma l l er g a m e i n c l u d e bob· cat, with tra p p i n g for beaver, s k u n k , m u s krat, wea sel and m a rten . T h e re is good h u nt i n g for waterfowl a l o n g rivers a n d l a ke s . U p l a n d ga m e b i r d s i nc l u d e sage h e n s , ri ng· nec ked p h e a s a nts, and several k i n d s of grouse. State l i censes a re req u i red and can be p u rc h a sed at most resorts a n d sport i ng goods stores. State game a n d fish depart· m e nts a t the state c a p i ta l s offer h u nt i n g i nformation. F i n a l ly, everyone can enjoy h u nting with a camera. Excel· l e n t s h ots c a n be taken i n parks where guns a r e p ro h i bited .
H UNTI NG
B i s o n on National Bison Range near Dixon, Montana Allan Cruickshank-National Audubon Society --.....,
1 47
M U S E U M S a r e p l e ntif u l i n t h e R o c k i e s , t h o u g h Denver a n d S a l t Lake a re t h e o n l y l a rge c i t i e s . M ost u n i versities, a l l the N a t i o n a l Parks, a n d m a ny N a t i o n a l M o n u ments h ave natural h i story m u s e u m s . There a r e good a rt m u se u m s , too. Loc a l pioneer m u s e u m s a re po p u l a r . T h e geo l ogica l exh i b its in several local m u se u m s a re worth ta k i ng ti me out to see. C o l o r a d o : Bo ulder, U n i v . of Colo. M u s . ; Canon City, M u s . of N a t . H i st . ; Colorado Springs, Colo. College M u s . , Fine Arts Center, Air Force Academy M u s . , Ft. C a r s o n M u s . ; Denver, U . S . M i nt, M u s . of Nat. H i s t . , Art M u s . , S c h l e i e r G a l l e r i e s , Clock M a n o r M u s . (clocks), C h a p p e l l H s e . ( a rt), State Hist. M u s . -)1 i storical dioramas; Golden, Colo. School of M i nes Geology M u s . , Colo. R a i l road M u s . ; Gunnison, Weste rn State Col lege archeology m u s . ; Montrose, Ute I n d i a n M u s. Idaho: Boise, State Capital M u s . (outsta nding bi rd exhi bits); Pocatello State College M u s . , Nat. H i st. M u s . Montana: Billings, Yellowstone M u s . ; Boze· man, M c G i l l M u s . ; Browning, M u s . of P l a i n s I nd i a n ; Butte, M o n t a n a School o1 M i ne s Geology M u s . , C h a r l e s M. R u s s e l l G a l l e ry a n d M e m . M u s . ; Helena, Mont. State M u s . and R u ssell G a l l e ry; Missoula, Art M u s . Utah: Salt Lake City, Latter Day Saints C h u rch Mus. of Nat. Sci . , State Ca pital M u s . , Univ. of Utah a rt ga l lery and geol ogy m u s . ; Springville, a rt gallery; Vernal, Utah Field Hse. of Nat. H i st . Wyoming: Como Bluff, " C reati o n " fossil m u s . ; Cheyenne, Wyo. Geology M u s . ; Jackson Hole, J a c kson Hole M u s . ; Laramie, U n i v . o f Wyo. Geology M u s . ' Alberta: Banff, N a t . H ist. M u s . , Luxton M u s . ( l nd ians). N a rrow gouge train i n Colorado R a i l road Museum Herbert s. · Z i m
1 48
Warren Hamilton
Polar Bears in the Denver Zoo
a n d other e x h i bits a re worth a stop. P l a nti ngs ra nge from co m m e rc i a l i ri s crops a t B o u l d e r to rock a n d rose gardens a n d l i v i n g study c o l l e ct i o n s (a rbo· ret u rns). Zoos in the l a rge c i t i e s a re best. Avoi d roadside zoos with a few caged a n i m a l s , kept a s to u ri st ba it. Don't miss t h e self-gu i d i n g n at u re t ra i l s in N a t i on a l Pa rks. GAR DENS, ZOOS
Colorado: Boulder, commercial i r i s gardens; Colorado Springs, Cheyenne Moun ta i n Z oo ; Denver, H a bitat Zo o and botanical g ard e ns i n C i ty Park, Roseacre (roses, l i l i e s , J a panese garden); Grand Junction, Lincoln Park Zoo; Greeley, Grasmere rock gardens; Pueblo, rose gardens in M i neral Palace Park; zoo. Idaho: Caldwell, m u n ic i p a l rose garden s ; Idaho Falls, Sport m a n ' s I s l a nd Zoo; Moscow, Shattuck a rboret u m ; Payette, Showberger bota n i c a l gardens; Twin Falls, Gaski l l botanical garden. Montana: Billings, Wonderland Zoo; Butte, rock gardens; Great Falls, botanical gardens; Red Lodge, "See E m Al ive" zoo. Utah: Provo, State fish hatchery and game farm; Salt Lake City, Li be rty Park rose gar d e n s and zoo, Hogle Gardens Zoo, I nternational Peace Gardens, George Wa sh i n gton Memorial G rove. Wyoming:_ Casper, m u nici pal gardens; Cheyenne, Great P l a i n s hortic u l t u r a l stat i o n , Lions Park s u n ken gardens; Lovell, rose gardens; Powell, spring garden tours; Thermopolis Hot Springs, zoo. Alberta : Banff, Cascade Rock Gardens, buffalo paddocks; Calgary, Reader rock gardens (plants from around the world), B u rns Memorial gardens, Brewery aquari u m , fish hatchery , zoo.
