Textile Internship Report at Alok Industries Ltd.

REPORT OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP AT ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD.

Submitted By: Ashutosh Vatsa Kr. Pramendra Sinha Pankaj Pathak Sushant Kumar Batch 2009-13, semester VI

National Institute of Fashion Technology Plot no. 15, Sector-4, Kharghar, Navi Mumbai, Maharashtra, 410210

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in learning process during this internship. There are many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people who has to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and efficiently. effici ently. We wish wish to than thank k our our Profe Profess ssor or,, Dr. Dr. A.K. A.K. Khar Khare e for for prov provid idin ing g this this wond wonder erfu full oppo opportu rtuni nity ty,, chal challe leng ngin ing g and and motiv motivat atio ion. n. We are are also also than thankf kful ul to our our Cour Course se Coordinator Mr. T.S. Prakash and our textile faculty Ms. Aboli Naik for their support and guidance. No amount of Gratitude is adequate for Mr. Dilip B. Jiwrajka, Managing Director, Alok Indus Industrie tries s Ltd., Ltd., for his consen consentt in allowin allowing g us to conduc conductt our internshi internship p in their their venerated institution. We expres express s our deep indebt indebtedn edness ess to Mr. Manoj Mondol, Mondol, HR manage managerr and Mr. Akshesh Karnik, HR executive who guided and supported us through every stage of  our internship. We also wish to thank a couple of senior managers as listed below for their technical guidance and assistance during internship. i nternship. Mr. S S Aich, CEO, Vapi Plant Mr. Rinku Nath, VP, HR, Training & Development Mr. Arvind Sharma, VP, P.P.C Department Mr. B.M Chauhan, Head, Raw Material Storage-Greige Mr. Dayanand Rana, Head, Raw Material Storage-Died Fabric Mr. Sanjay Baskar, Head, Sizing Department Mr. A.G Kurien, Head, Quality Assurance Department Mr. Deepak Geedh, Weaving Plant I Head Mr. P.K Das, Weaving Plant IV Head Mr. Pradeep Sharma, Weaving Plant V Head Mr. Ashok Jalela, Weaving Plant VI Head Mr. Anoop Singh, Weaving Plant IX Head Mr. P. Chattopadhyay, Weaving Plant VII Head Mr.Vinay Tendulkar, Weaving Plant III Head Mr. Tek Singh, Inspection & Folding Department Mr.Pradeep Bhatt, Packing & Dispatch Department We take this opport opportun unity ity to expres express s our affect affection ion towards towards our parents parents for their their consistent faith and support.

Ashutosh Vatsa Kr. Pramendra Sinha Pankaj Pathak Sushant Kumar 2|Page

Contents 1.0

Introduction

2.0

Obje Objec ctiv tive of Inte Intern rnsh ship ip

3.0

Schedule of of Int Inte ernship

4.0

Spinning 4.1

Blow Room

4.2

Carding

4.3

Combing

4.4

Drawing

4.5

Roving

4.6

Ring spinning

4.7

Open end spinning

4.8

Winding

4.9

Conditioning

4.10 Packing 5.0

Polymerization 5.1

Cont Contin inuo uou us Poly olymeriza rizattion ion

5.2.1 Partially Oriented Yarn 5.2.2 Texturization 5.3 Fully Drawn Yarn 6.0 Weaving 6.1 Warping 6.2 Sizing 6.3 Denting and Drawing In 3|Page

6.4 Weaving 7.0 Preparatory process for Dyeing and Printing 7.1 Singeing 7.2 Desizing 7.3 Pre- Treatment Range 7.4 Mercerizing 8.0 Fabric and yarn dyeing 8.1 Cold Pad Batch 8.2 Continuous Dyeing Range 8.3 Benninger Pad Steamers 8.4 Dyed Fabric Washing 8.5 Yarn Dyeing

9.0 Printing 10.0 Finishing 10.1 Stenter 10.2 Sanforising 10.3 Calendering 10.4 Microsanding 10.5 Brushing 11.0 Testing and Inspection 11.1 Yarn Testing 11.2 Fabric Testing 11.3 Defects in Fabric

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1.0

Introduction

B F Tech (Apparel Production) is a 4 years course focusing on application of  technology in apparel production. Textile being raw material for apparels is given adequate emphasis in the course. Inputs on textile manufacturing are spread to three semesters. To complement and to comprehend the class room teaching, a 2 weeks internship after Vth semester in textile sector is a part of  the course. Internees did this internship at Alok Industries Ltd. at their Silvassa and Vapi plants during 22nd December 2011 – 4 th January 2012. The company profile is enclosed as Appendix I. 2.0

Objective of Internship

 The main objective of this internship was to learn •

•

•

 The process of spun yarn production, different qualities of yarn produced and reasons for variation. Grey fabric (both woven and knitted) production, defects associated with it and treatments carried out on it depending upon its properties. Dyeing, Printing and Finishing of fabric, Textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purposes.

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3.0 Schedule of Internship:

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4.0 Spinning

Raw Materials Cotton comes in bale form of bales, the weight of this baggy structure is about 265 Kg. The different varieties of cotton like BT cotton, conventional cotton like Supima from USA, Gizas from Egypt, Imported cotton from contamination free origin, Organic and Organic Fair trade cotton are used for yarn manufacturing. The staple length varies from 28mm to 33mm.

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 The raw cotton is procured from the open market, primarily from states of  Gujarat, Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh. Cotton is also imported from Egypt. An average nine months inventory of raw cotton is maintained primarily for yarn manufacturing. Alok promote contract farming and buying cotton in bulk.

4.1 Blow Room Objective •

 To open the compressed bale of cotton.

•

 To extract impurities and other foreign matters from cotton by opening and beating.

•

 To allow passage of clean cotton either as fluffy mass or as lap (chute feed or lap feed) to the next machine

Input Bale of cotton •

Bale weight – Average 265 kg

•

Relative humidity maintained in blow room (preparatory) – 55-60%

Output Clean open cotton fiber. A blow room is the area of a spinning unit where opening, cleaning, mixing and lap making of cotton fiber take place on machines. The cotton is received in the mill in a hard pre-bale form which contains several impurities.  The

blow

room

machinery

performs

function of opening hard pressed bales of  cotton

and

cleaning

the

cotton

of  12 | P a g e

impurities. Trash and foreign matter is extracted from the cotton with the least amount of lint loss. The amount of waste extracted would depend on the amount of trash in the mixing. At Alok Industries Ltd., UNIFLOCK  automatic bale opener machines are used to open bales. The bales being opened are placed lengthwise or crosswise on both sides of the bale opener, and the take-off unit can process up to four different assortments. The machine opens the bales in micro tuft for effective cleaning and dust extraction. This machine gives the output of up to 1400kg/hr. These micro tufts pass by pipes using pneumatic force.

Dust particle are removed manually as well as using

machines. Vision shield and magic eye, are the machine used in Alok for detecting of  dust particles. •

Vision shield: this machine uses an ultraviolet light source, combined with a light detector, to identify foreign bodies.

•

Magic eye:  This machine can detect white colored and difficult to identify by naked eyes synthetics like Polypropylene, independently of  optical bleaches or polarization effects.

