I J;
/
BOSTON PUBLIC UBRT^RY
.._7—
—1~^'
12
HANDICRAFT
FOR HANDY BOYS
BOOKS BY 8vo.
Cloth.
A.
NEELY HALL
Illustrated with hundreds of full-page
and working drawings by the author arid Norman P. Hall
THE BOY CRAFTSMAN
.
.
5 (
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
THE HANDY BOY
.
.
^"ce «^/^
1.60
Postpaid
1.82
^"""^ \
'f^^
^
^'^
i
Postpaid
2.25
^
Price «./^
i. 60
I
Postpaid
1.82
.
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD
CO.,
BOSTON
A Boy Craftsman
^Modern Electrics.
in His
Workshop.
Factory of the Juvenile Manufacturing Co., of Dayton, Ohio. Fitted up in a Play-House. {See
Page
103.)
HANDICRAFT
FOR HANDY BOYS Iractical Plans iorA^ferk and Play
withMany Idoas ior EarningMonGy i?j;
ANccly Hall
Author of'Hio Boy Craftsman, Eic. mill nearly sixliunArcJ Jluftratiom an J working-drawings Ly tKc auiliDr and NormanP Hall
BOSTON
LOTHROP. LEE grSHEPARD
QO.
Copyright,
1911,
by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company. Published, August, 1911.
All rights reserved.
Handicraft for Handy Boys.
TTI(pO
J. S.
Gushing Co.
— Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.
When you when you
play hard; and
play,
work, do not play at
— Theodore
all.
Roosevelt.
INTRODUCTORY NOTES This is
intended for the same class of
latest ideas for
and school
There are
new volume.
'*
maki7tg things, practical p kins for earning tnoney,
for games and
up-to-date suggestions
Jiome
The Boy Craftsman," and readers, — boys who want the
a companion volume to
is
all
sports,
and
novelties
for
e7itertai7iments.
of Handicraft for
sorts
Some
Handy Boys
of the ideas will appeal
more
in this
directly to
younger readers, while other ideas will be better suited to the older lads who have become more capable through experience with earlier ventures and advancement in school. At the time of the publication of "
The Boy Craftsman,"
the opinion that
well to provide a boy with a book which
it is
the author advanced
contains not only a goodly measure of the simple ing
little
work
requir-
or no experience in the handling of tools, but also the
proper instruction to help him grow more proficient, and such advanced work as he will then be prepared to undertake and the ;
success of this former volume has proven that such a book gets right next to a boy's heart, that
it
furnishes him with ideas for
many
years' work, and that it produces the best possible influence over him in encouraging him to be industrious. Every
young fellow loves to plan and dream about what he is ''going to do " some day, and in simply looking over the more advanced ideas in a book of this kind, he experiences, in his imaginative mind,
much
of
the pleasures that his older brother or friend
gets out of the actual
too
young
to
work
no school boy is enjoy such a book, and the act of placing a copy ;
for this reason,
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
vi
in his
hands
at
an early age
will
be the means of instiUing
him an ambition to make the best possible use of his time, before he has had a chance to acquire a tendency to be
in
an
idler.
As
"
in
The Boy Craftsman,"
the author has
planned
tJie
suggestions on an ecojiomical basis, providing for the use of old boards, the materials which a boy ordinarily has at hand,
—
grocery boxes, cigar boxes, barrels, tin cans, worn-out pans and spools, discarded clocks, broken tins, pails, broom-handles, chairs
and other
clothes-line,
furniture,
a few cents.
hats and clothing, stovepipe,
screen wire, and other things too numerous to
— besides
mention,
old
The
many
things which can be purchased for
greater part of the ideas require very
little
any outlay of money, and many suggestions for earning mo7tey have been included to make it possible for a boy to provide himself with all the tools which he requires or wishes to own, without having to call upon the home treasurer for the means These features were brought together for such purchases. for the first time in ''The Boy Craftsman," and have won the confidence of parents who realize that, in giving a book of this kind to their boys, they are providing something which will encourage self-reliance and resourcefulness rather than a dependence upon home for money for tools and working which is often the cause of endless worry where material
if
—
such cannot be furnished.
The work
is
as will interest the boy with unlimited funds
along such
lines
at his disposal, as
well as the boy in moderate circumstances, and, inasmuch as it
has been planned on a small cost basis,
of doing tion for
it
should be the means
him more good, and help him to form a firmer foundalater years, than something which might tend to culti-
vate a love for extravagance.
Much of the zuork is closely allied to the studies of the inodern grammar and high schools, as will be seen by glancing over the table of Contents, and
it is
hoped and believed that
•
INTRODUCTORY NOTES this outside instruction will
vii
be the means of helping boys
to
appreciate the value of close application to studies.
impossible to
It is
make
in the sense of covering
boys are interested
;
a book of this character complete,
every scope of work and play in which
for the field
is
practically inexhaustible,
Every new development in the scientific world is being investigated by an eager army of boys possessing an unquenchable thirst for something new, and generally some young mechanical genius discovers how and if to introduce the idea into the boys' realm of work costly apparatus was used in the original experiments, he " plugs away" until he finds out how this can be made, wholly or partly, with the materials boys are accustomed to work with, and
growing larger day by day.
is
;
—
the truck to be found about the house, in the shed, in alleys
and
in
junk shops, and inexpensive
stuff.
This sort of original
and no better way can be found than by providing them with a book of modern and ingenious work which will appeal to their mechanical investigation should be encouraged in boys,
natures.
Here
an example of the pace at which boys' achievements are following the developments of the day. Every up-to-date boy is now experimenting in electrical work and wireless telegraphy, work which has put into the background experimental chemistry not long ago one of the principal scientific pastimes, and one of the features of boys' handy books and he is producing original forms of model aeroplanes, while aeronautics now occupies more of his attention than kite-flying, a fact which no one, a few years ago, would have beUeved to be possible. With the shifting of boys' interests in work and play, it is only natural for the book which contains the greatest variety of modern ideas to win the greatest amount of popularity. Whether or not this book will meet the present demands of boys, the author is willing to let his readers decide. The manual training in the first portion of the book has been is
—
;
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
viii
provided for the benefit of the boys
who have not
the advan-
tages of such instruction at school, as well as to help those who have these advantages, in providing themselves with equipment for
home
The chapter on working-drawings has been
use.
enough of the principles of mechanical drawing to enable them to design and work out their own ideas accurately on paper, and the numerous plans for easily made furniture, for toys and gifts, and for such handy contrivances for the house as a fireless cooker will furnish them with a good supply of ideas to make selections from for shop work. The suggestions for fitting up a boy's room and for making box furniture and gymnasium apparatus will enable boys to provide themselves with rooms furnished to suit their inserted to instruct boys in
The chapter on a boy's wireless telegraph outfit practical ideas for home-made apparatus in its simplest
convenience. contains
forms, the chapter on model aeroplanes shows
model
flying machines,
practical
cable in
some
and
some
of the best
the " auto-airship " described is a
scheme for a boy's airship that runs along a rope which the safety of a toboggan slide is combined with
of the thriUing sensations of flying through the
To encourage work treated with as
much
m
the open, outdoor pastimes
air.
have been
care and consideration in the selection of
material as indoor work.
Designers of home-made furniture for amateurs generally omit dimensions on their working-drawings, probably figuring but that the work will thus appear less complicated to them ;
designers of furniture and machines would not think of omitting these from drawings that are to be turned over to skilled
workmen, so
boys to get along without them. The dimensions upon the furniture-drawings in Chapter VI may make them appear complicated, but after studying the instructions for making working-drawings, any boy will find
them
it is
foolish to expect
clear
sary information.
and
explicit
and
to contain only the neces-
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
ix
All of the material in this volume has been thoroughly tested,
and hundreds of thousands of boys have already had an opporsome of the ideas which have been included in the author's articles for boys published recently in TJie Ladies' tunity to carry out
Home Joarjial 3.r\d Good Housekeeping,
in his
"Boy Carpenter"
department of The Boys' Magazine, and in The American Boy. The author wishes to extend his thanks to the editors and pubHshers of the above publications, for their care in preserving and returning the original drawings for the illustrations to these articles that they might be used in this book. With a few exceptions, the photographs used were prepared by the author, either from the models he made or from the work constructed by his readers from his plans and instructions.
The author invites correspondence, and is always glad hear how his boys succeed with their work, and pleased receive photographs of their handicraft for his collection. A. N. H. Chicago, Illinois,
May
31,
19H.
to to
PART
I
A UTUMN AND WINTER HANDICRAFT CHAPTER
I
PAGE
The Home Workshop Introduction — What
I
Do — Selecting a Boy should be able — Gas or Electric Light — Cabinet-made Benches — A Home-made Bench — A Solid Work Bench — The Bench-vise — An Iron Bench-screw — An Iron Vise — A Work Bench with Tool Drawers — A Tool Tray — Home-made Benchstops — An Adjustable Bench-stop. Suitable Place for a
a
to
Shop
CHAPTER
II
Tools and Home-made Shop Equipment Purchasing Tools A Handy Guide for Purchasing The Principal Tools Required A Small Outfit and how it may be added
— — — to — Jack-knife — Hatchet — Hammer — Tack Hammer — Crate Opener — Nail-set — Wooden Mallet — Cross-cut Saw — Rip-saw — Compass-saw — Keyhole-saw — Back-saw — Coping-saw — Bracketsaw — Scroll-saw — Jack-plane — Smoothing-plane — Fore-plane — Rabbet-plane — Dado-plane — Ratchet-brace — Auger-bits — Expansive-bit — Wood Bit — Brad-awls — Scratch-awl — Hand — Spiral-ratchet Gimlet — Rose Countersink Bit — Automatic Screw-driver — Hand Screw-driver — Screw-driver Bit — Firmer Chisels — Framing or Mortising Chisel — Gouge — Cold-chisel — Draw-knife — Spoke-shave — Half-round Wood-file — Handiest Forms of Files — Two-foot Folding Rule — Try-square — CarpenDrill
Drill
xi
H
— CONTENTS
xii
Steel Square — Bevel — Marking-gauge — Wing Dividers — Level — Pocket Level — Odd-jobs — Cutting Pliers — Wrench — Wood Handscrews — Cabinet-maker's Clamps — Home-made Clamps — Grindstone — Oilstone — Oiler — Grocery-box Tool-chest — Tool-cabinet — Tool-rack — Open Shelves — Material Boxes — Screws, Partitioned Nail Box — Another Box — Receptacles and Brads — Horse — Saw-bench — Chair Saw-bench — Miter-box — Bench-hook — Shooting-board.
PAGE
ter's
for Nails,
CHAPTER
III
Elementary Manual Training
42
Working Material — Structure of Wood — Cutting — Plain Sawing — Quarter Sawing — Knots — Cupup the Log shakes and Heart-shakes — Checks — Seasoning — Kiln Drying — Stock or Stuff — Undressed Stuff— Dressed Stuff— Matched Stuff — Matched-and-beaded Stuff — Boards — Planks or Dimension Stuff — Timber — Stock Sizes of Lumber — Purchasing Material — A Mill List — Estimating Cost of Material — Laying out Work — Gauging A Planing Exercise — Winding-sticks — A Sawing Exercise — Joints and Splices — Common-joint — Butt-joint — Common-splice — Fished-splice — Halved-joint — Halved-splice — Mortise-andtenon Joint — Pins — Wedging — Rabbet — Rabbet-joint — Grooves — Housed-joint — Tongue-and-groove Joint — Mitered-joint — Mitered-sphce — Dovetail-joint — Dovetail Half-lap Joint — Doweljoint — Battens — Cleats — Taper — Bevel — Chamfer — Gluing up Work — Screws — Nails — Carriage-bolts. Selection of
CHAPTER Wood
IV
Finishing
The
75
Finishes best adapted to
Boys'
Work — Paint — Mixing
— Painting — Staining — Water Stains — Oil Stains — Shellacking — Filling — Waxing — Varnishing — Rubbing — Polishing — Oiling — Sandpapering — Puttying — A Home-made Paints
—
Brushes
Putty-knife
— Caution about Oily Rags. CHAPTER V 86
Working-drawings
What have
a Working-drawing
Difficulty
in
is
Reading
Purpose — Why Some People and Working-drawings — Definitions of its
A
•
CONTENTS
xiii
PAGE
Detail Drawings, Specifications, Plans, Elevations, Cross-sections,
— Scales — A — — Drawing Outfit A Drawing-board A Drafting Table — A T-square — A 45 -degree Triangle — A 60-degree Triangle — Compasses — A Ruling-pen — A Set of Instruments — A 12-inch Ruler — A Scale — Drawing Pencils — Pens — Drawing Ink — An Ink Eraser and a Pencil Eraser — An Erasing Shield — A Home-made Pencil Box and Inkstand — Thumb-tacks — Drawing-paper — Blueprints — Tracing-cloth — Tracing-paper — A Home-made Printingframe — Preparing Working-drawings — Dimension-lines, Dot-anddash Lines, and Dotted Lines — Titles — Marginal Lines — Lettering. Longitudinal Sections, and a Perspective Drawing
CHAPTER Easily
VI
Made Furniture
103
— What Boys generally want — The Juvenile Manufacturing — — A Whisk-broom Holder — A Clock-shelf — A Necktie Rack — A Towel-rack — Book-racks — An Extension Book-rack — Popularity of Tabourets and Plant Stands — A List of Material showing Exact Finished Dimensions — A Tabouret — Leveling up Uneven Legs — Another Tabouret — A Plant Stand — A Footstool — Upholstering Material and how Upholster — A Bench — Two Magazine Racks — A Music-cabinet — An Umbrella-stand — A Roman Chair — A Mission Chair — wire up the Mission Writing-desk — An Electric Lamp — How Lamp with a Socket and Drop-cord — A Drafting Table — A Desk A Good
—
Test of a Boy's Skill
to
Plan for Earning Money Make Choice of Material Company
to
to
Table.
CHAPTER
VII
Handy Contrivances for the House
135
—
Things a Boy can make and Sell How to sell Home-made A Fireless Cooker The Fireless Cooker used by the United States Army A Pot-cover Rack A Bottle-rack How to cut Large Holes A Flat-iron Rest A Flat-iron Rack A Sleeve-board A Knife-box A Scrub-pail Platform A Towelroller An Ice-pick and Ice-chisel Rack How to finish HouseArticles
—
—
—
—
hold Conveniences.
—
—
—
— — —
—
—
—
CONTENTS
xiv
CHAPTER
VIII PAGE
A
Boy's
Room
in
an Attic
149
A Dividing Partition — A Plumb-line — A Plumb-board — Lockers — Wainscoting — A Large Clothes Closet — Trousers Hangers —
— The Entrance-door Transom — An Old-fashioned Cabin Latch — An Oil Heater or Stove — A Wash-stand — A Broomhandle Towel-rack — Lighting the Room — A Home-made Hanging Lamp — Furnishing the Room — Home-made Picture-frames — The Furniture — A Pirate Chest — A Window Seat — Suggestions for Doors
Boys who have no
Attic.
CHAPTER
IX
Box AND Barrel Furniture The Hand
160
Making Things out Writing-desk A Shelf for Books
Possibilities for
of the
Materials
at
— — An Office Chair — — A Waste-basket An Arm Rocker — A Barrel Table — A Chiffonier — How to Box Furniture. —A
finish
CHAPTER X Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus for a Boy's Room .170 A Chest-weight — A Striking-bag — A Striking-bag Platform — .
A
Chinning-bar
—A
Hitch-and-Kick
Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and
—A
Wand — A Rack
for
Wand.
CHAPTER
XI
Cigar-box Toys and Gifts
178
— Material — Finish — Cutting Articles to give away and to — An Express-wagon — A Cart — An Auto Delivery-wagon — A Jack-in-the-Box — A Round-seated Chair — A Round Centertable — A Dining-table — A Square-seated Chair — A Doll's Cradle — A Key-board — A Corner Clock-shelf — A Whisk-broom Holder — A Kitchen Match-box — A Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box — A Cottage Match-box — Suggestions Other Gifts. Sell
for
CHAPTER
XII
Clockwork Toys The Necessary
A
Merry-go-round
i8g
— How to prepare the Clockwork — — The Standard — The Tent — The Tent-poles Materials
CONTENTS
— The Riders
Horses
— The
— The
Sleighs
Platform
— The
— How
XV
Shafts
— The
to operate the
PAGE
Girl
and Boy
Merry-go-round
—
Other Animals the Merry-go-round — A Miniature Ferris Wheel — The Standard — The Station Platform — How make the Wheel — How to make the Cars — The Car Axles — How to mount the Wheel — Steps to the Platform — The "Flying Airships" — The Standard — The Mast — The Cars — How to increase the Speed of for
to
the Clockwork.
CHAPTER
XIII
Brass Craft
206
The Tools and Materials Required — Enlarging Designs by Squares — Piercing — Polishing the Brass — A Home-made Antique Green Lacquer — A Tea-pot Stand — A Calendar Board — A Pen Tray — A Lamp-shade — Chain Fringe — A Candle-shade — Shadeholders — A Candle-stick — A "Paul Revere" Lantern.
CHAPTER XIV A
Boy's Wireless
Telegraph Outfit
219
Marconi and his Experiments — What Some Boys have Accomplished — The Chicago Wireless Club — Code Cards, Call and Aerogram Blanks — Amateur Commercial Stations — Fundamental Principles of W^ireless Telegraphy — The Aerial — Masts for the Aerial — Insulating the Aerial — Grounding the Aerial — The Receiving Outfit — Telephone Receivers — Detectors — A Microphone Detector — A Razor-blade Microphone Detector — A Silicon Detector — A Tuning-coil — A Fixed Condenser — A Potentiometer — The Transmitting Outfit — An Induction-coil — A Spark-gap — A Storage Battery — Dry Batteries — A Wireless Key — A Knife Switch — A Good Arrangement the Instruments — Operation of Instruments — How to receive a Call — How to make a Call — Codes — A Good Way to learn a Code — Electrical Measurements — Connection of Dry Batteries. Lists,
for
CHAPTER XV Stunts for a Boys' Vaudeville Show
The Best Kind Strong
of Stunts for a Boys'
Man — Holding
out a Chair
256
Show
— Sam
upon which a Boy
is
Dow,
the
Seated
—
CONTENTS
xvi
.
.
—
PAGE
—
The Dumb-bell Lifting Feat Juggling with Heavy Balls BoneThe Professor head The Magical Mortar The Wonderful Hat Trick Other Mortar Stunts The Professor's Final Exhibi— tion The Dummy Assistant Falsetto, the Boy with a Wonderful Voice The Ventriloquist How to make the Ventriloquist's Doll Willie Shute, the Crack Shot of the World The Targets
—
—
—
—
—
—
His Blunderbuss
—
—
—
— — A Program Board — Admission Tickets.
—
CHAPTER XVI Moving Pictures
A
270
Simple Moving-picture Machine
Cylinder
— The
Clown and
—
Hound Pictures How The Revolving Wheels
— The
Ball Pictures
to operate this
Wooden Base — The
— The Circus Horse and Toy — The Automobile —
— The Boxing-match. CHAPTER XVH
A Snow Battleship A New Idea for a Snow Fight — The Central Station — The Hull — A Torpedo Tube — The Superstructure Deck — The Conning-
279
— The Forward Turret — The Midship — The Mast — The Fighting-tops — Rapid-fire Guns — The Crosstree — A Coach-whip Pennant — Paper Signal Flags — A Union Jack — A National Ensign — The Funnels — The Ventilators — The Mainbattery Guns — The Secondary-battery Guns — Arrangement of Ammunition Stores — Duties of the Captain — A Naval Battle-^ Rules the Battle — A Flag of Truce — The " Torpedo Boats " — tower
Turret-r
for
Repairing the Ships after a Battle
— Marksmanship.
CHAPTER A
XVIII
Coaster and a Bob-sled
A Coaster — How to lay out the Runners — Shoes for Runners — Connecting the Runners — The Seat — Sled Handles — The Foot-bar — Painting the Sled. A Bob-sled — The Four Runners — Connecting the Runners — The Sled Seats — The Plank Seat — How to hinge the Seat to the Stern Sled — Check-chains — The Steering Foot-bar — The Steering Lines — Handle-bars — A Seat Cushion — Painting the Bobsled.
287
CONTENTS
PART
xvii
II
SPRING AND SUMMER HANDICRAFT CHAPTER XIX PAGE
Model Aeroplanes
297
Spring Activities — " Aeroplane Time — Length of Model Aeroplane Flights — Junior Aero Clubs — Model Aeroplane Meets — Types of Machines Used — Support of Aeroplane — A Cardboard Bird Glider — A Simple Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Planes — A Glider Race — An Easily Made Propeller — Shaft and Shaft Bearing — Motive Power — Winding up the Motor — A French Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Propeller — Running-gear — Skids — Planes — Adjustment of Planes — An Antoinette Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Propeller — Wings — Tail — Fin — Rudder — Running-gear — A More Elaborate Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Material Binding — Running-gear — Propeller — Shaft and Bearing — Motor — Planes — Bracings — Rudder — Finish — Flights Monoplane capable of Making — Field ''
for
this
for
is
Experimenting.
CHAPTER XX A
Boy's Auto-airship
327
— The Framework of the Balloon — Barrel-hoop Ribs — Rib-bands — Stays — The Balloon Envelope — Construction of the Car — The Propeller — A Starting Platform — A Push-off Platform — The Rope Cable — Attachment of Car — Windlass pulling back the Airship to Starting Platform — An Auto-airship Club. A
Safe and Practical "Boy-carrying'' Airship
for
CHAPTER XXI Camping Equipment
"A"
— —
—
and Wall Tents How to make an "A" Tent The Ridge-pole and Uprights Tent Stakes Pitching a Tent A Tent Ground-cloth A Pine Twig Mattress A Sleeping-bag Other Equipment An Electric Flash Lamp Packing A Safety Match-box A Duffle Box Food Supplies If you are to Prices of
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
— —
—
337
CONTENTS
xviii
— Making an Open Fire — The Backwoodsman's Camp Fireplace — Pothooks — A Sheet-iron Camp Stove — A Dutch Oven — A Camp Fireless Cooker — To build a Fire — Camp Furniture — A Camp Chair — A Camp Table — A Good Table Bench — A Com-
PAGE
be Cook
fortable
Box Bench
— Box Cupboards. CHAPTER
A Home-made Punt
.
.
XXII 351
.
— Material — The Side Boards — The Stem- and Stern-pieces — The Bottom Boards — An Inner Keel Board — Seats — Rowlocks — Thole-pins — The Painter — Finishing. Dimensions
CHAPTER A Home-made
XXIII
Sharpie
Dimensions
— The
356 Side-pieces
— The
Stem-piece
— The
Stern-
— The Stretcher — To put the Pieces Together — The Bottom Boards — The Skeg — An Inner Keel Board — Seats — Finishing the Bow — The Painter — An Easily Made Rudder — The Rowlock Blocks — Rowlocks or Thole-pins — Finishing.
piece
CHAPTER XXIV
....
Pushmobiles and Other Home-made Wagons
364
— The Flushing Where get Wheels — What a Pushmobile Pushmobile Club — The Vanderbilt Cup Race — Description of a Pushmobile Race — Organizing Pushmobile Clubs — To construct a Pushmobile — The Iron Axles — The Wooden Axles — The Wagon-bed — The Steering-wheel — The Hood — The Radiatorfront — The Seat — HeadHghts — Side Lamps — A Clock-case Side Lamp — Painting — The License Number — A Racing Pushmobile. An Auto Wagon — The Steering-wheel — Another Steering-gear — The Seat — A Trip Gong. A Simple Push Wagon — The Wagon-bed — The Rear Wheels — The Axle for the Front Wheels. to
Is
CHAPTER XXV Bird-houses
—
Designing the Bird-house and choosing a Location for It Materials out of which to make Bird-houses A Box Bird-house
—
379
CONTENTS
xix
— Another Box Bird-house — A Bird Tower — A Tin-can Bird Tower — A Bird Castle — A Bird Ark — A Wall Bracket Bird Ark — A House and Swing — A Hanging House — A Shelter. CHAPTER XXVI Houses for Pets
389
—
^
—
A Dog-house A Rabbit-hutch Galvanized Poultry-netting, Twist Wire Cloth, and Wire Cloth for Fronts of Hutches and Casres A Breeding Hutch A Two-story Rabbit-hutch A Rabbit Yard A Cage for White Rats An Elevated "Race-track" Drinking Receptaclec Painting Floor Covering A Pigeon-
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
cote.
CHAPTER XXVn A
Castle Club-house and Home-made Armor
— The Framework — The Floor — Boarding up the Walls — To cut
Material
Turrets
Leaks — The
.... —
Joists
404
The Corner The
the Openings
Battlement — Secret
—
— the Roof Treasure — The Drawbridge — To counterbalance the Drawbridge — A Windlass — A Moat. Home-made Armor — A Helmet — A Shield — A Sword. Roof
If
Vaults
CHAPTER XXVni A
Band of Home-made Instruments The Neighborhood Parade — Materials out
Boys'
416 of which to
make
the
— A Cornet — A Trombone — A Bass Horn — A Fife — A Bass Drum — Cymbals — The Drum-stick — Snaredrums — The Drum Major — A Splendid "Bearskin" Cap — The Drum Major's Staff — The Major's Whistle — Uniforms — Organizing a Band — How the Band be useful the Home Circus, — Vaudeville, and Other Shows A Boy Scout Band. Imitation Instruments
will
Index
in
427
LIST OF
HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
(In addition to
more than
five
hundred
PART A Boy
Craftsman
in his
text illustrations.)
I
Worksliop
Frontispiece
Factory of the Juvenile Manufacturing Co. FACING PAGE
A A
Basement Workshop Corner of the Author's
Home Workroom
— Whisk-Broom Holder Fig. 109. — Clock-Shelf Figs 10 and III. — Necktie-Racks — Book-Racks 2-1 Figs Figs 122 and 123. — Tabourets] Fig. 124 — Plant Stand Fig. 125 — Footstool Figs. 13 and 132. — Magazine-Racks Fig- 133 — Music-Cabinet Fig. 134 — Umbrella-Stand Fig. 139 — A Roman Chair Fig. 140. — A Mission Chair Fig. 141. — A Mission Writing-Desk Fig. 142. — An Electric Lamp Fig. 206. — Construct Your Chest-Weights First Fig. 210. — Where to Hang the Striking-Bag Fig. 215. — The Doorway Chinning-Bar Easily Put Up Fig. 223. — An Express- Wagon 224. — A Cart Figs. 225 and 226. — Two Views of an " Auto Dehvery-Wagon " Fig. 228 — A Jack-in-the-Box Fig. 229 — The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-Box Fig. 230 — A Round-Seated Chair
86
Fig. 108.
104
1
1 1
14.
[
.
no
J
124
128
170
is
Fiof.
Fig. 231 Fi<
232
Fig. 233 Fig. 234
—A
178
180
182-183
Round Center-Table
— A Dining-Table — A Square-Seated Chair — A Doll's Cradle
XXI
LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
XXll
— A Key-Board Fig. 239 — A Corner Clock-Shelf Fig. 240 — A Whisk-Broom Holder Fig. 241 — A Kitchen Match-Box Fig. 242 — A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box Fig. 253 — A Merry-Go-Round Fig. 254 — A Clockwork Motor Fig. 255 — A Ferris Wheel Fig. 256 — A Flying Airship Furnish the Only Means 360 — The " Torpedo-boats
FACING PAGE
Fig. 238
184
,
"
Fisf.
at
190
of Attack
Close Range
280
PART
II
Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School A Model Aeroplane Meet of the Calumet Aero Club Some Good Forms of Model Aeroplanes Wall Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly Flapjacks for
Some
297 302
340
Two
of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile Club Races
Winning Car in the Vanderbilt Cup Race At the Start Off. A Flushing Pushmobile Club Race Fig. 483. A Bird Tower Fig. 484
Fig. 485 Fig. 486
Fig. 506
Fig. 515 Fig. 530 Fig. 531
Fig. 532
364
366 J
— — A Bird Castle — A Bird Ark — A House and Swing — The Castle Club-House — A Boy Knight with His Home-Made Armor — The Cornet — The Trombone — The Bass Horn
....
382
404 412 416
PARTI
Autumn an(l^\^ntcr Handicraft
With the
new
autumn and
the coming of
school year, the
have enjoyed
all
summer
the beginning of
majority of you the
freedom
of
boys
outdoor
who life
probably pick up your books with a feeling of regret
must knuckle down again to studies. But as soon as you meet all the boys and get to talking over last year's good times, your old school enthusiasm returns then when some one proposes something that you
;
interesting to do,
you
once
at
fall
into line with
the
other fellows in offering suggestions, and the chances are that before the day
that school of a
life
is
is
pretty
day or so football
is
over you are ready to admit
good
after
all.
In the course
under way, and possibly plans
have developed for an athletic club and literary society,
schemes have been undertaken by groups of boys who have found that they can work together congenially, and very likely each boy has while
all
sorts
of
work to do. These outside interests help probably more than anything else to keep school from becoming monotonous.
mapped out
a lot
of
individual
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
2
To
be able to
your own room, construct apparatus for a
for
and
prepare
various
the
neighborhood
"
shows
just a
little
made; will
to
;
properties
be able to
to
make
be presentable as
pieces of
Christmas
your friends and relatives
in
;
you boys should
of
is
but before you can expect to do
to use
will
be necessary for you to
all
strive
be handy
know This
to
attain;
these things
of
not only
carpenters' tools properly, but also
about the v/ork in the right way.
gifts
an accomplishment
which every one
general
handicraft which
short, to
in
it
or
build wagons,
and birthday
about doing things
well
for school
"
than those the other fellows have
better
to be able
"
"
"gym"
model aeroplanes, and other things
boats, sleds, kites,
to
up a club-room or make furniture
fix
is
how
to
how go
the author s
book of handicraft for you with instructions upon manual training. Unless you have a workshop, or at least a space large enough in which to set up a work bench, you will be handicapped for any kind of home carpentry, for to get good results it is necessary to have something strong and solid to work upon and a vise which reason for beginning this
v^^ill
attic,
hold your pieces of work a spare room, the
wood
firmly.
The basement,
shed, and the barn sug-
gest possibilities for fitting up a good workshop, but in Selecting a Suitable Place there are several important
things to consider. it
The shop should have good
light,
should be dry, to prevent your stock from getting wet
THE HOME WORKSHOP and your
from rusting, and
tools
it
-
3
should be located
conveniently, so that material can easily be carried in
enough away from the living-room and bedrooms so that your hammering will not disturb any one. Of course, some of you will have no choice in the matter and will have to take any place you can and
and
out,
get,
but in this case
far
for the time being
turn up later on.
ment or
attic,
it
make
the best of
the conditions
and perhaps something better will If you locate your shop in the basebe a good idea to partition
will
off
a space as large as you will need and provide a door
with a padlock which can be locked
from being
tampered with
building of a partition illustrated
Gas off, it
or
will also
2),
over
175.
within
nearest
the
electric fixture (see
to
If
there
isn't
the space
any
partitioned
be a good plan to run a piece of rub-
ber tubing from
from an
Light
The
by younger hands.
described on page 149 and
is
by Figs. 172 to Electric
keep things
to
when
or
a
drop-cord
photograph opposite page
a point near the
so you can have light
gas-jet,
left
end
of
your bench,
the days are dark or when-
ever you wish to work in the evening.
can be bought
Cabinet-made Benches large stores
where
tools
$50, but one of these will
at
any
of the
from $7.50 to serve your purposes no better are
sold,
for
than the old-fashioned
Home-made Bench ter shop.
One
to be
of these
found
in almost every carpen-
can be made by any boy, out
of
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
4
The well-made
whitewood.
or
cypress,
pine,
benches have maple tops, but
it is
cabinet
not necessary to go to
the expense of buying maple for your bench, as softer
Dressed
material will do just as well. or 2-inch stock for the rails
;
may
ij-inch,
i-inch,
be used for the top, 2-by-4-inch stuff
framework, and i-inch boards for the aprons and
4-by-4-inch stock
" 2-by-4's "
is
often used for bench legs, but
enough and generally
are plenty heavy
easier
to get.
shows
Figure
i
A
Work
feet
Solid
Bench,
2 feet
8 inches high, with a top 5
This
long and 24 inches wide.
make your bench would
like to
if
have
is
you are crowded it
longer,
it is
a
good
for room.
size to
you
If
a simple matter to add
whatever you wish to the lengths given for the different pieces,
you,
and
it is
the vise. ferent
if
you
find that
it
is
going
to
be too high for
making
easy enough to saw off the legs before
Figure
members
2
shows the framework with the
lettered.
Cut the four legs
A
dif-
feet
2
8 inches long, less the thickness of the crosspieces (if inches) and the top, the 2-by-4-inch crosspieces 22-inches
long, the
end
rails
C
B B
22 inches long by
inches wide, and the front and back
rails
D4
feet
3^ long
by 3f inches wide. Spike crosspieces B to the tops of the legs, and rails C to the sides 8 inches from the lower ends
;
then stand the frames thus formed on end
and connect them by means and a rear apron {E, Fig. 2) 5
of rails
D,
Cut a
feet long, out of
front
lo-inch
Fig.
I.
— a Solid Work Bench
Fig.
2.
— Detail of Framework. 5
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS saw
boards,
off the
ends on the diagonal as shown, and
then either nail or screw them to the bench legs, placing them with their top edges even with the top of crosspieces
B
and with
their
ends projecting the same
The
tance beyond the ends of the bench framework.
bench top may be made
of three pieces 8 inches wide, or
Cblock out-
SOCKET_
of
'^
back of leg
screwis not threaded N AS FAR BACK \ AS SHOWN
any combinawidths
tion
of
that
will
up a
total of
if
JN
I
dis-
FIG. 4.
inches,
make 24
and these
pieces should be
fastened to cross-
B
iffi-'
pieces
with
screws. Counter-
sink Fig. Figs. 3-5.
Fig.
4.
— Details of the Bench-vise.
bench by
fitting pieces
aprons, as
shown
Figures
3.
3, 4,
in Fig.
and
5
heads.
screw-
Finish
the ends of the
lo-inch board between the
i.
show
Cut
The Bench-vise.
of
the
the details for
\}c\Q,jaw
making
about 31 inches long out
of a piece of i^-inch or 2-inch stuff 6 inches wide,
and
the sliding strip 3 inches wide and 14 inches long out of a
I
-inch board,
and bore ten
sliding strip about
shown. strip to
-l-inch holes
through the
J inch on centers and staggered
as
There are several ways of fastening the sliding the jaw, two of which are shown in Figs. 3 and 4.
THE HOME WORKSHOP By 3,
7
nailing the jaw to the end of the strip, as in Fig. is
it
necessary to mortise the bench leg for
slide through, while
the jaw, as in Fig. of the leg.
If
4,
if
you
it
to
set the strip into the side of
a pocket
must be
you mortise the
leg,
built
on
make
to the side
the mortise
about ^ inch larger all around than the strip, so there will be plenty of clearance, and locate the bottom of it 3 or 4 inches above the floor. strip to the jaw, slip the
After fastening the sliding
end through the mortise
— or
through the pocket, push the jaw up against the apron of the bench,
hold
it
An 4),
and drive a couple
circle
through
it
to
temporarily in place.
Iron Bench-screw, socket
If
and wooden handle
(Fig.
almost any hardware store for 50 this screw is ij inches in diameter, describe a
can be bought
cents.
of nails
at
i^ inches in diameter on the face of the jaw, 8
inches below the bench top, and then bore a hole of the
same diameter through the jaw, the apron, and the benchleg (see " Cutting Large Holes," page 142). With a chisel enlarge the hole on the inside face of the leg (you had better turn the
bench over upon
its
side to
do
this) so
the iron socket will set into the leg flush with the surface
;
then, after screwing the socket to the leg, trim the
hole in the jaw so the collar on the handle end of the
screw place.
will set flat against the jaw,
Some
of the
heavier stuff than
and screw the plate
in
bench-screws are made to go through
we have used
for the legs,
and
their
threads stop within 3 or 4 inches of the collar plate
;
in
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
8
becomes necessary to set the socket into an extra block of wood (Fig. 5) and to spike this block to the back of the leg; otherwise, the jaw would not close entirely. Trim off the top of the jaw even with the bench top and this case
it
bevel the outer edge (Figs,
and
i
4),
then remove the
Cut a peg to fit in the holes in the sliding strip, and whenever you use the vise, stick this peg into the proper hole to keep the bottom of the jaw from pushing in farther than the upper portion the jaw must temporary
nails.
;
be kept vertical in order to
make
grip a piece of
it
wood
squarely.
Bore several rows of J-inch holes through the front apron, as
shown
in Fig.
i,
and cut a peg
to
fit
in
This peg may be adjusted to support the end
them. of
any
length of board placed in the vise.
Never clamp screws,
nails,
or other pieces of metal in
your vise without placing them
wood, as they
will cut
first
up the face
between blocks of jaw and bench
of the
apron and soon make the vise unfit to hold your nice work.
An
It is
a
good plan
Iron Vise for metal
to
have
work
;
one
of these
chased for from 50 cents to $1 and
may
the right end of your bench (Figs,
and
i
can be pur-
be screwed to 6).
Figure 6 shows
A Work simple to
Bench with Tool Drawers, which
make
on the upper
and
rails of
slide into the
almost as
The drawers
as the one just described.
are grocery boxes
is
ends of the bench
the framework (Fig.
7).
The bench
Fig. 6.
— A Work Bench with Tool Drawers.
Fig.
7.
— Detail of Framework.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
lO
illustrated
is
6 feet long, 24 inches wide, and
inches high, but as mentioned before you these dimensions to suit your conditions, and to
make
feet 8
2
may change if
you prefer
a cabinet for your tools instead of keeping
in the bench, the
may be
drawers
them
used to hold supplies.
Figure 7 shows the framework of the bench. Make the end frames as described for the other bench, fasten
them 4 feet 2 inches apart with the front and back rails D, and then cut the upper rails which form the drawer slides and nail them to the legs 8 inches below If you cannot find boxes of the proper crosspieces B,
E
size for
The Tool Drawers, larger boxes may be cut down, or you can build up drawers to
removable
fit.
Provide the drawers with
trays,
such as are described for
the tool-chest
shown
Nail two guide
bottom
of the
Fig.
8.
— Box
Tool Drawer,
nail
(^, Fig.
strips
{G,
Fig. 8)
wooden handle
two striking blocks 7)
to
page
31.
to the
drawers and fasten an iron
drawer-pull or a
Then
Fig. 43,
in
to the front. to the
back
prevent the drawers from
pulling out of the bcnch, and two cross-
pieces {F) in the proper places to stop the drawers
when
they have been pushed in flush with the ends of the bench.
A
Figure 6 shows
Tool Tray recessed in the bench top
ment, as
it
— a good arrange-
provides a place to lay tools while working.
This top may be made by placing a 12-inch plank along
THE HOME WORKSHOP
II
the front of the top, an 8-inch board back of
piece of 2-by-4 back of that again
(Fig.
9),
it,
and a
and then
blocking out the ends of the
board flush with the top
To finish off
the planking.
the ends of the bench, strips
of
fit
in
around the drawers.
Fig.
9.
— Plan
Before adjustable bench-
Bench Top with Tool Tray. for a
upon the market, a carpenter had to devise various makeshifts for shoving work against for planing and for other operations, and as many of these are still in
stops were put
use,
I
am going
to show^
you a few
of the
good forms
of
Home-made Bench-stops, so in case it is not convenient to buy an iron stop, you can equip your bench with one Fig.
Fig. 12.
II
Fig
~"~—
Fig. 14.
^^
/
^->
13.
Fig.
Figs. 10-14.
of these. strip
of
The
stop
— Home-made Bench-stops.
shown
wood, which
10.
is
in Fig. 10 consists of a short
screwed in place to the bench
12
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
top, arid the
screw-heads are cotmtersunk as a protection
for
your edge
removed when you wish
easily
Figure
clear.
This
it.
By screwing
tools.
will
Screw stops
the strip in place,
it is
have the bench top
to
shows a block with a " V " notch cut in hold the ends of narrow pieces of work. 1 1
(Fig.
12) are a favorite form, as they are
by giving them a few
easily adjusted to a required height
turns with a screw-driver.
The peg
stops
shown
in Fig.
13 have a big advantage in the fact that they are quickly
removed.
Bore twof-inch holes through the bench, cut
the pegs to
fit
them so they may be adjusted to different pieces of work, and drive
loosely in
the proper heights for in a
hammer
pegs
to hold
14
is
wedge, or a
them
wooden wedge,
in position.
similar to that
shown
in
The
at the side of the
stop
shown
in Fig.
Fig. 10, except that
it
is
held in place with bolts instead of screws.
Get two f-inch carriage-bolts about 4 inches long, and cut several strips of
wood about 8 inches long and
of different
Bore two |-inch
thicknesses.
holes, 5
inches apart, through the bench top and Fig. 15.
— An
Ad-
justable Bench-stop.
heads.
,i
i
Strips for the bolts to ,
,
•
i
r
j_i
drop i
ij.
through, and countersmk tor the bolt-
This stop
changed 15
through the
to suit
is
may
be inter-
of different thicknesses.
Figure
handy, as the strips
work
shows
An Adjustable Bench-stop which pin
in the center of this stop is
50 cents. The released by giving the
retails for
THE HOME WORKSHOP screw marked
may
A
13
a few turns with a screw-driver, and
be set to the proper height for your work and
dropped flush with the plate when not
in use.
Mortise
the bench top for the stop, and set the plate flush with the top.
The
other shop equipment
ing chapter.
is
described in the follow-
Better
may be
results
obtained with a few tools of
the best quality than with an entire outfit of cheaper
grade.
Remember
that, boys,
when
Purchasing Tools, and be sure that you get those
made
by reliable manufacturers instead of the toy variety, for
though they
will
wearing qualities run.
You
will
will find
able form of
work
considerably more, their better
cost
make them cheaper
in the long
new-fangled tools for every conceiv-
modern carpenter
in the
not imagine for a minute that
it
is
shop, but
do
necessary to have
these in order to perform the operations for which they are especially
made.
A
good mechanic can complete
almost any kind of a job with a handful of special tools
do the work so very much quicker that they
are adopted as time-saving devices,
many
but
tools,
and usually are worth
times their cost in a large shop.
Unless you have received instruction in manual ing, the variety of styles
made may make
and
sizes in
which
train-
tools are
the selection of an outfit difiicult
to provide 14
;
so
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
A Handy and
15
Guide for Purchasing, the more desirable forms
which an amateur
sizes of all the tools
is
ever likely
have been described and illustrated upon the
to require
following pages.
A
hammer, saw, plane, chisel, jack-knife, screw-driver and square are mentioned
hatchet,
and brace, "
The Boy Craftsman
"
Fissure 16
can.
A
start,
shows
in
as
The Principal Tools which a boy requires. not afford more at the
bit
If
you can-
add to them as soon as you
illustrations of
Small Outfit which a boy will find
kind of ordinary carpentry.
Every
suflficient for
any
tool in this outfit is
an important tool and one which you will find necessary
As your money
for general use. to
add
permits, you will wish
to these tools several sizes of chisels
and
bits,
one
or two saws, and such other tools as are used in advanced
work, and in this
way you can
increase your outfit, until
before long you will have a fairly complete set of tools of
which you may be proud. First of
all,
Jack-knife.
you
will
By
this
need a good is
not meant a four-blade pocket-
knife with a polished pearl handle, but just a knife, strongly
made, and having blades
tempered so they
will
hold an edge.
common
of steel properly
A
two-blade knife
with wooden handle similar to that shown in Fig. 16 a desirable
form
for all-round work,
medium-priced knife with blades steel.
and
of a
is
made
is
in a
good quality
of
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
i6
For general use
A
Hatchet with a claw (Fig. i6)
one without, as
it
may be used
Fig.
1
6.
for
— A Small Tool
is
to be preferred to
withdrawing
nails as
Outfit.
The most important tools, showing desirable forms and sizes. Additional tools may be selected from those shown and described upon the following pages, as your money permits and your work requires their use.
well as driving them. of
medium weight and
In buying a hatchet, select one see that
it
balances nicely
when
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT you swing to
for,
it,
handle and
This
lessly.
A
unevenly balanced,
if
it
is
a point also to be looked out for in
Hammer.
— and
—
An
it
to loosen
it
does not
possible get one with the head
if
fastened on with patent-lock wedges which possible for
buying
Get a medium-sized claw hammer, either
with a bell face (Fig. 16) or a plain face,
matter which,
cumbersome
out the hand and arm muscles need-
tires
is
17
and
make
im-
it
fly off.
ordinary
Tack Hammer
ha-ndy for working in small corners,
is
A
but can easily be dispensed with for ordinary work.
much more
hammer
useful
shown
is
the
for prying boxes apart, but also for
handy not only driving and withdraw-
may
be used for numerous
Crate Opener
in Fig. 17,
ing tacks and small nails. small
jobs,
'
and
its
venient size makes sible to carry
it
it
It
con- ^^ ^_^ pos-
about
Nail-set
is
Fig.
^
-
FigTisT
required .
-
low the surface before finishing is
Fig.
of
it.
work
A
16.
You
will
cut iron nail
find
it
-Crate Opener.
— W^ooden Mallet.
may
be used, but
regular nail-set
handy
for finishing-nails^ the other for It is
17.
Fig. 18.
,
not as satisfactory as the
Fig.
17.
'
for drivincr nail-heads be.
is
in
one's hip pocket.
A
which
to
have two
common
shown sizes,
it
in
one
nails.
advisable to have
A Wooden
Mallet (Fig.
18) for
mortising and cutting
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
i8
where
it is
use of a
This
is
necessary to drive the chisel or gouge, as the
hammer soon also useful for
and other
The Cross-cut Saw (Fig. teeth
^
the end of the handle.
knocking together the members
halved^ mortise-aiid'tenon^
grain of wood.
down
splits
It will
joints.
made
i6) is
to cut across the
also cut with the grain, but as the
work
are not properly prepared for ripping, the
When money
slower to do.
of
permits,
is
you should add a
22-inch
Rip-saw to your
outfit.
Compass-saw (Fig.
i6)
The is made
i
especially for cutting
curves, the teeth being filed to cut with as well as across
the grain, and finer
it
handy
is
saw which you may prefer
Keyhole-saw,
made
would imply, and used is
often
made
to
fit
fits
in
2l
to the
name
for various other small jobs.
This
handle similar to that
of the
in a
common form
pad, as shown in Fig.
saws which you
want
will
compass-saw is the
for cutting keyholes as the
compass-saw, but the more
which
A
sawing thin wood.
for
to
add
19.
the one
Other forms
your
to
is
outfit as
of
soon
as possible are the
Back-saw, shown in Fig. 59, a saw made with fine teeth (get one with fourteen teeth to the inch) and intended for very fine cutting
cutting tenons,
etc.,
— such
as for
making
miter-joints,
and either a
Coping-saw or Bracket-saw (Figs. 20 and 21) for saw^
See notes regarding the teeth of the Cross-cut
page 21 of " The Boy Craftsman."
Saw
and the Rip-saw on
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT ing very thin wood, such as that of cigar boxes.
own
you
answer the purposes
will
it
of both of the
shop use.
latter for
iron
If
a
Scroll-saw,
A
19
Jack-plane (Fig. 16) fitted with a s7noo thing-plane is
to be preferred to a smoothing-plane,
must be chosen, for (bottom face) makes
long
its
if
one plane
sole
easier to
it
plane up a surface without hollowing
it.
This plane, thus equipped,
may be used thicknesses of
moving
both reducing
for
and
material
re-
tindressed surfaces
purpose
the
of
(the
jack-plane),
up surfaces
well as planing
dJL
as
true Fig
and smooth
(the
purpose
its
out the
19.
jack-
Fig. 20.
cutting edge
Fig. 21.
slightly rounded, instead of like the
the Fig.
The
smoothing-plane). plane iron has
of
smoothing-plane
a surface.
it
— Keyhole-saw. — Coping-saw. — Bracket-saw.
being ground straight across
iron, in
order to
wood and thus reduce thicknesses
will readily see that
19.
make
it
gouge
quickly, so you
cannot be expected to straighten up
Of course you can buy the two
irons
and make
the plane the equivalent of a jack- and a smoothing-plane.
The Stanley "Bailey" the illustration
is
adjustable iron plane
in
a better form to purchase than the old-
fashioned plane with a wooden stock, as adjusted.
shown
The No.
5
size (Fig.
16) is
it
is
so easily
14 inches long
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
20
As soon
and about the right length.
as
you can do
so,
buy a Smoothing-plane In addition to the jack-plane, for the
two planes
save you a considerable
will
for the
the
has an
purpose
jack-plane
1
8-inch
sole,
and
made long
is
removing the high places
of
and
straightening
the
left
many
may
it
Among
by the amateur.
by
before
surface
smoothing up with the smoothing-plane, but easily be dispensed with
of ad-
The
justment of the cutting irons. Fore-plane
amount
the
other forms of planes upon the market, you will
find a
making
Rabbet-plane (Fig. 22), useful in cabinet
for
—
rabbeting your work (Fig. 75, page 59 the plane-iron, or cutter, can be adjusted to any desired width of rabbet up inches), Fig. 22.
— Rabbet-plaac.
to
\\
and the
Dado-plane
made
for
59).
As
(Fig.
which
23),
grooving (Fig. the
75,
plane-stock
is
page the
of
dado-plane must be of the same size as the cutter, Fig. 23.
— Dado-plane.
which you
will
likely wish to
course,
if
you
it is
necessary to select
one having the width
have the greatest need,
you
will
purchase more than one dado-plane. live
near a
mill,
you can get
rabbeting and grooving done there, and
you
for
of cutter for
to bother with
it,
it
will
or to purchase these
all
of
not
Of your
hardly pay
tools.
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT It is
good plan
a
Ratchet-brace in so
many
to invest in a
when buying
a bit-stock, as
when boring
makes
it
The
possible to so set the brace
a hole or driving a screw in a corner
or close to something which prevents a
handle
can be used
it
places where an ordinary brace cannot.
ratchet arrangement that,
21
may be worked back and
full
forth.
sweep, the
Buy
a brace
with at least an 8-inch sweep; a shorter
sweep than
this
does not give sufficient
8
fl
leverage.
A
f-inch and a f-inch auger-bit are in-
cluded
among
the tools
shown
in Fig. 16. d
Of
course,
it
is
often necessary to bore
Fig. 25.
holes of other sizes, and
I
as
Auger-bits J inch, -| inch, f inch, and inch in size should be added to these
you
need
find
of
them.
and the number
of six-
stamped upon the shank.
Fig-
in Y^g-inch sizes,
Fig.
made
Bits are
24.
Fig. 24.
— Expan-
sive-bit.
teenths
is
Fig.
ure 24 shows an Expansive-bit, the small size of which
two cutters
— one adjustable
25.
— Wood
Drill Bit.
is
to bore holes
provided with
ranging from
^ inch to I" inch and the other from |- inch to ij inches; and the large size with two cutters one boring holes
—
from
-|-
inches. is
inch to if inches, the other from
By
inches to 3 having one of the large sizes of these bits it i|-
not necessary to buy auger-bits larger than | inch.
This tool
is
very convenient for boring large hol^s, but
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
22
Is
not required, as holes larger than
may
i
inch In diameter
be cut as described on page 142 and Illustrated in
Figure 25 shows a
Fig. 156.
Wood Drill Bit. This Is made In -^^'i^^^ sizes, running from -^ Inch (No. 2) to || inch (No. 14). Unless you have an automatic
a few of these will be required
drill
hard wood.
for drilling holes for screws in
They
are
very delicate tools and "twist off " very easily, and must not be removed from a hole by reversing the brace, but
by continuing on the head loosened
to turn
It
same direction, pulling up the same time until It has
In the
of the brace at
Itself.
Brad-awls are the simplest and cheapest tools manu-
(Fig. 16).
making very small holes They are sold in various
which
be useful.
factured for
will
for nails sizes,
and screws
one or two
of
A
Scratch-awl differs from a brad-awl in the end, which is
pointed instead of chisel-shaped.
It is
used for mark-
ing work, but a jack-knife will serve the purpose just as well.
A
Hand Gimlet
(Fig. 16)
is
also
handy
for boring small
holes.
For countersinking screw-heads below the surface piece of
wood you should have
Rose Countersink Bit to
This
is
fit
of a
a in
your brace (Fig.
16).
used after a screw hole has been bored, and
bevels off the edge of the hole
head drop below the
surface.
enough
to let the screw-
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
An Automatic screws and
It is
in
With
size
come
used largely for drilling holes for
and
finishing-nails,
from
especially
is
handy
for
where even a ratchet-brace cannot be
drilling in places
used.
convenience and time
Drill is a great
saver (Fig. 26).
23
this tool
furnished eight
is
drills,
varying
inch to -^ inch, which
-^^
either in the handle or in an extra
A
box.
handier tool than
this,
costing about twice as much,
may
This
a
is
Screw-driver
Spiral-ratchet
(Fig.
27).
be set to drive or withdraw by
moving a small
s/ide to
one end or the
other of a slot on the side, or
may be locked driver
though
make
to
spiral
a ratchet screw-
by giving the milled
the slide a half turn.
tlie
shell just
below
Three screw-drivers
different sizes are included with this
of
tool,
and a chuck to hold
with eight sizes of
drills,
drills,
may
be purchased
small additional amount, which
for a
serve the double purpose of
drill
the spiral-ratchet screw-driver
with
together
if
makes
this
and screw-driver.
may
tool
But
easily be dispensed
you have an ordinary 6-inch
Hand Screw-driver and a medium-sized Screw-driver Bit (Fig. 16).
A 16.
|-inch chisel
This
is
size will
included in the outfit
be found best for a
soon require a smaller chisel
— one
shown
starter.
in Fig.
You
will
about \ inch wide,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
24
and when you have advanced with your work you
will
find that at least five
—
Firmer Chisels, the kind made for ordinary light work,
—
will ^ inch, | inch, J inch, ^ inch, and i inch, For any very heavy work, such as outside be necessary.
sizes
building,
you
Framing
will also require a
or Mortising Chisel,
purpose
for this
— i^ inches
which
or
i|-
is
made stronger
Some
inches wide.
upon the face edges of the blade to make them handy for getting into corners (Fig. 28). For cutting curved grooves and curved
firmer chisels are beveled
surfaces a
A
Gouge
is
required.
lar to a chisel is
This
except that
is
simi-
blade
its
curved instead of straight (Fig.
29). will
A
|-inch and a f-inch
answer most purposes.
gouge Chisel
and gouge handles are rounded on Fig. 28.
Fig. 29.
Fig. 30.
Beveled
Gouge.
Cold-
the ends for hand use (Fig. 29), but
chisel.
for heavier work,
Chisel,
where a mallet
is
necessary, they should be protected by a leather cap (Fig. 16) or a metal ferrule (Fig. 28), to
from
splitting.
handle (Fig. 29) but those
The is
gouge which fits into the strong enough for hand use (yparing)^
made with
chisel or
sockets for the handles to
(Fig. 28) are better for mortising
driving
is
keep the wood
necessary.
A
fit
into
and other work where
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT Cold-chisel (Fig. 30)
good you can do so. and
A
a
is
surfaces. fully,
It
wood
of
in
is
as
is
paring with a it
your
outfit
for quickly
and
when
reducing a
for cutting curved
care-
wood
more than danger
the
is
Fig. 32.
A
hatchet.
Spoke-shave (Fig. 32) surface after
to
will follow
it
apt to split off
desired,
add
handy
is
must be used
however, as
to
in thickness
the grain of a piece of
is
you
Draw-knife (Fig. 31)
narrow piece
and
often needed for cutting metal
is
tool for
25
— Spoke-shave.
used to smooth up a curved
has been roughly cut with a draw-knife, hatchet, or chisel, just as the smooth-
n n n
ing-plane
is
used
smooth up
This
straight surface.
pensive tool and to
to
will
may
Half-round
not an ex-
be of more use
you than a draw-knife
A
is
a
buy
;
Wood-file
it first.
(Fig.
be used for smoothing up
sorts of irregular surfaces
and
is
16) all
the
best kind to purchase for a small outFig. 33.
— Five Handy
Forms of in Fig.
'^i
fit
of tools.
The
Handiest Forms of Files are shown
Files.
The wood-rasp
is
a very coarse
file
for
wood
working, while the rattailfile, the slim taper file, and the flat metalfile are for metal work.
made with
A
finer teeth
wood-file
and are intended
must not be used upon
/ HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
26
metal,
as
it
not
is
made
for cutting
surfaces
harder
than wood.
For laying out work a Two-foot Folding Rule (Fig. i6)
a try-square or a carpenter s square
and either
required,
is
is
necessary for lay-
ing out lines at right angles to another line or to the
edge
of
a piece
of
work, for testing corners to
see
whether or not they are square, and for testing surfaces for irregularities.
The
writer prefers a
Try-square with a mitered handle (Fig.
45 degrees
may
be laid out with
it.
The
i6), as lines at
large size of
Carpenter's Steel Square has a body (the long end) 24
inches long and a tongue (the short end) 18 inches long;
but a smaller size with a body 18 inches long and tongue
1
long (Fig. 16)
your pur-
will serve
pose just as well and to ;
buy and
a—
lighter to handle.
grees, for laying out bevels,
and
for re-
producing angles upon several pieces Bevel.
of work.
It is like
instead of being fastened rigid
it
is
a try-square, only
made
adjustable.
can easily do without this tool for ordinary work, but
will
A
be cheaper
Bevel (Fig. 34) is a handy tool for laying out angles other than 45 de-
Pig. 34.
it
inches
A
o','-
You
will
2
be useful when you get into advanced work.
Marking-gauge (Fig. 16) consists of a block of wood (the head) through which slides a graduated stick (the
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
27
bar) with a point (the spur) near one end (see Fig. 68,
page
The head may
52).
be set to any desired distance
from the spur, then by placing the head against the edge of a piece of work and pushing the spur along the surface,
a
line
and
parallel to
The
can be scratched which
will
at the required distance
be exactly
from the edge.
marking-gauge has only one spur; that Fig. 68 has two spurs, is what is known as a
ordinary
shown
in
mortise-gauge (see "Gauging," page 52), and
is
the better form to buy.
Wing number
Dividers (Fig. 35)
of operations, but are
The
in
thu7nb-screws
handy
for a
used principally
and laying
for describing circles
ments.
come
make
off it
measure-
possible to
adjust the dividers very accurately to any desired
measurement.
of these
through
you may use a it,
stick with a couple of nails driven
or a piece of cardboard with a pencil and pin
pushed through
may
Until you can get a pair
wing Dividers,
it,
for
a compass, and
measurements
be laid off by means of a rule, a straight-edge (a
stick with a straight edge), or a piece of paper.^ /
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
28
but
level,
useless
is
It
up whatever your piece But a testing.^ is
^^^a^
^ Fig.
37.
of
rests
upon
before
is
'^'])
tions can be performed
Odd-jobs
— Pocket
shown
in
three operations
the
Level.
work
level
handy for getting approxicheap enough so every boy can own one. A tool with which ten different opera-
Pocket Level (Fig.
mate levels and
the shop unless you
in
illustration,
employed
it
may
is
the
Besides
Fig. 38.
indicated
in
the
be
as a tnarking-
gauge, a 7norlis e-gauge, depth-gauge,
a
square,
a
scratch-awl, Fig.
38— Odd-jobs.
with the
which a
^^
tool).
this tool
handy one
^^.j^^j^
a
try-
T-square,
a
and a rule
^^^^^
^^j^^
The many purposes for may be used make it
to carry
about for "odd
jobs."
A
Pair of Cutting Pliers (Fig. 16) will
serve as pincers and nippers.
Besides
these you will often be in need of a
Wrench
(Fig. 39) for tightening
and
Fig.
39.- Wrench,
loosening nuts, and other operations; this will be a good addition to ^
page
A
make
satisfactory
153.
to
your
outfit
when you can
home-made plumb-board
for large
work
afford is
it.
described on
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT For holding together glued-up work
29
until the glue
has
set a pair of
Wood Handscrews
(Fig. 40)
are handy, as are also
a pair of
Cabinet-maker's Clamps
glued-up pieces
;
(Fig.
41)
for
holding
wide
n
but you can dispense with
^
both of these by providing yourself with several
Home-made Clamps of different lenorths similar to those shown in Fig. 42. These consist of two strips with two blocks of wood A and B screwed to them 4 or 5
^^Z
J
n Fig. 40.
— Wood
Handscrews.
inches farther apart than the width of the glued-up piece of
N
-y Fig. 41.
— Cabinet-maker's ^^^"^P^"
1
work.
edge
of
Taper
its
Fig. 42.
inner
blocks A, but leave
that of blocks
B
square.
The
work
upon the
strips
is
laid
with one edge against blocks B, then a strip against
the
other edge for
2.
filler,
and a pair
is
of
placed
wedges
— Home-made Clamps for Holding Glued-up Work.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
30
with one edge square and the other cut to
on the edge
A
of blocks
are driven in
fit
the taper
between the
filler
Care must be taken to prevent the
and the blocks.
edges or the center of the work from springing up, when "
driving
home
"
the wedges, or the surface will be wind-
ing when the work
A is
removed.
is
Grindstone can usually be dispensed with, as grinding
not often required
tools
and when
;
it
friendly carpenter
proper care
if
is
taken of the edge
necessary you can usually find a
is
who
will
allow you to use his stone.
But you must have a good Oilstone.
Of the manufactured stones the India
oil-
being very extensively used, while the Lily-
stone
is
white
and the
Rosy-red
Washita oilstones are two
the best natural stones on the market.
Besides an
of
oil-
stone you must of course have an Oiler
and a
bottle of sperm-oil
or sewing-machine lubricating If
you have not
work bench
built tool
and
(Figs. 6
— or bicycle, automobile,
oil.
drawers
7),
in the
ends of your
you must make a chest or
cabinet as soon as possible to protect your tools from injury and from being borrowed without your permission."
When a boy, he
A
the author received his
first outfit of
tools
when
made
Tool-chest out of an old grocery box, this being the
best material at to turn this
box
hand
;
and as
into a chest
well he has decided to
tell
it
and
was such an easy matter it
served the purpose so
you boys how
to
make one
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
31
Figure 43 was drawn from this old chest, which the author still has in his possession. The box
just like
it.
used was, approximately, 26 inches long, 13 inches wide,
and 9 inches deep, but yours need not be
Fig. 43.
— A Grocery-box Tool-chest.
dimensions, only be sure
your large
of these exact
it is
long enough to accommodate
tools.
After selecting your box, renail replace any that
happen
to
be
all
split
loose boards
and
with pieces from
another box.
Fasten together the cover boards with a
batten at each
end {A, Fig. 44) and hinge to the box Buy a hinge-hasp strap-hinges as shown.
with a pair of
32
Fig. 45.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT well,
then give the inside and the tray a coat of boiled
and the outside a coat
linseed-oil
A
33
plan for an easily
Tool Cabinet
This
Craftsman."
made
illustrated
is
of paint or oil stain.
and described
a very simple affair
is
in "
The Boy
made out
of a
box with the cover boards battened together for a door. The author has been asked for a plan for making a paneled door for a cabinet, and as others of you
wish
panel
to
the
door, to
make
a
may
also
neater-appearing
you follow the directions given the Music Cabinet described on
cabinet, he suggests that for
making the door
of
page 124 (see Fig. 137), which a boy to make a paneled door.
A
tool
cabinet
if
is
the simplest
way
for
the handier receptacle for keeping
is
tools within easy reach
a chest
is
;
but
to be preferred
the tools must be carried
about, which
is
often neces-
shop
sary where
the
located in a
damp
place, to
keep them from
rusting.
In case you
A back
make
is
a chest,
Tool-rack on the wall of the
bench
arrangement ^
for
is
a
good
holding^ °
Fig. 46. — A Tool-rack, you are In the photograph opposite page 2 is shown working. such a rack, and Fig. 46 shows how it may be put ,
the
tools
,
.,
while
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
34
The
together.
chisels, auger-bits,
wood
and
drills, awls,
screw-driver stick into the holes bored through the bottom shelf,
and the ends
Nails and spools
small bracket fastened below the shelf.
hold the other tools. see
supported by a
of the small bits are
In the
same photograph you
how boxes may be bracketed
will
to the wall for
Open Shelves for your paint-cans, varnishes, and other
may be supported above rack for miscellaneous articles; also how the under of the work bench may be utilized for supplies,
and how a
the
shelf
part
Material Boxes by fastening boards across the rails to
hold them. Nails
and screws should be kept
order, so the sizes
some kind
in
of
wanted may be got quickly without unnecessary ing,
hunt-
and several
re-
ceptacles for these are
shown
47 to
52.
in Figs.
The
Partitioned
Box will
Fig. 48.
Figs. 47-49.
47-49)
hold six
differ-
SECT'ON
ent lengths of nails.
Fig. 49.
Cut the back and
— Details of Partitioned Nail Box.
(Figs.