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a re n o w s e l f - gove r n i n g ce nters of t r i b a l l i fe a n d i n d u st ry q u ite d i fferent from the heav i l y s u pervi s e d c a m p s of a c e n t u ry a g o . M a n y t r i bes m a n age soi l a n d water con servation . They run coopera t i ve a n d c i v i c p rojects . Visit t h o s e i n a n d c l os e to the R oc ky M o u n ta i n a rea to see t h e p rogress m a d e a n d the problems sti l l a head . I nd i ans of today a re f a r m e r s , cattle m e n , a n d workers in many t r a d e s . Lea t h e r a n d beadJames R. s;man W O r k a re Of ten f O r S a l e in Crow women i n costum e before a tipi com m u n ity c raft shops. Look for those bea r i n g the seal of t h e I n d i a n A rts a n d Crafts G u i l d . See a l so t h e I n d i a n m u s e u m s , s h ow i n g l i fe i n the R o c k i e s a n d adjoi n i ng H i gh Pla i n s before a n d d u r i ng the period of exploration and settlement. I N D I A N R ES E R V AT I O N S
Colorado: S o . Ute R e s . a n d U t e Mountain R e s . ( U te), s o u t h of o u r a rea. Idaho: Fort Hall I n d i a n Res. (Shosho n i , B a n nock) ( H e a d q u a rters: Fort Hall, N . of Pocatel l o , Rt. 9 1 . ), K utenai Res. ( K u tenai). Montana: B l a c kfoot Agency & Res. ( B l a c kfoot) , Rt. 2 , E . of B rowning; Flathead I n dian Res. ( Flathead, Salish, K u tenai), N . of Missou l a ; Crow Agency & Res. (Crow C h eyenne), Rt. 8 7 ; R ocky Boy's Agency Res. (Cree, Chippewa), S. of H avre; Fort Belknap Res. (Assi n i boi n , Atsina), S. of R t . 2 ; Fort P e c k Agency & R e s . (Assi n i b o i n , S i o u x) , N . of R t . 2 . Utah: U i ntah and O u ray R e s . ( Utes), S. of o u r a rea. Wyom ing: W i n d R iver Agency & Res. (Ara paho, Shoshoni), Rt. 287, N . of Lander. Alberta: Blood and Pi egan Agency ( B l ood and Piegan); Stony Sarcee Agency (Assi n i boin); Black foot Agency ( B l ackfoot); Sa rcee Reserve (Sa rsi).
1 50
H I ST O R I CA L S I T ES i n this regi o n a re m a i n l y of loca l i m portance. Forts and trad· i ng posts were esta b l i s h ed d u ri n g t h e f i rst h a l f of the 1 8 0 0 ' s . T h e n i n t h e sec o n d h a l f of t h e c e n t u ry c a m e gol d r u s h e s , m i n i ng c a m p s a n d boom town s. R e c e nt l y o l d to w n s h ave b e e n revived a n d re b u i lt; f o rt s h a ve b e e n restored o r r e p l i c a s c o n st r u cted. S e e t h e s e l a n d m a r k s of t h e n ot- s o- d i st a n t past. M a n y i n c l u d e m u se u ms a n d ex h i b i t s . See t h ose l i sted on p . 48 .
State of Colorado
The restored Central C ity Opera H o u s e
Colorado: Aspen, silver mining town revived ; Central City, restored, famous Teller a n d opera houses; Colo. Springs, Pioneer Mus., h i storical col i . ; Cripple Creek, m i n i n g town; Denver, Colo. State H i st. M u s . ; Fort Garland, Kit Carson ' s a d obe fort; Georgetown, s i l ver m i n i n g , H a m i l l H s e . ; Greeley, Meeker M e m . M u s . ; Leadville, silver b o n a n z a town , Healy H s e . , M a t c h l e s s C a b i n ; Pueblo, El Pueblo H i st. M u s . ; Sterling, Overl a n d Tra i l M u s . ; Trinidad, Old
Baca H o u se . Idaho: Cata l d o M i ssion, built 1 84 2 , off U S 10, w . of K e l l ogg; Ft. Hall, tra d i n g a n d m i l i tary post on S n a k e R iv e r west of present city. Montana: Bannock State Mon . , former territorial capita l , 25 mi. w. of D i l lon, B i g Hole Battlef i e l d Nat. M o n . , 12 mi. w . of Wisdom, Rt. 43; Billings, Ye l lowstone Co. Hi st. M u s . ; Crow Agency, C u ster Battlefi eld Nat. Mon . , m u s . , U S 87, Owen State M o n . , first settlement, off US 93, St. Mary's M i ssion nearby; Helena, Mont. State H i st . M u s . ; Virginia City, former territori a l capita l , m u s . , Rt. 34. Utah: Provo, Pioneer Mem. B l d g . , exhi bit; Salt Lake City, Pioneer Mem. B l d g . , Main St. , Pioneer V i l lage M u s . , Conner St. , Uta h H i st. Soc . , Tem p l e St. Wyoming: Cody, Buffalo B i l l H i st. Center and M u s . ; Ft. Bridger, south of U S 30S, original fort and army base, mus.; Ft. Casper, replica of old fort, mus., near Casper, Ft. Laramie Nat. M on . , mus., 3 m i . s. of Ft. Laramie, Rt. 26, I n d ependence Rock, fa med " register of the desert , " Rt. 220, 50 mi. w. of Casper; Lander, grave of Sacaj awea , n.w. off Rt. 287; Laramie, U. of Wyo. , State h i storical col lections a nd archives.