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INFRASTRUCTURE Machines used in blow room:

S. No.

Machine/Equipme nt

Purpose

No. of Machines/ Equipments

1

A 11 UNIfloc

Bale Openers

4

2

Jossi THE VISION SHIELD MPIX

foreign fiber detection

8

3

B 11 UNIclean

pre-cleaners

2

4

B 12 UNIclean

pre-cleaners

2

5

B 70 UNImix

blenders

4

6

B 71 UNImix

blenders

4

7

B 60 UNIflex

fine cleaners

5

8

A 78 UNIstore

feeder

1

Table 1: Machine Capacity in Blowroom

4.2 Carding Carding is known as the ‘heart of spinning’. This process is done for the individualization of the cotton fibers. The fibers after this process get arranged into parallel form from zigzag arrangement. Objective 1. To open the flocks into individual fibers 2. Cleaning or elimination of impurities 3. Elimination of dust 14 | P a g e

4. Elimination of short fibers 5. Fiber blending 6. Fiber orientation or alignment 7. Sliver formation

Input Cotton in the form of lap

Output Carded sliver

Waste •

Flat stripes

•

Licker

•

Cylinder fly

Carded sliver is either directly used in Open-End Spinning or used for further processing for ring spinning. At Alok Industries Ltd., C-60 cards machines are used for carding. Speed of carding machine is 50kg/hr.  There are two types of feeding to the cards, •

Lap feed system- fibers are formed into a lap or a compact sheet

•

Chute feed system- flocks are transported pneumatically.

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At ALOK Industries Chute Feed system is used.  The advantages and disadvantages of Chute Feed system are as follows:

Advantages 1. High performance in carding due to high degree of openness of feed web. 2. Labor requirement is less due to no lap transportation and lap change in cards. 3. For high production cards, only chute feeding system is suitable.

Disadvantages 1. Linear density of the web fed to the card is not as good as lap. 2. The installation is not flexible.

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3. Auto leveler is a must for controlling weight per unit length, hence investment cost and maintenance cost is more.

Principle of Carding: •

Short fibers which are responsible for hairiness and reduction in strength are to be removed

•

Cotton is introduced in the form of flocks and obtained in the form of  slivers.

•

At carding, the faults like neps, hooked ends can come. These faults can be rectified at the later stages.

•

Rollers used in the carding machines are fixed at certain distance that defines the minimum length of fiber required. This eliminates shorter fibers but also gives rise to hooks (fibers held by front rollers form trailing hooks while fibers held by back rollers form leading hooks).

INFRASTRUCTURE Machines used in Carding: Machine models Rieter C 60 cards

No Of machines 43

4.3 Combing When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening called combing. Combing is the process which is used to upgrade the raw material. It influences the following yarn properties: 1. Yarn evenness 2. Strength 17 | P a g e

3. Cleanness 4. Smoothness 5. Visual appearance In addition to the above, combed cotton needs less twist than a carded yarn because the short fibers are removed.

Purpose of Combing: In order to produce an improvement in yarn quality, the comber must perform the following operations: 1. Elimination of short fibers 2. Elimination of remaining impurities 3. Elimination of neps  The basic operation of the comber is to improve the mean length or staple length by removing the short fibers. Since fineness of short fibers (noil) is low, the overall micronaire of the sliver after combing is high. Because of combing, fiber parallelization increases. Input Uni-Lap Output Combed sliver

PROCESS

UNIlap E 32 combing preparation

For combing sliver from the carding, it is passed through pre-comber drawing and then through the uni-lap to get smaller lap of cotton. These laps are then

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fed to combers to get sliver, which has 14 % to 18 % of shorter staples removed from it. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers are combed out and completely separated out from the longer fibers.

INFRASTRUCTURE Machine models UNIlap E 32 combing machines E 65 combers

No Of machines preparation 8 34

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4.4 Drawing Objective •

•

•

•

•

•

 Through doubling, the slivers are made even Doubling results in homogenization (blending)  Through draft, fibers get parallelized Hooks created in the card are straightened  Through the suction, intensive dust removal is achieved Autoleveller maintains absolute sliver fineness

Input Combed or carded sliver

Output Drafted sliver  The main output of drawing is a more uniform sliver with uniform mass/length distribution.

PROCESS In this process six sliver are combined together.  The combining of several fibers for the drawing, or drafting, process eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were pulling through singly. 20 | P a g e

 The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per minute.  The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. Draw frame contributes less than 5% to production cost of yarn. But its influence on quality is very big, because drawing is the final process of quality improvement in the spinning mill and quality of draw frame sliver determines the final yarn quality.

INFRASTRUCTURE Machine models SB-D 40 breaker draw frames RSB-D 40 auto leveler draw frames

No Of machines 18 19

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4.5 Roving Objective •

Reduces the thickness of the sliver into roving, imparts twists and winds it around a bobbin.

•

 The main function of speed frame is to make roving from the draft sliver that has strength to withstand the tension variations at ring frame.

Input Sliver

Output Rove

Purpose of Roving: Sliver is thick, untwisted strand that tends to be hairy and to create fly. The draft needed to convert this is around 300 to 500. Drafting arrangements of  ring frames are not capable of processing this strand in a single drafting operation to create a yarn that meets all the normal demands on such yarns. Hence, roving frame is used. PROCESS  The can of sliver from drawing frames is fed between three sets of drafting rolls. Each following set of rolls runs faster than preceding sets. This pulls sliver and thins it down, making fibers nearly parallel. Drawing out and 22 | P a g e

twisting take place until the cotton stock is about the diameter of a pencil lead.

 The spindle turns flyer and is driven at a constant speed. The front rolls are set at a speed that gives strand coming out of the rolls a predetermined number of turns of twist per inch as it move along between rolls and flyer. The bobbin is driven by a source separate from gear that drives spindle and flyer. The bobbin is regulated to turn automatically at a speed sufficiently faster than flyer, which causes roving to wind on bobbin at same rate as it is delivered by front roll. To this point, only enough twist has been given the stock to hold the fibers together.

INFRASTRUCTURE

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Machine models F 15 roving frames

with

No Of machines 160 18

spindles each

4.6 Ring Spinning Ring Frame gives the final output for spinning i.e. yarn. The productivity of the factory is determined by the output of the ring frame.

Objective •

It reduces the thickness of the roving to the desired yarn count by means of  drafting rollers. Drafting arrangement is the most important part of the machine. It influences mainly evenness and strength.

•

It imparts twists into the yarn thus strengthening it and preventing short fibers from protruding.

•

Packing it in a more easy to handle package.

Input Rove

Output Bobbin PROCESS  The ring frame, which is general in use, is more suitable for the manufacture of cotton yarns in mass production. Its hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and its constant spinning action provide a fast operation. 24 | P a g e

 The ring spinning frame completes the manufacture of yarn: 1. By drawing out the roving 2. By inserting twist 3. By winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one operation.  The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer.  The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame. From bobbin roving is fed between set of drafting rollers running at successively higher rates of  speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired to draw strand down to its final desired size.  The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired amount of twist as strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered by rolls.

 The bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be wound

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on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving. Where it passes through several sets of rollers INFRASTRUCTURE Machine models No Of machines Reiter G 331 ring spinning machines with 1200 21 spindles each Reiter K 441 Comfor Spin machines with 1200 63 spindles each

4.7 Open End Spinning Features: Higher Productivity - it increases the productivity and reduces the cost of manufacturing

•

•

Large Final Package - The final package size has continued to increase.  The final package size is important because it reduces tube change frequency and thus reduces idle time for creeling

•

Less power consumption - Using individual motors and electronic controls for each of the various drives of the machine maximize energy efficiency and minimizes downtime.