Nail
bottom (A and
C,
Fig, 48) 3 feet long
by 8 inches wide, the front (B) the same length by 5 inches wide, and the partitions and end pieces (Z?, Fig.
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
35
49) 6 inches wide by 6 inches high at the back and 5 Nail together the front, back, inches high at the front.
and end
pieces, then nail
partitions
as
hung upon hooks.
wall or
fore putting
on the cover.
If
you screw
it,
do
this be-
Cut the hinge-strip {E, Fig.
place to the partition tops.
one piece, or
Mark
strip.
in
two
it
in
The cover may be made
in
as in Fig. 47; hinge
the sizes of the nails
and fasten
nails of
six
either be screwed to the
inch wide by the length of the box and nail
I
box,
box into
the
to divide
The box may
equal spaces.
49)
so
place
in
on the bottom and fasten the
it
to the hinge-
upon the
corresponding
front of the
sizes in front of the
receptacles with small staples or bent-over brads to help
you
associate
to
the
lengths
with
the
size
numbers.
This box has been planned for co?nmoii nails and to hold sizes
ranging from li inches to
3^-
inches long (4-penny
to i6-penny).
Another Box
may be made
to
hold fijiishing-nails,
papers of brads and tacks, and spikes
and 60-penny
nails).
Bolts and screws
(20-, 30-, 40-, 50-,
may
be kept
in a
third box.
Empty to get
tin
cans and cigar boxes are easy for any boy
and make excellent
Receptacles for Nails, Screws, and Brads.
There
is
a
which molasses and sirup comes (Fig. 50) that is very handy, and baking-powder cans and even tomato cans, if the solder around the rim
can with a removable
of their
opened end
lid
is
in
melted and the end pulled
off,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
36
The
purpose.
will serve the
by side on the
wall,
if
cans
may
be hung up side
mounted upon pieces
of
board
provided with screw-eyes or holes (Figs. 50 and 51).
mount
To
punch four holes through each and wire them to pieces of board as shown in Fig. 51. Cigar
may
boxes Fig. 50.
wooden
Fig. 51.
Can Receptacles Brads, and Screws
Figs. 50 and 51 for Nails,
the cans,
in pip-
be fastened upon
brackets
as
shown
co
After you
have
fitted
up
your workshop with a bench, shelving, racks, and receptacles,
are
and made a chest or cabinet
still
a
before you
number will
of pieces of
for
your
equipment
tools, there
to construct
be ready to
open up your shop
for busi-
ness.
Figure 53 shows A Horse which is very
much
handier than the simpler forms of carpenters' horses, in so far
as
the
board
broader surface
upon and the to lay
top to
shelf
gives lay
a
work
Fig. 52.
— Cigar-box
Receptacles
for Screws, Bolts, or Miscellane-
ous Hardware.
underneath makes a convenient place
saws and other
tools.
This horse
is
very com-
monly used by carpenters. Details for its construction are shown in Figs. 54, 55, and 56. Cut the body A 3
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
10 inches long out of a piece of 2-by-4, and cut the
feet
B
four legs I
37
-inch stuff,
dimensions shown in Fig. 55 out of with one edge to the
Trim
tapered f inch.
off
the upper ends of the legs
shown when the
as
ends apart.
56,
so
legs are nailed
body the
the
to
Fig.
in
be
will
Nail
16
the
lower inches legs
in ^^^- S3-
place about 5 inches from
— Horse.
the ends of the body, then cut the end rails (C, Fig. 54)
and the side
rails
D
and
inches wide
3
of the required
length and nail them to the legs 9 inches below the body.
Cut the tray bottom boards
>F^
to
fit
between the
rails
them
Fig. 54) and fasten
B
with nails driven through the
!-L
Fig. 55.
54.
FiGS. 54-56.
When
-Details of Horse.
the horse has been
probably find that
it
edges.
rails into their
F
Cut the top board
Fig. 56.
Fig.
(^,
feet
long
stuff
and screw
out
of it
4
i-inch to the
body, countersinking the
screw-heads
as a
protec-
^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^1^^ nailed
together,
does not stand evenly
—
at
you
will
any
rate,
the legs will not be cut to the right angle on the bottom
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
^S
and
not rest squarely upon the
will
trimming, an extra inch was added
place
will
it
occupy
your shop, so
in
may be made
out of level the horse
up the top
inch thick, slide
mark
it
;
length of the
in case the floor is
to stand evenly in that
and put a chip under
place, locate the short leg, to level
to the
allow for
Set the horse in the
pattern (Fig. 55).
legs, in the leg
To
floor.
it
so as
then take a block of wood about
around the bottom
of
each
leg,
i
and
a line across each face even with the top of the
Saw
block.
the legs off on these lines
;
and
if
the
work
has been done carefully, the horse will stand perfectly even.
If
pleting
it,
you find that the horse it
the legs as
will
much
is
too high after com-
be an easy enough matter to trim off as
is
necessary to
make
suit
it
your
heio^ht.
You to lay
should have two horses
in
your shop across which
long pieces of work for marking and sawing.
may be used make these. You will
course a couple of packing boxes
have plenty
of
time to
until
Of you
also find
that a chair will serve the purpose of
A
Saw-bench for small work about as well as a horse
would.
Such usage
will
however, unless the seat
be rather hard on the chair,
is
protected in
some way,
so
if
you want
A Chair
Saw-bench, prepare a wooden cover that can be
placed over the seat as shown in Fig. 57.
cover 20 inches long and
Make
this
16 inches wide; fasten the
boards tosrether at the ends with battens of
iust
the
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
Fig. 57.
39
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
40
enough
practice in sawing so you can
saw very accurately,
you had better have a carpenter cut these
A
Benoh-hook (Fig. 60)
is
used for a number of opera-
For paring with your
tions.
for you.
chisel
and chopping with
your hatchet protection
furnishes
it
bench
the
to
which would other-
top,
wise be cut up badly in a short time
is
it
;
handy
to
and other small
lay sticks
pieces on for sawing with
the back-saw, and by Fig. 6o.
right-
ing a right-angle kerf (slot
— Bench-hook.
made by
and a left-hand mitered kerf
and
of a piece of
in the stop strip
board about
nail the Jiook cleat to the
and the mitered stop
may
handle try-square easier to cut
The
them
(Fig.
1
2
it
may
Make
the
inches square,
under side
to the opposite
kerfs in the stop strip
and a
saw)
a
be used for sawing small work accurately.
bench-hook out
mak-
one edge
of
edge as shown.
The
be laid out with a mitered
67,
page
52),
but
it
will
be
in a miter-box.
operation of truing the edge of a board
as jointing or shooting,
and
to
is
known
hold the work and guide
the plane while shooting short, narrow pieces of work,
A Shooting-board
is
generally used.
show the construction out of
I
-inch stuff,
A
of
one
Figures 61 and 62
of these.
Cut the pieces
\\\ inches wide by 24 inches long,
TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT
B
inches wide by 24 inches long,
7-|
C
2
41
inches wide by
D
2 inches wide by 24 inches long. 7J inches long, and It is necessary to have the faces and edges straight and
true in order to it
make
possible to true up
other pieces of work
by means
of a shoot-
Bevel
ing-board. off the
lower right-
hand edge 62), it
of
then nail or screw
to board
A
with Fig. 61.
left-hand edges
the
Nail
flush.
C
B (Fig.
to
^
Figs. 61-62. — Shootinor-board.
strip
so that
its
end
exactly at right angles with
is
the right-hand edge of board B. left-hand
edge
In using
of
D
Nail strip
to the
board A.
upon the against the bench apron and
the shooting-board,
it
is
placed
strip
D
close
the end of board
A
shoved against the bench-stop, then
bench with
the board to be jointed
end against
C, w^hich
is
placed upon board
forms a
stop,
B
with one
and the edge
to be
planed projecting over the right-hand edge of board with the plane turned on
worked back and forth off
accurately.
The
its
side
upon board
until the
A
it is
of the plane
bevel on the edge of
and throwing
then
edge has been planed
B
forms a
groove which keeps small shavings from getting
way
B\
it
out of
line.
in the
m^a CHAPTER
III
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
you boys, no doubt, are studying manual training and learning the use of wood-working tools, how to select material, and how to lay out and carry to com-
Many
of
pletion a piece of work.
But the majority
not provide these advantages, and the course of
Instruction
many
only to
of schools
do
that do, furnish
boys of the higher
number of my readers are boys who must depend largely upon handicraft books and their own power of observation for a knowledge of how
grades, so that the greater
to
do things.
There are
all
sorts of things
which the average boy
can construct without having had instruction in the making of wood joints, and in putting together an article
and finishing
making
it,
but for any particular work, such as the
of furniture
or give away, you
and things which you wish
must understand how
order that the work
may
to
to sell
proceed In
not only be substantially con-
structed, but be pleasing to the eye as well.
The
sug-
gestions and pointers presented in this chapter are in-
tended to help you to attain these 42
results,
and those
of
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
43
you who are studying manual training will do well to read over the instructions, as you will likely find some-
new among them which will aid you in carrying out the work described in succeeding chapters. Every boy should, first of all, know something about thing
the Selection of
The
Working Material.
softer
woods
are
better for the beginner to use, as they are easier to work.
Of
hemlock, redwood, white-
these, pine, cypress, spruce,
wood, and basswood are probably best adapted to amateur work.
The
depends largely upon the
selection
certain varieties
than another.
locality,
being easier to procure in one place
Clear white pine
is
the choicest of the
woods for cabinet making and all other nice work, but is becoming so scarce that it is now almost impossi-
soft
many
ble to get in
parts of the country.
other very easily worked is
also good,
and can be had
whitewood (from the the
linden
The
latter
wood
tree)
the California
in very
tulip tree)
furnish
two woods
;
Cypress
is
an-
redwood
wide boards
;
and
and basswood (from
excellent
working material.
are close-grained, take stain ex-
ceedingly well, can be procured in boards of considerable width, and are especially
good material
amateur work, one feature
in their favor
that they are not easily split in nailing.
jectionable point
is
their
for
all
sorts of
being the fact
The only
ob-
great tendency to warp, but
warping may be prevented by cleating together wide pieces used in large work.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
44
work of It is cheap, easily worked, and the amateur craftsman. easier to finish than the more expensive woods, which
Of the hard woods, oak
very exact
require
is
best suited to the
workmanship, the slightest defect
showing through the highly polished or satin-finish surOak takes stain faces customarily put upon them. readily and looks best when treated in this way and then
waxed
— one
of
on successfully.
the finishes easiest for a boy
to
put
Ash, maple, cherry, birch, mahogany,
and walnut are other hard woods which you will likely have occasion to use later on when you have had more experience in your work.
Many
of
you boys have seen how logs are cut up into will
be well for
know something about the of Wood and how this must be
taken into
boards, planks, and heavier pieces, but all of
you
to
Structure
it
consideration in converting the log into lumber, as will
it
enable you to select and handle your material more
intelligently.
Figure 63 shows a cross-section
In the center, or generally a center,
is
rounding
a circular core
known
to
one side
of
the
as the pith, then sur-
known as annual rings, bark. The wood between
this is a series of circles
and around the outside each two
little
of a log.
rings
is
the
represents the
amount
of
one year's
growth, and the annual rings are produced as a result of the suspension of growth during
counting the rings of a tree.
The
it is
autumn and
winter.
By
very easy to determine the age
inner portion of the tree
is
known
as the
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING more
heart-wood and supplies the
45
and desirable
solid
material (unless the tree has started to decay, first
when
the
signs are generally to be found here), while the outer
wood
is
known
the sap-wood^
as
as
contains
it
the
greater portion of the tree's
In the cross-sections
juices.
63 and 64) you
of logs (Figs.
notice a
series
of
lines
radiating from the pith,
some
will
extending as far as the bark
Fig. 63.
Fig. 64.
Tree Structure.
Cracks in Loss.
and others running but part way.
These, called the viedtillary
formation in a tree and produce what
grain upon the surface
of all
are a peculiar
7'ays, is
known
as silver-
quarter-sawed wood.
The
must be taken into consideration in Cutting up the Log, and different methods of sawing are employed according to the purpose for which the wood is to be used. The common method of plain sazuing is shown in Fig. 65. tree structure
With
produced Fig. 65.
Plain-sawed.
is
Quarter-sawed.
illustration, that
When wood
the sawdust
and bark removed.
But you
by looking
at the
with the exception of one board taken
through the center boards
in
waste
Fig. 66.
will notice,
the
only
the
this
of the pith, the
obliquely
;
this
is
the
annual rings cross cause
of
drys out (seasons)^ the greatest
warping.
amount
of
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
46
shrinkage occurs along the Hne of the annual rings, therefore the longer the arc of the ring crossing the cross-sec-
tion of a board, the greater the shrinkage along that arc
and plain-sawed
will be,
lengths crossing
Warping
the result.
of
different
shrink unequally and warp
will
it,
having arcs
stuff,
is
more
as
noticeable, of course, in
wide than in narrow boards and must be taken care of by cleatmg or some other method of holding the wood in position.
The board sawing
cut from the center of the log in plain
the
is
only one which
To
marked degree.
grain to a
show the
will
get
silver-
this effect
upon
every board Quarter Sawing
is
necessary (Fig. 66).
sawed into quarters, then each quarter
is
The
log
sawed up
is first
radially
so the surface of each board will be parallel with the
medullary
A is
rays.
Strictly speaking, the quarter
shows the only proper method
of quarter sawing, as
the only one in which each board
rays,
but methods B, C, and
considerable waste of
sorted into different grades. fact
that
more time
quarter-sawed stock
sawed
The
stuff.
is
is
D are also
material,
marked
parallel with the
used, as they save
and boards so cut are
The
big waste, and the
required in the cutting,
much more
it
make
expensive than plain-
irregular pieces cut from between the
boards are usually utilized for moldings and other small pieces,
and
this
Besides the
reduces the amount of waste somewhat.
beautiful
markings, quarter-sawed boards
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
47
have the advantage of uniform shrinkage and are not likely to warp.
Knots
cup-shakes, heart-shakes,
^
and checks are defects
occurring in logs and produce a big waste in the manufacture of lumber.
The
portions containing these are either
away or, where not very marked, the boards cut from them are sorted into the poorer grades of lumber. First and second grades generally admit boards with small, cut
sound
— pin knots and standard knots, — but
Knots, to a
lumber yard or
mill for
your material, you
if
you go
will
prob-
ably be allowed to pick out pieces from the pile which are clear or
which have knots
in places
where they can
easily
be cut out without spoiling the boards for your purpose. Cracks, however, such as
Cup-shakes and Heart-shakes, the former being cracks
between the rings and the lary rays
latter cracks
(Fig. 64), should not
along the medul-
appear upon any boards
but those of the poorest grade of lumber, so do not dealer pass
them
off
on you for first-grade
stuff.
let a
Boards
are likely to split at the ends through drying out unevenly,
and these
rifts
are
known
as
Very long checks extending
Checks.
a board are not admitted in likely to occur
time and
is
a
first
entirely through
grades, but checking
is
even after the piece has seasonediox a long
common
fault with large
timbers where the
outside dries out long before the center.
After the boards have been cut,
it is
necessary that the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
48
sap be evaporated before they are
fit
The two
to use.
methods employed are known as up the boards
Seasoning, which consists in piling
large piles in the open, with narrow strips of
between each layer
to
throughout the
and leaving them
for
from two
pile,
in
wood placed
allow a free circulation of air
to four years,
in this position
and
method of which consists in piling similar manner in large chambers or
Kiln Drying, the best
up the lumber
in a
kilns 2iXidi passing condensed steam through and around the
boards for a period of two weeks, to open up the pores and cause the water to run out, and then shutting off the steam
and passing a forced circulation for another
The
two weeks.
on lumber used
of heated air
latter
for fine furniture
through them
method
is
employed
but as a rule material
;
for ordinary purposes remains in the kilns not over forty-
eight hours, and often a
this.
The
for the
wood,
much
of the
much shorter time than
slower the process of drying, the better
it is
for the reason that rapid drying destroys elasticity
On
and toughness.
fact that kiln-dried stock
is
this
more
sensitive to atmospheric
changes, weather-seasoned lumber
Lumber
is
spoken
account and for the
is
much
to be preferred.
of as
As produced from a log, it Undressed Stuff, and when the roughness Stock or
Stuff.
saw has been removed by the Dressed Stuff
only one side
is
(specified
D
smoothed,
it
planer,
it is
is
left
as
by the
called
upon material is
known
bills).
If
said to be surfaced-one-
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
49
two sides and one edge, surfacedtwo-sides-and-one-edge (marked S-2-S'&-i-E), etc.
side
(marked S-i-S)
;
if
Toiigued-and-grooved boards (Fig. 75) are
known
as
Matched Stuff (specified M), and when they are also beaded, they are said to be
Matched-and-Beaded (specified M-&'B). material
is
called ceiling,
and
is
The beaded
used for porch ceilings,
backs of pantry cases, wainscotings,
etc.
Lumber up to 2 inches thick (undressed) is known Boards, when 2 inches or more in thickness as Planks or Dimension more,
Stuff,
as
and when four inches or
called
it is
Timber Stock Sizes of Lumber. thickness and \ inch in
Boards are reduced \ inch in width from the original dimen-
must be taken into In some localities
sions in the process of dressing, which
consideration in this is is
laying out
w^ork.
allowed for in cutting up the log, but as a rule
Thus, a board
not.
in the rough,
i
inch thick and 12 inches, wide,
would be | inch thick and
wide when dressed, but as a matter of fact stock
now being sawed about -^
is
2
\\\ inches i-inch
all
inch under
i
inch,
only ^| inch thick when dressed. inches or more in thickness is reduced \ inch in
and as a Stock
it
result
dressing.
is
Thus, a 2-inch by 4-inch piece
is
only
if
inches thick and 3f inches wide when dressed. To avoid the use of fractions as much as possible, stock is
generally
known by
its
undressed dimensions, as follows:
-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
50
i-by-i 2-inch I
stuff,
2-by-4-inch stuff (or simply 2-by-4's),
-inch stock (generally spoken of as J-inch stock,
which
was the dressed thickness), etc. The regular thicknesses of dressed lumber are f inch (i-inch stock), originally
:
I inch (|-inch
stock), ^-f inch (i-inch stock),
i|-
inches
(ij-inch stock), if inches (if-inch stock), i| inches (2-inch
3I inches (4-inch), 5f inches (6-inch), yf inches (8-inch), etc., each succeeding width increasing 2 inches, and the standard
stock), etc., the widths are if inches (2-inch),
lengths run from 10 feet to 20 feet in even numbers. In Purchasing Material,
there
if
is
not a mill or lum-
ber yard near by where you can go and place your order
you can probably arrange with a friendly carpenter to buy your stock for you when he is purchasing direct,
some
for himself.
Make
out
A Mill List with the number of pieces of each size desired, the kind of wood, the dimensions (place the thickness
then the width, and dressing,
Pieces
last the
matchmg, beading,
first,
length) and the directions for etc.,
in the following order
:
—
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING Lumber
sold by the thousand feet (per M), so after
is
finding the existing retail price
it is
an easy matter
A
To Estimate the Cost of your material.
board
i
51
piece of
inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long
Upon
figured as a board foot.
this basis a piece
i
is
inch by
would contain 4 board feet, and a piece 2 inches by 4 inches by 12 feet would contain 8 board feet. Any thickness under i inch is figured the 4 inches by
same
1
2
feet
The
as i-inch stuff.
retail price ordinarily
covers
dressing, but matching, grooving, rabbeting, beading,
other machine
work
is
and
extra.
Before attempting any shop cabinet making, a boy
should spend some time
in
getting accustomed to hand-
work accurately, plane up a surface true and smooth, and saw " The Proper Handling of Tools " is described to a line. in " The Boy Craftsman," and it is not my intention to
ling his tools properly, so as to be able to
lay out
repeat these instructions here, only so far as essary to to cut
show
and
join
the right its
way
is
nec-
to lay out a piece of work,
various parts, and to finish
Laying Out Work.
it
its
surface.
Unless you lay out a piece of work
you cannot expect to turn out a satisfactory because nothing will fit, and if you are careless at the
accurately, job,
start,
well.
you
will likely
To
be careless in the other operations as
guard against mistakes,
it is
always best to
check up measurements as you go along. Use a 2-foot rule or a carpenter's square with which to lay off measurements, and a carpenter's square or try-square for
j-^r/^-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
52
mg lines
between points and carrying them around the (See Fig. 67; also Pla7i-
four sides of a piece of work. tjig
page
Exercise on
A
54.)
sharp
be
lead-pencil
used
may
scribing,
for
but the work can be
done more accurately with a jack-knife; however,
a knife line can
be made only upon surfaces
where
will
it
be
removed by cutting or concealed Fig. 67.
— Scribing with
Knife and Try-
piece of wood.
square.
When
scribe a line parallel to
operation
is
known
an edge
marking-gauge.
you wish
of a piece of
to
work, the
as
Figures 68 and 76 show
Gauging.
bv another
Suppose you wish
how
to
gauge with a
to cut a piece 3 inches
wide from a 4-inch You must first board. test it
one edge and true
up,
make
necessary, to
if
straight for a
it
working edge
(see
Plan-
ing Exercise)^ then place
the
head
of the
s^auffe ag^ainst this edsre
^ » Fig. with board, and the of
<^
<=>
<=>
,^
68.
— ^Gauging with a Marking-gauge ..u
^^r
(a Mortise-gauge).
1
•
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
53
the spur in the shaft pressed into the surface of the
wood
along the board for a
(Fig. 68), scratch a line
distance equal to the length of the piece to be removed;
upon the opposite face and you will then have a guide-line upon both faces to saw and plane to, which is exactly parallel to and at a distance of The gauge is also used 3 inches from the working edge.
also scribe the line
for laying out various
spur upon the shaft
forms of wood
joints.
of the mortise-gauge
is
The
double-
provided for
laying out the two sides of a mortise or groove
one operation (Fig.
in
76), the
outer spur being fixed and
made adjustby means of a thumb-
the inner one able
screw in the end of the shaft.
This form
of
gauge saves
lots of time, especially
you have a number tises or
when
of
grooves of one
morsize
to lay out.
Figure
69 shows
how
FiG. 69.
— Gauging with Pencil and
gauging may be done with
Carpenter's Square.
a pencil and carpenter's square.
Hold the body
of the
square against the edge of the work, with the tongue ex-
tended across the face upon which the line
and the pencil held against the edge
and then, with the fingers braced
as
is
to
be scribed
at the desired point,
shown
to hold the pen-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
54
move the square toward you with your left hand The same operation may be performed with a try-square and pencil. You will require some practice before you cil
steady,
be able to gauge successfully in this manner, but it is easy when you get
will
the knack of doing it.
A
cil
may
for
rule
and pen-
also be used
gauging,
shown
in "
as
is
The Boy
Craftsman."^ While these
methods
will
answer the purpose for
rough work,
marking-gauge
is
a to
be preferred for great accuracy. FiG. 70. Fig.
71.— Testing
Fig. 72.
For a Planing Ex-
— Testing with a Try-square.
— Testing
with a Carpenter's Square.
©fClSe
an Edge from the Working
of
take a piCCC
board about
inches long.
one
test
side,
eyes and of
the
The
12
F'irst,
holding the board on a level with your
sighting across
try-square
it
while you
move
the edge
along the entire length (Fig.
70).
and you
will
square will strike the high places
them
be able to distinguish
as
the light
will
beneath the edge of the square, in the hollows. 1
Page 43.
show Locate
;
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
55
the high portions as you pass over them, by drawing
them
a line around
Also
A
good
by means
is
of exactly the
test,
winding (twisting
in
of ^j-^.
Get two pieces
same
size for the sticks.
Winding-sticks (Fig.
the
Fig. 70, so you will
71).
w^ay to test a board for
the length)
molding
in
board lengthwise with the carpenter's
test the
square (Fig.
shown
the places are which require the most plan-
know where ing.
as
of
square
To make
place both sticks across the board, one at the
farther end and the
other
the
at
end, and
near
hold the
board level and at the proper height to
make the
tops
the
upon
sticks
level with
sicrht sticks,
of
a
your eyes
across
and
may know
if
Fig. 73.
the
—Testing with Winding-sticks.
their tops appear to be exactly on a line,
that there
is
no windXo the board
;
if
you
one end
one stick appears above the corresponding end of the other stick, you can easily determine where and how^ much of
the wind
is.
After determining w^here planing
is
necessary, place
the board in your bench-vise and plane up the face, test-
ing true.
it
again and again until you find
This
first
trued surface
is
it
to be perfectly
called the
working face
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
56
and should be marked with a cross (Fig.
With
67).
ha7idle of the try-square held firmly against this
working
and the blade extending across an edge (Fig.
face
move
it
plane
72),
along the surface, locate the high places, and
up and
it
the
test
it
as
you did the working
face.
Mark
which now becomes the working edge, with two Next, set the markingshort parallel lines (Fig. 68). this edge,
gauge to any thickness desired for the board and, with the head of the gauge pressed firmly against the working
gauge
face,
face to the
a line along each edge.
gauge
lines, test
Plane up the second
The ends of With the handle
and true up.
the board should be trimmed off next.
of the try-square pressed firmly against the first
scribe a line across the
working
face,
working edge, then, with the
handle of the square against the working edge, continue this line across the
working face and the opposite
From the working face carry the Then, from the scribed
edge.
which you wish
line across the unfinished line, lay off
to cut the piece
around the four sides
face.
the length to
and scribe another
at that distance.
Saw
off the
line
ends
board about \ inch outside of the lines, to allow for planing them up smooth. In planing across e7td of the
grain, the farther edge will split
This
difficulty
of
wood
it
is
90),
may
in front of
better
which
unless protected.
be overcome by placing another piece it
when you clamp
it
in the vise,
chamfer the unfinished edge
to is
down
the only reason
before the ends.
for
not
but
(see
Fig.
finishing
this
After planing off both ends square, set
;
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING the gauge to the width you wish to
make
57
the board and
gauge a Kne along the faces and across the ends, sHding the head of the gauge along the working edge (Fig. 68) then saw off the edge to within about |- inch of the lines with a rip-saw and finish the edge with the plane. For a Sawing Exercise, scribe a series of lines around a trued-up block of wood with your try-square, then place the block in your vise and see
how
well you can keep to
the line while sawing through the block.
Stick to this
saw the block through exactly on Guide the without running off at any point.
exercise until you can
the line,
saw with your a
little
line,
left
thumb
until
it
has cut into the
wood
way, hold the saw exactly at right angles to the
and use long, steady strokes.
No
better exercises in laying out work, planing,
and
sawing can be found than the makingof the Joints and Splices used for joining together pieces of
wood, and
it is
important to practice upon such joinings
before attempting to use in
order that you
may
them upon a
nice piece of work,
not run the risk of spoiling material.
Any odd-sized pieces of wood which you have on hand may be used for these exercises as the proportions of the joints may be worked out to suit the size of the piece. The most important
joints
and splices are shown
in
By a joint is 74 and 75 (pages 58 and 59). meant any kind of a connection between two pieces placed Figs.
at
an angle
to
one another, while a
between two pieces placed
splice is a
in a straight line.
connection
Fig. 74.
— Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 58
Fig. 75.
— Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 59
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
6o
You
are familiar, of course, with the
Common-joint and the Butt-joint, though perhaps you
do not know them by name, and no doubt you have used a better form the Common-splice and the Fished-splice of splice
—
—
in joining
together pieces which have been too
short in putting up the frameworks for your club-house, tree huts,
one
and other work.
You
will possibly
have
of these in constructing the partition for a
workshop, or
an
Chapter VIII.
attic
room such
The above
joints
as
and
is
to
use
basement
described in
shown
splices are
and require no explanation.
clearly in the illustrations
In the preparation of
A
Halved-joint, or Half-lap joint, as
called, a piece equal
thickness will fit
cut
is
to the
sometimes
width and one half
away from each member
may
of the
so the pieces
The
be done at the ends of the pieces as at
and B, or away from the end the center of both pieces as
of
one piece as
shown
saw
if
at C, or in
in Fig. 126 (page 113).
pieces.
The wood should be removed
with a
the ends of the pieces are halved, or with
a saw and chisel
The end
if
the lap
is
halved-joint
made
at the center of the
must be fastened together
with nails or screws, but the cejtter halvedjoint
ra2iy
some-
times be fastened with glue alone.
By joining two
A
A
a square and marking-gauge for laying out the lines
for the halving. fine
is
together with their surfaces even or Jlusk.
cutting
Use
it
Halved-splice
pieces lengthwise with a halved-joint is
obtained (Fig. 74).
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
6i
The Mortise-and-Tenon Joint is one of the most Important of cabinet-makers' joints, and you will have occasion to
employ
in joining together
it
work when
it
is
necessary
make strong connections. Several forms of this joint are shown in Fig. 74, and the method of laying out the to
mortise and the tenon is
shown
and
Figs.
in
76
Both mem-
^'],
bers of the joint should
be finished up to
first
the proper
size,
except
that additional length
must be
left
on
the
tenon piece to allow for the cuttinor ^ of the
Fig.
Fig. 76.
.
'j'].
tenon, and the mortise
Laying out a Mortise
Tenon
piece should also be a
with the Mortise-gauge.
out ready to be Cut.
little
to
longer
if
the cutting
is
done near the end,
to be
Ordinarily the mor-
prevent the end from splitting.
tise
should not be more than one third of the width of the
piece
it
is
cut through, and the tenon not less then one
third of the width of the piece
neither piece will be I
Piece laid
shall
and-tenon
explain, joint,
in
it
is
cut on, in order that
weakened by the cutting. first, the making of the mortisewhich the mortise
through the piece.
Lay
off the
is
cut entirely
length of the mortise
equal to the width of the tenon piece and scribe lines
around the four sides
of the block to
determine the ends
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
62
(Fig. 76), then set your mortise-gauge to the width of the
mortise and scribe the two side Hnes (Fig. 76) on both faces of the piece.
The width
should be
of the mortise
made one
of if
the exact width of
your
chisels,
possible, so that the
cutting of the entire
may
width
be done in
one operation (Figs. "jS
and 79)
this will
;
leave
little
or no trim-
ming
to
do on the
sides.
To tise,
cut
mor-
the
place the piece of
work upon the bench with one end toward you,
then
with
chisel held as Fig. 78.
— Cutting a
in
Fig.
jS,
the
shown
with the
Mortise.
Fig. 79.
— Trimmins
up the Ends.
beveled
facing
you, start at the middle
Fig. 78.
side
of
the space
marked out and drive the chisel into the wood, then withdraw the chisel, set its
edge about | inch back
into the
now and
wood again
;
of this first cut
and drive
it
continue cutting in this manner,
then prying out the pieces between the cuts
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING until the farther
63
guide-Hne has been reached, then reverse
work and, starting at the center cut from there back to the other end of the
the position of the piece of again,
The
space.
mortise should be cut through one half the
thickness of the piece, then the piece should be turned
over and the remaining one half cut through from that face.
The ends
must then be trimmed
of the mortise
work the
this part of the
toward the
flat
line as in Fig. 79.
made by boring
and for
must be held This trimming, ox parmg,
side of the chisel
should be done without the use of a mallet. very often
up,
a
number
A mortise is
of holes
and then
trimming up
to the guide-line with a chisel, in the
manner
described for cutting large, round holes on
as
is
page 142 (see Fig.
Lay for
off the
same
156).
length of the tenon with enough allowance
trimming the end
later,
then scribe a line around the
four sides of the piece to locate the shoiclder of the tenon (Fig.
Set the spurs of the mortise-gauge a
77).
farther
apart than the width of
the
mortise, to
trifle
allow
saw in cutting, and scribe the side lines of the tenon from the shoulder line to the end, across the end, and down the other side to the shoulder
for the thickness of the
With
line.
shoulder
line,
a
back-saw cut the shoulders along the
being very careful to saw exactly on the
line,
then place the piece in the bench-vise as shown in Fig. 80
and cut down the sides tenon should that
it
will
fit
of the
tenon
to the shoulder.
fairly tight in the mortise,
not drive easily
The
but not so tight
when coated with
glue.
If
a
;
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
64 little
too large for the mortise, trim the tenon with a
Short tenons
chisel.
may be
cut entirely with the chisel.
After fitting the pieces together, trim off the end of the
One
tenon flush with the face of the mortise.
of the
tenon pieces shown the
in
illustration
has a shoulder cut
upon which done
all
four sides,
is
commonly
to conceal the
edges of the mortise,
while one of the
shown but part way
mortises cut
is
through (a
the Fig. 8o.
-Cutting
the Sides of a Tenon.
the
blmd
piece
mortise)
tenon for the
j^^^^^ mortise
mUSt
be made \ inch shorter than the depth of the mortise to allow plenty of clearance for the end. The open mortiseand-terion joint illustrated to
make than
is
a
the closed joint,
common form and simpler as the mortise may be cut
with a saw and chisel. In
making the
furniture detailed in Chapter
VI you
wuU use the full-depth mortise only on pieces through
which the tenon
projects,
and
iox pins, as
you
will see
by
looking at the working-drawings, the blind mortise being
made
in all other cases.
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
65
Tenons may be fastened in place with glue, nails, For gluing see page 72, for screws, pins, or wedges. nailing see page 74, and for screwing see page 72.
The form
of
Pins which you will use most are those described for the construction of the furniture in Chapter VI.
In Fig.
74 you will see another common way of pinning together the members of a mortise-and-tenon joint. First of all, a small hole
the tenon hole
is
bored through the sides
of the mortise,
then
slipped into place and the position of the
is
marked upon
and then the hole
it,
is
bored through
the tenon about
j^ inch nearer to the shoulder than where located. By changing the position of the hole you will see that the pin will draw the shoulder on the tenon piece tight against the mortise piece, place.
into
For
Wedging the tenon (Fig.
sawed
when driven
in the
end
of the
74),
one or more kerfs are
tenon, and after the tenon has
been slipped through the mortise, wood wedges are coated with glue and driven into the kerfs, thus spreading the
end
of the
of a
hammer
A
Rabbet
tenon
is
is
the
in
same way
in
which the handle
fastened in the head.
a square-corner groove cut in the edge of
a board (Fig. 75), and
A
Rabbet-joint
may
be made by fitting a square-edge
piece into a rabbeted piece, by fitting together two pieces
with rabbeted edges, and by fitting a rabbeted piece into ?i
grooved "^x^Q.^.
A
rabbet
may
be cut with a chisel after
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
66
the
manner described
for cutting a mortise (Fig. 78), or
if it
extends along the
full
be cut with a saw it
;
but
if
length of a short piece,
it
may
you have much rabbeting to
do,
be well to have a rabbet-plane (Fig. 22) for the
will
purpose, or have your work done at a mill.
Grooves
may
be cut with a chisel in the same
mortises are cut, but this work
is
also simplified
way
that
by using
a dado-plane (Fig. 23).
The
A
similarity
Housed-joint often causes a confusion of
But there
edge
between a rabbet-joint and
of
is
no rabbeting
one piece being
cut in the other; so
if
the two.
in the housed-joint, the entire
fitted,
you
will
or housed, into a groove
remember
this,
you
will
have no trouble in distinguishing one from the other.
The Tongue-and-Groove Joint
is
one which you
probably never have occasion to make, and do,
it
will
You
will,
you ever
be best to take your work to a mill and have
done by machines especially made
it
if
will
however, have need
of
boards for work requiring tight
for the purpose.
tongued-and-grooved joints,
and
these, of
course, are stock stuff.
The Mitered- joint
will
be used a great deal in making
picture-frames and other cabinet work.
made in The accuracy.
45-degree cut and should be
It
is
always a
a miter-box (Fig.
show A Mitered-splice, or beveled-lap splice, used a good deal in splicing long stretches of interior woodwork. The Dovetail-joint is a joint you will never need to 59'
P^g^ 39) ^o insure
illustrations
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINLNG apply to your work, in of
accuracy
required in
is
for this reason
and
The
besfinner.
it
and sides
probability, but a great degree
making
it
to secure a neat job,
furnishes a splendid exercise for a
dovetail in modified forms
is
used in the
boxes, and in the joining of the
of small
manufacture front
all
67
of drawers, in
which case
it is all
done by
a machine.
Figures 81 to 84 show the necessary steps for dovetailing the ends of two pieces by hand.
First,
plane up the
pieces true and to the
same width and
thick-
ness,
then taking the
piece
upon which the mortises
dovetail
are
be
cut
(Fig.
81),
scribe
the
line
AB
to
around the two faces and edges
at
a
Fig. 82.
Fig. 81. YiGS. 81-84.
dis-
Fig. 84.
Fic;. 83.
— Details of the Dovetail-joint.
tance from the end equal to the exact thickness of the
tenon piece.
upon
nately,
Lay
off
this
line
spaces of | inch and | inch,
and scribe
alter-
to the
lines parallel
edges of the piece from these points to the end, around the end.
and back
to line
AB on
lay off the oblique side lines of the mortises faces,
Next,
the other face.
on both
then place the piece in the bench-vise, end up,
and saw down along these lines as a fine saw for the purpose,
after
wood between, marked M, with
far as line
w^hich
AB,
cut
a chisel (Fig. 82).
using
out
the
Place
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
68
the finished
mark
piece and
move
mortise
the
piece upon the end of the tenon
off the tenons, then, to allow for cutting,
over about
lines
inch each side of the
-^q
tenons and, after this has been done, scribe their ends across
to
AB, which
line
this piece at a distance
from the end equal
ness of the mortise piece (Fig. sists in
be scribed around
should
The
87,).
sawing down along the side
last step
con-
lines of the tenons
and cutting out the wood between, marked
A
to the thick-
T (Fig.
84).
Dovetail Half-lap Joint (Fig. 75) has the advantage
over an ordinary half-lap joint of so locking the pieces that
it is
impossible to pull
apart, lengthwise of the
it
pieces, without breaking the tenon.
The Dowel-joint (Fig. 75)
is
are fastened together with
The form
wooden pins
the right
joint,
but
or
at
satisfactory than to cut of the holes in the
for doweling,
them out
some
practice.
fit
to a
measurement equal
and, from the
The boring
together yf^/i-// andyf^/,
After you
edges of the pieces (see page
gauge
yourself.
proper positions and at right angles
to the edges, so the pieces will
requires
Dowel sticks
and you can get any furniture shop, which will be more
of all diameters are
what you need
of a
more boards may
be doweled together to form a wide piece.
made
called dowels.
often used in cheap work.
is
shown how two
is
members
and neatness
at the left lacks the strength
mortise-and-tenon
At
a butt-joint, but the
working face
40),
of
to
have jointed the
set
your marking-
one half their thickness,
each board, gauge a line
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING
69
along the entire length of the edge for a center-line.
Then
place the boards back to back in your bench-vise,
with the edges even, locate the centers of the holes along
one center-line and scribe lines from these points across the
to
other center-line.
the boards are perfectly
If
and the holes are bored
straight
carefully, the
dowels
will
bring the pieces together exactly right, but in case
you
find they
do not
fit,
it is
easy enough to adjust the
trouble by boring extra pairs of holes at the points where the boards are out of line, shifting the centers just as
much
as
Bevel the edges of the holes with
necessary.
is
a knife or a countersink to form pockets around the
To
dowels for glue.
allow plenty of clearance, cut the
dowels about \ inch shorter than the combined depths of the holes, then, after you have found that the boards fit together perfectly, coat
one half
of
the length of the
dowels with glue and stick them into the holes of the edges. of
Allow the glue
to
set,
in
one
then coat the edge
each board and the other half of each dowel with
glue, put
the pieces together and clamp
Allow the glue
to set for
them
tightly.
about a day before releasing
the work.
Battens are strips fastened across two or more pieces of
wood
Fig. 44,
for the
page
purpose of holding them together {A,
32),
while
Cleats are strips often used for the
same purpose, but
generally so secured that the pieces will have a chance to swell
and shrink.
It
is
well
enough
to nail battens
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
70
across boards in rough
work where
for cabinet work.
not important
not, but
whether the joints remain closed or
do
is
it
it
will not
woodwork expands and con-
All
tracts to a certain extent with
changes
in the
temperature,
and when battens are securely fastened across glued-up work they do not check this movement, nor do the nails or screws give
enough
to take care of
thing possible takes place
it,
so the only other
— the wood breaks away from the fastenings and possibly splits
from
end
Figure 85 shows
end.
to
how
the
movement may be taken care of by attaching cleats Fig. 85.
— The
Proper
Way
to cleat
^^^''^^'
tO the
WOrk.
are held
in
These
cleats
place with
screws, but the screw holes are bored about twice the size of the screws,
the
holes
are
used
and washers large enough to
support
the
cover
to
screw-heads.
By
placing the screws in the exact center of the holes, the
ends are free to work back and forth with the movement of the
wood.
Cleats are attached to the back of single
boards and glued-up work in the same way, to prevent warping, and sometimes they are grooved on to the ends of work.
A
strip fastened
up
for a shelf or
drawer sup-
known as a cleat. You have now learned the difference between
port
is
also
a rabbet,
groove^ bead, 7nortise, tongue, tenon, dovetail, and miter,
used in making joints and splices, but there are several
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING other cuts which you should know.
7X
When
you read
about the Taper on a piece of work, you must understand this to
ma-
refer to a gradual decrease in the thickness of the terial,
forming a slanted surface or edge (Fig.
there
is
Then
86).
the
Bevel, a flat surface cut obliquely to its adjoining sur-
and a
faces (Fig. ^']\
Chamfer, three forms of which are 89,
and
The
90.
but the latter
is
<^^^'^/and the
shown
in
chamfer bevel
Figs.
2.\'t
^'^,
similar,
usually
used only on end grain for the
purpose of pre-
wood from splitting down when planing against it. Use a marking-gauge venting the
with which to lay out these cuts, and
make Fig. 86
and
bevel
the
the
chamfer bevel with a plane siop
or
chisel,
the
chamfer with a
Fig. 89.
— Tapered Surface. — Bevel. Figs. 88-90. — Three Forms of Chamfers. Fig. 86.
Fig. 87.
chisel or spoke-shave,
and the cham-
fer groove with a gouge.
Woodwork
is
usually fastened together by
means
gluCy pins^ dowels^ wedges, screws, nails, or bolts.
use of pins, dowels, and wedges has been discussed. best glue for
you
to use for
of
The The
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
72
Gluing up
Work
in bottles at the
is
the liquid glue such as you can buy
drug
store, or in
one half pint and larger
The can form
is
preferable to the bottle glue as the screw cover seals
it
cans at a hardware store or paint shop.
up tighter; but when the glue thickens,
easily
is
it
thinned by adding a few drops of vinegar and setting the
can or bottle for a few minutes in some boiling water.
Glue must be thin
shown
that
to
in Fig. 91
work
^^f)
Use a brush similar to with which to apply it.
fit
every part together and
well.
(page
Before gluing any work,
make
sure that no further trimming of the joints
sary
then wipe the portions to be glued with a cloth to
;
remove
all
is
neces-
sawdust, and apply the glue thoroughly, but not
too thick, to one part at a time.
been glued in
After the pieces have
place, unless the joints are mortise-and-
tenon joints or other joints which
will drive together, the
work must be held by haiidscrews
page
(Fig. 40,
29),
cabinet-makers clamps (Fig. 41), or home-made clamps (Fig.
42),
until the glue has
thoroughly
about a day's time should be allowed.
which has oozed out of
set,
for
which
All surplus glue
joints should be scraped off
and
the surface sandpapered clean and smooth before any finish
is
Screws
J
applied. will
hold work together better than
nails,
in
places where the latter cannot be clinched, and are to be
preferred wherever cipal
it is
possible to use them.
The
prin-
forms of wood-screws are the flat-head, the round-
head ox finishing- screw, and the square-head or lag-screw
ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING The
last
form
being made
is
used for
rough work, the heads
large,
they
like bolt-heads so
73
may
be turned with a
wrench. In fastening together two pieces of hard wood, or very thin wood,
it is
necessary to
drill
holes for the screws be-
make
fore driving them, in the first case to easier,
and
in the
The
splitting.
the driving
second case to prevent the wood from
hole in the upper piece should be
made
a trifle larger than the diameter of the stem of the screw,
so the screw will slip through
it
without binding, while
the hole in the lower piece must of course be enough
smaller than the screw so the
wood and take
a
it
good
will
its
way
into
some cases it is the upper piece a good deal
hold.
necessary to bore the hole in
thread In
larger than the stem, as in the case of clcating (see Cleats,
page
In rough work, or in unexposed places, the
69).
screw-heads
may be driven
in flush
with the surface, but on
work the heads must be countersu^ik (driven below the surface) far enough so the heads may be concealed with putty and whatever finish is placed upon the particular
done with the countersink (Fig. 16, page 16), which bevels off the top edge of the screw hole enough to allow the head to drop below the Countersinking
wood.
surface.
Screws
soaped, that
is,
will
drive
into
hard wood easier
rubbed over a piece
threads are coated.
of
forced very hard.
off,
if
soap until the
This also prevents the possibility
slender screws twisting
when
is
which they are
likely to
of
do
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
74
Nails are
made
vanized), brass,
Of
and copper.
the brad and finishing-nail for drive
to
the
rough work,
for
work where
below
heads
gal-
these you will seldom
common wire nail
use others than the
sary
and
of wrought-iron, wire (bright
the
is
it
surface
necesof
the
wood, and in so doing to make as small a hole as | possible, and copper or galvajtized wire 7iails for boat building and other outside work where nails are exposed
:
to rust.
wood to prevent splitting, and it is necessary to do the same in hard wood to prevent the nails from bending. The holes must be a trifle smaller than the nails and may be made Holes should always be started
with a brad-awl (Fig.
i6,
page
in very thin
i6),
or a small
drill (Fig.
work but of the roughest kind, the nail-heads should be set low enough so they may be con-i 26,
page
23).
In
all
cealed with putty before the setting
is
done by means
Carriage -bolts are used
wood
is
finished.
of a nail-set (Fig. 16,
more or
page
The\ 16).
less frequently in car-
pentry with which to pivot one piece to another, or to hold several pieces together (generally in large work)
where they are or screws bolts in
likely to be subjected to a strain that nails
would not stand.
You
^ *
will use these as king-
making your bob-sleds (Chap. XVIII) and your
wagons (Chap. XXIV), and
for securing in
rowlock blocks of your boats (Chaps.
XXII
place
the
and XXIII).
{
\
J
m^a CHAPTER WOOD
The
work
finishing of
IV
FINISHING
is
equally as Important as the
constructive part because the final appearance of the
depends upon the care with which
article
Many
done.
a well-made piece of furniture has been ruined by
poor taste
in the selection of finish, or as a result of care-
lessness or inexperience on the part of the
man
is
it
applying
master the
stammg,
it.
With
common
amateur
practice, however,
forms
of finishes,
crafts-
any boy can
such as paintings
shellacking, waxing, varnislmtg,
and
oiling, so
as to be able to turn out a satisfactory job.
The kind
of finish to be selected for a piece of
depends, of course, upon the variety of
wood
nature of the article and the wear to which subjected.
and most as
much Paint
paints
of
work
used, the it
will
be
For your sleds, wagons, boats, club-houses, your home-made outdoor equipment, as well
of that
made
for indoors.
makes the most durable
may be
obtained In
finish.
Ready-mixed
various colors, and this
is
probably the most satisfactory way for a boy to purchase paint
if
he wants a large quantity, but for small work 75
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
76
where only a small amount best to
one color
of
buy the lead grou7id in
oil,
and thin down with turpentine the job paint may be bought
as
The balance
cans. soft
by pouring
the surface
this
;
much
as
is
form
may
it is
be poured
needed in
may
of the paint in the can
enough water or
in
required
of the color desired,
in this
;
is
i
for
-pound
be kept
linseed-oil to cover
again
off
when you
wish to use more paint.
As most of red
you boys probably know, the combination
of
and yellow makes orange, yellow and blue makes
makes purple, green and red makes brown, and black and white makes gray. Different shades
green, blue and red
may be
obtained by using a larger proportion of one or
the other color, and black and white will darken or lighten
By purchasing
the color.
Prussian you
will
blue,
Venetia7t red^ chrome-yellow^
lampblack, and white lead (or zinc-white)^
be able to mix up almost every shade of any
color you wish to use, but you will probably find in burnt
umber or burnt
the shade
sie^tna just
of
brown you
want, and in chrome-green or olive-green the right shade of green, in
which case
it
will
pay you
to
buy a can
of
each. In Mixing Paints,
mix up
be necessary to complete a
match a color will spoil the
exactly,
one time as much as
at
job, as
and a
it is
slight
will
usually difficult to
change
in the
shade
appearance of the work you are finishing.
Try the color upon
a piece of
wood
that of the article to be painted,
same kind as before you go ahead with of the
WOOD the painting, and allow
or not
it is
Brushes.
it
going to look
FINISHING
77
you can see whether
to dry so right.
Figure 91 shows a number
of
brushes which
generally answer every purpose of
will
The two
amateur.
the
large brushes will be needed for general paint-
ing, the
two sash-tools for small work and
corners,
and the smallest brush
Then
lettering.
there
is
for getting into
for striping, marking,
and
the medium-sized
varnish brush which must be used only for
varnishing and
shellacking,
brush mentioned
in
and the glue
Chapter
When
III.
you are through painting, staining, or nishing, tine,
or
wash out your brushes if
you expect
to use
var-
in turpen-
them
in
the
2'-
TlAT VARNISH -BRUSH
I- SaSm tool V2'-
Sash -TOOL
same material within a day or so you may ^ 4 MaSkinG-BRuSH place them in water, which will keep the ^D: GluE-BRUSh
paint from hardening without injuring the cz: mzzzD PuTTY-KNiFE
bristles
resting
To
if
the brushes are prevented from
upon the bottom
of the receptacle.
support the brushes, bore holes through
the handles in the proper places so that a piece of wire
and the wire
is
^^^^
Brushes and
^^"^'
"^ ^'
when run upon
laid across the
rim of
the can or other receptacle, the ends of the bristles will
not touch the bottom. In Painting wipe off your brush
paint can after dipping drip
it
upon the edge
into the paint, so
and spatter over everything.
thinly and always start at one end of a
it
of the
will not
Apply the paint surface and work
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
78
toward the other. wood,
If
there are any resinous knots in the
give them a coat of shellac to set the resin so
first
there will be no danger of after
it
it
oozing through the surface
The
has been painted.
first
coat
is
known
as the
priming coat. After it has dried, the work should be gone over carefully and all nail holes, and cracks and After other defects puttied up (see Puttying, page 84). puttying, sandpaper
all
rough places
(see
page 84) before applying a second will
be sufficient for
all
coat.
of white or
other coats will cover
it.
For the finishing
any
varnish).
it,
of furniture
and then apply wax or
Any
of the soft
work the
light color, as the
work, the modern method of treatment fill
coats j
In three-coat
priming coat may be
wood,
Two
ordinary work, but three coats
are better for particular work.
Staining.
Sandpapering,
and other nice is
to
stain the
2ijlat varnish (dull
woods and
hard woods take stain exceedingly well
a ;
number of oak is now
the fin-
way more generally than any other wood. The purpose of staining should be, not to imitate a more
ished in this
expensive wood, as
is
frequently done, but instead to
bring out the beauty of the grain, or at least to give
it
if it
has a decided grain,
a beautiful soft tone.
There are many prepared
upon the market which may be had at a small cost, and any paint store handling these will have a color card from which you may These stains are made select the color you wish to use. in water stains, which are dyes mixed in water, and oil stains
WOOD which
stains,
FINISHING
mixed
pigments
are
79
in
or
linseed-oil
spirits.
Water stains roughen the grain of wood, making
it
necessary to sandpaper the surface after an application has dried, but they have an advantage over the in the fact that they
the grain, the
of
bring out
oil stains
much
being
stains
oil
stronger the lines
less
transparent and
concealing, somewhat, the delicate lines and pores.
But
for the fine-grained woods, oil stains are easier to apply,
and produce better Oil
results.
Stains are easy to
his readers to
With
the
mix, and the author advises
do some experimenting along
colors
this
mentioned under Paint, any
standard shades of green, gray, and brown
may
line.
the
of
be made,
and with a stain manufacturer's sample color card
work from, you of
will
be able to get pretty close to any
the shades shown, although
different card,
when applied
on account
to
to the
they
will
look a
little
wood than they do on
of the difference in material.
the
Always
same kind of wood as your work is made of, upon which to try out a stain before deciding on it. The prepared stains are accompanied with full instructions for application. Before using your home-made stain, sandpaper the surface of your work thoroughly, use the
then apply the stain with a brush or piece of cloth, and rub
it
in vigorously with a piece of soft
cloth.
and
fill
muslin or cheese-
Allow the work to dry for a day, then go over it up all nail holes with putty colored with the stain;
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
8o
crumbs and apply a second coat
clean off the putty
The
the stain.
ment, but
over the to
oil,
be
left
without further
treat-
advisable to put a coat of white shellac
and when
produce a hard
this has dried to
wax
it,
in order
Unless you protect the sur-
finish.
become spotted, as the oil the stain never entirely dries, and rubs off. Some very pleasing effects upon oak have been ob-
face in in
is
it
may
surface
of
some such way,
will
it
tained by the author by applying the two coats of stain in
two
different colors, instead of
and putting them on produce a green
was of
rubbed
first
this a coat
of
well
a thin into
the
low and Prussian blue, can of a slight
The
it).
result
suggestion
The Draftmg
instance, to
coat of Venetian
red
on
top
grain,
then
chrome-green was applied (chrome-
may be made by mixing
green
For
one color.
as
finish,
mixing them together
if
together chrome-yel-
you do not wish
to
buy a
was a pretty green with
of a reddish
tinge
the
to
Table and Bench shown in
graph opposite page 86 were finished
in
the
this
just
grain.
photo-
way.
By
applying a thinner coat of the green than of the red,
and wiping
it
off a little
more, a pretty dark brown hav-
ing a tinge of red showing through
The
it
may
be obtained.
only difficulty an amateur will experience in put-
ting on a stain in
this
manner will be upon the work
in
using the
same amount of stain that he has used upon his sample, and in rubbing it down to the same tone but with a little experience he will be ;
able to obtain excellent results.
WOOD
FINISHING
8i
must be used for Shellacking stained woodwork, as the commoner kind White
shellac
— orange
—
shellac
will
alter
and probably ruin the work. white
shellac already prepared.
brush such as
shown
is
thick, dilute
it
must be thin enough
Start at
one end
is
better to
Use
buy the
the shellac
if
to flow freely over
surface
to
stain
a 2-inch varnish
and
Fig. 91,
in
the
of
It
the
of
alcohol just before using
with
is
it
tone
the
as
it,
the work.
be covered and
work toward the other end, using long, even strokes and being careful not to skip any places and not to go uncovered over the same part of the surface twice portions and laps will show through the finish and give it an uneven appearance. Shellac alone makes a splendid finish for articles made such as kitchen and pantry conveniences, of soft wood, ;
—
etc.,
— and
is
quickly put on.
The orange
better than the white for this purpose, as
wood
a richer tone.
chips and
You
it
shellac
is
gives the
can buy the orange shellac
them by placing them in a glass empty varnish can, and covering them
ctil (dissolve)
preserve-jar, or
wood alcohol. Dilute the much as is necessary to make with
ready to use
it.
Three coats
shellac with alcohol as it
thin,
when you
are
of shellac are sufficient for
Allow each coat to dry for at least a day before applying another, and sandpaper the surface after each coat has dried, to remove all rough-
an ordinary piece
ness.
After the
of
work.
final coat, instead of
sandpapering
it,
a
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
82
may be
better finish
obtained by rubbing the surface
with a piece of flannel, or other soft cloth, dipped in
-
powdered pumice-stone moistened with linseed-oil. Besides smoothing the surface, this rubbing cuts the gloss and produces an even, soft tone. All nail holes should be puttied up after the Filling ing, to
first
coat has dried.
necessary in preparing a surface for varnish- j out the grain and make a smooth, level surface,
is
fill
on wood having a coarse grain, such as oak.
especially
Factory furniture, finished in Flemish-oak, weathered-oak, or any of the other
modern
the staining has been done
;
filled
is
of the
after
but you will secure richer I
by omitting this from such work, as
effects
much
stain finishes,
it
conceals
beauty of the grain, especially in the open-
grained woods. Filling
Paste
The
is
best done by the amateur with a
Filler,
filler
I
which can be purchased
at
any paint
must be thinned with turpentine
sistency of
wood with
store.
to the con-
cream and then be spread evenly over the a brush or cloth, allowed to set for ten or
fif-
teen minutes, and then rubbed off across the grain so as to
fill
all of
the pores
piece of burlap.
;
The
do the rubbing with excelsior or a filler
must be allowed
about twelve hours before the shellacking
may
is
to
dry for
done.
Filler
be bought in the natural and colored to suit the
finish to
be applied to the wood, or
it
may
already prepared in the color of one of a
standard
wood
finishes.
be obtained
number
of
"
WOOD
FINISHING
Waxing gives a stained surface varnish, and is easier to apply. purchased
at a paint store.
It
a
83
much
richer tone than
Prepared wax can be
should be rubbed on with
a cloth, allowed to stand ten or fifteen minutes, and then
rubbed vigorously with a obtained.
Waxed
soft
surfaces
with water, for they
cloth
until
must not come
become spotted
will
if
a polish in
is
contact
they do and
require re waxing.
Varnishing
seldom
is
done
nowadays by amateur
craftsmen in finishing woodwork, but
it
is
necessary as
upon surfaces which are subjected to water, If the wood has an so a few pointers are given here. open grain, it must first be filled, then given a coat of Flow the varnish shellac to form a body for the varnish. over the surface with a varnish brush such as is shown a protection
crosswise of the grain and finish
in Fig. 91, then
brush
by brushing
lengthwise of the grain.
it
be sufficient for
duce a
all
finer finish.
to elapse
between
it
One
coat will
ordinary work, but two coats will proSeveral days' time should be allowed coats.
The
glossy surface
may be
cut by
Rubbing
it
down with
a soft cloth dipped in
pumice-stone wet with linseed-oil or water. face has been
cleaned
off, it
powdered
After the sur-
rubbed and the pumice-stone thoroughly
may be improved by
Polishing with rottenstone and linseed-oil, rubbed on
with a piece of cotton-flannel. In buying varnish
it
pays to get a good grade, as
its
1
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
84
make
better wearing qualities will
it
cheaper
in the
long
run than the low-priced varnishes, which are usually very unsatisfactory. Oiling the surface of a piece of
markings
and gives
of the grain
rich tone.
This
made out
of cigar
it
and wipe
for
medium
articles
Apply the
oil
vigorously with a soft
it
into the grain as
have occasion
will
four grades of sandpaper
and o
a beautiful
much
as
off the superfluous oil.
You
Sandpapering.
wood
boxes (see Chap. XI).
you have worked
will take,
to the
an especially good finish for
is
with a brush or rag, then rub cloth, until
work accentuates the
— No.i|-
to use
about
for coarse work, Nos.
J
work, and Nos. o and oo for fine work.
Nos. o and oo are of the proper degree of fineness for
sandpapering painted, stained, and shellacked surfaces.
To
avoid scratching a surface always sandpaper length-
wise of the grain.
For sandpapering
surfaces, the
flat
(On page
paper should be attached to a block of wood. of
"
The Boy Craftsman
" is
shown a
specially
1
formed
block for this purpose.) Puttying.
now
Putty can be purchased at the paint stores
one-pound cans,
in sealed
at
about
A small quantity will go a long way, and small
amount
at a time, as
it
air.
placing
can of water.
it
in a
Putty
Before using putty, knead into
it
the
oil
which
it is
best to
buy
a
hardens very quickly when
may be kept
exposed to the
five cents a can.
it
in
soft,
however, by
your hand to work back
rises to the surface,
and
if
the article
WOOD upon which
it
the stain into
ways best
is it
to be to
used
make
to putty after the
in painting,
and
FINISHING is
stained,
85
work enough
of the right color.
it
of
It is al-
priming coat has been applied,
after the first coat of stain has
been put
on, in oil staining, as the oil soaks into the holes
and
cracks and the putty sticks better as a result. Painters use a putty-knife (Fig. 91) with which to press
putty into the crevices
of
work, but you can use the
blade of your jack-knife for the purpose, or a fairly good
Home-made Putty-knife may be obtained by cutting off square the end of a five-cent potato knife. As a final word upon the subject of wood finishing, the author wishes to caution you boys to
Be Careful to
lie
of Oily
Rags and waste and not allow them
around, for they are
very likely to catch
through spo7itaneous combustion. of this
fire
Burn up everything
nature as soon as you are through with
it.
By
meant a mechanical representation of an object, either drawn accurately to measurements or laid out roughly with dimensions marked upon it, with which a mechanic can get to work and
make
a working-drawing
is
the entire object complete.
Sometimes, every part
work can be so shown upon a single sheet that no other word of explanation is required by the mechanic; again, on more complicated work, general working-drawings showing the main portions of the structure or machine must be prepared, and then all the minor parts taken up singly and worked out {detailed) on other sheets, forming what are known as detail drawings. In very complex work hundreds of these drawings are often necessary in order that the designer or draftsman may
of the
make
certain that
every part of the construction will
work out properly and that the workmen will understand his intentions, and in many kinds of work it is necessary to furnish in addition to all these details printed or type-
written instructions,
known
as specifications, to explain
the kinds, grades, and sizes of materials, and complicated 86
A Corner
of the Author's
Home Workroom.
(lor Working Drawings of the Table and Bench see Figs.
147
and
130.
Chapter VI.)
WORKING-DRAWINGS portions
87
which cannot be covered by notes upon the
drawings.
The average person
usually has difficulty in reading a
working-drawing, for the fact that he looks at
as
it
he
does a picture, expecting to see everything standing out in a
photographic form.
stands what
2^
plan
^
And
elevation,
until the
and
section are
To make
tinue to have this difficulty.
beginner under-
he
will con-
the explanation
as simple as possible, the working-drawings for a dog-
house are shown
in Fig. 92.
the floor of the house as
The plan shows
you would see
it if
a view of
you sawed
through the walls and removed the upper portion, and then could look
same time.
A
down
squarely upon every part at the
view looking down upon the roof
in the
same way would be a roofplan, and a top view of any object is also known as 2i plan. A view of the front of the dog-house, which you would see if you could look squarely at
every portion of the front at the same time,
front is
elevatio7i,
and the same kind
called a side elevation, while
necessary to show special work
if
it
of a
is
called a
view of the side
a rear view had been
would be known
as a
rear elevation, and in case there were two side elevations they would be
named
to distinguish
one from the other, or
left elevation
and right elevation in the case of a
building or any stationary work the elevations would be
designated by the points of the compass. By sawing the dog-house in two, crosswise, from the peak down
through the base, removing the front portion and then
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
S8
you would see a sectional view the house, and a true drawing showing this view would
looking toward the of
rear,
be called a section (see Fig.
92).
A
may
section
be
taken through an object either horizontally or vertically (a plan
taken through an object
section), ject is
in reality a horizontal
is
and a section through the short way
known
of
and one through the
as a cross-section^
long way as a longiiudiiial section.
A perspective draw-
ing shows the object as you would actually see
viewing
it
from one
point,
which
an ob-
is
the view a camera would show.
it
when
more or
less similar to
In this
drawing the
horizontal lines converge (approach one another) as they
recede from the eye, which produces the same effect that is
obtained
when looking down
a railroad track
— the
coming together of telegraph wires and tracks at a point on the horizon. A perspective of the dog-house is shown in Fig. 495, page 390. Working-drawings are made to different Scales, determined largely by the size and construction of the work. size,
A
very small object
while a building or a large
may be piece
detailed fullof
machinery
would be shown at a small scale with \ inch or \ inch upon the drawing representing 12 inches on the object to be constructed,
and different portions which are more
or less complicated would be redrawn at a larger scale to
make them
(Fig. 92)
that
is,
clear.
The drawings
were made to a scale
of
the dog-house
of i^ inches to the foot;
\\ inches on the drawing represents 12 inches
©„ Trimming Line-
1
1
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
90
of the dog-house.
from
this size in
They have been reduced considerably order to show them upon the page, but indicates the original size to
top
the ruler across the
which they were drawn. reduced to odd scale placed
ings \*-o"
=
Maps and
printed drawings
this case,
have a graduated
sizes, as in
upon them, but the
scale of working-draw-
usually expressed in this form:
is
{full size)
\
Scale
6"=
\'-o"
Scale
{half size)
12"
=
Scale 3"
\
Scale I" = I'-o"; Scale y' = i-o\ etc. The stands for inch or inches and the mark iox foot
i-o'\
mark
''
'
ox feet.
Every boy should be able drawings
in order that
for furniture,
to
he may work out
wagons, boats,
own workinghis own designs
prepare his
kites,
aeroplanes,
etc.,
no important work should be attempted before been carefully drawn out upon paper,
for, as
the
it
and has
maxim
goes,
"Working without a plan
and work so constructed in the
is
is
sailing without a
bound
to
show
defects either
design or in the misfitting of parts.
ture described in the following chapter tailed
compass,"
and
will give
you a good idea
should be laid out, but
many
of
is
The
furni-
completely de-
how such work
of the other articles de-
book are illustrated only by sketches or perspective drawings, and before making these you should prepare drawings showing the work as you have scribed in this
determined to make
A
it.