151
F OSSILS a b o u n d i n t h i s , one of t h e worl d ' s r i c h est fossil a re a s . H owever, don't expect to f i n d d i nosa u rs lying a long t h e roa d s i d e . Good fossi l s of vertebrates a re h a rd to find, d i ff i c u l t to extract a n d costly to p repa re and m o u n t . With l u c k one may f i n d a n occa s i o n a l tooth or bone. Watch for i n vertebrate and plant fossi l s , too. V i s i t loca l m u seums ( p . 1 48). Try " rockho u n d " shops. M a ke l oca l i n q u i ries be fore h u nt i n g fossi l s . Deposits may be off paved roads a nd h a rd to l ocate without specific d i recti o n s . C h e c k a l so for loca l g u i d e boo ks covering geol ogy a n d m i n era l locations. Best p l a c e s for fossi l s a re not in the R o c k i e s pro per but in " pa r ks , " foot h i l l s and adjoi n i ng H i g h P l a i n s w h e re up t u rned or u n d i stu rbed sed i m ents a re exposed . W H E R E TO LOOK
Colorado: Eastern foot h i l l s , good coll ecti n g the entire lengt h ; Canon City, d i nosa u r s and early f i s h ; DeBeque ( D ev i l ' s Playgro u n d ) , d i nosa u rs ; Morrison, d i nosa u r s and i nvertebrates; Florissant, fossil f i s h , many fossil pla nts and i n sects; Pawnee Buttes, fossi l m a m m a l s i n c l u d i ng horses and camels; N . W. a n d N . E . Colo .. many fossil m a m m a l s - r h i noceros, m a m moth, titanothere, saber toothed cat; good fossil exhi bits at Golden (School of M i nes). Boulder, Univ. of Colo. M u s . , and Denver ( M u s . of Nat. H i st.). Idaho: Petr ified Forest (Seq uoias)
in M a i m G u l c h near Challis. Montana: Near Harlowton, east of H e l e n a , large fossil beds with d i nosa u r s , ma m m a l s, t u rtle s , l i z a r d s , crocod i l e s , b i r d s , pl ants; near Conrad, 7 0 m i l e s north of Great Falls, many marine foss i l s i n shale of Marias River tributa ry ; d i nosa u r beds east of Anaconda. Utah: See Dinosaur Q u a rry in D i n o sa u r Nat. Mon., exhi bits of d i n osa u r bones i n position; Mount Timpanogos, m a r i n e a n i mals a n d plants in l i mestone; south west of Wasatch, p l a nt fos s i l s in cl iffs; Price, din o s aurs a n d titanotheres; Logan, seaweed; Salt Lake City, dinosaurs and other foss i l s on e x h i bit at U n i versity of Utah Geology M u se u m ; Vernal, o u tdoor life-size d i nosa u r repl i c a , field m u se u m . Wyoming: Como Bl uff west of Laramie, site of fi rst Rocky Mountain dinosaur finds, many early mammals, and nearby "Creation M u s e u m " conta i n s many fossils; Pol ecat B e n c h north of Cody, fossil crocod i l e s and t u rtles; Kemmerer, one of greatest fo s s i l f i s h beds i n worl d , toget h e r with fossil a l l i gators, birds, plants; north of L usk, l i mesto n e fossil beds conta i n i n g some of best American Trice ratops d i nosa u r r e m a i n s ; B l a c k H i l l s , g i a n t cycads ( d e p l eted), m a r i n e fossi l - bearing sha les at Belle Fouche. Al berta: Rich dinosa u r bed s-many localities for smaller foss i l s ; Calgary, d i nosa u r gard e n s with re plicas. British Col u m bia: Field, Bur gess shale deposits conta i n i n g many early Cambrian marine fossi l s i n c l uding seaweed s, sponges, worms.
1 52
Bob and Ira Spring
S m e lter near Kellogg, Idaho-Coeur d'Alene m i n i n g district
m a d e t h e Rockies f a m o u s . M i n· i n g i s sti l l b i g b u s i ness w i t h a tota l prod u ct i o n today greater t h a n i n the bonanza days of t h e l ate 1 80 0 ' s . Be· s i d e s gol d a n d s i l ve r , the reg i o n is r i c h in m o l y bd e n u m , va n a d i u m , a n ti mony, lead , z i n c , copper a n d g e m stones. Some operati ng m i nes are open to v i si tors and g u i ded tours have been set u p i n a b a ndoned m i nes. V i sitors can pan for gold loca l ly-good exerc i se . Check l oca l g u i des on l oca l ities for m i neral a n d gem col l ecti ng - t h ey a re l egi on. Some l a rger m i n i ng a reas a re l i sted below.
