4 SIMPLE PHASES FOR LONGER STRONGER HEALTHIER HAIR
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I have created this short booklet based on my own experience with growing hair and the difficulty of building a regime; This can be used easily and effectively on the road towards maximised hair growth. I've never had long hair, it’s always broken off and been damaged. However through reading, researching and embracing the knowledge and wisdom of the hair community, I have been able to grow my hair longer than ever before in my life; and I aim to continue till I reach hip length. Wish me luck! I hope this also will help others who have struggled with growing their hair and maintaining length. Copyright True Lengths ©
Disclaimer
The information contained in this document should be used as a guideline. This is at your own discretion and the way you choose to adjust the phases to suit your own hairs needs, is entirely up to you. Products mentioned are based on personal and case study experiences; this may not work for all. The this is not medical advice and if you are suffering from problems please see a specialist COPYRIGHT
This document is copyrighted to True Lengths©. However I am happy for the information to be duplicated, copied, adapted as any user pleases. All I ask is that a mention of True Lengths© and NaturalhairGrwthShow is made. Information should be free and I encourage this being spread among friends around the world. I hope this is helpful, enjoy & God bless! Copyright True Lengths ©
Phase 1 CLEANSE
Phase 4
Phase 2
MAINTAIN
CONDITION
Phase 3 PROTECT
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THE FIRST PHASE IN ACHIEVING HEALTHY LONG HAIR IS THROUGH CLEANISING WHICH REPARES IT FOR ALL THE PHASES TO FOLLOW.
THE BEGINING OF THE CYCLE
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The most important stage in the regime cycle and the foundation for all subsequent steps. Hair that is not properly cleansed can suffer from dryness and in turn will not reach its ultimate potential.
Frequency To be repeated on a weekly/ fortnightly basis. This will depend on a range of factors including; type of products used, how often they are used and hair state. Oils, butters and silicones will need to be removed from the hair shaft to prevent build-up. Healthy hair is clean hair , growing from a clean build-up free scalp.
Action 1: Pre-Poo The act of covering hair with oil of choice before shampooing. Protects hair from the drying effect of the shampoo and aids in detangling. Application: Section hair into 4-8 parts. Saturate hair with the oil and lightly finger detangle/comb each section. Leave oil on hair for minimum 1hr, over night is a great option. Leave sections in twists, braids or clips. Recommendations: Olive oil, Coconut oil, Grape seed oil.
Action 2: Shampoo The act of cleansing the hair. Shampoos are lipophillic and bind to dirt, oil and build up on the hair and scalp; when the hair is rinsed these can be washed away leaving the hair clean. Application: Section hair into 4-8 parts (should remain from pre-poo). Saturate hair with water, at this point one can detangle with a shower comb. Apply shampoo to scalp with fingers, allow to run down to ends. With a downwards motion distribute shampoo and rinse. This can be repeated if required. Recommendations: Moisturising shampoo, Johnsons baby shampoo, parables free shampoo. Copyright True Lengths ©
THIS CONSISTS OF 3 DIFFERENT YET IMPORTANT ELEMENTS THAT ALL RELATE TO EACH OTHER. • MOISTURE • PROTEIN • LEAVE-IN THESE ARE ESSENTIAL TO ENSURE HEALTHY MOISTURISED AND STRONG HAIR.
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A vital step for adding back moisture to the hair that can be lost through the air, and shampooing. Conditioning the core of the hair strand as well as smoothing and coating the cuticle.
Frequency Weekly / fortnightly; this phase should always follow Phase 1 Cleansing.
Action: Apply Conditioner Apply to hair that has been sectioned to allow for easy distribution. Saturate hair with conditioner of choice. Apply in a downwards motion and avoid scalp to prevent pore clogging. At this point hair can be fully detangled if not done so already. Hair should be covered if required. It is best to do this with heat, body heat is fine if indirect heat is not being applied, this should be done for a minimum of 20 minutes. Conditioner should be rinse out under warm running water with the final rinse cool. Recommendations: any conditioner that states moisturising, softening and recommends longer then 10 minutes such as: DPR11, ORS replenish conditioner (although this is also a light protein), Motions CPR
Extras! - If you like to experiment, try mixing either of the following into the conditioner: • 2 tea spoons of honey • Coconut oil or oil of choice This will give you an added lush feeling and softness to die for! - Try steaming with the conditioner. If you don’t have a steamer... wrap a hot damp towel around your head and let it sit for the recommended time. It will give your hair that salon treatment feel! Copyright True Lengths ©
A vital step for strengthening the hair and adding back it’s keratin building blocks. Protein is very important for repairing damage, especially caused by chemical treatments or excess heat.
Important Considerations for frequency 1.
2. 3. 4.
Hair that has been chemically treated with a relaxer or colour will need more protein then those who are natural, a light protein should be used regularly, on a weekly or fortnightly basis. A hard protein treatment can be done every 6 weeks if required. Hair that is unprocessed (natural) will not need as much protein; one should gauge their hairs’ needs. Every 6 weeks should be suffice. ALWAYS FOLLOW A PROTEIN TREAMENT WITH A MOISTURISING DEEP CONDITION PLEASE IDENTIFY IF ONES’ HAIR IS PROTIEN SENSITIVE. IF SO USE LESS FREQUENTLY
Action: Apply Conditioner Apply to hair that has been detangled and Sectioned into 4-8 parts. Saturate hair with conditioner of choice. Apply in a downwards motion and avoid scalp to prevent pore clogging. Do not comb. Follow product instructions diligently. Use with plastic cap and rinse thoroughly after the stated time. Recommendations: Aphogee 2 minute reconstructor/ 2-step protein. Products that state ‘strengthening’, ‘reconstructor’ and contain keratin/ protein, soy protein, or wheat protein.