Drawing Outfit does not need to be an expensive
WORKING-DRAWINGS one, but as in the purchase of in the
end
any kind
buy only the best
to
91
of tools
of materials
;
it
pays
these are
usually to be found in the medium-priced equipment.
A
may
Drawing-board
be
made by
several boards as described on
cleating
page 70 and
together
illustrated in
you can buy one so cheaply that it hardly The board must be absolutely to make one.
Fig. 85, but
pays to try
upon the seasoned and true
left-hand edge,
and the wood must be
well-
from
free
winding, knots diXid other
which points are
defects,
taken
care
you
boards
good ings
in
the
buy.
A
of
size for small is
a student's board,
16
size
draw-
by 22
inches
The
inches (Fig. 93).
board
may be
—
Fig. 93. A Student's Drawing-board (size 16" X 22") and T-square and Triangles.
placed
upon your desk while you work, or you may make A Drafting Table such as is shown opposite page 86, if
you wish.
top, if
This table has a large drawing-board for a
but an ordinary table top
may
you have a small drawing-board
be constructed instead
to use
on
it.
Working-
drawings for the construction of the table are given
in
Fig. 147, page 132.
A
T-square
is
ing horizontal oblique lines.
used as a guide for the pencil in draw-
and a guide for the triangles for The crosspiece upon the end slides along lines,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
92
edge of the drawing-board and
the
left
left
hand.
the
A Triangle
45-degree lines at
moved with
is
required
is
drawing
for
oblique
an angle of 45 degrees, and a 60-degree Triangle for draw-
ing oblique lines at angles of
60 and 30 degrees (Fig. "
With
93).
the addition of a ruler,
a couple of pencils, an eraser,
and Compasses, a boy will
have
as large an outfit as he probably B
will
Fig. Fig. 04. FiG. Q7. ^ ^
Fig. 94.
—A
Fig. 96.
oi;.
Cheap Pencil-com-
pass.
F1G.95.
— Compass with Pen, Pen-
and Divider Points. Fig. 96. -Ruling-pen. Fig. 97. Chisel-shaped and Pointed Pencil Ends. cil,
—
mgs
A
r
making draw-
1
.
^hich
... but
will
rr
such aS
you
serve the purpose, i
you Can afford a pair
if
for a greater variety of work. latter pair,
require for
i-* tor shop r'iQ:ure 04 ^ use. ^ shows a cheap pencil-compass •
'n
will
is i
shown
be
i
in
Fig. 95, •
--
better
In the illustration of the
represents the body of the compass,
needle point
which
point which
fits
fits
into one leg,
and
into the other leg, while
divider points which
may
C
D
drawing
in ink,
is
and
either leg of the
B
the
the pencil
and
E are
be substituted in place of the
needle and pencil points to form a pair of dividers, the pen point which
i
equipped
F\%
used in place of the pencil point for J
G
is
the extension bar with which
compass or divider may be extended.
WORKING-DRAWINGS Swing the compass with one hand, For drawing ink Ruling-pen
The
lines other
as
93
shown
than arcs of
in Fig. 98.
circles, a
necessary (Fig. 96).
is
ruling-pen must be held in a per-
pendicular position, with the ends of
upon the T-square
the fingers resting as
shown
in Fig. 99, so they will slide
along the T-square ness of the lines
is
easily.
The
thick-
governed by turning
the screw upon the pen, which draws to-
gether or spreads apart the two blades.
The
ink
Fig.
9S.
— How
to
swing a Compass.
is
dropped between the blades by
upon the end
means
of the quill
of the
cork furnished with the
bottles 102).
of
drawing ink (Fig.
Figure 100 shows
A Set of Instruments which, in Fig. 99.
— How to
hold a Ruling
pencil.
C, extension bar
addition to the
compass^, com-
pass adjusting key B, pen point
D, and ruling-pen
E, has a pair of dividers F, a small sized ruling-pen G, a small pair of
dividers
H
{bow-dividers), a small
pencil-compass
/
small pen-compass a box
of leads
{bow- pencil)^ a
J {bow-peft), and
K.
A
moderate
Fig. 100.
— a students' Set
^^^^^^^§ instruments.
priced set of these instruments will cost about $6.50.
of
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
94
For laying
measurements, an ordinary
off
2-inch Ruler (Fig. 92) will do, but at a slight addi-
1
tional cost a specially prepared
may be
Scale
making
in
like
a
scale drawings.
while others
ruler,
shown
One of these is a time saver Some scales are made flat
purchased.
are
Upon
in Fig. loi.
triangular in shape as
the triangular scales eleven
sets of graduations are provided
—
12'' (full size),
3'',
i^'\
F' and 3V'. In the illustration the and J'' graduations are shown along one edge and 3" and i^" divisions along the other. Each end division I"'
-r>
¥^ I" r>
A"
f
j
^^m-T
^
^
\^
»
\^
^
*
\
\
-^^
^-
\
Fig. ioi.
\
-^
'^^
\.
\
'^'
\
four
^'
\
'^-
\
^'
\
•^'
VV^ V '^^'\^
twelve parts, each of which
for that particular scale represents
made with
\
— A Triangular Scale.
of these is also divided into
are
'^'
i
inch.
Flat scales
or eight different kinds of divi-
sions according to whether one side or both sides are
graduated.
Drawing Pencils are made by
letters,
6B, which
in various grades designated
ranging from 9H, which is
very
soft.
A 6H
machine drawing, while a
3H
drawing.
If
in architectural
pencils, get a
No. 4 or No.
drawing pencils) 2
for
5
I
pencil is
very hard, is
down
to
usually used in
about the hardest used
you wish to use ordinary (equivalent to
2H
and
3H
drawing upon hard paper, a No.
(equivalent to a B) for a
No.
is
medium
soft pencil,
(equivalent to a 3B) for a very soft pencil.
and a
For
WORKING-DRAWINGS drawing straight
lines,
chisel-shape {A, Fig. 97),
upon a piece
a pencil
should be sharpened
which may be done by rubbing
No. 00 sandpaper, and
of
drawing curved
lines
it
95
for lettering
it
and
should be rubbed to a point {B,
For ordinary
Fig. 97).
lettering in ink, Gillott's
Nos. 303 and 170 Pens are most
satis-
No. 659
factory, while a
should be used for very
work.
fine
Drawing .
11
Spe-
Ink.
ITT India
—
Drawing-ink Bottle with Cardboard Collar to prevent Upsetting;.
^^^- ^°--
prepared
cially
ink (Higgins' Waterproof India Ink
is
almost universally
used) should be bought for use in preparing ink drawings.
This comes
the end of (Fig.
102).
in
small bottles with a quill upon
the cork with which to
Drawing inks may
An Ink
fill
the
ruling-pen
also be
had
in
colors.
Eraser and a Pencil Eraser
are also required, and an
Erasing Shield (Fig. 103)
is
convenience as a protection Fig. 103.
— Erasing
Shield.
may be lines will
lines close to those erase, as
a great to
the
which you wish
to
an opening of the proper size
placed over that portion, and the surrounding
be covered.
One
of these shields
can easily be
prepared out of a piece of thin brass.
About the most unfortunate thing which
a
young
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
96
draftsman experiences
on a drawing
upon
it.
after
This
the bottle
is
frequently
when
is
the upsetting of his ink-bottle
is
working perhaps three or four days certain to happen sooner or later, if
set without a holder
the boy
is
upon the
and
table,
Figure 102 shows
careless.
a simple protection, consisting of a cardboard collar cut to
fit
over the neck of the bottle and of a laree enough
diameter to
make
it
impos-
sible to upset the ink.
A Home-made and
such
Inkstand
shown
in
Fig.
convenient.
off Fig. 104.
— Cigar-box
Pencil
the top of the cork
Box and
when
box
the
to hold
104
as is
is
very
made out One corner
It is
of a cigar box.
of
Box
Pencil
is
partitioned
the ink-bottle,
and the cover has a hole cut through it so it will fit over
closed.
The box
will serve the
purpose of a receptacle not only for pencils, but for your pens, thumb-tacks, erasers, and erasing shield as well.
You may use small -ounce flat-head tacks for holding down drawing-paper, but these are not as easily removed i
as regular
Thumb-tacks,
the
best form of
which
is
shown
in
Fig- 93.
Drawing-paper specially prepared for pencil or ink
be purchased in sheets or
rolls.
For
common
use,
may how-
i
WORKING-DRAWINGS
97
Manila wrapping paper
ever, butchers'
serve the
will
purpose, and the back of smooth medium-weight wall-
paper has a good surface.
Out-of-date
stock of wall-
paper can be purchased for a few cents a chief trouble with the
up when erased, but
common
paper
this will not
is
that
The
roll.
roughens
it
be a serious objection for
your shop drawings, and when you wish to prepare better
may copy them upon
appearing drawings, you
better
paper.
The
white-lined drawings which you have seen
known
blue paper are
as
Blueprints and are printed the
same way that
a
upon
paper
sensitized
photograph blueprint
The
a plate or film.
upon
is
negative in this case
in
made from is
prepared
upon which
Tracing-cloth,
a linen specially prepared so as
is
to be very transparent, or
Tracing-paper,
cloth or paper
everything
is
is
which tacked
is
The
a very transparent paper.
down over
traced off upon
upon the drawing below. dull side, the
upon
it
The
former the right
the drawing, and then
with ink exactly as cloth has a glazed
side,
it
is
and a
but the latter the one
generally preferred by draftsmen as the better working surface. is
To make
the ink flow smoothly, talcum powder
dusted upon the cloth and rubbed over
to cut
any
oil
it
which may have collected upon the surface.
Ink lines erase very easily from the cloth, and lines
and
with a rag
dirt
may be
all
pencil
cleaned off after the tracing has
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
98
been finished by wiping with a rag wet use water, for
it
in
benzine (do not
on the
cloth),
of the cloth for ink tracings
almost
will ruin the finish surface
which makes the use
Trac-
universal.
ing-paper
used,
is
generally, for I making pencil copies ings,
draw-
of
and
for
mak-
ing one drawing
another
over when Fig. io6.
same
the
measurements are to be used in both,
as will
explained
be
later.
After a tracing
been pre-
has
pared in
105-107.— Details of Home-made Blueprint ^^^"^^*
of blueprint paper
exposed and washed
picCC glass
placed over
is
the
placed
printing-
frame upon
FiG. 105. Figs.
it is
in the
it,
of
a
clear
and a piece
then the paper
is
same way that an ordinary
you own a photograph printingframe, you can make your drawings to a small enough blueprint
scale to
is
made.
fit it,
but
If
it is
a simple matter to construct
\
;
WORKING-DRAWINGS
A Home-made in Fig. 105.
or a similar
A good scheme is shown
Printing-frame.
may
99
made out of frame can be made with the This
be
a picture-frame,
corners mitered
and a rabbet formed on the inside by tacking narrow strips to the frame strips, as shown in Fig. 107. The
wooden back must be provided with a spring attachment to make an equal pressure upon all parts, so there will be perfect contact between the paper and tracing at all points
Make
(Fig. 106).
piece
end
possible,
if
to
keep
C
cut strip
and
back out
and fasten a
cleat across
(A and B,
from warping
it
it
near each
Fig. 106), then
proper length to reach from
of the
one
of i-inch stuff, in
A
to
B
D
to
reach from side to side of the frame.
C and
D
together at their centers, boring a hole
strip
Screw
this
through
D for the screw to
run through so this strip
Cto
turn easily, and screw the ends of
^ and B.
will
Fasten
upon each side of the strip I? enough so they
a metal sash-lift in the proper place
frame, and bevel off the ends of
The
under them.
will slip
strips
proper thickness so that strip I? the shape of a
bow
to slip its
this places a pressure
strips
A
upon
and B, and the
of the frame.
must be cut
will
have
ends under the
strip C,
which
latter distribute
The back
of the
smoothed out
wrinkles.
A
it
be bent in sash-lifts
transfers
it
to
over the back
frame should be covered
with a piece of thin cotton-flannel place and
to
to the
;
this
carefully so
must be glued
in
there will be no
cheaper grade of paper than that used for
photographic work
is
manufactured for blueprinting, and
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
loo
this
can be purchased in
Use a small piece
put up in sealed tubes.
rolls
paper to make a test print upon, to
of
determine the proper length of time for exposure. Preparing Working-drawings.
Before laying out a set of
working-drawings, the general plan of the piece of work
must be sketched out, and the various dimensions and All this the method of construction determined upon. preliminary work may be done very roughly.
The
first
part to lay out
and sections.
It is
is
the plan, then the elevations
work out a secthe same time, as in the
often necessary to
tion before the elevations, or at
case of a house where the heights of the exterior features are determined
by the wall and
By
floor construction.
shown in Fig. 92, the lines of the plan may be continued down (^projected) for the cross-secplacing the drawings as
tion,
and the heights maybe projected horizontally
left for
the front elevation and to the right for the side ele-
vation, while the corner spaces
drawings. of the
to the
may
be
filled
with detail
In the details of the dog-house, the side lines
ends were projected up from the front elevation, and
those of the sides w^ere carried up from the side elevation.
Although there are many other schemes set of drawings, this is to use in
about the simplest method for you
your work, which
more complicated work in the
for laying out a
it
will is
be more or less simple.
In
general practice, especially
planning of buildings, to place a piece of
trac-
ing-paper over the plan after that has been laid out, and to lay out the section
upon
this,
then to place another
i
;
WORKING-DRAWINGS
loi
piece of tracing-paper over the section and lay out a front
upon
elevation
makes
it
The
this.
transparency of the paper
possible for the draftsman to see through the
sheets and, without having to lay out the
the heights again, to
mark them
just as they are located
off
main widths and upon the top sheet
upon the plan and section sheets
After the front elevation has been laid out, one
below.
of the side elevations is
prepared in the same way, from
the plan and either the front elevation or section
;
opposite side elevation and the rear elevation are
made
the
by reversing the side elevation and front elevation sheets and tracing
off the
similar portions
and changing the
rest to suit the plan.
Lay out your drawings with check up your measurements, and right,
a light line if
go over the work and make
first,
then
everything appears, all
all
the outlijies heavy.
Cross-hatch (shade with diagonal lines placed at equal distances apart)
all
portions of the plan and section which
are " cut through," in order to
and which
in elevation,
show which
is
in section
and change the direction
of the
cross-hatching upon adjoining pieces to accent the point
where one piece ends and another begins.
After the draw-
ing has been completed.
Draw
upon the plan, section, elevations, and details wherever measurements are necessary (these should be broken lines and be lighter than the outlines) then fill in the dimensions in feet and inches. Besides the heavy and light full lines, and the broken Dimension-lines
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
I02
dimension-lines, you will have occasion to use
dash
and
line for center-lines
92),
dot-and-
upon the plan
to indicate
where sections have been made (Fig.
2i
and the dotted
upon plan, sections, elevations, and details the work concealed and that which is above or upon the opposite side (see Furniture Working-drawings, Chap. line to indicate
show where material
VI), and to
(see Fig. 262,
is
to be cut or folded
page 194).
Always leave a space
in
one corner of the sheet,
preferably the upper or lower right-hand corner, in which to
Letter the Title of your Drawing, your 7iame, the scale of the drawing,
(Fig. 92).
and the date upon which
may Draw
This lettering
drawing by heavy
lines.
it
is
finished
be separated from the
Marginal Lines around the outside of the drawing, and leave a margin of about of this line.
\ inch upon the sheet outside
Plain
Gothic Letters look best well made.
Always
between which to
rule
letter,
for
two
titles
and notes, when
light horizontal guide-lines
so that
it
will
be easy to keep
the tops and bottoms of the letters on a line, and
if
making vertical lines, you may use a angle with which to straighten them. have trouble
in
you tri-
If
you have carried out the exercises
chapters and studied carefully
all
of the
preceding
instructions, there
is
no reason why you should not be prepared to undertake
some simple cabinet making.
This work
better test of your skill as a craftsman than
be a
will
would any
other kind of carpentry. If I
am
not mistaken, what you boys want to
make
in
furniture are things which will be of practical use for
your
own room and
for other parts of the house,
things which will be suitable to give articles described
selected
with
away and
to sell.
and
The
upon the following pages have been
these points
in
mind.
After you have
turned out a few well-made pieces so you will have some
good samples
to show,
you should have no
securing enough orders relatives, to
enable you
business, especially a
when
at fairs,
to
and from friends and
work up a
month or
difficulty in
profitable
little
so before the holidays,
much in demand. Many boys are earning money in this way. The frontispiece shows the factory of " The Juvenile Manupractical gifts are
103
— HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
I04
Company," an organization of six energetic boys of Dayton, Ohio Masters Charles Deeds, Pres. and Gen. Mgr., Fulton Davisson, Jr., Vice Pres. and Supt, Robert Canby, Secy., Charles Whidden, Treas., and Stanley Raugh and Evan Whidden. These boys are doing a flourishing business, and from the excellent work they are turning out it is no wonder that they are facturing
—
succeeding so
The
well.
firm has issued an attractive
catalogue of 8 pages containing illustrations of their line of goods, a
group photograph
of Directors,
which boys,
an exterior view
up
is fitted
in a
— and two views
of the oflicers of the oflice
and Board
and
factory,
playhouse belonging to one of the of
completed orders loaded on
to
automobiles ready for local delivery and shipment to out-
The
of-town customers. following
:
—
" The plant
and
all
is
catalogue states, in part, the
running Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays after school,
day Saturdays.
Visitors are
welcome on Saturdays.
" Only the best materials are used, and no cheap laborers are em-
ployed *'
;
the officers and Board of Directors
The purchaser more value
getting
of any article produced by this
"
men Our
is
is
not only
money paid than he could get at any store, encouraging a Company of energetic little busi-
is
to get a training
business
Company
for the
but at the same time ness
do the work themselves.
which
is
most
practical.
meeting with great success.
We
are always behind
Our customers are our best advertisers because we them more for their money than they can get anywhere else."
with our orders. give
You
will
what these
have to hustle some, boys, to accomplish lads have, but there
is
no reason why you
Fig.
Fig. 110.
111.
o^
f1tW^'
~'-~-:^A
Fig. 108.
Fig. 113.
Fig. 109.
Fig. 112.
Fig. 108.
Fig. 109. Figs. 110
Figs. 113,
Whisk-Broom Holder. Clock-Shelf. Necktie-Racks. 111. Book-Racks. 113 and 114.
and
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
105
cannot make a success of a similar enterprise in your
you know of a number of fellows who would be good workers and would have enough stick-toit-iveness in them to keep up an interest in the work. The articles shown opposite page 104 are especially good material for the beginner to start upon on account
own home town
if
of the simplicity of their construction.
There are a number of varieties of wood well adapted to amateur furniture making, and these are mentioned in Chapter III, while the matter of Choice of Material.
Chapter IV.
finish is discussed in
A a
Whisk-broom Holder such as
handy
of l^-inch stuff
parts
different
(Fig. 115).
back piece of
wood
(which
is
cut as
It
in Fig.
108
is
should be made out
| inch thick dressed) with the
shown
in
In order to get the alike, first
shown
draw a
the working-drawings
two side edges
center-line
of the
upon the piece
as shown, then lay off the dimensions each side
Draw
of this. it
bedroom.
article for a
is
the curve
upon the other
center-line, tracing
upon one
side,
side at an equal it
get the curves alike.
then reproduce
distance from the
off with a piece of tracing-paper to
Lay
off the tapered
edges
of the
same way. pieces prepared, nail them
front piece each side of a center-line in the
With
the front, back, and side
together with
i-inch
sandpaper, putty, and
A
Clock-shelf
which
is
is
brads, set
the
brad-heads,
then
finish.
a neat
gift,
easily constructed.
and Fig. 109 shows one
Make
this out of
i-inch
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
io6
After cutting the top and
stuff (J|- inch thick dressed). two brackets as shown in Fig.
1
16,
bevel the upper front
and the two diagonal j gauging the width and
of the top piece
and end edges
edges of each bracket piece,
Cer-j-reR-LiN/e--.^
FiG.
117.
— Detail
of Back of Necktie in Fig.
Rack showa
no. 8-
-4.
Fig. 115.
— Whisk-
broom
Holder
shown,
in Fig. 108.
r Fig. 118.
— Detail of
Back of Towel-rack shown
in
Fig. III.
TT
-^:...
....T-R
1+ ii. 8-
\^2'-j
FiG. 116.
depth
lA
— Details of Clock-shelf shown in Fig.
of the bevels
page 71 (see Bevel),
i
109.
and cutting them as described on Fasten the brackets to the top
piece with i^-inch finishing-nails in the positions indi-
cated by dotted lines in the drawing.
In the back view
EASILY
MADE FURNITURE
completed shelf (Fig. 109)
of the
fastening
under side
A
to a wall.
it
is
screw-eye
shown the method is
slip
of
screwed into the
of the shelf top, just inside of
and these eyes
107
each bracket,
over a couple of nails or screws driven
into the wall in corresponding positions.
The Necktie Rack shown of ^-inch stuff (see
in Fifi-
working-drawing
for
back
in Fig.
screwed into
seven brass screw-hooks
with
10 has a back cut out
1
it
1
17)
two
in
Scribe two pencil lines across the center of the
rows.
board about
inch apart, then starting at the center of
i
mark the
the length of the board,
location of the center
each side of this locate the other hooks
hook, and
inches apart, alternating
Fasten two screw-eyes
them on the two
in
lines as
2
shown.
the top of the board, one at
each end, by means of which to hang the rack upon the wall.
In Fig.
1 1 1
is
shown
a rack which
may
be used either
for a necktie rack or
A
Cut the back board out of l-inch out according to the working-drawing (Fig.
Towel-rack.
laying
it
stuff, 1
18),
and procure a short brass extension curtain-rod for the
The
front.
rod will be furnished with screw-hooks with
which to fasten
it
to the
in so the rod will set
i
board
;
these should be screwed
inch away for a necktie rack or 3
inches away for a towel-rack.
Book-racks of three forms have been designed, for they are so to
commonly used upon
keep
in order the
books
the library table of the in
immediate
home
use, that
you
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
io8 will
probably wish to
rack shown in Fig.
make more than one
1 1
the base piece
2
each end for the end pieces to
fit
1
of the base pieces to
mortises
fit
3
In the
grooved near 119), while in
in (Fig.
tenons are cut on the ends
the rack show^n in Fig.
1
is
kind.
and these tenons are held
made
in the
place by
in
end
means
pieces,
of pins
The
driven into holes bored through them (Fig. 120). latter rack possesses
one advantage over the former, and
that Hes in the fact that
any time and
its
compact form.
its
pins
may be withdrawn
pieces pulled apart and put
To
away
in a
prevent sphtting, do the cutting of
the grooves and mortises in the
members
of the racks
before trimming off their ends, so there will be as
wood
at
much
as possible outside of the portions cut.
(For mak-
ing mortise-and-tenon joints, see page 61.)
After the
racks have been put together and finished, glue strips of felt to
the bottoms to prevent
surface
upon which they
them from scratching any
stand.
An Extension Book-rack is a little more complicated to make than the above two, but the work is not difificult. The rack shown in Fig. 114 is 16 inches long between the ends when pushed together and 28^ inches long when extended. Figure 121 shows the details for this rack. The base is made out of a i-by-4-inch tonguedand-grooved board, a piece about 3 feet long being quired, while the
end pieces are cut out
of
re-
i-inch stock.
The
idea of using the tongued-and-grooved board for the
base
is
that the tongues
and grooves
for the slides are
•
Center
Line INE
K
2" i
2."-A
^^''^'
Section-through base
^IW
ijtit'fh
T PLAN OF BASE
-ICM
1 16"-
FlG. 119.
— Details of Book-rack shown
in Fig. 112.
-16"
r't 5'MOLe FOR
Pi
Bevel-'
-It
PLAN OF BASE /
-MORTJijti)
V
I
If
fa
i'^.EBl' "I'D
Fig. 120.
— Details of Book-rack shown in Fig. t<
r^f'-j^ ^l'^
h
-^1
113.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
no
already made, and you will be saved the trouble of cut-
A
ting them.
The tongue on
pieces, Fig.
121), with the exception of a 2-inch piece
is left
on piece
and
groove
to slide in the
B is
left for
B may be
in piece
(see plan of base
D, while the groove
D
the tongue on
A
to slide in.
ripped from opposite edges of the tongued-
and-grooved board. width of
piece
Piece
D (without
C should
be cut to the exact
tongue or groove), while
strip
E
should be equal in length to the combined widths of A^
B, and D.
After the base pieces and the two end pieces
have been prepared,
B to
the ends of
nail
C and
one end
of base pieces
A
and
the opposite end to the upper
face of piece E.
The ends
of the rack
may
ends of the base pieces, but place, as the
ends
may
be nailed directly to the
it is
better to hinge
be folded
doing, and the rack packed
away
flat
at
them
in
any time by so
Buy
in a small space.
two pairs of f-inch by i-inch brass hinges, and hinge one end to piece C and the other end to piece D, notching the ends of
C and
D just enough
The drawings show
to receive the hinges.
Strip
the locations for the hinges.
prevents the ends of
A and B from
springing apart.
E To
prevent the rack from pulling apart lengthwise, drive a small nail into the under side of piece D, as sectional drawing, so strips of felt to the
it
shown
in the
E.
Glue
will strike against strip
bottoms
of the
Of the medium-sized pieces
end pieces and
strip
E,
of furniture,
Tabourets and Plant Stands are probably most In de-
Fig. 122.
Fig. 124.
Fig. 125. Fig. 123.
Figs. 122
Fig. 124.
Fig. 125.
and 123, Tabourets. Plant Stand. Footstool.
I
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
mand,
for the living-room or library
is
iii
not complete now-
adays without one or two of these to hold fancy vases, jardiniers, fern dishes,
limit to the
for them,
number
but you
and potted
There
no
is
which could be devised
of shapes
will
plants.
probably find the three designs
shown opposite page no of varied enough character make the construction of one of each worth while.
to
In
presenting the working-drawings for the tabourets and plant stands, as well as those for the other pieces of furniture of an equal or a larger size,
A
sions of each part of
showing the exact finished dimenthe work, and the number of pieces
of like size required,
has been placed alongside or above
List of Material
the details.
amount
These
lists will
help you in figuring up the
of material necessary for each piece of work, but
they are not in proper shape to take to the mill or lumber yard from which to order, for
it
will
be cheaper to com-
bine pieces which can be cut out of boards of stock widths
and lengths and do the sawing what
articles
you wish
to construct,
matter to estimate exactly
Of
After deciding
yourself. it
how much
is
a very simple
material you will
enough additional length and width over the finished dimension must be allowed on each piece for the waste produced in sawing and truing up. require.
course,
In preparing the top for
The Tabouret shown
in Fig. 122 (Fig. 126), first plane
up the piece to the proper dimensions, then mark the triangular pieces
which are
to
off
be removed from the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
112
corners and saw them the
carefully,
legs
will
Bevel the edges of the
The
exactly
right.
±
shown, with a
chisel.
I
corners
the
fit
work has been done
the
If
off.
legs, as
diagonal leg braces, or stretchers, are halved at
their centers (see Halved-joint,
page
Wnfen these
60).
them across the top piece in the position indicated by dotted lines on the plan, to see that the ends come even with, and at right have been joined
angles
to,
together,
lay
Then procure No.
the corners.
9,
round-head,
blued finishing-screws, if inches long, and screw the pieces together as shown (see Screws, page 72). After making a tabouret or any other piece of furniture. If
you
find the
Legs rest unevenly upon the
simple matter to correct the
and put a chip under of
wood
of just
it
it is
a \
Locate the short leg
fault.
to block
floor,
it
up, then cut a block
.
the right thickness to slip under this 1
short leg, and, with,
it
as a gauge, sUde
it
around the
four sides of each of the long legs, and scribe a knife line across It is
each side on a line with the top
of the block.
then a simple matter to finish off the legs to these
lines.
The Tabouret shown
work than
in
Fig. 123 requires a
little
that in Fig. 122, as the panel pieces
127) are tenoned into the rails
A
more \
C (Fig.
and B, and the ends
the rails are tenoned into the legs; but mortising
simple operation once mortise-and-tenon
is
it
one
is
of
a
has been mastered, and the of
the most
commonly used
•Ill
^
List of
mate"
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
114
and one
joints
methods
of the strongest of the
of joining
cabinet-maker's
The
together work.
operation of
mortising and the preparation of the tenons
The
scribed on pages 61-65. pieces
inch
is
tion of
fully de-
mortises for the ends of
C
need not be more than \ inch deep, while \ and B. See descripsufficient for the ends of
A
Bench on page
tenoned work. of
is
1
1
assembling mortised-and-
7 for
Secure the top piece to the legs by means
round-head screws such as are specified for the other
tabouret.
The Plant Stand
more or furniture.
less
illustrated
along the lines
by Fig. 124 is designed of the much-used mission
For the working-drawings see Fig.
The
128.
preparation of the mortises and tenons for the connection of the stretcher to the
end pieces
will
be easy,
if
you have
carried out the exercises suggested in Chapter II L
mortises are slightly ujtderctct on the outer end to
them correspond with the taper on the -jlg
pins,
The make
and are cut
inch inside of the line of the side pieces, as you will
see by looking at the dimensions on the stretcher, so
that the pins will drive the end pieces tight against the
shoulders of the stretcher.
A
Footstool, with a shelf
magazines may be for a
den or
simple lines ings for this
piled,
library.
below on which the current
makes
An
handy piece
of furniture
attractive design for one along
shown in Fig. are shown in Fig. is
top, the shelf,
a
and the end
125.
The working-draw-
129.
After preparing the
pieces, fasten the shelf
and
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
ii6
ends together by means of the pins, then secure the top
between the ends with round-head screws. quarter-round
upper side
A
strip of
small molding) should be nailed to the
(a
of the top
along each side edge, as shown in
the cross-section, for a
ground
to hold out the sides of
the upholstering, and a narrow strip should be nailed to
each end piece ^ inch below the top for a ground to tack the upholstering cover to. Upholstering Material can be purchased at almost any
You
dry-goods store.
will require
some
hair for
filling,
cheese-cloth or light-weight muslin for covering the hair,
2-ounce cut tacks for fastening the cloth, leather, imitation leather, or
heavy denim for the top covering, and large-
match the top material. Perhaps you can get some hair from an old pillow or mattress, and your mother probably can furnish you with the head tacks covered
to
Leather
cloth covering.
is
rather expensive, about $3 a
yard, while the imitation leather can be purchased for
about $1.25 a yard
The
cents a yard. leather use.
and
is
(i
yard wide), and denim
imitation leather wears better than real
probably the most satisfactory material to
Tacks with
large heads,
match leather or imitation from 3 to 5 cents a dozen. To upholster the top of the cloth
side
and
over
it
made
leather,
of a
composition to
can be bought for
of the Footstool, first lay a piece
and tack
it
to the
ground along one
grounds along the ends, thus forming a which to stuff the hair. The cloth must be
to the
pocket in
will cost 15
;
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY loose
enough
117
to allow for sufficient packing,
may be
but as
it
will
Pack the hair into the farther side and the two ends, first, and use a small stick with which to push it into the right The work is not difficult, but it must be done places. carefully, and all hollows must be filled out as you go stretch considerably
make
along in order to near side
and tack
is filled,
to
it
it
pulled fairly tight.
When
a nicely shaped top.
the
stretch the cloth tightly over the hair
quarter-round
the
hair held in place
With
groufid.
by the cloth covering,
it
is
the
an easy
Draw
matter to put on the leather or other covering.
a
upon the edges of the wood top to indicate the edge of the covering, and f inch or J inch above this draw another line parallel to it upon which to locate the tack holes; also draw a guide-line along the top of each end ground for the end tack holes. Space the holes upon these lines \\ inches from center to center, or as near to line
make
that as will
all
the spaces equal, and punch holes
for the tacks with a brad-awl
they
are.
Turn
in the
around, then fasten
The Bench V,
in the
it
which
is
trifle
smaller than
edge of the covering material
in place
all
with the tacks.
photograph opposite page 86, Chapter
a neat-appearing piece of furniture suitable for a
is
bedroom or any
of the living-rooms.
construction are
shown
legs
a
and end
then,
when
rails,
in
Fig.
1
30.
The
details for its
First,
prepare the
and mortise and tenon them
the pieces have been fitted properly,
tenons and the mortises with letters in such a
shown mark the way that
as
EASILY
you
will
know
just
MADE FURNITURE
which
up and which face turns
which edge
into which,
fits
119
.
is
Next, cut the mortises in
out.
the lower rails for the stretcher, then prepare the stretcher as in the detail, trim its rails
ends
and mortise them for the
be cut next.
Where
and a tenon, as should be
all
in the
fitted
the mortises in the
fit
The
pins.
side rails should
the joints consist of a mortise
member when all the
case of this bench, each
and tested
members have been
to
as cut;
then,
them together and go over the whole piece of work, and if any trimming is required, mark the locations. Then take the members apart, trim where you have found it necessary and sandpaper each The beveling of the tops of the legs and ends of piece. the stretcher
may
cut,
be
fit
left until this
stage of the construc-
tion (do this beveling with a chisel).
Assemble the pieces in the order in which you prepared them, and coat the end of each tenon and the inside of each mortise with glue before fitting them in place. After the glue has had time to set, cut the top piece to fit between the upper rails and fasten it in place with screws. Before boring holes for the screws,
where the large tacks are
to
locate
the places
go so you can avoid them.
Nail a piece of qtiarter-round along the top edge of each of the
ing
upper
rails to
hold in the edges of the upholster-
filling.
Finish
then
upholster
manner described for the material must be cut very
Footstool.
the
w^ood,
the
top
in
the
The covering
carefully at the corners
and
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
I20
be turned
about
1
neatly around the legs.
in
Space the tacks
1 Inches on centers.
With
the general increase in the reading of monthly,
semimonthly, and weekly magazines comes the pilAlem taking care of the back numbers with which the
of
family are not entirely through, for the accumulation rapid,
and a place must be found where they can be piled
some kind
in
is
of order.
Magazine-racks
made upon
the plan of open bookcases,
but with the shelves spaced closer together, solve the
problem at the
keeping them within convenient reach and
of
same time
Fig.
illustrated in
As
131
shown
is
The magazine-rack
manner.
in a tidy
in detail in Fig.
135.
the ends of this spread out at the bottom, the end
must have their ends cut off on The way to get the proper angle for
pieces and the shelves the diagonal.
trimming
off these
ends
to lay the
is
end pieces upon
the floor on their edges, at the given distances apart, and
near the top and
then tack a strip across the edges
bottom
to hold
them temporarily
in that position.
Then
place the finished top piece against the tops of the end pieces and you will see just quire.
If
you have a bevel (Fig.
and mark
this angle
accordingly
very careful or
also
;
the bevel the
same,
now much trimming
off the
mark
off
34,
page
they
26), set
it
re-
to
ends of each end piece
the
shelf
ends.
Without
work may be done with a square, but be to lay out each end of each piece the
the
pieces
will
not
fit
satisfactorily.
The
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
122
shelves and top are
fastened
the end pieces with
to
round-head screws.
The magazine-rack shown
Fig. 132 has shelves of
in
the widths vary, as
equal length, but
cross-section detail (Fig.
is
shown
in the
Fasten the shelves to
136).
the end pieces with round-head screws.
The Music-cabinet shown in
Fig.
attractive piece of furniture for a
133 will
make an
music room.
First,
prepare the end pieces and the J^helves (Fig. 137), then after these pieces
have been fastened together, put on the
back boards and make and hang the paneled door. The best scheme for making a tight-fitting back is to use matched-and-beaded boards (known as M-&-B
A
ceiling).
board always shrinks crosswise of the grain (but not
lengthwise), and also expands and contracts to a certain
extent with the changes in
movement must be provided
for
gether, or there will be trouble. net, for
example.
atmosphere, and
the
Here the back
in joining
Take will
this
pieces to-
the music-cabi-
shrink and swell in
the width of the cabinet, but the shelves will not, as their
grain runs the other way, and under these conditions, the back
boards are wide, and are
nailed to the shelves, they are
ing or buckle (bulge out) in
bound
fitted
if
snugly and
to split in shrink-
swelling, for
the
shelves
move with them but if the boards are narrow, the movement in each piece will of course be very slight, and the small amount that there is may be taken care of will
not
in the joints,
;
where,
if
the boards are matched and beaded,
>
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
124
Rabbet the two side pieces and the top and bottom shelf (see Rabbet, page 65) so the boards of the back will set flush with the edges, and it
will not
be noticeable.
plane off enough of the back edge of the middle shelf to allow the boards to pass (see Cross-section).
Cut the
rabbets about ^ inch wide by the thickness of the boards.
Use
finishing-nails
and
pieces,
nail the
for
together the
nailing
cabinet
boards of the back to the rabbeted
shown in the rear elevation. The details show an original idea for constructing a paneled door, which so simplifies the work that any boy
surfaces as
will find
such a door easy to make.
stiles of
the frame are
made
board with the groove
left
of a
on
it
The
rails
and the
tongued-and-grooved
to receive the
edges
of
Tenons are cut upon the ends of the rails, and mortises are made in the stiles to receive them, and the panel.
the board used for the panel of
one face to
fit
is
rabbeted on the edges
the grooves in
the frame.
The
rail
tenons should be about \\ inches long, and the mortises a
trifle
deeper, and the panel board
must
fit
loosely in the
edges and the
frame, with plenty of space between
its
bottom
movement caused
of the groove, to allow for the
by the expansion and contraction of the wood. Glue the frame together, but leave the panel loose. A paneled door
is
usually
opening it
to
this.
in
made
which
a
it is
trifle
to
the opening; the
larger
all
around than the
be hinged, to allow iox fitti^tg
dimensions given provide
for
Fig. 134
Figs. 131
Fig. 133.
and
— Music-Cabinet.
132.
— Magazine-Racks. — Umbrella-Stand. Fig, •
134.
EASILY
Buy
MADE FURNITURE
a pair of brass butts of
the
125
shown with
size
which to hinge the door in place, and screw these to the edge of the door, notching the edge enough to receive
A
the full thickness of the folded hinge.
which stile,
shown
in the detail
(a Mortise-lock),
shown
neatest appearing job, but the lock (a
Half-mortise lock)
is
easier to put
done on the inside face of the
makes the above
it
on as the cutting
is
With
stile.
lock,
edge of the door
sets into a mortise cut in the
as
cupboard
just
either lock the
selvage-plate [the front plate
through which the ^<9// passes]
must be
edge
set flush with the
of the stile.
Upon
the
face of the stile carefully locate the key-pin, then cut a
hole a
trifle
mortise.
larger than the key through the stile into the
After the lock has been screwed in place and
properly adjusted, tack an escutcheon plate over the keyhole to finish
it
off.
Locate where the lock bolt strikes the
side of the cabinet, for
it
and cut a small pocket
to turn into.
side of the top shelf
strip of
strike against.
that point
Directly inside of the door tack a
wood to the under and another down each side, as stop narrow
at
strips for the
door to
These must be adjusted so the door
will
close properly.
Figure 134 shows a new idea for
An
Umbrella-stand, and
construction.
The
Fig.
138
base holds a
the
tin
details
for its
muflin-pan, each
cup of which forms a receptacle for an umbrella end.
These pans are made with so
you can plan your stand
six,
eight, or twelve cups,
to hold as
many
umbrellas
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
126
as
Make
you wish.
the two frames of equal size and
enough to hold the rim of the muffin-pan (the the pan used will determine the dimensions of
just large size of
these
using strips
frames),
2
inches
then cut
wide,
them
four uprights of the sizes shown, and fasten
to the
four corners so that they will just conceal the joints in
The
the frames (see plan).
muffin-pan should
enough ff
in
frame so
moved PUAN^
ing.
it
fit
loosely
the
lower
may be
re-
easily for clean-
should
It
be
painted w^ith a couple of coats
enamel
to
Make two frames) like this''
Fig. 138.
ENO- ELEVATION
give
— Details of Umbrella-stand shown
makes
the ends of the rails as
to
in the
rails,
posts
|-
to
shown
in Fig. 139
is
First
rails (Fig. 143),
inch deep to receive
then prepare the front and rear
shown and make mortises in the posts ^ inch Next cut the stretcher as it is receive them.
detailed in the plan, mortise the lower
end
ends to run through, and prepare pins to er's
as
Chair such
a pretty seat for a hall or reception-room.
and cut mortises
from
a finish.
prepare the four corner posts and the end
deep
well
it
A Roman
in Fig. 134.
as
it
register-
keep
as
rusting, SIDEELEVmTION
dull
of
mortises.
Read
fit
rails for its
the stretch-
the instructions given upon page
117 for marking, fitting together, and gluing the mor-
!
LIST OF MATERIAL
|
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
128
and tenoned pieces
tised in
Roman
assembling the
inside face of
then
slats,
the
cut
four
the
Bench^ and follow these
of the
Chair.
Nail a cleat to the to support the seat
seat rails
proper length
the
to
slats
and
them to the cleats, spacing them \ inch apart. Screw the arm pieces to the tops of the posts and to the top end rails, using round-head screws. nail
You
mother or
assistance of
your
the cushion for the
seat.
probably require
will
sister
in
making
the
This should be about 2\ inches thick, and should be stuffed with hair and tacked every 4 or 5 inches with strong
examining
method
of
to hold
thread
linen
cushion,
a
or
to
mattress,
By the
sewing together the cover so as to give the be understood.
will
have to be pliable enough
will
around the corner
fit
bed
even a
cushion a square box effect
cushion
the filling in place.
The
at the corners
as shown.
posts,
Figure 140 shows an attractive design for
A
Mission Chair, and Fig. 144 includes the necessary
working
The
details.
waste piece
left
may be
front legs
after cutting out the
tised rails
\ inch
and the seat
shown
\ inch
rails
are
of the rails, the lower
for the
ends of the stretcher,
braced with corner blocks, as
in the small detail plan.
two pieces
of
The
an 8-inch board and
of the seat rails flush
legs are mor-
ends
to receive the
are mortised
back legs; bevel
The
the tops of these pieces as shown.
cut from the
is
seat
is
made
out of
nailed to the tops
with the outside face of the
rails.
Fig. 140.
Fig.
Fig. 139.
Fig, 142.
—a
—^Ax
Fig. 141 14:^.
Roman
Chair.
Electric Lamp.
Fig. 140.
A
Fig. 141.
A
Mission Chair. Mission Writixg-Df.sk.
EASILY
MADE FURNITURE
129
Upholster the seat as described on page 116 for the Footstool, only
do not put on a greater thickness
the hair filling than
is
shown
in
the
of
cross-section of
the chair.
A
Mission
Fig. 141
is
Writing-desk such
easy to construct.
as
that
illustrated
in
After preparing the legs LIST
0'=
MATERIAL
)
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
I30
the end rails for
its
ends to set
The
in.
material box
is
completed by adding two boards, one for the bottom and the other for the back
As
with iinishing-nails. top
hinged
is
these
;
may
the front portion of the desk
back portion,
to the
material box, you will be saved the
wide
The back board
top.
be fastened in place
neatly around the back legs.
of
to give access to the
work
of gluing
up a
the top must be fitted
Hinge
the front portion of
the top to the back portion with a pair of brass butts
inches by tised as
2
inches in
shown,
letter-rack,
and
The back
size.
this
must be morthe back of the
legs
receive the ends of
to
i|-
back piece must be slipped into place
same time that the shelf ends are slipped into the mortises in the end rails. The front of the letter-rack is at the
screwed to the front face of the back
As mentioned number
legs.
before, in a big piece of
work where
of the parts are mortised-and-tenoned,
thing together,
first,
before gluing or nailing
fit
a
every-
any part
in
place permanently.
With
electricity
ing dwellings,
oil
coming
into general usage for light-
and gas lamps are being displaced by
electric lamps.
An
Electric
Lamp with
very simple to make.
a
wooden stand and base
is
Figure 142 shows an attractive
design for a desk or table lamp, fitted with one of the perforated brass lamp-shades described in Chapter XIII.
The 146).
stand
is
made
in four pieces
(A, B, C, and D, Fig.
After cutting these to the dimensions given, and
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
B
beveling pieces
and
C
as shown, bore a f-inch hole
As
through the center of each. be too long for your
bit,
^31
bore
the hole through
it
A
will
halfway through from
each end, being careful to bore perfectly straight so the holes
the
meet af
will
Also
center.
bore a hole
same
the
of
diameter
through the center .
•
1
base
oi
as
shown,
meet the
vertical
piece to
f
1
one side
or
C,
These
hole.
are
Plan of Octagonal Cap
made
holes
deta-ls of "Separable
puug
.^
rPT 'Brass Smell
,:i'
-i'WOLE
<
''Binding-
SCRfWS
the
for
electric wires to
FOB
DROP-COfiO
Socket/ Binding ScRE*v-»
run
^
"BINDING"
Screw
Base
through.
The Socket for the
(Drop-CordI
OROP-CORD Kite
I
lamp
is
switch tacle,
a
Snap-
purchased
or 70 cents at
The
detail
C O^l' Fig. 146.
— Details
together
with a Separable
RECEPTACLE"
b:
Wall Recepand may be
»
Details OF KEY
Plug and
"Q"-^
of Electric
Lamp shown
in
Fig. 142.
lo feet of d^^op-cord for 65
any store where
electrical
goods are
drawings show the different parts
receptacle and plug, and the
of
sold.
the
co7inections caji safely be
made by any boy, for the whole thing is wired up, first, without any connectioji with live wires, then the upper part of the plug is screwed into a lamp socket in the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
132
same way is
that the plug of
any lamp or electrical appliance
attached, and the lower portion
The Wiring Operation twist the
ends
is
is
siiapped into
a very simple one.
of the wires as
'-FRONT RAIL
I
^5 CQ
^E.NC
-FRONT ELEVATION
First un-
shown, and scrape
^ORavvinG BOARD Top (3r-x42'^
I
L
it.
off the
MADE FURNITURE
EASILY
133
and tighten the screws to hold them in place. Next run the other end of the wire through the top of the lampstand and work
it
out through the hole in the side of the
base piece, then screw the base of the socket to
put the shell and bushing back in place. of the
drop-cord should be connected
The
D and
other end
the binding-
to
screws of the lower part of the plug.
The shown
holder required in Fig. 289,
the
lamp-shade
is
page 215.
Opposite page 86
A
support
to
shown
is
a view of
Drafting Table the author has used in his
number of do enough
Probably not
home workmany of you
room
for a
years.
boys
will
drafting to require such a table for
makes a splendid desk table, and reason working details for its construction are
the purpose, but for this
it
also
The
given in Fig. 147.
aprons, back,
legs,
rails,
and
lower shelf are screwed together, no mortising entering into the table's construction.
and
for the top of the table,
as shown,
by means
A drawing-board was used
this
is
held securely in place,
hooks and screw-eyes.
of
A
large
drawing-board can be purchased as cheaply as you can have one made, and
it
will
be built up of well-seasoned
material and be properly cleated so that
out of shape or
A (see
Desk
Table,
split.
If
you want
to
it
will
not warp
make
dowel and glue together the top boards
Dowel-Joint, page
68),
or,
better
still,
have
this
It will work done at a mill if there is one near by. not cost much, and you will save a good deal of time by
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
134
doing.
SO
Of
course, the
for drafting also, as a
desk
table
may
be used
drawing-board can be laid upon
the table top.
The Electric Fixture shown over the author's table the photograph opposite page 86 of brass tubing
end
of a piece of
was made out
table,
if
of a piece
from an old gas-lamp, fastened to the tubing from an extension curtain-rod.
Use your ingenuity and construct a your
in
there
is
electric light in
similar fixture for
your house.
m^a CHAPTER
VII
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE
Modern work of in
inventions are doing
of the
much
to
lighten the
housekeeper, and the extensive advertising
numerous labor-saving devices now being carried on the various newspapers and miagazines is awakening
a oreneral interest in all sorts of
The
fact that
women
household conveniences.
are adding these articles to their
working equipment more and more, as they begin to realize the time and labor which may be saved by their use,
should be enough to suggest to you energetic boys
who have an eye
for business that there
money
portunity to earn ing advantage
is
a splendid op-
outside of school hours, by tak-
of the publicity that is
being given to
these household contrivances and manufacturing a line of articles of
expect
to
your own
to sell.
Of
course, you can hardly
have vacuum cleaners and
electric fiatirons,
and other such conveniences, but the simpler things which you can con-
toasters, percolators,
there are
many
of
struct, especially
just as
As
good
those
made out
of
wood, which
will
be
as those sold in the stores.
a line of samples could not be carried 135
around very
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
136
easily, unless
you
built a
wagon
especially for the pur-
and as a prospective customer would naturally wish see what an article is like, the best method of showing
pose, to
goods to those who cannot conveniently your house would be to take some photographs
your
line
come
to
of
them,
of
or,
you haven't a camera,
if
make drawings
to
from the objects and prepare blueprints from these as described in Chapter V. /
The
shown upon the following pages will give you a variety of good ideas to start with, and you will probably get suggestions from your mother and her friends for things which they have found very handy by adding the latter to your list you can make it more comarticles
;
You
plete.
one idea often suggests
will also find that
another.
The
A
ease with which
may be constructed, together with demand for them is growing greater
Fireless Cooker
the fact that the
every day, makes this a good article to begin work upon.
This kitchen convenience in
Norway, where
many
it
years, but over there
sils for
packing.
Its
advantages which of cooking. fire
It is
it
common
hay
use for a great
generally
is
it
is
popularity
known
as a
used around the uten-
is
number of cook-stove method
due
possesses over the
to a
only necessary to place the food over
long enough to start
into the cooker,
claimed to have originated
has been in
hay-stove from the fact that
a
is
it
cooking before putting
which not only makes a big saving
it
in
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE the gas-bill,
if
cooler kitchen time.
The
gas
is
used for
— which
is
fuel,
137
but also results in a
appreciable in
the
summer
insulation around the receptacles keeps the
cooking odors from getting out, and outside dust from getting
in,
and from the time the food
is
placed in the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
138
be converted into a cooker, but as the insulation around
must be as nearly perfect as it is possible to make it, such a box must have its boards driven toIf you make the box, and that is gether with tight joints. the better way, buy matched boards out of which to conthe receptacles
Figure 149 shows a plan of the box with the These two cover opened, and Fig. 150 a cross-section. struct
it.
working-drawings have the dimensions of the cooker
marked upon them, but the
sizes
so long as you allow for the
around the receptacles as
The box should
first
need not be adhered to
same amount
shown.
is
be lined, and for this purpose
Tack
newspapers are good as anything. layers of the paper
of insulation
a couple of
around the sides and to the bottom,
and over these paste
dozen thicknesses.
half a
The
first
sheets form a foundation to paste to; the other sheets
cover the breaks
make
made
in the
paper by the tacks and Batten together the
the insulation continuous.
cover boards upon the inside as shown, hinge the cover to the
back
hooks
to hold
of the box, it
down
tight,
from opening back too
bottom
of the
and a pair to
and provide far.
box so that
it
it
with a couple of
and a check-chain
to
keep
it
Fasten four casters to the
can be moved about
of trunk handles to the
ends to make
easily, it
easy
lift.
The
receptacles are
tin pails
make
the
or
shown
porcelain-lined
best kind
in Figs.
pails
1
of
of receptacles,
50 and 151. the
and a
sizes
Two shown
kettle small
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE enough
to
into the larger pail provides a
fit
139
good inner
Buy two pot covers to fit the large pails The kettle will hold cereals and all foods (Fig. 151). for steaming, and when this is used, the outer pail must be receptacle.
filled
with hot water to within about
Shallow pans
the kettle.
the tops of the pails
in
of food
directly in one of the pails, but
much
is
it
of the receptacle as possible,
draw away the heat from the
will
the advantage
comes
may
be placed
essential to
with
filled
fill
as
because waste space
food.
This
in of using the kettle or
where
is
pans when
cooking small quantities of food, for the outer be
fit
be provided for smaller
Large quantities
receptacles.
proper diameter to
of the
may
inch of the rim of
i
pail
may
Furnish your customers
boiling water.
with these instructions.
Boards
A,B,
C,
and
D
(Fig. 149) set even with the
Locate the
brims of the pails and conceal the packing.
brims of the pails on these boards,
and saw out the openings with a small saw. along the two sides of the box to boards
to, at
must be
nail
Nail cleats
the ends of the
the proper height for the larger
set 2 inches
pail,
sior in the
it
pack
bottom
which
above the bottom of the box.
Procure excelsior for packing and dampen water to make
shown,
in the positions
well.
of the
it
with
Place enough of the excel-
box
to
make
it
of the
right
height for the larger pail to set upon, and then put in
enough more pail
;
pack
to obtain the proper level for the smaller
in this excelsior as tight as
you
can.
The
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
I40
openings in the boards in the right positions.
around the excelsior,
will
guide you in setting the pails
Fill
up the balance
pails to the level of the cover boards with
and press
down
it
so as to
Allow the excelsior
as possible.
to
make
Make
it
compact
as
become thoroughly
The
dry before nailing on the cover boards.
draw out
of the space
pails will
of the excelsior easily, as their sides taper.
a cushion similar to that
shown
in
Fig. 152 to
the space between the top of the pails and the box
fill
This should be made
cover.
gether across the top so one show^n, to
make
it
upon the
You
it
thick
sections, joined to-
will fold
over the other as
possible to get at one receptacle with-
Stuff the cushion with excelsior,
out uncovering both.
and make
two
in
enough so the cover
wdll press
boys probably
means
will
be interested to
know
of
The
cooker
preparing rations while the troops are on
undoubtedly,
it
will
satisfactory
be adopted for such service.
cookers used in the test w^ere
scale,
that
fireless
the march, and that results have been so that,
down
pail covers.
The United States Army has tested the as a
it
made upon
were packed with the meat, beans,
a large
cereal, or other
food, at breakfast time, then carted along with the other
camp equipment, and when opened
at the
end
day's march, supplied a steaming hot meal to the
troopers without delay
method of awaiting the setting up fires, and cooking of food.
the of
— an improvement,
of the
hungry
certainly, over
of stoves, kindling
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE
A
Pot-cover Rack such as
the most satisfactory
one desired
way
of
shown
141
in Fig. 153 provides
keeping these covers, as the
always
is
within convenient reach
— which case
is
never the
when they are piled
up on a
shelf or
in a
drawer.
Figure 154 shows the pattern
the
for
pieces
of
Space
the
the
side rack.
slots
as
shown, then cut along the side lines of each slot
with a saw and remove the
wood with
a chisel.
Notch the back edges
as
Fig. 153.
— Pot-
Fig. 154.
— Pattern
for bide Pieces.
cover Rack.
shown, and cut the two connecting cross-pieces 8 inches lonor
to
notches.
fit
in
these
Nail or screw
the
cross-pieces
place,
and bore a couple
of
holes
in
through the
upper one so the rack Fig. 155.
— Pantry
may
be hung up on
Shelf Bottle-rack.
nails in the pantry.
The Bottle-rack shown in Fig. 155 is a contrivance which your mother will appreciate, as it will hold all
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
142
of her bottles of
olive
extracts, catsup,
Worcestershire sauce,
and prevent one bottle from knocking over
oil, etc.,
when lifted out from behind them. The rack is made out of a piece of board measuring
several others
9 inches wide and 15 inches long, and the holes for the
and cut as shown
bottles are laid out
cutting the board and planing off
it
After
in Fig. 156.
up smooth and
true, lay
along the edges the measurements given for the cen-
and square
ters of the holes
The
these points.
2^ inches
board at
centers will be at the intersections
For the two rows
of the lines. circles
lines across the
in
of large
holes describe
diameter, and for the row of slots describe a circle
i
inch
]^2i'-
in
diameter each side of
the vertical center-lines,
with a center J inch away from the lines, as
shown. Cutting Large Holes.
Unless you have an ex-
— Plan of Bottle-rack.
Fig. 156.
(Showing the four steps your largest auger-bit
in cutting holes larger
will bore,
and in
pansive-bit than
page
you
will
156),
to
the
In the
first
can
proper
have to bore a number of small holes
side of the large circles
a chisel.
which
21),
24,
cutting slots.)
be set radius,
(Fig.
and then
row
in-
finish the cutting with
of holes
on the diagram (Fig.
A shows the first step — describing the circle; B the
second step
— boring a ring of holes inside
of the circle;
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE
C the
— spHtting
third step
holes;
D the fourth
and
wood between
out the
step
the
— trimming up the hole
The diagram
the circle with a chisel.
143
also
to
shows the
^ shows the centers center lines, F the two
four steps required to cut the slots.
marked I
each side of the
off
G how
-inch holes bored at these centers,
tween the holes
trimmed
The
up.
good practice chisel.
out,
is split
and
Z^how
wood
the slot
is
be-
finally
preparation of this board will give you
handling the
in
the
bit
and brace and the
Place the board in the vise for boring the holes,
and bore only
until the
screw point comes through the
opposite side, then turn the board over and bore through the rest of the the
wood around
would do one
way from
if
This
side.
the hole from chipping
is
to prevent
off,
which
it
the holes were bored entirely through from
Be
side.
that
hold the brace exactly
careful to
A
cal while boring.
verti-
|-inch or l-inch chisel should be
used for trimming the holes, and a half-round wood-file
page 25) and sandpaper smoothing them. (Fig.
'TiZ'^
will
be a great help in
Nail a cleat to the under face of each end of the board as
shown
in Fig. 155,
The Flat-iron Rest housekeeper
will
and the rack is
will
be completed.
another convenience which a
be glad to have, as
it
is
much
handier
than an inverted pie-plate or folded newspaper to set an iron upon,
and the
rubbing
on the piece
it
half of the board.
sole of the iron
This
of is
may
be cleaned by
emery-paper fastened
shown
in Fig. 157.
to
one
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
144
Cut the board about 8 by 12 inches In size, tack a piece of tin (a piece from a tomato can will do) over the half
which
is
hold
to
the iron, and a piece of
No. o sandpaper over the other half, and then
tack some narrow wooden strips around the edge of the tin for
— Flat-iron Rest.
Fig. 157.
a
rim
iron
Screw a couple of screw-eyes by which to hang it up.
.
r'ji'
Fig. 159.
into
to
from
one end
prevent the sliding of the
off.
board
— 4i'—
>[
— Pattern
for
Side Pieces
Fig. 158.
— Flat-iron Rack.
The Flat-iron Rack (Fig. 158) is easy to make. Lay out the end pieces to the dimensions given on the pattern (Fig. 159), with the top
and bottom beveled and the
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE back edge notched as shown
then, after cutting these,
;
prepare three back strips 22 inches long and to notches, and nail
them
145
fit
the
Cut the two shelves
in place.
4! inches wide by the proper length to
fit
between the
end pieces, and fasten them to the end pieces and to the back strips so the bottoms
and
strips are
Bore a couple
flush. of
of the shelves
through
holes
upper back
the
and
strips
furnish your customers
two
with
screw-hooks
with which to hang the rack to a wall.
Figure 160 shows a
good scheme
A
for
and
Sleeve-board,
patterns
161
Fig.
making
Prepare the
it.
two pieces
shown
for
A
and
B
Fig. 160.
as
in Fig. 161, bore
— Sleeve-board. Pieces A and B. 161. — Patterns
Fig. 160.
for
Ficj.
the -|-inch holes where indicated,
and cut four dowels
Before connecting
them.
edges with a plane.
by means of in
A
is
Fasten
inches long to
and B, round the
the
put on, but this
is
in
their
through the edges
cloth covering on that
off
fit
dowels in the holes
finishing-nails driven
The same way
and B.
the
board
of
A
5
A
is
pinned on
covering of any ironing-
never provided with sleeve-
146
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
boards, so
you need not furnish
you make
it
with the boards
to sell.
The Knife-box shown
has a bottom piece 8
in Fig. 162
inches wide and 15 inches long, two side pieces 2| inches 8-— ^ wide and 15 inches u
—
END5
J^
two end pieces
long,
the
shape
and
size
Fig.
163,
Fig. 163.
shown
in
and a center partition 3 Fig. 162.
Fig. 162. Fig. 163.
— Knife-box. — Pattern Ends. for
the side pieces
enough
bottom and end
pieces.
partition, to
inches high by the
inside
length
box.
Bevel the top
the
of
and bottom edges
of
make them square with the Cut the slot shown in the center
to
form the handle, by boring a f-inch hole
2
inches each side of the center of the piece and then cutting out the
same way
wood between
as that described on
slots in the Bottle-rack,
between the end
page 142
for cutting the
Before fastening the partition
pieces, tack a piece of
bottom of the inside
A
the holes with a chisel, in the
felt
over the
of the box.
Scrub-pail Platform will be appreciated
by any
woman
who
has experienced the tiresome work of lifting the
pail
every few minutes while scrubbing, to set
it
in a
mounted upon casters so that it may Figure 164 shows easily be pushed along on the floor. the completed platform, and Fig. 165 a view of the under
different spot, as
it is
HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE You
side.
quickly as
will see that this platform
it
147
can be made very
consists of only a board a
trifle
larger each
way than the diameter bottom
the
of
pail,
of
the
with strips nailed
around
its
edges to keep
the pail from
slipping
off
and a caster screwed
to
each
of the four
Fig. 164.
— Scmb-
Fig. 165.
— Bottom
View of Platform.
pail Platform.
corners.
A
handy arrangement for holding a kitchen hand-towel, and one similar to that shown in Fig. 166 and finished to match the woodwork of the Towel-roller
is
a
Fig. 168.
CUT-SLOTS
LIK E
THIS
IN
Fig. 167. End PIECES)
OR USE WINDOW-SHADE SOCKETS LIKtTHESE^
Fig. 166.
— Towel-roller.
— Section showing Slotted End Piece. 168. — Broom-handle Roller showing Pivot in End.
Fig. 167. Fig.
kitchen can be screwed to the face of one of the doors.
Cut the back board 3J inches wide and 24 inches long, bevel its edges, and bore a couple of holes in the positions shown through which to screw it to the door. Cut the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
148
end pieces
2-|
inches square, and round the ends as shown
the ends.
them
back board f inch from Procure a broom-handle and cut a piece from
(Fig. 167), then nail
to the
the lower or straight portion for the roller, and drive a
piece of a 20-penny nail into the exact center of each
end of
to
Cut a
for pivots (Fig. 168).
each end piece down to
its
slot
from the top edge
center for the roller pivots
turn in (Fig. 167), or buy a pair of sockets (Fig.
them
to the
window-shade
and screw
167)
end pieces.
For cutting and chipping an ice-pick and an should
be
kept
ice,
ice-chisel
within
easy
reach of the refrigerator, and
An
Ice-pick
Rack screwed Fig. 169.
— Ice-pick and Ice-chisel ^^^^-
169).
Make
Ice-chisel
to the
side of
the refrigerator will keep these tools within
this
and
easy
reach (Fig,
out of a short block of wood, bore
a hole for the pick,
and cut a groove
enough for the chisel. Household conveniences such
in the
back edge
large
in this chapter
may
be
made
as
have been described
out of pine, cypress, white-
wood, basswood, oak, and ash, and they
may
be painted,
stained, shellacked, or varnished, according to the choice of
finish
make. finish
your mother, neighbors, or other customers
For kitchen, pantry, or laundry use, there better than shellac, or shellac and varnish.
is
no
The
attic of the
average house presents the best pos-
up a boy's room, for generally it a large unfinished space where a boy will have an
sible conditions for fitting is
excellent opportunity to partition off as large a
may
he
require,
and furnish
home-made furniture and Usually an
all
it
to suit his
of his
own
room
as
taste with
knickknack keepsakes.
attic is the storage place for old trunks, anti-
quated furniture, and household truck, and this could very easily
be packed together in such a way that a large
enough space for a room would remain at one end. Figures 1 70 and 1 7 1 show how a room can be made in the attic of a
fers
house having a gable
from another
in plan
just as the
house
and design, the suggestions
fied to suit the
but as one
roof,
conditions of your
differs will
from another
have
attic.
attic dif-
to
be modi-
Take
a run up
to the top of
your house, boys, and look things over
you can
better just
A
tell
what you can
Dividing Partition to separate the
of the attic should
be
built, first,
then
do.
room from
the rest
and Fig. 172 shows the
proper method of erecting the studs. 149
;
If
the attic walls
ISO
151
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
152
are unfinished and of frame construction, as Fig. 170,
it
will
shown
in
look best to space the partition studs
directly opposite the wall studs
and
nail the
boarding
on the outside face (Fig. 171); but they may be spaced 3 feet apart, to save lumber, and yet be close enough to support the boards.
Fig. 172.
— Studding Dividing Partition. — Toe-nail the End of Studs Way. — Entrance Door. of Outside of View 174. 175. — Plan showing Construction of Door Opening.