ROCKS AND M INERALS
Colorado: Climax, molybd e n u m ; Gilman, l e a d a n d z i n c ; Idaho Springs-Central City a rea a n d many others. Idaho: Kellogg, heart of Coeur d ' Alene m i n i n g di strict (lead, si lver, gold and zinc); Bunker Hill, lead a n d silver; Montpelier area, phosphate deposits; Wallace, lead-si lver. M ontana: Anaconda, copper ( Washoe S melter); Butte, gol d , silver, copper and zinc; Helena, gold , si lver and l ea d . Utah: Bingham Canyon, na rrowest city i n t h e world, has largest open-cut copper mine i n the U . S . Wyoming: Greybull, bentonite; Kemmerer, coa l ; Rock Springs, bitu minous coa l ; Gillette, great strip coal mine. British Columbia: Kimberley, summer to u rs t h rough lead-zinc mine; Trail, l a rge lead-zinc p l a n t . A l s o w i d e s p read but s m a l l d e posits of gol d , silver, copper tin , cad m i u m , antimony and bismuth.
1 53
Bob and Ira Spring
The Rockies offer m a g n i ficent views for the photogra pher-Boulder Peak, Glacier National Park
PHOTOGRAPHY in the Rockies can be d i sconcert i n g until v i s i tors le a r n t h ey tend to overexpose t h e i r p i ct u res here. The h igher one goes , the greater the l ight i nten sity. U n l ess yo u r ca m e ra is a utomat i c , or eq u i pped with a l ight meter, c l ose the s h utter one stop more t h a n w h a t yo u wo u l d u se for n o r m a l p h otogra p h s b a c k h o m e . Snow cover c a l l s for red u ced expos u re. S u m m e r pictu re-ta k i n g t i m e is best in t h e morn i ng beca u se of pos s i b l e afte rnoon s h owers. Bad weat h e r s e l d o m l a sts a n d t h e p a t i e n t p h otogra p h e r w i l l u s u a l l y g e t h i s pict u re . G o o d l a ke ref l e ct i o n s h a v e to be ca u ght early or l ate beca use of dayt i m e b reezes . Color p h otography i s best i n t h e R oc k i e s , b u t avoid strong l i g h t and s h a dow. Close - u p l e n ses or extension t u bes a re esse n t i a l for w i l d flower o r ot h e r d eta i l . A tele p h oto l e n s i s h e l pf u ! for b i rd s , a n i m a l s a n d i n getti ng d eta i l s of mounta i n scenery. W i l d l ife p h otography ta kes p atienc e . Don ' t entice bears with food . I t ca n be d a n ger o u s . U se a ye l l ow o r red f i lter w i t h b l a c k a n d w h ite f i l m t o give y o u contrast.
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h ave beco m e a feat u re of the R o c k i e s , not only in the big cities, b u t a l so in the s m a l l er m i n i ng tow n s w h i c h h ave been revived a s centers of win ter s po rt and s u m me r recreati o n . Pagea nts, con certs, festi va l s a n d pl ays, i nc l u d i ng o l d -fa s h i o n ed m el od ra mas, m a ke up the s u m mer progra m s . A s pe n , Col or ado, i s the o l d est a n d most famous of th ese centers with a m u sic and c u l t u r a l progra m that has been goi n g o n for n e a rly twe nty yea rs . I nternati o n a l a rt i sts pa rt i c i pate j u st as they d i d i n the boom days of the ' 9 0 ' s . Check l oca l ly for sched u l e s . M a ny c o l l eges have s u m m er cou rses in natu ral sci ences with field work and week-end progra m s . Write them for cata logs. C U LT U RAL ACT I V I T I ES
Colorado: Aspen, I n stitute f o r H u m a n i stic St u d i e s , s u m me r festiva l s , l ectures, m u sic and s e m i n a rs . Boulder, U . of Colorado s u m m e r d r a m a , concerts and lectures. Canon City, music blossom festival i n May. Central City, s u m me r performances at fa mous opera house d u ri n g J u ly. Colorado Springs, Garden of the Gods, s u m m e r concerts, Broadmoor I nternational Center. Cripple Creek, old-time melodramas in s u m mer. Denver, summer opera at Cheesman Park, concerts at Red Rock Park, s u m m e r theater at E l itch ' s G a r d e n s . L a Junta, Koshare I n d i a n kiva and dances. Montana: Virginia City, su mmer playh o u se , 1 9th centu ry d ra m a . Utah: Salt L a k e City, Mormon Tabernacle Choir. Wyoming: Summer pageants of the West at Lander, Lusk and Daniel.
