Ann Taylor Ann Taylor Loft Ann Taylor Factory Stores Construction Guidelines JACKETS Lined
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines LINED JACKET INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Loft and Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts. NOTE:
See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and and components.
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: SHADES:
All shades are to be individually labeled.
PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal):
Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment. Sleeve is to match front at pi tch point. Top Collar –Center Back to match body on vertical pattern, where practical. Front Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal patterns (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be “A”/”B” marker. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. documented in Production Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET:
1 1/2” Front Overlap (unless otherwise specified i n Spec Package). 2-Piece Sleeve (with or without Sleeve Vent; S ee Spec Package). NOTE: 1-Piece Sleeve only when style specific per Spec Package. Fully lined, closed bottom. Body lining to have darts corresponding to body shell. NOTE: Body Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch
STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES • • • •
Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores Jackets & Coats. This standard may be applied to Loft jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis. All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut cut on straight grain.
Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece:
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines Set Canvas Chest Piece to Front
Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front
Note: Set Canvas Chest Piece after Front is fused.
Note: Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front after Front is fused.
Anchor Chest Piece
Felt Applied to Canvas Chest Piece
Anchor Chest Piece to Front (Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched or Double Fuse Tape)
Anchor Chest Piece to Front (Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched or Double Fuse Tape)
Anchor Chest Piece at Shoulder w/ Stay Tape
Anchor Chest Piece at Shoulder w/ Stay Tape
Cut Felt piece to finish 1" down from Shoulder
FELT
Anchor Chest Piece at Atmhole (stitch in seam allowance) Cut Canvas on Semi-bias
Remove Felt seam allowance at Armhole (2" down from Shoulder) Anchor Chest Piece at Armhole (stitch in seam allowance)
Cut Felt 3/8" smaller than canvas
Set Felt to Canvas at center of Chest Piece
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines TAPING GUIDELINES • •
Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft. Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.
Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece:
ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (with Canvas)
Set Tape 1" down from shoulder seam
Set w/ Twill Tape on seam line Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
Note:
KUFNER
Front Edge, Bridle
Canvas Floating Chest Piece Armhole Tape Back Neck Tape
V 901 * Charcoal available
K 771
PCC
TP 6000
3170
V901T-B27 * Black available
TP 3000
B901 Front Shoulder Pocket Backing
* Black available
V 401 * Charcoal available
CMW 2004
ii2610
Set Twill Tape w/ 1" - 1 1/2" space at base of armhole seam allowance
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines TAPING GUIDELINES • •
Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores. Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.
Taping for Floating Canvas with “Felt on Canvas” Chest Piece:
Set Tape 1" down from shoulder seam
ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (with "Felt on Canvas" Chest Piece) Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
Note:
LOCATION
Front Edge, Bridle
Canvas Floating Chest Piece
FELT
Felt Chest Piece
Armhole Tape Back Neck Tape
KUFNER
V 901 * Charcoal available
K 771
PCC
TP 6000
3170
V251
V901T-B27 * Black available
TP 3000
B901 Front Shoulder
Pocket Backing
* Black available
V 401 * Charcoal available
Set w/ Twill Tape on seam line
FELT
CMW 2004
ii2610
Set Twill Tape w/ 1 1/4" space at base of armhole seam allowance
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES • • • •
Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for LOFT and Ann Taylor Factory Stores Jackets & Coats. This standard may be applied to Ann Taylor Stores jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis. All Interlining, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut on straight grain.
Fusible with Fused Chest Piece:
Front Front Facing
Top Sleeve
Back
Fused Chest Piece
CB
Side Panel
Add extra pc at curved edge for stable as needed.
Fusible to finish above hemline
Under Collar
ANN TAYLOR INTERLINING STANDARDS (no Canvas) Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
Note:
Weight
Front & Side Body Under Collar Chest Facings, Top Collar & Stand, Back Shoulder, Pocket, Flap, Hems
KUFNER Med.
KUFNER Lt.
PCC Med.
PCC Lt.
B101 R861 * Charcoal
* Charcoal
available
available
ii1020 ii1061
V401 V401 * Charcoal
* Charcoal
available
available
ii2610 ii2610
Under Sleeve
Fusible to finish above hemline
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines TAPING GUIDELINES • •
Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft. Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.
Taping for Fused Chest Piece:
ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (no Canvas)
Set Tape 1" down from shoulder seam
Set w/ Twill Tape on seam line
Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.