Extras! -If you like to experiment try using eggs as a protein treatment...but remember to rinse with cool water unless you want a head full of scrambled eggs! - You can tell if your hair needs protein if it feels very ‘stretchy’ or weak and limp when wet. Copyright True Lengths ©
This should provide you with soft manageable hair in preparation for a hairstyle that will last for your Protection phase. Seals the cuticles and holds in the moisture and nutrition from previous steps
Frequency Weekly / fortnightly or more frequently ; this Phase should always follow Phases 1&2 Cleansing & Conditioning .
Action 1: Identify leave in type Leave ins should be of pH 4.5-6. It can be a mixture of different products, but avoid any that contains alcohol as this can be drying. Application: Apply to previously sectioned hair from root to tip, ensure to focus on the ends. Smooth throughout length of hair to the tips. Recommendations: Jocio k-pack moisture leave in, Kerakare leave in, aloe vera gel, jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, Aphogee Pro-vitamin leave in.
Extras! Most high quality salon leave ins are formulated with a pH of 4.5-5.5, however adding one or two drops of lemon juice or aloe vera juice to basic conditioners can decrease the pH to help seal the cuticle. Please use this with caution or test with pH strips as it may become too acidic. A dilution of apple cider vinegar can also be added to a leave in or used as a final rinse to seal the cuticle.
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THIS PHASE IS SUBJECT TO PERSONAL CHOICE AND STYLE PREFERENCE. THE MAIN OBJECTIVE HOWEVER IS TO MAXIMISE HAIR GROWTH BY KEEPING ENDS COVERED AND PROTECTED TO REDUCE POTENTIAL FOR BREAKAGE AND RETAIN ANY LENGTH GAINED.
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This phase will reflect your individual style preferences but will ultimately help with retention by minimising the wear and tear that hair faces on an everyday basis.
Frequency A protective/ low manipulation style should last between 4 and 14 days or at least until you begin Phase 1 again. Sew-ins (weaves) are an exception and can be worn for up to 3 months (or more if you can handle it).
Considerations The aim of protective styling is to: 1. Minimise breakage from manual manipulation. i.e. combs, fingers, hair bands and heat. 2. Keep ones hair in a single style for an extended period of time. 3. Stretch out a hair style to prevent tangles and knots from forming if the hair has already been properly prepared i.e. detangled. 4. Protect hair from the elements such as wind and pollution that can dry it out. 5. Reduce manipulation from re-styling, requiring regular combing and touching which can cause manual breakage. The best protective styles are those that keep the ends of ones hair tucked away from the elements.
Recommendations Protective styles avoid hair rubbing on the shoulder, on scarves and collars as these contribute to split ends and drying You could try: Buns, twists, braids, wigs, weaves, updo’s, twist/braid- outs (depending on hair length), roller-sets, flexi rodsets, bantu knot outs, wraps Copyright True Lengths ©
THIS IS HOW YOU WILL MAXIMISE THE MOISTURE IN THE HAIR AND KEEP IT PROTECTED UNTIL PHASE 1 STARTS OVER.
THIS IS OFFICIALLY THE END OF THE CYCLE.
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This phase essentially represents the moisturising and sealing step.
Frequency To be performed daily or every other day as the hair requires. Ideally this should be done before bed to allow the moisture to penetrate over night
Action 1: Moisturise Work with hair in sections, apply a decent amount of water based product or own moisturising mix. Work through hair and focus on ends, nape and edges. Do not over wet the hair to the point that it becomes excessively greasy. Action 2: Seal Now that hair has been fully moisturised you will need to seal it in with an oil of your choice. Take a couple of drops of oil (1-2) rub it together in the palms of your hands and apply to each sections/ Recommendations: Make sure to focus on the ends as these are the oldest part of the hair and the most vulnerable to breakage. You can also finger comb to remove loose or shed hairs and prevent tangling. Immediately following you may re-do your protective style e.g., twists, bantu knots, buns etc, then cover hair with a silk or satin scarf. Products to try: Olive Oil moisturising lotion, Herbal Essence split end protector, Neutrogena Triple Moisture, Shea Butter, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil
Extras!
1) You might also like to try using the baggie method overnight, this involves applying a mix of leave in conditioner, moisturiser and oils to the hair then covering it with a plastic cap or bag. This can be used on the ends only, or the entire head. 2) Additionally a scalp massage may follow this step. Use the pads of your finger tips in a circular rotation motion to massage the scalp for approximately 2 minutes. Copyright True Lengths ©
A frame work that can be used to maximise ones hair growth potential. This can be used and adapted as best suites you.
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DAY
ACTION
DESCRIPTION
SATURDAY:
DETANGLE CLEANSE CONDITION PROTECTIVE STYLE
With comb or fingers With Cleanser of choice Moisture ( if using protein follow with moisture) Chose style to last for week/ min 3 days
SUNDAY
-
-
MONDAY:
MAINTAIN
Moisturise with water based product. Seal with light oil
TUESDAY:
MAINTAIN
Moisturise with water based product. Seal with light oil
WEDNESDAY:
CONDITION MAINTAIN
Lightly apply leave in or co-wash. Protective style can be re-done Moisturise with water based product. Seal with light oil
THURSDAY:
MAINTAIN
Moisturise with water based product. Seal with light oil
FRIDAY:
PREPOO
Saturate hair with oil of choice root to tip. Cover overnight for next day shampoo With fingers or comb while hair is oiled (optional)
DETANGLE
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