Guideline for Production and Quality Control

GPQ Guidelines for Production & Quality control -Garments

Quality Department December 2007

WHY HAVE H&M PUBLISHED GPQ? ............................................................... 3 GENERAL ...................................................................................................... 4 1. SAMPLE PROCEDURE ................................................................................ 5 1.1 H&M Sample responsible ................................................................................. 5 1.2 Sample report................................................................................................ 5 1.3 Pattern and Grading........................................................................................ 5 1.4 Dummies ...................................................................................................... 5 1.5 Development Sample (D/S) ............................................................................. 6 1.6 Quotation Sample (Q/S) .................................................................................. 6 1.7 Photo Sample (Ph /S)...................................................................................... 6 1.8 Size Set (SS/S) .............................................................................................. 6 1.9 Counter Sample (C/S) ..................................................................................... 6 1.10 Duplicate Counter Sample .............................................................................. 6 1.11 Production Sample (P/S)................................................................................ 7

2. HOW TO MEASURE .................................................................................... 7 3. COLOUR .................................................................................................... 8 3.1 Colour evaluation –visual method ..................................................................... 8 3.2 Illuminants .................................................................................................... 8 3.3 Colour continuity record .................................................................................. 8

4 LIGHTING .................................................................................................. 9 5. FABRIC AND YARN.................................................................................. 10 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4

Fabric Inspection procedure ............................................................................10 Yarn inspection .............................................................................................11 Fabric and Yarn storage..................................................................................11 Fabric and Yarn shrinkage...............................................................................11

6. TRIMMINGS ............................................................................................ 12 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4

Trim Card (moved up)....................................................................................12 Trim inspection .............................................................................................12 Pull force test of buttons and accessories. .........................................................13 Trim storage .................................................................................................13

7. PRODUCTION.......................................................................................... 14 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 7.8

New employees .............................................................................................14 Pre production ..............................................................................................14 Trial cutting ..................................................................................................14 Spreading and Cutting....................................................................................15 Process control..............................................................................................15 Stitching ......................................................................................................16 Knitting........................................................................................................16 Needle and sharp object control.......................................................................16

8. FINISHING ............................................................................................. 17 8.1 Trimming .....................................................................................................17 8.2 Pressing .......................................................................................................17

9. PACKING ................................................................................................ 18 9.1 Needle detection ...........................................................................................18 9.2 Storage........................................................................................................18 9.3 Mould/Mildew and Insect prevention.................................................................18

10. INSPECTIONS ....................................................................................... 19 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5

Initial inspection ..........................................................................................19 Inline inspection ..........................................................................................19 Final inspection ...........................................................................................20 AQL 2.5 normal inspection, single sampling plan ..............................................20 Rejected products ........................................................................................20

H&M GPQ December 2007

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11. DEFINITION OF DEFECTS ..................................................................... 21 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 11.5

Critical defects ............................................................................................21 Major defects ..............................................................................................21 Minor defects ..............................................................................................21 Judgement of defects ...................................................................................21 Problems on goods received at H&M DC or H&M shop........................................21

12. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. ............................................................... 22

Why have H&M published GPQ? H&M has published Guidelines for Production and Quality control with the goal to reach an acceptable quality standard together with the H&M suppliers. The intention is that you as an H&M supplier will use GPQ to solve problems as early as possible by: • Trying to foresee potential problems. • Taking preventive action before bulk production starts. If a problem still occurs during production you, as an H&M supplier, must: • Find the source. • Stop the process. • Identify the problem. • Solve and prevent it from recurring. • If necessary, contact H&M local office for advise. To reach the goal, an acceptable quality standard, H&M recommends the suppliers to: • Have staff with relevant education suitable for their task. • Keep records over all parts involved in the goods e.g. fabric, accessories, packing material, hangers. • Keep inspection records throughout the production Both you as an H&M supplier and the H&M customer will benefit when H&M’s goal of an acceptable quality standard is reached. Defects will be avoided, and the quantity of rejected goods reduced. Summary As a rule, point out a potential problem as early as possible in the production, start at the production planning and sample stage. Continue quality control throughout the production and do not stop until the goods are dispatched. The aim is to visually and technically inspect all goods in order to verify their general conformity and appearance with all official H&M documents and H&M approved sealed counter sample. Use records to analyze. Learn from your mistakes to prevent problems from recurring. Do not only measure percentage of defectives.