Input Carded sliver Output Open end spun yarn PROCESS Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the opening roller. The fibers are then deposited into the rotor where air current and centrifugal force deposits them along the groove of the rotor where they are evenly distributed. The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of  26 | P a g e

the rotor, and the yarn is continuously drawn from the centre of the rotor. The resultant yarn is cleared of any defects and wound onto packages. Open end spinning machines can run up to 1, 40,000 rpm. The production rates of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of ring spinning and as the machines are fed directly by sliver and yarn is wound onto packages ready for use in fabric formation the yarn is a lot cheaper to produce.

INFRASTRUCTURE Number of rotors: 5424

4.8 Winding Package obtained from ring frame is bobbin which holds a small amount of  yarn. It is not easy as well as convenient to transport the cops from one place to other. Secondly, these packages can’t find any use in weaving where a long and continuous supply of yarn is required. Hence, six bobbins are combined to make a cone. This is done by Autoconer.

Purpose • To remove yarn faults • To make bigger package (60 gram bobbins to 2 kg cones) by splicing • Lubrication of yarn

Input Bobbin

Output Cone PROCESS

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During winding, various faults such as neps, thick and thin section are removed.  The machine is controlled by computer. Six bobbins are arranged in a stand that can be rotated. The yarn from a single bobbin is taken by the machine. It is passed through a waxing rod that provides wax. Then, it is passed through electric yarn clearer and splicing unit. This unit contains sensing device(optical and capacitance based) that detects the presence of any fault like thick or thin places, contamination, hairiness, nep formation, weak places. Such places are cut or spliced and the two ends of the yarn are tied into a tiny knot. A tensioning device maintains the tension in the yarn and thus helps in maintaining uniform tension while winding the yarn. INFRASTRUCTURE Machine models Murata 21C winders

No Of machines 84

4.9 Conditioning  The normal moisture content of cotton is around 6-6.5%. After converting to yarn, cotton has only 4% of moisture. A conditioning machine imparts required amount of moisture and strength to the yarns. It uses steam, high temperature and pressure. Steam penetrates into the material and increases the strength of the yarn. If conditioning of yarn is not done, problems like snarling and end twists can occur.

Purpose

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•

Increase weight and strength of the cone.

•

Increase absorption capacity of dyeing agents.

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4.10 Packing Mainly there are two types of packing methods: 1. Pallette Packing – Cones or cheeses wrapped in plastic are placed on

top of one another and the entire package is wrapped in plastic. The maximum number of layers possible is 12. 2. Carton Packing – Cones or cheeses are wrapped in plastic and packed

into baseboard boxes. Depending upon the cone or cheese weight, the size or capacity of the carton varies.

 There is another type of packing method which is based on customer orders, which is called carton pallet packing. In this method of packing, cartons already filled with cheeses or cones are placed on top of each other in layers and then the entire package is wrapped in plastic.

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5.0 Polymerization

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5.1 Continuous Polymerization Input: •

PTA ( Pure Terapthelic Acid )

•

MEG ( Mono Ethylene Glycol )

•

 TiO2 ( Titanium Dioxide )

•

DEG (Di ethylene Glycol )

•

Sb2O3 ( Antimony Trioxide )

Polymerization involves reaction of PTA (Pure Terephthelic Acid) and MEG (Mono Ethylene Glycol) to form Polyethylene Terephthalate (PETE).

Output: Polyethylene Terepthalete (PETE) PROCESS  This process involves two steps reaction. •

Esterification:  This is the first step on where PTA and MEG

were

continuously mix in a specific ratio and fed in to the I st reactor called Esterifies. Reaction takes place vigorously in presence of heat. The intermediate product formed is called as monomer. The by-product formed during reaction is water, which condensed and sent to organic stripping column where organic impurities are stripped and burnt in boiler. The water is sent to Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). •

Poly-condensation: Monomer is subsequently poly-condensed into other two reactors called poly-condensation reaction which is second step of the reaction. Before feeding monomer to polymerization section different additives added such as TiO2, Sb2O3, and DEG. In polymerization reaction monomer undergoes poly condensation under high temperature and low pressure to form polymer. 32 | P a g e

 This polymer is continuously fed to POY spinning plant, FDY spinning plant and Chipper.

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5.2.1 Partially Oriented Yarn In melt spinning, the fiber-forming substance i.e. polymer chips is melted for extrusion through the spinneret and then directly solidified by cooling. The polymer is melted at high temperature & pressure and pumped through a spinneret (die) with numerous holes (one to thousands) as per denier requirement. The molten fibers are cooled by the help of quenching, solidified, and collected on a take-up winder. Stretching of the fibers in both the molten and solid states provides for orientation of the polymer chains along the fiber axis.  This process of stretching the fiber is called drawing. Drawing is typically accomplished by passing the filament around a series of drum or rolls. Each drum is increased in speed to stretch the filament. INFRASTRUCTURE •

POY 1 = 150 Metric Tons per Day (MTPD) & 10 lines

•

POY 2 = 300 MTPD & 12 lines

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5.3 Fully Drawn Yarn Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) is produced by a process similar to POY manufacturing except that the yarn is produced at higher spinning speeds coupled with intermediate drawing integrated in the process itself. This allows stabilization through orientation and crystallization.

PROCESS

 Yarns are produced by a continuous polymerization process. All critical yarn properties such as tenacity, elongation, Uster variation and boiling water shrinkage are closely monitored and controlled. Controlled interlace enables the yarns to be twisted or sized in subsequent operations. FDY is mainly used as weft or weaves in making fabrics. FDY can be knitted or woven with any other filament yarn to get fabric of various different varieties. It is mainly used in Home Furnishing Fabrics, Fashion Fabrics, Denim, Terry  Towel and others INFRASTUCTURE FDY = 200 MTPD & 12 lines

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5.2.2 Texturisation  The molecular structure of Partially Oriented Yarn (POY) is not oriented and has very high elongation. It cannot be used directly for twisting, weaving or knitting. To stabilize the POY and make it usable for the subsequent end-use, texturising is done. Texturising is a thermo mechanical process to make POY more suitable for manufacturing of fabric by permanent re-orientation of its molecular structure and providing better and superior texture to the yarn. PROCESS •

 The POY threads are first passed through a yarn feed device where it is stretched to the required denier.

•

It then goes through the first heater for initial set-up.

•

It is then passed through a cooling panel and a friction disc unit where it is twisted and untwisted about 25-30 times.

•

It then passes through another set of rollers stabilizing heater and then through a third set of feed rollers and then finally through oil rollers.

•

Ultimately the yarn is wound on the paper tube running on the take up roller.

•

 The yarn now becomes suitable for twisting, weaving (only for weft) and knitting.

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For making the yarn suitable to use as warp yarn (in weaving), roto yarn is produced. For producing roto yarn, interlacing jets are fitted next to second set of feed rollers in the yarn path. Compressed air with about 2.5 to 3.0 kg pressure is blown while passing through the jets, where in the filaments are intertwined by a series of  prescribed short periodic compact nodes (nips) without causing any radial disarrangement of the filaments. The yarn becomes suitable for using as warp yarn for weaving application. It also eliminates downstream operations like twisting or sizing thereby reducing cost of warp yarn for weaving application.