Note:
KUFNER
Front Edge, Bridle
V 901 * Charcoal
PCC
TP 6000
available
Armhole Tape, Back Neck Tape
V901T-B27 * Charcoal available
TP 3000
B901 Front Shoulder
Pocket Backing
* Black available
V 401 * Charcoal available
CMW 2004
ii2610
Set Twill Tape w/ 1 1/4" space at base of armhole seam allowance
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS: Description
Seam Allowance 1/2”
General Seams: • • •
SIDES / PANELS CENTER BACK SLEEVE PANELS & SLEEVE VENT
Seam Type & Finish A1-0b Lockstitch; Raw Edge; Open Press
Raw Edge
Lockstitch (underside)
Lockstitch (topside)
See Spec Pkg. for: Princess seam requirements. Topstitched seam requirements. • •
Panel Seam – (with ease at bust area)
1/2” – Panel seam
A1-12 Princess Seam Ease
NOTE:
-
3/8” Princess seam
Ease Front Princess: 1) Pre-stitch front princess between notches with shirring stitch. 2) Join seam.
(Match Notch)
Ease
(Match Notch) (Match Notch)
Open Press
•
Lockstitch
•
Open Press
(NOTE: If Topstitched, press to one side of seam. See Spec Pkg.)
•
Lockstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET: Description Shoulder Seam
Seam Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
1/2”
A1-13 Shoulder Seam (w/ ease)
•
Lockstitch
•
Open Press
•
Lockstitch
Back
Front (Match Notches)
Ease at Back Shoulder between notches
1. Pre-stitch back shoulder between notches w/ shirring stitch. 2. Back Shoulder must be eased into Front Shoulder. * Do not stretch Front Shoulder.
Princess Seam – Round Shape / Angled
3/8”
A1-14a Princess-Round Shape
A1-15a Princess; Angled/Seams Inside of Garment
Inside of Garment * Press seam allowance open Or * Press toward topstitching
* Pressed seam allowance open Or * Press toward topstitching * Ease front panel at curve * Align front & side panel notches * Clip shaped curve as needed for smooth curve finish. e g d E t n or F
•
n or F
t
e g d E
Clip to 1/8" from corner
Notch at corner * If needed
Open press OR press toward Topstitching
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET: Description Sleeve Ease:
Seam Allowance
Seam Type & Finish
A1-16 Sleeve Cap Ease
3/8”
•
* Ease Sleeve Cap evenly * Sleeve Cap & Armhole notches aligned
NOTE: Ease stitch 1/16” – 1/8” from seam line
Ease / Basting Stitch (except with auto-sleeve set machine)
Ease Cap Back Sleeve Cap
Armhole Standard Armhole pressing – “Open press” at top of Armhole (unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
3/8”
A1-17a Jacket Armhole Seam Press Open at Top Shoulder Seam
Press open at top of Armhole (1 1/2" each side of shoulder seam)
Inside of Sleeve
Press toward sleeve
A1-17b Jacket Armhole Seam Press toward Sleeve Shoulder Seam
Inside of Sleeve
Press toward sleeve all around.
•
Lockstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:
Description
Seam Allowance
Collar (Banana Stand Top & Under Collar); 2 Pc Under Collar
1/2” Center Back Seam
Seam Type & Finish
J2-7a Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand w/ Edgestitch at Stand seam
J2-7b Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand No Edgestitch at Stand Inside of Top Collar
Inside of Top Collar
See Spec Pkg.: Collar sketch represents construction only (not for collar / stand shape). Banana Stand seam with or without edgestitch. Collar edge with or without topstitching.
•
•
1/4” Stand Join Seam
1/4” Outer Edge
Inside of Under Collar
Open Press + Edgestitch
Open Press Inside of Under Collar
•
Outside of Top Collar
Outside of Top Collar
Back Stitch
Outside of Under Collar
Bias Cut
Back Stitch
Outside of Under Collar
Bias Cut
•
Lockstitch
•
Open Press
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET: Description Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); with Faux Stand Stitch
See Spec Pkg.: Collar sketch represents construction only (not for collar / stand shape). Collar edge with or without topstitching. •
Seam Allowance 1/2” Center Back Seam
Seam Type & Finish J2-3a Collar - w/o Collar Stand; 2-Pieced Under Collar (w/faux stand stitch line) •
Open Press
Inside View Under Collar
1/4” Outer Edge
•
Lockstitch Open Press – Center Back seam
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point Under Collar
Bias Cut
•
"Faux" Stand Stitch (Under Collar only)
Outside View
w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Top Collar - Outside View
Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); No Faux Stand Stitch
1/2” Center Back Seam
J2-3b Collar - w/o Stand; 2-Piece Under Collar (no faux stand stitch)
•
Open Press Under Collar
See Spec Pkg.: Collar sketch represents construction only (not for collar / stand shape). Collar edge with or without topstitching. •
1/4” Outer Edge
Inside View Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point Under Collar Bias Cut
•
Outside View w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Top Collar - Outside View
•
Lockstitch Open Press – Center Back seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET: Description Lapel / Collar & Neck Join Seam
Seam Allowance 1/4”
Seam Type & Finish J3 Neck Facing / Join Seam - Inside View
•
(Note: sketch references neck construction, not collar type/shape) Jacket Collar-Facing/Neck Seam
Inside Body & Under Collar
See Spec Pkg.: Construction applies to Collars w/ and w/o Banana stand. Collar edge with or without topstitching.