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General The GPQ are to be considered as a part of the order contract between H&M and the supplier. The GPQ sets out the minimum Quality Control required for producing goods consistently to H&M Regulations, Requirements, Restrictions, Conditions and Standards. H&M or an independent company will make various tests on counter samples, production samples and incoming deliveries to make sure above procedures are followed. H&M requires systems and procedures for in-line inspections at all stages of production and a final Quality Control report of all H&M orders to assure that the required quality is reached. H&M QC staff will routinely visit suppliers during the manufacturing process to monitor and assure that H&M’s Quality Standards and Requirements are being maintained. H&M staff should be provided easy access to all goods and records at any time before, during and after the production. It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure that all H&M official documents are communicated to the yarn, fabric and accessory suppliers. All Official documents are found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier


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1. Sample procedure It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to assess samples regarding style/design during sample stage to make sure they are suitable for bulk production. The supplier must follow requested sample deadlines, sizes and colours specified on sample order sheet, or according to eventual instructions from H&M local office. An order does not become valid until eventual photo sample has reached Sweden Buying Office on time and a counter sample has been approved by H&M. Detailed information regarding samples is found in H&M Sample Guideline under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier All • • • • • •

samples sent to the H&M local office must have a hang-tag with: Order and Department number Supplier and factory name Sample name e.g. Q/S (Quotation sample) Measurement list, Pattern or Fitting block used. Date Specify if bulk or sample yardage is used. If size, colour, print etc. are correct.

All samples in woven/knitted fabrics containing elastomeric yarn (e.g., spandex/elastane), must be in correct quality.

1.1 H&M Sample responsible

A sample technician must be assigned by the H&M supplier as responsible for H&M samples. This person must work with H&M local office technician to solve technical and safety issues, digital pictures and mock-ups are recommended. Suggested changes done on a mock-up must accompany the sample and sample report to H&M local office. To adjust samples for bulk production the sample responsible must have a good knowledge of production and work closely with the production team. H&M recommends the suppliers sample responsible to attend the Pre production meeting and to inspect the first finished garments from Trial cutting. See chapter 8 Production; 8.2, 8.3.

1.2 Sample report

The H&M supplier/factory sample technician must create a sample report when sample is checked; the report must accompany the sample to the H&M local production office.

1.3 Pattern and Grading

All H&M suppliers/factories which are using H&M pattern in production must have a pattern computer. H&M uses Lectra pattern computer. Suppliers with other pattern computer brand, must buy translating software and be able to receive H&M Lectra pattern files over E-mail.

1.4 Dummies

Approved dummies with CEN/H&M standard body measurements should be used for fitting of samples before they are sent to H&M local office. For detailed information regarding H&M Approved Dummies see: H&M Fitting Dummies found under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier,


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1.5 Development Sample (D/S)

A Development Sample marks the start of the “Pre-order process”. Already at this time it is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to consider and ensure that the product will be workable in bulk production.

1.6 Quotation Sample (Q/S)

A Quotation Sample is sent to Sweden Buying Office for approval before order is placed. To not delay the bulk production start, it is important that the Q/S follows H&M Sample Guideline.

1.7 Photo Sample (Ph /S)

A Photo Sample is used for mail order and internet sales and must therefore look like actual bulk production on photo. The order is not valid until the Photo samples have reached Sweden Buying Office on time.

1.8 Size Set (SS/S)

A Size Set consists of a sample in each size or a jumping size set as specified on sample order. To not delay the bulk production start it is important that the SS/S follows H&M Sample Guideline.

1.9 Counter Sample (C/S)

A Counter Sample is to provide H&M with a correct sample in actual bulk materials for final approval, before the production can start. It is the supplier’s responsibility to perform all necessary tests on Counter Sample. An approved counter sample is no disclaimer from the supplier’s responsibility to observe and comply with all H&M Official documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier For easy identification, H&M will attach a numbered plastic seal to the approved counter sample before returning it to the supplier with Measurement list and comments.

The order is not valid until the Counter sample has been approved. The production may start only after receiving; Counter Sample approval and the Sealed Counter Sample.

