DESIGN SPECIFICATION SHEET SCAP
BIPUL VIKRANT PRIYANSHU UNIYAL SUKHMANI CHANDI B.F.TECH- IV 0 | Page
CHECK LIST S.No.
INDEX
Page No. 2
1
Garment Image – Front & Back
2
Technical sketch of Garment – Front & Back (with POM)
3
3
Fabric Constituent & Garment Components
4
4
Measurement Details
5
5
Construction Details
6
6
Operation Breakdown
7
7
Trims Detail
8
8
Marker & Spreading Mode
8
9
Garment Zoning & Inspection
9-10
10
Cut Order Planning
11-14
11
Costing
15-16
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Actual Garment Image – Front & Back
1 | Page
FRON
BAC
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Technical sketch of Garment – Front & Back (with POM)
2 | Page
FRON BAC T
3 | Page
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Description
Fabric Constituent Items Lace Fabric
100% Cotton Cotton and Rayon blend with nap in print
Garment Components Component Front with unidirectional print Back with unidirectional print Front upper yoke Back upper right yoke Back upper left yoke Sleeves Company name tag Size tag Wash care tag inside seam
4 | Page
1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1
No. of pieces
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Measurement Details-FRONT POM
Component
TOL -
TOL +
Body Length¿ HSP
Desired Measureme nt** 24.5
1
-1/2
1/2
3
Front yoke height at center front
3.5
-1/8
1/8
5*
Chest circumference 1 below armhole
19.5
-1/2
1/2
6*
Waist circumference
20
-1/2
1/2
7
Waist point ¿ HPS
17
0
0
8*
Bottom Circumference
22
-1/2
1/2
10
Across front at 5.5 below HPS
13.5
-1/4
1/4
12
Shoulder seam forward
0
0
0
13*
Shoulder slope
1
-1/4
1/4
14
Neck width¿ HPS ¿ HPS
9
-1/4
1/4
15
Neck circumference ¿ CF ¿CF
23
-1/4
1/4
16
Neck drop¿ HPS
5.5
-1/8
1/8
18* 19* 20*
Sleeve length from shoulder Sleeve width on sleeve end Sleeve width on arm-top (4” below)
16 5 6.5
-1/8 -1/4 -1/4
1/8 1/4 1/4
TOL -
TOL +
-1/2
1/2
-1/8
1/8
''
Measurement Details-Back POM
Component
2
Body Length ¿ HSP
Desired Measureme nt** 24.5
4
Yoke height at center back
5.5
5 | Page
9
Across shoulder
14
-1/4
1/4
11
Across back below HSP at 6
15
-1/4
1/4
17
Neck drop from HSP
13
-1/8
1/8
* Measurements for the back is same as the front measurements. ** All the measurements are in inches.
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Con stru ctio n Det ails
Descripti on
Sl. 1 Front & back fabric gathering 2 Lace fabric attached as yoke to front panel 3 Right and left back yoke attached to 6 | Page
Needle
Seam
Stitch
US 4 (3.5mm) circular
SPI
301 T/S
10
Others
SAM (min.)