Fig. 172.
for
Fig. 173. Fig. Fig. If
you run the
roof rafters, locate
in this
tlie
same direction as the so the upper end of the studs may
partition in the it
be spiked to the rafters (Fig. 172)
;
if
the other way, nail
A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC
153
a strip across the bottoms of the rafters to spike your
studs
The
to.
illustrations
show
in the direction of the rafters, so
erect
in this way.
it
To
the partition running
you how to
shall tell
I
get the bottom of the studs in
a line, run
A
Plumb-line from a nail driven into the face of one
of the
two
rafters,
i
inch or so above the
rafter, as in Fig. 172.
driven into the face of the opposite
Any
strong cord
may be used
should also h^ plumbed
\v^
The
for this line.
and down,
This consists
Plumb-board.
studs
as the rafters
board
of a 4-inch
may
make
not run exactly straight, and for this purpose
A
a nail
floor, to
5 or
6
long whose edges have been planed up straight and
feet true,
with a
"V"
notch cut in the center
of
one end and
a cord with a weight attached tied to a nail driven into
By placing
the center of the opposite end.
against the side of a stud, you can is
plumb by
tell
when
(This home-made plumb-board
is
of " If
The Boy
toe-nail
the
the stud
illustrated
hang is
it
ex-
plumb.
on page 13
Craftsman.")
you locate the door
first set
whether or not
the position of the cord, which will
actly in the center of the notch
board
this
\.\\o
them
jamb
in the center of the partition,
studs 3 feet apart (Fig. 172) and
to the floor
and
to the rafters (Fig.
173),
then spike a cross-piece between these studs, 6 feet 9 inches above the floor, to form the head of the door, and fasten another horizontal piece about 20 inches above for the
head
of the
transom.
it
Next, spike the end studs
154
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
in position,
and
shown
on the temporary diagonal braces
nail
in the illustration to
keep the studding plumb
the boarding has been nailed on.
until
Space the intermediate
studs at the proper distances apart, and, as soon as each piece
made plumb, tack
is
the brace to
it
to hold
it
in
position until you spike the ends in place. It is
new lumber
not necessary to have
Boards and studs can usually be bought very
tion.
cheaply wherever a frame building this
for this parti-
second-hand
stuff
is
and box boards
any roughness can be concealed.
being wrecked, and will
Studs
do very
may
well, for
be spliced
with fish-plates when too short (see Fished-splice, on
page
58).
If the
Roof runs down to the Floor along the sides of
the room, a partition should be built along each side at a
point where the roof
is
above the
3 feet
behind these partitions
may
floor,
so the space
be utilized for
room which cannot very These partitions are made as
Lockers, an addition to a boy's well be dispensed with.
shown
in Figs. 176
tween the
floor
and
i-by-2-inch strip
is
and
177.
rafters at
Short studs are
fitted be-
about every other
rafter, a
nailed across the studding near the
top and another near the bottom, the studs being notched so the strips will set flush with their face, as
shown
in
Fig. 177, and then burlap, denim, or dark-colored muslin is
tacked to these
strips.
The
strips
and covering should
be carried around the other two walls of the room, to
form a similar
also,
A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC Wainscoting. nail a 6-inch
When
155
the cloth has been
tacked on,
board around the bottom and another board
same width around the top, and cut a board to fit between the rafters to form a shelf or cap over the wain-
of the
scoting (Fig. 177).
Fig. 176.
— How the Wainscoting put up. — Cross-section of Completed Wainscoting. 177.
Fig. 176. Fig.
A the
is
Large Clothes Closet should be built in one corner of
room
as
shown
in Figs. 171
and
178,
and the inside
should be fitted up with shelves, hooks, and coat and trousers hangers.
pole
may be
A
piece of broom-handle or curtain-
fastened across the rafters upon which to
hook coat hangers, hooks may be made out of spools (Fig. 179), and the Trousers Hangers (Fig. 180) consist of two pieces of wood about 8 inches long, with one face of each beveled
(A and B,
Fig. 180),
and a wooden button
(C, Fig. 180).
156
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
Screw block
B to
parallel to
so the bevels will be about \ inch apart, and
it
the under side of a shelf, place block
A
screw one end to the shelf;
ton
then screw but-
C in
position
the proper
so
when
the ends of a pair of trousers are
placed
between the beveled sides
of
can
it
A
and B,
be
turned
against strip ^4 as a
lock to hold the two Fig. 178.
Fig. 178.
show
— Clothes
Closet, with
strips together. Wall broken
Inside.
— Spool Hooks. 180. — Details of Trousers Hangers.
Fig. 179. Fig.
shown
in Figs. 171
and
178.
to
The Doors should be made of boards battened together as
To make
a nicely finished
entrance to the room, conceal the studding around the
doorway with jamd and /lead boards, and nail a board ^rim around the opening as shown in Figs. 171 and 1 74. In the plan of the doorjamb (Fig. 1 75), the stud on one side of the opening is shown at A, the finished y^;;2<5 board at B, and the inside and outside casings or trim at C\ the door
shown hinged is
in place at
D, and the stop
strip
shown
at
is
E
nailed around the inside of the opening for the door to
strike against.
Hinge the entrance door and the locker
doors on to the casings with sfrap-hinges (Fig. 171).
A BOY'S
ROOM
The Entrance-door Transom together (Fig. 171) and It
is
AN ATTIC
IN
made
is
hinged
of
boards battened
at the top to the trim.
operated by means of a cord which
is
157
run from a
is
screw-eye in the bottom of the transom up over a small pulley in the ceiling,
and from that down
to a nail in the wall.
Figure 181 shows the details for
An
Old-fashioned Cabin Latch which will
By looking
for the doors.
A
the latch
screwed
at
(Fig.
place over
C is
calck
you
will see that
is
one end to the
door, \ht guard in
181)
at Fig. 171,
do very well
set
B
is
screwed
A, and the into the jamb
The entrance door
board.
should have a latch-string with which to open
it
Fig. 181
from
.
— Details of Door Latch,
Guard, Catch, and Button.
the outside (Figs. 174 and
181) and also a to lock of the
it
wooden
on the
inside.
door similar
Few
btitton {D, Fig. 181) with
to
unfinished
Make
guard
attics
B
are
which
a handle for the outside
(Figs. 174
and
181).
provided with heat, but
probably you can obtain
For a coal stove you will have to run a pipe through the partition and over to the chimney, and if there is no opening into the
An
Oil
chimney
Heater or Stove for your room.
flue, it will
be necessary to get a mason to cut
one and set a thimble into pipe
;
but the latter work
it
to receive the
will not cost
much.
end
of the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
158 If
A
there isn't any running water in the
Wash-stand
in
hold a wash-bowl and pitcher.
A
shown
a corner, as
attic,
in
make
Fig. 171, to
Fasten
Broom- handle Towel-rack above the wash-stand
to
the rafters, as shown.
Get a
common
barn lantern for
Lighting your Room,
been installed
70.
and construct
in the attic,
A Home-made 1
neither gas or electricity has
if
Hanging Lamp out
of
it
as
shown
in Fig.
Besides the lantern, you will need a harness snap^
Barn lantern
Fig. 182.
harness Snap
Screw-Pulley
— These things are required
6rick Counterbalance
for the
Home-made Hanging Lamp.
some clothes-line and Screw the pulley into
a screw-pulley^ a f-inch screw-eye^ cord,
and a brick (Fig.
182).
the ceiling in about the center of the room, then run the of
a rafter
;
over the pulley and
down
the
face
screw the screw-eye into the rafter
just
clothes-line
above the wainscot cap (Figs. 176 and 177), slip the clothes-line through this eye and then run it through a hole bored through the wainscot cap, just below, and tie
the brick to the end with cord for a counterbalance
(Fig. 177); fasten the harness snap to the other
the clothes-line and adjust
it
end
of
so that the lantern, whose
A BOY'S ROOiM IN AN ATTIC handle
is
snapped into
enough
to
down
to within easy
must be
of the brick
counterbalance the lantern
if
;
too heavy,
Figure 170 shows the lamp pushed
break off a piece.
up out
will pull
The weight
reach of the floor. just
it,
159
of the way.
Every one
of
you
have to suit your
will
Furnishing the Room, so the
own
taste in
serve
illustrations will
merely as suggestions for the arrangement
of pictures,
posters, pennants, fencing foils, tennis rackets,
and other
things.
Home-made Picture-frames can be made out very easily
of miteriiicr
planing
of
bictt
;
the ends of the laths together instead
them and
it
off
of laths
st?in the
wood
in the roiio^k instead
smooth.
The Furniture may be very simple,
like the
box
shown in the following chapter, or some designs shown in Chapter VI may be carried out wish to spend more time and labor upon it. ture
You
will
furniof
the
if
you
probably wish to make
A Pirate Chest such as is shown in Fig. 17 and A Window Seat as shown in Fig. 170. Ask r
mother
to
make
your
a few sofa pillows for the seat.
you Boys will not have an Attic in which to make a room, but those of you who have not will probably find ideas among these suggestions that can be adapted to
Some
of
your present room, whatever part of the house that in.
If
you already have an
some ways
in
which
to
attic
room, you
improve upon
its
may be
will likely see
furnishings.
mr^Ti;
CHAPTER
IX
BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE
Grocery
boxes, packing-cases, crates, barrels, kegs,
and much
of the " truck " to be
ment, and
wood shed suggest innumerable
for
making
things,
be utilized for
makes them Furniture
and the
found
in the attic, basepossibilities
fact that these materials
many purposes
with
can
or no expense
little
especially well suited to boys' work.
made from
the above materials
is
naturally
somewhat rough, compared with what can be produced with better wood, and some of it will appear clumsy, but no boy will object to this "home-made" appearance on furniture for his in fact,
he
The
if it
will serve his
will generally prefer
order that his
rooms
own room,
room may be
"
something
different "
purpose
—
like this in
from the other
of the house.
following pages
show
a
niture which are easy to make,
number
of pieces of fur-
and other ideas
will prob-
ably suggest themselves while you are working upon these.
The Writing-desk shown
in
Fig. 183
is
fitted
around
the wall studding, which would be exposed in your i6o
room
BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE if It
it
were
may
also
ing
it
In the unfinished attic of a
i6i
frame house
but
;
be fastened upon a plastered wall by support-
upon brackets nailed
to the wall, or
by hanging
it
with chains from hooks screwed into the wall.
Procure a box about 30 inches long, 14 inches wide,
and 16 inches deep
body
for the
The
of the desk.
top Fig.
y/////////i
185.
Fig. 187. L
.
J
Fig. 184.
Fig. 183. Fig.
183.— The
Writing-desk.
— Section through Writing-desk. Fig. 185. — A Desk or Cupboard Mortise-lock and Escutcheon Key-hole. Figs. 186-187. — How to set the Lock into the Drop-leaf of the Desk. Fig. 188. — Cigar Box Desk Drawers.
Fig. 184.
for
for
of
this will
bottom
will
around the
form the front
of
the desk, and then the
be the back, but in case* the desk studs, the
is
fitted
bottom boards should be removed,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
i62
as a
back
will
Figure 184 shows a good
be unnecessary.
shape for bracket supports for the desk
after nailing
;
these in place at the proper height, fasten the box to
Make
their tops.
out of
I
the drop-leaf for the front of the desk
-inch boards
strips (yA, Fig. 183).
and batten them together with four Cut the two end battens a little
shorter than the width of the
leaf,
but
make
the two
center ones long enough to project about 10 inches, as in Fig. 184, so they will strike the
prevent the
leaf
bottom
of the
box and
from dropping further when opened to
shown by the dotted lines. Hinge the leaf in place as shown in Fig. 183. If you want a lock for the desk, go to a hardware store and buy a desk or the position
cupboard mortise-lock (Fig. 185); Cut a mortise in the edge of the
this will cost 15 cents. leaf of the
to receive the lock (Fig. 186), locate
and then screw the lock
in place
(Fig. 185) over the keyhole.
proper size
and cut the
keyhole,
and fasten the escutcheon
A
slot
must be cut
in the
lower face of the desk top for a pocket for the lock bolt to turn into, and in order to
make
it
possible to cut this
pocket, the front board of the top must be removed and
a board about will
make
i
inch wider nailed on in
its
place; this
a projection over the drop-leaf as
shown
in
Fig. 187.
Very thin wood should be used with which to partition off i\\Q pige 071- holes, and pieces of cigar boxes will do
Make the drawer openings of the boxes may be used for drawers (Figs.
nicely.
right size so
cigar
183, 184,
and
BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE and drive brass rug tacks into the ends
188),
for
163
of the
boxes
knobs.
To
give the drop-leaf a better writing surface, pad
it
with a few sheets of newspaper and then cover the paper with a piece of white oil-cloth. foot-rest
A
may
is
chair,
may
be bracketed to the wall 10 or
above the desk as shown
12 inches
how a
be fastened to the wall, below the desk.
Shelf for Books
It
Figure 183 shows
generally
an
and you ought
matter
easy to
in Fig. 183.
second-hand
the
more
store, as
find
a
broken
be able to get a discarded
piano-stool in your storeroom, from at a
to
some neighbor,
or
they are being replaced by
modern
piano bench, and having procured
two
articles,
these
you can
make An Of&ce Chair such as is shown in Fig. Remove the 189. chair legs, then set
the
seat
upon the
and
back
stool (Fig.
Fig. 189.
— The
Office Chair.
190)
and screw
it
to
the top; countersink the screw-heads, in
over
the
fill
heads
with putty, refinish
^^^^
T' ~ ?" upon
are fastened
office Chair.
'^''
^'p''
'/'
"'"^/wto form^t^' the a Piano-stool
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
164
the chair to match the stool, and the office chair will
be completed.
keg for A Waste-basket, wash it out thoroughly, and paint it inside and outside. One of these kegs which has been used by the author for this purpose for a number of years Procure a
is
shown
fish
in the
photograph opposite page
The Arm Rocker shown
The
seat
is
made
in Fig. 191 is
86.
easy to construct.
out of a box with the cover boards nailed on, and the back
and arm
strips are cut out of pieces of
or other boards.
If
boxes
you can
find
a pair of rockers from a broken chair, use
that
them and you
much ahead
laying a chair on
marking
not,
make
simple matter to
board,
if
;
its
be
will it
is
a
a pair by
side
upon a
out around
the
moving the chair over far enough to mark out the second rocker, and sawing out the pieces and smoothing them up. rocker, then
FlG. 191.
— The Arm
Rocker.
Figure 192 shows to the
bottom
how
the braces
of the box,
should be cut to
fit
A
should be nailed
and Fig. 193 how
over the rockers.
their ends
By looking
at
any
rocking-chair you will see that the rear ends of the rockers are set several inches closer together
ends
;
than the front
provide for this in preparing strips A, and be care-
BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE both rockers the same distance
ful to set
will
Screw the rockers
rock evenly.
i^S
In,
so the chair
to
strips
A
as
shown.
The
lengths of the strips for the back and arms will be
determined by the size of the box used for the
seat,
.n n n^n C
I
but in
fl.
-
.
D D D
Fig. 192.
Fig. 194.
Fig. 193.
Fig. 192.
— Chair overturned
to
show how the Rockers
are Attached.
— Brace for the Rockers. How the Back Constructed. — 194. — Pattern for the Wide Arm. 195.
Fig. 193. Fig.
Fig.
is
order that you
may have an
tions, sizes will
be given for a box 18 inches by 16 inches
by 12 inches. piece as
shown
long, strips strips
D
has been strips
£
The back should be in Fig. 194,
Strips
Fig. 192.
I
-I
C
B are
2|-
and nailed
to the
box as
2 feet
in
9 inches
2^ inches wide by 21 inches long, and
made and
strips J^ to the
constructed in one
inches wide by
inches wide by
(Fig.
idea of the proper propor-
192)
2 feet long.
After the back
fastened to the box, cut the two side i|-
inches wide by 20 inches long,
same width by 10 inches
long,
and
strips
1
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
66
G
to the
strips to
same width by i6 inches long. Fasten these the box and to each other as shown in Figs. 191 and 192, then cut the right arm
H
(Figs.
192 and
195) 18 inches long
by
inches wide
3
narrow end
at the
and
inches
8
at
the wide end, and
cut the the 3 \\Q Fig. Fig.
After
arms
Fig. 198.
— Cross-pieces
in
is
of
the
in place, brace
arm with
Made.
Open End of Barrel
which the Top
nailins: ^
the right is
arm
same length by inches wide.
196.
Fig. 197. 196. — The Barrel Table. 197. — How the Table Top
left
the small triangular
\£>
Built.
/
block
(Fig. 192).
When
you have completed your chair, give the measurements of the seat to your mother or sister, and ask her to
make
a cushion for
it.
Procure an apple or potato barrel for the base of
The Barrel Table
illustrated in Fig.
1
96.
The
(Fig. 197) should be about 30 inches square
three pieces of boards 10 inches wide. to the proper length side.
table top
and made
of
Cut the boards
and lay them upon the
floor side
by
Place the barrel bottom end up upon the exact
center of the square formed by the boards, then cut the
BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE cross battens
B
of the right length
and
and the
shown
at
A
in Fig. 198,
By covering
Turn the
barrel.
two pieces
again, nail
fit
to
and cut
between the
barrel right side
of 2-by-4 in the
and
fit
to the
the strips
close to the sides of the barrel,
the triangular corner blocks strips
them
nail
boards close against the side of the barrel,
C between them
167
up
open end as shown
nail the top to these cross-pieces.
the top with a piece of heavy wrapping-
paper and then tacking a piece of oilcloth
table
over the top and
edges, you will have a smoother
any
table;
unevenness
may
be
padded out with paper before the oilcloth
is
put on.
Three boxes size,
of exactly the
same
about 3 feet long, 12 inches
and 12 inches deep, are
wide,
re-
quired for
The Chiffonier shown
in Fig. 199.
A dealer in
shoes or dry goods will
most
have boxes
likely
of
uniform Fig. 199.
size.
— The Chiffonier.
Set the boxes on top of one another as in Fig. 200, and then fasten them together at the four corners with strips 6 inches longer than the
combined height
Nail together the edges of the strips, to the
boxes as shown
of the strips will
in Fig. 199.
first,
The
of the boxes.
then nail them projecting ends
be the legs, so they must be of exactly
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
i68
the
same length
the floor.
or the chiffonier will not rest evenly
Fit horizontal strips to the front
upon
and ends
of
the boxes, between the leg strips, to conceal the joints
between the boxes (Fig. 199); cut these to the exact Figure 201 is a view of part width of the front edges. of the
bottom
of the chiffonier
and shows the leg
strips
and how the lower portion of the chiffonier is finished off, by nailing a strip shaped similar to that
in place
shown
in Fig.
202 across the front and a straight strip
across the ends (see Fig. 199).
Cut boards projection of
of the proper length to i
make
a top with a
inch over each end, and nail them to the
Fig. 200.
Fig. 201 Fig. 202.
— Three Boxes of exactly the Same 201. — View of Bottom of Chiffonier.
Fig. 200.
Size are required for the Chif-
fonier.
Fig.
Fig. 202.
a Strip like this to the Front at the Bottom.
— Cut Spools in Halves for Knobs. — Prepare two Pieces like this for the Mirror- frame Supports. 205. — Fasten a Strip like this in Front of the Mirror-frame Supports.
Fig. 203. Fig. 204. Fig.
—Fit
BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE top box so there will be the
The drawers may be made
of the box.
down
to the proper size, or
with doing in the
(Fig.
same projection
this,
if
01
you do not
cr the front
.
1
l.cL
you may hinge drop-leaves
same way that the writing-desk drv^ 183). Cut spools in halves for knobs
169
^t
boxes cut
e
to bother
to the boxes
vleaf
put on
is
(rig. 203),
and
screw two of the halves to the face of each drawer or drop-
shown
leaf as
A mirror can
be
in Fig. 199.
10 by 12 inches in size, set in a
purchased for 50 or 60 cents.
wooden frame,
To
fasten the
frame to the chiffonier, cut two uprights 16 inches long,
shown
Fig 204, bore a \inch hole near the upper end as shown, and drive a nail taper one edge of each as
in
through each hole into the exact center of the
mirror frame (Fig. 204).
of
each side edge
Nail or screw the lower
ends of the uprights to the back of the top box so the mirror will be exactly in the center of the chiffonier top
and about
3 inches
that in Fig. 205,
above
Shape
it.
and fasten
it
a piece similar to
below the mirror
to the
mirror-frame supports as shown in Fig. 199, and your chiffonier will be ready iox finishing.
After making your box furniture either stain oil
stain or give
it
two coats
of paint.
it
with an
It
not necessary to go to the basement or attic
is
to
up a home gymnasium, boys, unless you wish to make large pieces of apparatus, for you can easily equip your fit
own room with dumb-bells,
A call
J
chest-weight, chinning-bar^ hitch-and-kick,
and Indian
Chest-weight, or it,
^
is
STUD
shown
"
clubs.
some boys and Figs. 207, 208, and 209 give the details for making
exercising machine," as
in Fig. 206,
it.
Select a portion of a
HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS which the laths are
nailed.
For cross-piece
A
171
(Figs. 207
and 208) cut a i-inch piece of oak, pine, or white wood, 4 inches wide and 20 inches long, plane it up and bevel its
Two-pulley Scheme. Fig. 208.
— Two
Schemes
for
One-pulley Scheme.
FiG. 208.
Assemblmg
the Weights, Rope,
and Pulleys
of
Chest-weight. Fig. 209.
— Prepare
a Pair of Bicycle Handle-bar Grips like this for Handles.
four face edges.
Locate holes
a, b,
c,
and
d,
2
inches
from the ends, and bore them \ inch deep with a |-inch bit. Spike the board to the wall about on a line with your shoulders, using 20-penny nails and driving them through holes
a,
b,
c,
and d into the studs.
the heads below the surface of the
wood with
Drive
a nail-set,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
172
and
fill
d
holes b and
with chips of
wood
cut to
the spike heads (holes a and
c will
B as
Cut cross-piece
is
shown
in Fig. 208).
long by \\ inches wide, bevel
A
board
its
over
fit
be concealed by strip i5 19 inches
edges, and screw
it
to
with round-head finishing-screws (Fig. 208).
Procure two bricks of uniform size for weights, make
wooden bracket for each as shown in Fig. 208, and strap them to these brackets with a couple of skate, trunk, a
or shawl straps.
brackets at /, I
Drive staples into the backs of the
k,
and
/,
m
(Fig. 208),
placing/ and k
inch to each side of the center and / and
m
directly
under them. Purchase two enameled-iron awning pulleys at a hard-
ware
about 25 feet of sash-cord, or closely
store, also get
woven
clothes-line,
for
lifting-lines
Fasten the pulleys to cross-piece
from the ends. e
and
f in
The
board
These screws
A
and guide-ropes.
B with staples,
guide-ropes are fastened to screws
and
to
g
and h
should be placed
2
in the baseboard.
inches apart, and
should center on the pulleys on strip B. ing the ropes, slip
their
and m, and
h.
lifting
in
\\ inches
them
In attach
^
and f^ then lower ends through staples / and /, and k the weight brackets, and tie them to screws g
You
first
fasten
to screws e
can make either a one-pulley scheme
for
your weights as shown on the right of Fig. 208, cr
scheme as show^n on the left of the illustration. The latter way has the advantage of a longer rope, but costs a little more on account of the extra rope and
a two-pulley
HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS In the
pulleys.
first
method the rope
is
173
attached to the
bracket strap, then run through the pulley and tied to the handle, while in the latter
it
tied to screw i on
is
board A, run through a pulley, slipped over the bracket
and then slipped through the upper pulley and
strap,
tied
to the handle.
The handles which,
if
are
made from
you haven't an old
bicycle handle-bar grips^
pair,
may be purchased
Glue a wooden plug
10 or 15 cents.
for
open end
in the
of
the grip (Fig. 209), then bore a hole through the center of
it
tin
and punch another hole through the center
cap on the other end of the grip.
Run an
piece of heavy wire through the holes and the shape
which
shown
in the illustrations, with a
18-inch
bend
it
into
hook through
Leave the bricks
to tie the lifting rope.
of the
in their
them with oil paint, and either stain varnish the woodwork if it is of oak, or paint, stain,
natural color, or stain or
or shellac
A
it if it is
of pine or
whitewood.
Striking-bag with an elastic cord at each end can
doorway by screwing a screw-eye in the head and another in the threshold, to which to tie the cords. The upper screw-eye maybe left in place and But the lower one removed when you detach the bag. easily be fastened in a
for a
bag with a single cord
form for
A
it
to strike against.
it is
necessary to have a plat-
You
can put up
Striking-bag Platform in your
detachable, as
shown
moved and put out
in
of the
room by making
Fig. 210, so that
way when not
it
may
in use.
be
it
re-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
174
Make
the platform 3 feet square, battening together
A, B, and
the boards with strips
D
screw hooks
E
and
of this platform
side
face smooth,
first
over the boards
To
if
with
F
(Fig.
oilcloth
(Fig.
211),
and
Cover the under
into strip B. to
make
the
sur-
tacking several thicknesses of paper
there happens to be any uneven places.
the inside of your
2-by-4
C
212),
2
room door screw
the piece of
inches above your
head,
then
Fig. 214.
Fig. 213.
Fig. 211.
— How to make the Striking-bag Platform. — 212. Fig. Attachment of Strips form Groove Platform; also buckles. Fig. 213. — Block out the Strips thus the Door has Raised Panels. Fig. 214. — Details of the Swivel which holds the Bag Cord. Fig. 211.
to
for
Turn-
if
leave a space wide fit in,
and screw
enough
strip
G
for
end
A
of the platform to
to the door.
If
raised panels (Fig. 210), block out strips
shown at a
in Fig. 2
hardware
1
3.
store,
the door has
F
and
G
as
Purchase two buck-saw tur^ibuckles
and fasten one end
of each to the
/(Fig. 212) put them just high enough so the lower ends will catch in hooks and (Fig. 211) when the platform is slipped between door trim with
D
E
staples, at Z^'^and
;
HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS
F
175
The platform is made solid by turning the The swivel shown in Fig. 214 costs about turnbuckles. The plate / is fastened to the under side of 50 cents. and G.
the platform with screws, the
A" and knotted, and
A
Chinning-bar
(Fig. 215).
A
K
is
bag cord
slipped through
screwed on toy.
very easily put up in a doorway
is
piece of a curtain-pole will do for the bar,
and the socket-blocks
for
it
to set
should be made as shown
in
is
in
Cut the blocks 4 inches square and make the holes a little Fig. 216.
larger than the ends of the curtain-
how
Figure 217 shows
pole.
cut the holes by of little holes
first
boring a ring
and then cutting out
the center and trimming
up with
^
a chisel.
B like out
Make
fic. 216.
Fig. 216. -Socket-blocks for the Chinning-bar.
,
the hole in block
fig. 217.
A, then saw a piece Screw the blocks the top.
that in
of
about
to
to
cut
a
Large Hole,
to the
door jambs
below the door head.
3 inches
The Hitch-and-Kick (Fig. 218) that will give
— How
you a chance
by practicing the high
is
a piece of apparatus
to limber
kick.
The
up your leg muscles plate (Fig. 219)
may
be an o\^pot cover or a cake-tin, with three holes punched
A, B, and C. them at D, and
at
Attach brass chains at this point
of chain 12 or 14 feet long.
at these holes, join
connect the end of a piece
Fasten a small screw-pulley
or a screw-eye in the ceiling (Fig. 218), slip the chain
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
176
through
and bring
it,
the
end down through a screweye and then to a hook which has been screwed door or window
into the
You may have
trim.
long feet to
graduated into
stick,
and inches, with which
measure the heights
your kicks
or
;
piece
short
a
a
through one
you may
of tie
thread
of
of the
Hnks
of
the chain, within a foot or loose end, and
of the
so
then lay off some measure-
ments upon the door or
window /r2;;^, in lead-pencil, in such a way that you can easily
determine the height
218.— The Hitch-and-Kick will give you a Good Chance to Limber
O* the plate
up your Leg Muscles.
sition of the
Fig.
With
the
addition
of
.
a
,
,
pair
.
,
,
by notmg the pothreaded
link.
of
dumb-bells^ a pair of Indian clubs, and
a
wand made by
splicing together two
broom-handles, as shown at A, B, and (Fig.
220),
equipped
"
you
will
have a
gym," without
floor space of
C
fairly well- Fig.
sacrificing
any
your room for apparatus.
219
— How
to
."^t^ick Pla"e'ou; ofan Old Pot Cover.
HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS
177
A V^^^^^-^^^
B d: ygsm
Fig. 220.
— A Wand made of Two Broom-handles spliced together End
A Rack may as
like
A
is
the
board
A
of
Board
End.
your Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and
for
made
be
to
the
same
one
illustrated
by
Wand
Fig.
221.
size
the Chest-
weight (Fig. 207) and
is
spiked to the studs in the
same way, while board is
2
Make
2\ inches wide. places for the
and in
wand
and
shorter
inches
bells,
B the
chibs,
shown cutting them
to set in as
Fig. 222,
as described for the
Chin-
B
(Fig.
ning-bar
Screw
216). strip
socket
B,
strip
A
to
Fig. 221.
Fig. 222.
Plan showing
how
to
cut
the Sockets.
Rack
for
Dumb-bells,
Indian Clubs, and
Wand.
Make craft will sisters,
your Christmas
gifts,
boys
your own handi-
;
be better appreciated by your brothers and
the older folks, and the friends and relatives you
wish to remember than anything you can buy, and as the materials
may
be such as
you can save the greater part Christmas shopping.
spend
in
work
to friends
it
will cost little or nothing,
of the
money you
Besides, by
usually
showing your
should be easy to secure orders for
duplicate articles.
many
Probably no material presents as
possibilities
making inexpensive and at the same time attractive You articles as the white cedar wood from cigar boxes. boys very likely know what handy receptacles these
for
boxes are for stamps, coins, marbles, and the hundred
and one other things which your pockets
will not hold,
but here are some ideas for making use of the boxes
which you probably never thought The Material glue, at
and
will cost
finish,
—
any cigar store
of.
you nothing,
— except the
nails,
empty cigar boxes may be procured Pick out a good assortor drug store. as
178
Fig. 334. Fig. 333.
An Express-Wagon.
Fig. 334.
A
Cakt.
CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS ment
of
shapes and
sizes,
place the boxes in a tub or
wash-boiler of hot water and allow the paper labels
179
them
to soak until
and bindings loosen, then, when
paper has been removed, bind the covers
flat
this
against the
bottoms with cord to prevent them from warping, and
When
put them in the sun or near a stove to dry.
the
boxes are thoroughly dry, pry them apart, sort out the
and remove the manufacturers' trade-marks with sandpaper (grade No. o). best pieces
Brads f inch or J inch long should be used for nailing, and the heads should be set below the surface of the
wood and
the holes
filled
with putty colored to match
the wood.
work with two coats The oil gives the wood a beautiful out the markings of the grain. Finish the
A
of boiled linseed-oil.
rich tone
and brings
scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp
jack-knife should be used where
Cutting
is
Do
necessary.
wood, as the grain
is
not attempt to
seldom straight, but lay
split
the
down way in
it
upon a board and score it with a knife in the which you would score a piece of cardboard then break ;
it
along the scored
piece
is
cut in two.
line, If
or continue cutting until the
you use a saw, cut a
little
away
from the outlines of the work and then trim up with a knife
and sandpaper.
The wagons, in this
Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture
shown
chapter were designed with the idea of saving as
J
I
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
i8o
much
cutting as possible, and you will see by the
trations that in
many
cases the boxes are not altered.
The Express-wagon shown a Ions
box.
flat
in
Fig. 223
Cut down the sides
Cut the front wheels about
2J
is
made
out or
at the front
construct a seat on top of the sides as 227.
illus^
shown
and
in Fig.
inches in diameter
and the rear wheels about 2| inches in diameter. If you haven't a compass with which to describe the circles, you can mark out the wheels Seat
:^
W-
V////y>/A'//A^y /yyy/yy , v. ^^,\>/////^/^/^^/A>
with cups or glass
tumblers.
Cut the wooden axles
as
in Fig. 227,
i
FRONT Axle
axle
Rear Axue
I
— Cross section of the
front of the
making the
than
the rear one,
wagon-box and
the wheels to
nail
ends. tie
have a small toy horse to hitch
The Cart with
its
Make
in Fig.
their
Drive a tack into the a cord to
the
to
it,
or
if
you
wagon, fasten
a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as
upon the two-wheeled
front
then fasten them to the wagon
and
Express-wagon.
shown
for the smaller wheels
— deeper
CENTER-UNE—
Fig. 227
—
\
is
%
shown
cart.
224
is
made out
of a square flat
wheels fastened to the center of the under
box I side.
the wheels about 2^ inches in diameter.
The Auto Delivery- wagon (Figs. 225 and 226) requires two boxes about 8^ inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2^ I inches deep. that one box
You is
will see
inverted
by looking
upon the
at the illustrations
other.
Before fasten- i
Figs. 225
and
226.
Two Views
of an
"Auto Delivery- Wagon."
I
CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS
i«i
remove the two ends of the upper box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the front end for the dashboard), and cut 2 inches off the sides at
them
ing
together,
the front and an additional piece
from the sides
end
by nailing
of the
wagon and hinge
wagon-bed with cloth
Tack
a cloth strap.
it
may
Make
two
the dashboard.
wagon
A
to the curtain, so
as
roll,
shown
in the
the wheels and axles like those of
Cut out a small
axles, of equal size.
ing-wheel and fasten
the
a curtain of black cloth to the top
wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels,
the express
to the seat,
ends of
Support the end-gate with
strips.
be fastened up in a
photograph.
also the
the
to
a drop end-gate to the
and sew two cloth straps
cross strip that
strips
Fasten
Nail a narrow strip across the top of the
side pieces.
rear
inch by if inches
upper box for windows.
of the
together
the boxes
i
it
Make
steer-
on a short wooden rod inside a seat
and seat back,
nail the
back
and then fasten the seat between the sides just
of
of
below the windows.
Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 228)
than you might imagine.
is
a simpler toy to
make
The box should measure about
inches by 5f inches by 5 inches. Hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth glue one piece to 5|-
;
the inside of the cover and box, side.
and the other
to the out-
Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover,
and below
it
fasten a small
may be bent from
hook onto the box
;
the
hook
a short piece of wire.
A spiral spring from
an old bed-spring
will
do
for Jack's
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
l82
body, but
matter to
you cannot get one
if
make
Take
a spring.
of these,
a piece of No.
wire about 10 feet in length and wind ing-pin or anything that
is
cylindrical
it
a simple
is
it
1
2
gauge
around a
roll-
and about 2^ inches
Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed
in diameter.
tacks upon a piece of
wood cut
to
fit
the inside of the
box (Fig. 229), then procure a small doll's head, baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and to this
Make
sew the head.
on Jack's head, covering loose jacket to
fit
a cloth fool's cap to glue
his hair entirely,
and also a
over his spiral body; for these use any
bright-colored cotton cloth that will
Tack
fall
into folds easily.
the base of the
spring
to
the bottom of the box.
Make
the seat for
The Round-seated Chair shown
in
Fig. 230 2 inches in diameter, the
back
5
inches high, 2 inches wide
at the top,
the seat
high by Fig. 236.
Leg
of Din-
ing-table.
;
and 1^ inches wide
cut the front leg ij-
Pedestal of Center-table.
inches wide.
four strips as shown in Fig. 235.
Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter, may be used with which to mark this out. flat
inches
The Round Center-table (Fig. 231) should have a base built up of
Fig. 235.
Select a long
2 J-
at
box
A
saucer
for
The Dining-table shown
in Fig. 232,
and
after
making
Fig. 234.
A
Doll's Cradl
A KoundSeated Chaik.
Fig. 230.
Fig. 231. Fig. 228.
A
Jack-in-the-Box.
A Round
Center-Table.
—
Fig. 232.
Fig. 229.
—A
The Skeleton of
THE JaCK-IN-THE-BoX.
Dining-Table
Fig. 233.
—A Square-Seated
Chair.
Fig. 239.
Fig. 338.
Fig. 238.
A Key-Board.
Fig. 239.
Fig. 340.
A Whisk-Broom
Fig. 241.
Fig. 242.
A Corner
Clock-Shelf.
A Kitchen
Holder. A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box.
INIatch-Box.
CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS edge
A
of
projecting over that of B.
bracket pieces as
in Fig. 247,
long or front edge
of the
Fig. 247) so that of
shown
D will
project
of
when they beyond
C
C
and
185
Cut the three
then cut \ inch off
E (see
dotted Hne,
are nailed together the edge
and
E as shown
in Fig. 245.
and bracket should be placed under a heavy The photograph shows weight until the glue has set. how to hang the shelf in the corner by means of brads
The
shelf
and screw-eyes, the brads being driven into the under side of the shelf
and the eyes screwed into the wall
them to stick through. A Whisk-broom Holder such
as
is
shown
in Fig.
for
240
is
a gift which any one will appreciate for his or her room.
Make
the back and front pieces
similar
A
and
B
(Fig.
and cut the side pieces
248)
\^
to
inches high by i^ inches
Place the side pieces
wide.
between the front and back
in
putting the holder together.
A
large match-box
handy
is
a very
article for the kitchen,
where the supply
of
matches
Fig. 248.
— Patterns
for
Whisk-
broom Holder.
generally disappears so rapidly that an ordinary size of
or so,
box requires
refilling
every day
and
The Kitchen Match-box shown
in Fig.
241 will be ap-
preciated by your mother, because the large receptacle in
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
i86
the lower portion will hold a
upper part
A
box
of the
is
full
box
The
of matches.
intended for burnt matches.
Figure 249 shows the patterns for the different pieces. the ends, C the front of the upper reis the back,
B
FiG. 249.
ceptacle,
and
D of
for
Kitchen Match-box.
the front of the lower receptacle.
sides these pieces
by the length
— Patterns you
will
C for the
need a piece i\ inches wide
bottom
of the
upper receptacle
and a piece 2\ inches wide by the length bottom of the lower one. The photograph
how
to put the pieces together.
completed and given
A pipe
of the
of
D
will
show you
glue a strip of No. o
lower receptacle.
gift suitable for the relative or friend
who smokes
a
is
The Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box shown 242.
for the
After the box has been
its oil finish,
sandpaper to the bottom
Be-
The
little
cottages are
made out
Fig.
in
of cigar-box
wood,
but the back and bottom pieces (Fig. 250) are cut out of thicker material; i-inch pine, whitewood, or basswood will do.
Figure 251 shows the dimensions for the
cot-
CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS tages and the
method
them
of putting
187
together.
As
the
end cottages are match-boxes, cut an opening in the outer
Use glue and |-inch
side of their roofs as in Fig. 251.
t
.-# h
I
H"
-<^
©
^H" H^3f-4— 3i'-^
5f
Fig, 250.
Fig. 252. Fig. 251. Fig. 250.
— Patterns for Back and Bottom Pieces of Cottage Pipe-rack and
Match-box.
— Details of Cottages. — Patterns for Paper Doors and Windows. Fig. 252. Fig. 251.
brads in fastening the pieces, also cloth strips for attaching the roof.
Give the cottages two coats the top
and edges
of linseed-oil, then paint
of the roofs red
(
Venetian red) and
With a rule and pencil lay out the doors and windows upon a piece of white letterpaper, then draw the lines in ink, paint the shutters green and the glass black (use water-colors), and mark off the the under side white.
divisions in the glass with white
then cut these out and
;
glue them on to the cottages as
shown
in the photo-
graph.
After the back and bottom pieces have been cut
9.rLd
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
i88
the holes have been bored in the bottom piece (Fig. 250),
down with sandpaper and
rub them
edge
of the
bottom
nail the
back to the
Give the back piece two coats
piece.
form a pretty
of white lead
and chrome-yellow (mixed
cream
and the bottom piece two coats
color)
Glue the cottages
greejt.
shown
in
place,
to
spacing them as
photograph, then cut out the
in the
of olive-
little
chim-
them red with white caps {yenetia7i red and white lead), and glue them in place. Cut the trees out of a piece of cigar-box wood, paint them green, and fasten them to the back piece with brads. Screw two screw-eyes into the top edge of the back piece neys to
the roofs, paint
fit
and glue a which
strip of
sandpaper below each end cottage on
to strike matches.
and four cottage pipe-racks may be made by changing the proportions of the back and bottom
Two,
pieces,
A
three,
and
made by attaching a single cotsimilar to A, Fig. 249, will be a
Cottage Match-box,
tage to a back piece pretty
gift.
The
cottage
may
center for good and burnt
opening must be cut
Among
the
in
be divided through the
matches, in which case an
each side of the
roof.
many
Other Gifts which
may be made
out of cigar boxes are
a letter opener, a hall letter-rack, a cube-shaped box for
and a handkerUse your ingenuity and work out your own
string, a tooth-brush rack, a glove box,
chief box.
designs for these,
m^fi CHAPTER
XII
CLOCKWORK TOYS
The
shown opposite page 190
toys
many mechanical
are a few of the
toys which can be operated by clock
work, and they are easy to make, too, requiring no
mechanical ability than old
enough
is
more
possessed by the average boy
to handle the simplest of tools.
Generally
it
is
easy to find an old clock somewhere
about the house, and a clock which has been discarded simply because it has become worthless as a timekeeper is
perfectly
mainspring have a
good is
set of
in
for operating these toys, provided the
working
works
for
order.
each
It is
toy, for
fastened in place that but a minute fer the
not necessary to
they are so quickly is
required to trans-
works from one toy to another.
Before
commencing work upon the
The Other Necessary Materials.
toys, get together
These
will consist of
cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads,
and a few pieces from the woodpile, with one or two additional articles which are mentioned later on. Brads f inch and i inch in length should be purchased for fastening the framework of the toys together, and the 189
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
190
cigar boxes should be about 8 inches by 4 inches by
inches in
2
Remove
size.
the paper from the boxes
as described in the preceding chapter.
To prepare the Clockwork for use, remove case, detach the
hands and
face,
and pry
wheel pivoted directly under the hands
shown
at
Fig. 257.
in Fig. 257.
Remove
— How the Clockwork Motor
(This
B
A
Box has been
(Fig. 257)
cut
down
and the
to the
lever
is
;
it
from
Its
off the small
this
wheel
is
also iho^ balance-wheel
fastened to the Cigar-box Cover.
Proper Length
for the Ferris
C pivoted
Wheel.)
next to
it,
to in-
crease the speed of the remaining wheels.
Fasten the clockwork motor for
The Merry-go-round shown
in Fig. 253 to the cover of
Fig.
A
Ferkis Wueel.
A Merry-Go-Eofnd
Fig. 253.
B
3r)5.
^
Fig. 254.
A Clockwork Motor.
yig. 256.
A Flving
Airship.
CLOCKWORK TOYS
191
a cigar box, as illustrated in Figs. 254 and 257, boring holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends
on the back
of the
works to
flange from a spool
Remove
of the
formerly occupied by wheel
clockwork
The
A.
in
sealing-wax.
To do
this,
above the spool and melt it
full,
spool,
it is
and make a dent
in
exact center of the hole. a lighted match,
it
is
about half
with the end of a match off
it
on the bottom
of the
with a pencil to indicate the
Heat the end
and press
up with
with a lighted match, allow-
down
compact, smooth
filled
hold a piece of sealing-wax
to drip into the hole until the latter
then press the wax
until
it
the position
hole in the spool
be too large for the pivot and must be
will
the lower
Fig. 257) and fasten the spool
(Z>,
on to the central pivot
ing
set into.
it
of the pivot with
into the dent in the wax.
being careful in doing so to get the spool straight upon
Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar box belonging to the cover to which you have attached the pivot.
the works, for spool
D
to project
through (Fig.
257).
To make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four strips of
wood
8 inches long, and fasten one to
each
corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom side of the
box up; then cut a piece square, locate
its
center
of
F by
from corner to corner as shown hole through
it
|-inch board
drawing diagonal in Fig. 258,
at this point for spool
D
lines
bore a i-inch
(Fig. 254),
then nail the box to the center of the board as
Fig 258.
10 inches
and
shown
in
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
192
laid out
The Tent shoifld be as
shown
upon heavy white paper
After describing a circle with a
in Fig. 259.
radius of 9 inches, describe
another
Fig.
circle
258.— Plan
of
within
Top
it
Fig. 259.
of Stand-
— Pattern
for
Tent of Merry-
go-round.
ard for Merry-go-round.
with a radius of y^ inches, this inner circle (shown by dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide in fastening the tent upon
its
Cut out the
tent-poles.
along the outer it
— The Tent ready
to be
fastened upon a Tent-pole.
edge
KL
and from
cut a triangular piece about
the FiG. 260.
circle,
tent
that included be-
size of
tweCU
KL
linCS
^hc diagram.
and
ML
in
Covcr the Under
ML
A'Z and the upper edge of with glue, lap over to about 7VX, and rub down the edges with of
a cloth to
make
as neat a joint
possible (Fig. 260).
the standard top (G,
between the pieces as
Bore a hole through each corner
H,
/,
and/, Fig.
of
258), then cut four
CLOCKWORK TOYS sandpaper them
sticks 7 Inches long,
193
until
smooth, and
glue them into these holes for
When
The Tent-poles.
the tent has dried, tack
the ends of the poles, being careful to
upon them
;
and
The Horses.
it
Fig. 261.
to the
edge
A
full-size
all
around as shown
pattern for these
a piece of tracitig-paper
in
shown in or any thin is
— Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round.
transparent paper, and place
make an
set evenly
stick a small flag in the peak.
Take
Fig. 261.
it
to
cut a scalloped border out of red or blue
paper and paste Fig. 253,
make
it
exact copy
;
it
pattern
and
soft lead-pencil
over
over the
then rub a
the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
194
blackened side down, and transfer the drawing six times
upon a piece
of light-weight cardboard.
Paint the horses
with water-colors, using the pattern as a guide for shading
and marking them, then cut them out with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors.
Figure 262 shows the pattern for
The Sleighs. board, cut
it
Draw
this
out upon a piece of card-
out and fold along the dotted lines, then turn
r-§
-1
T -iTT
Seats
L Fig. 262.
in the flaps
back.
— Pattern
and glue them
Merry-go-round Sleighs.
to the
dashboard and to the
Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down
the flaps and glue
make
for the
them
to the sides of the sleigh,
and
the back for the front seat like that on the back
seat (Fig. 263).
Then make another
sleigh similar to
the one just completed, for two are required for the merry-
go-round.
mings
Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trim-
of a lighter shade.
CLOCKWORK TOYS
195
Figure 254 shows
The Shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are mounted. Cut them ^^ inches long, whittle them round,
and rub them down with sandpaper. fastened in a spool
hub
The
shafts are
w^iich
has five holes bored in
it
(^,
Fig. 254); bore the holes with
a gimlet or small
them
off first
drill,
marking
with a pencil to
be sure of getting them spaced at equal distances.
ends
of the shafts
Point the
and glue them
—a
Fig. 263. ^^^^^'^^^
Completed sieigh Attachment to Shaft.
into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool
D with a piece of a lead-pencil To
the
fasten
horses
through three of them at
to
2
inches long (Fig. 254).
punch
the shafts,
X (Fig. 261)
and
slip
a hole
each one
over a shaft, then tack the other three horses to the ends of these shafts at the point
X.
To
fasten the sleighs to
the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to the back of the front seat
and the other end around the
shaft (Fig. 263).
The
Girl Riders for the sleighs are
Fig. 264,
Make
that of the horse
for the horses are
size in
shown
full
size in
tracings from the patterns as you
and prepare four
Paint their clothes in bright colors. for
full
and
The Boy Riders Fig. 265.
shown
each boy
rider, so
girls
and
six
made boys.
Cut a second leg
he can be made to
sit
astride of his
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
196
horse,
and glue the leg
Cut a
slit
in
to his hip as
shown
in Fig. 266.
each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on
o^irl riders in them. the o For the Platform shown directly under the horses and
sleighs in Fig. 253, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in
Fig. 265.
Fig. 264.
Fig. 264.
—
Full-size Pattern for the
Fig. 266.
Fig. 266.
— How
the Second
Girl Riders.
of the
Boy
Leg is
At-
tached.
Fig. 265.
diameter;
if
— Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders.
you choose
the merry-go-round, you
moved Punch
in
to
make
may
the Ferris wheel before
use the center pieces
re-
cutting out the rims, as noted in Fig. 271.
a hole through the center of this disk large
D
E
enough
peg connecting spools and to slip through. This platform rests upon the top of spool and revolves
for the
D
with
it.
CLOCKWORK TOYS
The key by which
To operate the Merry-go-round. the mainspring
is
wound up
is
197
shown screwed
on the under side of the cigar-box cover
in place
Fig. 257.
in
While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary have somic means of checking it so it will not unwind the same time, and the best scheme for a check is
to at
to
bore a small gimlet hole through the cover of the cigar
box and stick a match through
this
and run
it
between
the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent it
from turning.
Then when you have wound up
spring and are ready to start the merry-go-round,
have to do
can
you
to pull out the match.
is
The model him runs
all
the
of this toy
for five
minutes with one winding, and any boy
make one which
directions given
which the author has before
will
run as well
if
he follows the
and uses a reasonable amount
of care-
fulness in the work.
Other Animals than horses follow the arrangement of
may be used
some
rounds, and pictures of these
of the
may
if
you wish
latest
be found
to
merry-go-
among
colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, or
if
the
you
may copy them from books and Great fun may be had by changing the
can draw well, you magazines.
boy riders, making them ride backward the time and sometimes two and three boys on a
positions of the part of horse.
Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel,
and a good many of you have ridden
in the smaller
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
198
wheels patterned after
you
A
it,
amusement
at the
parks, so
be interested in making
will
shown
Miniature Ferris Wheel like the one
Fig.
in
255.
The Standard consists of
for
supporting the
wheel
(Fig.
267)
two triangular supports, one with a spool
hub fastened
to
top for
its
the axle of the wheel to run
through and the other with the cigar box inclosing the
clockwork fastened
to
it.
Figures 268, 269, and 270
show the construction Cut
these supports.
P
and
and
P
Q
12
of
strips
inches long
10 inches long, and
trim off the upper ends of
f iG.
ends
267.
— Standard
will
ends of
for the Ferris
p and
Q, SO
nailed
together, the lower
be 8 inches apart; nail strip
P
and
to its support,
glue and wind
Q
smear one it
To
(Fig. 268).
P
are
to the lower
fasten the spool
hub
side of a piece of tape with
several times
269), then set the spool
when they
on top
around the spool (Fig. of the support
and press
the ends of the tape against the sides of strips
P
and
Q
(Fig. 270).
The Clockwork Motor for the Ferris wheel to the cover of a cigar
box
is
fastened
just as that for the merry-
CLOCKWORK TOYS
199
go-round was fastened (Fig. 257), but the length of the box is cut down as much as the clockwork will allow to the box as square and compact as possible.
make It
very necessary to
is
the
have
axle
bearings
exactly on a line in order to
have
run
wheel
the
in fastening l^^' the cigar box to its sup-
smoothly,
port,
so,
be sure that the cen-
ter of the hole in spool I?
(Fig.
257)
is
with the spool
on a
level
hub on the Nail
support.
opposite
the supports to a
lO-inch
12-inch board, 8 inches by ^ ^
apart,
Fig. 268.
Fig. 268.
— Make
'^'''
Figs. 269 and
and fasten a cigar
270.
fastened to the
box between them for
Two
^°^ the Ferris
^^^ ^
Supports
like
wheel standard.
— How
Top
a Spool
is
of the Support
^^^•
The Station Platform (Fig. 267). To make the Wheel, of
first
lay out the rims
heavy cardboard, using the
for describing the circles,
radii
shown
upon a piece in
Fig. 271
then lay the sheet of cardboard
upon a board and Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful not to run off of the pencil line.
Hubs
them
of the
wheel are spools with
for the spokes to
Spokes
5|-
The
fit
six holes
in (Fig. 274).
Cut
bored in
six
inches long by ^ inch thick for each hub,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
200
and cut a to
fit
slot in
in (Figs.
one end
of
each for the cardboard
272 and 275).
Use a saw
Fig. 272.
Fig. 271.
rirns
rather than a
Fig. 273.
— How to lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel.
Fig. 271.
into the Spool Hub. Fig. 272. — The Spokes Fig. 273. — The Rim slipped into the End of the Spokes. fitted
knife in
making the
make
slots, for it will
a kerf of just
the right width to receive the cardboard and will not
be so apt to
split
the
ends
the
of
spokes.
slender
Whittle the hub ends of the spokes to
:6^
in
the
fit
spool
272 and 275). Fig.
274. — A
Spool
Hub
for
the Wheel.
rim into the
the holes
hubs (Figs. In
Putting together the Fig. 275.
-How the
Rims
spokes, Hubs, and
Spokes, Rims, and
i
i
Axles are fastened
the wheel,
Together.
spokes
slots in their ends,
in a
r first
•
i
of
i
stick three
hub and
slip a
then stick the remaining
spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the rim
enough so
When
it
can be slipped into their
slots (Fig. 273).
the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled,
CLOCKWORK TOYS lay
them aside and get some heavy wrapping-paper
The
To make the Cars. in Fig. 276,
and on
Fig. 276.
it
it
pattern for the cars
you
— Pattern
necessary for laying
will find all the
for the Ferris
Wheel
out to the proper
understood that the unfigured portions the
them.
same
The
or
which
thin cardboard out of
are
20I
shown
dimensions
Cars.
size.
of the
It will
be
drawing
marked upon door and window open-
as those with dimensions
dotted lines at the
is
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
202
ings indicate where the cutting
is
to
be done, while
other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard
finished
it,
illustration
to be
is
making the drawing to get the lines straight, and when you have go over it carefully and compare it with the to be sure it is correct, after which make a Use
scored and folded. of the car
all
careful tracing of
it,
a ruler in
turn
it
over and transfer the draw-
ing five times upon cardboard.
These and your
original
you the required number of cars. Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do punch the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors a J-inch hole in each end of each car with a lead-pencil drawing
will give
;
(Fig. 276), being careful to get the holes exactly opposite.
In folding and glu-
____^
ing
the
cars,
slip
the flaps inside and
bend the they Fig. 277.
— A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel.
roofs so
will follow the
curve of the ends (Fig. 277).
When
the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5 inches long, whittle them down until they are about \ inch in diameter,
and sandpaper them
round and smooth.
These
until they are perfectly
sticks connect the rims of
the wheel and form
The Axles from which the cars are hung (Fig. 277). Great care must be used in fastening them between the rims, for they are easily split,
and the best way
to
do
is
CLOCKWORK TOYS to start a hole first
ends of each axle with an
In the
by driving a brad part way
awl, or
drawing
it
;
203
in
and then with-
then drive a brad through each spoke of
one rim into an axle (Fig. 275) slip the other ends of the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig. ;
277),
and
nail the
spokes of the other rim to them.
To mount the Wheel upon
8^ inches long to
its
standard, whittle an axle
the hubs, then hold the wheel be-
fit
tween the two uprights, with the hubs on a
line
with the
and run the axle through the holes (Fig.
spool bearings 255).
Build Steps at each end of the platform out of heavy
cardboard back and wide, for the steps, the balustrades
Make
Fold the paper or
cardboard.
writing-paper or light
forth,
and
making
after
pleats about
gluing
and glue them
it
to the
^ inch
in place, cut out
edges
of the steps.
enough so there will be about J-inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars the top step low
(Fig- 255)-
After you have
made
a final
inspection to see that
everything has been put together properly, your toy will
be ready for operation, and the clockwork
machinery
I
am
sure that
in motion,
begins to revolve slowly with each
upon
its axle,
you
will
when you
and the little
little
set
wheel
car balancing
agree that you have constructed
a very interesting toy.
The a
"
Flying Airships
number
of cars
" is
a riding device consisting of
suspended by
steel cables
from large
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
204
arms pivoted
When
to the top of a tower.
the machin-
and the motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from the center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars swing out farther and farther, until when the highest speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the cars some distance above the ground then the speed of ery
is
started, the
arms begin
to revolve slowly,
;
the engine
is
gradually diminished, and the cars finally
This piece
regain their former position.
known You will
also
easy to
of apparatus
is
as an aerostat. find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 256)
making a merry-go-round
construct after
many
Ferris wheel, as
or
of its details are identical with
those of the other toys.
The Standard for the toy
is
made
similar to the one for
the merry-go-round (Fig. 253), except that the top board is
omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the
of the disks
Ferris wheel
removed
in
substituted
is
through the exact center will
fit
cutting out
over spool
D
in
its
rims of the
the
Cut a hole
place.
of the piece large
size
enough
so
it
(Fig. 254).
Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and of the diameter of the hole in the spool 3 inches
below the top
four horizontal
and
stick
of the
it
into spool
D
;
then
mast fasten a spool with
arms 6 inches long glued
into
holes
Fasten a cross-piece \\ inches long to the end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend bored in
it.
Cars cords.
made
CLOCKWORK TOYS
205
similar to those of the
Ferris wheel with
Set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the
mast and then run cords from the top the ends of the
With as
arm
of the
mast out to
pieces.
this toy the cars
cannot be swung out obliquely
on the large flying airships except by Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork.
This can be
accomplished by removing one or two of the wheels the clockwork, but
than one
wheel
merry-go-round
it is
not advisable to take out more
in addition to those
(F'ig.
of
removed
for the
257) because the mainspring would
require rewinding too often to
make
the toy enjoyable.
Of
the
modern
handicrafts requiring materials other
than wood, those in which metal
is
used are probably
the most interesting to boys, for metal principal materials for
chanical nature
;
work
all
an
of
one of their
is
electrical or
and as metal handicrafts require
me-
tools
such as most boys are accustomed to handle, the work probably better suited to boys than to Brass-piercing is
is
girls.
an interesting metal
inexpensive, and the
work
is
simple.
The Tools and Materials Required
:
is
—
craft,
the material
Following are
Hammer Piercing Tool (see Fig. 278)
\" Cold-chisel (see Fig. 278) Flat
or
Half-round
Metal-file
(see Fig. S3> page 25)
Board
(Whitewood or Basswood) i" X 12" X 20"
Pencil, Eraser,
FlLEOTTO A P0|nT
NaUl- set J.D TO
Use one
A PO'NT ofthese
for a piebcer
Fig. 278.
— Some
and Compass
Drawing-paper and Carbon *^ '/8" ROUND-HEAO •
'Escutcheon Pin
of the Tools
and
Materials Required.
Paper
No. 30 Gauge Sheet Brass small work
206
for
BRASS CRAFT No. 28 Gauge Sheet Brass
for large
207
work
Tacks
6-oz.
I" Round-head Escutcheon Pins (Fig. 278) Brass Shanks or Paper Fasteners (Fig. 278)
\" Brass Screw-eyes
Box of No. 20 Brass Chain
Bead Fringe)
(or
(Fig. 278)
Metal Polish and Lacquer
To make
easy the work
of laying out designs
for
the articles illustrated in this chapter, suitable designs are
shown
Those which
at a small scale.
less elaborate
may
be drawn
full size
Enlarging by Squares, which of the small
is
thing to do
first
and marginal
by the process
easy to carry out.
of
Each
sions given
is
^ inch square
(Fig. 281).
to lay out, full size, the outlines
lines of the piece of brass required for the
upon a piece
article
more or
squares drawn across these designs represents
a space on the full-size pattern
The
are
of drawing-paper,
upon the diagram.
using the dimen-
Take one
side of
the
i2-by-20-inch board for a drawing-board and use the other side to
do the piercing on
Then when you have ments
;
tack the paper to the board.
carefully
checked up the measure-
upon the diagram, lay off the squares upon it, making each of those shown ^ inch each way; then number one end of the horizontal lines and letter one end of the vertical lines as shown, and it will
with
those
a simple matter to locate each portion of the
be
design upon your pattern just where book,
for,
it
is
shown
in the
by the lettering and numbering, corresponding
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
2o8
When
squares can be located quickly.
been drawn out
full size, it is
pattern
off the entire
the design has
a simple matter to trace
— outline
and design
— upon
a
piece of brass, by placing a piece of carbon paper between the drawing-paper and the brass and then carefully trac-
ing over the lines with a sharp pencil.
such as stenographers use upon
making duplicate copies
Carbon paper
their typewriters for
of typewritten
matter
may
be
Where two sides of a design are similar (Fig. 285), enlarge one half, make a tracing of it, reverse the tracing, used.
and trace if
it
off
the design
is
upon the opposite
repeated several times, lay
one section and then trace
By doing
this
side of the center-line;
it is
it
off
it
out upon
upon the other
sections.
easier to get all portions alike.
Leave
a margin of about to
\ inch around the edges of the outline turning in. Be sure not to cut out the
allow for
piece
fromi
the sheet until after you have pierced the
design, except in cases where the brass
upon wood,
is
to be
mounted
for the square piece will be easier to hold to
the board during this operation.
When
ready
To pierce a Design,
first
follow the outlines of the entire
design and pierce a continuous row of small holes along
them, placing the holes as close together as possible and
making them
of equal size;
then
fill
in a series of coarser
holes in the spaces between these rows of holes to form
a background to the
design.
As
the piercing tool
tapered to a point, the size of the hole
is,
is
of course, deter-
BRASS CRAFT
209
mined by the depth to which it is driven through the Drive the tool with a hammer. The backo^round brass. holes should not be spaced off in even rows nor in the
form of a pattern, for the effect would be such as detract from the design, but they should
over the field in such a
way
to
be scattered
that the spaces between will
be about equal; this will give the background an even tone.
Wire brushes
are sold for
Polishing the Brass, but you will find that any sort of
metal polish or scouring powder will answer the purpose very well.
Of course the brass
will tarnish
polished from time to time to keep finish
is
in color
put upon
— may
it.
it
and must be
bright, unless
Brass lacquers
some
— transparent
or
be purchased at the art stores, but you
will find
A Home-made
Antique Green Lacquer of the following
formula very pretty and a simple solution to I
part
I
part
make up
:
—
ammonia muriate ammonia carbonate
12 parts cold water
The metal should
be cleaned thoroughly and the solu-
tion should be applied with a brush. of the
Several applications
lacquer will improve the depth of the finish.
With
these
general
instructions in
mind, you can
begin work upon some of the simpler articles illustrated in this
A
chapter.
Tea-pot Stand such as
is
shown
in Fig.
279 consists
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
2IO of a circular
brass
is
wood
mounted.
upon which a piece of perforated Use a piece of ^-inch whitewood or basswood for the disk. Make it
disk
5^1 inches in diameter, cut it out with a compass-saw or other fine saw, and smooth the edges with a wood-file
paper the
or
chisel
Cut a
it.
;
then
sand-
strip of brass of
proper width and length to
form a metal band for the edge Fig. 279.
the base, and tack
Fig. 279.
— A Tea-pot Stand.
Fig. 280.
-Section through With
The
After the de-
Fig. 281.
sign has been laid out
upon
full
brass, the piece
should be cut out before the perforating
is
done and
fastened to the base with
escutcheon pins. a circle about side brass,
to the
edge
.
escutckeou plUS (Fig. 278),
spacing them about f inch apart. pattern for the top brass covering is shown in
Stand.
size
it .
of
of
the
Describe
^ inch
in-
edge of the
locate positions for
A
B
C
D
e
BRASS CRAFT
The edge
pins into the base.
211
of the brass top will pro-
about yV inch over the brass band (Fig. 280). Drive three rug tacks into the base, as shown, for feet.
ject
A
Calendar Board like the one
make
New
a pretty Christmas or
struction
is
shown
in Fig. 282 will
Year's
gift.
Its
con-
similar to that of the
tea-pot stand, with the omission of the feet
and the addition
of a
brass screw-eye screwed into the
top by which to
calendar
small
bought this
hang can
up.
A
usually
be
it
at a stationery store,
and
should be attached to the exact
center of the board by
means of two
escutcheon pins driven through
Fig. 282.
— A Calendar
Board.
the corners of the top margin.
The Pen Tray illustrated
in Fig.
283 requires a bottom
block of the size shown in Fig. 284.
Fig. 283.
—A Pen Tray.
Fig. 284.
Brass
this,
After preparing
— Wood Bottom and
Rim
for the
Pen Tray.
cut a piece of brass of the exact width and length
of the
block and fasten
it
to the top with
escutcheon pins,
spacing the pins about as shown in Fig. 283.
Then
en-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
212
large the design brass,
shown
and perforate
in Fig. 285, trace
to
it
— Design
for
for the left half.)
should be
made
to lap at
File off the top
edge
of the
strip
of
felt
bottom
to the
of
A
Lamp-shade
of
the
tray
sides,
when laid out on shown upon two of
sides appear
sign
is
the
edge
form
to
to the
The ends
to
tray.
the
of
in Fig. 283.
to prevent it is
among
from
it
placed.
the most popular
shows
Fig. 286
six
it
rim smooth and glue a piece
candle shades are
pierced brass articles.
Fig.
and tack
one corner as
scratching any surface upon which
Lamp and
in
284,
a rim
Bottom of Pen Tray. it
bottom block,
shown
as
Fig. 285.
the
around the edge
fit
of the
(Enlarge the right half and reverse
upon
After this has been done, cut a
it.
J inch wide, bend
strip of brass
off
it
and Fig. 287 how the a sheet of brass.