1.10 Duplicate Counter Sample

It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make duplicates of approved sealed counter sample. These must be displayed throughout the factory, especially at the inspection stages. The duplicates must be used as reference by all people involved during bulk production. Measurement list and Counter sample comments must be translated into native language, placed in plastic pocket and attached to the duplicate. For easy identification, all duplicate counter samples must be marked with: • Seal-, Order- and Department number. • Date

Duplicate Counter Samples must be displayed throughout the factory, and be available in all production units.


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1.11 Production Sample (P/S)

The production sample must be taken from the actual production line. This will be done by one of the H&M quality controllers as soon as the first goods are totally completed. All labels, price tags, etc. must be attached. Retail packaging must be the same as for the actual delivery. The production sample must reach and be approved by H&M before the goods may be delivered. Various tests will be made. The production must correspond to the approved counter sample, H&M order contract and official documents in all aspects.

2. How to Measure H&M requires that all suppliers measure all types of garments in the exact same way as H&M. Detailed measuring instructions for different product types are found in How to Measure under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Tape measures should be calibrated regularly against a metal ruler.


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3. Colour Colour is a subjective experience and is usually the first thing a consumer notice about a product. In production colour evaluation can not be handled subjectively. Colour must be specified and defined. All colours are equally important to check according to the same guidelines; shell, details, and trimmings including; thread, button, badge, zipper, interlining, drawstring, stopper etc. In order to get consistent results a colour standard must be used throughout the production chain. Colours are evaluated visually in light box with the support of instrumental evaluation by use of a spectrophotometer. Physical standard = visual evaluation in light box on a colour cutting. Numeric standard = instrumental evaluation by use of a spectrophotometer. More information regarding Colour is found in several languages under Production and Quality Control in HM Supplier Colour Guidebook at: H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

3.1 Colour evaluation –visual method

A number of variables can influence a colour evaluation. To control them, all visual evaluation must be carried out in a light box. A procedure must be followed and is described in detail in the HM Supplier Colour Guidebook.

3.2 Illuminants

H&M’s required illuminants must be used in the light box for all colour evaluation: • H&M “Shop light” TL83 • Daylight D65 • A-light (tungsten, light bulb) – indoor home light • UV light - check for Optical brighteners (OBA) Specification regarding Colour Temperature (Kelvin), Colour Rendering Index (CRI) and Lumen (Lm) are found in the HM Supplier Colour Guidebook.

3.3 Colour continuity record

Colour and shades; must be controlled by maintaining colour continuity records. Dye lot to dye lot, within a dye lot and within a roll must be checked. At same website under Supporting documents a Shade Record; a record for shades/family of shades can be found. For washed garments the H&M supplier must stitch all roll swatches together, to a patchwork (blanket), marked with roll number, and wash according to specification. After wash a shade-band for each family of shades should be created from the patchwork (blanket) before cutting. Recorded with order number, family number, dye lot, roll number, date, and planned country. For heavy/fine knit, the yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches in order to sort the different shades into families prior to knitting. A shade-band for each family of shades should be created and recorded with order number, family number, dye lot, weight, date and planned country. Colour continuity record must be available for H&M during 6 months.


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4 Lighting Lighting requirements depends mainly on three factors: • The work that will be performed e.g. inspection, sewing, warehouse. • Working area environment e.g. natural light, colour of background, ceiling and walls. • The sharpness of the worker’s eyesight. It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make sure there is correct lighting at the different work areas in the factory. To provide correct lighting factory must: • Make full use of daylight. • Provide suitable light for the work performed. • Use the right lighting device and fixture. • Find the correct placement of the light source, appropriate light height and direction suitable for the task performed. • Avoid shadows and glare. • Ensure regular maintenance e.g. cleaning of lamps, lamp replacement schedule. • Measure work area light with a Light meter and follow recommended Lux values Recommended Lux-values: Department Fabric/Accessory Checking Inspection/Quality Control Cutting/Sewing

Minimum Lux 1000

Ironing Warehouse for: Fabric/Accessory/Finished product

500 250


750

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5. Fabric and Yarn It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to ensure good fabric/yarn quality in the finished product. Fabric/yarn must be suitable for the intended garment, including its treatments. Together with its fabric supplier, the H&M supplier should ensure the fabric is carefully and systematically inspected prior to cutting. Below are some extracts from the HM Fabric Inspection Guideline. HM Fabric Inspection Guideline is found in several languages under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier At same website useful Supporting documents for fabric and yarn are found: • Fabric Technical Data; an document used during quotation stage as agreement between H&M garment supplier and their fabric supplier to secure fabric quality and its technical performance • Fabric Inspection Report; a formatted excel document for visual fabric inspection • Shade Record; a record for shades/family of shades