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 The finished product so obtained is then weighed on electronic digitalweighing machines to ascertain the quantity manufactured.  The quality aspect is also taken care by drawing a random sample of  texturised yarn from the lot manufactured and the same is tested on laboratory equipment for count and quality assurance. Thereafter, the cones are packed in cartons and sold either to various weavers domestically or exported for manufacturing of fabric.

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6.0 Weaving

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6.1 Warping  The process of arranging a convenient number of warp yarns that can be collected in a sheet form and wound on to a warper’s beam.  There are two types of warping methods followed: •

Direct warping (beam warping)

•

Sectional warping (pattern warping):

Direct Warping (beam warping): It is used for long runs of grey yarns, single colour yarns and simple patterns of coloured yarns. It can be used to make warp sheets. The total amount of coloured yarns involved is less than 15% of the total. •

Direct warping machines are not computerized.

•

No. of direct warping machines = 3 ( JUPITER)

•

Suction devices are provided in between warping machines which suck all the unwanted cotton fibres flying.

Sectional Warping (pattern warping): It is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics where the amount of coloured yarn is more than 15% of  the total. Sectional warping is a quick way to warp a loom with a sectional warp beam and is best suited for very long warps (15 yards or more), any size or style of yarn and 2 inch repeats (most sections on a sectional warp beam are 2" wide). It is not very well suited for mixed warps with many or random yarn changes. It also requires more space and equipment than other warping methods - spool rack with bobbins, bobbin winder, and sley hook and a tension box or warping paddle/guide.

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PROCESS - Sectional Warping: •

Warp is winded onto spools (bobbins) -

One spool per each warp end per

2" of warp. Only one section of sectional warp beam is winded at a time.If  the weaving is set at 12 e.p.i, and the sectional warp beam sections are 2", 24 bobbins of warp are needed in the spool rack (2" x 12 e.p.i. = 24 warp ends, hence 24 bobbins per 2" section). •

 The spool rack is positioned behind the loom.

•

 The warp is centred and number of warp sections is counted. For a 28" wide fabric, the centre 14 sections are used (28" divided by 2" sections = 14 sections).

•

A cord is tied to the warp beam in each of the sections used.

•

A warp end is threaded from each bobbin through the tension box or warping paddle. The tension box or guide should be attached to the back beam to help in winding the warp ends onto each section with even tension. The bundle of warp ends is knotted as close to the end as possible.

•

Beginning at either of the outside sections of the specified sections, the cord is tied from the warp beam to the knotted warp ends using a clove hitch knot. Starting at one side and filling sections in order straight across the beam will produce fabric with warps tight on one end and loose on the other. Similarly, starting at the centre and working towards the edges will produce fabric with rippled edges.

•

 The beam is turned, watching carefully to see that the section fills evenly. If  the warp piles up unevenly, position of the tension box is adjusted. Each revolution of the beam is counted as first section is filled. All the other sections should be filled with the same number of turns to avoid tension problems in the warp.

i. When the section is full, a piece of masking tape is placed across the warp ends to keep them in order. The tape takes the place of a cross. The warp is then cut one inch beyond the tape. The tape is pinned into the filled section to secure it. 41 | P a g e

ii. ii.

The The ten tensio sion n box box or or padd paddle le is is mov moved ed to to the the oth other er outsi outside de sect sectio ion n and and fill filled ed.. iii. iii. When When all the section sections s are full, full, pins are remove removed d from each sectio section n and warp warp is pulled over the back beam toward the shafts. iv.

Thread the loom is threaded as for warping back to front (heddles are threaded; the reed is slayed and tied onto the front apron rod).

INFRASTRUCTURE •

 The section sectional al warping warping machine machines s are fully fully compu computeriz terized. ed.

•

Creel capacity = 672

•

Hence, no. of sections = 672/ (no. of ends per section)

•

No. of sectio sectional nal warpin warping g machi machine nes s = 9 (PRAS (PRASHAN HANT T GAMA GAMATEX TEX,, SUCKER SUCKER MULLER AND JUPITER)

FEATURES: •

Separate warping & beaming structure

•

Hydraulic Disc Brakes

•

Constant Beaming Tension

•

Digital / Graphic On Line Display for desired process data

•

Solid steel drum - Dynamically balanced.

•

Frequency variable A/C drives

•

Hydraulic doffing & donning device

•

Auto section advancing

•

Constant warping and beaming speed

•

Lost end memory & auto stop during beaming

•

On Site Programming Facility

•

Individually Controlled Tensioner Type model

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6.2 Sizing  The main main purpose purpose of of sizing sizing is is to impro improve ve streng strength th and and abrasio abrasion n resistan resistance ce of of the warp yarns by causing the fibres to adhere together to make smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction where they rub together various parts in the weaving process.

Sizing Ingredients: Adhesives: Modified starch (texoplast), fabric glue, thin volume starch, Potato starch,

starch from corn, wheat, rice, etc., Carboxyl methyl cellulose (CMC), Poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA), Polyester resin (acts as binder). Lubricants: Mineral waxes, oils, vegetable waxes and oils, animal fats Additives: Salicylic Salicylic acid, zinc chloride, chloride, phenol, phenol, emulsifier emulsifier,, softeners, softeners, Polyethylen Polyethylene e

glycol CHEMIC

16Te

AL

40CO

40

50

60

70

20

16OE

L

Samp le

GREY  Texopla 40

50

50

70

60

50

20

70

sizing ___

st PVA Falixlos

6 25

6 25

10 25

10 ___

10 ___

15 ___

___ 60

10 20

8 ___

e Seycofi

4

6

6

12

15

15

4

6

3

lm M.

5

5

5

5

5

5

5

4

3

Tallow Pep

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

___

1000 LV 40 Water

1 15’’

___ ___ ___ 14.5’’ 14.5’’ 14’’

___ 14’’

___ 14’’

___ 14’’

___   17’’

___ 100

Table 2: Chemical Composition Composition of sizing for different types of yarns.

1’’= 37.75 litres INFRASTRUCTURE:

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•

• •

SUCKER MULLER –HACOBA with PLC device( programmable logic control): No. of  machines = 4  JUPITER ( No. of machines = 3)  AMBICA  AMBICA ( No. of machines = 2)

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TECHNICAL DETAILS: Feeding device: Obtain a good point of grip for the warp. This comprises of the following parts: •

Pressure roller

•

Carrier roller

•

Floating roller

•

Control bridge

•

Rotary switch

•

Guide roller

•

Contactless switch

Squeezing rollers Automatic squeezing roller control ( PLC) MEASURING AND CONTROL DEVICES FOR DEGREE OF SIZING If degree of sizing is too high or low, risk of thread breaks is increased. Degree of sizing(%) = [Sa(%) * K(%)] / (100%)

; where Sa = Sizing

liquor take up. It is the ratio of the liquor taken up to the weight of untreated yarn. K = Concentration. It is measured by a refractometer.