Concerts are held in the h u g e M u s i c Tent in Aspen Don Knight Photos
a re possi ble every m o n t h of t h e yea r i n the snow- cl ad Rockies, but t h e " s e a s o n " u s u a l l y ex t e n d s f r o m D e c e m b e r to M a y . S k i i n g is t h e top s port b u t la kes a n d rinks a re ava i l a b l e f o r i ce - s kati n g . Snow s h o e i n g , b o b s l e d d i n g and to bogga n i n g a re d o n e a l so. Ski tows a re in operation at over a h u n d red s i tes from Union Pocific Roilrood S u n Va l l ey , I d a h o , famous Atop Dollor Mountain, S u n Valley, Idaho wi nter S p o rts a re a , where t h e r e a re severa l , to s m a l l , loca l l ifts. A s p e n , Colorado, a very m u c h rej u v e n ated g h ost tow n , h a s good ski slopes i n c l u d i ng fou r- m i l e Roch R u n , one of the worl d ' s most d iffic u l t Its 1 4,000-foot l ift, r i s i ng 3 , 400 feet up Aj ax M o u nta i n , is one of t h e l ongest i n t h e worl d . WINT ER SPORTS
OTHER R OCKY MOU NTAI N WINTER SPORTS AR EAS INCLUDE: Colorado: Arapa h oe B a si n , Bert h o u d Pass, Breckenridge, Broa d moor (closest
to the P l a i n s , a ugmented by a rtifi cial snow), Cooper H i l l (Lea d v i l le), Crested B u tte, Guenella Pass, H i dden Va l l ey, Loveland B a s i n , Mesa Lakes (Grand Mesa), Monarch Pass, Pi kes Pea k , Pioneer ( G u n n i son), Red Mountain (Glen wood Spri ngs), Redstone, Steam boat Spri ngs, Wi nter Park. Idaho: Island Park region, Magic Mounta i n (Twin Fa l l s) , Payette Forest (McCa ll), Pend Orei l l e region. Montana: B i g M o u n ta i n (Whitef i s h ) , Bozeman reg i o n , B utte regi o n , K a l i s pell reg i on , Red Lodge. Utah: Alta , Beaver M o u nta i n (logan), Brighton , Snow Basin (Ogden). Wyoming: Bighorn National Forest, C a s per Mou nta i n Park, Snow King Moun· tain (J ackson), Snowy Ra nge (Laramie). Alberta: B a nff (Mount Norquay, Sunshine Lodge, Mount Temple Chalet , Mount Skoki Lodge), J a sper (Whistlers Mountain). British Columbia: Mount Revel stoke, Red Mounta i n (Trai l ) .
1 56
I N DEX
Asterisks ( * ) denote p a g e s on w h i c h the subjects a re i l lustrated. Aconite, 67* Agate: banded, 5 8 * moss, 5 8 * Alabaster, 5 3 * Alder, t h i n leaf, 7 9 * Amozon ite, 5 8 * Amethyst, 5 8 * Ammonites, 5 9 * Amphibians, 1 1 2 * Anaconda, 1 7 Anima ls, 8 7 * -96* Antelope, brush, 8 2 * Arapaho I n d i a ns, 3 0 , 1 50
Arkose, 5 3 * Arnica, h e o rtleaf, 7 1 * Ash, mountain, 7 5 * Aspen, 1 55 * , 1 56 Aspen, quaking, 8 0 * Assiniboin I ndia ns, 30, 1 50
Assiniboine, Mt., 1 26 Astraspis, 59* Athabaska, MI., 49* Atsina I n d i a n s, 30 Avens, a l pine, 62 * Azu rite, 56* Badger, 94* Badlands Nat. Mon., 1 33 Balsam root, 69* Ba nff Nat. Park, 1 8, 1 26 * Ban nock I nd ia n s, 26-27, 1 50 Basa lt, 5 2 * Bearo b l ack, 8 9 * , 1 1 9 * ' g rizzly, 8 9 * Bearg rass, 66* Bear River Refuge, 1 36 * ·Beaver, 9 2 * B e e pla nt, R o c k y M t . , 7 2 * Bergen Park, 1 38 Big Hole Battlefield, 1 3 1 Bighorns, 8 8 * B i l l i ngs, 1 7 Birch: paper, 8 0 * water, 7 4 * Birds, 97*-1 0 7 * , 1 36 *
Bison, 96 * , 1 47 * Bitterbrush, 82 •
Bitterroot, pygmy, 63* Blackbird, Brewer's, 1 06 * B l a c k Canyon, 1 30 * Blackfoot I n d i a ns, 28·2 9 * , 1 2 3, 1 50 Black H i l ls, 1 32 * - 1 3 3 � Bluebird: mountain, 1 06 * weste rn, 1 0 6 * Bobcat, 90* Boulder, 1 6 Boulder Peak, 1 54 * Bozeman, 1 7 Bracken, western, 85 * Breccia, 53 Brontosa u rus, 60* Buffa lo, 96* Buffa lo berry, 8 1 * Buffa lo B i l l , 1 38, 1 5 1 Bunting, l a zu l i, 1 07* Butte, 1 6 Butterf lies, 1 1 3 * - 1 1 5 * C a l e n d a r of events, 22 C a l g a ry, 1 8 Ca lypso, 7 1 * C a l yptra, 86* Camping, 1 9 * , 1 4 1 * C a n a d i a n pa rks, 1 25-1 2 8 * Ca rnotite, 5 7 * Carson, Kit,' 37, 1 5 1 Casper, 1 7 Castle Geyser, 5 1 * Cedar, white, 7 8 * Centra l City, 1 5 1 * C h a l cocite, 56* Cheyenne, 1 7 Cheyenne I n d i ans, 30, 1 3 1 , 1 50 Chickadee, mountain, 1 00* Chickaree, 9 2 * C h i p m u n k, least, 95* Chokecherry, 8 1 * C i n quefoil, shru bby, 75 * Cirque, 5 0 *