The
de-
the panels, in the pattern:
on one as
will
it
appear
when the background is perforated,
and on the other
wdth the squares marked off
upon
it
larging
to help it.
out the design
The
you
After
in en- Fig. 286.— A Lamp-shade of six
laying
full size, trace it off
Sides.
(See Fig. 142, chapter vi.)
upon each
of the panels.
piece should be cut out, after the perforating has
been completed, and folded along the dotted
lines.
Bend
BRASS CRAFT the brass over the sharp edge of
213
your board.
The
flaps
along the top and bottom edges should be turned in and
Fig. 287.
hammered
flat
— Pattern
for
Lamp-shade of Six Sides.
against the sides of the shade, and the
end edges should also be turned
in
and one lapped over
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
214
Fasten the end edges
the other.
with brass
paper fasteners, or escutcheon pins (Fig. the ends over
upon the
inside.
If
278),
shanks,
bending
you use the
pins,
them off short and clinch them upon the inside by placing them on the head of a hatchet and hammering the heads with a hammer. Chain Fringe is cheaper and more interesting to put on than the bead fringe frequently used upon brass shades.
cut
Figure 278 shows the size which should be bought. this
up into 3-inch lengths and fasten the pieces
Cut to the
lower edge of the shade about ^^ inch from center to center, hooking the opened link on the end of each piece of chain through a hole
then pinching
it
punched through the
brass,
and
Fig.
291
closed.
on the candle-stick
The Candle- shade
in
should be laid out by the pattern in Fig. 288. landscape design to enlarge
it
is
very simple,
will
it
As
the
not be necessary
After piercing and cutting out
by squares.
the piece of brass, snip the top and bottom edges, cutting
out
small triangular pieces as shown,
over the flat
little flaps
and then bend
hammer them down shade. The edge of
thus formed and
against the inside face of the
one end of the piece should also be turned line
on
pattern),
and
this
in (see dotted
should either be lapped over
the other edge and the two fastened as described for the
other shade, or the other edge should be folded out and
one edge hooked into the other as the edges are joined; and the two
hammered down
of a tin
so as to
can
make
BRASS CRAFT neat
a
edge.
215
Attach chain fringe
to
the rim as
de-
scribed for the other shade.
Figures 289 and 290 show two forms of
Shade Holders, the former for an electric lamp and the latter for a candle.
These can be
bought where light-fixtures are sold and cost about 10 cents apiece. The Candle-stick shown is
easy to make, and
in Fig. 291
when is
the
wood ^f"^'-
carefully cov-
ered
289.
with the
brass,
makes
^^^- -9°-
a Fig. 280.
very
neat-ap-
pearing
brass,
292
them.
sizes
together
which are
— Candle-shade
Holder.
•
shows the
of
the pieces of
with
the
designs
to be perforated
First
Lamp-
.^^je Holder. Fig. 290.
article.
rr rigure
—
Electric
prepare
the
upon
wood
blocks for the base, upright, and top pieces,
making them -^ inch
less
than the dimensions given upon the patterns, to allow for the thickness of the brass.
Before fastening the
blocks together, prepare the brass
them in place, lay out ^he designs, and perforate them,
pieces, nail Fig.
291.- A Brass Candle-
stick with Circular
Shade.
The
sidcs should bc
made
in
one
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
2l6
piece and be bent around the corners.
The upper
ing of the top and base pieces should project about
cover-
^ inch
^1" EDGE OF TOP
MO
(CotSto.p lons
ENOytH FO« 4 CD«e&) '
'T
1
i
Fig. 292.
Patterns for Brass Pieces of the Candle-stick.
(Cut the wood blocks Jg inch less than the
dimensions to allow
as
shown
above
for the thickness ot the brass.)
in Fig. 291.
After naihng
the blocks together, glue a strip of to the
bottom
felt
mm
of the base piece.
The "Paul Revere" Lantern shown in
Fig. 293 differs from the lanterns
used in the colonial times only in this respect
—
it
is
lighted
by removing
— A "Paul
Fig. 293.
Revere
" Lantern.
the bottom instead of through a door-
way
in the side.
The door has been omitted
the construction simpler
an exact copy, you
;
however,
may make
with pieces of wire.
For
if
to
you wash to
a door and hinge
this lantern the
it
proper
make make
in place size for
an opening would be 3^ by 6| inches.
The
right-hand portion of the
patterns for the side
BRASS CRAFT
217
296 and 297) shows the main measurements for the design, and at the left the design (Figs.
and top pieces
shown
After
out lines
laying
to
the
measurements given, divide up the spaces between
into
is
the
perforated.
number
made with
design
are
piercer,
and the
The
shown.
of spaces
small holes of the
a
are
slits
cut with a cold-chisel (Fig.
Space the perfora-
278).
shown, and be
as
tions
careful to
the
of
keep the ends within
slits
295^- The
the
Fig. 294.
f^^. Lantern Bottom.
— The
Lantern Sides.
guide-lines
The
on the upper edge
tips
slots cut in the top piece
through the
and hold the top
297),
of the side piece slip
to the
sides
(Figs. 296 and
when bent
over,
two holes near the bottom edge are made receive the pins which hold the bottom in place the
while to
and 295). the ends of the
(Figs. 293, 294,
Fasten
side
piece
together with
shanks (Fig. 294), then cut a circular block of wood to fit in the bottom end of this cylinder (Fig. 295), brass
and fasten to
it
enough diameter the of
sides
a
strip
of of
the
a to
circular
make
lantern.
brass, as
the
lantern are
of brass of a large
projection
a ^-inch
Make
shown
in
beyond
candle-holder out
a
Fig.
295,
The pins for holding made out of two brass
this to the base block.
in
piece
and tack
the bottom
screw-eyes,
E HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
2l8
by filing off the threads, and these are held to the bottom with short pieces of brass chain to keep them from being lost when the bottom is removed for lighting:
the candle.
Before fastening the top to the sides Fig.
2(
BRASS Strip fop lanteon ring
Fig. 298.
A
U,t Fig. 296,
— Pattern of Lantern Sides. — Pattern of Lantern Top. 298. — Brass Strip for Lantern Ring.
Fig. 296.
Fig. 297. Fig.
Cut a
prepare the lantern ring.
shown it
stiff,
in Fig. 298,
bend
and then bend
it
it
over along the center to make
and clinch the ends can are clinched. Wire
into a ring
together like the sides of a tin the ring to the peak as
strip of brass of the size
shown
in Fig. 293.
Marconi's experiments from 1895 to 1899 to devise instruments for the transmitting and recording of messages without the use of wires, resulted of successes
which astonished the
in a
number
scientific world,
but
when he so perfected the apparatus that he was enabled on December 12, 1901, to transmit across the Atlantic Ocean from Newfoundland to England, this crowning success was accepted by one and
all
as one of the greatest
achievements of modern times.
upon by many as depending upon a mysterious phenomena, far too deep for the amateur to understand, it was not long after articles treating at length upon the subject began to appear in the newspapers and technical journals Soon after the that boys started to study into it.
Though
wireless telegraphy was looked
establishment of a wireless station at the Charlestown
Navy Yard, the operators became aware one day that somebody was tampering with their messages, for they began
to pick
unofficial
up remarks, which were
character.
The 219
interference
of a decidedly
became very
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
220
annoying,
and
it
was a number
days before the
of
source could be located; then a crudely arranged mast
upon a shed
roof, a
few squares from the Navy Yard,
furnished a clew and, as might naturally be expected, wires from the
down
top
of
mast were found
the
lead
to
was discovered that two boys had fitted up a home electrical shop and installed a complete sending and receiving apparatus. The where
into the shed
it
investigators were of course greatly surprised to find that they
had been
well imagine their
by mere boys, but you can chagrin when, upon examining the baffled
was mostly home-made and that though part of it was constructed out of nothing more or less than junk, it was serving the purpose of the government's complicated and costly equipment, they found that
it
apparatus.
This just goes to show, boys, that
something out close to
it,
of nothing,
can't
make
you can often come pretty
and that with the things you can ordinarily and
find about the house, the shed,
stores
you
if
you can construct
all
in the
junk
sorts of things,
dealers'
many
of
which your father and men manufacturing those very things the
would not believe could be made except with
materials
customarily
convey the impression by wireless outfit out of
used.
I
do not mean
to
you can construct a but it can be alone
this that
such stuff
;
used to advantage to help out.
Other boys naturally followed
in
the
footsteps
of
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT boy
pioneer
the
and
outfits,
it
time, there
experimenters
making
in
221
wireless
has been estimated that, at the present
are
the neighborhood of five thousand
in
amateur stations
the
in
country,
to
countless thousands of boy enthusiasts
say
nothing
of
who would own
knew what is required, what parts can make, how to do the work,, and how to go
outfits
they
they but
if
Everywhere you go, now, you are likely to see the earmarks of the amateur station in the masts set up on the housetops, used about installing the
outfit.
In Chicago
support the aerials.
to
there are nearly
three hundred of these stations, and in
some
parts of
where the enthusiasm runs high you can count
the city
more of poles within the range of the eye. To show you What Some Boys have accomplished let me quote from
a score or
•
two
Richard Cobb, who
of their letters.
published in the Boston Herald:
I
I
have erected at
receive
all
each night
cutters, the
Rock,
my
it
stations in the
Gresham and is
very
Once
in
Aciishnet,
high-pitched
a while
At 10 o'clock
hear the
two
revenue
in a while I
hear Brant
When
sending a
and sends D.
repeats each word.
o'clock each day. in
I
and once
"I suppose each boy that has a receiving
comes
district.
hear the wireless telegraph station Wellfleet, and amateur
I
which
message
—
house a simple wireless telegraph station.
the government
between times.
stations
Cam-
Massachusetts, writes the following in a letter
bridge,
"
lives in
very loud.
I
set receives
receive the time each day except I set
my
watch by
it
each day.
the time at 12
Sundays.
My
call is I
It
L
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
222
in the Continental
and
I
X
My
Morse code.
the
in
set
comprises a
one pair
silicon detector, fixed condenser, double-slide tuning-coil,
500-ohm
receivers,
10 1 feet antennae and a gas pipe for a ground.
of I
have very good results."
The making
of
the same
forms of instruments as
Richard mentions, with the exception Rindge, also of Cambridge, says
receiving and a very simple
tuning-coil, a silicon detector set
was a good deal
quite a
" All
:
—
began to study wireless telegraphy about two years ago,
before the Republic sent out that famous for
number of
my
Most stations,
better,
sets,
one.
I
had a pair of
but the one
I
now
have
My
D.
I
My
receiver. receivers.
I
think
is
I
just
was only
set
first
consisted of a poorly
It
instruments are home-made.
of the
Q
C
and a telephone
and
is
In the same paper, Fulton
described in this chapter.
" I
of the receivers,
made
second
have had
pretty good.
can send about 10 miles."
boys are highly successful with their home
and with simple apparatus are able
to receive
everything within a radius of 100 miles and to transmit a distance of several miles.
Any boy
is
free to receive
government and commercial station messages,
for this
does not cause any disturbance, but he must not interfere
with such messages^ for such interference has made much trouble and resulted in the enactment of a law forbidding it
under a severe penalty.
The Chicago amateurs have
a society
known
as
The Chicago Wireless Club, and under the guidance of their president, Mr. Royal C. Dickson, a pioneer amateur wireless experimenter and.
now an
expert for one of the
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT
223
commercial companies, they are making remarkAt the regular meetings lectures upon able progress. large
the subject are given,
all
are
details
members have had difficulty clearly explained. Each member
the
of
a
and
code card,
large
PRIVATE
upon
the
w^hich
Morse and Conticodes
nental
printed type,
are
large
in
and a sheet
containing list of all
a
the
call
mem-
owKEO
mo
onntrco
ii
about which any in is
understanding furnished with
2
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
24
a wireless outfit, and, realizing that he could give you
boys the most practical suggestions, the author succeeded
him
in getting
to consent to
you the material presented tions
work up and describe
The
in this chapter.
of these models, boys,
lished articles
on wireless
have been tested
Many
out on one of the large lake boats.
of the pub-
outfits describe parts of the
equipment which are very
difficult for a
boy
to
such as the construction of an induction-coil,
boy undertaking the work is
illustra-
have been made directly from the models furnished
by him, and some
it
for
more than
finished
it
is
it
not
will
— and
— a
often discouraged before
half completed, or
that
make,
finds after
operate.
Mr.
he has
Dickson's
suggestions wiU be found easy to carry out, and the
apparatus will work splendidly.
The
illustrations
show, besides the pieces which you
can make, the best forms of the parts which must be purchased. Before undertaking the construction and installation of the wireless instruments,
you should know something
about
The Fundamental
Throughout
all
though nothing stance,
which
and called
is
ether,
for transmitting
Principles
of
space a substance definite
is
is
Telegraphy.
supposed to
known about
colorless, odorless, is
Wireless
it,
and
exist,
this sub-
and without weight,
supposed to have remarkable qualities
vibrations
through space.
You
have noticed how when a moving boat disturbs the
boys sur-
Fig. 300. in
— A Good Way to arrange
the Wireless Instruments
your Room.
upon a Table
(See Wiring Diagram. Fig. 325.)
225
;
2
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
26
body
face of a in the all
form
of
communicated the surrounding water, and that
of water, the disturbance
waves
to
is
other craft within range of these waves start to bob
up and down as soon as they are reached. Now, just for example, let us imagine that a body of water is the ether I
have been telling you about, that there are a number
of yachts,
each
Then of
of
motor
these
let
is
boats,
and other
craft at anchor,
and
that
the aerial of a wireless telegraph station.
us suppose that one of the boats in the midst
the others weighs anchor and gets under way, and
upon the water represents the transmitting of a message through the ether, and each wave which rolls out from the wake of the passing boat represents a dot or dash of a message, and you will get a pretty good idea of how a wireless message travels that the resulting action
but the waves in the ether (they are netic or fact,
Hertzian waves)
known
2^^
electromag-
travel very rapidly, so rapidly, In
that they are recorded practically the instant that
the electric discharges are made, no matter what length of space they
Electricity
have is
to travel
through.
used by which to produce the waves
sending a wireless message, and in our small is
in
outfit this
obtained from batteries, the current from which
is
passed through an induction-coil to increase the voltage
and then jumped across the space between the ends
of
two metal rods of a piece of apparatus known as a sparkgap^ producing a spark whose duration determines the (/^/ and dash (these are used in "wireless" just the same
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT
227
The
current
codes of the ordinary telegraph).
as in the is
then carried by the wires to the aerial wires and
discharged in
it
directions, in the
The earth has
discharges.
and
all
electricity will
that
when aerial
is
of a
the
form
of
tliere
long and short
a great capacity for electricity,
run through anything connected to
proper conducting material.
Therefore,
waves produced by the discharges from an
spread out,
all
the aerials within their range which
them
are groMiided receive
same
just the
as the lightning-
rod receives the lightning discharges, and the current
runs of
down
into the
lightning runs
The long and
ground
down
in the
same way
that a bolt
a lightning-rod into the ground.
short discharges are recorded by
means
of
telephone receivers after they have been regulated by a
number
which
of pieces of apparatus,
be taken up
will
later.
The
first
thing to consider
The Aerial or antennce. undertaking rests so
is
The
success
much upon
this that
be the best that can possibly be made. aerial results
whole
the
of it
ought
With
to
good
a
can be secured even with inferior instru-
ments, but the most excellent instruments will not
re-
Two
things
should be figured upon, the height and the length.
Each
spond when connected to a poor
is
aerial.
important, and the longer and higher the aerial
better the results will be.
high
at
one end and
the
should be at least 30 feet
It
at least
is,
50 feet long.
vertical, horizontal, or slanting,
It
may be
but usually the best
re-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
?28 Si:
*^:l
are obtained
when
it
is
supported horizontally
or
between two supports (Fig. 301). A very satisfactory aerial is one which is 70 or 80 feet long and 50 slai'-ting
Fig. 301.
— The Length of the Aerial Mast can be reduced by erecting
a Roof.
Use Two Masts
if
One End cannot be supported
as
it
upon
Above.
more high. With such an a'erial and the instruments described upon the following pages receiving can
feet or
be accomplished within a radius of several hundred
Of course the dimensions of the aerial will necessarily depend upon the character of the place, and if the masts are erected upon the housetop or the roof
miles.
of a shed, the height
can be obtained with shorter ma-
terial (Fig. 301).
The wire,
aerial should
have not
and eight or ten are
less
better,
than
six strands of
and these should be
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT Spaced
i
A
foot apart (Fig. 302).
end
require a spreader at each
229
six-strand aerial will
5 feet
6 inches long and
an eight-strand aerial will require one 7 feet 6 inches
THESE Wjnti SHOULD BE AT LE AST 50 'EtT LONG
Should be 5P
Fig. 302.
1
fOOT
— How to construct a Six-wire Aerial or AntenncB.
These can be made of any Hght, strong pieces of wood. The heavy end of a bamboo fish pole furnishes excellent material as it is very light as well as tough and
long.
The
strong.
wires should not be fastened directly to
the spreader, but
first
Ordinary porcelain
302.
lent insulators
and cost
cleats less
you cannot get these, necks After
stead.
wires
the
shown
spreaders as
shown in Fig. 303) make excel-
to an insulator as (Fig.
than
i
cent a piece, but
of bottles
been
have
may
be used
fastened
to
if
in-
the
in
the diagram of Fig. 302,
and
ropes
attached
have
to
been
screw-eyes
Fig. 303.
— Porcelain
Fig. 304.
— Battery
Porcelain insulator.
^leat.
screwed into the spreaders near the ends, rope stays
must be run from these ropes back to the spreaders as
shown at the
in Fig.
;
otherwise, the spreaders will
bow
in
center and cause the center wires to slacken.
Any and
302
this
sort of wire, except iron or steel,
may
be bare or insulated.
may be
Bare wire
is
used,
cheaper,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
230
but sometimes the builder
of course,
may have
The
wire on hand that can be used to advantage.
should not be smaller than No. 1 6 B.
insulated
wire
& S. gauge, and larger
No. 14 being standard for small outfits. The wire leading in from the aerial must be insulated
wire
is
better.
very carefully at the point where
by passing
it
it
enters the house,
A
through a porcelain insulator.
insulator (Fig. 304) will serve the purpose.
Figure 300
shows how a hole may be bored through the top the upper sulator.
window sash
large
enough
battery
rail of
to receive the in-
This wire must be supported on insulators
wherever support
is
necessary,
all
the
way from
the aerial
to the instruments.
The Masts which support the
aerial
should be equipped
with pulleys, like rigging a flagpole, so that the aerial
may
be
hoisted
or
lowered at any time for repairs.
Clothes-line pulleys such as are
171) and a stout rigging.
The
hemp
poles
shown
clothes-line
must, of
in Fig. 208 (page
may
be used for the
course, be
strongly with wire stays (Fig. 301), and
braced very
good idea and /, Fig. 212, page 174) to set in turnbuckles (see If one end of the so that the stays may be kept taut. aerial can be run down to the house and fastened to it is
a
H
the window-frame, as in Fig. 301, of course only one
mast
will
be necessary.
Grounding the Aerial.
When
not in use, the aerial
should be disconnected from the instruments, and be
connected to the ground wire, as a precaution against
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT
The ground
lightning.
wire
fastened to a water-pipe
is
or to a metal rod driven 6 feet or
ground connection
is
one
into the ground,
makes an
A pump
deep well
will
good
excellent ground,
but where none of these are installed, other
be adopted.
A
of the essentials of a wireless
In cities a water-pipe
outfit.
more
ways described below.
or in one of the other
231
means must
with a pipe extending
down
to a
be satisfactory, or a metal plate placed in
any stream or lake and connected
to the
instruments
will
work very well. If none of these are available, connection must be established by digging down to moist earth, embedding a sheet of metal of 10 square feet or more of surface,
upon
it
and then pouring several bucketfuls of brine before replacing the earth dug from the hole.
The buried
plate
may
be of any metal except iron or
steel.
A
wire should extend from the switch of the instru-
ments
to the £'ro2C7id wh'Q {Fig. 325).
Instead of removing the aerial wire from the instru-
ments
after use,
handier scheme
and connecting is
it
between the
throw, double-pole knife switch
six is
to the
ground
wire, a
to get a doiible- throw, single-pole knife
switch and connect
331.
it
aerial
shown
in
and the doubleFigs. 325
and
This switch has three connections instead of the
on the double-throw, double-pole switch, and the
aerial
connected at the center, the ground at one end, and
the wire from the aerial connection on the switch in Fig.
325 to the other end.
shown
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
232
As many boys this will
A
are satisfied with a receiving set only,
be described
first.
Good Receiving Outfit consists of one or a pair
of
and condenser,
to
telephone receivers, detector, tMumg-coil,
which a pote^itiometcr and a dry battery and a second condenser must be added
when
a detector of the micro-
Of these the The Telephone Receivers must be purchased remaining instruments can be made by any boy. The
phone type
is
used.
;
cheapest good
telephone
consisting
receivers,
receivers
of
two
mounted on
a
head-band with a double connecting cord (Fig. 305) cost about $4, while a single receiver without a
Coil-Sl»der
TO- Detector /or TO- Battery
head-band (Fig. 306) can
.
POTENTIOMETEfy
Fig. 305.
— A Good
be bought for about Fig. 306.
Pair of Telephone
A
Receivers with Head-band and
Receiver,
When
Single
.
a buying ^ ^
$2.
resinsfle ^
cciver, take care to get one
a part of a double
that
is
set,
so that you
Cord.
the other parts as you can afford them, and thus
may add make up
a complete set without having any unused parts
left over.
The
ordinary receiver such as
not at
all
especially
ohms
sensitive enough.
made
receiver
The
for " wireless "
resistance (see
used on telephones
is
receiver should be one
and should have 1000
Ohm, on page
may be used
until a
is
"
An
252).
wireless
"
ordinary
one can be
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT
233
obtained, and interesting results can be secured with
much depends on
but as so
good
a
receiver,
it,
most experi-
menters have a pair and pride themselves on possessing a very sensitive set.
There are a great many types of Detectors, some of which require a battery in conThe detector nection, while others work better without. " waves into such is necessary to change the " wireless form that
will
enable the telephone receivers to render
them audible, so that each wave and be distinguished easily.
The silicon
very best
detector
and as the experimenter without
made
at certain
of
batteries, a
detectors
be given
first.
of
Microphone Detector, you
from dry
buzz
supply houses,
some good
of easily obtainable materials will
For making one form
like a
usually anxious to proceed
is
descriptions
delay,
sound
the silicon type, but as
is
can be obtained only
will
will require
two
flat
wood base about f inch by
carbons 3 inches
by 4 inches, four binding-posts (these may be taken from carbons
copper, or
dry
old
of
tin,
batteries),
a needle,
some
and a paper
strips
of
brass,
fastener, or other
small piece of metal, for a weight.
Figure 307 shows the completed detector and Fig. 308 how the pieces of carbon should be cut from the battery a
sharp
carbons,
how
should be tapered to
and how the brass, copper, should be cut and bent. Cut the carbon
edge with a
or tin strips
their ends file,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
234
pieces
ij inches high and the brass pieces 2^ inches
Cut the projecting
long by the width of the carbons.
shown a means
on
tips
as
space
of
the
top
edge
of
the
brass
pieces,
preventing the needle which spans the
between the carbons from being knocked
off,
End to a Sharp edge thus
/-File >\^
5E"CT10(si
Fig. 309.
A Home-made
Fig. 307.
Microphone Detector.
(See Fig. 326.)
Fig. 308.
How
Fig. 309.
Section showing
to prepare the
Carbon and Brass Pieces.
how
to fasten the Pieces Together.
and make the edge between the carbon tops (see
on the carbons
Punch places
holes for
Fig.
only,
309), as
tips
the
lower than the
needle
must
rest
and not touch the metal anywhere.
through the brass pieces in the proper
connecting them to the carbon pieces, and
make others for connecting them to the base block. The carbons should be placed parallel and about i inch apart. The needle should be considerably longer
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT than the distance between
its
235
bearing points, and
the
paper fastener, or other metal weight, should be placed at the center to
amount
right
make
it
bear upon the carbons with the
By varying
of pressure.
the weight the
most satisfactory adjustment can be found. should the weight be heavy, for not operate at
will it
method
of
it
is,
the
you bend the needle
be easier to keep
will
it
in position.
detector slightly,
The
proper
connecting the detector to the other instru-
shown
307 and 326. Razor Blade Microphone Detector requires a base
ments
A
If
all.
if
In no case
is
in Figs.
of
the size specified for the other detector, two old blades
from a safety
razor, four binding-posts, TO POTENTIOMETER
two
strips of
SLtDEB;
TO Condenser no. 2 ,TO TONiNG-CorLSLIDER;
'Also to telephone Receiveps
Fig. 310.
— A Safety-razor Blade Microphone Detector. (See Fig. 311. — How to prepare the Brass Pieces.
Fig. 310.
Fig. 326.)
brass, copper,
detector
is
shown
The metal in
Fig.
or
311,
tin,
and a No.
3
lead-pencil.
This
in Fig. 310.
strips should
be cut and bent as shown
and holes should be punched
through
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
236
upper part opposite the center hole In the razor blade and in the center of the lower part, as shown, the
connecting the blades to the strips and the
for
to
When
block by means of the binding-posts.
the
strips
resemble, somewhat, the
completed, this detector will
one previously described, the razor blades being placed The No. 3 pencil parallel and about i inch apart. should be of
split
placed
it
open, the graphite removed, and a piece
across the blades just as the needle was
The
placed across the carbons in the other detector. projecting tips should
be cut on the brass pieces, as
shown, to prevent the graphite from the pencil
jarred
or
wave
and
wave has actuated
tapped before if
The
when
Silicon
the
very quickly. sized
lump
Detector
silicon
strip of
enough (Fig.
is
too hard,
Silicon
it
will
best degree of hardness
is
is
easily
undoubtedly
is
the it
not be is
found
made and best,
and
can be made
not expensive, a generous-
Figure 312
of this detector.
should be held to a base block by a
brass having holes
punched through
for the bolt of a binding-post to stick
313),
is,
must be
it
it,
usually being sold for 25 cents.
silicon
If
be ready for another
has been obtained,
shows a simple form
The
will
This detector
No. 3 pencil. works well.
in a
The
it
the graphite
sensitive enough.
off.
the detector will not restore, that
soft,
"wireless"
after a
;
is
rolling
and a small piece
of springy
it
large
through
wire should
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT
shown
be bent as
in
Fig. 314
and be secured
end to the base block by a binding-post
way will
press very lightly on
the
silicon,
as
shown
in
Fig. 312.
In using this de-
tector the
end
which
spot
The
found.
is
silicon
most sensitive
the
until
Fig
NJING-COIU Si_iotR; Also to
SwITCh.
moved around
should be
wire
Fig. 312
—A
Fig. 312.
Fig. 313.
— Strip
Silicon
this
Silicon
De-
(See Fig. 325.)
is
of Brass with which
held to Binding-post.
—
Bend a Piece of Wire like and connect as shown in Fig. 312.
Fig. 314.
silicon.
Home-made
tector.
must never bear heavily on the
such a
in
of the wire
on the
rests
one
at
end
other
the
that
237
Since no two wireless stations, probably,
exactly the it
have exactly the same
same adjustment
would be very
of the
size aerials, or
sending instruments,
difficult for different stations to
municate unless some arrangements were made
to
comcom-
pensate for the differences in construction and adjust-
ment.
The
simplest device for this
tuning, as
it
is
called, is
The Tuning-coil the outfit tor has
The
or Tuner.
a very essential part of
been completed. tuner consists of a single layer of wire
rolling-pin
the pin
is
and should be constructed as soon as a detec-
upon a cylinder not
A
It
is
may be
less
than 2\ inches in diameter.
of just the right size, left
on
it
wound
to turn
it
and the handles
of
by while winding on
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
238
For a cylinder
the wire, and sawed off afterwards. this thickness, a length of
a sufficient
amount
1 1
of wire.
inches
is
necessary to secure
The tuner should be wound
&
with copper wire not larger than No. 20 B.
and not smaller than No. or any other
wire
obtain that which
but as
best,
it
24.
Do
The
enameled.
can be obtained
supply houses, you
may
S.
gauge
not use cotton-covered
kind of insulated wire,
is
of
you can
if
latter is the very
only from the larger
not be able to get
it,
in
which
case you will have to use bare wire.
Before winding, give the core two coats of shellac; this will
form a yielding surface
and
keep the wire
will
in place
for the wire to cut into
even though the wood
core shrinks after the coil has been completed.
you
If
use enameled wire, simply fasten one end to the rollingpin with a tack, near
its
end, and have an assistant turn
the pin while you guide the wire on to
it
closely and
you reach the other end then secure the ware with another tack and cut it off, leaving about 12 neatly, until
;
inches for connections.
more
difficult to
The
bare wire will be a
wind than the enameled
wire, as
little it
will
be necessary to keep each turn from touching the adjacent turn by winding a thick thread, or thin cord, in
between the wire as thread on at the
Even though ter
this
is
shown
in Fig. 316,
winding
this
same time that you wind the wire. requires some patience, it is much bet-
than winding the tuner with the ordinary cloth insu-
lated wire
and then attempting
to scrape bare the strip
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGkAPH OUTFIT along which the sliders run.
wound, give adds to
its
it
239
After the tuner has been
two more coats
of shellac (this not only
appearance, but helps to keep the winding in
ROLLING-PIN
Fig. 3 1 7,
— A Home-made Tuning-coil or Tuner. Fig. 316. — How to wind Thread between the Turns of Wire Fig. 315.
if
Bare Wire
is
used.
Fig. 317.
Prepare
Fig. 318.
How
Fig. 319.
Use
place),
Two End
Pieces like This.
the Sliders should be cut and bent. this
Form
of Binding-post.
then cut off the handle ends of the rolling-pin.
Two
end pieces 2f inches square and f-inch thick, with J-inch notches cut out of two corners (Fig. 317), should
now be prepared and screwed
cylinder, to support
it
and the
to the ends of the
slider rods.
The
rods
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
240
should be of brass of the size marked in Fig. 315, and two l^-inch holes should be drilled through each near
one end, and one other
The
end.
hole through each near the
|^-inch
rod can be procured
machine shop, and you can
also get
almost any
at
the holes
drilled
there for a few cents.
The
sliders
round
off
one end
end into a square rod,
made
Cut two pieces
sheet brass. 318,
should be
of thin
of the size
of each,
sleeve, as
but very springy
shown
and then bend the other
shown, to
fit
over the slider
and bend the rounded end so that
make
against the tuner and
contact with
should have another very slight bend
rounded end
it
it.
made
form a spring that
face as shown, so as to
in Fig.
will bear
Each
slider
in its
upper
keep the
will
in perfect contact with the wire.
When
them on
to the
rods and screw the rods to the end pieces with
small
the sliders have been bent properly, slip
round-head screws.
enameled
wire, the
enamel must be scraped
along the path of the used, the shellac sliders with
the tuner has been
If
slider,
and
wound
off carefully
bare wire has been
if
must be removed from the path
sandpaper.
The
with
sliders
of the
must make good
contact both with the square rod and the wire winding, or the wireless outfit will not operate.
Fasten a one-hole binding-post such as
is
shown
in
Fig. 319 in the two remaining holes in the rods, and fasten
shown.
an ordinary binding-post to one end piece as Fasten the end
of the wire
winding to the
last-
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT mentioned
post,
and the apparatus
will
The proper connections
stallation.
241
be ready for
in-
marked
in
are
Fig. 315-
The Fixed Condenser. edge
of electricity,
the part
such
a
it
would be hard
played by the big difference
received that
it is
Unless one has a
condenser in
knowl-
fair
him makes
to explain
however,
;
the strength of
necessary to use one.
—
to
it
the signals
When
a micro-
Cut 2 PIECES OF CARDBOARD AND 21 SHEETS OF WRITINGPAPER Like this
Fiti. 320.
.2*-
Fig. 321.
Fig. 322.
Figs. 320-322.
— Details of a Home-made Fixed Condenser.
phone detector is used, a second condenser must be wired up in connection with it as shown in the wiring diagram (Fig. 326).
The
materials
required are a few sheets of
which can be procured from any
florist,
tin-foil,
some sheets
good writing-paper, cardboard, and some ordinary tire Cut as many sheets
of
in Fig. 320, of the size tin-foil
cardboard and paper as
is
of
tape.
specified
shown, and the number of pieces
of
indicated in Fig. 321 of the shape and size shown.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
242
Begin building up the condenser by placing one
of the
upon a flat surface; upon this lay a the paper, then on this place a sheet of the tin-
pieces of cardboard
sheet of foil
with the tab projecting at the
end; over this lay
left
another sheet of the paper, and then place another sheet
on top
of the tin-foil
the right end.
the tab projecting at
this with
of
Continue
up the condenser
to build
this
way, reversing the tab on the alternate layers of
foil
(Fig. 322)
in
tin-
have been used.
until all of the sheets
Over the top sheet of paper lay the second piece of cardboard. Cut two pieces of insulated wire 12 inches or so in length, bare one end of each, run them through the ends of the cardboard top, and give them a couple of twists (Fig. 322); then carefully press together the projecting
tabs
on the
tin-foil,
and wind the bared ends
of the wires
around them as shown on the right
end
in Fig.
By
323.
run-
ning the wires through the card-
board as directed, whatever strain
— The
FiG. 323.
is
Fixed Con-
denser
is
ering
as above with Bicycle
Tape.
it
completed by cov-
(See Figs. 325 and 326.)
...
minal wires
will
cardboard and not
.-.,
tm-roil.
ttt'i
the delicate •
i
i
With the terminal wires
in place
wrap the entire condenser with
ning
one end as shown
at
upon the tercome upon the
brousfht to bear
in Fig. 323,
turn partly over the previous turn.
tire tape,
begin-
and lapping each
One
of these con-
densers should be connected directly across the telephone receivers
as
shown
in
Figs. 325
and 326, and when
a
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT microphone detector
243
used, a second condenser should
is
be set in between the detector and the switch (Fig. 326). If
you have constructed the siUcon detector
do not care to use any not be necessary to
will
A will
and
the other forms described,
of
it
make
Potentiometer, but with a microphone detector you
require one.
purpose
Its
is
to regulate with great
precision the battery current in the receiving is
first
made
like the tuner, except that
instead of
two and
is
much
it
circtiit.
It
has only one slider
smaller (Fig. 324), and must
TO RECEIVEPS Also to
DAy-CELL
Fig. 324.
— A Home-made Potentiometer. (See Fig. 326.)
be
wound with German-silver
This wire ounces
inches long
not
be expensive to buy, as about two
be enough, and this
will
25 cents.
Wind
v/ill
wire instead of copper.
A is
amount
costs about
piece of a i|^-inch curtain- or rug-pole 8 of
ample
size for the cylinder.
thecylinder with a layer of No. 24 bare German-
silver wire, separating the
between as directed
turns with thread
wound
for the bare-wire tuner (Fig. 316).
in
In
the tuner only one end of the winding was connected to a
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
244
binding-post, but in of
the wire
making the potentiometer each end
must be attached
Give
to a binding-post.
6 WlBE Ae CSee Large DEXArt)
r^5Vt
^^ Switch
—
* r= Battery Where Silicon Detector is used A Potentiometer and Battery ARE NOT NECESSARY- (SEE
10
in
Scrifs-Parallcl'
TRANSMITTING SET
Receiving Set
Fig. 325.
Dry Cells
FlG.32a)
— Complete Wiring Plan — when a Silicon Detector
the coil a couple of coats of shellac, then slider similar to the
make
ones made for the tuner
;
is
used.
a rod and
screw the
rod in place to the end pieces and fasten a binding-post
The
to its end.
slider
must make good contact with
both the wire and the slider rod.
This
completes
the
receiving
instruments.
They
should be arranged upon a board or table in some such
manner
as
shown
in Fig.
300 and wired up as shown
Fig. 325 or Fig. 326, according to
With
which form
in
of detector
you should, be able to hear commercial companies for a distance of a hundred miles, with the proper aerial, and all amateur stations in is
used.
your
vicinity.
either receiving set
The arrangement
discussed upon page 248.
of the instruments
is
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT The Transmitting receiving
set, for
Outfit
nearly
all
Is
245
more expensive than the
of the instruments
have to be To MAST OP OTHER SupPOBt'
Kev --I
X
BATTERY
10
Receiving
Fig. 326.
ORV CELLS
Transmitting Set
Set
— Complete Wirino; Plan — when a Microphone Detector
purchased, as they are too complex to make. fit
IN SERlES-PARALLiL
is
The
used.
out-
consists of an mduction-coil (spark-coir), spark-gap,
battery, key,
The
and switch.
Induction-coil (Fig.
327) consists of a few layers,
usually three or four, of a large size of Insulated copper Batterv
Zinc-,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
246
many
a great
this is called
is
it
which to send out are
layers, of a very fine wire;
As
the secondary.
part of the chapter,
alone
many
turns, in
"
explained in the
first
necessary to have a spark with
The dry
wireless " waves.
cells
not capable of producing the right kind of
spark as their voltage
is
But by sending a
too low.
cur-
rent of a few volts' pressure through the primary of the coil
another current of quite high voltage will be induced
secondary
in the
;
in fact, the voltage will
jump
cause the electricity to
depending on the
be sufficient to
across a considerable gap, Coils are usually rated
size of the coil.
according to the length of spark they are capable giving.
The
rent, so
an hiterrupter
coil will
of
not operate on a continuous curis
used in connection with the
primary.
A will
I
-inch coil costs about $5,
send several miles.
A
and with a good
-|-inch coil
cheaper than the i-inch, while
its
is
aerial,
only a
sending radius
is
little
less
than one half as much.
The Spark-gap can be made by binding two battery /To
Sccondabv or
TO'SECONOADVOP'
Fig. 329.
zincs
shown
— A Home-made Spark-gap.
on the secondary terminals in
of the spark-coil, as
Fig. 328, or a simple frame
may be made
to
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT
shown
hold the zincs, as
in
Fig. 329.
If
you make a
shown
frame, set in a couple of screw-eyes as
247
for set-
screws.
The
may be
induction-coil
operated by dry
cells or a
storage battery.
A
Storage Battery
satisfactory
expensive in
is
and cheaper
cost,
first
but more
Sometimes
in the end.
a
good
second-hand one can be bought cheap at a near-by garage.
Dry
Batteries, or
dry
cells,
can also be obtained from a
garage, where they are discarded
an automobile
these are
;
The
the "wireless" coil.
dry
but
cells,
if
another
one next to
is,
it
all
ten
in
(Fig. 333), connect each five
parallel.
of
multiple (Fig. 333). to
complete set of
connection If
end
is
five cells
add more
five,
in series
is
cells (Figs.
known
cells
325
as series-
the zincs are joined together, also
all
carbons, the
and you wish
of the
one pair of end
of the other pair of
When
series,
cells in parallel, or 7nnltiple;
This form of connection
^^d 333).
cells
can be obtained, they should
connect the carbons
and the zincs
the
i-inch coil will require five
five
and then connect the end
all
too
connecting the carbon of each to the zinc
is,
that
weak to spark plenty good enough for
Instead of connecting
also be used.
that
still
when
as there
cells,
must
called parallel, or
are used in a series
you must add another be the
same
7ium.ber of
in each series.
The
dots
and dashes
of the telegraph
code are made on
'
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
248
The Wireless Key (Fig. 330), which makes the spark
jump
how
for a longer or shorter period of time according to
A
pressed.
good cheap key
costs about 50 cents,
a full brass key about $1.
As
the aerial
ceiving,
used alternately for sending and
is
some means must be employed
re-
for connecting
To Battcrv^
•TO-P«IMARV OF iNOUCTION-COIk
Fig. 330.
To SROUNO
— A Good Form of
Fig. 331.
— A Double-throw,
Double-pole Knife Switch.
Wireless Key.
the sending instruments and then in turn the receiving
instruments.
This
is
accomplished by
The Knife Switch shown
in
Fig.
331,
known
This
double- throw, double-pole kjiife switch.
as
a
will cost be-
tween 30 and 50 cents, according to where purchased. The connections are marked upon the illustration of the switch and are also shown upon the wiring diagrams (Figs. 325
and 326).'
By studying of
the diagrams you will find the manner-
connecting up
all
the instruments clearly indicated.
This should not be done ranged upon a board or
A
Good Arrangement
have them
in
until after they
table.
for the
have been
ar-
Figure 300 shows Instruments
your bedroom, and that
is
if
you wish to
where most boys
generally keep them so that they are always within easy
you haven't a desk or table in your room, you can construct one similar to one of those illustrated in reach.
If
— A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT Chapters
The
VI and IX.
idea
is
to place the instruments
Screw the base
where they can be operated handiest. each instrument to the table to keep
When
Operation of Instruments.
mitting set
box
spark-coil
buzz,
will
of
in position.
it
the key of the trans-
pressed, the vibrator on the
is
249
and a shower
of
end
of the
sparks will
jump across the gap between the zincs of the spark-gap. When the aerial and ground are not connected to the spark-coil,
rated
as
it
a
give a long spark (about
will
i-inch
coil),
enough; but when the
i
inch
provided the battery
aerial
is
if it is
strong
and ground are attached,
one to each secondary binding-post of the
coil,
—
it
will
be impossible to get a spark longer than ^ inch, as the aerial
and ground
will
be acting as a "capacity"; that
the coil will be carrying a "load."
If
is,
the coil gives a
good spark with the ground connection, but no spark at all when connected to the aerial, it shows that the insulation of the wire leading in from the aerial is defective This wire must be supported on insulators
somewhere. at every
pomt from
To Receive a
the aerial
Call.
If
down
to the switch.
two complete stations are erected
within a few miles of each other, one station should begin calling
the
other at
certain
times
previously agreed
upon, while the operator at the station called should listen
carefully
through his receivers, slowly moving
backward and forward the
sliders
on
sionally adjusting his detector until
calling him.
When
his tuner
and occa-
he hears the station
the station ceases calling, the receiv-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
250
ing operator should throw over his switch and answer.
Each
station should be designated by a call^ usually the
initials of
The amateur should
the owner.
not do things
haphazard way, but should become familiar with the
in a
regular practice used in commercial wireless
To
government and commercial
receive
must
know
of course
know who
stations
you
their calls in order to be able to
The
calling.
is
stations.
pamphlets containing
all
electrical journals advertise
the principal stations, which
can be purchased for lo or 15 cents.
To make a
Suppose
Call.
station
CGS
station
CMW, He
several
times and at intervals signs his
this:
proceeds to
CMW CMW
and then
CGS\
the letters
call
own
call
CMW
call,
like
followed by a slight pause,
then he repeats the operation, finally
ending by making the operator at
CMW,
wishes to
J,
which
CMW
is
When
the finish signal.
picks up the
call,
he does not
answer until he hears the J signal; then hearing nothing else, he knows definitely that the operator at CGS has stopped calling, has placed his switch in position for ceiving,
Two
and
is
waiting for him
(CMW)
re-
to answer.
Codes are used in " Wireless," the Morse code and
While there is not very much difference between the two, the Morse code is used almost entirely in this country and is the one you the Continental code (Fig. 332).
should learn.
The
do/(s
and dashes
of the
code
v/ill
be
heard through the receivers as short and long buzzes.
Adjust the
sliders
on the tuning-coil
until
the signals
^
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT
251
and adjust the sHder on the potenthe same way if you use one in your receiv-
are heard the loudest,
tiometer in ing
Do
set.
not regulate the latter
so that the current cell
have
from the battery
too strong, for
is it
a
too
little
Morse
it
is
better to
weak than so
strong: ^
Way
Good
to learn the Code
is
1... 'l.\
o
•
After the code has been
rized, a friend
may
can sc7id on the buzzer
•
;
take your turn sending
while he receives.
period,
well as the letters, should be -
rized, as
.
.
it
is
7^
J ^
'.ZZ.
J
Z'SL
.
memo-
-
punctuation and numerals. interested
in
_"3_
',
i
.1111.
3 A
.
a very great mistake to
Although any boy
'
^
7— JT.*
get a smattering of the alphabet and neo^lect the
^
".Z7S
as
—
•*
',",,]
and question mark,
—
n p
A good buzzer costs
In learning the code, the numerals,
—
l.
''J^^
about 25 cents.
comma,
h u
memo-
while you copy the message he sends
then you
f
— —
ordinary electric buzzer and one dry
"^"'
Q
to
connect your telegraph key with an
cell.
—
—
that the detector will not operate.
A
continental
A B
—
5 v 9
— The
yig. 332.
Two Wire-
"wireless" can successfully install and
Codes used
operate an outfit from the directions ^
m!!..^^ !f!^T ,r.n^ gencode L' is Morse
given, visit, if
it
will
be a very great aid to
possible,
for the use
some amateur
and purpose
station,
of the different
erally
used
in
in
this
country.
instruments will
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
252
be better understood and
from seeing them
While many
many
valuable
gained
ideas
in operation.
units are used in
Electrical Measurements, only three
by the amateur operator.
need be considered
These are the
volt,
the ohm,
and the a^npere. The Volt
is
the unit of electrical pressure,
The Ampere
Ohm
The
is
is
the unit of current strength, and
the unit of resistance.
The
latter
is
prob-
ably most readily understood by those not familiar with
Any
electrical work.
wire, sheet-metal,
conductor of
carbon-rod,
electricity,
such as
offers resistance just
etc.,
as the sides of a ditch offer resistance to water flowing
through that
ditch.
If
the ditch were
cement, the water would flow through
made it
of
smooth
more
readily
the sides were of rough projecting logs.
In the
same way some substances have low resistance
to elec-
while others have high resistance.
Silver
than
if
trical currents,
has the least resistance, copper comes next, iron has considerable,
much
and an
that
it is
alloy,
known
as
German
used for making resistance
other purposes where resistance
silver,
coils
has so
and
for
is
required (see Poten-
in a ditch
unless forced to do
iiometer).
Water so.
If
will not flow
the ditch
ran
down
the hillside, of course the
water would flow downhill in the ditch, and the steeper the
hill,
the greater the pressure would be.
way, electricity will not flow unless there
In the same is
a pressure
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT behind
it,
readily
it
and the higher the pressure
is,
as this
the more
{voltage),
will flow.
The ampere that
253
represents the broadness of the "ditch,"
the depth and breadth of the " stream of water," is
decidedly a differ-
ent quantity than the pressure
behind
it. Di-TS
A
2<,>
A
better understanding of
ampere
the volt and the
will DRY-CELLS WIRED
IN
"SERIES"
DRr-CElLLS WIRED
IN
SERIES-PARALLEL
5
be gained through
The ohm grasped when it work.
practical
readily
is is
learned
that about 150 feet of No. 18
copper wire has a resistance of
I
ohm.
Connection of Dry Batteries. Batteries, or,
speaking,
dry
connected in (also
more properly
known
cells,
series,
may
be
parallel
as multiple), or a
10
Fig. 333. of
combination
both
of
called series- parallel.
ways,
These
connections are described under Dry Batteries on page 333.
Now
for
and amperes. whole
set will
an application If
— The
Three Methods
Wiring Battery
Cells.
(Showing 5 cells and the voltage and approximate amperage obtained by each method.)
247, of
and shown
in
Fig.
the two units, volts
the cells are connected in series, the
have the combined voltage
of all the cells,
but the current in amperes will be only that of one cell
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
254
the cells are alike and uniform)
(if
are
connected
all
only one
while,
;
each dry
and 20 amperes,
cell is
five cells
333) would give 5 times
amperes.
If
be that of
in parallel, the voltage will
be equal to the combined amperage of if
the cells
but the current strength, or amperage,
cell,
example,
if
all
will
For
the cells.
capable of giving
1.5
volts
connected in series (see Fig. 1.5
volts, or
7.5
volts,
and 20
they were connected in parallel, there would
be no change like this in the voltage, which would
main
1.5 volts
or the voltage of a single
cell,
re-
but the cur-
rent strength would be 5 times 20 amperes, or 100 am-
peres (Fig. 333). It is
not
difficult to
cells in series-parallel.
determine the result of connecting In Figs. 325 and 333 there are
ten cells connected in series-parallel, five cells in each of
two
series.
but
when
Each
and 20 amperes,
the two sets are connected parallel, the com-
bined output will
set will give 7.5 volts
will
be 7.5 volts and 40 amperes, which you
understand from the examples given.
borne in mind, however, that while a dry as
high as
amount
20 amperes by
test,
this
is
It
must be
cell will
give
an excessive
draw from it and would exhaust it Four or 5 amperes is as much as in a very short time. should be used, and if more than this is required, the As mentioned cells must be placed in series-parallel. before, each series of a series-parallel combination must of current to
contain the same of three
number
of cells.
For instance, a
set
cannot be put in parallel with a set of four, for
A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT the voltage of the four set
three
set,
and
it
set
and
set
in time exhaust the four set.
ordinary spark-coil requires considerable current,
pays to lessen the heavy burden on the battery by
using two series in parallel.
each
greater than that of the
and a current would flow from the four
through the three
The
is
255
series,
but
Four
five are better.
cells
may be used
for
About
show
the best kind of
for a
neighborhood
boys, a boys' club, or a school organization to give in
of
is
one
which each boy can do a special act or "stunt."
It
may
be an exhibition of magic-lantern views, a sleight-
of-hand performance, panorama or puppet show, boxing-
match, or one of an endless variety of entertaining
acts.
The strong man, magical mortar,
boy with a wonderful
and ventriloquist
acts described in this
voice, crack-shot,
chapter are easy to prepare.
Sam Dow,
the strong
man
(Fig.
334),
should wear a
long-sleeved shirt with the shoulders and sleeves padded
out to form large calves of his legs
muscles, ;
if
this
and should
pad the
padding throws the muscles
out of their natural positions, so
For the great
also
much
the better.
act of
Holding out a Chair upon which a
Boy
is seated,
you
will
need an old seatless chair or a box with the ends
knocked out and two uprights and crosspieces nailed to Drape the chair or box with it for a back (Fig. 335). a sheet or a piece of cloth of any kind large 256
enough
to
FOR A
Fig. 334.
BOYS'
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
— Sam Dow, " The Strong
257
Man/' holding a Seated Boy
at
Arm's
is
held
Length.
hang down
to the floor all
around when the chair
out at arm's length (Figs. 334 and 336), leaving the seat
opening uncovered.
Next get a pair
of short trousers,
stuff the legs, fasten a pair of stuffed stockings
to the knees,
fit
the feet into a pair of shoes,
and then fasten the legs in
Fig. 336.
seated
to the chair, as
The boy who
is
upon the chair stands
in the seat
shown
to appear to be in
the
opening
with the waist of the false trousers
fastened and concealed under his coat (Fig. 334).
While the chair stands on the rests
on
his knees, but
when
floor,
the boy ^ ^^' ^^^*, Framework
the strong
•^
man
of Chair.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
258
grasps the back of the chair with his hand and com-
mences
boy slowly
to Hft, the
the position
Two
arises to his feet, taking
shown by the dotted
lines in Fig. 334..
attendants should carry the chair on to the stage,
and the
"
seated
"
boy should hold on lift
and
to the sides
his feet so as to give the
boys an actual load to carry
Sam Dow
After
in.
has
held the chair by each hand,
and then by one audience
will
with laughter
finger, the
be convulsed if
the chair
allowed to remain in the
is
air
a few seconds after he has
upon
released his hold
A Fig.
336.
—The
Draped Chair with
False Legs * Attached.
away
"
ance
of this kind.
the trick in
it.
great deal of additional
fun Can always be furnished t to the audience by givmg j.
i.i
some such manner
•
^^
1
•
after a perform-
The famous
Make
Dumb-bell Lifting Feat must not be overlooked. the
2000-lb.
dumb-bell like that
preparing each end
out
shown
Make
curtain-pole or iron pipe;
struck by the strong
man
Fig.
337,
two barrel-hoops crossed
of
at right angles with the cross-piece
center (Fig. 338).
in
A
fastened in the
the handle out of a piece of if
the latter
to
is
used,
it
show the audience
can be that
it
FOR A really is
made
BOYS'
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
Fasten the ends of the handle in
of iron.
A.
holes bored through cross-pieces
with cloth, then on top of this place
Cover the hoops
enough padding
to
— How
Fig. 338. the
259
Ends
are
Constructed. Fig. 337.
— The Strong
Man's
Heavy Dumb-bell.
fill
out the flattened portions and
make them
perfectly
round, and cover the padding with black cloth. the handle black and letter the weights
Paint
upon the ends
with white paint.
A
couple of boys should drag the dumb-bell on to the
stage, then
by
Sam Dow
should demonstrate his strength
upon
lifting
it
with each hand, holding
balancing
it
on end upon his head, lying down upon
back and
lifting
teeth
by means
handle.
it
with his
of
feet,
a piece
of
and
it
lifting
it
his chin, his
wath his
rope tied around
the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
26o
The
man may
strong
demonstrate his ability as a
juggler by
— croquet
Juggling with Heavy Balls
or bowling balls
covered with silver or black paper, and he should intro-
duce as a special attraction Bonehead, the
which
man
with a head of solid ivory, upon
can be dropped without any
500-lb. cannon-balls
apparent
effect.
must be used
Two
balls
in this stunt
basket-ball for one,
of
exactly the
same
size
— an association foot-ball or a
and a large bowling
for the
ball
you can get them, otherwise use a croquet ball and a rubber ball of the same size. Cover the balls with black paper or tin-foil to make them
other are just the things
if
look as nearly alike as possible.
Sam Dow allow
should
first
pick up the heavy ball and
upon the stage floor to let the audience solid then he must pick up the rubber ball were of the same weight and with an aptoss it into the air so that it will land upon
to crash
it
see that
it is
as though
it
parent effort
;
the head of Bonehead. as soon as
it
bounces
Sam Dow
off of
should catch the
Bonehead and
toss
side of the stage out of view of the audience.
ing sound should be
made
make
it
to
one
side.
The
A
to
one
crack-
the instant the ball strikes
Bonehead, and a louder crashing noise when throws
it
ball
Sam Dow
strong man's stunts always
a big hit.
The Magical Mortar (Fig.
339).
Get a sugar
barrel
from your grocer and a packing-case about 30 by 30 by
FOR A 40 inches
in size at a
struct the mortar.
them
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
dry-goods
If
store,
261
out of which to con-
the barrel has wire hoops, fasten
wooden hoops, staves with small nails. Knock out barrel and saw away part of one side,
to the staves with small staples
;
if
them to the bottom of the shown in Fior.
fasten
the as
little
of
one end
the
barrel
to
of
A
the box for end
fit
of in
set
end
inside of the
box
(Fig.
339);
(Fig. 339)
hoops
its
a
— v"^
and cut aw^ay a
340,
B
BOYS'
and fasten {D,
Fig.
340) to the box sides.
Make
the bearing
blocks
as
shown
Fig. 339.
— The Magical Mortar. Fig. 340. — How the Barrel Cut. Fig. 339.
at
is
C(Fig. 339) and tack a piece of cloth over
end
Cut a 20-inch opening
in
B and
to the
one side
edges of the box.
of the
box for a door
(see dotted lines, Fig. 339).
The Professor exhibiting the mortar must have two assistants,
box,
No.
and No.
i
2 to
to operate the
wait upon him.
The Wonderful Hat
Trick, the
an old derby, fedora, or straw
mortar from within the
For
hat, a duplicate of
has been placed inside of the mortar, and in of
the
audience tear
it
take
professor should
which
full
view
into bits, then put the pieces
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
262
bag
into a paper bag, throw the
into the mortar, and
shoot the hat from the mortar in a whole
Of course
as the mortar
throws out the
bag
in the
after
The mortar cans
duplicate
having
hat,
it,
first
placed
i
it
of the torn hat.
charged from the
is
by having some one a
discharged assistant No.
removing the pieces
standing behind
"
is
condition.
nail
keg "powder
and the report
is
produced
sheet-iron with
strike a piece of
hammer. Other Mortar
dog
in the
mortar and
of a string of sausage, in a similar
The
Stunts. fire
may
professor
place
a
out his "remains" in the form
and transform
sorts of things
all
manner.
Assistant No.
2
should wear a false-face in order to
be prepared for
The Professor's Final Exhibition.
"gun powder,"
Having run out
of
the professor sends assistant No. 2 for
more, and after he has gone, moves the mortar to one side of the stage in such a position that assistant No.
can crawl out through the opening in the
i
The
side.
professor no sooner turns around to the audience than
there
is
the sound of a terrific explosion (strike a piece
of sheet-iron with a
hammer), and what appears
the assistant's body
is
thrown upon the
to be
stage, with
its
head, arms, and legs dismembered.
The
professor
"powder," then
mourns the thinks
announces that he
will
of
loss of his assistant
the
put the
magical
man
mortar
and and
together again.
FOR A
He
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
BOYS'
members
gathers up the
263
of the body, places thern
mortar, goes out and rolls a barrel of
in the
powder
"
"
moving the mortar back to the center of the stage, loads and discharges it. Instantly the assistant jumps forth whole and very much alive. Of course he crawls into the box, through on to the stage, and
after
the hole in the side, while
is
it
over
at
one side
of the
stage.
Make
Dummy
the
Assistant,
thrown
in at the
time of
the explosion, out of old clothes, ripping off the sleeves
and legs
of a coat
and pair
Make
part with newspapers.
upon
of trousers
a stuffed head, and fasten
a false-face similar to the one
it
and stuffing each
worn by the
assist-
ant so the heads will look exactly alike.
great
success
front
in
in
curtain
this
voice,
are
proved a
He
an amateur vaudeville.
curtain stretched
a
of
back of
boy with a wonderful
the
Falsetto,
stands
across the stage, and
four assistants,
— two
boys,
one with a bass, the other with a tenor voice, and two
Your
voice.
you out
At the
one with an
girls,
first
sisters will
in this
the
alto,
left
verse
probably
unseen part of
of
the
the other with a soprano
stage
be
of the
the
willing
to
help
performance.
young
vocalist sings
a song in panto7ni7ne, while the as-
sistant with the tenor voice stands directly
behind him
on the other side of the curtain and does the actual
Responding
singing. certain
to
receive,
to the
Falsetto
applause,
bows,
— which
he
is
walks over nearer
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
264
the
center of the
second verse
in a
he moves a
little
his
voice
sings
changes
the fourth
stage,
and goes through with the
soprano voice
for the
;
third
farther over to the right, to
verse
bass; and at
and here
an alto voice he
in
extreme
the
verse
right
of
the
stage.
With
a
little
practice a
boy
will
proper expression to the mouth
you
will find that this act will
;
be able to get the
and when well done
make one
of the biggest
hits of the show.
The Ventriloquist who throws his voice into the mouth of a doll in such a way that it sounds to the audience as though the doll were actually speaking
always a good
is
entertainer. It is
make
ter to
A
a simple mat-
Ventriloquist's
Doll (Fig. 341), and
if
you haven't the power of
throwingyourvoice
and talking without moving your lips, you can obtain just about as Fig.
341.— The
Ventriloquist operating the
Speaking Doll.
good
having
results
an
by
assistant
behind a curtain back
FOR A
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
BOYS'
265
do the talking while you operate the
of the doll
doll's
head and mouth.
Make
the head framework (Fig.
and buy a
strips,
C
<^\
inches
long,
E5
inches
long,
and
F
inches
false-face for the face.
\6
A
and
A
long. Fig. 343.
B
between
C,
strip
2[^
Fasten the end of
Cut
B
4 inches long,
and
342) out of i-inch
Fig. 342. for
and center
of Ventrilo-
quist Doll.
E upon B and C
— The Doll's False-face. Fig. 344. — Complete
Fig. 343.
Cut
(Fig. 342).
— Framework
Head
the false-face as
Framework
shown
Body.
in
Fig.
of DolTs
343, tack the upper portion to
A
strips
4
nail.
the
;
E
Fig. 344.
Fig. 342.
D
342 and 343), and the chin to strip pivot the end of and C with a between strips
at 1,2,
at
and
and
3 (Figs.
D
With mouth
a rubber
a
jaw
in place,
open and close
to a nicety.
Fasten
D
and a piece
of string
little
will
B
care in pivoting
band between
A
and
with a small ring tied to
its
D
(Fig.
F
B
and
342). C,
and
Set strip after
under side
of
between the lower end
of
end
fastening
lower part round as shown.
the
it
to the
in place whittle
the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
266
Cut the body
strips
H and
in length, the foot blocks
the shoulder cross-piece
/
344) 30 inches 6 inches long, and
(Fig.
/ and K G 15 inches
Nail the
long.
pieces together as shown, and fasten a barrel-hoop to
H and
strips
I2X L\ bore a hole
center of
in the
G
F
to turn in. enough for the neck strip With the framework prepared it is a simple matter to put a suit of clothes upon it and stuff it out with rags
large
Paste paper across the eye-openings
and newspapers.
and paint the pupils with water-colors back
of
build out the
;
the head with paper and cover
Fasten a collar and necktie around the
it
with cloth.
neck and
doll's
a pair of stuffed gloves in the ends of the sleeves for
Pin up the
hands.
tails of
the coat, so you can reach
the end of stick F, and slip your finger through the cord
jaw-manipulator.
Prepare a conversation to carry on with the several songs for to
talk
entirely
with him.
upon how
head and jaws time
him
with the
doll, select
and request your audience The success of this act depends to sing,
well the ventriloquist manipulates the
of the doll
talking
and keeps the movements
assistant.
If
there
is
in
enough
space behind the curtain for the assistant to walk from side to side of the stage, the ventriloquist
may
carry the
doll about.
Willie Shute, the crack shot of the world, shoots portraits
upon
audience.
targets,
an act
which
will
interest
any
FOR A
BOYS'
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
The Targets are easy to prepare. pieces
fresh
grocery
of
store.
(Fig. 345)
267
For these get some
heavy manila wrapping-paper Sketch
upon one
a
simple
outline
of
the
at
a
head
sheet, then get a piece of small brass
tubing (an old gas-burner
will do)
and
file
one end to a
Fig. 348.
Fig. 346.
Fig. 347.
Fig. 345-
— The Outline of the " Portrait shot out by " Willie Shute." — The Reverse of the " Portrait showing the Paper Strips the Holes. Fig. 347. — The Blank Paper which the Audience " Willie Shute." Fig. 348. — Blunderbuss made "
Fig. 345. Fig. 346.
"
over
first sees.
for
sharp cutting edge.
Lay
the sheet upon a piece of lino-
leum, and, with the tubing as a punch and a
hammer
to
punch out holes along the sketched outline (Fig. 345). Lay this punched sheet upon another sheet of the same kind of paper and mark the location of each hole, then cut away all except enough to cover the holes. Tack the punched sheet upon a wooden frame, strike
it,
"
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
268
stretching the paper as tight as possible, then fasten the cut-out portion of the second sheet over the back of the
Make
holes with small paper strips (Fig. 346). portraits, also write out the
whom you
ence
on which
names
of a
few
several
of the audi-
expect, and for a final stunt have a target
to shoot the
words
The frames should be
"
Good Night
!
row upon a
set in a
table
and
be surrounded by draperies to conceal the assistant be-
hind them.
from
The
thrown upon the targets
light should be
in front, to prevent the holes
from showing as a
result of shadows.
Willie Shute announces that he will shoot the portrait of a
boy upon the
aims
at the target
As
trigger. off the
first target,
then with a small gun he
and commences
fast as the trigger
to
cock and pull the
snaps the assistant tears
paper backing, beginning at
A
(Fig. 346).
The
audience will see nothing but a blank piece of paper first
(Fig. 347), but as each hole
up black
in
one
A
fastening a tin funnel upon the
you haven't a toy gun, you can a stick and attach some kind of trigger If
a clicking sound.
Program Board upon which
your performance long and
show
shot.
make
12 Inches
will
(Fig. 348) an entire portrait can be
whittle one out of that will
it
gun
of a toy
made
uncovered
With
(Fig. 345).
A Blunderbuss made by end
is
at
by 18
C and
is
shown
In size,
D8
to
announce each act
In Fig. 349.
Make the board
and cut strips^ and
inches long.
of
B
\6 inches
Paint the board white
FOR A and
letter the
paint.
BOYS'
word
Cut the
'^
"
VAUDEVILLE SHOW
Program
"
269
across the top with black
7iu7iiber'' slips
4 inches by
19,
out of
cardboard, and letter the names of the acts upon them.
Hancv
this
board at
one side of the stage
where an attendant can reach to
it
easily
change the num-
ber
slips.
Have the boy who owns a print-
^
M.
sPROGRAM SAM DOW B
u Fig. 349.
— A Program Board.
ing-press
Print the Admission Tickets, with the type set up in the
form used
for theater tickets.
You may have your own moving
home by
pictures at
making
A Simple Machine such as shown consists
cardboard cyHnder with
of a
sides,
which
base
fastened
is
slots cut
mounted upon end
the
to
are
while the pictures of
This toy
in Fig. 350.
a
in its
wooden a
stick,
made on
strips
of
cardboard and represent a man, horse,
dog, or some other subject, in action,
drawn in just the would appear in a
positions in which
it
photographs
series of
The
taken in rapid succession.
strips of
pictures are placed, one at a time, inside of the cylinder close Fig.