Factors Affecting Degree of Sizing: •

Concentration

•

Viscosity of sizing liquor

•

 Temperature of sizing liquor 45 | P a g e

•

Speed

•

Squeezing pressure

6.3 Denting and Drawing – In All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The heald is the part of the loom that is used to move the warp threads up and down. The threads pass through eyelets on the heald. For a simple weave pattern alternate eyelets are moved up to raise the corresponding warp threads, and the threads between are moved down. When the shuttle travels back their positions are reversed. INFRASTRUCTURE: 1) STAUBLI DELTA 200:  The DELTA 200 is a high-performance drawing-in installation. It is used wherever high production performance, a wide field of  applications, and maximum flexibility are required. The DELTA 200 draws-in warp yarns directly from the warp beam with 1 or 2 sheets, and optionally up to 4 sheets. 2) STAUBLI DELTA 110: These drawing-in installations are designed for weaving mills with medium drawing-in requirements. The DELTA 110 also handles drop wires and is a universal installation. Furthermore, a module is available that is specially designed for drawing-in course yarns. Drawing-in takes place directly from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or optionally with 2 warp sheets. DELTA

110

200

Drawing-in speed (ends/min) Number of warps in 8h (ca. ) Warp widths (m)

100/140* 2-5 2.3/ 4.0/

200 4-8 2.2/ 2.8/

Number of warp sheets Reed density( teeth/ dm) Max. number of frames (J/C-

6.0 1 (2*) 500 20

4.0 2 (4*) 500 28

healds) Max. number of frames (O-

16

20 46 | P a g e

healds) Max. rows of dropwires Number of dropwire paths Drawing-in element  Yarn count range (tex)

____ ____ Hook 3-250

8 2 Rapier 3-330

Sequence of Functions: 

Band gripper starts the drawing-in sequence before all modules are ready for drawing-in.



If reed module is not ready, it reports after reed test.



Gripper enters the dent (can be stopped if reed module is not ready, otherwise continues its forward motion.



Heald module reports at heald test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before passing through heald eye. If it is in ready state, gripper moves on.



Drop wire module reports at drop wire test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before penetrating eye of the drop wire. If ready, gripper moves on.



 Yarn supply module reports at yarn test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before entering yarn take over. If ready, the gripper continues its motion.



After yarn take over, band gripper which grips the yarn withdraws.



Band gripper withdraws past the drop wire and heald positions.



Drop wire and heald distribution systems move on.



Reed transport ensures the reed position.

 

 Yarn ejectors are actuated in position ‘e’ and ‘f’ (in the diagram). One drawn-in cycle is over.

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6.4 Weaving It is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The other methods are knitting, lace making and felting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling. The methods in which these threads are inter- woven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven". A fabric band which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without looms.  The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill. Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic designs.

PROCESS AND TERMINOLOGY: In general, weaving involves using a loom to interlace of two sets of threads at right angles to each other: the warp and the weft (older woof). One warp thread is called and an end and one weft thread is a pick, the warp threads are held taut and in parallel order, typically in a loom of which there are many different types. Weaving can be summarised as a repetition of these three actions:   

Primary Motions Secondary Motions  Tertiary Motions

Primary Motions: Shedding: Where the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald frames (heddles) to form a clear space where the pick can pass Picking: Where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by an air-jet, a rapier or a shuttle

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Beating-up or battening: Where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed.

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Secondary Motions: Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a regulated speed to make the filling even and of the required design Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated manner so that the density of filling is maintained

 Tertiary Motions: The stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a Thread break. The two main stop motions are the  

Warp stop motion Weft stop motion Others are:

   

 Temple Leno Stop Catch Cord Stop Waste Cutter

 The principal parts of a loom are:     

 The  The  The  The  The

frame warp-beam or weavers beam cloth-roll heddles and their mounting, reed.

 The warp-beam is a wooden or metal cylinder back of the loom on which the warp is wound. The threads of the warp extend in parallel order from the warpbeam to the front of the loom, and are attached to the cloth-roll. Each thread or group of threads of the warp passes through an opening (eye) of a heddle.  The warp threads are separated by the heddles into two or more groups, each controlled and automatically drawn up and down by the motion of the heddles. In the case of small patterns the movement of the heddles is controlled by “cams” which move up the heddles by means of a frame called a harness; in larger patterns the heddles are controlled by a dobby mechanism, where the healds are raised according to pegs inserted into a revolving drum. Where a complex design is required, the healds are raised by harness cords attached to 50 | P a g e

a Jacquard machine. Every time the harness (the heddles) moves up or down, an opening (shed) is made between the threads of warp, through which the pick is inserted.  The rapier-type weaving machines do not have shuttles, they propel the weft by means of small grippers or rapiers that pick up the filling thread and carry it halfway across the loom where another rapier picks it up and pulls it the rest of the way. Some carry the filling yarns across the loom at rates in excess of  2,000 meters per minute. Manufacturers such as Picanol have reduced the mechanical adjustments to a minimum, and control all the functions through a computer with a graphical user interface. Other types use compressed air to insert the pick, and others small projectiles. They are all fast, versatile and quiet.  The handloom weaver sizes his warp in starch mixture for smoother running. He warps his loom (loomed or dressed) by passing the warp threads through heddles on two or more harnesses. The power weaver’s loom is warped by separate workers. In operation the warp threads are moved up or down by the harnesses creating a space called the shed through which the pick will pass.  The harnesses can be controlled by cams, dobbies or a Jacquard head.  The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads in various sequences gives rise to many possible weave structures:  

Plain weave: plain, and hopsacks, poplin, taffeta, poult and grosgrain.  Twill weave: these are described by weft float followed by warp float, arranged to give diagonal pattern. 2/1 twill, 3/3 twill, 1/2 twill. These are softer fabrics than plain weaves



Satin weave: satins and sateens



Complex computer-generated interlacing.



Pile fabrics: such as velvets and velveteen

Both warp and weft can be visible in the final product. By spacing the warp more closely, it can completely cover the weft that binds it, giving a warp faced textile such as repp weave.

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Conversely, if the warp is spread out, the weft can slide down and completely cover the warp, giving a weft faced textile, such as a tapestry or a Kilim rug.

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Weaving- Fabric Manufacturing Process •

Winding

•

Warping or beaming

•

Sizing

•

Drawing in, Looming

•

Pirning (Processing the weft)

•

Weaving

Measurements: Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth can be expressed as the number of picks and ends per quarter inch square, or per inch square. An end is always written first. For example: Heavy domestics are made from coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks.

Weaving Department Of Alok Industries Ltd.:  There are total 14 weaving units in Alok Industries. Unit Number

Product

1 2

Wider Width fabric

3

Fine Count for Print, Chambray

4

Yarn Died (Shirting & Suiting Fabric)

5

Wider Width (Defense)

6

Wider Width Fabric &

7

Wider Width Fabric

8

Yarn Died (Shirting & Suiting Fabric)

9A

Wider Width Fabric

9B

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9C

Batching(Defense Purpose)

9D 9E

Unit Number

1 2 3

4

5 6

7

8 9A 9B 9C 9D 9E 9F

 Yarn Died Fabric

Machine Type

Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Cam,340 cms(2 pick insertion) Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Cam,340 cms(2 pick insertion) Toyota air Jet Looms Pinacol Rapier Loom(Jacquard) Sulzer Rapier Loom(Jacquard) Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Dobby Sulzer Rapier Loom with Dobby,220 cms Sulzer Rapier Loom with Dobby,190 cms Pinacol Rapier Looms with Dobby Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Cam Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Dobby Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Cam Pinacol Rapier Looms with Dobby  Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam  Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Cam Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Dobby  Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam(2 pick insertion)  Toyota air Jet with Cam(4 pick insertion) Vamatex Rapier Loom with Dobby  Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam All machines of unit &  Tsudakoma Air Jet with Cam Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam, Batching Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam  Toyota air Jet Looms with Dobby Pinacol Rapier Looms with Dobby Pinacol Air Jet Looms with Cam Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam,340 cms(4 pick insertion)  Toyota air Jet Looms with Cam,340 cms(6 pick insertion)