C l e matis, weste rn, 7 1 * C l i m ate, 1 0 C ce u r d'Alene, 1 5 3 * Colorado N a t . M o n . , 1 30 * Colo. R a i l road Museum, 1 48 * C o l o rado Springs, 6 * , 1 6, 1 39 * C o l u m b i a lcefteld, 49* -50 * , 1 26, 1 27, 1 2 8 * C o l u m bine, Colorado, 6 6 * Concerts, 1 55 * C o n g l omerate, 5 3 * Con ifers, 7 3 * , 76 * ¥78 * Continenta l Divide, 7, 1 9 * , 1 22 Cony, 8 8 * Cotto nwood, n a rrowleaf, 79* Coyote, 96* C ross b i l l , red, 1 0 2 * C row I n d i a ns, 3 0 , 1 50 * C u lt u r a l activities, 1 55 C u rrant, squaw, 8 2 * C u ster Battlefield, 1 3 1 Da isy, s u b a l pine, 65* Deer, m u le, 9 2 * Denver, 1 5 * , 1 6, 1 3 8 * · 1 39; 1 49 * Devil's Tower Nat. Mon., 1 33 Dinosa u r Not. Mon., 1 29 * Dinosau rs, 4 4 , 6 0 * , 1 29 * Diplodocus, 6 0 * Dipper, 1 0 5 * Dogwood, red¥osier, 8 2 * Dream Lake, 1 2 1 * Dryas, mountain, 74* Elbert, Mt., 5, 1 42 Elder, red berried, 8 4 * Elk, 9 3 * Evans, M t . , 1 39 Eve n i n g sta r, m a n y· flowered, 70*
1 57
Explorers, 3 4 * -37 Fairy sli pper, 7 1 * F a l l River Pass, 1 20 Farming, 8-9* Feldspa rs, 57* Fern' b rittle, 85* pa rsley, 86* Finch: brown-capped rosy, 98* Cassin's, 1 0 1 * Fi" Douglas, 1 2, 77* g ra n d , 77* subalpine, 73* F i reweed, 67* F i re-whee l , 69* Fishes, 1 08 * - 1 0 9 * Fishing, 1 08, 1 46 * Flathead I ndia ns, 2 8-29, 1 50 Flax, b l ue, 68* F l icker, red-shafted, 1 03 * F lowers, 6 2 * -72 * F l uo rite, 57* Flycatcher, weste rn, 9 9 * Forget-me-not, a l pine, 6 3 * F o r t C o l l i ns, 1 6 Forts, 1 5 1 Fossils, 5 9 * -60 * , 1 52 Fox, red, 90* Fremont, 37 Frog, leopard, 1 1 2 * swa m p chorus, 1 1 2 * Front Range, 4 3 * Gabbro, 52 G a i l l a rd ia, 69* G a l e n a , 56" G a l latin Nat. Forest, 1 34 * Ga rden of the Gods, 1 39 * Gardens, 1 49 Gems, 5 8 * Genti a n : a rctic, 6 3 * Rocky Mt. fringed, 7 2 * Geology, 4 3 * -60* Geysers, 5 1 * , 1 1 8- 1 1 9 * Ghost towns, 1 43 * G i l ia , scarlet, 6 8 *
1 58
G lacier Nat. Park, 1 3 * , 1 7, 5 0 * , 78, 85, 1 22 * 1 23, 1 40 * , 1 46 * , 1 54* G laci e r Nat. Park (Canada), 1 28
Idaho F a l l s, 1 7 I g neous rocks, 5 2 * · I n d i a n paintbrush, 70*
Glaciers, 49*-50 * , 1 201 25, 1 26 * , 1 27
I n d ians, 2 3 * -3 3 * I n d i a n : cloth i n g , orna-
G lobeflower, 66* Globemal low, sca rlet, 72* Gneiss, 54* Goat, mountain, 88*, 1 2 2 * Gold, 56* Gold Rush, 38-39 Gooseberries, 82 Gopher, northern pocket,
ments, d ecorations, 3 1 , 3 2 * -3 3 * history, 23-30 map, 24-25 reservations, 1 50 * I nformation, sources of, 1 4, 43, 6 1 , 87, 97 I noceramus, 5 9 * I n sects, 1 1 3 * - 1 1 5 *
88*
H u nting, 87, 1 47
G r a n d J u nction, 1 6 Grand Teton Nat. Park, 1 24 * , 1 42 Gran ite, 5 2 * Grayling, Monta na, 1 0 9 * G r e a t Fal ls, 1 6 Greeley, 1 6 Green River, 37* Grinnell G l acier, 1 22 * Grosbeak, black-headed, 1 07* eve n i n g , 1 07* pine, 1 0 1 * Gras Ventre I n d i a ns, 3 6 * Grouse, 9 8 * b l ue, 99* Gypsum, 53*, 57* H a re, snowshoe, 9 3 * H a r e b e l l , mounta i n , 7 1 * Hawthorn, black, 80* Helena, 1 6, 3 9 * Hem lock, weste rn, 7 8 * H i k i n g , 1 3, 1 40 * H i storica l , sig hts, 1 5 1 timeta b le, 42 H i story, 2 3 * -42 * Hol lygrape, Oregon, 84 * ; Homestake Mine, 1 3 3 Hot sp ; i n g s, 1 37, 1 45 * H u c k l eberry, broom, 8 4 * H u mm i n g b i rd, b roadtailed, 1 03 *