5.1 Fabric Inspection procedure

H&M require a visual fabric inspection of minimum 10% of the bulk fabric quantity. The fabric rolls selected for inspection must represent all colours and dye lots within a colour. If the average shipment points exceed the acceptable points or if inspection shows a high fault rate, an additional 15% must be inspected. If fabric fails again, the delivery must be 100% inspected or rejected. For visual fabric inspection of woven and jersey H&M recommends: Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics; ASTM D 5430 (4-point fabric inspection) http://www.astm.org Fabric inspection records must be available for H&M and kept for minimum 6 months. The 4 Point System is named from a basic grading rule; regardless of length/size or number of defects, no more than 4 penalty points may be assigned on any linear meter/yard. The inspection procedure must include a control of: • Full width cutting (shade control), check by folding or sewing: Side to side, side-centreside, beginning- end • Weight, on 10% of rolls chosen for inspection, a minimum of 10 rolls must be checked • Cuttable width, checked at beginning, middle and end of each roll chosen for inspection • Roll length, verification against stated length on roll ticket • Splices • Fabric odours • Bowing and skewing


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5.2 Yarn inspection

The H&M garment factory must have a method of yarn inspection. The yarn cones selected for inspection must represent all colours and dye lots within a colour. The yarn must be visually and technically inspected regarding; • Net weight • Yarn count • Look and hand feel Yarn inspection records must be available for H&M and kept for minimum 6 months.

5.3 Fabric and Yarn storage

Storage facilities must allow for air circulation, store goods off the floor and away from the walls on pallets or shelf. All fabric/yarn rolls must be covered in order to prevent damage, soiling and mould. To prevent damage/distortion of bottom rolls, fabric must not be stacked too high. Rejected fabric/yarn must be marked and stored separate to avoid mix up.

5.4 Fabric and Yarn shrinkage

H&M requires that garment suppliers do shrinkage tests of bulk fabric/yarn to estimate the shrinkage prior to cutting/knitting. If fabric/yarn lots have different shrinkage levels, it requires separate cutting/knitting patterns that are adjusted with the correct shrinkage allowance. Fabric/yarn selected for testing should represent all colours and all lots within a delivery. Shrinkage records should be maintained for both warp and weft directions.


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6. Trimmings Trimmings include: Threads, buttons, zippers, interlinings, badges, velcro, drawstrings, stoppers, labels, hang tags, care labels, price tags, etc. All trimmings must comply with all H&M Official documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

6.1 Trim Card

Trim cards must be made with bulk fabric/yarn and trimmings in all colours ordered and sent to H&M local office for approval.

6.2 Trim inspection

The H&M supplier must have a method of trim inspection. An inspection of each trim must be done immediate upon delivery to factory. Pick samples by random. The accessory parts selected for inspection must represent all colours, dye lots and “poly-bags” within a colour. • •

• • • • • •

Metal accessories must be nickel tested and must not exceed limit given in H&M Chemical Restrictions. Press & jeans buttons, rivets etc; fabric quality, interlining and number of layers must be specified to accessory supplier. A Data-sheet should be obtained. Upon delivery, test the strength of attachment, length of pin etc. on a mock-up sample. For babies’ and children’s garments a Pull force test must be done. See point 6.3. Interlining; control shrinkage and test bond strength both before and after wash test. Threads must be in correct quality to keep its strength, also after heavy garment washes. Elastic must have suitable elasticity, acceptable expiry date, be relaxed and pre-shrunk e.g. tumble dried or steamed before sewn into the garment. Care label print must be wash-proof and readable during the useful life of the product. Buttons for all garments must be attached with a lockstitch machine. Stoppers must fit the draw-string, spring must be ferrous free.

Inspection should include controls and tests suitable for the trimmings e.g.: • Overall appearance and general quality check for; cracks, sharp edges, strength, etc. • Visual colour evaluation in Light box; compare colour and colour shades against Trim card/Counter Sample. If not contrast colour, check if the colour of different parts in the same product matches in all 3 light sources. • Test the colour fastness with a Dry rubbing test: rub the item with white cloth minimum 10 cycles. • Test the bleeding with a Bleeding test: Dip the item in water, wrap or tie it around white cloth for 5 minutes. Records must be kept for 6 months. • Test the Staining by attaching all trimmings on a finished or dummy garment before wash test. • Size and grading; measure that it is correct in all sizes of e.g. zipper, drawstring etc. • Metal accessories for Babies’ and Children’s wear must be tested individually for ferrous and also be passed through the needle detector as a finished product before bulk production starts. The inspection will show whether the entire lot is acceptable or not depending on the quality of the samples inspected. All trim inspection, control and test records must be kept for minimum 6 months.