•
Lockstitch Open Press
•
•
Open Press
Open Press
* Attach inside Top Collar to Under Collar along Neck seam allowance to point 1" forward of Shoulder Seam Inside Body & Top Collar
Open Press
Edge Seams: • • • •
1/4”
Open Press
A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)
•
Collar Edge Lapel Edge Front Edge Pocket seams
Lockstitch
Raw Edge
Lockstitch
Lockstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines LEATHER SEAMING Lockstitch – Glued Open Press
A1-25 Lockstitch; Open Press & Glued
Lockstitch – Glued Pressed Closed Seam Details •
Open Press and Glued
•
•
Lockstitch
Seam Details
A1-26 Lockstitch;
•
Pressed Open & glued
•
3/8” to 1/ 2” seam allowance (depending on seam location)
Press to one side and Glued
Lockstitch
Lockstitch
join seam
join seam
Raw Edge
Raw Edge
•
Lockstitch Pressed to one side & glued 3/8” to 1/ 2” seam allowance (depending on seam location)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SWEEP VENT – CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM: A13-a Sweep Vent Inner Construction
A13-b Sweep Inner Construction Wearer's Left
Wearer's Right (Under Extension)
m a e S
Wearer's Left Back Seam allowance Shaped & Tapered to hold Vent Vent Edge
m a e S
Interlining
m a e S
Seam Line
A13-c Sweep Vent Finished - Inside of Lining Waist Seam Line
Hemline g n i m a n i e L S
Interlining to finish above hemline Clean Finish
A13-9 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked Hem Topstitched (at top of Vent) m a e S k c a B
Outside View
A13-10 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked Hem No Topstitch (at top of Vent)
B
m a e S k c a
Blocked Hem
rt
C
C
Top of Vent (no topstitch) e g d E t n e V
Lining w/ 1/2" Curtain Pleat
Outside View
rt
Topstitch
Backstitch
e g d E t n e V
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines 2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT NOTE: Not all styles have Sleeve Vent. See Spec Package:
J5-1b Sleeve Hem view w/o Lining
J5-1a Sleeve Vent - Fusible Inside/Pattern Under Sleeve
Inside Wearer's Left Sleeve
Top Sleeve
Vent Sewn
Vent fold line Sleeve Hem line
Notch when required
Sleeve Hem line
Interlining to finish above Sleeve Hemline
Interlining to finish above Sleeve Hemline Fusible
Do not trim Self
J5-1c Vent - Mitered Seam
Fusible
Mitered Seam line
J5-1d Inside View Wearer's Left Sleeve
(before Lining set)
Mitered Facing
Sleeve Seam
J5-1e Sleeve Vent - Finished Wearer's Left Sleeve - Seamed Vent Front Sleeve
Non-Functional Buttonhole
Mitered Facing
NOTE: Sleeve Hem corner seam allowance is not trimed (for sleeve length alteration)
Vent stitch line
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
* See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonhole Detail
Vent Open Edge (See spec pkg for Vent Ht.)
Mitered Facing
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: • • •
Shoulder Pad & Sleeve Head quality and shape as per Ann Taylor Stores / LOFT standards set by Technical Design. Shoulder Pad Placement from seam as indicated on Sloper or Spec Pkg. Sleeve Head required for all jackets with Shoulder Pads unless otherwise specified in Spec Package.
Set With Lockstitch Along Armhole Seam: J8-1a Shoulder Pad Setting w/ Thread Tack
Thread Tack to the shoulder seam allowance
Set With Hand-Tack At Armhole: J8-1b Shoulder Pad Setting w/Lockstitch
Sleeve Head Setting:
Thread Tack to the shoulder seam allowance
J8-2 Sleeve Head Setting
Shoulder Seam
Shoulder Pad Shoulder Pad
Thread Tack
Thread Tack *See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
Basting Lockstitch; Stitch over Armhole seam
Sleeve Head
Thread Tack Set 1 1/4" from end of Pad
*See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
e v e e l S f o e d i s n I
Set 1 1/4" from end of Pad
Inside of Back Inside of Front
Inside of Front
Inside of Front
Inside of Side Panel
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: •
Attachment method applies to Shoulder Pads set with Lockstitch or with Thread-tack.