Jack rabbit, white-ta i led,
94* J a c kson Hole W i ld l ife Refuge, 1 24 J asper, 5 8 * J a sper N a t . P a r k , 1 8, 4 9 * , 1 27- 1 2 8 * I Jay, g ray, 99* Ste l ler's, 1 04 * J ewel Cave N a t. Mon., 1 3< J u nco, g ray-headed, 1 n • J u n i per: dwa rf, 77* Rocky Mt., 77* Kalispell, 1 7 K i lldeer, 1 0 0 * Kimberly, 1 8 Kingfisher, belted, 1 03 * K i n g l et, ruby-crowned, 101 * King's crown, 6 2 * Kootenay N a t . P a r k , 1 2 8 Kute n a i I n d i a ns, 29, 1 50 Laclede, 3 5 L a k e Louise, 1 26 * Lakes, 1 44 * Laramie, 1 7 Larch, a l pine, 7 3 * western, 78 * lark, horned, 98 * larkspur, s u b a l pine, 67*
l a u re l , dwarf mt., 7 5 * leadvi l l e, 1 43 *
Monument pla nt, 66*
Lethbridge, 1 8
Moose, 96* Mora ine, 5 0 *
lewis a n d C l a rk, 26, 36
Mormons, 38-39
lewis and C l a r k Cavern Stale Park, 1 37 * lichens, 8 5 * -8 6 *
Mormon Temple, 1 8 * Moss campion, 62 * Moss: h a i rycap, 8 6 * spike, 86* Mounta i n : b u i l d ing,46 * -48 * climbing, 1 24, 1 42 * Mounta i n lover, 8 2 * Mouse, deer, 9 3 *
l i f e zones, 1 1 * - 1 2 lily: ava lanche, 6 3 * mariposa, 7 1 * limestone, 5 3 * lion, mountain, 9 1 * livingston, 1 7 lizard: fence, 1 1 0 * short-horned, 1 1 0 * locoweed, Rocky Mt., 70* logan, 1 7 longs Peak, 1 20 * , 1 2 1 , 1 42 * lupine, mountain, 7 0 * M a g p i e , black-bil led, 1 0 3 * Ma l a c h ite, 5 6 * Mamma ls, 8 7 * -96* Mammoth Hot Springs, 1 1 9, 1 45 * Maple, Rocky Mt., 7 5 * Maps: C a n a d i a n pa rks, 1 25 h i storica l, 24-25, 3 4 mineral, 55
Mud pol, 1 1 9 * . Mudstone, 5 3 * Museu ms, 1 48 * Muskrat, 9 5 * National Bison Range, 1 47 * Forests, 1 34 * Parks a n d Monuments, 1 1 6*-1 3 1 * Wild life Refuges, 1 36 * Needles Hig hway, 1 32 , 1 33 * Nelson, 1 8 Nez Perce I n d ians, 1 3 1 N i neba rk, 8 1 * N u tcracker, C l a rk's, 1 00* Nuthatch, pygmy, 1 05 *
modern, 4-5 Monume nts, 1 1 7 Pa rks, 1 1 7 touring, 20 Marble, 54* Marigold, wh ite ma rsh, 64 * Ma rmot: hoa ry, 8 7 * yel low-be l lied, 87, 9 1 * Ma rten, 8 9 * Meta morphic rocks, 5 4 * M i c a schist, 54* Minerals, 55-58 * , 1 53 Miner's cand le, 70* Mining, 3 8-39, 1 5 3 * Mink, 8 9 * Missoula, 1 7 Molybden ite, 5 7 * Mon keyflower, yel low, 67* Monkshood, 67*
Oak, G a m bel, 79* Obsid ian, 5 2 * Ogden, 1 7 Old Faithful, 1 1 8, 1 1 9 * Creodonts, 5 9 * O res, 5 6 * -57* Otter, river, 90*
P i n e : bristlecone, 1 2, 76 * l i m ber, 7 3 * lodge pole, 76 * ponderosa , 76 * western white, 76* western yel low, 76 * Pipit, water, 9 8 * P i u t e I n d i a ns, 2 3 * , 26-27 P l a i n s I n d i a n s, 30-3 1 * P l a n ts, 61 *-86* non-flowe ring, 8 5 * -8 6 * Plover, 1 0 0 * Pocate l lo, 1 7 Popla r, ba lsam, 79* Porc u pine, 9 3 * Prairie d o g , white-tai led, 95* Prim rose, parry, 65* Pronghorn, 96* Provo, 1 7 Pta rmigan, white-ta iled 98* Pueblo, 1 6 Puma, 9 1 * Pumice, 5 2 * Purple fringe, 6 4 * Pyrite, 57* Pyro l a , 64* Qua rtz, 58* Q u a rtzite, 54
Paintbrush, rosY , 67* Pea, golden, 68 * Pegmatite, 5 2 * P e l i c a n , white, 97 * , 1 1 9 Penstemon, ta ll, 7 2 * Ph lox, a l pine, 6 1 * Photog raphy, 1 54
Rabbit brush, 69* Racer, 1 1 1 * Ragwort, western golden, 66* Rail roads, 4 0 * - 4 1 * Ra infa l l, 1 0 R a n c h i n g , 6, 7 * , 8 Rat, b u shy-ta i led wood, 92 * Rattlesnake, western, 1 1 1 * Red elephant, 6 5 * R e d R o c k s Theater, 1 38 Repti les, 1 1 0 * - 1 1 1 * Revelstoke, 1 8
Phyll ite, 54 Pika, 8 8 * Pikes Peak, 1 6; 3 6 , 1 39 *
Reve lstoke, MI., Nat. Park, 1 8, 1 2 8 Rhyol ite, 52
1 59