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6.3 Pull force test of buttons and accessories.

All H&M suppliers/factories for babies’ and children’s garments must have a SafQ button and accessory testing machine. All accessories like buttons, rivets, etc. must be tested for fastness up to 90N every 4th hour during production. For more information see Button test under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Tested garments must be: • Permanently marked on front with date, time, signature and machine cod/number. • Kept separately from bulk production in a locked container. • Available for H&M staff. • Destroyed after 6 months. Information regarding Children Safety is found in H&M Safety Requirements for Babies and Children under Commitments at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

6.4 Trim storage

Storage facilities should allow goods to be stored on shelves by order number or type of product. Receiving date must be marked on trimmings were properties can change during storage to ensure usage before expiry date. All accessory parts must be covered to prevent damage and soiling.


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7. Production In every area of production the emphasis must be to foresee potential problems and take preventive action. If problem occurs; find the source, stop the process, and identify the problem. Solve and prevent it from recurring. If necessary, contact H&M local office for advise. Inform the local H&M office about an order’s production start. We recommend base and trailing orders to be continuously produced, in order to keep consistent quality level. During production Minimum manufacturing requirements must be followed. Minimum manufacturing requirements are found under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

7.1 New employees

To maintain consistent quality throughout the production process all staff must have relevant education suitable for their task. H&M recommends new employees to be given an eyesight test, to establish their need of glasses. New experienced employees should be instructed regarding suppliers and customers quality standards. Their skill should be tested before they are placed in production line. New inexperienced employees should be given a training program that includes: • Basic training; exercises in sewing and handling motions e.g. machine control, eyes-hand-feet coordination, straight stitching and stitch control, techniques in angular and curved stitching, fabric alignment, chain stitching practice etc. • Job related training; detail stitching and assembly techniques etc. • Production training; speed training, fault analysis etc.

7.2 Pre production

Before production can start, the suppliers must conduct pre production meetings, style by style, and discuss how to produce the goods with a consistent quality. This will help to identify the number and type of controls and tests that are going to be required. All persons involved before and during the production must attend this meeting. Keep a record from the meeting. When the production unit is located far away, it is important to send written detailed information from the pre production meeting to the production unit.

7.3 Trial cutting

H&M recommends the supplier to do a trial cutting before production starts. Finish 150 – 600 pieces covering all sizes and colours. At this stage it is easier to find and solve problems that otherwise can occur during bulk production. When possible the supplier’s production team, independent QC and sample responsible should together inspect the first finished garments. Eventual adjustments must be made before bulk cutting starts. Records must be kept. To avoid packing problems products must be test packed according to given packing instructions. The supplier should Wash test the garment according to care instruction. Follow instructions given in the H&M Lab Manual under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Control after wash: • Over all appearance • Shrinkage • Twisting, staining, cross staining etc. • Dry and wet rubbing


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7.4 Spreading and Cutting

For replacement of defective parts during production, remnants of fabric should be saved and marked with; cut, roll, and shade number. • Fabrics containing elastomeric yarn must relax unrolled and flat folded before cutting. Depending on fabric behaviour, relaxation can be needed both before and after spreading. • Woven: All parts in the same garment of the same quality must be cut from the same layer consisting of the same dye lot. • Jersey: All parts in the same garment of the same quality must be cut from the same dye lot. • Directional fabric: all parts in the same garment must be cut in the same direction. If no other agreement is stated on order all garments in the same order should be cut in the same direction. • Tension must be checked during spreading. • Splices, both layers must overlap past the marked splice. • Ply height must be suitable according to fabric type. • All pattern pieces on marker must be placed on correct grain line. • Pattern pieces must not be damaged or overlapping when markers are drawn. • Pins must be avoided when fastening the marker to the fabric. • Parts must be checked for size conformance after cutting.