Gatherin g foot
1.75
US 5 (3.75mm)circu lar
superimpos ed
301, 504 3T O/L
10
0.8
US 5 (3.75mm)circu lar
superimpos ed
301, 504 3T O/L
10
1.97
4
back panel Shoulder attachment
5
Sleeve attachment
6
Side seam attachment
7
Wash care attachment to left side panel By self-fabric neck finishing
8
9
1 0
Label (brand & size) attachment to neck Bottom hemming is done
US 5 (3.75mm)circu lar US 5 (3.75mm)circu lar US 4 (3.5mm) circular
superimpos ed
301, 504 3T O/L 301, 504 3T O/L 301, 504 3T O/L 301
10
0.6
9
0.86
10
1.03
10
0.8
US 5 (3.75mm)circu lar US 5 (3.75mm)circu lar
301
10
301
10
US 4 (3.5mm) circular
301
10
superimpos ed
US 4 (3.5mm) circular
.75cm ready
0.42
0.6
3cm ready
0.947
9.777 Total
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Operation Breakdown FRON 7 | Page
YOK
BAC
SLEE
Fron 1
2 Attach yoke & front
4
5
Join
Attach
6
Side Seam
7
Attach wash-care
8
Neck finishing & topstitch
9
Attach size and brand
1
8 | Page
Hem bottom & sleeves
Bac 3 Attach yoke & back panel
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Trims Detail
Material
Dimension
Placement
Type THREAD 3 ply
Cotton (DTM)
All over
LABELS
Brand Label
Satin
Size Label
Taffeta
Wash care Label
Satin
Marker & Spreading Mode 1 2 3 4 5
1cm X 6cm
At neck’s facing at center back 1cm X 1.5cm Adjacent to brand label 3.81cm X 2.54cm At left side seam (inside), 4” from hem
Description
S.No. Size Number of pattern pieces Total number of pieces required for each garment Marker mode (symmetrical & directional) Spreading mode
9 | Page
Values
L (Large) 7 7 N/O/W Face F/O/W
Nap N/O/W
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Zoning Sketch
Design Specification Sheet 10 | P a g e
BAC FRON T
Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Garment Inspection as per Zone A Zone Defects
Neckline Defects: Improper top stitch Cause: -Fabric stretched during stitching (too much pressure at foot) -Due to lack of proper stitching Remedies: -Set the machine accurately according the knitted fabric & stitch properly -Align the seam properly & stitch with skilled workmanship
B Zone Defects
Armhole Defects: Not aligned properly Cause: -Fabric stretched during stitching (too much pressure at foot) -Due to lack of proper marking/ proper stitching Remedies: -Set the machine accurately according the knitted fabric & stitch properly -By proper marking & aligning the seam accurately before stitch
C Zone Defects
Hemline Defects: Raw edges Cause: Operator’s fault. Remedies: Properly inspect the garment & Finish the edges with overlock machines
11 | P a g e
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Cut Order Planning Fabric Specifications:
Size
1. Blue 2. 3. Green 4.
S Content- Cotton lace and rayon 160 blend with cotton Contruction-Woven Color- Green and Blue 240 Count/ Inch- Warp-65,Weft-50
Other Specifications: L XL
M 240 360
Total Quantity
400
600
Single garment maker length ( m)
1.2
1.5
XXL
1. Open Width 2. 160 Fabric Width 80 Ordered =1.5m 160 3. Marker Mode= N/o/W 4. Spreading Mode=F/O/W , N/U/D 240 120 240 5. Fabric cost= Rs 25/meter, Lace cost=Rs29/meter 400 200 400 6. Garment = Women’s top with lace yoke & 1.7
2 2.2 full sleeves
Labor Cost: Garments quantity as per size and design colour Marker Making For Both Markers= 2*(1.10 hr*$2/hr)
Total Number of Garments= 2000 =$4.40 pieces 12 | P a g e
Spreading Cost for 400 Plies = 400*1/60hr*$1/hr =$6.67 Cutting Cost =