Rivers, 1 44 Riverside Geyser, 5 1 * Rock brake, 86* Rocks, 5 2 * -5 4 * , 1 5 3 Rocky Mt. Nat. Park, 79, as; 1 20 * - 1 2 1 * Rushmore, Mt., 1 32 * Sacajawea, 26, 36, 1 5 1 Sagebrush, 8 3 * S t . louis, 35 Salama nder, tiger, 1 1 2 * Salt lake City, 1 7, 1 8 * , 3 8 *
p
Sphalerite, 56* Sports, winter, 1 56 * Springs, 1 45 Spruce' b l ue, 78 • Engelmann, 7 3 * Squawbush, 8 1 * Sq uawfish, 1 09* Squirrel, golden man tled ground, 9 1 * pine, 9 2 * Richa rdson's g round, 9 1 * 1 3-lined ground, 94* tuft-eared, 9 5 *
Sandpi er, spotted, 1 0 1 *
State pa rks, 1 37*
Sandstone, 6 * , 5 3 * Sapsucker, W i l l i a mSon 's,
Stegosa u rus, 60* Strawbe rry b l ite, 68* Sucker, northern, 1 09 * S u l p h u r flower, 6 8 * S u n Dance, 3 1 * Sunflower, a l pine, 62 * Sun Va l l ey, 1 56 * Swa l low, violet-g reen, 1 0 4 * Swa n, trUmpeter, 97 * , 1 1 8 *
99* Sawtooth W i l dernes� Area, 1 35 * Schist, 54* Scoria, 52* Sed imenta ry rocks, 53* Sediments, 4 3 * S e l k i r k Mts., 1 28 Serviceberry, 8 3 * Settlement, 38-4 1 Seven Devils Range, 1 1 * Shale, 53 Sheep, mountain, 8 8 * Shooti ngsta rs, 69* Shosh o n i I n d ia ns, 26-2 7 * 1 50 Shru bs, 74 * -75 * , 8 1 *-84* Silver, 56* Sioux I n d ia n s, 30, 1 3 1 , 1 50 Siskin, pine, 1 03 * S k i i n g , 1 56 Skink, weste rn, 1 1 0 * Skunk, stri ped, 9 4 * Skun kbush, 8 1 * Sky pi lot, 61 • Sky-rocket, 68 • Slate, 54* Snake, gopher, 1 1 1 * western g a rter, 1 1 1 * Snowberry, 8 3 * Snow·t. •"-the·mountain, 7 2 * Spa rrow: Lincol n's; 1 02 * wh ite·crowned, 1 02 *
1 60
Swift, wh ite-th roated, 1 04 • Ta l l c h i m i n g bells, 6 5 * Tamarack, 7 3 * Tanager, western, 1 0 6 * Temperatu re, 1 0 T etons, 46 • -47 * Thimbleberry, 8 3 * Thrush, hermit, 1 0 0 * Townsend's solita i re, 1 00 * Timpanogos Cave, 1 30 * Too& spadefoot, 1 1 2 * western, 1 1 2 * Touring, 1 3, 1 9-2 1 Towhee: g ree n-ta i led, 1 02 * rufous·sided, 1 07* T rade rs, 34*-37* Trail, 1 8 Trans·Canada H i g h way,
Tyra n nosa u rus, 60* U . S. Air Force Academy, 1 6 * , 1 39 Ute I n d i a ns, 26-27, 1 50 verendrye, 3 5 * Volcanic action, 5 1 * , 1 1 8- 1 1 9 * W a l lflowe r, western, 69* Wapiti, 9 3 * W a r b l e " Audu bon's, 1 0 1 * MacG i l l ivray's, 1 06 * Waterton-Gi a c i e r I nter nation a l Peace Pork, 1 8, 1 22 * - 1 2 3 * Weasel, long-to i led, 9 0 * Wh itefish, Rocky M t . , 1 0 9 * Whortlebe rries, 84 • W i l d e rness Areas, 1 35 * W i l low: creeping, 74* peoch leof, so· Wi nter sports, 1 56 Woodpecker, lewis, 1 04 • Wren: canon, 1 0 5 * rock, 1 05* Yel lowstone Nat. Park, 1 7, 20-2 1 , 5 1 * , 79, 1 1 8 * - 1 1 9 * , 1 45 Yoho Not. Pork, 1 2 8 Zoos, 1 49 *
1 26 Trees, 73*-80* T rout, 1 08 * T u rtle, pointed, 1 1 0 * Twinbe rries, 74* Twinflower, 64* J K l M N
THE ROCKY MO UNTAINS A GOLDEN GUIDE
®
H E R B E RT S. Z I M, P h . D ., Sc.D., initiated the Colden G u ide Series and was both author and editor for many years. Author of some n i nety books and editor of about as many, he is now Adj unct Professor at the U n iver sity of Miami and Educational Consultant to the American
Friends Service Comm ittee
a n d o t h e r o r g a n i z at i o n s .
He works o n
education, popu lation and environmental p roblems. S U ZAN N O G U C H I SWA I N has i l l u strated many scientific books and articles, includ ing titles publ ished by the American Mu seum of Natu ral H istory and the Audubon Society. She is a l ife member of the N ew York Entomological Society and the John B u rroughs Society, a major conservation o r gan ization. Most of her drawing is done from l ife models.
GOLDEN PRESS
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NEW YORK