7.5 Process control

Process control will identify the source of eventual weak points in the production line. This knowledge must be used to inform and educate the personnel. A process controller: • Is responsible for approx. 30-35 machines/operators/workers. • Evaluates the work of each operator/worker minimum 2 times a day. • Inspects difficult processes more often according to Sample responsible’s advice or from a Pre production decision. • Audits 7 pieces picked at random from the operator/worker. • Returns them to the operator/worker if no defects are found. • Keeps a record. Process control system: 1. If one or more defects are found, the defective pieces are handed over to the supervisor. 2. With clear explanation on how to avoid the defect, the supervisor returns the defective pieces to the operator/worker for repair. 3. The operator/worker returns the same pieces after repair to the supervisor. 4. The supervisor returns repaired pieces to the process controller, who checks that defects have been repaired. 5. After a rejection, repeat from points 1-4 every hour until 3 consecutive controls of 7 pieces are without defects before going back to original inspecting schedule. When same item is produced in other production lines/units, check if the same problem has occurred, if so, solve it immediately.


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7.6 Stitching • • • • • • • • • •

H&M recommends working with a line system. This is to maintain a continuous quality level throughout the production and to increase the capacity. On the production floor QC’s must work both in the lines and at the end of the lines. Supervisors and Process controllers must ambulate the floor. QC’s, supervisors and process controllers must have an open communication and work together in the aim to maintain good and continuous quality in the production line. Production must be stopped when a problem occur. The problem source must be found and solved before production can start again. Records must be kept by supervisor. Mechanics should take care of the machine maintenance. All machines should be checked on regular basis. A service contract with the machine company is recommended. The machine operators are responsible that their machine runs according to standard. In case of problems the supervisor or mechanic must be contacted. Trimming should be taken care of throughout the stitching process. Trimmed loose threads must be permanently removed. Pressing depending on style and material must be done throughout the stitching process. Instructions or guides that can help the operator to keep consistent quality are recommended.

7.7 Knitting • • • • • • •

All panels in one garment should be knitted on the same machine. Light tables and cones must be used for control of panels and garments. QC’s must work on the production floor. Supervisors must ambulate the floor. Production must be stopped when a problem occur. The problem source must be found and solved before production can start again. Records must be kept by supervisor. Mechanics should take care of the machine maintenance. All machines should be checked on a regular basis. A service contract with the machine company is recommended. The machine operators are responsible that their machine runs according to standard. In case of problems the supervisor or mechanic should be contacted. Instructions or guides that can help the operator to keep consistent quality are recommended.

7.8 Needle and sharp object control •

• •

Scissors, cutters and all other tools must be attached to the work table with a chain or collected and counted daily. Broken needle records are to be kept. All broken parts must be taped into a log sheet. A magnet can be used as help to search for broken needle parts in the immediate surroundings of the work area.

Information regarding Needle and sharp object control is found in H&M Guideline for needle and sharp object control under Commitments at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier


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8. Finishing It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make sure all goods are finished and ready for display. H&M recommends their supplier to have a Display control of all products before they are packed. The control should include: • Overall appearance and general quality. • Measurement control of a few measurements in length and width. • Size label, price tag and care label.

8.1 Trimming

Final trimming must be done in the finishing area before packing. All trimmed loose threads must be permanently removed.

8.2 Pressing • • • • • • •

Pressing instruction must be given. Supervisors must ambulate the floor. Heat must be adjusted depending of material and style. To avoid shine marks, a Teflon shoe must be used. Press table cover must be exchanged regularly. To keep quality consistent; tape measure, measurement list etc. are recommended. For heavy and fine knit, a mould should be used, in order to maintain the correct shape.


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9. Packing It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make sure the product is finish level is maintained during transport. The goods should be delivered ready for display. All packing information is found under Logistics at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

9.1 Needle detection

For checking all types of babies’ and children’s products, adult underwear, swimwear and the Japanese quantity a needle detector must be used. H&M detection standard is 1,2 mm diameter sphere of ferrous metal. Records must be kept. The needle detection must be performed just before the product is packed into a carton. After detection the products should be held separate in a “metal free zone” in the packing area. Information regarding Children Safety is found in H&M Safety Requirements for Babies and Children and information regarding Needle and sharp object control is found in H&M Guideline for needle and sharp object control under Commitments at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

9.2 Storage •

• •

New unused cartons should be stored covered on pallets, to prevent them from being damaged and soiled. Packed cartons must be stored country wise fully positioned on pallets. Hanging shipments should be stored country wise, by size and colour. Goods should be covered with appropriate poly-bags/packaging materials.