Attached With Lining Strip:
Attached With Thread tack:
J8-3a Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder w/Lining Strip
Inside of Facing
J8-3b Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder w/ Thread Tack & Lining Strip Inside of Facing
Inside of Lining
Inside of Lining
Thread Tack
Thread Tack
Lining Strip *Double Layer *1/2" x 1/2"
Shoulder Pad *See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
Shoulder Pad
*See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.
a d r P e l d u h o S
Inside of Sleeve Lining
a d r P e l d u h o S
Inside of Sleeve Lining
Inside of Lining Inside of Lining Inside of Front Shell
LINING STRIP * Double Layer (1/2" x 1") * Attach at Natural Side Seam Inside of Side Panel
Inside of Front Shell
LINING STRIP * Double Layer (1/2" x 1") * Attach at Natural Side Seam Inside of Side Panel
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: NOTE: Back Facing eliminated only when confirmed for exception cases and indicated with sketch in Spec Package. J9-1a Lining CB Seam Pleat w/ Back Neck Facing
Lining Center Back Seam -
J9-1b Lining CB Seam Pleat No Back Neck Facing
Neck Seam
Seam
Facing
A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat
CB Seam Knife Pleat * Pleat opening at Facing seam * 1/2" deep * Press to wearer's right
Knife Pleat * Pleat opening 2" down from Neck seam * 1/2" deep * Press to wearer's right
Taper pleat to 0" at waist
Taper pleat to 0" at waist
CB Seam
CB Seam
ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH EXCEPTIONS:
Hem with attached facing
Topstitched Hem
•
•
J9-3a Front Hem/Facing Envelope Finish
Lining
Facing 1/2" Curtain Pleat
Lining
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Lining
Shell
Prior to Facing / Lining seamed at Hem.
Cross-Section w/ Lining attached
Hem Finish w/ Curtain Pleat
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES: Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing
Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Topstitched J9-3c Front Facing Finish w/ Front & Hem Topstitched
J9-3b Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing Inside of Body Facing
Inside of Lining
Lining
Facing
1/2" Curtain Pleat Cross-Section w/ Lining attached
Open Press Seam Allowance
Lining
Inside of Hem Facing
1/2" Curtain Pleat Cross-Section w/ Lining attached Lining
Backstitch
Topstitch * See Spec Pkg.
LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: J4-2a Lapel/ Front Edge Finish Note: Front edge may not have "backstitch" when front edge is topstitched.
J4-2c Jacket Attached Facing
Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing
Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing
Note: Front edge may not have "backstitch" when front edge is topstitched.
Front Facing
Backstitch Under Lapel
J4-2b Jacket Attached Facing
Note: Front edge may not have "backstitch" when front edge is topstitched.
Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
2" up from Top Buttonhole
Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Lining Backstitch
1" below Top Buttonhole
Front Facing Backstitch
Front Edge Seam
Front Edge Seam Backstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines LINING FINISHING: J9-4b Lining Finishing w/ 1-Piece Sleeve
J9-4a Lining Finishing w/ 2-Piece Sleeve
Inside Garment
Inside Garment
Facing
Facing
Close Lining at * Front panel seam * Wearer's Left Sleeve
Front Facing
Front Facing
Back Lining
Back Lining
Close Lining at wearer's Left Sleeve
Front Lining
Front Lining
Blindstitch Sleeve Hem
Internal Tack Internal Tack
Internal Tack
1/2" Curtain Pleat
If blindstitch will damage fabric, use 2 pcs of Fusible Tape w/ Blindstitch in between tape layers
LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARER’S LEFT FRONT: NOTE: Inside Pocket is not standard for all styles. See Spec Pkg. J9-2 Lining Chest Pocket Inner View
Inside Wearer's Left Front
Facing
Facing
Internal Tack
Internal Tack NOTE:
Lining
Lining Besom Pocket See Spec Pkg for Pocket Placement
Fusible
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
Internal Tack
1/2" Curtain Pleat
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BUTTON SETTING • • • • • •
Set buttons with “Locking” stitch. Setting Placement: 2-Hole Button set with 2 holes aligned with Buttonhole. Logo buttons to be set with Logo in same direction. Buttons with self-shank do not require Thread Shank. Double Breasted Inside Button Type – 2-Hole: Flat (no rim); DTM. Leather and Suede - Stay button for all “functional” buttons. •
4-Hole Button with parallel stitch, unless otherwise specified.
•
Front Closure Button Setting:
J10-1a Button Setting - Parallel Stitch w/ Functional Buttonholes
J10-1b Button Setting - "X" Stitch w/ Functional Buttonholes
* Parallel Stitch * Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
J10-1c Button Setting - "X" Stitch w/ Functional Buttonholes
* "X" Stitch * Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
* "X" Stitch * Thread Shank w/ Wrap
Thread Shank w/ Wrap
Thread Shank w/ Wrap
* "X" Stitch
Sleeve Vents W/Non-Functional Button Setting:
J10-2a Sleeve Vent Button Setting w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes Parallel Stitch
J10-2b Sleeve Vent Button Setting w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes "X" Stitch
Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent * See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonholes Placement w ei V t n or F
Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent * See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonholes Placement
* Parallel Stitch * Button set through Shell layers only. (Not set to Lining)
ie V t n or F
w
* "X" Stitch * Button set through Shell layers only. (Not set to Lining)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING HANDTACKING Initial Knot
Initial Knot
Self Fabric
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or yarn
Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial knot.
Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to ¼”.
Rosette/embellishment Initial Knot
Ending Knot
Step 5 Step 4 Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from initial knot on self fabric.
Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more than ¼” long.
Step 6 After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing i n the same manner as step 1 and step 2.
MACHINE TACKING 1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only “lockstitch” buttonhole machine can be used for Ann Taylor product. 2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure 3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.
BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION HAND TACKING 1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout 2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point . 3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position . 4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed ¾” on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than ¾” is not acceptable . 5. For beading spacing longer than ¾” or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines TACKING FINISH: Note: NO “X” Tack used if fabric surface will be damaged by tack.
Back Sweep Vent “X” Tack
Slit “X” Tack
A14-15 Slit-"X" Tack
A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack for Shipping Outside Garment
Inside Garment
Lining m a e S
g m n a i n e i S L
"X" Tack for Shipping
e g d E t n e V
"X" Tack for Shipping
Peaked Lapel J10-5 Peaked Lapel w/ Tack
Whip Tack (See Spec Pkg for tack placement)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52) DARTS: A2-1a Jacket Waist Dart Single Point (Front / Back)
A2-1 Waist Dart Open End Sewing Direction w/ Pocket
A2-2a Jacket Waist Dart Double Points (Front / Back)
A2-3a Jacket Bust Dart
w/o Pocket
Stitch dart from Top to Bottom
Press Dart toward Hem
Stitch dart from Top to Bottom Press Dart Open
Press Dart toward Center Frt
*Note: Do Not Stretch Dart When Sewing
A2-4 French Dart
A2-5 Lapel Dart Straight Dart
Press Dart Open
Press Dart toward Hem
A2-6 Lapel Dart Shaped Press Dart Open
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines COLLAR OPTIONS: NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only , not for Collar shape. •
Collar Edge with or without Topstitching.
•
See specification package.
•
Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam) J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar Edgestitch at Stand seam
J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch at Stand seam Inside View
Inside View Top Collar
Open Press + Edgestitch
Top Collar
Open Press Open Press; No Edgestitch
Open Press Under Collar
Under Collar Bias Cut
J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar Edgestitch at Stand seam Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Outside View
Bias Cut
J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch at Stand seam Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Outside View
Top Collar
Top Collar Edgestitch
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point Under Collar
Bias Cut
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Under Collar
Bias Cut
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only , not for Collar shape. •
Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar J2-2a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar w/ Topstitch
Collar Edge with or without Topstitching.
•
Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch) J2-4a Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar (w/faux stand stitch line) Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Open Press + Edgestitch
Top Collar - Inside
See specification package.
•
Top Collar - Outside View w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg Top Collar - Outside
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Under Collar - Outside
Under Collar
Bias Cut
Bias Cut
"Faux" Stand Stitch (Under Collar only)
Outside View
J2-2b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch
Top Collar - Inside
J2-4b Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar (w/ No faux stand stitch line) Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg
Open Press; No Edgestitch
Top Collar - Outside View w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg Top Collar - Outside
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
Under Collar - Outside
Under Collar Bias Cut
Outside View
Bias Cut
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only , not for Collar shape. •
Collar Edge with or without Topstitching.
•
See specification package.
•
Collars with Full Stand: J2-5a Collar w/ Full Stand; Open Press Top Collar/Stand w/ Edgestitch Outside View
Inside View Edgestitch
Top Collar
Top Collar
Open Press + Edgestitch
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point Under Collar
Bias Cut
Under Collar
Bias Cut
Edgestitch on stand
Press toward Stand + Edgestitch
J2-5b Collar w/ Full Stand; No Topstitch at Stand seam Inside View
Outside View
Top Collar
Top Collar
Press toward Stand: No Topstitch
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point Under Collar
Bias Cut
Under Collar
Bias Cut
Press toward Stand: No Topstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: Collar sketches are reference for construction only , not for Collar shape. •
Collar Edge with or without Topstitching.
•
See specification package.