Number Of   Machines

80 80 52 12 16 32 02 28 40 96 48 152 76 50 26 100 52 26 12 76 12 164 16 84 71 40 110 110 150 50

Table 3: Different weaving units and Type of Product Manufacture

54 | P a g e

Beam Length: Type of Fabric

Average Length(mts)

 Yarn Dyed Fabric

1800

Grey Fabric

2500

Wider Width Fabric

3000

Speed & Production: Sl. Number 1

Speed(RPM)

 Yarn Dyed Fabric

Production in Mts/Loom/Day 200

2

Grey Fabric

300

600

3

Wider Width Fabric

170

500

Unit

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9A 9B 9C 9D 9E 9F

Type of Fabric

Production/ Day (mts)

2200025000 34000 152065 43000

-

Efficiency (%)

80 80 75 80-85 80 75-80 80 85 80 80 75 85-90 80 -

RH (%) Count of   On At Thread Loo Roo m m 80 65 80 65 80 65 80 65 120/2140/2 80 65 30-100 80 65 80 65 80 65 80 65 30-100 80 65 80 65 80 65 80 65 -

550

Width of  Fabric (inches)

72 wider 116-118 93

-

Table 4: Production, Efficiency and RH of different divisions

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7.0 Preparatory for Dyeing and Printing

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Greige Fabric Processing Geige fabric for further processing is sourced mainly from the silvassa plant (95% of the fabric processed).  The product mix available and processed:•

•

•

Fabrics by weight:-Light, medium, heavy Fabrics by blend:- Poly Cotton, Cotton Viscose, Cotton Lycra, Cotton Spandex Fabrics By weave:- Twill, Plain, sateen, satin, dobby, design(Jacquard)

 The fabric is already graded when it is received. 2000 Steel Racks are there for storage for up to 29 lakh Meters of fabric. Average length of fabric on a Aframe batch is 4500 meters but it could vary on the GSM. Fabric Rolls are opened and converted into A-frame batches and sent for further processing of  singeing and desizing.

7.1 Singeing Singeing is the process of removal of protruding fibers. Singeing is done via gas flames which come in contact with fibers and burn them.  The fabric runs perpendicular or tangentially to the gas flames depending upon the fiber properties and thickness of the fabric. INFRASTRUCTURE:  There are 3 machines on which these operations are performed.  The machine used is “Osthoff Senge”, Models: - VP99-H (2 m/c) & 42327 Wupputal, Germany. Speed of Fabric: Light fabrics: - 100 - 120 mts/min Heavy fabrics: - 60 - 70 mts/min

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PROCESS:  The 1st phase is the pre brushing, where a brush is applied in order to raise the protruding fiber.  The process is carried out by applying gas flame on the fabric, for most of the fabric; flame is applied on the either side of the fabric, for some qualities it is applied only on the face side.  The pressure on the fabric is applied in the brushing phase which is generally around 12 mbar.  The flame intensity could be reduced by applying the flame at a tangential angle, there are 4 angular positions. 0 represents no flame is applied on the fabric and 3 represents the fabric is applied at 900. 1 and 2 are positions in between 0 and 3, where 0, 1, 2 and 3 positions represents 12o’clock, 1 o’clock, 2o’clock and 3o’clock of a watch respectively.  The last phase is post brushing, where a brush is applied to remove the burnt fiber from the fabric. LEARNING:  The maximum senge intensity on a fabric could be when parameters are 20 mbar and clock position is 3, for light weight fabric it is decreased up to 8 mbar and clock position 1.  These machines can process up to 30,000 meters /8 hrs. In case of dobby and miletta check fabric the pre-brush pressure is 3(+/- 1).

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7.2 Desizing It is the process of removal of starch from the fabric, mainly carried out by application of enzyme. Starch is mainly used as sizing agent while weaving so high-activation, high-stability and selective enzymes are choosen which can target on starch sizing agent. Enzymes need to be kept active in a certain range of pH (such as pH 5 –pH 9). Mainly Aquazym PS-L Enzyme is used. In some cases Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA) is used as size material and it could be easily desized with the help hot water. Chemicals used in desizing Process are as follow:•

Wetting agent: - increases absorbency in fabric.

•

Enzymes: - required for removal of sizes applied to fabrics.

•

Chelating agents: - restricts the reaction of any metal ion with any added chemicals.

INFRASTRUCTURE:  This process is continuous; all the chambers are arranged consecutively in order of their purpose.

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 The machine has an impregnating chamber for application of desizing chemical on the fabric, a steam box for assisting chemical activation on the fabric, one foretractra chamber for the removal of excess chemical, 3 extracta chambers for washing off the chemicals and a set of rollers to dry the fabric.  The temperature for washing and steam box is 950C.

PROCESS:  The fabric moves from post singeing brush to steaming chamber is to make size material swell, inside the foretractra, the fabric is fed into a mixture of  enzyme and chelating agent, the extra chemical is removed here only by roller pressure, the next process of removal of size happens inside extracta, here there are 3 chambers, inside these chambers the fabric is washed with hot water. The next process is passing the fabric though the heated chambers in order to dry the fabric, after this the fabric is batched. Aquazym PS-L

2-5 ml/kg

Felosan APF

3-4 ml/kg

Chelating Expression)

agent

(Mangle 100%

Soakage temperature

900C

Stacking Time

6-18 hrs 60 | P a g e

LEARNING:  The total time for which the fabric remains inside the desizing machine is 8-15 minutes. After desizing, the fabric loses about 7-8% of the weight. Residual size material is measured in a unit called TEGWA, if level of TEGWA is higher, sizing is done properly and if it is lower, sizing has not been done properly.

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7.3 Pre Treatment Range (PTR) Fabric from desizing process arrives to the PTR and is fed into the machine. It is a composite machine range where the fabric is washed, bleached and dried before it is dyed.  The 2 processes taking place inside the PTR are scouring and bleaching, the purpose of scouring is to remove the wax, dirt and other foreign material from the fabric while the purpose of bleaching is to whiten the fabric. INFRASTRUCTURE:  The machine is called BENNINGER PTR.  There are sections in this machine as follow: •

INJECTA: Fabric is washed with water and steam.

•

EXTRACTA: Remove the material present inside the fabric.

•

IMPECTA: Padding of fabric with wetting agent, reserve and stabilizer.

•

STEAMER: Steaming of fabric, action of chemical on fabric.

•

EXTRACTA: Removal of wax and dirt from the fabric.

PROCESS:  The fabric passes from the INJECTA and EXTRACTA chambers first, where washing is done and impurities are removed, next, the fabric moves from IMPECTA chamber (Chemical Addition Tank) where it is padded with H2O2 and other chemicals, from there it passes through steamer where at a high temperature the steam is applied to the fabric and chemicals act upon the wax and impurities.