9.3 Mould/Mildew and Insect prevention

Prevention of mould/mildew and insects is a part of the production process. Dampness and dirt must be avoided and removed before packing. • Factories must be kept clean and dry, including; washrooms, kitchen, lunch room and immediate surroundings. • Food must be kept and eaten only in designated areas. • Goods must be kept off the floor during production. • All goods must be dry when packed, use vacuum table with steam iron, let garments dry properly after garment wash and spot removal. • Factory warehouses must be dry and with good ventilation. • Packed cartons must be stored off the floor and away from the walls on pallets or shelves. • Avoid storing goods for long periods especially during the rainy season. Goods stored in the factory warehouse should be re-checked prior to shipment. • Use only box trucks for transport and load them under cover. • Damaged or wet cartons must be checked and repacked. • Use only PE plastic bags with envelope opening. Bags must have ventilation holes along sides and holes or cut corners at bottom. • Avoid master plastic bag. • When using Micro-Pak PE Sheets, see Micro-Pak website: http://www.micropakltd.com • A service contract with a pest control company is recommended. • During packing, the goods must be protected from insects. Windows and doors in the packing premises must either be closed or equipped with high-density net or other suitable cover. • Products with a strong smell must be packed in mesh bags. Straw and Wood must be properly dried. Transport cartons must have holes for air circulation during transport. • An audit of the packing must be done.


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10. Inspections H&M recommends the suppliers to have an Independent QC or an Independent Quality Assurance team responsible for quality control (internal audits). The team should be separated from the production team and under the direction of ownership, or fully independent. The Independent QC must perform internal quality controls continuously during the whole production process. Audit stations, Inspection area and Inspection room should have: • Day light D65 with minimum 1000 Lux over the inspection area. • Table should be in suitable size to garment. • Area must be arranged so no confusion will arise on what is rejected or approved. • Tools for checking; duplicate C/S, calibrated measurement tape, measurement list, inspection or process control report. The goods must be inspected, tested and records must be kept after each major stage of production e.g. • Fabric/Yarn inspection: Shade deviation, colour against standard, fabric defects, shrinkage. • Cutting/knitting: Parts and panels size conformance, fabric or knit defects. • Pre-assembly: General workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking, collars, sleeves, position of pockets, prints and embroideries. • Assembly: General workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking, pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes. • Finishing/pressing: Position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes, overall workmanship, pressing appearance and measurements. • Pull force test of buttons and accessories: Babies’ and children’s garments must be tested on a SafQ button and accessory testing machine every 4th hour during production. Inspection records must be kept for minimum 6 months Defects should be marked with e.g. arrow stickers. All problems identified during internal inspections or during inspections by H&M QC staff, must be corrected immediately by supplier. Supplier must have a follow up procedure to ensure the problems are permanently solved. Problems must not be present at next internal inspection, or during next H&M QC inspection. Inspection forms used must show same information as the H&M inspection reports. The reports must be kept for review by visiting H&M QC staff, or sent to H&M on request. Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QC’s working at the subcontractors. It is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure that the subcontractor follows all H&M’s Official documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

10.1 Initial inspection

This inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running production. At this stage it is still possible to find and solve problems without causing any major disturbance in the production. The suppliers Independent QC must carry out the initial inspection on the first finished goods from trial production. H&M recommends the supplier’s production team and sample responsible to take part in this inspection. To ensure conformance to requirements this inspection must include controls and tests on garments produced in production line, see H&M Lab Manual under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Eventual adjustments must be made before bulk production starts. Records must be kept.

10.2 Inline inspection

The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of production, the agreed manufacturing specifications are being followed. Problems found must be solved immediately. H&M GPQ December 2007

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10.3 Final inspection

For Final inspection the H&M suppliers must follow a minimum of; AQL 2.5 normal inspection, single sampling plan. See 10.4. Pick by random samples of finished goods from the finishing section in all sizes and colours from all countries. The inspection will show whether the entire lot is acceptable or not depending on the quality of the samples inspected. For judging defects, see chapter 12 Definition of defects. It is the sole responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all goods are consistent with: • Approved Counter Sample • H&M Order contract • Official documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier • H&M graded measurement list • Colours must be evaluated according to Counter Sample Pay special attention to the following: • Correct information on price tags • Correct assortment in poly bags • Correct colour and quantity in cartons • Correct filling level • Correct marked cartons • Correct swing tickets on hanging goods • No unnecessary master poly bags Final inspection records are to be kept for 18 months. Use the record for comparison with previous inspection results and for analysis to help identify areas that need improvement. It might be required to send copies of the final inspection report to the local H&M office for review. In those cases when H&M perform Final Inspection, easy access should be provided to all goods, allowing random samples to be taken for inspections.