•
Collar w/ Full Stand J2-5c Collar w/ Full Stand; Edgestitch / Topstitch Stand Seam Outside View
Top Collar
Inside View
Edgestitch OR Topstitch * See Spec Pkg
Top Collar
Press toward Stand
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point Under Collar
Bias Cut
Under Collar
Edgestitch OR Topstitch * See Spec Pkg
Press toward Stand
Mandarin Collar
J2-6 Stand Collar/ Mandarin Collar (with or without Topstitch) Top Collar
Back Stitch (if no Topstitch) Inside Collar
Bias Cut
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS: J4-1a 1-Piece Facing Shaped to Shoulder
J4-1c "Split" Facing
J4-1b Pieced Lapel & Facing
Pieced Front
Front Facing
Split Facing Seam
Pieced Facing
Front Lapel Dart
Lining Lining
Lining
Front Facing
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines HIDDEN PLACKETS: J4-3a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched
J4-3b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Finshed View
Wearer's Right Front - Body
Wearer's Right Facing
Outside View Wearer's Right
Inside View Wearer's Right Facing
Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes
Lining Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg): A) Topstitched Button Separator or B) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
Topstitch
Topstitch
Button Separator Inner Tack
Interior Tack
Lining or Fabric layer
J4-4a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch
J4-4b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch Interior Construction
Finished View
Wearer's Right Front - Body
Wearer's Right Facing
Finished Wearer's Right - Body
Inner Layers Attached w/ Blindstich
Finished Wearer's Right Facing
Button Separator / Inner Tack between Buttonholes
Lining Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg): A) Topstitched Button Separator or B) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
Blindstitch
Button Separator Inner Tack
Interior Tack
Blindstitch Lining or Fabric layer
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines HIDDEN PLACKETS (continued): J4-5a Hidden Placket-Attached; set w/ Crackstitch
J4-5b Hidden Placket-Attached; Crackstitch Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Finished View Finished Wearer's Right Facing
Finished Wearer's Right - Body
Wearer's Right Facing
Wearer's Right Front - Body
Interior Tack
Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes
* Attached Placket * Set to Facing w/ Crackstitch
Lining
Button Separator Inner Tack
Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg): A) Attached Button Separator or B) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
Inside View Crackstitch
*Note: Placket may have Topstitch See spec pkg.
Lining or Fabric layer
J4-7 Mock Hidden Placket
J4-6 Top Applied Placket
Outside View Wearer's Left
Outside View Wearer's Right
Step 1
Outside View Wearer's Right
Outside View Wearer's Left
Inside View Weaerer's Right
Bottom of Placket
Bottom of Placket
Interlining
Wearer's Right
Step 2 Finished
Wearer's Left
Wearer's Right - Step 1
Wearer's Right - Step 2
Wearer's Left
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines KISSING CLOSURES: J4-8a Kissing Front - w/ Frog Closure Wearer's Left Front Inside Extension
J4-8b Kissing Front - Right Front Loop; Wearer's Left Inside Extension Inside View
Outside View Wearer's Right
Outside View Wearer's Left
Wearer's Left
Wearer's Right
Outside View Wearer's Left
Note: See Spec Pkg for * Loop Type * Loop & Button Placement
Note: See Spec Pkg for * Frog Type * Frog & Button Placement
Inside Placket
J4-8d Kissing Front -Left Front Loop; Wearer's Right Front Inside Extension
J4-8c Kissing Front - Self Fold Placket Right Front Loop; Wearer's Left Inside Extension
Inside View Inside View
Outside View Wearer's Right
Note: See Spec Pkg for * Loop Type * Loop & Button Placement
Outside View Wearer's Left
Wearer's Left
Outside View Wearer's Right
Outside View Wearer's Left
Wearer's Right
Note: See Spec Pkg for * Loop Type * Loop & Button Placement
Weaerr's Left
Wearer's Right
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER:
A14-6 Slit w/Bendback Facing Mitered Corner - Lined
A14-6a Slit - No Tack Outside Garment m a e S
Inside Garment m a e S
Lining
Lining
Mitered Corner
A14-6b Slit - Stitch Tack Outside Garment Stitch-tack
m a e
S
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
A14-6c Slit - Bartack Outside Garment Bartack
m a e S
*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines WELT POCKETS: Note:
Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. Placement can be angled or horizontal. Pocket can be with or without Topstitching.
• •
•
J6-1 Welt Pocket - Angled; Inside View Inside of Garment w/o Facing
Inside of Garment w/Facing
See specification package.
•
J6-1a Welt Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch Outside of Garment
J6-1c Welt Pocket- Angled w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end Tack to Princess seam allowance
J6-1 Welt Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View Inside of Garment w/o Face
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end Tack to Princess seam allowance
Inside of Garment w/Facing
J6-1b Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch Outside of Garment
J6-1d Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines CHEST POCKET: Note:
Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. Pocket with or without Topstitch. See Specification Package.
• •
J6-1e Chest Pocket Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Base closed w/ 1/2" open at each end
3" @ center
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BESOM POCKETS: Note:
Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. Placement can be angled or horizontal. Pocket can be with or without Topstitching.