350.— AMov-
ing-picture Machine.
it
is
sides
pivoted,
in,
then the cylinder .
,
around by means
,
.
,
01 the stick
and by looking through the
you see a number
ever the figures
upon
facing
the sides and
to
of
is
whirled •
i_ upon wnicn i
slots, in
the
men, horses, dogs, or what-
may be, moving
just as they
would appear
the screen at a regular moving-picture show. 270
MOVING PICTURES
271
The Wooden Base for the cardboard cylinder
make
thing to
first
about
inch
-^
Upon
(Fig. 351).
thick
describe
is
the
a piece of board
a
5J inches in diameter with a compass, or if you haven't a circle
compass, hunt up a jug or china saucer of this diameter and
With
out around
its
saw or
coping-saw
a
rim.
mark
a scrollwill
it
be
easy to follow the circle in sawing out the base, but with a large
saw
Fig. 352 it
will
be necessary to cut corners of the
off first the four
board close to the
circle,
then the
eight corners thus produced, then the
sixteen corners, and
until
it
is
as
so
on
round as you can get
Fig. 351.
— The
Base
for the
Cardboard Cylinder. Fig. 352.
— The
Spool
and
Pencil which are glued to the Base.
it,
and then
finish off
the edge with a chisel and sandpaper.
Bore a ^-inch hole through the center
of
the base,
then get a lead-pencil 6 inches long (or whittle a stick to
same size) and three spools, two of which will fit The holes tight upon the pencil and the third loose.
the
in spools of different shapes vary a trifle in size, so prob-
ably you will find that mother or sister has just what
you want. spool it
A
Push the upper end
of the pencil
through
\ inch projects (Fig. 352), cover the spool with glue, and stick it through
so that about
and the top
of
the hole bored in the base (Fig. 351); then press spool
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
272
A
against the base until
it
is
on to the pencil and glue spool
glued
Con
fast.
to the
Slip spool
end (Fig.
B
354).
For the Cylinder get some light-weight cardboard that will
be easy to
tf-i|-
cut,
mark out
a piece 3^ inches wide and If-
Sl.
-|fM
'
3"
cu
— Pattern for Cardboard Cylinders.
Fig. 353.
inches long (Fig. 353), and mark off the ten slots at equal distances apart. Cut out the cylinder with a pair of i6-|
shears or a sharp knife, then tack
its
lower edge to the edge of the wooden
shown
base, as
in Fig. 354,
and glue
the ends of the cardboard together.
The Clown and Ball Pictures (Fig. 355) are
shown four
pieces, as are
The Circus Horse and Hound Pictures (Fig.
356).
Each
set
together end to end will just
when make
joined a strip
long enough to reach around the
inside
of
drawn full do will be piece of transfer
the size,
cylinder.
so
all
you
them
They will
are
have to
upon a transparent paper and then them upon a piece of heavy to trace
off
paper or light-weight cardboard, plac-
FiG.
354.
— The
Com-
pleted Moving-picture
Machine.
MOVING PICTURES ing the ends
continuous
A, B, and
strip.
To
C
273
together so
as
to
form a
hold the strips in place against
number of small brads into the top of the base just far enough away from the edge so the strips will slip between them and the cylinthe sides of the cylinder, drive a
der (Fig. 351).
To operate the Toy, hold
it
by the middle spool with
one hand and make the cylinder revolve by turning the
bottom spool with the other hand (Fig. 350). The Automobile. Figure 357 shows a modern adaptation of an old form of optical illusion. Give the book
Fig. 357.
— Give the
Book a Circular Motion and see
a circular motion, at the
the Automobile Run.
same time looking
steadily at
the center of the picture, and the wheels will immediately
appear to revolve and the machine to run.
By
cutting out a side view of an automobile from a
magazine or newspaper advertisement and mounting
it
Fig. 355.
— Moving Picture Set No.
i.
Fig. 356.
— Moving Picture Set No.
2.
274
J
®
*•
K •c
rhe Clown and
Bi
hall.
^ ff Adapted from
M lybridc/e's
*'The Circus Horse and Hound." 275
"Animals
in Motion.'
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
276
upon a piece disks of the
of cardboard,
same
size as the
then preparing two circular
wheels with a series of con-
upon them
shown in Fig. 357, and pasting these over the printed wheels, you will have this optical illusion in a more convenient form to handle
centric circles inscribed
Fig. 358.
— The
Revolving Wheels.
The
as
inner wheel runs in the opposite
direction from the outer wheels.
and
in
such shape that you can carry
it
about in your
show to all your friends. Another interesting optical illusion is The Revolving Wheels shown in Fig. 358. By giving the book a circular motion and gazing at the center of pocket
to
;
MOVING PICTURES the
Illustration the outer
rapidly, just as those of the
wheel that in
will turn
If
wheels
will
277
begin to revolve
automobile did, and the inner
very slowly in the direction opposite to
which the outer wheels run.
you own a pair
of
compasses, you will find this
tration very easy to lay out
cardboard.
The
upon a piece
of
illus-
paper or
inner circle should be described
first,
then a larger circle upon which to locate the centers of the outer wheels should be
—A
drawn with the same
center.
Gaze steadily at the center of the picture, draw the book up to your face, and the boys will appear to come together lower and raise the book in succession, and you will see a lively boxing-
Fig. 359.
match.
Boxing-match.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
278
and the radius
this larger circle will
of
be the proper
spacing for the centers of the wheels.
An
illusion of
interesting
an entirely different kind but no
is
The Boxing-match shown
in
for looking at this are printed
You may make motor
less
cycles,
The
Fig. 359.
below the
directions
illustration.
cards with pictures of automobiles,
and aeroplanes
in similar positions, as
it is
easy to find side views of these machines in the adver-
tisements in magazines
;
then when you have mounted
these at the proper distance apart, you will have a set of
moving
pictures showing automobile
smash-ups airship
and motor cycle
— which are now common occurrences — and — which we probably witness
collisions
within a short time.
will
(TBr^
CHAPTER XV A SNOW BATTL
Here, boys, battleship
addition
is,
of
snow fight. A snow construction, really a snow fort, with the
is
in
a
turrets,
fighting-tops (Fig. to
A
make and adds little
to do,
new
idea for a
conning-tower,
This extra equipment
360).
greatly to the sport of a
carpenter work
and
all
may be done to the spot
The
pieces
may
is
snow
necessary, but this
is
sawing and a good portion indoors.
mast, and
funnels,
is
easy fight.
simple
of the nailing
then be carried
on which you are going to build the ship and
set in place.
The
central portion of the ship, directly below the con-
ning-tower and
known
as
The Central Station, requires a framework such as
shown
in
Fig.
Out
of
any boards you can get
similar
to
that
361.
make two frames
driving three or four
nails
clinching their ends.
The
diagonal strips, but this will
is
is
be held rigid enough
shown
in
Fig. 362,
through each corner and corners
may
be braced with
not necessary, for the frames
when embedded
in
snow.
Cut
two boards 3 feet 6 inches long for the cross-pieces 279
E
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
28o
and F, and enough boards to roof the top of the
Fig. 361.
On
same length with which
framework.
— Framework of the Central Station.
the site selected for the battleship set up the two
frames as shown in Fig.
E
of the
and
F between
nail roof
board
G
them
361
;
2 feet
fasten the cross-pieces
above the ground, and
in place; leave a
space of 22 inches
for the conning- to wer^
then roof the rest
of
the top with the boards
you have cut
for the
purpose (Fig. 361). If
there
is
plenty of
snow, Build
the
Hull
your battleship Fig. 362.
— Make Two Frames
like This.
on both
sides,
there
not
is
of
alike
but
if
enough
A SNO'V BATTLESHIP do
to
this,
281
stand the framework against the fence or wall
and build only one side. Figure 361 shows how the hull should be marked
snow with
out in the
bow and about
the
of
and by
taper from
inside
bow should be
the
of
stern about 4 feet from the framework.
illustration
built up,
The
from the central station framework, the
7 feet
inside
The
stern.
the sides converging toward the
a
shows the stern end this
you
will see
of the hull partly
how
the sides should
thick base to a thinner wall at the top.
The inside of the walls should be straight, so as not to make the inside space too small, but you will find it much easier to build the wall roughly and then finish
off
it
with a shovel afterward.
Set a barrel in the
A
bow
for
Torpedo Tube (Fig. 363), and
when
the sides have
reached a height of 30 inches, set the ends of a 4-foot
board
H, at
in
them
Fig. 363)
the
2 feet
forward of the central station (see
upon which
same height
set
to build
two or three boards into the
walls inside of the framework, at
conning-tower platform. to a
the forward turret;
/
(Fig.
363), for the
Build up the sides of the hull
height of 3 feet 6 inches, and inclose the framework
of the central station with a 5-inch wall of
ing a passage fore and (Fig.
363) wide
enough
wall above the hull a j_^
Cover the top
aft
snow, leav-
below cross-pieces
to crawl
through.
trifle.
of the central station
—
E and F Offset the
282
A SNOW BATTLESHIP The Superstructure Deck
283
— with enough snow
to hide
Build the wall of
the boards.
The Conning-tower 12 inches above the superstructure deck (Fig. 363), and that of The Forward Turret 12 inches above the sides hull
;
of the
build
The Midship Turret on to the side
of the ship.
The
shap-
ing of the conning-tower and turrets can be done with a
To
shovel or a shingle.
apparent height of the
lessen the hull,
bank
snow around the base (Fig. 363). The Mast should be about 1 1 feet long and can be made by splicing together
a
couple
or
curtain-
of
clothes-poles.
For the Fighting-tops
(Fig.
366)
take two barrel-hoops, fasten a piece 2-by-4
of
in
each
(Fig.
bore a hole in the center for the
mast
to slip
and
364),
o enousfh o through. Tack larcre
a 4-inch rim of cardboard
around the
hoops and cover the bottoms with
same material Wire pieces 366).
the
(Figs. of
and
365
broom-handle
Guns (Fig.
365).
The
fighting-tops should be supported
blocks of
wood
Figs. 364, 365, and 366. Construction of the
—
to the cross-pieces for
Rapid-fire
Fig. 364.
upon
tied or nailed to the
Fighting-tops.
trestletrees
— two
mast (Fig.
366).
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
284
Fasten the upper top lower one
2 feet
3 feet
below the masthead, and the
6 inches below that.
The Crosstree should be 2 feet long its center to the mast at /(Fig. 363).
Make or
a
Coach-whip Pennant
cloth to fly from
the
;
tie it
securely at
out of wrapping-paper
masthead, and to one of the
maststays, which should be fastened to the
masthead and
to the
ends of the crosstree,
fasten three or four
Paper Signal Flags (Fig. 363). Pictures of these flags, in color, may be found in an encyclopedia.
After rigging up the mast, run
it
18
inches into the wall of the conning-tower
and
tie
the ends of the maststays to stakes
driven into the snow.
Make
a Union Jack for the
bow
of the
ship and
A
National Ensign for the stern, and tack
them upon Fig. 367.
Framework of the Funnels.
make them
sticks for staffs.
The Construction of the Funnels is shown Unfasten four barrel-hoops and in Fig. 367. 12 inches in diameter,
3 feet 6 inches long.
and cut twelve
sticks
Nail the sticks to the inside face of
framework with heavy wrapping-paper. Place these funnels upon the deck as shown in Fig. 363, and pack enough snow around For their bases to hold them in position.
the hoops (Fig. 367), then cover the
A SNOW BATTLESHIP
285
Ventilators procure a couple of stovepipe elbows.
Stovepipe or pieces of fence-posts
may be
used for your
Main-battery Guns, two of which should be placed in
each of
Cut three 8-inch portholes
turret.
the sides
and make four depressions
hull for peepholes,
the
in
or recesses, as shown, for the
Secondary-battery Guns, which
may be
pieces of broom-
handle.
Figure 363 shows the interior of your ship while action. This illustration w^ill suggest
The Arrangement
of
Amunition Stores, the idea being
keep the main supply of snowballs in the central station
to
fill
in
— the
in baskets
magazifie
to
and boxes
— and from
these
the pockets and baskets in the turrets and on
the deck.
The Captain hand, will
of the Ship,
command from
whom
the conning-tower (Fig. 363),
and must appoint the other men on the forward deck, station,
and
aft.
He
you must choose before-
in the
to their respective places
forward
turret, the central
boy torpedo
also selects the
boats.
For a Naval Battle there should be at least two ships built with broadsides opposite (Fig.
you can have a land and naval
363).
battle
prefer to build a fort, but there will be battleships.
Rules
the
enemy
more fun with
Certain
must be observed
in
a
snow
any other boys' game, and the rules will differ
if
Of course
somewhat from those
fight, just
as
in
for a naval battle
of a snow-fort battle.
"
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
286
The main damage
object of this
game
is
to inflict as
much
upon the enemy's ship (nothing but snowballs being allowed), and to capture and sink the " torpedo boats." A battleship is sunk if its mast is knocked
when
A side,
as possible
to the ground.
it is
If
neither ship
badly disabled
necessary to discontinue action for any reason,
should be displayed by each
White Flag
of Truce
and during
this period of truce
work and
is
you can
all
set to
repair the ships.
The "Torpedo Boats" furnish the only means
of attack
Each side should have two of these two boys who must each wear a small flag stuck in his cap, as shown in Fig. 360. The " torpedo boats must not fire upon one another, but if the flag is knocked at close range.
—
from the hat
of
one boy and a
enemy reaches him
"
torpedo boat
before he can replace his
the
" of
flag,
he
game until torpedo boat," when an
is
considered captured, sunk, and out of the
his
side captures an enemy's
ex-
change may be
"
effected.
The paper-covered funnels, the fighting-tops, and the signal flags will be damaged the most and will have a fine battered appearance. These may easily be Repairs.
removed, carried indoors, and repaired in a few minutes. In this kind of
snow
fieht
Good Marksmanship counts for more than strength, and the small boy with an accurate aim as his big brother.
is
as valuable a
man
m^s.. CHAPTER X A COASTER A BOB-SLED
A
HOME-MADE
sled that
is
properly put together gen-
more subperhaps, but because the boy who has because
erally outlasts the store sled, not stantially built,
spent the necessary time to construct
and takes a pride
in
keeping
The Coaster shown in cutting
in Fig.
it
in
368
it
it
is
realizes
its
worth
good condition. is
simple to make, but
out the various pieces and putting them together
Fig. 368.
— A Home-made Coaster.
you must do the work carefully
in order to get the best
results.
Lay out the Runners by the pattern shown in Fig. 369. This has been marked off into squares, at the ends, to Measure off the total aid you in laying out the curves. length of the runner upon a i-inch or ij-inch board, 287
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
288
iirM-l
'
II
'
'
•
A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED
289
Cut the three Connecting Cross-pieces {A, Figs. 370 and 371) 12 inches long, 2 inches wide,
and i| inches thick and prepare
the ends of each as
shown
at
A
(Fig.
372); then cut
the six braces
B
(Figs.
370 and 371) as shown
m
Fig.
372, to
fit
the
mortises in the ends of
A.
Fig. 371.
Fig. 372.
— Con-
to
— Cut
to
the Crass-pieces
nect the Runners
and Braces
like This.
^^^^^"
Screw the braces the cross-pieces and the
37l),
like
then
(Fig.
SCrew
the
cross-pieces between
the runners.
They should be ^
one
from the front end, another
II inches
runners
inch below the top 7
—
inches from
the rear end, and the third halfway between the two.
Make
the Seat in two pieces (a wide board would be
likely to split)
There
are a
and screw the boards
number
of
forms
to the cross-pieces.
of
Sled Handles, any one of which
you may
use.
One
of
the sim.plest kind of handles consists of slots cut through
The slots 369 and 371. should be cut as described on page 142 (see Fig. 156). To make the handle shown in Fig. 368, cut two pieces the runners as
of 2
shown
in Figs.
broom-handle 28 inches inches square
;
nail
two
Ions:
and four wooden blocks
of the blocks to each runner,
then bore |-inch holes through the broom-handle pieces
and through the blocks and runners, and bolt the handles
290
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS Drawer-
in place with f-inch carriage-bolts 4 inches long.
such as are used upon the
pulls,
fronts
kitchen pantry drawers,
of
are another form of handles which
may
be used.
Bore a i-inch hole through the
bow ends
of the
piece
broom-handle
of
runners and cut a
them for The Foot-bar.
to
fit
in
you drive a nail through each end of the broomIf
handle, close to the runners,
prevent the
bow end
it
will
of the runners
from spreading. Paint your coaster with at least
two coats
You may
of paint.
yourself about the colors, but a
suit
good
combination would be to paint the runners yellow or green and seat
and handles red
want
to letter a
;
then
name upon
the
if
you
the seat,
on with black paint. Every one of you boys can own
put
it
A
Bob-sled, for there
difficult
about
is
constructing
and the material required FiG. 373.
— "Every
boy
can own a bob-sled."
nothing
is
one, inex-
pensive.
A
bob consists
of
two sleds
built
t
A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED
291
.
along the lines of a coaster, placed tandem, and connected with a plank long enough to hold three or more
boys (Figs. 373 and 374). The sleds must be built
first,
and as they are identical
in construction
The Four Runners may be cut out by the same pattern (Fig. 375).
The
pattern shows the curved ends
Fig. 374.
marked
— A Home-made Bob-sled. runners of the
off into squares, just as the pattern for the
coaster was shown, and one runner should be laid out first,
just as described for the other sled,
marked out from strong wood,
if
Make them
this.
possible, as the
wood, do not
to reenforce
fail
out of oak or other
bob-sled's
subjected to a great deal of strain. soft
and the others
If
them
runners are
you must use as
suggested
for the runners of the coaster.
For connecting the Runners and bracing them, cut six cleats
I
J inches thick,
2
inches wide, and 10 inches long
{A, Figs. 376 and 378), and buy twelve 2-by-2-inch iron angle-braces, such as are
ware
store.
shown
in
Fig. 377, at a hard-
Nail the runners to the ends of the cleats,
using three cleats for each sled and spacing them as
shown
in
Fig. 378,
and then screw the angle-braces
the runners and to the cleats (Figs. 376 and S?^)-
to
^^^
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
292
The Sled Seats 22 inches long out and screw them The Seat
of lo-inch boards
to the cleats.
of the Bob-sled
shown
In the illustration is a
2-by-io-inch plank 7 feet 6 inches long and the
bow
sled
and hinged
to the stern sled.
is
bolted to
Cut the two
A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED plank, block,
and sled
the bolt-head
and
293
putting a washer between
seat,
another between blocks
seat,
B
and
C
and a washer and nut upon the lower end.
The Seat
is
will rise
and
pendent
of
hinged at the Stern End so the stern sled fall
the
as
it
runs over uneven ground, inde-
bow sled. hard wood 2
D
Cut block
(Figs. 378
inches thick, 4 inches wide, and 381) out of and 10 inches long, and plane off the top edge as shown.
Get a pair
of 4-by-4-inch wrought-steel butts at a hard-
ware store for the hinges, and screw them
to
this block
plank seat with screws if inches long; then Connect the bow ends spike the stern sled to the block.
and
to the
of the
runners of the stern sled with the bottom of the
plank seat with or
Check-chains,
fastened to screw-eyes (Fig.
ropes,
378).
E (Fig.
Cut the Steering Foot-bar nail
it
to the runners of the
The Steering Lines
to its
bow
2^']'^)
sled,
and attach
ends (Fig. 374).
For Handle-bars cut the cross-bars inches long and screw
plank as
seat,
shown
and
20 inches long,
them
bolt pieces of
to the
F
(Fig.
2)1'^)
under side
20
of the
broom-handle to their ends,
in Fig. 374.
The Seat should have a Cushion, and an old carriage, wagon, or boat cushion top of the plank
may
may
be remodeled for
or the
be padded with excelsior or straw
and then covered with a piece 378).
it,
of oilcloth or carpet
(F'^ig.
The padding should be spread out evenly and be
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
294
secured to the plank by stretching a piece of cloth over it
and tacking
fore putting
to the
it
edges of the plank with cord
be-
on the top covering (see directions for up-
holstering on page
ii6); then the covering should be
pulled tight over the padding and tacked to the under
Tufting the cushion every 4 or 5 inches, by driving nails through the covering and pad-
side of the plank.
ding into the plank,
will
prevent the padding from
ing and becoming lumpy (Fig. 374). Two Coats of Paint applied to all the give the sled
covered will
hill
its
shift-
woodwork
will
finishing touches, then, with a snow-
or slippery toboggan-slide to coast upon, you
be ready to give
new home-made
bob.
all of
your friends a ride upon your
PARTE Spring and
Han(
Summer
Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School.
A Model Aeroplane Meet
of the Calumet Aero Club.
'f7if^F=W^il^ B 1.^
^=^
r^
I
1 I
I
CHAPTER XIX MODEL AEROPLANES
Boys cannot study well while some one or something from without is attracting their attention, and it is this very condition of things which makes indoor work difficult have arrived.
after the first signs of spring
As soon
as
Weather Man throws over the switch marked " balmy weather," Mother Nature takes heed and sends forth her the
messengers
in
their
little
"
airyplanes
"
to
arouse a
greater activity in every living creature, and to
awaken
each growing thing from
winter sleep.
We
all
airygrams," which
reach
us
receive
the
call
in
the
"
its
through the gentle breezes, and through the fragrance from the fields and forests which fill our nostrils and ;
each
little
squealing or chattering animal, and each chirp-
ine or scolding bird, seems either to invite us to
out into the open and work, or to so.
Then
mock
come
us for not doing
there are the brooks and the streams, whose
jumping fish remind us that the " fishin' " is fine, and the old "swimmin"' hole, the sight of which tempts us to take an afternoon off and go " swimmin'." So it is no wonder that, with all these invitations thrust upon us at
L
297
;
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
298
one time, we become it
difficult to
and that you boys
restless,
keep your minds upon your
to these calls of
Nature that
all
studies, for
within us
is
find it is
responding.
But the days are getting longer now, and soon there will
be lots of time before and after school to devote to
outdoor work and play, and, with dition
and the spring vacation
have very
little
all
day Saturday
in sight,
in ad-
you fellows
will
reason to complain.
Since the making and flying of model aeroplanes has
developed into one of the greatest of pastimes for boys, has been added to the
list
it
of boys' sports, and, although a
model aeroplane requires calm weather rather than the breeze necessary for kite flying, aeroplane flying seems to
belong to the spring of the year, for
first
opportunity to try
out
the
it
furnishes the
models which have
been devised and constructed during the winter months so the
warm weather of each year is probably known hereafter as aeroplane time, as
first spell of
destined to
be
well as kite, marble,
A
and top time.
model aeroplane contest
is
as
much more
ing than a kite contest as an automobile race horse race, and what makes
fascinat-
is
than a
more interesting than kite flying is probably the fact that it requires more skill to build a light and evenly balanced model, and that a successful flight depends upon the model itself, rather than the guiding hand of its flyer, as in kite flying. The Lengths of Flights have been limited on account of it
the lack of a long-running light-weight motor, but the dis-
MODEL AEROPLANES
299
tances covered have gradually been Increased from
60 odd
feet,
one
of the first records
made
Courtesy of " The
some
several years
CMcago Daily News.'
Junior Aeronautics. Ideas which are more Ingenious than Praiseworthy. (See details in Chapter
XX for
a safe
2iT\d
practical
"
boy-carrying
"
machine.)
h
350 feet, recently obtained. boys have succeeded in developing bet-
ago, to a distance
This shows how ter
of
over
and better models, through the discovery
of
more
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
300
working material, better forms and propellers, and improved methods for satisfactory
for the planes installing the
motive power and for joining together the various parts J of the models. Junior Aero Clubs have been organized in schools in branches of the in
many
Young Men's
and
Christian Association,
parts of the country, and
very probable,
it is
if
the model aeroplane increases in popularity at the rate at
which
it
has during the past few years, that fully two
thirds of the boys of
America, as well as a large propor-
tion of their English cousins,
and the boys
in all other
countries in which aeronautics are holding the public's attention, will
soon become enthusiastic builders of model
aeroplanes.
The Chicago Calumet High School boys an aero club
in the
organized
winter of 1910, and, under the tutor-
age of Mr. Arthur Booth, their instructor
and
in
many
mechanical
drawing,
have
models.
The photographs opposite page 297 show the club members with their home-made
some
of
designed
built
successful
models, also the start of one of their aeroplane races, while two of the photographs opposite page 302 show other views of several of their models.
Model Aeroplane Meets.
Each aero club has
rules for its contests, but they rially.
corder,
do not
its
own
differ very mate-
—
There are usually three judges a starter, a reand a head official to govern the race, and it is
—
generally stipulated in the rules that
all
models
shall be
|
MODEL AEROPLANES the product of the boys entering them. it is
301
some
In
races
required that the models start from the ground
others
in
;
they must be released from the hand without
giving them any forward motion
;
in a third
form of race
they must be launched from a table top, chair, or bench
;
and for a fourth way they are launched from the hand and may be given as much of a push as the contestants Sometimes a dozen models are started off at one wish. time, but usually the
number
is
limited to five or
six, to
avoid collisions.
The
lengths of the flights are figured from the starting
line to the points at
The winner
which they
of a race is usually
first
touch the ground.
awarded 10
points, the
and the holder of third In the races in which the machines place 3 points. start from the ground, the model which rises wathin the holder of second place
least
number
of feet
5
points,
from the starting
points,
and the one which
which
results in
line
10
scores
rises next best scores 5 points,
heavy handicaps for models capable
covering long distances, but slow in taking to the
of
air.
Three cups, each having a valuation of $100, were awarded last year by business men of New York City for the winners of the contests held under the auspices of the
Young Men's
of these
Christian Association.
was deeded with the condition that
The
first
be
won
it
three times in succession by a contestant before becom-
ing his property, the second was for the longest flight of the year,
and the third
for the
best-designed model
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
302
among
the winners of
all
have stimulated a desire their very best efforts,
in
These
the contests.
New York
prizes
boys to put forth
and have resulted
in
some
surpris-
ing records and an astonishing array of styles of models,
from careful reproductions
of the large successful flyers
forms which only boys' ingenuity could
to a variety of
produce.
The Three Types
of
Machines used
are the glider, or motorless model is
;
in
designing models
the inoiioplmie, which
constructed more or less along the lines of a bird; and Gliders
the biplane, or double-decked aeroplane.
may
be of either the monoplane or biplane type.
The it
is
glider
the best form for a boy to
is
the simplest and will enable
him
points to be observed in building
a
make
first,
as
to learn the
main
successful
flyer;
good glider, he can go a little farther and add a motor, and then he will be prepared to undertake the construction of some A number of sucof the more elaborate monoplanes. then, after he has succeeded in producing a
cessful biplane
models have been made, but so
far
none
has been produced which can equal the records of the
monoplane model.
They
are
usually not as stable a
machine, the greatest difficulty being that a very slight disturbance in the air will upset them and cause them to crash to
the earth, usually resulting disastrously,
if
not in total destruction.
The Support
of
an Aeroplane.
There are several funda-
mental principles which must be taken into consideration
33
O 'A
< .-J
"A
a
o
MODEL AEROPLANES in
designing an aeroplane, in order to
ride the air successfully.
303
make
so
it
will
it
necessary to so plan the
It is
wings, ox planes, that the center of the upward pressure
exerted upon them by the supporting air beneath will
come
of balance. The instant the center pressure shifts to one side, the planes tilt, with
at the ce^iter
of this
the result that the
To
upsets.
machine
loses
illustrate this action,
or cardboard
and drop
that as long as
it
its
take a piece of paper
You
from your hand.
it
remains
flat
and
equilibrium
floats,
it
will find
but the instant
the center of the air pressure beneath shifts to one side, the opposite edge drops, and the piece overbalances and
Cardboard
falls.
is
stiffer
and
will
keep
its
balance
longer than the piece of paper, as the air pressure
under
its
center of balance for a longer time.
If
is
held
you
let
a piece of cardboard glide out of your hand, you will
discover another factor which must be counted on; you will find that the forw^ard result,
end
is
forced upward, and, as a
the card instantly slips backward, then upsets and
drops to the ground.
This
is
caused by a change
in
the center of the air pressure, immediately the card starts to
move
forward, from the center of balance to a point
between that and the forward end. upset
is
This tendency to
neutralized by counterbalancing, or by adding
stability planes in
such positions as
will help to retain the
original center of balance.
A
Cardboard Bird Glider
of the
body
of a bird, as
may be
shown
fashioned on the lines
in Fig. 382.
Mark
out a
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
304
compass or the rim
circular piece of cardboard, using a of a small plate for the
purpose; cut a couple of wedge-
shaped pieces Seauno Wa
out
of the
of equal size
edge, leaving
the piece between for a
and turn over about
tail;
^ inch
of the
opposite the
and
stick a
edge directly tail,
as shown,
piece cut in
the shape of a head and
neck
in a slit
the
folded
made through edge.
front
The head should
have
some sealing-wax dropped Fig. 382.
-A Cardboard Bird Glider.
this can then be
^^^^^
j^
^^ ^j^^^
j^
weight;
used as a counterbalance, and be ex-
tended or pushed back into the body as
much
as
is
upward pressure upon the forward end. The bird should glide to the ground in a long, graceful curve; if it dives head first, you may know that the weight is too heavy, and that the head must be pushed closer to the body; while if it rises and then collapses, the head must be extended a little farther necessary
to
equalize
the
front.
A
Simple Monoplane Model
makes
is
shown
in Fig. 383.
a splendid form of glider as well.
This
Figure 384
shows the model without the planes, and Fig. 385 shows the details for the propeller.
MODEL AEROPLANES Use a The
|--inch or |-Inch
Center-pole,
center,
if
pine flagstaff for
and get one which
is split
which
possible, so the slot in
Fjg. 383.
305
an old
flag has
the
to slip the card-
— A Simple Monoplane Model.
board wings will already be prepared. find
down
If
you cannot
up somew^here, from which the
staff nailed
been w^ashed by the
you may use a cabinet-
rain,
(Wire Shaft
•0-.
Bead
tin propeller blade (Cut two of these out of
a
BRASS BEARING
tomato can)
Fig. 385. -Flag staff -.
qla^^ Screw hook
Fig. 384.
— Center-pole of Monoplane with Motor in Place. Fig. 385. — Details of Propeller, Shaft and Bearing. Fig. 384.
maker's dowel stick and rip one end for a distance of inches and the other for a distance of 6 inches. this center-pole
about 18 inches long.
5
Cut
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
3o6
Before attaching the propeller,
Two
Cut the
Planes out of cardboard of a light weight,
enough to support itself. The sizes of these planes must be determined by experimenting, as they will depend upon the weight of the material, but will be approximately 5 inches by 12 inches and 4 inches by yet
stiff
The
6 inches.
large plane should be fastened about
i
inch from one end of the pole, and the rear plane should
be placed about the same distance from the opposite end.
You have now completed tried out before the
plane fore and ful
sweeps
you intend in place
A roof,
;
aft until
building,
if
and
it
should be
Adjust the rear
attached.
model
this
will glide in long, grace-
permanently
in place
to install a motor, for after this has
if
been put
be necessary to readjust this plane.
Glider Race or,
the
is
but do not fasten
will
it
motor
a glider,
you
may
live
in
be started from a shed or barn
an upper story
of
an apartment
you may use the rear porch from which
to
start the models.
The details for An Easily Made
Propeller are
shown
in Fig. 385.
The
blades are cut out of tin from a tomato can, which you will find of just the
edge
of the cut
end
right curve. of a can,
Remove
the ragged
by holding the can over a
flame until the solder melts and the end drops
off;
mark out one blade to the dimensions given, cut it and mark out the second blade with it as a pattern. Cut a block f inch by f inch by
i;^
then out,
inches in size out
MODEL AEROPLANES of
hard wood for a hub;
307
a small hole
drill
through the
center for a shaft, and slot each end diagonally for a dis-
tance of ^
inch with a saw, as
Notch each edge
shown in
shown
of the blades near the
in the pattern
;
then
slip the
the detail.
in
narrow end, as
blades into the slots
the hubs, bend the ends over against the hub, and
drive a tack through the
wood and
the tin to help hold
them in position. Cut a short piece of wire for The Shaft, and after slipping it through the hub bend the end over and stick it into another small hole made in the hub.
The Shaft Bearing should be made out brass | little
inch by i^ inches in
of a piece of
Drill a hole of
size.
a
larger diameter than the shaft, near one end, and,
^ inch aw^ay from into the split end
this end,
bend
it
shown then set it and bind it in place
as
of the center-pole,
;
by winding the end with strong linen thread. thread with glue, or with shellac,. to hold
it
Coat the
in place.
Strands of rubber are used for
The Motive Power sively, as this is the
of
model aeroplanes almost exclu-
most
efficient light-weight material
which has as yet been found
for the purpose.
For the
simpler models, No. 32 rubber bands are often looped together chain fashion, and several strands of these used
;
but for the larger machines strands of rubber about yV Rubber strands 3-^ inch inch thick are generally used. thick can be purchased wherever model aeroplanes are
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
3o8 sold,
and
will cost
you
will
find
specialty
addresses
the
of
dealers,
who make
furnishing model aeroplane parts,
of
magazines.
about $i for a piece loo feet long;
Some
High School have and have found
The number
of the
the
boys of the Chicago Calumet
tried the
this
in
a
rubber from old golf
balls,
very satisfactory.
of strands necessary for a
motor
will de-
pend, of course, upon the age of the rubber, and
its
you use No. 32 rubber bands, which are ^inch wide and 3 inches long, from four to six strands will usually be sufficient, while if you use -^ inch rubber,
diameter.
If
there should be from ten to eighteen strands. Slip a glass bead on to the propeller shaft for a thrust-
bearing, then slip the shaft through the hole in the hub,
bend the end into a hook, and
The
slip
the rubber over
it.
other ends of the strands should be looped over a
screw-hook, and the hook should be screwed into the
away from the propeller shaft. The strands should be just loose enough to remain taut when unwound. The propeller of model aeroplanes is usually placed at the forward end, rather than in the rear as on the large machines, and the model is really drawn through center-pole about
12
inches
the air instead of propelled.
model
flies
It
has been found that the
steadier by this arrangement.
When winding up
the Motor for a Flight, the propeller
should be given from 100 to 175 turns, according to the strength of the rubber and
number
of strands used.
MODEL AEROPLANES
A
Running-gear
plane like
this,
not necessary for a simple mono-
is
but
311
it is
easily
made and
a big protection to the propeller blades, to
be bent out of shape
if
attached, and
which are
broken
of metal, or
if
of
is
likely
wood,
by coming in contact with the ground. Figure 389 shows a simple way to construct the frame out of wire and bamboo, and
how
boo axle run through the wheels.
the ends of the bam-
Button molds can
be purchased at any dry-goods store for about dozen, and these
make
the axle and are
A
with
cents a
excellent wheels; they turn
upon
held in place by driving short pins
through the bamboo ends. block
5
small
tacks
Fasten the wire frame to or
thread,
or
with
both
(Fig. 387)-
Some boys provide
their
models with bamboo
Skids constructed similar to the runners w^hich were
upon the large machines, but wheels look neater upon the model machines, and produce less originally used
friction.
The Planes
Only two
model do not require a framework.
for this
sticks are necessary for each,
through the hems sewed on the edges
and these of the
slip
covering
Silk should be used for the covering of the
(Fig. 390). planes,
and,
enough
in
if
your
mother hasn't any scraps large
her scrap-bag, you can buy enough for the
two planes for 25 cents. If your mother or sister will do the necessary sewing on the sewing-machine, the rest of the
work can be
finished
up very quickly; however,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
312
any boy who thread well
handy can manage a needle and enough when he has to, and does not find it Is
at all
Make
hard, either.
a
hem along each END LOOPS
THiS
(See
to
OVER
JOP OF END BLOCK
long edges
of the
run the sticks
'a'
and a
into,
Fig. 387.)
nar-
row one along
narrow
each
edge to keep the silk
from
ing.
tern
ravel-
The
pat-
(Fig. 390)
shows the proper dimensions
for
The
the planes.
may be
sticks
out of
whittled pine,
boo
but is
bam-
lighter
and stronger. After the
Tie TO Ring E'-
Fig. 390.
— Pattern
silk
has been prefor Planes
and Connections
Monoplane Model shown
in Fig. 386.
for
pared
and
the
sticks have been
slipped
into
the
hems made
for
them, sew a dozen
small brass rings to the edges, in the positions indicated
upon the
pattern, being careful to place each
pair of
same distance away from the center. To the two center rings on the front edge of the front plane fasrings the
MODEL AEROPLANES ten the ends of a piece of wire bent as
with a loop in the end to
shown
in Fig. 390,
A
over the top of block
Attach a cord
center-pole.
the
fit
313
the
to
rings
ends of the front plane, for warping the plane
;
of
the
at
connect
the two planes about \o\ inches apart with cords tied to
shown
the end rings as
;
and
a short piece of cord
tie
each of the remaining rings by which to fasten
to
the planes to rings
attaching the
In
the
wire
E
D, and
C,
planes
loop over the
to
the
top
of
on the center-pole.
center-pole,
block
A
slip
first
(Fig.
387),
then pull the cords on the rear edge of the rear plane sticks in the front plane are
until the
them
to ring
rings
C
and
E\
D
tie
bowed, and
tie
the cords on the center rings to
keep the planes centered upon the
to
center-pole.
After you have completed this model, go over
examine each part see that the ;
is
stretched taut
;
it
and
covering of the planes
silk
sight along the model, lengthwise, to
see that the planes are in line with each other; test the
warping
of the front
plane to
same on each end; and,
if
make
certain that
it is
the
necessary, readjust the bracing
cords to correct any of these faults. If
the model dives
move
cords and
and then back
slips
until
when you
try
the rear plane a
backwards
it,
little
is
Some boys
tie
;
move
obtained.
planes have been properly adjusted, slip.
forward
to the ground,
a perfect balance
so they will not
loosen the bracing if it
rises
the plane
When
the
the cords securely
coat the knots with glue
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
3^4
make them doubly secure, but two half-hitches will make a perfect fastening. The upper center photograph in the group opposite
to
page 302 shows
with the
When
up, ready to be released for a flight.
model
carefully made, this
200
aloft
— Antoinette Monoplane Model.
Fig. 391.
motor wound
model monoplane held
this
100 to
will fly distances of
feet.
The Antoinette Model shown plane and one that
The Center-pole piece of a
bamboo
is
is
easily
shown
in Fig.
391
is
A
and
and fasten
Run
B
in Fig. 392,
fishing-rod or
and consists
bamboo umbrella
B similar to blocks A in place
a piece of
stiff
mono-
made.
24 inches long and | or i inch in diameter. blocks
a neat
and
B
of a
ha'ndle,
Prepare the in Fig.
388,
2\\ inches away from block A.
wire through the center-pole at C,
which should be 2\ inches from A, and another at D, which should be 6 inches away from C\ also run a piece ^\ inches long and having its lower end bent into the form of a hook, through a vertical hole bored
of wire, cut
through the center-pole
-^
inch back of block B.
Drive
MODEL AEROPLANES
i
a screw into the top of the pole at /%
315
which should be
7
inches away from block B, and fasten a brass ring to the rear end of the pole, as
Use the
at G,
details given in Fig.
The Propeller for
motor
shown
this model,
388 in preparing
and connect up the rubber
as described for the other model.
Figures 393 to 396 show the patterns for the wings,
and rudder.
tail, fin,
A
B
D Fig. 392.
Fig. 393.
RUDDER Fig. 396.
Fig. 392. •
F^G. 393. Fig. 394.
— Center-pole of Antoinette Monoplane Model. — Pattern Wings. FiG. 395. — Pattern — Pattern for Tail. Fig. 396. — Pattern for
The Wings require frames made
bamboo
sticks
bound together
of
for Fin.
for
Rudder.
wire, or of four
at the corners with linen
thread, as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 393,
they are covered with
silk.
The
and
projecting ends on the
side pieces are provided for connection to the euds^ of
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
3i6
wires
C and
bind them in
D
on the center-pole (Figs. 392 and 391); Connect place with linen thread (Fig. 391).
and make
the ends of the wings with a thread or cord,
enough to warp the wings 2\ inches (measurecenter, and from string to center-pole).
this short
ment
at
The Tail has one
stick,
which
slips into a
hem
short edge of the cloth, and cords run through
in
the
hems on
Fasten one end of each cord to
the other two edges.
This
the stick and the other end to a small brass ring.
plane should be warped f inch, by attaching a warping cord to the ends of the stick, as shown in Fig. 391.
The Fin
is
prepared similar to the
stead of having a stick run through
plane, but, in-
tail it,
short edge slips over the upper end of wire
The
rings on the fin and
The Rudder has a piece give
it
and the ends
stiffness,
hooks and fastened 391 and 392).
run through
its
of this wire are
to the lower part of wire
Attach a thread to the rear
and fasten the ends
E (Fig.
392).
over the nail at F,
tail slip
of wire
seam on the
the
of this to the
ends
edge
to
bent into
E
of the
(Figs.
rudder
of the tail plane,
setting the rudder in line with the center-pole, or at an angle, according to whether fly
you wish
to
have the model
straight or in a curve.
The Running-gear
is
to be constructed the
same
as for
the other model.
A
shown in Fig. This is one of the forms of monoplane models 397. used by the boys of the Chicago Calumet High School More Elaborate Monoplane Model
is
MODEL AEROPLANES in
their
study of aeronautics.
make than
is
more
difficult to
built
some
of
the simpler models
should be prepared to undertake
struction; for he
ship
Is
those which have been described, but any
handy boy who has successfully
It
317
Its
con-
win have learned that exact workman-
necessary in model making, that the weight and
Fig. 397.
— A More Elaborate Monoplane Model.
strength of materials used must be carefully considered,
must be carefully tested as prepared, that the planes must be warped or bowed to the same degree at both ends, and that an efficient propeller is one half
that each part
of the secret of
As
so
producing a record-breaking model.
many measurements
model, in order that each part
are
necessary for this
may
be properly propor-
T' Rudder--*
MOVE REAR PLANE BACK AND forth until correct Balance
is
obtained.
-Center- Pole
tDGE STBIP^
DOTTEd-.LlNIES^'SHOW METHOD of bracfng.'and warpins
Planes
EDGF
Fig. 398.
^'^^^
strip 2i_
— Plan or Top View.
(Scale i"
=
i".)
i^ri)
RuNMING-GEAR BPACE
Button Mould
Fig. 399.
— Front Elevation of Monoplane Model shown (Scale I"
=
318
I".)
in Fig. 397.
MODEL AEROPLANES
319
tioned and properly placed, working-drawings are to a scale of
^ Inch to the Inch; that
is,
shown
the plan or top
view (Fig. 398), the front elevation (Fig. 399), and the side elevation (Fig. 400) are reproduced upon the pages at such a size that i Inch of the drawing on the page represents if
I
inch on the model, which you will understand
you have studied the instructions
in
Chapter IV
for
making working-drawings. By placing an ordinary ruler upon the pages you will be able to tell exactly what any measurement is. Unless you have had some experience in reading mechanical drawings, there you, and which
I
is
one thing which
shall explain.
peller in Figs. 398
If
and 399, you
may
you look
will see that
shorter In the plan than In the front elevation
puzzle
at the proit is ;
shown
the plan
does not, in this case, show the correct length, but represents the top view
when
the propeller
angle shown in the front elevation. in the plan.
The
propeller
is
It
is \'$>
turned to the fores horte7ied
foreshortened in the same warping thread Rear Plane
HOOK FOR
ENDS OF STB4NDS OF Rubber f-ioTOR
Fig. 400.
— Side Elevation of Monoplane Model shown in Fig. 397. (Scale I"
=
i".)
;
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
320
way
would be seen
it
shown
in a side
view when
As
in the front elevation.
an angle are foreshortened
at
which shows
in the side elevation (Fig. 400),
all
is
it
it
as
turned as
other portions set
in a similar
manner, in
all
views in which you do not look squarely at them, be
drawing which shows the true length,
careful to use the
measurements.
in taking off the
The Center-pole
bamboo, handle
is
made out
be used, and should be about
and the framework backbone and split
model
of a piece of
which a fishing-rod or Japanese parasol
for
may
of this
bamboo
inch thick
of the running-gear, the braces,
ribs of
^g-
-|
and the
each plane are made of strips of
inch thick by ^-^ inch wide, and the edge
and rudder are made of pine about The ribs from a Japanese parasol inch in diameter. may be used for the bamboo strips, and the sticks from a contrivance made to keep the walls a sink splasher,
strips of the planes
^
—
around a sink from being splashed, which can be purare chased for 5 or 10 cents at a department store
—
just the thing for the 3^-inch sticks
boo may be used instead
of the
;
small strips of bam-
round
sticks,
if
they are
easier to obtain.
Strong linen thread
is
The Best Material
for
Binding the sticks
together.
sometimes used, but thread is very much lighter and easier to handle, and if you brush the connections with a thin coat of glue after wrapping the thread around
Wire
is
them, they cannot possibly separate.
The binding was
MODEL AEROPLANES not
321
shown on the connections on the plan and
tions,
make
in order not to
eleva-
the drawings complicated,
but you will readily see where
it is
necessary by looking
at Fig. 397.
The Running-gear consists each of which a pair of
Measure
wheels.
two triangular frames, on button molds are mounted for
off the lengths of the strips,
drawings, and fasten the
Whittle
401.
of
down
ends of the axles to
from the
strips
together as
in
Fig. 401.
— Running-gear
of
Fig.
the the
fit
holes in the button molds,
and drive pins through them to hold the molds in place.
After
completing
bind them to
the frames,
the center-pole and
brace
each upright with a diagonal brace, as
shown
in Figs.
398 and 400.
The Propeller show^n the drawings of
is
a true form
screw-propeller.
making
of
difficult,
and
The
one of these it
in
is
requires a great deal of accuracy in both
laying out and cutting to produce one that
Many boys pellers
Mono
plane shown in Fig. 397.
is efficient.
succeed in preparing very satisfactory pro-
out of pine, spruce, or walnut, and sometimes
laminations (layers) of walnut
and white holly wood,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
322
A
while other boys buy them already made.
lo-inch propeller can be purchased for about $1.
tive If
very effec-
you make your propeller, follow the dimensions shown
upon the drawings. The Shaft Bearing
Make
this
of
brass
to
keep
its
enough
is
or
shown
in
copper,
detail
of
Flatten
— Propeller Shaft and Two
the
side
of
pole
for
which to
fit
side
make
to
the bearing, you
The Shaft
is
of this, as
made
centerto
rest
and wire about
J-
^\^q
it
inch ^^d.
brass, copper, or tin out of
may
prepare a block
on the pole and tack the bearing
and ends
it
^^^y ^^^^
you have only very thin
under
the
in place
Forms of Shaft Bearing. If
inch thick.
-^^
against, Figs. 402 and 403.
402.
any gauge heavy
shape, and not over Fig. 401.
Fig.
in
shown
in
the under
to
Fig. 403.
out of a piece of
stiff
wire (Figs.
400 and 402). File a square taper upon the propeller end of this, so that the propeller w411 not turn upon it, and, after slipping
bead on
to
it
propeller of
i
all
it
through the bearing, solder a glass
inch from the end, as shown, to relieve the
motor
strain.
Drive the propeller on to
the end of the shaft, carefully, so as to avoid the danger of splitting shaft,
there
if
is
it.
It is
not necessary to clinch the end of this
you drive the propeller on
to
an advantage in not clinching
that the propeller can easily be
properly; and
it
it,
removed
in the fact
then, in case
MODEL AEROPLANES of accident, or
if
you have a number
of
forms of pro-
you can quickly interchange them.
pellers,
the hole through it
323
the
bearing, be sure to place
shaft
low enough so the hook
In drilling
will clear the center-pole, in
revolving.
The hook
for the rear
end
of the
rubber motor should
be bent out of a piece of brass, and be wired to the under side of the center-pole to a flattened surface, as
shown
in
Fig. 400.
The Rubber Motor described for the other models
will
be satisfactory for this machine (see page 307).
The Construction
of the Planes is clearly
Bend the
the working-drawings.
shown
in Fig. 404,
Fig. 404.
ribs to the exact
and be careful to get them
all
curve alike.
— Curve the Ribs of the Planes like This. of the
backbone,
sticks carefully, then test each
framework
Bind together the ends balances at the center
;
this
have cut the sticks of equal at equal
shown upon
it
must
size
do,
ribs,
and edge
to see that
and
it
will
if
it
you
and have connected them
distances each side of the center.
Cover the
planes with silk or with Japanese rice-paper, stretching the covering as tight as possible, and cross-stitching the silk
or gluing the
paper.
first,
before putting
it
drumhead.
on,
If it
you dampen the paper
will dry out as tight as a
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
324
Bind the planes
to the center-pole at
398 and 400), being careful
in
to
B
(Figs.
The
rear plane will
be readjusted, after the model has been completed,
which
to a point
produce a perfect balance
will
machine, but the position shown tion
and
doing so to place them
exactly at right angles to the pole.
have
A
and a good one
for a first
an approximate loca-
is
trial.
The Bracings, shown by the dotted tions, are fastened to the
of the
ends of the
lines in the illustrasticks.
Use strong
linen thread and fasten each end with two half-hitches.
You may
notch the ends of the sticks on the edges,
the same
way
that
you notched the frame pieces
of the
running-gear, to avoid the possibility of the thread
ping
slip-
but with well-tied half-hitches this precaution
off,
in
is
not necessary.
The Rudder Frame should be lashed as
shown
in
Figs. 397
and 400.
to the center-pole,
Cover the frame with
thin paper or silk. Finish.
To make
the framework
should be finished in some way. carefully with sandpaper, then give of
shellac or
such as
is
aluminum
paint.
more shipshape, First rub it
this the model's
down
a couple of coats
The aluminum
sold for stoves and radiators
and by using
it
it
framework
is
paint
inexpensive,
will
appear to
be made of aluminum. Flights this Monoplane
is
capable of Making.
the boys of the Chicago Calumet
club have
made models
of this type
Some
of
High School's aero which have covered
MODEL AEROPLANES distances of from 200 to 325 feet.
mechanic, you will
may
325
you are a good
If
be able to turn out a machine which
exceed this longest
flight,
and
if
you are a genius,
you may be able to discover improvements which develop
opposite pages 297 and 302 sizes,
and some
center-pole,
show
of the models,
vided with additional
The photographs
breaker.
a record
into
it
this
you
model
made
in various
will notice, are pro-
placed below and above the
fins,
while others have a horizontal
After you have
will
tail
plane.
the model for which the working-
drawings are given, work out some of these extra
parts,
using your ingenuity, as well as the photographs, to
determine the proper proportions for them.
Model aeroplane making, carrying machines,
is
like
the building of
in its infancy as yet,
and
man-
for this
reason probably offers a better opportunity for the boy
inventor to
show
his skill
and originality than does any
other experimental work occupying the attention of
and boys
at the present time.
the small machines ones.
is
flying of
keeping pace with that of the large
Each boy owner
a determination to
The making and
men
of a
make
machine usually a
name
sets out with
for himself,
and the
made and smashed in would make it difficult for any
frequency with which records are the junior aero contests
one but an enthusiast to keep track of the
Some
of
my
readers will doubtless be holders of model
aeroplane records, and
want you
to let
latest records.
when
me know.
the honor
comes
to you,
I
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
326
The boy who
devises a motor which will be
cient than the rubber strand
motor used
more
effi-
at the present
do more to advance this new pastime than can come from any other form of development, so here is a time, will
good
field for
your experiments.
—
1
I
J
CHAPTER XX A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP -iih-wsr/n
\\v.
-
-
\\\
-
-^
Probably after making a number of different forms of model aeroplanes, you boys will become ambitious to construct something in which you yourselves can ride. Although the airship and aeroplane have been developed to the point feat,
where successful flying
However, fly, I
able
an accomplished
they are a long ways from the stage of perfection
whereby one can to
is
you
fly
without endangering
to help satisfy
am
you
life
restless fellows
who
going to show you a scheme which
to sail
through the
air.
This
will
or limb. desire
will en-
not contain
the elements of danger or foolhardiness attendant
upon
leaping from a tree-top or shed roof with an umbrella for a parachute, or
any
of the
ingenious ideas shown in Mr.
Bradley's cartoon on page 299, which any lad suffered the consequences
who has
by breaking a limb or smash-
ing the dining table and other furniture in such reckless endeavors, will
tell
airship described will
you are not a success
and
illustrated
;
instead, the auto-
upon the following pages
provide a greater safety to the pilot than
the coaster
upon a toboggan-slide, or coaster 327
is
afforded
railway,
to-
•
/^'^
siii>^
328
A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP gether with see
many
by looking
As you
of the thrills of flying.
at Figs.
which the airship
329
flies
will
405 and 406, the rope cable along is hung low enough to keep the
Fig. 406.
— Making a Landing.
course of the young aviator always close to the surface
Mother Earth. For the Framework of the Balloon (Fig. 407), procure eight barrel hoops and three i-by-2-inch strips 12 or 14 feet long, and purchase at a hardware store two wooden single blocks (the size for f-inch rope, with Jiooks and beckels, Fig. 41 1), 3 pounds of No. 12 steel wire, and \ pound
of orood old
of small
From
copper staples (Fig. 408). the i-by-2-inch strips cut
A, B,
8 inches long, and crosspieces E, F, G,
the lengths
shown
in the
C,
and
H,
/,
D
5 feet
and
/
of
top view of the framework (Fig.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
33^
Remove
409).
the beckets from the single blocks, un-
screwing the bolts which hold them in the iron straps
and bore a
(Fig. 41
1),
through
strips
C and
hole, the size of those in the straps,
J?,
Then
i^ inches from each end. Rib-band
Fig. 410,
Fig. 411.
Figs. 407 and 408.
Fig. 409.
— Side and End Views of Framework of Balloon, —
Top and End Views showing Framework before Ribs and Rib-bands are attached.
Figs. 409 and 410.
Fig. 411.
bolt
— Wooden Single Block.
C and
D to the
using 4-inch
bolts.
becket straps (Figs. 409 and 410), Nail the crosspieces to
spacing them as shown in Fig. 409
and
B
wooden
to the crosspieces,
;
and D,
then nail strips
and screw
shells of the blocks (Fig. 410).
C
A
their
ends
to the
Two
nails
should
be used at each point of nailing, to insure a strong frame-
work.
The Barrel Hoop Ribs are fastened to the ends crosspieces (Fig. 407).
Remove
of the
the nails which hold
the hoops together, and turn in the ends until the inside
A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP
331
diameters equal the length of the crosspieces, then drive several nails through the ends
To
inner side of the hoops.
and clinch them on the
build out the
bow and
stern
framework (Fig. 407), cut the two remaining hoops
of the
in halves, cross a pair of these halves at right
each end, and fasten their centers together
ends to the end ribs and drive
angles for
then nail the
;
in a nail at the points
D
where the hoops cross strips A, B, C, and Clinch all nails wherever it is possible to do Cut Twelve Rib-bands from the No.
1
2
(Fig. 408).
so.
wire, fasten
one
across the bottoms of the ribs, another across the tops
and space the remaining ten between them
(Fig. 407), at
The
equal distances.
in Fig. 408,
intermediate rib-bands are
but have been omitted
in
shown
make
Fig. 407 to
Fasten the rib-bands to the
that illustration clearer.
ribs
with staples (Fig. 408). Before
inclosing
framework, cut twelve
the
6-foot
lengths of heavy cord for Stays, and tie one to each rib just above the crosspiece (Fig. 407); also run a cord through the blocks, so that
when you cable,
are ready to slip the balloon on to
you can
by means
of
it,
tie
its
rope
the end of the cord to the rope and,
pull the rope
through the wheels
of the
blocks.
You
will require
\\ yards
A
The Balloon Envelope. bric or muslin will
make
any cloth you can
get,
of cloth for
black, brown, or gray cam-
the most durable covering, but
such as old sheets, can be used.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
332
Put the cloth on lengthwise of the framework in two strips, stretch it as smooth as possible, and fasten it to tacks and to the rib-bands with thread.
the ribs with
On
top of the envelope sew a band of white cloth around
the center of the balloon (Fig. 405).
The Construction tion, as Figs.
of the Car requires
little
explana-
412 to 418 show the details clearly.
Pro-
Fig. 412.
FiG. 413.
Fig.
but
412.— The
Car.
— First Step making over a Box Front of Car. Fig. 414. — Gate — Details of Propeller. to Figs. 415 418.
Fig. 413.
in
for a Car.
for
cure a box about 16 inches deep, 20 inches wide, and
remove the bottom and one end, nail the bottom boards crosswise to form the car seat (Fig. 413), and saw off the projecting ends. Reenforce the sides Cut the of the box with vertical boards (Fig. 412). first two boards long enough to support the pitched foot3 feet long;
A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP board, which should be fastened seat,
and make the
first
333
14 inches below the
board on each side project
inch
i
beyond the box (Fig. 412) to form a rabbet for the gate Nail cleats and L to the side boards, where to set in.
K
shown, and fasten the foot-board upon them.
Fit the
between the seat and foot-board, make a seat back as shown in Figs. 412 and 415, and attach a pair of
seat-riser
wagon wheels
to the sides.
Fasten the gate boards together
three battens,
w^ith
making the top and bottom battens long enough
to pro-
ject
i^ inches on each side; drive a 20-penny (4-inch)
nail
through each end
screw four screw-eyes sockets, in
which to
of
the projecting battens, and
into
the
them
set
front
of
(Figs. 412
the
car for
and 414).
Bore eight f-inch holes through each side of the \\ inches below the top, through which to (Fig. 412); then cut
two
for the suspension stays,
tie
car,
the stays
6-foot lengths of J-inch rope
and
tie
the ends of one through
the two front holes, and the ends of the other through
the two rear holes (Fig. 412).
The Propeller (Figs. 415 to 418) requires a hub
strip
i-by-i-by-io inches in size, with a 3^-inch slot in each
end (Fig. 417), and two blades similar Notice that the of the
other.
hub
strip,
slots are cut
to
Fig.
diagonally across the ends
and that one
is
at right angles to the
Bore a J-inch hole through the center
side of the in the slots.
418.
of
one
hub strip (Fig. 417), then fasten the blades Cut a stick 1 inches long for the propeller 1
;
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
334
shaft (Fig. 415), fasten the propeller to
end
sert the other
the car
wooden If
side,
A
nail
;
it
in a hole
one end, and
in-
bored through the back of
securely in position, and brace
it
with a
bracket.
you stretch the cable you
for
your airship upon a
hill-
will require
enough to lift the car the ground is level, or nearly so
Starting Platform just high
off the
ground, but
(Fig. 405),
be necessary to construct a platform
will
it
if
8 feet or so above the surface to give the rope cable sufficient pitch.
This platform apart,
and
is
built
is
between two
trees, 3 or
4 feet
Each bracket
supported by four brackets.
consists of three pieces of 2-by-4, as you will see by look-
Cut the piece marked
ing at Fig. 405.
and iVand of and
N
O O,
2 feet
and
M4
feet long,
6 inches long; miter the lower ends
let
their
upper ends into M.
Nail
the pieces together and spike two brackets to each tree
then spike crosspieces
under top piece ports.
Cut the
M
P and Q
across the trees, directly
of the brackets, as additional sup-
railing
T
uprights R, S, and
5
feet
long, mortise the upper ends for the gate {[/) to slide
through, and spike them to the brackets.
lower ends with the diagonal pieces
upper ends with boards
X
long enough to reach from in a hole
strip
and V.
R
F and
Brace the J4^,
and
their
Cut the gate (C/)
to T, insert a short stick
bored near one end, for a handle, and
across the other end to prevent
it
nail a
from pulling
A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP through the mortise
in
upright R.
335
Nail the platform
boards in place, and fasten
A
Push-off Platform (Z) between the trees, 18 inches
above the main platform, for the
car.
Build a ladder from the ground to the main platform.
The Rope
Purchase |-inch Manila rope for the cable, and get whatever length you will require in one Fasten one end of this rope to a tree a few feet
piece. in
back
run
Cable.
of the
upper station platform (Fig. 405), then
through the single blocks
it
work, and while
much
of the
you
pull
in the balloon frame-
on the rope to take up as
slack as possible, have
some one
tie
the
lower end to the center of a rope stretched between two trees at the lower If
end
of the airship's course (Fig. 406).
there doesn't happen to be a tree directly in back of
the upper station, you can attach that end of the rope
same way that you fastened the lower end. Tie the lower end of the rope low enough so the car will run upon the ground for a few feet, and slow up, before reaching the end. Throw some loose earth over the point of landing, and from there as between two
far as the
trees, in the
end
of the rope, to retard the speed of the
wheels.
To attach the
Car, hitch the loops of the
stays over the block
hooks (Fig.
of the intermediate stays
405),
and
through the holes
suspension
tie
the ends
in the sides
of the car.
To pull back the Airship to the Starting
Platform,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
2,2,6
hook
attach a strong cord to the it
in the stern block,
through a small pulley attached
the
(Fig.
cable
platform to a
405),
windlass
to the
and bring
it
constructed
run
upper end
down below as shown in
of
the
the
illustration. If
you boys club together
several of
auto-airship,
have the
you
first
ride
workmen have enjoy a
trip.
will ;
have to
"
then, after
ridden,
you
By charging
toss all
will
up
"
in
building an
to see
for material.
shall
of the " directors "
and
want your friends
a small fare you can
the airship pay back, in a short time, what
expended
who
to
make
you have
,1
I
I
izz^
CHAPTER XXI CAMPING EQUIPMENT
When
the last day of school arrives, isn't
it
with a
you pack up your books, carry them home, and throw them on to a high shelf, or into your somewhere out of siorht bedroom closet ? And isn't it o sense of
relief that
—
hard to realize that you need not think of lessons again for
more than two months, and
that
whatever you choose for the balance It
you are
of the
do
summer days ?
used to be that way when the author was a boy, and
conditions probably haven't changed
Some
of
you boys
out for the
first
will
much
in this regard.
experience the joys of camping
time this summer,
— the
always remains freshest In one's memory, as is
free to
amusing
so full of
incidents,
have camped out before
w^ill
— and those
trip
which
it
generally
of
you who
probably not miss an oppor-
do so again this year; but, if it is not possible for you to go away from tow^n, there is no reason why you cannot camp out near home, in some vacant lot, or in your back yard, or on the porch or roof. tunity to
A
Tent
is
one
ment to look
of the first parts of the
after.
The
camping equip-
prices of tents vary in different 337
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
338
you can get an 8 foot by lo foot
locations, but
New
for about $7,
and a wall tent
of the
same
size (see photo-
— An "A" Tent.
graph opposite page 340) for about $g, while cost about one half as much as the tent. the
you wish
work
cost.
to
make
and you
difficult,
The sewing will
machine.
ay^
will
a tent yourself, you will not find will save considerable
on the
together of the strips of canvas
be willing
is
work for a boy probably your to do this for you on her sewing-
the hardest part of the
mother
tent
York, Chicago, Denver, or San Francisco,
FiG. 419.
If
A"
lo-ounce duck, complete with poles and
(Fig. 419) of stakes, in
"
;
Eight-ounce duck, 29 inches wide,
retails at
about 15 cents a yard, and the lo-ounce weight, which is
better for the purpose, at about 18 cents a yard.
For making an
diagram (Fig.
"
A"
420),
The diagram shows
Tent of the size shown upon the
you
will require
30 yards of material.
the completed tent as
it
would appear
CAMPING EQUIPMENT when spread out mensions
flat
and that
A, B,
E, G,
strips
C,
/,
are also the
as
angular pieces F,
and
upon the ground, and
also the di-
for cutting the different lengths of canvas.
will see that strips
size,
339
and
and
D
K
You
are of equal length,
are of one shape and^
tri-
H,
/,
L and strips Mand N.
Lap each
strip a full
i
inch
over the edge of the adjoining pieces, as indicated
I
by the dotted lines on the
sew each
and
diagram,
seam near the edges with a double row of stitching. After
the
of
all
pieces
have been cut and sewed together,
back
turn
outside edges
i
the
inch,
Fig. 420.
"A"
as
them
Buy one dozen
off
and
for
Making an feet
and
5 inches.
indicated by dotted lines, to finish
— Diagram
Tent, 7 feet by 9
at the
same
time, reenforce them.
i-inch iron harness rings for the ridge
and
guy-rope eyelets, set two in the canvas at the ends of the ridge,
and one
at the
end
of
each of the side seams, and
buttonhole stitch them in place.
The canvas should be
reenforced with a square patch in the places where the eyelets are to be set in in the ridge.
and straps tie
Sew
canvas loops
to the flaps, in the locations indicated,
and
the guy-ropes through the eyelets provided for them.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
34°
Figures 421 to 423 show the details for The Ridge-pole and Uprights. These should be cut out of pieces if inches square,
Cut the uprights about
ioiece of 2-by-4. l^ong,
t^ie
which
5 feet
of a
10 inches
allow for setting the ends 3 inches into
will
and the ridge-pole 9
ground,
^ ound
which may be ripped out
feet 5 inches long.