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Spreading and Marker preparation time 1 Garment
2 garment
3 garment
4 garment
5 garment
Spreading time /ply in minutes Fabric Saving %
0.75
0.80
0.85
0.90
1
0
2
3
5
6
Marker Preparation time in hours
0.5
0.75
0.90
1.0
1.10
Economic Cut Order Plan:
1st Lay--100 Plies—Green--S-S-M-M-M 2nd Lay—20 Plies—Green—80 Plies—Blue—S-S-M-M-M 3rd Lay—100 Plies—Green—L-L-XL-XXL-XXL 4th Lay--20 Plies—Green—80 Plies—Blue-- L-L-XL-XXL-XXL
Total No. of
13 | P a g e
Total End
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Cut Order Plan as per Design colour
Green Number of markers Marker -1 S
S
M
M
M
120 plies
Marker- 2 L
L
XL
XXL
XXL
120 plies
Economic cut order plan Lay 1 – plies Lay 2-plies Lay 3— plies Lay 4— plies
100
S
S
M
M
M
20
S
S
M
M
M
100
L
L
XL
XXL
XXL
20
L
L
XL
XXL
XXL
Size
S
M
Lay 1 -100 plies Lay 2— 20 plies Lay 3— 100 plies Lay 4— 2 plies Total
200
300
40
60
0
0
200
100
200
500
0
0
40
20
40
100
240
360
240
120
240
1200
14 | P a g e
L 0 0
XL 0 0
XXL 0 0
Total 500 100
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Blue Number of markers Marker -1 S
S
M
M
M
80 plies
Marker- 2 L
L
XL
XXL
XXL
80 plies
Economic cut order plan Lay 2-80 plies Lay 4— 80 plies
S
S
M
M
L
L
XL
XXL
L
M XXL
Size
S
M
Lay 2— 80 plies Lay 4— 80 plies Total
160
240
0
0
160
80
160
400
160
240
160
80
160
800
0
XL 0
XXL 0
Total 400
Design Specification Sheet 15 | P a g e
Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Costing Material Cost: Lay 1:
Lay 2:
Marker Length= (1.2+1.2+1.5+1.5+1.5)*0.94= 6.486m
Marker Length= (1.2+1.2+1.5+1.5+1.5)*0.94= 6.486m
Color= Green
Plies= 20 Green, 80 Blue
Plies= 100
Green:
End Allowance= 0.04*100=4m
End Allowance=0.04*20=0.8m
Total Fabric Used= (6.486*100) + 4m=652.6
Total Fabric Used = (6.486*20) +0.8m=130.52m Cost= 130.52m* Rs 25/m= Rs 3263
Lay 4:
Blue:
Marker Length= (1.7+1.7+2+2.2+2.2)*0.94= 9.212m
End Allowance=0.04*80=3.2m
Plies= 20 Green, 80 Blue
Total Fabric Used= (6.486*80) +3.2m=522.08m
Green:
Lay 3:
End Allowance=0.04*20=0.8m
Marker Length= (1.7+1.7+2+2.2+2.2)*0.94= 9.212m
Total Fabric Used= (9.212*20)+0.8m=185.04m
Plies=100 of Green
Cost= 185.04m* Rs 25/m= Rs 4626
End Allowance= 0.04*100=4m
Blue:
Total Fabric Used= (9.212*100) + 4m=925.2
End Allowance=0.04*80=3.2m
Cost=925.2m* Rs 25/m= Rs 23130
Total Fabric Used= (9.212*80) +3.2m=740.16m 16 | P a g e
Design Specification Sheet Style Code
SUKKI-20 (L)
Season
Fall Winter 2015
Retailer
BVSC,Inc.
Fabrication
Wovens
Manufacturer
BVSC,Inc.
Garment Description
Women’s top with lace yoke & full sleeves
Total Fabric Cost:
Lace
Green=185.04m+ 925.2m+130.52m+652.6m
Lace Description: White cotton lace
=1893.36m Cost=1893.36* Rs 25/m = Rs 47334
Total Lace Used= 2618.8 m Cost=2618.8m* Rs 29/m= Rs 75945.2
Lace Cost= Rs 75945.2
Blue=522.08m+740.16m
Thread
=1262.24m
Thread Description: 3ply (DTM)
Cost=1262.24* Rs 25/m
Thread roll used/ garment= 0.489 of a roll
= Rs 31556
Cost of 1 roll= Rs 3.75 Total Fabric Required= 1893.36m Total rolls of thread required= 0.489 * + 1262.24m 2000= 978 =3155.6m Cost= 978* Rs 3.75= Rs 3667.5
Fabric Cost = Rs 78890
Thread Cost = Rs 3667.5 Labor Cost: Marker Making For Both Markers= 2*(1.10 hr* Rs 35/hr) = Rs 77 Spreading Cost for 400 Plies = 400*1/60hr* Rs 20/hr = Rs 133.33 Cutting Cost = 10/60hr*4lays*5garments= Rs 61.79
Total Labor Cost = Rs 272.12 17 | P a g e