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 The chemical composition in IMPECTA is like this: Chemicals

Quantity (ml/kg)

Peroxide (H2O2)

20

Reserve

4

Wetting agent

4.5

Stabilizer

4

NaOH

15

Table 5: Chemical Composition in IMPECTA

 The Steaming temperature is around 950C. Here in the steamer H2O2 acts as bleaching agent while NaOH is used for scouring, NaOH also provides a basic medium for Bleaching. After this the fabric is dried and batched. LEARNING:  The entire process takes 8-20 minutes to complete. The speed of the fabric is 76 m/min. scouring and bleaching are simultaneous processes. The fabric coming out of PTR is somewhat basic because of presence of small amount of  NaOH. The process happening inside PTR is emulsification and Saponification and the byproducts are emulsions and wax, grease and dirt. Neutralization is carried out many a times after bleaching if the buyer demands for it, otherwise if it is to processed further or pass through the mercerization process, it is not neutralized, Acetic acid is used for neutralization process.

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7.4 Mercerization Mercerization is a preparatory process mainly used for cellulosic fibres when lustre is important or light shades are to be dyed. The main purpose of  mercerization is to increase the absorbency, dimensional stability and luster. INFRASTUCTURE: Benninger Mercerizer equipped with the Ben- dimensa technology is used for the mercerization process. There are three mercerizers out of which 2 machines are based on the chain principle, while the third machine is based upon chainless principle exclusively used for heavy/bottom weight fabrics. PROCESS:  The fabric is first passed through “Rinsing Drop” where it is padded with weak lye (40-60 GPL), then the next process is passing it through “Impregnators” where it is padded with NaOH (28-30 Be), the fabric is dipped in the solution for 35-40 sec before washing, 50-60% of the caustic is squeezed out of it, next, it is spread with water to increase the strength.  The next is the stabilizer zone that provides tension to the fabric; it is passed through 4-5 washer and stabilizer at 950C to remove the caustic matter, now it is passed through a trough containing grain acid(combination of mineral acid), used to remove the small amount of caustic material left (5-10%).  The Average processing speed is 60-70 mts/min Chemicals used in the process for mercerization are: •

NaOH (28-30 Be)

•

Organic acid

•

Caustic soda

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Features: •

•

•

•

Mercerization is a hot process. Cold mercerization faces the problem of non-uniformity due to highly viscous solution. Concentration of caustic- 28-30Be, which is around 250 g/l.  Treatment temperature is 60 0C.

•

Mangle pressure-3.5bar.

•

Wet pickup-75%.

•

10% shrinkage during mercerization.

•

300m fabrics inside the machine at a time.

•

In chain mercerization, fabric can be elongated width ways after mercerization.

LEARNING:  The fabric shrinks in this process because of the rounding of fibers from kidney shape to circular form and because the caustic decreases the hollow space between the yarns, lusture increases as a result of this process. A denser fabric would have a lower shrinkage than a non denser fabric. WIDTH

Cms.

ENTRY

150

BEFORE

AFTER

CHAIN

CHAIN

149

152

EXIT

146

Table 6: Reduction in Width due to Mercerization

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8.0 Fabric and Yarn Dyeing

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Dyeing •

Cold pad batch (Reactive) – Cotton Fiber.

•

Pad dry pad steam (Reactive, VAT) – Cotton and PC blend.

•

Disperse on thermosol & reactive on CPB – PC Blend.

•

Disperse vat single bath – PC Blend.

•

E control (Reactive) – Cotton Fiber.

8.1 Cold Pad Batch  The cold pad batch machines are used for applications of only reactive dyes. There are three cold pad batch machines from benninger known as kusters dye pad.  The color requirement of a fabric is directly dependent on the following: •

 The length of the fabric to be dyed

•

 The pickup of the fabric in percent

•

 The GLM of the fabric.(Gram per linear meter)

Dyeing process takes around 16 hrs for dyeing at room temperature. It can produce a range of light, medium and dark colours. CPB has a vertical arrangement of rollers for dipping the fabric in dye solution.  The number of rollers may vary from 2 to 4. This operates in a range of 50-60 mts/min. The dye to chemical ratio may vary but standard ratio used is of 4:1  The various chemicals used in the dyeing trough are:•

Fixer chemicals - Sodium silicate used for fixing

•

Reactive dyes

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•

Soda and caustic

After impregnation of the dyestuff the finishing rollers and squeezing unit squeeze out the extra dye solution. These batches then require fixation dwell time for which the batches are kept under rotation (to avoid any leaching out of any dyestuff) in the RFD storage generally for 16 hrs. Each machine has 3 dye and 2 chemical tanks with each having a capacity of  800 lts. Approx production is 20,000-22,000mts/8 hrs.

8.2 Continuous Dyeing Range:  The Monforts Thermosol is a continuous dyeing range in which the pretreated fabrics acts as input and a completely dyed fabric is received at the output which is then sent for finishing. This is mainly used for the following types of dyes: •

Disperse

•

Modified Vat Dye

•

Reactive

 There are 2 monforts thermosol which have similar construction and only differ in the number of IR dryer Chamber which one machine has a single unit while the other has two, requirement of dryers depends upon the application required.  The machines have a Thermex hot fuel chamber which has 28 rollers in 3 chambers.  The fabric is fed through the Feeding section which then passes into the Wetting unit where it is dipped in the alkalis required for dye fixation and dye solution are present as required. The fabric then passes on to air passage rollers that assist the penetration of dyes after which fabric pass into the IR dryer units where through heat of the IR burners partial or pre-drying is performed where up to 40% of the moisture is removed.  Temperature is maintained at 450C, the fabric then passes into the Thermex hot-flue where the measuring and control unit (chamber atmosphere) control the temperature and the Steam injection unit provides steam for heating the 68 | P a g e

chamber. After the curing process the fabric is completely dyed and received at the Outlet section. The speed of the machine varies from 45-50 mts /min and generally runs at 25-30 mts /min at an average.

Benninger Thermosol:  The Benninger thermosol is mainly used for •

Vat dye

•

Reactive dye

•

Disperse dye

 The machine is mainly based on the working process principle of pad dry pad steam method in which the dye impregnation and drying is done on the thermosol while the pad steam/curing is performed on the Benninger pad steam machine.  The fabric is fed into the machine by various rollers a scray. The fabric subsequently enters the dyestuff trough where it comes in contact with the dye solution, application method used is of single dip single nip. Then it passes through an intermediate air passage which assists in the dye penetration and then passing into the IR dryer unit for the purpose of pre drying which composes of 3 units and 3 burners heated at gradually increasing temperatures up to 4500C.  The pre drying process helps in removal of up to 40 % of the moisture. After pre-drying the fabric enters the thermfix hot fuel chamber in which the fabric is passed and dried at high temperature and high pressure, thus resulting in a completely dried fabric as the output.  To constantly provide dyestuff solutions there are 5 storage tanks of which 4 are dye tanks and 1 is of chemicals of 4 with capacities ranging from 500-1500 liters.  The dye: chemical ratio thus is maintained at 4:1 at an average.

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8.3 Benninger Pad Steam Machine  The pad steam machine lies in line with the thermosol machine for completion of the PDPS (Pad dry Pad steam) process. The Benninger pad steam machine is basically used for the following purposes:•

Colour development

•

Reduction clearing in case of blended fabric double bath dyeing.