• •
•
J6-3 Besom Pocket - Angled; Inside View Inside of Garment w/o Facing
J6-3a Besom Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch Inside of Garment w/Facing
See specification package.
•
Outside of Garment
J6-3c Besom Pocket - Angled w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end Tack to Princess seam allowance
J6-3 Besom Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View Inside of Garment w/o Facing
Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end Tack to Princess seam allowance
Inside of Garment w/Facing
J6-3b Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch Outside of Garment
J6-3d Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch Outside of Garment
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: Note:
Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. Placement can be angled or horizontal. Pocket can be with or without Topstitching.
• •
•
J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled
Inside of Garment - Tack Option 2
Inside of Garment - Tack Option 1 Attach to Frt Facing Frt Edge w/ Lining Strip
F
e g d E t n or F
J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch, w/Bartack
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
Outside of Garment
Outside of Garment
e g d E t n or
Stitch Tack under Facing
Stitch Tack Closed w/ 1/2" Open at each ends
Stitch Tack Closed w/ 1/2" Open at each ends
J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
e g d E t n or F
w/o Bartack
w/ Bartack
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/Bartack
Outside of Garment
F
e g d E t n or
w/o Bartack
e g d E t n or
w/o Bartack
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack
J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack Outside of Garment
w/ Bartack
e g d E t n or F
J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack
Outside of Garment
Outside of Garment
e g d E t n or F
e g d E t n or F
Outside of Garment
F
J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack
See specification package.
•
e g d E t n or F
w/o Bartack
Outside of Garment
e g d E t n or F
w/ Bartack
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines VERTICAL “ONSEAM” POCKET: J6-5a Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with Bendback / Extended Facing Outside of Garment
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Opening
g in n e p o t e k c o P
Edgestitch
Bendback (see Spec Pkg for Facing width)
Top Pocket Bag
Under Pocket Bag
Opening
J6-5b Vertical "Onseam" Pocket w/ Attached Facings Outside of Garment
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing
Opening g in n e p o t e k c o P
Edgestitch
Top Pocket Bag
Attached Facing w/ Backstitch or Topstitch (see Spec Pkg for Facing width) Opening
J6-5c Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with No Facing; Attached Pocket Bag Outside of Garment
Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing
Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension
Opening
g in n e p o t e k c o P
Attached Pocket Bag w/ Backstitch
Top Pocket Bag
Opening
Under Pocket Bag
Attached Pocket Bag w/ Backstitch
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines PATCH POCKETS: Note:
Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size.
•
Pocket can be with or without Topstitching.
•
•
See specification package.
Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Bendback Facing:
J6-6a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing "Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch
J6-6b Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing "Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
1" Bendback Facing
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
1" Bendback Facing Seamed inside
Seamed inside
Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Attached Facing: J6-6c Patch Pocket - Attached Facing "Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch
J6-6d Patch Pocket - Attached Facing "Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish * 1" Attached Facing * Backstitch or Topstitched. See Spec Pkg
Seamed inside
Seamed inside
* 1" Attached Facing * Backstitch or Topstitched. See Spec Pkg
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
Topstitch setting: J6-7a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing Topstitched Setting Topstitch to set Pocket
Overedge Finish * See spec pkg
Single Bendback
Bendback Facing
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
J6-7b Patch Pocket - Attached Facing Topstitched Setting Topstitch to set Pocket
Overedge Finish * See spec pkg
Single Bendback
* 1" Attached Facing * Backstitch or Topstitched. See Spec Pkg
* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines POCKET FLAP – WELT OR BESOM POCKET: Flap Pocket can be angled or horizontal.
Flap can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed).
•
Under Flap: * Cut smaller than outer flap. * Cut on bias.
Under Flap
Outside of Garment
Outside of Garment
Flap Set above Welt Edge
Flap Set above Welt Edge
J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge) Outside of Garment
Under Flap
Under Flap
Raw Edge Enclosed
•
J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap (no Topstitch at outer edge)
Under Flap
Flap set into Welt seam
Flap set into Welt seam
Bias
Under Flap: * Cut smaller than outer flap. * Cut on bias.
J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap
J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)
J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap
J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)
Outside of Garment
Outside of Garment
Outside of Garment
Outside of Garment Under Flap
Raw Edge Enclosed
Under Flap
J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)
Outside of Garment Raw Edge Enclosed
Under Flap
See specification package.
•
J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap (no Topstitch at outer edge)
Bias
Under Flap
Raw Edge Enclosed
Flap Set above Welt Edge
Under Flap
Under Flap
Flap Set above Welt Edge
Flap set into Welt seam
Flap set into Welt seam
POCKET FLAP – Patch pocket: Flap Pocket can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed).