Drive
off the top of the ridge-pole as in Fig. 423.
^ hiece of f-inch or |-inch iron rod into one
end
of
each
upright (Fig. 422), and bore
"w-
two
holes,
I
inch
larger
than the rods, through the ridge-pole
in
the
proper
positions for the rods to (Fig. 421).
in
tin
A
fit
piece of
bent around the ends
of the pole, as in Fig. 423, will Fig. 422.
Fig. 421.
— Connection of Ridge-pole Upright. Fig. 422. — End of Upright. Fig. 423. — End of Ridge-pole.
prevent the rods from
splitting them.
Fig. 421.
Fourteen Tent Stakes will
witli
be
required,
and these
should be prepared at home,
to save delay in pitching the tent after
you reach your
camping ground. Pitch your Tent
supply
if
possible,
upon a
level spot, close to
and dig a
little
your water
trench around
it
to
catch the surface rain-water, which would otherwise run into the tent
on the low
;
make
a couple of outlets from the trench,
side, so the
water
will drain
away.
Do
this
A Wall
Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly.
Flapjacks for Two.
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
341
trenching as soon as you have pitched your tent
you may be caught unprepared
wise, is
;
for a storm,
other-
and
it
unpleasant to be compelled to do the work during a
drenching
A
rain.
Tent Ground-cloth, which should
material, should
dampness
of waterproof
be laid upon the ground and lapped
up around the sides the
be
of
the
of
the
tent
;
this
will
prevent
ground from penetrating your
bedding. If
there are spruce or pine trees in the vicinity of your
camp, be sure To make a Mattress upon which to spread your blan-
Cut a number
kets.
of
boughs, and lop
off
enough
of
the tips of the branches to form a good-sized pile of twigs.
Then
carry
these
to
your tent and, beginning
at the
proper point for the head of your bed, place a row of the twigs
back
upon the ground-cloth with the
of the tent.
tips
toward the
Next, place another layer of the twigs
over these, and lap the tips over the butt ends of the
first
row, and continue to lay row after row in this manner,
which
is
just the
way
in
which the shingles on a roof
are lapped, until you have reached the foot of the bed.
The degree
of softness of this mattress will
depend en-
upon the care with which the twigs are placed and how well the butt ends are concealed by the tips. To
tirely
avoid hard lumps, use only the slender portions of the branches.
your bed
Spread your blanket upon the mattress, and will
be complete.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
342 If
the nights are cold in the region in which you intend
to camp, take along
A
By
Sleeping-bag.
folding over your blanket along
the center, lengthwise, and then sewing
it
along the side
and across the bottom, a very satisfactory bag may be made. The author has found such a bag very comfort-
when camping
able, and,
in the
mountains where the
temperature at night drops below "freezing," has used
two
of these bags, slipping
With
double warmth.
around your neck, there
one inside
of the other, to give
the top of the bag pulled snugly is
no
possibility for the cold air
The bag can be turned inside out every morning and aired. With covers in common, you are to reach you.
likely to
one
awaken some
of the other
with
night, feeling cold, to find
boys has been over-generous to himself
the clothes, unless you
your portion
that
know how
to " cling " to
but with a sleeping-bag you are safe from
;
disturbance.
Other Equipment.
No
two boys
will carry the
same
equipment with them when going camping, and every boy will find after he has reached camp that he has taken along lots of needless things and
which would add greatly
left
behind many
to his comforts
;
but this
thing which most campers experience, and ever a
man
carries exactly the
the reason that he
he can make
it
est trouble lies
is
same
outfit
continually finding
it is
articles is
some-
doubtful
on two
if
trips, for
some way wherein
more compact and complete. The generally in taking along too much.
great-
The
CAMPING EQUIPMENT camp
location of your
what special
articles
will
343
determine to a great extent
should be included in the
outfit,
an experienced camper, familiar with that part
and
of the
country, will be a good one to consult about your require-
ments.
A
frying-pan, kettle, saucepan, baking pan, coffee-pot,
wash-basin, two water pails, tin plates and cups, spoons,
knives and forks, and a can-opener will be required for the kitchen outfit
and towels,
;
matches, a lantern and a can of kerosene
about complete the general equipment. to take
several sizes of nails,
penny, and 20-penny,
which you
An
will
—
It is
good plan
a
lo-penny, 16-
for there will probably be things
Lamp
for locating things in
nails, will just
— 8-penny,
wish to make while
Electric Flash
candles, an
oil,
sharpening stone, hammer, saw and
ax, a
and twine,
rags, soap, rope
is
a very
in
camp.
handy
and about the
article to
tent,
have
when you do
not care to bother with lighting your lantern. Packing.
Wrap your matches
in parafiine paper,
and
then place them in a tin can to protect them from dampness
;
and put
in small
sacks all
all
the other small articles of your equipment
bags provided with draw strings
maybe
fixed for the purpose.
other things
belonging
which are not too bulky,
;
salt
Pack the
to the general
in grocery boxes.
and
flour
sacks,
and
equipment
When
you
get to camp, you will find the boxes handy for keeping
and those not required make good stools and will be good things
in,
for this purpose will for setting things on.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
344
A
Safety Match box, a strong jack-knife, and fishing-
made a part of the personal equipment the camping party, and if each has
tackle should be of
each boy
A will
Dufile
of
Box
(Fig. 424) in
which
to carry his outfit, he
save a general mix-up of things, possible loss of small articles, and result-
ing
unpleasantness
the other fellow
may
think
is
with
whom
he
to blame.
A grocery box will serve the
purpose,
but
this
should be gone over carefully,
and
nails
show signs
all
boards whose of loosen-
ing should have additional nails
Fig. 424.
— Camp Duffle Box. — Strap Handle. Fig. 426. — Pocket on Inside of Cover. Fig. 424.
Fig. 425.
into
them.
Batten together the cover
boards on the inside, hinge
them hinges,
driven
to the
box with
strap-
and fasten a hasp to the front so the box may be
padlocked for transporting, and whenever you are away
from camp.
Handles may be made out
strap, or several thicknesses of cloth tape,
to the
of
box with screws
(Fig. 425).
By
of pieces of a
and be secured
fastening a piece
canvas or heavy cloth to the inside of the cover,
over the battens (Fig. 426), tacking edge, and
making buttonholes
in
it
along the bottom
the side and upper
edges to button over large-head tacks, the space be-
;
CAMPING EQUIPMENT tween the battens
a pocket for writing
serve as
will
345
materials.
any boy
If
your party has had experience
in
cooking, leave to
him
the matter of purchasing
But
Food Supplies.
if
you are
had better get your mothers grocery
Each mother
list.
camp
in
"
all
green
" at
you
it,
you make out your have a pretty fair idea
to help will
of the size of her son's appetite,
and
it
ought
be an
to
easy matter for her to estimate on the proper quantities
and
varieties of supplies to
do him.
But she should be
warned, beforehand, to allow for an increased appetite also
to
such things as can easily be prepared.
select
Then compare
all
the
lists
and compile one complete
list
from them. Fish and
but
upon
this as a certainty,
and
know
that
along plenty of everything, unless you
your camp If
possibly be secured while in camp,
best not to count
it is
to take
game may
you are
to be Cook, find out
ham mui^ns, mother
biscuits,
to see
and tea
;
be within easy reach of supplies.
will
also
how try
how
to
make
flapjacks, gra-
and johnny-cake, and watch your
she prepares breakfast cereals, coffee,
your hand
at
cooking these things
while at home, instead of waiting until you get into
and starving your companions, as well as the experimental period.
ness
all
The
It will
yourself,
camp
during
save lots of unpleasant-
around. trouble
met with
Making an Open Fire
in
for
cooking generally arises from
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
346
getting
What
it
is
too large, so that
necessary
is
a small
it
is
fire
all
blaze and smoke.
of hot coals.
If
have watched an experienced camper prepare his
you fire,
you have noticed that he confines it to a small place. The Backwoodsman's Scheme of building his fire between two logs placed alongside of each other, about 6 inches apart at one end and 1 2 inches apart at the other end (Fig.
Fig. 427.
— The Backwoodsman's Camp Fireplace.
very satisfactory for a fireplace, as the
427),
is
fined
between the
logs, and,
is
obtained. fire
from
mud against
their
logs should be green, and, to prevent the
getting under them,
Two
inner faces.
it is
con-
by keeping the wide opening
turned toward the wind, a splendid draft
The
fire is
well to plaster
forked branches are driven into the
ground, one at each end of the fireplace, and a horizontal pole,
known
as a lug pole, rests in the forks
the pothooks.
and supports
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
347
The Pothooks may be made from forked sticks cut to the proper length, with nails driven into
them near the
lower ends (Fig. 428), or out of pieces of heavy wire bent into
hooks
at
one end and loops
made
429), the loops being
large
at the other
enough so they
end (Fig. will
shde
back and forth on the lug pole. Both the stick and wire pothooks
may
made
be
short
enough
to
accommodate the largest pot you have, and then lengthened to suit the small utensils by means of
Fig. 429.
S-shaped extension hooks bent out of wire (Fig. 430)
.
from an empty
tin
tacked
the
across
coffee-pot
and
A piece can logs
of tin
may
1
be
/Fig. 430.
the
for
u
for handleless uten-
Fig. 428. sils
which are too small
for the pic.
Fig. 429-
logs to support. f^
'
^
Such
a
428.'
r
ii
^
i
above
fireplace as the
FiG.
4'?o.
-Stick Pothook Wire Pothook.
— — Extension Hook.
back yard, with perfect safety, and any boy can use his ingenuity to rig up his pothooks and supports out of plain sticks if he cancan be built anywhere, even
in a
not find suitable branches for the purpose.
A
Sheet-iron
Camp
Stove,
tograph opposite page 340, campers, and
open
fire.
A
is
shown in the phovery commonly used by
such as is
is
handier and easier to cook on than the
stove of the size
shown
in the illustration
can usually be bought complete with stovepipe for $1.50.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
348
A
Dutch Oven
is
a
good
substitute for the
camp
stove,
It consists of a and answers almost every purpose. shallow iron pan or kettle, supported upon iron legs and
furnished with a tight-fitting cover. of red-hot coals,
meat,
roasted
then after the biscuits, muffins, beans,
or other food which
fish,
is
to be baked, stewed, or
placed in the pan, the cover
is
a bed
It is set in
is fitted
on and
A
hot coals are heaped up at the sides and over the top.
medium-sized oven
A Camp
will cost $i.oo.
Fireless Cooker
inasmuch
is
another handy contrivance,
as food can be prepared in
while you are
it
away from camp, so that it will be ready to eat immeA diately upon your return at night tired and hungry. cooker
may
be constructed out of a grocery box; and
hay or dried leaves may be used
for packing.
See
direc-
By on page 136 for making a fireless cooker. setting the cooker box into a hole in the ground, and tions
throwing earth over the cover within, the insulation will be
after placing
more nearly
the food
perfect.
To build a Fire properly, whittle a few shavings and cut a
number
of small sticks,
of a lead-pencil
and others a
— some
to
about the
size
— spread
the
little larger,
shavings along the bottom of the fireplace, and upon these pile up the sticks, loosely and crisscrossed, so as to
allow plenty of openings for draft. ings,
and
as soon as the sticks
larger pieces of
put on too
many
wood
Set
fire to
the shav-
have kindled, add a few
to the pile;
pieces before the
but be careful not fire
has
made
to
a good
CAMPING EQUIPiMENT Start,
or you will choke out the flame.
349
A
good
fire
Is
obtained only by careful building, and requires continual
camp cooking. good supply of wood at hand, some
attention to be satisfactory for
Always keep a
place under cover where
and dew, so you
which
to kindle
Camp
comforts of
camp
fire.
A
Furniture.
be protected from rain
never be without dry wood with
will
your
will
it
life,
and a few seats add
table
and the making
interesting occupation for days
to the
of these furnishes
when you wish
to stay
The three tools mentioned among the camp equipment are all that are necessary for making camp furniture, because fine around
work
is
camp.
neither required nor desir-
able in the woods.
Figure 431 shows
A Camp You
Chair that
is
easily
will notice that the
the pieces are
left
being beveled to
made.
edges of
all
square, instead of fit
the adjoining
surfaces, that the seat board
B
is
Fig. 431.
nailed to the diagonal brace C,
— A Camp Chair.
and
D
A, with cleats nailed on to support them, and that the diagonal and is slanted as much as you wish to have the chair leg back slant, and Is braced by the two side braces G. the two fastened to the chair back
E F
A Camp Table (Fig.
432).
By fastening
together several
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
350
boards with battens, a good table top can be made, and this
may
be supported at one end on a cleat nailed across a tree trunk (Fig. 433), and at the other end
on a couple
of stakes
driven into the ground (Fig. 432).
Boxes can usually be picked up in the vicin-
A Camp Table
and Bench. Cleat Support on Tree.
Fig. 433.
an old camp, and
these,
added to those
in
Fig. 432.
Fig. 432.
ity of
which you brought
your
outfit,
ized for
A
Good Table Bench
is
can be
many
util-
things.
obtained by laying a plank across
the tops of two boxes (Fig. 432), and
A
Comfortable Box Bench
is
made by removing one
side
of a box, then placing the
box on the ground, bottom up,
and
constructing
back as shown
To keep
it
Use
in Fig. 434.
from overturn-
ing, nail the
driven
a
into
your
box
to stakes
the
ground.
ingenuity
in
constructing
Box Cupboards to hang in the tent and upon the trees.
^^^- 434-
-A Comfortable Box Bench.
fHMlMy^HX^ '
_i
CHAPTER XXII A HOME-MADE PUNT
Good workmanship is necessary so much for the sake of appearance ability,
but neat appearance
in a properly
will
in boat building,
as for safety
not
and dur-
not be found lacking
The
planned and carefully built boat.
nearer a boat approaches the square lines of a box, the easier
it is
to build,
and
it is
well for a
the simplest forms, such as the punt for a first attempt. easily learned, will
and
The after
boy to
shown
try
one of
in Fig. 435,
principles of boat building are
you have constructed a punt you
have had enough experience
to enable
you
to tackle
other forms of craft of more complicated construction. Dimensions.
The punt shown
feet long, 3 feet 6 inches wide,
in the illustration is 12
and 18 inches deep, but
these dimensions can easily be increased or reduced
you wish a boat Material. terial,
free is
of other proportions.
Get pine or cypress
and be sure
to see that
from knots and other
generally
if
hard to
it is
defects.
find,
for
your building ma-
well seasoned, dry,
and
Stock 18 inches wide
nowadays,
in
most
localities,
so probably you will have to use an 8-inch and a lo-inch 351
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
352
board, or a 6-inch and a
1
2-inch board, for each side.
The
bottom boards should be either 4 or 6 inches wide and BEV/EL
Fig. 435-
— A Home-made Punt. — How the Bottom Boards are Put On. the Bottom Edge of the Stem and Stern Pieces. Fig. 437. — Bevel
Fig. 435. Fig. 436.
off
have plain edges, not tongued and grooved, and the seats
may
be
made
of
Fig. 438.
any scraps you have on hand.
— Batten Together the Side Boards
Figure 438 shows
like this.
how
The Side Boards should be battened
toofether.
Make
the center batten 10 inches wide and the other two battens about 4 inches wide
;
fasten the latter in place about
A HOME-MADE PUNT Short nails
24 inches from the ends.
353
will
not hold such
pieces as battens very well, and the clinching of
where they are exposed
nails,
able, so
it
a
is
good plan
long
to view, is not very desir-
to use screws of the
proper
length for the purpose.
When
the boards of the side pieces have been battened
B
together, locate the points
4 inches below the top edge,
then connect them with points
AB,
as shown,
and saw
off the
A
by the diagonal
ends on these
lines
lines.
Cut the Stem and Ste:n Pieces 4 inches wide and 3 feet 4 inches long, then turn the side pieces over on their top edge as
tween
shown
and
in Fig. 436,
fit
these pieces be-
their ends.
Cut the Bottom Boards
3 feet 6 iiiches long,
4-inch or 6-inch boards mentioned before.
and the edges
of the side pieces
of
out of the
Coat the edges
each bottom board
with white lead, and drive each board as close as possible
Use copper or galvanized
to the preceding piece.
for fastening the boards; these will stand the
nails
exposure
to water, but wire or wrought-iron nails without galva-
nizing will not, and will soon rust through and break
The bottom edge
of the
stem and stern pieces
to be beveled off with a plane as
also
edge
one edge of the
the boards
of the first
and
bottom boards fit
shown
last
will
off.
have
in Fig. 437, as will
bottom boards, and one
at the ridges, in order to
make
together perfectly at those points.
Fasten an Inner Ke>
along the center,
1
fre ,n
Board to the bottom of your boat
bow
to stern, as a protection to
354
..._
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
A
HOME-MADE PUNT
355
and a ^-inch hole from the center of the top down through each for the rowlock to drop into. The
end
for bolting,
socket plate (Fig. 440), which comes with the rowlock,
should be set into the block flush with the top.
Bolt the
blocks to the sides of the punt (Fig. 441) so the centers will
be 14 inches from the center of the center seat.
In case you cannot conveniently get rowlocks. Thole-pins
may
made and used
be
as
a substitute.
Figure 442 shows a pin cut from a piece of broom-handle, and Fig. 443 shows how a pair of them should be set into holes bored in a block similar to those
The
rowlocks.
shown
for the
holes for the pins should be placed about
3 inches apart.
The Painter
may
be knotted on the end and slipped
through a hole bored notch
may
in
the stem piece, and a circular
be cut in the top edge of the stern piece to
admit an oar or paddle for steering. Finishing.
made, and
all
Set
all
nail-heads, putty
other holes and defects,
up the holes thus and then give the
boat two or three coats of lead paint, inside and out, color to suit your taste.
in
CHAPTER
XXIII
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE
Although
there
is
more work
to the construction of
a sharpie than the punt described in the last chapter, is
much
easier to
bow; at the same no more than that boat
is
row on account
of its
it
wedge-shaped
time, the material required will cost for the other boat.
The
flat-bottom
generally considered one of the best forms of
cheap rowboats, and you
Fig. 444.
upon the
rivers
at private piers.
find
it
in
common
use
— A Home-made Sharpie.
and small It is
will
lakes, at
summer
resorts
and
not difficult to build one.
Figure 444 shows a sharpie 1 3 feet long, 3 feet 6 inches wide amidships, and 18 inches deep Dimensions.
356
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE
You may you
do,
alter these proportions
every part will it
you wish,
draw out your revised plan and
sizes for all the pieces before
As
if
is
fit
357
but, in case
figure
out the
beginning work, so that
properly.
difficult to
get boards wider than 14 inches,
Fig. 449.
— Pattern for the Side Pieces. — Two Forms of Stem-piece. Fig. 447. — Pattern for the Stern-piece. Fig. 448. — Pattern for the Stretcher. Fig. 449. — How the Above Pieces are put Together.
Fig. 445. Fig. 446.
and 12 inches will
have
is
usually the widest stock material, you
to use either a 12-inch
and a 6-inch board, or a
lo-inch and an 8-inch board, for
The Side
Pieces.
The boards should be
of i-inch stock,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
358
and should be dressed on both
Figure 445 shows the pattern for the lower boards, with the dimensions for cutting the slants
sides.
on the bow and stern ends.
Cut the Stem-piece like one of the forms shown in Fig.
A
446.
is
neater appearing bow, as side pieces;
B
the simpler form to cut, but
finishes off the ends of the
it
the side boards
the sides of piece B.
If
makes the
fit
form
into the rabbets cut in
A
is
used, the ends of
the side pieces must be finished off by nailing a strip 3 inches wide to the edges of the side pieces and the stempiece (C, Fig. 452).
Figure 447 shows the pattern for The Stern-piece, and Fig. 448 shows the pattern for
The
Stretcher,
both
which should be prepared as
of
soon as the stem-piece has been To put together the
sides,
the stretcher (Fig. 449),
first
cut.
stem-and stern-pieces, and nail
the
ends of the side
them
pieces to the stem-piece, then nail
to the
ends
of
the stretcher, which should be placed in the exact center of the
length of the sides.
Draw
the stern ends toward
each other until they are of the required distance apart for the stern-piece to
fit
between, and tack a temporary
piece across the edges to hold 449).
It is
amount,
them
in position
(Fig.
necessary to bend each side piece the same
in order to turn out a boat
which
will
not have
a tendency to swerve to one side with each stroke of the oars,
and the best way
to get the sides symmetrical
is
by
attaching a cord to a nail driven into the center of the
I
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE end
of
the
stem-piece, stretching
length of the boat and holding stern-piece (Fig. 449) stretcher,
;
if
it
359
along the entire
it
at the center of the
this crosses the center of the
you may know that the work
right,
is
can fasten the stern ends permanently
in
does not cross the stretcher at the center, simple matter to bend one side piece a other a
little
less, until
little
and you
place; it
will
if
it
be a
more and the
the string crosses the center of
the bow, stern, and stretcher in a straight line.
The
may may be
stretcher
or the nails
Fig. 450.
they
may
be fastened permanently driven part
way
in place,
in (Fig. 450) so
— How the Bottom Boards are put On.
be removed and the stretcher taken out after
the center seat has been put in place and the bracing
no longer required.
The
is
top boards of the sides should
be nailed on as soon as the framework has been trued up,
and the ends
of these
should be cut off even with the
stem- and stern-pieces.
The Bottom Boards should be either 4-inch or 6-inch boards of i-inch stock, dressed on two sides and two edges.
Get the dryest material you can,
for the pieces
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
360
must not shrink to any marked degree after being put in place or the seams will open and cause the boat to leak dry stuff will swell when exposed to the water, and ;
up very
the seams will close
The boards must
tight.
Before putting on
not have tongued-and-grooved edges. the boards,
it
be necessary to plane
will
off the
bottom
edges of the side pieces, because, as a result of the
change
in the twist of the
stern, these
edges
will
is
bottom
to.
Do
be slightly curved.
carefully so as to provide a straight nail the
bow and
boards between the
this
work
and true surface
Cut the boards a
little
to
longer than
necessary, and then, starting at the stern end, nail the
pieces in place, driving each board as tight as possible
The edges
against the preceding piece.
of the boards
and the side pieces should be given a thick coat lead to caulk up the seams.
See instructions given on
putting /^^^ 72/
It
of white
the
bottom
(page 353). will not be
attach
a
keel
of
for
the
necessary to
along the entire
length of the bottom of the boat,
but Fig. 451.
— Attachment Skes:.
in I
Fig. 451.
-inch stuff
of
A for
Skeg
should
be
prepared
the sloping stern as shown
This triangular piece may be cut out
and should be
of the
proper size
nailed in place, the lower edge will line straight part of the
bottom
of the boat,
so,
of
when
up with the
and the end
will
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE up with the face
line
361
The
of the stern-piece.
illustration
shows how the piece should be attached and braced with small wooden strips. The skeg must be in an exact line with the center of the
bow and
stern
;
position can be
its
determined by stretching a cord through the centers.
The
end
strip at the
of
the skeg not only holds this
piece to the stern, but forms a strip in which to screw
the screw-eyes for the rudder hooks.
Fasten an Inner Keel Board in the bottom as described
on page 353
for the
Punt.
Seats should be fastened in the
shown
in the center as
ported upon is
to
bow and
cleats,
make them continuous
between the side boards.
bow and
in Fig. 439,
The
Bow
stern seats as
444.
as
shown
of the
will
Batten together the pieces of
shown
you have made stem-piece
Fig. 446), cut strip 3 inches wide,
C
{A,
(Fig. 452)
and long enough
from i^ inches above
the stem-piece side of the
down
under
to the
bottom boards
;
^^^ ^^^.-FiniThingof Bow.
then
prepare two triangular pieces similar to strip
cover the seams
Boat should be
If
wedge-shaped
to extend
in the illustration,
page 354.
completed next. a
and
These should be supand the neatest way to put on the cleats in Fig.
and fasten them low enough so they the
stern ends
C and screw them in place
as
D to
shown.
If
fit
against
stem-piece
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
362
B
was
used (Fig. 446),
(Fig. 452) against
it
fit
in the
two pieces similar
to
D
same way.
For the Painter secure a small staple, and a yacht or harness iron ring, and attach these to the
bow
as
shown
in Fig. 452.
An
Easily
Made Rudder
is
shown
in Figs.
453
to 457.
Figure 453 shows it completed; Fig. 454 shows how screweyes are screwed into the strip fastened to the stern-piece,
Fig. 453.
Fig. 456
Fig. 454Figs. 453-457.
into
which
to
hook the rudder hooks and
and 457 show the
The
— Details of an Easily Made Rudder. ;
Figs. 455, 456,
details for constructing the rudder.
rudder (Fig. 457) should be mortised to receive the end of the rudder, as shown, cross-bar of
the
and a hole should be bored through the rudder through which to drive a pin to hold the cross-bar in place
Get two 7-inch iron hooks {A, Fig. 456), bend the ends out straight, and then bend a new 4-inch hook on each {B, Fig. 456). Screw these hooks in the (Fig. 455).
A HOME-MADE SHARPIE proper positions so they
will
hook
^6s
into the screw-eyes in
the stern.
The Rowlock Blocks should be prepared and attached as shown in Fig. 441 or Fig. 443, page 354, and either Rowlocks
or Thole-pins
should be
fitted into
them
(Figs.
440 and 442, page 354). Finish the Boat as directed for the P?iu^ (see page 355)-
—
'jl:'
r^
—
m——rn — I
r"
I
r'
\
I
T-
I
CHAPTER XXIV PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER
HOME-MADE WAGONS '.Wy-.-jlh-wv-i/i
With make
all
cart to
-^T
the necessary wheels in hand, sorts of wagons,
a
own
It
is
possible to
from a simple two-wheeled dog-
There are
model automobile.
a
number
which a boy can procure wheels
sources from doesn't
-
\\\-
of
he
if
Oftentimes a pair can be picked up
any.
second-hand store or at a junk shop, for 50 or 75 cents a pair; sometimes a neighbor who has a grown son
at a
can find a few for you by a
shed or barn
loft;
whom you can
A
and often you
strike a
cycle, velocipede,
Pushmobile
when
rummaging through
the
run across a boy with
will
Wagon, bicycle,
good bargain.
tri-
and baby-carriage wheels may be used. is
home-made wagon simple wagons which
a unique form of
that has been developed
the boys used to
little
make
from the
for coasting,
the automobile was
and
for
pushing from
unknown.
is
pat-
terned as nearly as possible after an automobile, and
it is
behind,
It
pushed by the mechanician, who runs behind, while the driver rides and attends to the steering. tails for
making one
in Figs.
458
of these
to 471. 364
Working
de-
unique wagons are shown
Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile Club Races.
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS
Towne
Paul the
boy
first
rivalry
of Flushing,
to build a
Long
Island,
365
was probably
pushmobile, and as a result of the
which sprang up among the boys who made
Fig. 458.
— A Pushmobile.
similar "machines," each of
vantages for his
whom
claimed superior ad-
car,
The Flushing Pushmobile Club was organized
autumn
of
1906 for the purpose of promoting pushmo-
The Brooklyn Daily
bile races.
in the
Tzjnes of Dec. 15, 1906,
contained an interesting account of the work of the club,
from which the following details are taken
:
—
/'The Flushing Club has held reer.
The
first
of several of its races
three great races during
was an intersuburban
affair
its
active ca-
and was to determine
whether championship honors should go to Flushing, College Point, or Bayside, membership in the club being from tries.
The honors
in this race
all
these
went to Flushing,
*
foreign
'
for President
counPaul
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
366
Towne and
his brother
Herbert were the winners.
Many
for the Vanderbilt cup, so called.
ing merchants contributed toward tion
came from Mr.
Vanderbilt.
According to the deed of
come
gift
the
the property of the winner.
fluke, for the car
it,
The second
of the Murray Hill and Flush-
but the largest individual subscrip-
The trophy was valued at over 1^50. trophy must be won three times to beThe first race for this cup ended in a
winning the race was protested.
that the race should
be run over.
and Lawrence, who won the
first
The
under the circumstances.
race was
The second race.
It
was then decided
event was
won by Brown
This was a very popular victory
was a race
third big event
Reiger
for the
cup, a beautiful trophy presented by Charles Reiger of Flushing.
event brought out the cars in the race.
This
strength of the club, for there were twenty
full
The trophy was won by Donahue and Johnson."
The photographs
show
opposite page 364
several of
the competing machines, while those opposite this page
show the
start of
one
of the club's races
The winning team
winning teams.
and one
of the
in
The Vanderbilt Cup Race covered the course, which was ten times around a city block, in 27 minutes and 12 seconds.
You
This was one
of the
most interesting
races.
by the photographs that the boys have shown considerable ingenuity in working out the plans for
will notice
their
pushmobiles.
Various
kinds
and
sizes
of
wheels have been used; some of the bodies are built low
and others high
;
some
of the
after foreign racing machines,
models have been copied
and others have been
terned after roadsters and runabouts.
been made
The hoods have
of grocery boxes, sheet metal, barrel
covered with canvas, or built up with box boards boy,
who wanted
pat-
;
hoops
and one
to get the pointed nose effect of the
Winning Car
Xi
iiiE
Start Off.
in
A
the V^anderbilt Cup Race
111 suing Pi shmobile Club Race.
•
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS French
used the sawed-o£f bow of a row boat for
racer,
To furnish
his.
and
the " chug," " chug,"
dummy
automobile, one lad equipped a line engine,
367
and
"
smell
the
car with a gaso-
was run over the course
this
" of
for the
benefit of the spectators.
The Brooklyn Daily Times published interesting Description of a Pushmobile Race "Is a pushmobile race exciting? tators
who crowd
interesting as a real auto race.
score-cards, pencils,
come to
that one leads.
One
The
car
is
There are spurts
This car
gaining a lap on in
it is
happens,
only there
The
first
is
with
The
cars
takes an expert
now ahead, and then
is
the rest and looks like a
which the boys on the cars use every
not a breakdown
woman
by each man and finish.
all
It
As the contest comes
Now
seen that some two or three are leading.
if
almost as
cars are timed for each lap.
at a time.
of strength and endurance they possess. close,
is
men and women
be
will
it
not more, than in the big races.
the records accurately.
all
winner.
There
and half a dozen
singly, three, four,
keep
if
you that
will tell
and stop-watches.
Seconds count as much,
—
:
Ask any of the hundreds of spec-
They
the course.
the following
!
That
with the score-card.
is
the
Then
if
bit
to a
no accident
hope expressed the rush for the
car to complete the ten laps, and then the figuring for
elapsed time, and finally the declaration of the winner and the shouts for the successful car."
Now, boys, if you have not become after reading the
fired
with enthusiasm
above accounts of the
work
of
the
Flushing Pushmobile Club, the author has missed his
work and construct a machine like the one shown in Fig. 458 and described upon the following pages, then show it to your boy friends, and the
guess
;
if
you
have, get to
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
368
chances are there
be enough machines in your town
will
make
within a few days to
it
possible to
a Pushmobile Club, or to
Organize
make pushmobile
racing a feature of your present neighborhood or school club.
When
To construct a Pushmobile.
procuring wheels
for a pushmobile, get the iron axle rods
washers that belong to the wheels, easy enough to are lost, but
if
refit
New
;
will
it
nuts and washers to the axles
you
A
Axles.
fit
if
be
they
find another
have
will
the proper diameter to
procured
possible
you cannot get the axles or
pair that will do,
To make
if
and nuts and
couple of round iron rods of
the hubs of your wheels can be
almost any hardware store, wagon shop, or
at
blacksmith shop, and you can have them
proper length,
and
threaded for nuts,
cut
to
the
drilled
in
two
places near each end, by a machinist, plumber, or gasfitter.
You
wagon
before you can determine the length for the rods,
and
have
will
of course the length of the
The
be considered also. for
to decide
an iron
pin, the
from running too hole
is
made
first
upon the width wheel hubs
hole in the rod
purpose of which
far
will
back on the
is
to
axle,
is
of
your
have to
provided
keep the wheel
and the second
for a stove-bolt or screw for fastening the
iron axle to the
wooden
axle and
wagon-bed (Figs. 477
and 478). The Wooden Axles should be constructed first (Figs. 459 and 460). The sizes of these will depend upon the
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS
369
length of the iron axles, the height of the wheels, and
The drawings
whether you want a high or low body.
show
a machine with a
body that
higher than most of
is
^
E D
B-^
~D Iron Brace Fig. 460.
— The
Fig. 461.
that
shown
is
in the
— The
Rear Axle.
photographs, but this makes a car
easier for the mechanician to push, for he does
much.
After cutting out
B and ^ of
the proper widths
to stoop over as
not have piece
Fig. 459.
for the
Front Axle.
Front Axle.
those
— Brace
A, you must make
so the top of
B will
wheels are in place.
C
is
fastened to
B
A
when the by means of a
be level with the top of
king-bolt (Fig. 460).
Connect the wooden axles by means of a piece of 2by-2 {D, Figs. 459 to 462), and brace the king-bolt of the front axle to this strip with an iron strap, to prevent
it
from bending (Fig. 461); the brace should be about |inch thick and i inch wide, and should be bent and drilled as
shown
in Fig. 461.
The Wagon-bed pieces B^ and the tops of axle pieces
These
will
make your For the
A
B are 2-by-4's and connect
and B,
to
which they are
nailed.
be of whatever length you have determined to car.
Steering-wheel
driving-wheel,
if
possible,
get
an old sewing-machine
and use a broom-handle
for a
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
370
(The
front
end
Fig. 462.
— Framework of the Push mobile.
of the strip
F is
broken
off so that
you can see the
Serew the wheel
shaft (Fig. 463).
steering-gear.)
to the
end
of the
broom-handle (Fig. 465). If you cannot get a sewingmachine wheel, a wooden or iron wagon-wheel may be
The
wired to the end of the broom-handle (Fig. 466). -^<~. 1\^
Fig. 465.
Screw
must be provided with a drum upon which shaft
to fasten the steering ropes
(Figs. 462 this
Drum
— Steering-wheel — Three Disks
— How
machine Wheel Fig. 466.
Wheel
and Shaft
— How
to a
SewingBroom-handle.
to attach a
to a to
shown in Fig. 464. Lay out the center block
as
like these for
of Steering-wheel Shaft.
Fig. 465.
mxade
Fig. 464.
Pushmobile.
for the
Fig. 464.
drum should be
out of three circular blocks
Fig. 463.
Fig. 463.
and 463), and
wire
Broom-handle.
a
Wagon
3 inches in diameter,
and
the outer, or flange, blocks
4 inches before
in diameter,
cutting
and
them out
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS bore a i-inch hole through the center of each.
371
Nail the
drum over the fasten the drum
blocks together, and slip the completed
end
broom-handle
of the
in place until after
but do not
;
you have mounted the shaft on the
framework.
G
Fasten a board to the wagon-bed, as shown at
on blocks similar
462),
to the
to
H and /; the blocks must be cut
proper slant so the position of the board
at right angles to the steering-wheel shaft.
the cross-piece
and
Board
nails.
through
/to
its
the under side of strip
G
should have a
connect the
fasten
D with
a bolt
i-inch hole bored
way through
some strong
take
drum on
rope, pass
it
be
Then
strip
in line with the hole in G, for a socket for the
To
will
center for the steering shaft to turn
a hole should be bored part
shaft.
(Fig.
D,
in,
and
directly
end
of the
the shaft to the wheels,
around the drum, cross the
ends on the underside (Fig. 463), run them through screweyes screw^ed into the cross-piece /on each side of strip
D, and attach them
to the
ends of the wooden
important to cross the rope after passing
it
axle.
around the
drum, for otherwise the pushmobile w^ould turn left
when you
When fasten the
It is
to the
turn the wheel to the right, and vice versa.
the steering-gear has been carefully adjusted,
drum
to the shaft with a screw,
nail the steering line to the
drum
;
and screw or
also drive a pin into
the broom-handle about \ inch in front of board
G
to pre-
vent the shaft from pulling out of place (Figs. 462 and 463)-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
372
When the it is
frame of the pushmobile has been completed,
a simple matter to finish the body.
The Hood
is
made out of
a box with the cover
and bottom
removed, and a three-sided top constructed upon
cannot find a box of the right large box or build the
hood out
size,
it.
If
you
you can cut down a
of boards.
Figures 458
Fig. 470,
— Radiator-front. — Lard-can Headlight and Bracket. Fig. 469. — Clock-case and Can for Side Lamps. Fig. 470. — The Completed Clock-case Side Lamp. Fig. 471. — Seat for Auto Wagon. Fig. 467.
Fig. 468.
and 467 show the shape of the top. Fasten a small pill box to the top of the hood, as shown, for the cap to the "radiator" (Fig. 458).
After fastening the hood to the frame of the pushmobile, tack a piece of screen wire over the front for
The Radiator-front, and then attach a the edge, as
shown
strip of tin
in Fig. 467, to finish
it off.
around
\
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS
373
body are made out of a box cut down, and the rear end is built up of boards. The
Seat, back,
and arms
Two
Headlights.
of the
lard cans with their covers fitted
make splendid imitation headlights (Fig. 468). wooden brackets similar to A (Fig. 468), nail them
to the sides
of
on
Cut two or screw
the radiator-front, and then nail
or screw the cans to the brackets and to the radiatorfront.
Side Lamps.
Bicycle lamps
you can make lamps out
of
may
be used for these, or
the cases of two old alarm-
clocks (Figs. 469 and 470).
To make a Clock-case Side Lamp, remove the works from the case and put back the screws necessary to hold the glass in place of the
;
bottom
then cut a f-inch hole through the center for the candle,
and wire the case
top of a small tin can of about the size of a
i
to the
-pound
paint can, punching holes through the clock-case and the can through which to run
down
sets tin
back
in the
can and
of the clock-case.
is
the wire.
The
candle
lighted by removing the
Nail or screw the case to the
side of the hood.
Paint your Machine with two coats of paint, using any color
you choose.
body
of
Of course you
will
one color and the trimmings
want
to
make
the
of another.
Paint your License Number upon the radiator-front with
white or red paint.
A
Racing Pushmobile
may have
a
than the machine just described, or
much simpler body you may make por-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
374
tions removable so the
machine may be dismantled
for a
race.
An Auto Wagon. body
The wagon shown
built similar to that of the
Fig. 472.
the bed
is
made
in Fig.
472 has a
pushmobile, except that
— An Auto Wagon.
solid out of boards
i
inch thick.
Make
the sides out of 8-inch boards with a 2-inch strip nailed
along the top edge, and make the dashboard out of two pieces of board battened together.
The Steering-wheel should be made out of a sewingmachine wheel and piece of gas-pipe as shown in Fig. 473.
Get a
gas-fitter to
prepare a piece of gas-pipe with
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS a
T connection
T
run through the tion,
and have him
of pipe near the
one end, and a short piece
at
crosswise, as
of pipe
in the illustra-
a hole through the vertical piece
drill
upper end, and two holes through the
— one near each end.
cross-piece
shown
375
Screw two screw-eyes
into the inside face of the dashboard, then slip the steer-
ing shaft through a hole bored through the bottom of the wagon-bed, and through the screw-
Fasten the wheel to the end of
eyes.
the pipe by
means of
through the hole
in the
Screw-eve
pipe and wheel
some wire around the pipe
hub, wrap
on a
a metal pin driven
line with the top of the
and solder
it
in place, to
dashboard,
keep the pipe
from slipping down (Fig. 473), and run rope or chain from the ends of the lower
Fig. 473.
— Details
of
Sewing-machine Wheel and Gas-pipe
a
cross-piece to the axle ends.
The steering Steering: wheel. shaft and cross-piece may be made of wood, but of course the iron pipe scheme is much stronger and is much better Another Steering-gear.
in the case of the
auto wagon, where the weight of the
comes directly over the wheels, bringing a greater If you want to, you may rig up strain upon each part. a dummy steering-wheel and shaft, and provide for steer-
driver
ing by running ropes from the axle ends around the sides of the
wagon
attend to
method
it.
to the back, It
where the mechanician can
might be a good plan
of steering,
anyway, so
to provide for this
in case
you give a child
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
376
a ride at
any time you can place him
do the steering yourself from the Build the Seat as into each of the
to hold
end
wagon it
shown
of the seat, in the
rear.
in Fig. 471,
and screw a hook
and a screw-eye into each side
proper position for
securely to the
and
in the front seat
wagon
it
to
hook
into,
sides.
Procure a Trip Gong for the front of the dashboard, or
upon
fasten an electric bell side of the
A
2-inch plank, 6 or 8 inches
should be procured for
Fig. 474.
The Wagon-bed but of course thicker
in-
wagon.
Figure 474 shows A Simple Push Wagon. in width,
and place a dry battery
it
piece
it
;
— A Simple Push Wagon.
a board will
would
i
may be
inch thick
used,
not have the stiffness that have.
Also
get
a
strong
the box.
PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE VVAGOxNS
377
knock out one end, nail a cleat to the ends of the side and bottom boards to hold them together, and fasten the box to one end of the wagon-bed as shown in Figs. 474 and 475. The Rear Wheels should be 16 or 18 inches in diameter and should set under the center of the box (Fig. 475). Nail two blocks of the same thickness as the wagon-bed to the
bottom
of the box,
and fasten the axle across them .NUT
/^Washer
-Batten
— Bottom View of Wagon-bed. — The Way attach the Rear Axle. attach the Front Axle. Figs. 478 and 479. — The Way
Fig. 475.
Figs. 476 and 477.
to
to
running a stove-bolt or screw through the holes (Figs. 477 and 478), and using either staples or nails bent over as additional fastenings (Figs. 476 to
as shown,
Drive a metal pin through the outer hole in the axles to keep the hubs of the wheels from rubbing against the wood (Figs. 477 and 478).
478).
The Axle
for the Front
Wheels
is
fastened to a
wooden
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
378
axle (Fig. 478),
which
in turn is pivoted to
bed by means of a king-bolt as shown 479.
in
the wagon-
Figs. 478 and
Bore a hole through the wagon-bed for the
bolt,
and put washers where shown before screwing the nut in place.
T'lI
I
,
CHAPTER XXV BIRD-HOUSES \\v
-iih-\\\^//l
\\\
Birds seem to show a practical rather than an sense in choosing their homes, and, unlike
us,
artistic
do not care
whether their houses are plain or highly ornamented.
A
common box
an
attraction
as
properly arranged
is
one on which a great deal
been spent in working out fancy doorways,
provided
it
ample protection from and where there insects
food
for
will
placed
is
roofs,
of
porches, and
and other enemies
cats
of
time has
where there
will
be
of birds,
be a plentiful supply of seeds and
near
by,
and
water for
But carefully designed houses,
bath.
much
just as
drink and
of course,
appear
more pleasing to us, so it is best to take pains in planning and constructing our garden neater
and
bird homes.
Tomato
cans, apple
and sugar
barrels, fish kegs, nail
kegs and white lead kegs, cheese boxes, butter
firkins,
wooden pails, and small boxes such as soap and starch come in can be procured by any boy, and from these ma-
many kinds of houses that can be made. variety of new ideas for easily made houses
terials there are
You
will find a
379
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
38o ill
this chapter,
and the materials mentioned are
suffi-
cient for the greater part of the construction of these.
A Box
Bird-house such as
made out pieces
shown
is
in Fig.
480 can be
may
cut out the
an empty starch box, or you
of
and put together the box
In case you
yourself.
make
the box, the
top edge of the end pieces can be cut
slanted to allow for Fig. 480. Details of a
the
Fig. 481.
Box Lean-to
Bird-house.
but
ready-made box, a triangular piece to the
edges {A, Fig. 481),
will
slanted
roof,
you use a
if
have
to
be added
you make the box, cut the
If
center partition, which divides the box into two bird com-
partments, the same size as the end pieces; but for a box already made, cut this piece
and then use
first
it
for a pat-
tern for laying. out the triangular pieces to be added to the
The doorway
ends. knife
;
in
each end can be cut with a jack-
this will be very easy to
pieces, for
do
if
the ends are in two
one half of the hole can be cut out of the edge
of
each piece (Fig. 481).
For wrens and other small birds the holes need not be more than i inches in diameter; and 3 inches will admit J-
any
of the larger birds that
may
be attracted to your
boxes.
After the ends of the box have been pieced out, nail a strip to the
back
to
the roof board large
make
it
enough
of the
so
it
same
height, then cut
will project
about
i
inch
BIRD-HOUSES
381
over the front and ends of the box, and nail Fit the perch sticks into holes bored in the
box as shown
may be mounted upon
look better
will
if
A
and nailed
to the wall, or a
or 8
than the box
longer
inches
may
a clothes-post, but
wooden bracket may be cut out
its roof.
6
ends of the
bracketed to a wall on account of
the style of
strip
in place.
in Fig. 480.
This house it
it
be nailed to
the back and the ends of this nailed to the wall (Fig. 480).
Another Box Bird -house
shown
in
Fig. 482.
is
This
is
similar to a house which the
boys of some of the Chicago public structed
schools
and placed
trees of the
addition
The how
have
of
conin
the
parks, with
the
pan
the
bath. Fig.
482,
— Another
Box
Bird-
shows clearly house with a Pan for Drinking Water. the back, sides, and roof are cut and fitted together, and how the water pan is bracketed out from the low^er end of the back board, and I
am
illustration
going to
let
you work out the
sizes for the various
what you think they ought to be. The lower portion of the back board may be screwed or nailed to a wall or post, or if you omit the pan and place the box in a tree, it can be tied securely by running pieces according to
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
382
a piece of clothes-line several times around
it
and the
tree
trunk.
A
cheese-box cover and one of the small kegs in which
mackerel and herring come to the market furnishes the materials for
A
making
shown in Fig. 483. The keg must be thoroughly washed out with hot water and either Bird Tower such as
washing soda or
remove the
lye,
fish odor.
is
and should be painted Bore four openings
inside, to
in the side of
the keg, and fasten a perch stick in a
small hole below each opening.
The illustration shows the keg mounted upon the end
of a rug-pole, but
cannot get one
you
the top of a
these,
of
if
clothes-post, or a piece of 2-by-4 set into
the
ground,
will
serve
the
purpose.
Nail the keg to the support, then set top and
the cheese-box cover on it
nail
in place.
The lower perches should run through the support as
and may be
shown
in the illustration,
of pieces of
broken
flagstaffs
or cabinet-maker's dowel sticks.
Figure 487 shows Fig. 487.
—A
Tin
can Bird Tower.
A
Tin-can Bird Tower.
This
out of empty tomato cans.
Is
made
Cut a hole
i^ inches in diameter in the side of three cans about i^ inches
from the top; do not remove the piece
of tin,
3D
o
CO
O
Q
ac
O
QO
6 Cm
BIRD-HOUSES but bend
3^3
out as shown in Fig. 488 to form a perch.
it
Then remove
the top of one can {A, Fig. 489) and the top and bottom of the other two
As
cans {B and C, Fig. 489).
the
ends are generally soldered on, is
ch
it
only necessary to hold a can over
D a flame until the solder melts, and
then
The
knock them
(Fig.
off
cans are joined
488).
together by
means of two circular blocks of wood {£ and /% Fig. 489), which divide
also
the
^
tower into three
compartments.
A
6-inch
tin
roof (D, Fig. 489),
and
a piece of a hatpin
(G)
fits
forms the
funnel
Fig. 488.
a cork with
stuck
into
it
Fig. 489.
into the spout of the funnel
for a spire.
Figs. 488 and 489.
Tack the edges of the cans to the wooden blocks, and wire the funnel roof to the upper can as shown in one end
of
to a small
— De-
of the Tin-can Bird
Tower shown
in Fig. 487.
Fig. 487, fastening
each wire to the funnel rim and the other end staple driven into the
the wires until the funnel to the top of
is
firm.
upper block.
Twist
Nail the bottom can
whatever support you provide for the tower.
Paint the tin to prevent
The Bird Castle shown built
tails
it
from rusting. in
Fig.
by the author a few years ago
484 was designed and for his garden.
The
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
384
corner towers of this are built like the tower in Fig. 487.
The
castle
measures 12 inches long,
inches high at the highest point, and the lowest point, and
is
made out
of
inches wide, 16
7
inches high at
1 1
box boards.
Figure 490 shows an end view of the castle with the tower of the opposite end in position. First cut the two
end pieces H, and a third piece
same shape and tion,
of the
size for a center parti-
then nail the front and back boards
/ and /
to
Cut the pieces
them.
K
dicated by the dotted lines
in-
to
fit
between the center partition and the end pieces, for a loft floor. Cut an opening for each compartment
in the
end pieces (Fig. 490). Nail the roof boards
— EndJ ^T View
place and fasten strip ^ ^
shown in Fig. 484, with One Tower in Position.
at the front (Fig. 490),
ir
Fig. 490.
X7
of Bird Castle
L
N
and
M
in
to the base
then mount the
^ platform II inches wide ^
^^^^j^ ^ ^ ^
and
24
inches
long.
Build
towers at the two corners, and nail each can corner of the castle as you put
The drawbridge
it
up the to
the
in place.
{O, Fig. 490) measures
2-J-
inches by
and suspend the other end by small brass chains fastened to the under 3I inches
side
and
;
hinge one end
to the
base
strip,
to the front wall.
Each can
of the towers has a circular
opening cut
in
it,
but the long narrow windows in the towers and front wall
BIRD-HOUSES
385
and the large doorway are painted. The walls should be painted white, and the roof green or red. of the castle
The nails
and the weather-vane are mounted upon stuck into corks, and the corks are pushed into the little flag
spouts of the funnels (Fig. 490).
Set a cup in the plat-
The
form, at each end. for drinking water.
castle
be bracketed upon a wall as shown in Fig. 484, or
may may
be mounted upon a post.
A
For the bird ark show^n
Bird Ark.
in Fig. 485, three
cans are joined together in the same manner as those of the towers are joined (Figs. 488 and 489).
Both ends
the center can are removed, but the bottom
end cans.
Cut a i|-inch hole
is left
of
on the
in the side of the center
same diameter through the bottom of each end can do not remove the pieces of tin from the openings, but bend them out for perches as shown. Cut the roof boards of the proper size to project over the ends and sides of the cans, nail them together, and then fasten them in place by driving nails through the boards can and a hole
of the ;
into the connecting blocks
between the cans.
Fasten the ark between blocks upon a board platform, then mount the platform upon a post support, and brace the supports with
brackets
to
make
it
Run
secure.
several perch sticks through the brackets, as shown.
A
Wall Bracket Bird Ark (Fig. 491).
same way
structed in the
the shape of sticks
is
shown
is
as the ark described above,
the brackets
clearly
This
and arrangement
in the illustration.
of
con-
and
perch
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
386
A
House and Swing made out of a wooden
and bracketed
to a wall as
Fig. 491.
shown
in Fig. 486, so that its
— a Wall Bracket Bird Ark.
handle hangs down and forms a swing, little
pail inverted
is
an attractive
house for the back yard.
Make
the vertical partition to divide the pail into two
compartments, and cut a circular piece the top.
board to
of
fit
Nail the roof board to the bottom of the
cut an opening into each compartment, and
fit
in
pail,
a small
wood beneath each opening for a platform. a short block of wood to the wall where the house
block of Nail is
to go, for the pail to rest on,
the proper height above
it
and
nail a
longer strip at
to nail the roof board to.
The Hanging House shown
in
Fig. 492
may
be
made
from a 25-pound or a 12^-pound white lead keg, which can be procured from any painter.
Cut the square roof
board wide enough to project 3 or 4 inches over the sides of the keg, and bore two holes in the proper positions for
BIRD-HOUSES the wire handles to run through.
have a perch fastened below
means shown
it.
387
Each opening should Suspend the house by
two cords as
of
in the illustration.
Birds seek the protection of
trees,
roof eaves,
and covered ways during storms, and
A
Shelter on the
shown
in
plan
Fig.
493 will make your yard
help to
a popular resort at such
You
times.
also will find
Fig. 492.
A
Hanging House.
that the birds will fly to
these perches to dry and
preen their feathers after
taking their morning baths.
Figure 494 shows one of the two uprights which support the perches and roof.
These may be cut
Fig. 493
out of strips 3 or 4 inches wide.
Miter the top ends
as shown,
— that
is,
cut off
Figs. 493 and 494.
— A Shelter.
the two corners at an angle of 45 degrees; holes
A
and
B
i
below the top and
inch in diameter,
B
A
— bore
about
3
the
inches
6 inches below that again, and then
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
388
slip a piece of
keep them
broom-handle through two of the holes
and
in line,
nail the
to
lower ends to opposite
sides of a clothes-post, or to a post set into the
ground
especially for the purpose.
The long perch
sticks are pieces of broom-handle,
and
the small ones are cabinet-maker's dowel sticks, broken flagstaffs,
diameter.
The
bored through latter
about | inch in small perch sticks are run through holes
or sticks
the
whittled
round,
broom-handle, after the
pieces of
have been slipped through
the
holes
in
the
uprights.
Cut the roof boards about i8 inches long, one 12 inches in width, and the other as
much
to allow for the lapping of edges.
less as is
necessary
Nail the face of the
wide piece to the edge of the narrow one, and whittle a short
wooden
spire
and
stick
it
into a hole bored in the
peak; then set the roof on the end of the uprights, shift it
until its projection at the
ends
is
the same,
and drive a
couple of nails through the roof boards into the uprights to hold
it
in position.
CHAPTER XXVI HOUSES FOR PETS \V-ilh-\\\^///
Although
-
--
\\\
boy does not have as good an opportunity to keep pets as his country cousin has, he the
city
manages
generally
own
to
a dog, unless he lives in an
apartment building, and often there
The
space in a wood-
which he can keep a few pets such white rats, fancy mice, and pigeons.
shed or a barn as rabbits,
is
in
of a
size
dog-house depends upon the
size of
the dog, so get your dog and see what he looks like before
you build
his kennel
breed, be sure to
;
but
make
if
you get a pup
of a large
the house plenty large
to allow for his growth, otherwise
you
will
soon have to
remodel the house or trade the dog for one that
A or
Dog-house
may be
built
omitted
size,
in
will
fit.
constructed out of packing-boxes
up of any boards you can
find about
Figure 495 shows a well-planned house of
the place.
medium
may be
enough
with
a
feature
building one
which
— provision
is
too frequently
for ventilation.
upon the ground, the floor usually damp, for there is little or no chance for it dry out after a rain, but by raising it a few inches the house
is
set directly
389
If is
to
as
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
390
shown
by mounting
in the illustration
and boring a number
of holes
Fig. 495.
it
upon a
through the base, the
base, floor
— A Dog-house.
(See working-drawings on page 89.)
never comes
in contact with the
circulation of
air,
will
which
ground, and a constant
will pass in
and out
of the holes,
keep the ground underneath dry.
Figure 92 on page 89 shows complete w^orkingdrawings for this dog-house, it having been taken for
an example
in explaining the proper
out a sheet of working details.
method
for laying
Of course you may
alter
the dimensions on the drawings to suit your needs. First
construct a frame
for the
base
of
the house,
then cut the floor boards of the proper size and nail
them
to
the
top
edge
of
the four walls in sections,
the
base.
Next construct
making the two
sides alike
HOUSES FOR PETS
The
front
is
covered with wire netting tacked to
a frame, and the frame also
will
length of the box
hinged
is
Make
form a door.
and
be notched and
place so that
;
2
inches
use strips about of
2
less
inches
the strips may-
together as shown, or they
fitted
it
the frame equal to the
The ends
inch thick.
i
in
width about
in
than the width of the box
wide and
393
may
be mitered, like the corners of picture-frames. Galvanized easiest for
Poultry-netting
most boys
front of the hutch.
the
is
probably
material
procure for covering the open
to
This
is
made
in
widths ranging from
inches to 72 inches, and can be had in i-inch, i^-
12
inch,
and 2-inch mesh
formed by the crossed
(the
meshes are the openings
plenty small enough for large size
is
The
wires).
mesh
large
rabbits, but the
best for breeding hutches, as the
can crawl through larger openings.
little
is
i-inch
fellows
Poultry-netting has
an hexagonal-shaped mesh. Twist Wire Cloth
is
another form of covering which
very good for the purpose.
Its
meshes are somewhat
similar to those of poultry netting, but are
and ^ inch wide. Wire Cloth has a square mesh door and window screens.
is
i
inch long
like the wire
The
used for
heavier grades
are
and are often used. Buy small nettmg staples with which to put on the
suitable for rabbit-hutches
wire netting or cloth.
After covering the frame with the netting or cloth,
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
394
hinge
it
to the top
2-inch steel butts.
box and
of the
directly
2
hutch with three 2-by-
edge
of the
Then
cut a strip of just the length
inches wide, and hinge
bottom
to the
it
below the frame with a pair of 2-by-2-inch
Screw a hook
into each
end
of the strip,
butts.
and fasten a
screw-eye or nail into each end of the box in the proper place for the
hook
to catch
on
Cut
to.
a couple
of
wooden buttons, bore a hole through the center of each large enough for a screw to slip through, and screw them to the
bottom hinge-strip about 12 inches from the ends frame closed (Fig.
for button catches to hold the wire
The
497).
hinge-strip
is
provided to keep the sawdust,
or other floor covering, from dropping out of the hutch
every time the front so
it
may
is
opened, and
it is
hinged
in place
be dropped as shown in Fig. 496 when clean-
ing out the hutch, to the old sawdust. nail a strip of
make
easier the
To hold open
wood
to
work
of
removing
the front while cleaning,
one end of the hutch, and fasten
a hook in the edge of the frame and a screw-eye in the
proper position in the stick for
it
to
hook
into, as
shown
in Fig. 496.
The hutch should set up on something high enough keep
it
at least
to
18 inches above the ground or floor, as
rabbits are very sensitive to dampness.
may be the hutch may
Brackets
fastened to a wall at the proper height, or
be placed upon an overturned packing-box. If
you intend
A
Breeding Hutch, in
you should have addition to this hutch which
to raise rabbits,
will
HOUSES FOR PETS
395
then be used to ke^p the male rabbit in after the baby rabbits have arrived.
The breeding hutch may
be con-
same size as that used for the hutch just described, but one end must be partitioned off for a nest, and a doorway 5 inches wide and 6 inches high must be cut through the partition to connect it with the main runway of the hutch. The nest must be kept structed out of a box of the
dark, so, instead of running the wire front along the length, tition.
it
must be stopped
off
upon a
full
line with the par-
In place of the wire, hinge a board over this por-
This provides a doorway by which the nest can be reached from the outside.
tion.
The Two-story Rabbit-hutch shown
Fig. 498.
in Fig.
— A Two-story Rabbit-hutch with
498
is
Yard Beneath.
made
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
ig6
portable so
it
may be taken
severe weather, and
end
is
to a place of shelter
provided with a handle at either
Then by
convenience in carrying.
for
during
stretching
wire netting or wire cloth around the supports, which
should be i8 inches or more high, a good playground provided
in
which your
"
bunnies
If
you can
inches
find a
wide,
Remove
them
in while
is
also a conven-
you clean out the hutch.
packing-box i8 inches deep,
and 4
is
can be allowed to run
This yard
about for a while each day. ient place to put
"
feet long, use
1
8 or 20
that for the hutch.
the boards from one side of the box (which will
be the front of the hutch), then rip up two of the boards removed,, into pieces 3 or 4 inches wide, and nail these to the front,
Fig. 499.
one
at the top of the
box {A, Fig. 499) and
— The Two-story Rabbit-hutch before the Roof has been put On.
the other at the bottom B.
Upon
the inside of the
back boards, mark out a 14-inch square feed and cleanout door 6 inches from one end, and a 6-by-io-inch door-
way
to the
compartments
3
inches from the other end.
Before cutting out these openings, nail a vertical batten
HOUSES FOR PETS
397
across the boards each side of the Hnes to hold the cut
ends together.
Cut enough boards second-story
of the
proper length to make the
batten them together upon the under
floor,
and cut a 5-by-io-inch stairway opening about 18 inches from one end, and in the center of the width of
side,
the floor
;
fasten this to the ends
midway between
and back
and bottom
the top
of the
{C, Fig. 499).
box
Then
prepare two partitions with an arched doorway about
5
inches wide and 6 inches high cut in each, and fasten
one
in
each story
ment end
1
inches away from the compart-
2
hutch (Fig. 499). gular pieces and nail one to the top the
of
the
of
Cut three of
trian-
each end piece
hutch for gable-ends, and one to the
top
of
partition D{-E, Fig. 499).
Cut a piece long for it
to
stairs,
of
board
5
inches wide and about 18 inches
and tack a number
of small cross-pieces to
keep the rabbits from slipping while running up
Hinge the
and down.
stairs to the
second floor with a
small hinge, or. a piece of leather, and leave the lower end loose so
it
may
be raised up out of the way every time
you clean out the
first story.
Board up the front
and
A
of the
nail a vertical strip of the
same width
(Fig. 498),
as the top rail
B (Fig.
499) to the opposite end Cover the remainder of the front with wire
and the bottom
of the hutch.
compartments
rail
netting or cloth, and tack of the wire to conceal the
wooden
strips
over the edges
rough ends (Fig. 498).
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
398
Make
the door to the compartments out of a single
board, and the feed door out of several pieces battened
Hinge the doors
together.
in place,
and provide them
any danger
of curious
ones opening the hutch while you are away.
Leather
with hasps and padlocks,
may
strips
if
there
is
be substituted for iron hinges, and wooden
may
buttons or hooks
be used in place of hasps,
if
the
hutch does not require a padlock.
For breeding purposes the stairway may be omitted; then the doe and her young can be kept by themselves in
one
story; but
it is
better to build separate one-story
breeding hutches.
The Rabbit Yard.
As you must know,
if
you have had
any experience with raising them, rabbits are great burrowers and will dig under the walls of any inclosure you can build for them, unless you provide a floor or carry the walls
down below
their reach.
keeping them within a small yard
The is
best
method
for
to extend the wire
netting with which you cover the framework about i8
inches below the surface of the ground.
After laying out
the lines of the framework of the yard, dig a trench on four sides to the required
depth, then set
all
up the four
corner posts, which should be long enough to stand at least
1
8 inches above the ground, and nail on the top
pieces, the baseboards,
and the side braces.
Then
stretch
framework and tack it in place; at the gate end cut the wire off at grade and fasten it to the baseboard. Construct the gate as shown, cover it on the the wire around the
HOUSES FOR PETS outside with netting, hinge
and provide If
the
it
it
to
of the corner posts,
with a hook.
ground where you build the yard
some sod and plant
it
raising
of
is
bare, dig
up
inside of the inclosure, so your
rabbits will have grass to play
The
one
399
white
rats
profitable business for boys,
time and an expenditure
in.
and fancy mice
and
of
it
is
requires very
a
little
only a dollar for a pair
to start with.
A
Cage for White Rats or fancy mice should be con-
structed out of a box about 14 inches deep, 14 inches
«g*=^
P'iG. 500.
wide, and 3 feet long. in Fig. 500.
cured
(this side of the
box
A
Remove one
(Fig. 501), then cut of the
— Cage for White Rats.
inside,
two
box
good form
of
side of the box will
cage
is
shown
you have pro-
be the front of the cage)
strips 3 inches
wide by the length
and fasten them midway between the
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
400
Hinged Top
f
^^
1
^/////y//////A\\\\\\\\\.\v\v
•5TAPLES
Fig. 502-
Fig. 501.
— View
of
Nest Boxes and Fig. 502.
Inside
of
White Rat Cage showing Arrangement
of
Stairs.
— Section through the Hinged Top.
top and bottom of the box, one along the back and the
other along the front.
Make
a Couple of Nest Boxes as
shown
in Fig. 503, as
wide, 5 inches wide (inside), and 4 divide them into two compart(inside)
long as the cage inches deep
is
;
ments each as shown, and cut a doorway in
i\
inches
diameter into each
compartment. board to
fit
Cut a
the top of
each box for a cover,
Fig. 504.
—^^-^n:^^^
'"^
Fig. 503.
-Nest Box
tlG. 504.
— Corner of Front
for
Frame and Attachment
and bend a piece 503.
White Rat Cage. Screen showing
of Wire.
of
wire into the shape of s ^ j^^^i^ (p^^^ o ^ ^/ fasten it in the proper ,
,.
HOUSES FOR PETS position to
hook on
to a short nail or
A
of strips
screw driven into
Fasten the nest boxes
the edge of the cover (Fig. 501).
on top
401
and B, and tack a
strip to
each end of
the cage just above the nest box cover to hold
back edge (Fig.
When
501).
can be slipped from under
Make
the cover
this strip
is
down
the
unhooked,
it
and removed.
the stairs out of a piece of board 3 inches wide,
tack cross-pieces to
it
about \\ inches apart, and fasten
it
A and to the floor, in the center of the cage. Strips A and B, together with the platforms in front of
to strip
the nest boxes, furnish
An Elevated "Race-track" which your rats or mice will make good use of, especially the frisky young ones who love to chase one another about as well as any children do.