10.4 AQL 2.5 normal inspection, single sampling plan, Sample Accept Reject quantity 90 - 150 20 1 2 151 - 280 32 2 3 281 - 500 50 3 4 501 1200 80 5 6 1201 - 3200 125 7 8 3201 10000 200 10 11 10001 - 35000 315 14 15 35001 500 21 22 For more information regarding: Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes. Sampling schemes indexed by acceptance quality limit (AQL) for lot-by-lot inspection. See chapter 9 Additional information. Total order quantity

10.5 Rejected products

Products permanently rejected during an inspection must be marked and kept separate. H&M recommend “Rejected for H&M” stamp on inside of garment. Rejected products must be available, minimum 1 month after delivery, for review by H&M staff.


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11. Definition of defects There are Critical, Major and Minor defects.

11.1 Critical defects •

• • • • • • • • •

Goods that do not comply with H&M Safety Requirements for babies´ and children’s wear and/or H&M Chemical Restrictions. Label missing H&M Swedish address ''H&M 106 38 Stockholm Sweden''. Label missing country of origin or composition. Label missing RN number and CA number. GB/IRL; missing “keep away from fire” label on all baby wear size 44-62 and on nightwear for children’s, ladies’ and men’s sizes. NL/DE; missing “verwijderd houden van open vuur” label on nightwear for ladies’ and men’s sizes. US/CA; missing “do not use as sleepwear” on care label for children’s underwear; t-shirts long, short sleeve and sleeve less, long johns sizes 74-164. CA; missing “Registration #” for padded items and new materials. Goods not packed according to H&M Order sheet and H&M Packing Instructions found at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Insects, Strong odour, Moist products or any objects apart from packed goods found in cartons

If a critical defect is found when inspecting, the entire production must be rejected and 100% reinspected by the supplier’s independent QC-team.

11.2 Major defects •

• • •

Visible when using and noticeable to the customer and/or could affect the quality of the goods. Affecting the usefulness of the goods. Not according to H&M Quality Standards and Requirements. Not packed according to H&M Packing sheet.

11.3 Minor defects •

•

Not visible when using and not noticeable to the customer and/or does not affect the quality of the goods. Not affecting the usefulness of the goods but not up to approved standard.

11.4 Judgement of defects •

•

Combinations of 3 minor defects, concentrated in the same critical area, that is the upper front part of the garment, will be treated as 1 major defect. If 1 major defect is found together with minors, the whole garment should be counted as 1 major defect.

However, if consistent minor defects occur, which affect the overall appearance of the goods, stop the process and contact the H&M local production office.

11.5 Problems on goods received at H&M DC or H&M shop

Problems found after goods are received at H&M Distribution Center or H&M shop must generate a supplier analysis. All records from production must be used to find and identify the problem source. An action plan based on the result (learn from your mistakes) must be used to prevent problem from recurring.


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12. Additional information. All H&M Official documents are found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics; ASTM D5430 (4-point fabric inspection) http://www.astm.org Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes. Sampling schemes indexed by acceptance quality limit (AQL) for lot-by-lot inspection are found at: ISO International Standards Organization: Standard 2859-1:1999 http://www.iso.org/iso/en/ISOOnline.frontpage BS British Standards: BS 6001-1:1999 http://www.bsi-global.com ANSI American National Standards Institute: ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 http://www.qcss.com/E-Commerce%20Products/ASQC%20Standards.htm Military Standard: MIL-STD-105E http://www.variation.com/anonftp/pub/milstd105e.pdf#search=%22mil-std-105e%22 Improving working conditions and productivity in the garment industry / Juan Carlos Hiba http://www.ilo.org/public/english/support/publ/pindex.htm Information regarding Mould and Mildew protection with Micro-Pak: http://www.micropakltd.com


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Guideline for Production and Quality Control

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