•
J7-3a Flap-Patch Pocket No Topstitch; w/ Stitch-tack
J7-3b Flap-Patch Pocket No Topstitch; w/ Bartack
Raw Edge Enclosed
J7-4b Flap-Patch PocketTopstitch w/ Bartack Under Flap: Bias Bartack
Under Flap: Bias Stitch Tack
Under Flap: Bias Bartack
Under Flap: Stitch-tack Bias
Raw Edge Enclosed
See specification package.
•
J7-4a Flap-Patch PocketTopstitch w/ Stitch-tack
Raw Edge Enclosed
Raw Edge Enclosed
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines PLEATS: Inverted Pleat
Box Pleat A3-1 Inverted Pleat
A3-2 Box Pleat
Outside View
Outside View
Inside View
Edgestitch to Control Pleat
Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping: A3-5 Inverted Pleat "X" Tack for Shipping
Pintuck A3-4 Pintuck
Knife / Single Side Pleat A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat
A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BINDING & PIPING FINISHES: A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler A6-1 Full Clean Finish w/Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment Edge finished w/ Facing OR Lining Backstitch Note: No Backstitch if edge is Topstitched
Folded
Piping w/ or w/o Filler
BUTTONHOLES: A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish
Topside
A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched
A10-4b Bound Buttonhole Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole
Underside (looks same as Topside)
Topside
Underside
Topside
Underside
w/ or w/o Gimp Filler (* See Spec pkg Trim)
Topside
(looks same as Topside)
(Straight Buttonhole)
A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end
A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather
A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole w/ Fishtail End w/ or w/o Gimp (* See Spec pkg Trim)
A10-3 Regular/Straight Buttonhole
Bartack
A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole Horizontal
Seam
A10-5b
On-Seam Buttonhole Vertical
Seam
Underside
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines ZIPPER FRONT CLOSURES: A4-1b Lapped Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
A4-2b Kissing Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish
See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish
A4-3b Exposed Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish
A4-4b Invisible Zipper Setting - Open Bottom
* See Spec Pkg for Front Facing
Open End
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines ZIPPER TERMS: NOTE: See specification package for “Ri ght” for “Left” Zipper Pull.
Zipper illustrations are generic.
•
•
Common Zipper Types
Sealed at Top
Sealed End
(A) Closed end Invisible type
(A) Closed end Normal type
(B) 2 - Ended Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms Top Stops
Zipper Dimension Terms
Stringer
Tape Bead Teeth
(D) 2 Pulls 2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull Open End
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended Closed
Opened
Closed
Tape Width
Retainer Pin
Cord
Slider Pull
Length of Fastener
Chain
Retainer Separable Pin Bottom Stop
Tape Ends
Chain Width
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines OTHER CLOSURES: A10-6a Crochet Button Loop Kissing Setting
A10-6b Crochet Button Loop -
A10-7a Button Loop Kissing Setting
A10-7b Button Loop Open Setting
Open Setting
A10-8 Folder Button Loop A10-7c Button Loop Closed Setting
A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure
Top Side
Under side of Loop
A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye
A11-2a Hook & Bar a. Machine Set
* Note: Reinforce w/ Self or Interlining
A11-1b Hook & Straight Eye
A11-2b Hook & Bar
A11-1c Hook & Loop
A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape
b. Hand Set Hook Tape
Loop Tape
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines BELT LOOPS: A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop
A12-3 Folder Finish-Belt Loop
A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop
A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop
Top side
Under side
Seam at edge.
Press w/ Seam centered
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop
A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop (at seam)
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop (set in Seam)
Seam
A12-5 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Outside Stitch-tack @ Top (4) Reverse Bendback
(3) Inside Stitch-tack
(1) Stitch-tack
A12-6 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Inside Stitch-tack (5) Outside Stitch-tack
(4) Reverse Bendback
A12-7 Clean Finish @ Bottom; Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack (5) Inside Stitch-tack
(3) Single Bendback
(4) Bartack
(3) Inside Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback
(1) Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback
(1) Stitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines DECORATIVE STITCHES: DST-1 Pearl Stitch
DST-2 Shell Stitch
*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.
*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape.
Outside Garment
Inside Garment
Pearl Stitch
Outside Garment
Inside Garment
Shell Stitch
DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch
DST-4 Picot Stitch
* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have wavy Lettuce leaf edge. * See spec pkg for stitch width & density.
* Two thread multi-step Chainstitch formed just off edge.
Outside Garment
Inside Garment
Outside Garment
Lettuce Edge Surging Stitch
Picot Stitch
DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting *Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges. *See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.
DTS-6 Pick Stitch *See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.
* Stitch Length and Spacing may be even or uneven.
Two Needle Fagoting
Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.