Ordinary screen wire cloth
is
the most satisfactory
covering for the front of the cage, and the best method
on
of putting this
is
by making a wooden frame out
strips 3 inches wide, with the corners
of
mitered and nailed
together (Fig. 504), and tacking the wire to the inside face of this.
The frame can be
cage (Fig. 500).
This
is
nailed or screwed to the
a better
method than
that of
tackino[ the wire over the ed2:es of the box, as the wire
can be stretched tighter and looks neater, and, what
more important,
it
prevents the wire from bulging out
between the tacks and providing the to
gnaw away
the space
The
is
is
rats with a
chance
the edge of the box at those points until
big enough to escape through.
top of the cage should project about \ inch over
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
402
the ends and 2 inches over the front. strip across the top at the back,
First nail a hinge-
then batten together the
remaining boards, and hinge them to this
By
strip (Fig. 502).
driving a staple into the under side of the cover and
another into the screen frame, so the two will come gether side by side the cage
may be
Paint your
when
the top
is
to-
closed (Fig. 502),
padlocked.
Hutches and Cages on the outside, and
whitewash them on the Floor Covering.
inside.
Cover the
floors
with a thick layer of
sawdust, which you can get from your grocer; and clean
out the hutches and cages twice a week, and replace the old sawdust with fresh, so as to keep conditions sanitary.
Place hay in the breeding
compartments for the nests. Drinking
Receptacles.
Get a small earthenware dish for drinking
This
stand
will
upon the
floor
water. solidly
and not be
so likely to overturn as a cup, bowl, or other receptacle with
a small base.
Use a very shallow dish for the rat-cage. Fig. 505.
one shown box.
— A Pigeon-cote. in
Divide
Fig. 505 it
into
^
Pigeon-cote
may be made
two
stories,
like
the
out of a packing-
by fastening a
floor
HOUSES FOR PETS midway between
403
the bottom and top, and divide each
story into two compartments.
Nail the cover boards to
the box, fasten a triangular piece to the top edge of each
end
to
form the gables, and then cut and
boards in place. the
roof
fastening
may
The
be
nail the roof
space between the box cover and
divided
into
two compartments by
a triangular piece similar
to the cover boards, before nailing
to the gable-ends
on the
roof.
Cut openings through the gable-ends and the sides of the box, into the compartments, and fasten perches below them.
The
pigeon-cote
ported upon a post.
may
be bracketed to a wall or sup-
—
^
1
''
•
—
'
H—r—
r-"^-!
r
'
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CHAPTER XXVII CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND
A.
HOME-MADE ARMOR \\\-
\V--ilh-\\\r///
The
castle club-house
shown
in Fig.
506
is
an idea
which the author has been holding in reserve for you for a good many years, for he originated it and carried it out on similar lines in his city back yard
The work
is
not
difficult,
when
a lad.
and the plan may be simplified
upon according to how much time you care spend upon it. A boy's interest in a thing often
or enlarged to
ceases the
work which
does not.
It
is
perfected to the point where impossible, therefore any piece
suggest alterations and additions
will
from time to time
is
it
improvement
further of
moment
is
more acceptable than one which
can be said for the castle club-house that
many schemes besides those described in this which may be developed by the builders, and
there are
chapter
which
will
MateriaL
probably suggest themselves.
As
the castle
may
be built in the corner
the back yard, the material for two walls
and the lumber required cost very tions.
little,
as
you
be saved,
for the rest of the building will
will see
The framework,
may
of
by looking
at the illustra-
with the exception of the corner 404
Fig. 506.
The Castle Club House.
CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR
405
built of boards, the corner turrets of barrels,
and
post,
is
the sides of box boards and scraps of
and
lumber can
Second-hand
widths.
sorts of lengths
all
generally
bought very cheap wherever a frame building
down
torn
is
be
being
or remodeled, and this will answer the pur-
pose as well as new material. Before starting work
on
you
just w4iat
it
is
best to do a
and then
will need,
little
sort out
boards you have succeeded in getting and see
have enough
if
;
you
no possibility
of
matter to cut
down
you
will
it
not,
the
you
will
if
and there
is
then be an easy
will
the dimensions of the castle so that
to rest the wall
Then
two pieces
Mark out
the dimensions upon the
lay a board along the
upon which
it
will
all of
be able to complete the job.
ground and
stand
you
procuring more,
The Framework.
507).
find that
figuring
end and
side for plates
framework {A and B, Fig.
take a 6-foot piece of 4-by-4-inch of
2-by-4-inch
upon the
stuff
spiked
or
stuff,
together,
and
plates at the corner for a corner post
V
Q
£
and brace it temporarily. and Cut uprights to fit between the fence rails, if the rails happen to be upon the inside face of the fence, and nail them to the fence directly in
line with
the
horizontal boards 7% G,
corner post.
H, and
and
Next, cut
the
them to the corner post C and the fence uprights and E, placing and G about 8 inches above the ground-plates, and and /even with the tops of C, D, and E. Boards^ and /,
nail
D
H
F
K
will
be necessary only in case boards
H and / extend
4o6
CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR above the top
My N,
Z,
Cut uprights
of the fence, as in Fig. 507.
O, P^ and
Q
7 feet 6 inches
407
and
long,
nail
them to plates A and B, and to horizontal pieces F, G, H, and /, 1 1 inches in from the corners formed by boards H, /, /, and K, Cut uprights R and 6' 7 feet long, and fasten them in the center of the front wall 2 feet apart and
for the entrance jambs, of the
end wall
for
set upright
T
in the center
an intermediate support.
marked U in Fig. 507, are 4-inch boards placed on edge, and are fitted between the fence and horizontal piece G, If there isn't a rail on the inThe Floor
Joists,
side face of the fence at the proper height to rest the
ends of the
joists on, nail a horizontal piece to the fence
for the purpose.
Before putting on the wall siding, get three barrels for
The Corner
Turrets.
from these, and
nail
Be sure that no hoops are missing
each stave to each hoop to keep the
barrels from falling apart. tin
about 3 by
5
inches in
Cut a number size,
of pieces of
and tack them
to the in-
side edge of the tops of the barrels, about 3 inches apart (Fig. 509), to
form the battlements; then
set the barrels
on boards H, /, /, and K, between uprights Z, M, N, Py and Q, and nail them to these uprights (Fig. 507).
(9,
Board up the Walls regardless of the openings, with the exception of the entrance, around which the boards
may
be
fitted,
boards so that each end right,
Cut the
and cut the openings afterwards. will strike the center of
and use up the short pieces wherever
it is
an up-
possible
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
4o8 to
do
so, in
order to save the long pieces for places
When
quiring them.
re-
you are ready
To cut the Openings, mark them out upon the walls and,
about
I"
inch outside of the lines, nail a vertical strip
across the boards which are to be cut to hold
gether (Fig. 511).
main
The upper row
and those
walls,
of
them
to-
openings on the
in the turrets, are painted
on the
wood.
The Roof. ing,
it
will
To
support the upper end of the roof board-
be necessary to
nail the horizontal piece
Fto
Fig. 508. Fig. 508.
Fig. 509.
uprights
M, R,
at the sides
— How the Roof should be put On.
— Construction of the Turret Battlements.
S,
you
and will
A^,
even with the tops
have
of
R
and S]
to fasten the diagonal pieces
IV znd X\ and around the barrels extra blocking will be Figure 508 shows how the roof boarding required. should be
laid.
First place
one layer
of
boards about
i
CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR
409
inch apart, as shown, then cover the spaces between with
The
another layer.
best
way
to
ings around the barrels and walls
and tack a
strip of
to the walls
and
it
make is
water-tight join-
to get
some
tar
up on But if you
to the roof along the walls, lap
barrels,
and daub
cannot get the roofing-paper and
it
with
paper
tar.
it
the cracks
tar, stuff all
with newspaper, using a pointed stick with which to push the paper lap
in,
and then tack pieces
them up on
Roof leaks a
If the
and
to the walls
little after
of tin over
them and
barrels.
you have finished
it,
do
not worry; the castle will dry out quickly after a storm,
inasmuch
as the floor
is
beneath for the
of space
high
is
made by
board 6 inches square to the
shown
The
in Fig. 508.
ground with plenty
air to circulate.
This
The Battlement.
off the
walls,
nailing pieces of
above the
roof,
turret battlements have
as
been
described.
The
space beneath the floor
is
plenty large for
Secret Treasure Vaults, without which, of course, the castle
would not be complete.
the floor
joists,
vaults in
which
as
shown
in
Boxes fastened between Fig. 507, will
to store the castle's " gold,"
make good
and the
boards over these should be battened together
floor
in sections
may
be removed to gain access to the vaults. The Drawbridge should be i inch larger all around than
so they
the entrance, and
its
boards should run horizontally and
be fastened together with battens (Fig. 511). Cut a piece of broom-handle 8 inches longer than the width of the
1
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS entrance {A, Fig. 510), and nail
it
to the lower
edge
the drawbridge, then
of
make
a socket for each end of the
broom-handle to
by nailing two blocks {B and C,
Fig. 510.
— Sockets for the Drawbridge.
Fig.
510) to the wall
each side
of the entrance,
and nailing another block (D) over these broom-handle
to hold the
in place.
To counterbalance pulleys,
set in,
tlie
Drawbridge, get two clothes-line
four
screw-eyes, and about 18 feet of clothesline.
Bore
hole
through
a
each batten of the drawbridge
near
end
the
{A, Fig. 511),
cut two slots in the castle wall
above the entrance (B, Fig. 511), screw the * '
1
pulleys ^ -^
Fig. 511.
.
into
the lower edge
Fig.
„ 511. — How
Fig.
5 12.
^
,^,.,.^ Drawbridge
the
is
u,
j
Counterbalaricea.
— Details of Counterbalance.
CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR of the horizontal board
Fat
C,
411
and two screw-eyes into
the ceiling at E.
For the counterbalance take two flour sacks, potato sacks, or two pieces of carpet sewed together in the form of bags; fill them full of sand or gravel, and tack the top of each around a block of wood, in one end of which a screweye has been screwed {D, Fig. 512). Cut the clothes-line in halves tie a knot on one endof the pieces; pull them ;
A
through holes
as far as
the knotted ends will per-
mit
run them around the
;
ends
of
the
draw^bridge,
up through
slots
pulleys
through
C,
B, over the
screw-eyes Z^ on the counterbalances, and through screw-
eyes
E
pull
up the drawbridge
far as
Then
(Fig. 511).
will go, low^er the
it
counterbalances ropes until they
on
tie
eyes
E\
the
come within
about 6 inches of the
and
as
floor,
the ropes to screwFiG. 513.
cut off the ends of
the rope.
A
— Windlass
for
raising the
Drawbridge.
Windlass
stituted
Fig. 513.
for
may be the
sub-
counter-
(You may make and use one of these instead of the counterbalances shown in Fig. 511.) Fig. 514.
— Shaft for Stovepipe Drum.
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
412
balances,
you wish
if
to
make
Figure
one.
simple scheme, requiring a section of
shows a stovepipe, a broom3
1
Make
handle, a grocery box, and a few boards. for the stovepipe out of the
5
broom-handle
a shaft
cut two disks
;
equal to the inside diameter of the stovepipe, bore a hole
through the center handle to
slip
shaft (Fig.
of
each large enough for the broom-
through, and fasten these disks to the Slip the shaft
514).
through the section
and tack the metal to the wooden disks. Mount the completed drum on two board uprights, and nail the lower ends of the uprights to the ends of the Construct a crank for each end of the shaft, fasten box.
of
stovepipe,
them
in place as
shown, and provide a loose pin
to
run
through a hole bored through each crank and each upright, as a
means
for locking the windlass
bored through each upright
will
make
the windlass at any point desired.
it
;
several holes
possible to lock
Tie the ends of the
ropes leading in from the drawbridge to the
them
windlass, and fasten
drum
of the
to the metal so they will not
slip.
As
noted in the
illustration, the
back
of the
should be nailed to the rear wall of the castle
;
box base also con-
nect the upper portions of the uprights to the walls with cross-pieces, to brace them.
A
Moat.
for a moat,
Dig
a trench around the outside of the base
and your
Home-made Armor.
armor with which
castle will be completed.
Of course you
to dress
up
will
want some
like a real knight, so
I
Fig. 515.
A Boy Kxight with
His IIo^ie-Made Armor.
CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR have invented for you a home-made helmet, a
shield,
413
and
a sword, which, with the addition of a pair of gauntlets
and a sweater
(this resembles,
coats of chain mail), will
somewhat, the texture
make
of
a fairly complete outfit.
Figure 515 shows a boy knight equipped with made armor.
this
home-
The Helmet.
Get an old worn-out derby hat (Fig. 516); remove the brim, sweat-band, and ribbon, make slashes i
KlG. 516.
Fig. 524
Fig.
Fig.
518.
519.
Fig. 520.
Figs. 516 to 524.
Fig. 521.
Fig. 523.
— Details for making the Helmet.
inch in length in the edge of the
felt
from the center of
each side around to the front, and bend up the pieces be-
tween the slashes (Fig. 517); cut two vizors out
of card-
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
414
board (Fig. 518), and glue one of these to the tops of the turned-up felt flaps and one to the under sides (Figs. 517
For the cape or neck portion of the helmet, cut a piece of cardboard to the shape shown in the diagram, and slash the lower edge (Fig. 520); bend this piece of cardboard as in Fig. 521, and bend out the pieces and 519).
slashes, then
between the
coat about 2
top of the cardboard with glue, place
hat and press (Fig. 523).
it
against the
felt
it
inches of the inside of the
until the glue
has set
Prepare the two crown ridge-pieces (Fig,
522) out of cardboard, glue the pieces together back to back, and glue the flaps to the crown of the hat (Fig. 523).
Cover the helmet with tin-foil this can be obtained from a florist, or from the wrappings of chocolate, etc. Glue the tin-foil to the felt and cardboard, and do not ;
try to
smooth out the wrinkles too
will give the effect of rich
particularly, for these
carvings such as you will see
on ancient helmets. Figure 524 shows our helmet. The Shield. Make a bow out of a narrow stick, bending it so there will be a distance of 2 inches between the center of the stick and
bowstring (Fig. 525), then cut the shield out of a piece of heavy cardboard
to the
dimensions given
bow.
Cut two blocks
of
the
in Fig.
526 and tack
wood 4 inches
long,
it
to the
and fasten
a piece of twisted wire to the ends of each with screws (Fig. 527) for the
arm and hand
straps;
wrap the wire
with cord (Fig. 528), and tack the shield to these blocks. Remove the bowstring and cut off the ends of the bow
CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR even with the cardboard; tin-foil
then
415
cover the shield with
or silver paper.
The Sword.
Cut
i^ inches wide, as
about 3 feet long, with a blade
this
shown
inch hole through the
in
stick, 6
whittle the handle round
Fig. 529.
First bore a J-
inches from one end, then
and bevel
blade until the edges are sharp.
off the sides of the
Drive a piece of iron
rod of the size marked through the hole in the handle, for the hilt of the sword; then cover the
hilt,
handle, and
the entire blade with tin-foil or silver paper.
Fig. 528. Fig. 526.
Figs. 525 to 528.
— Details of Shield.
Fig. 529.
Fig. 529.
— Sword.
T' J j
I
I
I
I
'
I
CHAPTER XXVIII A BOYS' BAND OF HOMEMADE INSTRUMENTS \\\-
\V--llh-\\\r-//f
The neighborhood
parade would be headed by a boys'
band, no doubt, were
it
not for the lack of instruments.
This need suggested to the author the idea of devising
home-made cornet, trombone, bass horn, fife, and bass drum shown in the illustrations upon the following pages. They are imitation instruments, to be sure, but they will make plenty of noise, and music, too, if they -are properly the
The
handled.
notes are produced on the horns by the
and not by the manipulation of keys, so it will be easy for any boy who can carry tunes by ear to play them without having to do very much pracvariation of the voice,
ticing.
If
you are not familiar with the tones
struments, you can soon
become so by
of the in-
listening to the
playing of a real band.
The
band equipment can be completed in a days, if each boy makes his own instrument, and
entire
couple of
the material should cost but very
little,
as
much of it can be
found about the house most likely something that you ;
will
need can be supplied by one of the other boys, in exchange for
which you can give him something that he wants. 416
Fig. 531.
Fig. 532. Figs. 530-532.
The Tromboxe.
The Bass Horn. Fig. 530. The Cornet. Home-Made Instruments for a Boys' Band.
A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS The Cornet (Fig.
Procure a quart-size
530).
for the bell of the cornet |-
and several
feet of
417
tin funnel
round stick
inch in diameter for tubing; for this some old flagstaffs
can be used, or cabinet-maker's |-inch dowel sticks can be purchased for a few cents a
can be formed of rubber tubing as tration (Fig. 533), or
is
shown
by bending a piece
h— 3 -H
In the illus-
of tree
branch
k-3-—
A
Ti"
h
Fig. 533.
to
The curved tubing
stick.
— Details of Cornet.
the proper shape (Fig.
538).
The
lengths
of
the
marked on the diagram, and the pieces the order in which they should be assem-
straight tubing are
are lettered in bled.
If
rubber tubing
is
used for the ends, run several
pieces of heavy wire through (see dotted lines
C and
it
to give
77, Fig. 533).
it
proper stiffness
Bore holes
in the
ends of the wooden tubing where Indicated, and whittle
them and the rubber tubing. Fasten the pegs place with glue, and fasten the other pieces with brads.
pegs in
to
fit
Drive rug tacks (Fig. 533) into the ends of the key tubes for keys. A " kazoo " is necessary for a mouthpiece.
This
little
instrument,
shown
In the illustration, will cost
a dime, and can be purchased from any music dealer;
if
you
in
he does not carry
it
In stock,
he can procure
It
for
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
4i8
Fasten the kazoo in place by means
a few days' time. of a
—
wooden peg will
it
;
then
—
as
you have stopped up
its
end
be necessary to puncture three holes in the top
as shown.
When
the tubing, keys,
bell,
and mouthpiece have
been put together, procure some cigar boxes,
buy some from a
tin-foil
florist,
or get several 5-cent
sheets of silver paper at a stationery store. foil
from empty
Cut the
tin-
or silver paper into short pieces, and paste these
around the tubing;
after sticking
piece with a clean rag to remove
work pend
carefully, as the
largely
all
rub each
wrinkles.
appearance of the cornet
Do
the
will de-
upon the neatness with which you cover
Fig. 534.
The Trombone funnel for
in place,
it
its
— Details of the Trombone.
(Fig.
bell
it.
531)
and
a
requires
kazoo
for
a two-quart a
tin
mouthpiece.
Figure 534 shows the details for the main portion of the trombone. The large tubing is made of a broom-handle, the smaller tubing of ^-inch sticks, and the curved ends as described for the Cornet.
A BOYS' BAND OF HOxME-MADE INSTRUMENTS
The
419
pieces are lettered in the order in which they
should be put together, and their lengths are marked.
Bore
all
shown or indicated by dotted
the holes
the proper size for the smaller tubing to
and
b in
fit
lines, of
Cut
into.
B
one piece, and do not separate them until after
you have bored a hole in the end 2 inches deep, which will run entirely through b and \ inch into the end of B.
The
idea
is
to hinge
eye in the end of
G
between
and B.
b
The
screw-
G
should be \ inch in diameter, inside. with glue, run it through b, Cover the end of tube
H
through the screw-eye in G, and into the hole
in
Wrap
in the
the end of the kazoo with paper, and glue
hole bored in the end of
shown, to
let
/.
Make
a gimlet hole in
536 the
first
step
Fig. 539.
strips
in
making
it.
Cut
slide,
a
and
number
Fig. 535.
Figs. 535 to 539.
of
/ as
out the tone from the kazoo.
Figure 535 shows the completed trombone Fig.
it
B.
of
— Details of Trombone Slide.
newspaper about
3
inches wide and
a \-
inch stick about 30 inches long; wrap the stick with a
dry strip of paper, then on top of this wrap in paste,
and gradually build up the tubing
strips
until
soaked it
is
as
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
420
thick as the broom-handle tubing (Fig. 537).
Let the
tubing dry thoroughly, then pull out the stick and prepare
The curved end O
another tube similarly.
may
be
made
(Fig. 535)
out of a tree branch (Fig. 538) or out of
M
P
rubber tubing (Fig. 533). Fasten between and A'with brads (Fig. 535). Screw a screw-eye i inch in
diameter (inside) into each end of
them over the paper tubing (Fig.
Q
(Fig. 539),
and
slip
When all the pieces
535).
have been put together properly, cover the tubing with silver paper.
The Bass Horn (Fig. 532) is made out of a brass phonograph horn
and a piece If
of
an old garden-hose.
you haven't an old phonograph
from which you can take the horn,
you can probably pick up a horn
at
a second-hand store for half a dollar.
The
length of this horn will deter-
mine the length of the hose tubing, also that of A and B, but you can follow Fig. 540 in working out the Fig. 540.
— Detail
of Bass
Horn.
proportions of the instrument.
horn shown in the
28 inches long, and the garden-hose
The
is
The
illustration
is
7 feet 6 inches long.
shows how the hose should be fastened at C, D, E, F, G, H, and /, and that rug tacks are driven into the ends of tubes y, A", and L. The full tone of the horn can be detail
produced by the
voice, as the
hose tubing
is
unobstructed.
A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS
As you
probably know, whistling upon the edge of a
card makes a pretty
A
Fife
we
;
shown in bend up one it
will
fair imitation of
use this same principle in making our
Cut a triangular piece
Fig. 541.
fife
tack
corner,
through
^
this corner
Fig. 541.
from one end.
inches
File
blunt and smooth.
of tin
0==D Fig. 543.
Drum
— The
of tin,
and
to a stick 13 inches long, 2
421
The
Fife.
the edge of the piece
Bore six "finger holes" in
the stick as shown, and cover tin-foil
it
with
or silver paper.
Figure 542 shows
Stick.
The Bass Drum, and Fig. 544 the detail of its framework. Procure eight barrel
hoops
for the
framework
;
also
Soak four of the hoops in water, then bend them out and fasten them together so as to make a small drum.
two hoops 30 or 34 inches Place the of C, Fig. 542.
— The
Bass
drum
in the exact
one hoop, and fasten
and
D around
in diameter.
it
strips
(Fig. 544).
center
A, B, Brace
the other hoop with strip E, then con-
Drum.
nect the two hoops with 12-inch strips
drum
placed horizontally as shown.
Fasten the small
in place with cords (Fig. 544).
Cover the entire frame-
work with wrapping-paper, then cut away the portion covering the head of the small drum (Fig. 542). Nail
;
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
423
the four remaining barrel hoops around the bass
drum
for rims.
Use small
staples for the brace-coj^d
hooks (Fig. 545)
cut the braces out of canvas by the pattern of Fig. 546,
Fig. 549-
Fig. 547. Figs. 545 and 546. for
Fig. 544.
— Detail of Bass Drum.
and sew edge
A
for the brace cord,
drum, as shown
Figs. 547 to 549.
and lace
in
— Details of Cymbals.
Get heavy wrapping cord
edge B.
to
— Details of Braces
Bass Drum.
it
back and forth around the
Fig. 542.
Screw a screw-eye intp
each rim from which to attach a rope or tape
slijig (Fig.
542).
For Cymbals procure two pot covers; mount one on a spool upon the
drum framework
(Fig. 547),
and fasten a
knob
(Fig. 548) to the top of the other for a handle (Fig.
549).
Pot-cover knobs such as that shown can be bought
at
any hardware store
Saw
off
handle for
a
at 5 cents apiece.
14-inch piece from the end of a broom-
A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS The Drum-stick; cut a hole it
run through, and drive a
to
in
423
an old tennis-ball for
nail
through the
ball into
the end of the stick (Fig. 543).
Snare Drums can be easily
made by
heavy cloth over cheese boxes, but to tone
stretching canvas or
drums
real
up the band and should be used
if
will
help
you can get
them.
The Drum Major
(Fig.
major the boy who can
Choose
550).
for
your drum-
twirl a stick the best.
make
If
an old fur muff can be had,
A
Splendid "Bearskin" Cap; sew a piece of elastic to
one end
l-iG.
of
it
550. — The
Drum
Major.
to
it
go around the chin
will
(Fig. 551).
In case
Fig. 552.
Fig. 553.
Figs. 551 to 557.
Fig. 555.
— Details of Drum Major's Outfit.
you cannot get a muff, make a cardboard cylinder 10 inches in diameter and 12 inches high, and fasten a
HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS
424
circular piece of cardboard to the top (Fig. 552);
cover
it
then
with cotton (Fig. 553).
Cut a piece
of
broom-handle 3
The Drum Major's
Staff,
feet long for
paint
it
black,
and screw
to
from a curtain-pole (Fig. 554); then wrap the joint between the ball and piece of broomthe head a brass ball
handle with cord until
it is
filled out, as
and cover the cord with a band
shows
Any
Uniforms.
has
of tin-foil.
this
Figure 556
he signals the band
toy whistle will do.
The drum major may wear
a pair, but these are not necessary.
have a red or blue sash braid stripes pinned his cuffs.
in Fig. 555,
r
The Major's Whistle; with to play.
shown
boots
He
tied across his breast,
down
his trousers legs
Small safety-pins
may
if
he
should
and red
and around
be sewed to the stripes
Figure 557 shows the Cut a cardboard form similar
so they can be attached quickly.
way to make the epaulets. to A, pad it on top with
cotton,
and cover
cloth; then cut fringe out of yellow cloth
it
with red
B
and sew
A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS it
side oi
Sew
edge C.
to the
425
a small safety-pin to the under
A,
Figures 530, 531, and 532 will suggest the uniforms for the other band musicians a soldier cap, a pair of
—
made
epaulets
drum
major's (see Fig. 557), and red braid stripes for the cuffs and trousers legs.
Now,
similar to the
boys, get to
work and organize your band, and
made and you have given a public performance, write and tell me how you succeeded. When your town has a parade on some after the
special
instruments have been
occasion, probably you can get permission
to
head the procession, and when you boys have a vaudeville,
a circus, or any kind of a
the band will
you belong Band.
fill
show or entertainment,
the requirements of an orchestra.
to the "
Boy
Scouts," organize a
If
Boy Scout
;
INDEX Annual Admission
tickets, 26g.
form and
Aerial, a wireless telegraph, 227;
dimensions
227; construction of, 228; masts for, 230; 229;
of,
insulation of,
Aerogram blanks,
room
an
in
(see
Room
in
an
Attic).
223.
;
;
;
;
a simple 303 monoplane model, 304 a French monoplane model, 309; an Antoinette monoplane model, 314; a more elaborate monoplane model, 316; center-poles, 305, 309, 314, 320; propellers, 306, 310, 315, 321; motors, 307 winding up the motor, bird
rocker, 164.
Attic, a boy's
Aeroplanes, model, 297 ; length of flights, 298, 324; junior aero clubs, 300; meets, 300 glider race, 306 types of machines used, 302 support of models, 302 a
cardboard
;
Arm
grounding of, 230. Aero clubs, junior, 300.
rings, 44.
Antennae (same as Aerial). Antoinette monoplane model, 314. Ark, a bird, 385 a wall bracket bird, 385. Armor, home-made, 412; a helmet, 413; a shield, 414; a sword, 415.
glider,
;
;
Auger-bits, 21.
Auto-airship, a boy's (see Airship). Auto deli very- wagon, a toy, 180.
Automatic drill, 23. Automobile moving picture, an, 273. Auto wagon, 374 steering-gears for, 374, 375; seats for, 376; trip gong for, 376. ;
Awls, brad-, 22; scratch, 22. Axles, wagon, 368.
B
;
warping 308; planes, 306, 311, 315, 323 the planes, 313, 318 (Fig. 399); adjusting the planes, 306, 313, 324; bracing cords, 313, 324; binding material, 320; ;
tails,
316, skids,
rudders, 316, 325 running-gears, 311, 321;
316, 325
324; 311;
;
fins,
finish,
324;
;
Back-saw, 18. Bag, a sleeping-, 342. Balloon for auto-airship, framework envelope of, 331 stays, 331.
of home-made instruments, a boys', 416; a cornet, 417; a trombone, 418; a bass horn, 420; a fife, 421; a bass drum, 421; cymbals, 422; a drum-stick, snare drums, 423; the drum 423; major's "bearskin" cap, 423; his staff,
ments, 326.
327; framework of 330; rib-bands, 331; balloon envelope, 331; stays, 331; car, propeller, 333 starting platform, 332 334; a push-off platform, 335; rope cable, 335 attachment of car, 335 windlass for pulling airship back to platform, 335 an auto-airship club, 336. Airships," clockwork "flying, 203. ribs,
;
;
Amateur wireless telegraph stations, 223, Ammunition for snow battleship, 285. Ampere, 252. Animals for merry-go-round, cardboard, 197.
424
;
;
;
his
whistle,
424
;
uniforms, 424.
Barrel table, 166. Basket, a waste, 164.
Bass drum, a home-made, 421. Bass horn, a home-made, 420. Battens, 69. Batteries, dry, 247
;
connections
of,
253193,
329;
Band
field for experi-
Airship, a boy's auto-,
balloon, 329;
of,
;
Battery, a storage, 246. Battle, rules for a snow naval, 285. Battlement, a castle club-house, 409.
427
247 and
;
INDEX
428
snow (see Snow Battleship). Beaded boards, 49. Bearings, model aeroplane shaft, 307, 309, 322. "Bearskin" cap, a drum major's, 423. Bench, a cabinet-made, 3 a home-made, 3 Battleship, a
;
;
a chair saw-, 38 a solid work, 4 a work, with tool-drawers, 8; a bedroom or living-room, 117; a camp table, 350; a box, 350. Bench-hook, 40. Bench-screw, an iron, 7. Bench-stop, an adjustable, 12. Bench-stops, home-made, 11. ;
Bench-vise,
;
6.
Boy's room in an
attic,
a (see
Room
an
in
Attic).
Brace, ratchet-, 21. Bracket-saw, 18.
Brad-awls, 22. Brass craft, 206 tools and materials for, 206 enlarging designs by squares, 207 pierc;
;
;
208
ing,
polishing,
;
209
a home-made
;
lacquer, 209; tea-pot stand, 209; calen-
dar board, 211; pen tray, 211; lamp212; candle-shade, 214; fringe shade holders, 215; candlefor, 214; stick, 215; "Paul Revere" lantern, 216. Brushes, 77. shade,
Butt-joint, 60.
Bevel, 26, 71.
Biplane type of model aeroplane, faults of the, 302.
Bird glider, a cardboard, 303. Bird-houses, 379; material for, 379; a box another box bird-house, bird-house, 380 a tin-can bird a bird tower, 382 381 a bird a bird castle, 383 tower, 382 ;
;
;
;
;
a wall bracket bird ark, 385 a house and swing, 386 a hanging-house, 386; a shelter, 387. wood drill, 22 counterBit, expansive-, 21 ark, 385
;
;
;
;
sink, 22;
;
Cabinet, a tool, 33
;
a music, 159.
Cabinet-made work benches,
Cabin Cable
latch,
an old-fashioned, 157.
for auto-airship, 335.
Cage, a white rat, 399. Calendar board, 211. Call, to receive a " wireless," 249
Calumet Aero Club, The, 300.
Blanks, aerogram, 223. Blocks, single, 329. Blueprints, working-drawing, 97. Blunderbuss for "WiUie Shute," 268.
Camp
list,
349 350
a,
;
;
box cupboards, 350.
tent, tent,
;
"A" and
cost of
make an "A"
to
338; ridge-pole and uprights for a 340 tent stakes, 340 pitching the tent, 340; a tent ground-cloth, 341; a
undressed, 48;
dressed, 48;
a sharpie, 356. Boats, a punt, 351 Boats," "torpedo, 286. Bob-sled, 290; runners, 291; seats,
;
;
;
matched, 49; beaded and matched-and-beaded, 49; rabbeted, 65. (See Lumber.)
49;
make
furniture, 349 a chair, 349 a table, a box bench, a table bench, 350
Camping equipment, 337; wall tents, 337; how
foot, def. of, 51. of,
to
a "wireless," 223.
Call
Bits, auger-, 21.
Boards, stock sizes
;
250.
screw-driver, 23.
Bit-brace, 21.
Board
3.
Cabinet-maker's clamps, 29.
;
;
spruce or pine twig mattress, 341 ^ a other equipment, 342 sleeping-bag, 342 an electric flash lamp, 343 packing, 343 ;
;
;
;
Bolts, 74.
a safety match-box, 344; a duflSe box, learning to food supplies, 345 344 a backan open fire, 345 cook, 345 woodsman's fireplace, 346; pothooks, a a sheet-iron camp stove, 347 347
Bonehead, 260.
Dutch oven, 348
check-chains,
293 293
;
;
293
;
steering
steering lines,
293 seat cushion, 293
Book-racks, 107 Book-shelf, 163.
;
292;
foot-bar,
handle-bars,
;
painting,
294.
;
;
;
;
;
extension, 108.
Bottle-rack, 141.
Box and
;
;
barrel furniture, 160 (see Furniture). Boxing-match, moving picture of a, 277. Boy riders for merry-go-round, 195.
a
fireless cooker,
348 building a fire, 348; a camp chair, 349; a camp table, 349; a table bench, 350; a box bench, 350; box cupboards, 350. ;
Camp
stove, a sheet-iron, 347. Candle-shade, 214; holder for Candle-stick, a brass, 215.
a,
215.
;;
;;
INDEX Can
and screws,
429
Clockwork
Cap, a drum major's "bearskin," 423. Captain of snow battleship, duties of, 285.
toys, 189 (see Toys). Clothes closet for an attic room, trousers hangers for, 155.
Car
Clown and
receptacles for nails
35.
for auto-airship, 332.
;
Carriage-bolts, 74. Cars for Ferris wheel, 201;
300
for "flying air-
;
auto-airship, 336.
Coach-whip pennant,
ships," 205. Castle, a bird, 383.
seat, ;
Code
card, a "wireless," 223. Codes, Morse and Continental, 250
;
;
;
;
for, 287; shoes, 288; handles, 289; foot-bar, 290;
289;
painting, 290.
material, 404 a, 404 framework, 405 floor joists, 407 corner walls, 407 openings, 408 turrets, 407 secret battlement, roof, 408 409 drawbridge, 409 treasure vaults, 409 moat, windlass for drawbridge, 411; ;
way
;
Coil, a
;
a good
home-made
"wireless " tuning-, 237;
Cold-chisel, 25.
known
Commercial
as, 49.
Cells (see Batteries).
Chain fringe
Common-joint, 60. Common-splice, 60. Compasses, 92. Compass-saw, 18.
for brass craft, 214.
Roman, 126; a Mission, 128; an
Chair, a
163; a doll's round-seated, 182; doll's square-seated, 183 a camp,
office,
;
Condenser, a home-made "wireless," 241. Contests, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325. Continental telegraph code, 251.
Contrivances for the house, handy, 135 a fireless cooker, 136; pot-cover rack,
349-
Chair saw-bench, 38. Chamfer, 71.
flat-iron rest, 143; 141; bottle-rack, 141 sleeve-board, 145; rack, 144; knife-box, 146; scrub-pail platform, 146; ;
Chamfer bevel, 71. Chamfer groove, 71.
flat-iron
Check-chain, bob-sled, 293. Checks in lumber, 47. Chest, a tool-, 30; a pirate, 159. Chest- weight, 170. Chicago Wireless Club, The, 222. Chiffonier, a box, 167. Chinning-bar, 175. framing or mortising, Chisels, firmer, 24
towel-roller,
;
cold-, 25.
Cigar boxes, preparation finish,
178;
of,
cutting,
179.
Cigar-box toys and
gifts,
178 (see Toys; also
147
;
ice-pick
and
Clamps, cabinet-maker's,
29;
home-made,
Cooker, a fireless, 136, 348. Coping-saw, 18. Cornet, a home-made, 417. Cote, a pigeon-, 402. Counterbalance, castle drawbridge, 410, Countersink-bit, 22.
Countersinking, 73. Cradle, a doll's, 183. Crate opener, 17. Cross-cut saw, 18.
Cupboards, camp, 350.
Cup- shakes,
29.
Cleating boards, 69. Cleats, 69; porcelain, 229. Clock-shelf, 105; a corner, 184. 190, 198
;
to operate, 197
to increase speed of, 205.
;
ice-chisel
rack, 148.
Crosstree, 284.
Furniture).
Clockwork motors,
amateur "wireless,"
stations,
223.
Center-poles, model aeroplane, 305, 309, 314, 320. Center-table, a doll's, 182.
179;
;
to learn the, 251.
an induction- or spark-, 245.
412. Ceiling, def. of boards
24;
284.
runners
Coaster, 287;
Cart, a toy, 180.
Castle club-house,
pictures, 272.
Club-house, a castle (see Castle). Clubs, workshop, 103, 105 wireless telegraph, 222; vaudeville, 256; junior aero,
Carpenter's horse, 36. Carpenter's steel square, 26.
a
moving
ball
155
47.
Current strength, electrical, 252. Cutting cigar-box wood, 179. Cutting large holes, 142. Cutting pliers, 28. Cymbals, home-made, 422.
INDEX
430
Dummy
D Dado-plane, 20.
Deck
of
snow
assistant to professor with magical
mortar, 263. Dutch oven, 348.
battleship, 283.
E
Delivery- wagon, a toy auto, 180.
Desk, a Mission writing-, 129; a table, 133; a box writing-, 160. Detail drawing, 86. Detectors, home-made "wireless," 233; a a razor blade micromicrophone, 233 ;
a silicon, 236. phone, 235 Dickson, Mr. Royal C, 223. ;
Dimension
stufif,
sizes of
Electrical measurements, 252.
Electric fixture, 134. Electric lamp, 130.
Electromagnetic waves, 226.
Elementary manual
training, 42.
Elevations, def. of
lumber known
and as,
49.
Dining-table, a doll's, 182. Dividers, wing-, 27.
left,
front,
rear,
side,
Enlarging by squares, 207, 287. Estimating cost of material, 51. Exercising machine (see Chest-weight). Expansive-bit, 21.
Dog-house, 389. a round-seated chair, Doll furniture, 182 182 a round center-table, 182 a diningtable, 182; a square-seated chair, 183; a cradle, 183. Door, a paneled, 124. Doors for partitions of attic room, 156; transom for, 157; cabin-latch for, 157. Dot and dash, 226 and 247. Dovetail half -lap joint, 68. DovetaiUng, 67. ;
Express-wagon, a toy, 180. Extension book-rack, 108.
;
;
Falsetto, 263.
Ferris wheel, a clockwork, 198.
home-made, 421.
Fife, a
Fighting-tops, 283. Files, handiest forms
of, 25.
Filler,
a paste, 82.
Doweling, 68.
Filling
woodwork,
Dowel-joint, 68.
Finishing woodwork, 75. Fins, model aeroplane, 316, 325. Fire, an open camp, 345 to build
Dovetail-joint, 66.
Dowels, 68. Drafting table, 91, 133. Drawbridge, castle, 409.
Firmer
Fished-splice, 60.
outfit, 90.
Drawings, working-, 86; perspective, 88. Draw-knife, 25. Dressed stuff, 48. Drill, an automatic, 23. Drill bit for wood, 22. Drop-cord, how to wire up a, 132. Drum, a home-made bass, 421 a home-made ;
snare, 423.
major, 423; a "bearskin" cap, 423; a staff, 424; a whistle, 424. Drum-stick, a bass-drum, 423. batteries (see Batteries).
;
U.
S.
a,
348.
Army, 140
;
a
Fireplace, the backwoodsman's, 346.
for tools, 10.
Drawing
Dry
136
camp, 348.
Drawing-board, 91.
Drum
82.
;
Fireless cooker,
Drawer-pulls, 32, 288.
Drawers
right,
87.
chisels, 24.
Fixed condenser, a home-made "wireless," 241.
Flags for snow battleships, 284, 286. Flash lamp for camping, an electric, 343. Flat-iron rest, 143.
Flushing Pushmobile Club, The, 365; of, 365-367. "Flying airships," clockwork, 203. Folding rule, a 2-foot, 26.
Food
races
supplies, camp, 345. Foot-bar for coaster, 290; for bob-sled, 293.
Footstool, 114.
Duffle box, 344.
Fore-plane, 20.
Dumb-bell lifting stunt, 258. Dumb-bell rack, 177.
Foreshorten, def. of term, 319.
Framing
chisel, 24.
;
INDEX Fringe for brass craft, 214. Funnels for snow battleships, 284. Furnishing an attic room, 159. Furniture, box and barrel, 160; writing-desk, waste-basket, office chair, 160; 163; 164; arm-rocker, 164; barrel table, 166; chiflFonier, 167; pirate chest, 159; win-
dow
431
Gymnasium
apparatus, for a boy's room, chest-weight, striking-bag 170; 170; platform, 173; chinning -bar, 175; hitchand-kick, 175; wand, 176; rack for dumb-bells, Indian clubs, and wand, 177.
H
seat, 159.
Furniture, camp, 349 a chair, 349 a table, 349; a table bench, 350; a box bench, ;
;
350 ; cupboards, 350. Furniture, doll, 182; a round-seated chair, a dining 182; a round center-table, 182 ;
table,
182; a square-seated, chair, 183;
a cradle, 183. Furniture, easily made, 103 a whisk -broom holder, 105, 185; a clock-shelf, 105; a corner-clock shelf, 184; a key -board, ;
183; a match-box, 185; a cottage piperack and match-box, 186; a cottage match-box, 188; a necktie-rack, 107; book-racks, 107 an a towel-rack, 107 tabourets, extension book-rack, 108; no, 112; a plant stand, 114; a footstool, 114; bench, 117; magazine racks, 120; a music-cabinet, 122; an umbrella-stand, 125; a Roman chair, 126; a Mission chair, 128; a Mission writing-desk, 129; an electric lamp, 130; a drafting table, ;
;
133;
a desk table, 133.
Half-lap joint, 60. Halved-joint, 60. Halved-splice, 60.
Hammer,
17; a tack, 17.
Handle-bars,
sled, 293.
Handscrews, 29. Hanging lamp, a home-made, 158. Hatchet,
16.
Hay-stove
(see Fireless cooker).
Headlights, 373. Heart-shakes, 47.
Heart-wood, 44. Heater for attic room, 157, Hertzian waves, 226. Hinge-hasp, 31. Hitch-and-kick, 175. Holder, a whisk-broom, 105; Holes, cutting large, 142.
Home
workshop, the,
a shade, 215.
i.
Hood, a pushmobile, 372. Hooks, spool, 155. Horn, a home-made bass, 420. Horse, a carpenter's, 36.
Horse and hound, moving pictures, 272. Horses for merry-go-round, 193. a dog-, House, a bird- (see Bird-houses) ;
Gauge, a marking-, 26; a mortise-, Gauging, 52.
27.
Gears, model aeroplane running-, 311, 316, 321. Gifts, cigar-box, 183 (see Furniture). Gimlet, a hand, 22. Girl riders for merry-go-round, 195. Glider, a cardboard bird, 303 ; a
simple monoplane, 304 a race, 306. Gong, a trip, 376. Gothic letters, for working-drawings, 102. Gouge, 24. ;
Grindstone, 30. Groove, 66. Ground-cloth, a tent, 341.
Grounding an
aerial, 230.
Grounds, 116.
Guns
for
snow
battleship, 283, 285.
389.
Housed- joint, 66. Household conveniences,
135
(see
Contri-
vances for the house). Houses for pets, 389; a dog-house, 389; a a breeding hutch, rabbit-hutch, 391 a two-story rabbit-hutch, 395 394 a rabbit yard, 398 a cage for white rats, ;
;
;
a pigeon-cote, 402. Hutch, a rabbit-, 391; a breeding, 394; a painting, 402 two-story rabbit-, 39S drinking receptacles, floor covering, 402 399;
;
;
402.
Ice-pick and ice-chisel rack, 148.
Indian club rack, 177. Induction-coil, a "wireless," 245.
;
;;;
INDEX
432
Inkstand, a home-made pencil box and, 96. Instruments, drawing, 90; "wireless" re"wireless" transmitting, ceiving, 232;
Lock, a mortise-, and a half-mortise, 125. Lockers for a boy's room, 154.
a boys' band of home-made, 416. 24s Insulation of the "wireless " aerial, 229.
Lug
;
Insulators, porcelain, 229.
Logs, cutting up, 45. pole, 346. Lumber, preparation
seasoning
of,
stock sizes
of,
defects In, 47 drying of, 48; 49; estimating cost of, 51. of,
45
;
kiln
48;
M Jack-in-the-box, 181.
Machine, a simple moving-picture, 270.
Jack-knife, 15. Jack-plane, 19. Joints, 57;
common-, 60;
butt-, 60; halved-,
mortise-and-tenon, 61; 60; tongue-andhoused-, 66 65 mitered, 66 dovetail, 66 groove, 66 dovetail half-lap, 68; dowel, 68. or
lap-,
rabbet-,
;
;
;
;
;
Juggling with "heavy" balls, 260. Juvenile Manufacturing Co., The, 103.
Magazine Magazine
of
snow
battleship, 285.
racks, 120.
Magical mortar, 260; stunts with
battery of snow battleship, 285. Mallet, a wooden, 17.
Manual
training, elementary, 42.
Marconi, Guglielmo, 219. Marking-gauge, 26.
Mast
for
Masts
K
snow
battleship, 283.
for aerial, 230.
Match-box, a kitchen, 185 Keel board, an inner, for punt, 353
;
for
and, 186;
cottage pipe-rack a cottage, 188; a safety, 344.
Matched-and-beaded
sharpie, 361.
Matched
Key, a "wireless," 248. Key-board, 183.
;
stuff, 49.
stuff, 49.
of workshop working-, purchasing, 50 estimating cost of, 43 51; upholstering, 116; brass craft, 206. Material boxes, 34. Mattress, a pine twig, 341.
Material, selection
Keyhole-saw, 18. Kiln drying, 48.
;
;
Knife, a jack-, 15; a draw-, 25. Knife-box, 146. Knife switch, a double-throw, single-pole, a double-throw, double- pole, 248. 231 ;
Knobs,
the, 261.
Main
spool, 169.
Medullary rays, 45. Meets, model aeroplane, 300;
pushmobile,
365-
Knots, 47.
Merry-go-round, a clockwork,
L
for,
193;
sleighs for,
194;
190; girl
horses
and boy
riders for, 195 ; to animals for, 197 operate, 197. Microphone detector, a home-made, 233 a razor blade, 235. ;
Lacquer for brass craft, 209. Lamp, an electric, 130; a home-made hanging-, 158.
Lamp-shade, 212 holder for Lantern hanging-lamp, 158; ;
a,
Mill
215.
a "Paul Re-
vere," 216.
Latch, a cabin, 157. Laying out work, 5 1 working-drawings, 100. Lettering working-drawings, 102. Level, 27; a pocket, 28. ;
LeveHng up uneven
legs of furniture,
112.
License number, a pushmobile, 373.
Light for workshop, 3 for attic room, 158. Lines, dimension, loi center-, dot-anddash, dotted, and marginal, 102 plumb-, ;
;
;
153.
list, preparation of a, 50. Mission chair, 128. Mission writing-desk, 129. Miter-box, a home-made, 39.
Mitered-joint, 66.
Mitered-sphce, 66.
Moat, 412.
Model aeroplanes (see Aeroplanes). Monoplane model aeroplane, a simple, 304 a French, 309; an Antoinette, 314; a more elaborate, 316. (For parts see Aeroplanes.)
Morse telegraph
code, 250.
INDEX
433
Mortar, the magical, 260.
Paper
Mortise, 62. Mortise- and-tenon joints, 61.
97Parallel, batteries connected in,
Mortise-gauge, 27. Mortising chisel, 24. Motors, clockwork, 190, 198; to operate, 197 increasing speed of, 205. winding for Motors, model aeroplane, 307
Paring with a
;
;
flights,
Moving
308.
a simple machine for, the circus 270; the clown and ball, 272 horse and hound, 272; the automobile, the the revolving wheels, 276; 273; boxing match, 277. Multiple, batteries connected in, 247 and 253. Music-cabinet, 122. pictures, 270;
;
for
working drawings, 96
for tracing,
;
247, 253.
chisel, 63.
Partition for attic room, 149.
"Paul Revere"
lantern, a brass, 216.
Pencil box, a home-made, 96. Pencils, drawing, 94. Pennants for a boy's room, 159; battleship, 284.
for
a snow
Pens, 95.
Pen
tray, 211.
Perspective drawing, def. of a, 88. Picture-frames, home-made, 159. Pictures, moving, 270.
Pigeon-cote, 402.
Pins for mortise-and-tenon joints, 65.
N
Pirate chest, 159. Pith of a tree, 44.
Nail boxes and cans, 34 and 35. Naihng, 74; toe-, 152 (Fig. 173).
Plain sawing, 45. Plan, def. of, 87.
Nails, 74. Nail-set, 17.
Plane, a jack-, 19; a smoothing-, 20 afore-, 20 a rabbet-, 20 a dado-, 20. Planes for model aeroplanes, 306, 311, 315, ;
Naval battle, a snow, 285; Necktie-rack, 107. Nest boxes, rat-cage, 400. Netting, poultry-, 393.
rules for a, 285.
323; stability, 303; warping
of,
313, 318
(Fig. 399).
Planing exercise, 54. Planks, sizes of lumber known Plant stand, no, 114. Platforms for auto-airship, 334.
O Odd
;
;
jobs, the, 28.
as, 49.
Pliers, 28.
Office chair, 163.
Plumb-board, 153.
Ohm,
Plumb-line, 153.
252.
-^
Oiler, 30.
Pocket
Oil heater for attic room, 157 Oiling woodwork, 84.
Polishing, wood, 83 brass, 209. Pot-cover rack, 141.
Oil stains, 79.
Potentiometer,
level, 28. ;
Oilstone, 30.
a
home-made
"wireless,"
243-
14; a wood finishing, 75; a drawing, 90; a brass craft, 206 a "wireless" receiving, 232; a "wireless" transmitting, 245 a camping, 337. Oven, a Dutch, 348.
Outfit, a tool,
;
;
Pothooks, 347. Poultry-netting, 393. Pressure, electrical, 252.
Priming coat,
78.
Printing-frame for blueprints, a home-made, 99.
Professor for a boys' vaudeville show, the, 261; his magical mortar, 260; stunts,
Packing a camp
outfit, 343.
mixing, 76. Painter for punt, 355 Painting, 77.
Paint, 75
;
Panel door, 124. Paneling, 124.
261-263.
Program board
;
for sharpie, 362.
for vaudeville
show, 268
an auto-airship, 33s. Propellers, model aeroplane, 306, 310, shafts and bearings for, 307.. 321 Punching-bag (see Striking-bag).
Propeller,
;
.3i.5»
;;
INDEX
434
Punt, a home-made, 351; dimensions, 351; material, 351; side boards, 352; stem-
and 353
;
stern-pieces, ;
353
;
bottom boards,
inner keel board, 353
rowlocks, 354
;
seats,
thole-pins, 355
;
354
;
painter,
;
finishing, 355. 355 Pushmobile, a, 364 a, club, 365, 368 a 367; to construct a, 368; axles, wagon-bed, 369; steering-gear, hood, 372; radiator-front, 372; 373; headlights, 373; side lamps, ;
;
painting, 373
;
license
;
race,
368; 369;
Rest for flat-iron, 143. Revolving wheels moving picture, 276. Rib-bands, auto-airship balloon, 331. Ridge-pole, a tent, 340. Rip-saw, 18. Rocker, an arm, 164. Roller, a towel-, 147.
Roman
chair, 126.
seat,
Roof, castle, 408.
373; a
Room
number, 373
;
racing pushmobile, 373.
Push wagon, a simple, 376; wagon-bed, 376; rear wheels, 377;
Resistance, electrical, 252.
front wheels, 377.
an
in
attic,
a
boy's,
149;
parti-
tions for, 149; lockers for, 154; clothes closet for, 155; heater for, 157; wash-
stand
for,
158; lighting, 158; furnishing,
159-
Puttying, 84.
Rowlocks, 354.
Putty-knife, a home-made, 85.
Rubbing woodwork, 83. Rudder, a model aeroplane,
316,
a
324;
sharpie, 362.
Rule, a 2-foot folding, 26. Ruler, a 12-inch, 94. Ruling-pen, 93.
Quarter sawing, 46.
R
Runners
Rabbet, 65.
shoes
for coaster, 287 for,
;
for bob-sled, 291
288.
Running-gears, model aeroplane, 311, 316,
Rabbet-joint, 65. Rabbet-plane, 20.
321.
Rabbit-hutch (see Hutch). Rabbit yard, 398. Races, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325 pushmobile, 365-368. "Race track," a rat-cage, 401. Rack, a tool-, 33 a necktie-, 107 a towel-, an extension book-, a book-, 107 107 108; a magazine-, 1 20 a p)ot-cover, 141 a bottle-, 141; a flat-iron, 144; an icepick and ice-chisel, 148; a broom-handle towel-, 158 a dumb-bell, Indian club, and wand, 177. Radiator-front, a pushmobile, 372. ;
;
;
;
;
;
;
Ratchet-brace, 21:
.
aerial,
227; insulating, 229; grounding, 230; telephone receivers, 232 microphone ;
razor blade microphone 233 detector, silicon detector, 236 235 tuning-coil, 237 fixed condenser, 241 potentiometer, 243 arrangement of instruments, 248; to receive a call, 249;
detector,
;
;
;
;
codes, 250.
the strong man, 256; stunts 256-260. Sandpapering, 84.
Sap-wood, 45. Saw, cross-cut, 18; keyhole-, 18; bracket-, 18;
for,
rip-, 18; compass-, 18; back-, 18; coping-, 18;
scroll-,
19.
Saw-bench, a chair, 38. Sawing, plain, 45 quarter, 46 ;
;
exercise in,
57-
Scale for mechanical drawing, 94. Scales to which drawings are made, 88.
Ratchet screw-driver, 23. Razor blade microphone detector, 235. Receivers, telephone, 232. Receiving outfit, a "wireless," 232;
Sam Dow,
Scratch-awl, 22. Screw-driver, a spiral-ratchet, 23 ; a hand, 23; a, bit, 23. Screws, 72; fastening together work with, 73.
Scribing, 51. Scroll-saw, 19.
Scrub-pail platform, 146.
Seasoning lumber, 48. Seat, a window, 159; bob-sled, 292.
a coaster,
289;
a
;
;
INDEX bob-sled, 292 punt, coaster, 289 354; sharpie, 361; wagon, 373, 376. Secondary battery of snow battleship, 285. Seats,
;
;
and longitudinal,
Section, def. of cross-,
88.
connected in, 247, 253. Series-parallel, batteries connected in, 247, Series, batteries
pennant, 284 signal flags, 284 Union Jack, 284 national ensign, 284 funnels, ventilators, 285 284 main-battery and secondary battery guns, 285 ammunition stores, 285 duties of the Captain, 285 a naval battle, 285 ; rules for a naval ;
a candle-, 214.
;
;
;
;
;
boats,"
holders, 215.
ship,
Shafts for model aeroplanes, propeller, 307, 310, 322. heart-, 47. Shakes, cup-, 47 ;
Sharpie,
home-made,
a
356
dimensions,
;
:
;
battle, 285;
253-
Shade, a lamp-, 212;
Shade
435
286; "torpedo 286; marksman-
flag of truce,
286;
repairs,
286.
Socket and drop-cord for lamp, 131. Spark-coil, 245.
Spark-gap, 246. Specifications, 86.
side pieces, 357; stem-piece, 358; stretcher, 358; putstern-piece, 358;
Spiral-ratchet screw-driver, 23.
the pieces together, 358; bottom boards, 359 skeg, 360 inner keel board,
Splices,
356; ting
;
;
bow, 361 painter, 362 seats, 361 rudder, 362; rowlocks, 363. Shelf, a clock, 105 a corner clock, 184. 361
;
;
;
;
;
Shellac, 81.
Spirit level, 27.
57; common-, 60; halved, 60; mitered-, 66.
Spoke-shave, 25. Spool hooks, 155; knobs, 169. Spreader for aerial, 229. Square, a try-, 26 a carpenter's Squares, enlarging by, 207, 287. ;
Shellacking, 81. Shelter, a bird, 387.
Stability planes, 303.
Shelves for workshop, 34; for books, 163. Shoes for sled runners, 288. Shooting-board, 40. Shop equipment, work-benches, 3-13 tools, 14-30; tool-chest, 30; tool-cabinet, S3'^ tool-rack, t,s material boxes, 34-36 horse, 36 chair saw-bench, 38 miterbox, 39 bench-hook, 40 shootingboard, 40. Show, stunts for a boy's vaudeville (see Vaudeville show). Side lamp, a bicycle lamp, 373 a clock-case,
Staflf,
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
373Silicon detector, a Silver grain in
home-made, 236.
26.
a drum-major's, 424.
Staining, 78. Stains, water, 79; Stakes, tent, 340.
oil,
79.
Stand, a tea-pot, 209. Steel square, 26.
Steering foot-bar, sled, 293. Steering-gears, wagon, 369, 374, 375. Steering lines, sled, 293; wagon, 371, 375. Steering-wheels, wagon, 369, 374, 375.
the sharpie, 358. Stem-piece, the punt, 353 the sharpie, 358. Stern-piece, the punt, 353 sizes of, 49. Stock, def. of term, 48 ;
;
Stop, an adjustable bench-, 12.
Stop chamfer,
Sled, a coaster, 287
;
Stops,
a bob-, 290.
71.
home-made bench-,
11; door, 125.
Storage battery, 246. Stove, camp, 347.
Sleeping-bag, 342. Sleeve-board, 145. Sleighs for merry-go-round, 194.
;
;
;
;
;
;
crosstree,
284;
Stove for attic room, 157. platform Structure of wood, 44. Striking-bag, 173;
Smoothing-plane, 20. Snare drums, home-made, 423. Snow battleship, 279; central station, 279; hull, 280; torpedo tube, 281; superstructure deck, 283 conning-tower, 283 forward turret, 283 midship turret, 283 mast, 283 fighting-tops, 283 rapid-fire 283;
steel,
Stool, a foot-, 114.
wood, 45.
model aeroplane, 311.
guns,
60;
;
Skeg, 360. Skids,
fished-,
coach-whip
StufT,
def.
173.
term,
of
dressed, 48
for,
;
48; undressed, 48; matched, 49 matched-and;
beaded, 49. Swing, a bird, 386. Switch, a double-throw single-pole knife, 231; a double-throw double-pole knife, 248.
;
;;
INDEX
43^
a drafting, gi, 133; a desk, 133; a barrel, 166; a doll's round center-, 182 a camp, 349. a doll's dining-, 182 Tabourets, no, 112. Table,
;
;
Tails,
model aeroplane, 316, 325.
Taper, 71. Targets for Willie Shute's vaudeville stunts, 267.
Tea-pot stand, a brass, 209. Telephone receivers, 232. Tenon, 63. Tent, cost of a, 337; how to make an "A," 338; to pitch a, 340.
248; arrangement of instruments, 248; operation of, 249; to make a call, 250; codes, connection of batteries, 250; 253-
Transom
for door, 157.
Tray, a tool, 10; a brass pen, 211. Treasure vaults, castle, 409. Trestletrees, 283.
Triangles, 92.
Trip gong, 376. Trombone, a home-made, 418. Truce, a flag of, 286. Try-square, 26. T-square, 91.
Tuner
(see Tuning-coil).
home-made
Thole-pins, 355.
Tuning-coil, a
Thumb-tacks, 96.
Turnbuckles, 174.
Tickets, admission, 269.
Turrets,
Toe-nailing, 152 (Fig. 173). Tongue-and-groove joint, 66.
snow
"wireless,"
283
battleship,
237.
castle,
;
407.
Twist wire
cloth, 393.
Tool-cabinet, S3Tool-chest, 30.
Tool drawers,
U
10.
Tool-rack, 33. Tools, purchasing,
14; a handy guide for purchasing, 15; the principal, 1 5 a small outfit of, 15; a chest for, 30; cabinet rack for, ss drawing, 90 for, 2)3
Undressed stuff, 48. Uniforms for a boys' band, 424.
brass craft, 206.
Upholstering,
;
;
Tool tray,
"Torpedo
;
Umbrella-stand, 125. Undercutting, 114.
and material
for, 116.
10.
boats"
for
snow
battleship,
286.
Torpedo tube for snow battleship, 281. Towel-rack, 107; a broom-handle, 158. Towel-roller, 147.
Tower, a
bird, 382 a tin-can bird, 382. Toys, cigar-box, 178; an express-wagon, 180; a cart, 180; an auto delivery-wagon, 180; a jack-in-the-box, 181; a roundseated chair, 182 a round center-table, 182; a dining-table, 182; a squareseated chair, 183; a doll's cradle, 183. Toys, clockwork, 189; merry-go-round, 190; "flying miniature Ferris wheel, 198; ;
;
airships," 203.
Tracing-cloth, 97. Tracing-paper, 97.
Transmitting
outfit,
a
"wireless,"
245; aerial, 227; insulating, 229; grounding, spark-gap, an induction-coil, 245 230 246 storage battery, 246 dry batteries, 247; "wireless" key, 248; knife switch, ;
;
;
;
Vanderbilt Pushmobile Varnishing, 83.
Cup
Race, The, 366.
Vaudeville show, stunts for a boys', 256 Sam Dow, 256; lifting feats, 256-260; juggling, 260; Bonehead, 260; magical mortar, 260; the professor, 261; the trick, 261 other mortar the professor's final exthe dummy assistant, 263 Falsetto, 263 the Ventriloquist, 264 his his doll, 264; Willi^ Shute, 266; his blunderbuss, targets, 268; 267; program board, 268; admission tickets,
wonderful hat stunts,
262 hibition, 262
;
;
;
;
;
269. Vaults, castle secret treasure, 409. Ventriloquist, how a boy can be doll for the, 264.
Vise, bench-, 6
Volt, 252.
;
an
iron, 8.
a,
264;
; ;
;
INDEX
W Wagon, a toy livery-,
1
364;
237 tentiometer,
a toy auto de-
express, i8o;
80.
a racing push-
a pushmobile, 368;
373
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
250.
Wireless telegraphy, development
of,
219;
basket, 164.
amateur commercial stations, 223 fundamental principles of, 224 what some boys have accomplished, 221. Wiring a socket, plug, and drop-cord, 132. Wood, structure of, 44; defects in, 47.
stains, 79.
Wood
.
(Fig.
399).
Wash-stand
Waxing,
for attic
room, 158.
Whisk-broom
holders, 105, 185.
drum
targets, 267
polishing, 83 stunts,
266
;
his
his blunderbuss, 278.
;
84
;
oiling,
puttying,
;
;
;
;
8.
aration
47.
scales of,
Wire
cloth, 393. Wireless Club, The Chicago, 222.
219;
code card, 223; call list, 223; aerogram 223; aerial, 227; masts, 230; insulating, 229; grounding, 230; doublethrow, single-pole knife switch, 231 telephone receivers, microphone 232 detector, 233 razor blade microphone detector, 235 silicon detector, 236 tunblanks,
light
for,
3
;
equipment
location for
(see
of,
28.
Writing-desk, a Mission, 129; a box, 160.
;
Yard, a rabbit, 398.
2
Shop
equipment).
Wrench,
;
;
'>re'>-
of, 43.
;
boy's,
'
100.
of,
Working edge, def. of, 56. Working face, def. of, 55. Working material, selection Workshop, the home, i
dividers, 27.
a
;
sandpapering, home-made putty-
84
;
;
Wings, model aeroplane (see Planes).
outfit,
;
;
Working drawings, 86;
Wind-shakes (same as Cup-shakes),
;
;
;
84 caution about oily rags, 85. Work bench, a cabinet-made, 3 a homemade, 3 a solid, 4 a, with tool drawers, ;
knife, 85
seat, 159.
telegraph
mixing paint, 75 75 76; painting, 77; brushes, 77; staining, 78; water stains, 79; oil stains, filler, and filling, 82 79; shellacking, 81 varnishing, 83 waxing, 83 rubbing, 83 finishing,
paints,
;
Winding, testing a board for, 55. Winding-sticks, 55. Windlass, a castle drawbridge, 411.
Wireless
drill bit, 22.
;
major's, 424.
White rat cage, 399. WiUie Shute's vaudeville
Window
;
Wood
joints, 65.
Wheels, the moving-picture revolving, 276. Wheels, wagon, 364, 368, 377. Whistle, a
;
Wood-file, a half round, 25.
83.
Wedging mortise-and-tenon
Wing
;
;
a an auto wagon, 374 simple push wagon, 376. Wainscoting for attic room, 155. Wand, a home-made, 176; rack for a, 177. Warping, cause of wood, 45. Warping model aeroplane planes, 313, 318
Waste Water
fixed condenser, 241 poinduction-coil, 245 243 spark-gap, 246 storage battery, 246 dry batteries, 247 wireless key, 248 doublethrow, double-pole knife switch, 248; arrangement of instruments, 248 operation of instruments, 249 to receive a call, 249; to make a call, 250; codes, ing-coil,
Wagons, pushmobiles and other home-made, mobile,
437