 There are 3 Benninger pad steam machine is available for the above said objectives. Dyes which are processed in the pad steam machine are:•

Reactive dyes

•

Vat dyes

Chemicals used for reactive pad steam process are:•

Salt

•

Soda ash

•

Caustic

Chemical for vat dye pad steam process is: - caustic hydro.  The fabric is fed through feed rollers into the chemical trough where alkali for fixation chemicals for reduction clearing are applied on the fabric through single nip single dip method after which it passes into the booster chamber where the special squeeze nip of the booster guarantees a uniform pickup, independent from production speed and fabric weight. The fabric then moves into the recta chamber with rollers where steam treatment is given to the fabric at high temperature and high pressure. 70 | P a g e

After which the fabric passes on to the extracta chambers. There are 9 extracta chambers that are used for the purpose of soaping, washing, neutralization and reduction clearing. In first two extracta chambers washing takes place at room temperature. In the following two chambers H2O2 for oxidation is added at 600C.In the next 3 chambers soaping and hot wash is done. In the concluding 2 washing chambers hot wash with neutralization is at 90-950c degrees. The delivery customer cylinders nip out any moisture in the fabric with steam heated cylinders and fabric is received in dried condition as output. The processing speed at an average is 50 mts/min.

8.4 Dyed Fabric Washing  The machine has in total 9 chambers in which2 initial extracta chambers are for rinsing purposes and I chamber for application of the required chemicals during processing next5 chambers are the washing setup which is used for washing after the dyeing . The soaping is done in two ways: 

Cold Pad Batch Wash



Cold Wash

Cold Pad Batch Wash: Dekol fbsn and acetic acid mixture is used for dyed fabrics from cold pad batch thefabric is first set for relaxation and passed through the heated chambers given as under  The fabric is treated with water at 30OC, then treated with water at 400C, then a soap solution of DECOL FBSN and acetic acid is applied at 600C, Normal washing with water at 900C takes place in the next 5 chambers, Green acid of  neutralizes the fabric at 80ocin the last neutralizing chamber.

Cold Wash: Cold wash is given to fabrics coming direct from the continuous dyeing range.  The fabric is passed through the heated chambers given as under. The fabric is treated with water at 300C.It is then treated with water at 40 OC. A soap solution of Arieanal +acetic acid is applied at 500C.Normal washing with water at 500C takes place following which green acid of 160 gpl neutralizes the fabric at 500C. The maximum speed of the machine goes up to 71 | P a g e

40 m/min. The second washer has drums in its extracta chambers which are also known as Trikoflex; this makes it preferable for medium weight and light weight fabric.

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8.5 Yarn Dyeing MATERIAL FLOW

Package Winding

Pretreatment

Dyeing

After Treatment

Moisture removal (Hydro Extraction)

Drying (RF dryer)

Winding

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Soft winding •

96 spindles on each side

•

Speed varies with count:-

•

•

•

I.

40 count -700 rpm

II.

60 count- 850 rpm

Package density- 340 g/l  Tension in weft yarn package is kept higher than warp yarn package Automatic splicing of broken ends

 Yarn dyeing:

Weight of machines No. of machines (kg) 1

4

25

4

54

5

243

3

325

2

535

1

1070

2

Table 7: Capacity of machine in terms of weight of yarn.

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PRETREATMENT At 100 0C for 45 min CHEMICALS •

Bio scour super plus - Scouring agent

•

Lanapex - Sequestering agent

•

Caustic soda

•

H2O2

•

Biocatalase - Peroxide killer

•

Aeronil - Leveling agent

DYEING •

60- 80 0C for 40-60 min

•

Depsodye MSDA ----- leveling agent

•

Soda ash

•

Caustic soda

AFTER TREATMENT •

Soaping at 95 0C for 15 min

•

Ecopret AS ----- soaping agent

•

Perifil 210 ----- cationic agent

•

Ecofix NF ------ fixing agent

•

In to out cycle time ---- 3 min

•

Out to in cycle time ---- 4 min

•

M.L.R. :- 1:8

•

Fully flooded machine (HTHP)

Packages are hydro- extracted after dyeing to remove the excess liquor.  This is done by centrifugal force. 75 | P a g e

Drying is then done in RF drying ranges. Uneven dyeing may occur due to following reason:•

Improper temperature control.

•

Non-uniform liquor flow.

•

Uneven winding tension.

•

Blocking of perforations.

•

Improper dosing.

Types of Dyeing I.

REACTIVE DYEING DEPTH <1 % 1-3 % 3-4 % 4-5 % >5 % Black

II.

SODA (50 %) 10 5 5 5 5 5

CAUSTIC (ml/l) 1 1 1 1 1 2

HE dyes DEPTH <1 % 1-3 % 3-4 % 4-5 % >5 % Black

III.

SALT (g/l) 20 50 70 80 90 100

SALT (g/l) 20 50 70 80 90 100

SODA (g/l) 10 15 20 20 20 25

VAT DYEING DEPTH

CAUSTIC 50% HYDRO (g/l)

SALT (g/l)

(ml/l) 76 | P a g e

<1 % 1-3 % 3-5% >5 %

14 18 22 26

6 8 11 13

8 13 18 22

Laboratory Testing: •

Light Fastness

•

Wash Fastness(gyro wash)

•

Crock meter for rubbing fastness

•

Multi precise yarn dyeing machine with magnetic pumps. There is no into out and out to in flow

•

200 kg capacity

•

Package winding machine of about 100 kg

•

Knitting machine I. II.

•

For sample dying  To check package to package variation

12 tonnes per day production

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9.0 Printing Printing is the textile processing technique for localized application of  dye/pigment is a desired pattern /design.  The styles of printing are carried out are reactive, discharge (white and colour), and pigment. The printing section has its own design studio and colour kitchen for screen, dye/pigment solution development.  The studio is responsible for the designing of the designs for screens which are required to be developed in accordance to the design specification provided by the buyer.  There are 5 workstations which are equipped with Ramsete III version 8.33 for design development. Screen preparation department is the provided by the ready designs and its specification for the preparation of screen.

Screen Engraving: After receiving the design developed for screen, work in the screen preparation starts with the engraving. Nickel made Fine mesh ready screen of  varying circumferences of 640mm, 819mm and 914 mm are available .CST Inkjet printing unit is used for the purpose of engraving. Coating of the screens is done with the combination of three constituents namely, Photo emulsion (readymade liquor), Dichromate and Distilled water which is done as per the design The design development is done through the ink when the screen is exposed to uv-light ,coating hardens to retain itself and then washing in reggiani screen washing machine to wash off the undried ink, thus the inked part becomes the area of penetration for the color pigment in the rotary screen. Thereafter the coating on the screen is cured in the embee curing machine for 2 hrs at 100°C. After which the screens are finally dried in the femate Climatizer.  The screen preparation department also houses Mimaki Textile Inkjet is the machine used for digital printing. Digital printing is done at a very small scale for only special purposes. Any type of fabric can be printed upon using this machine. Approximately 60 million colors can be printed using this machine. Ripmaster is the CAM used for controlling these machines operations

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AUTO COLOR KITCHEN Auto color kitchen is responsible for making the paste for printing by using various chemicals & dyes and regularly supply the machines as required.  The kitchen has 5 silo storages for urea (hygroscopic agent), sodium bicarbonate, Potassium carbonate used for reactive printing paste, Resist salt (oxidizing agent), soda ash. The silos supply to the automatic prepeartion unit (1000 lts) for paste preparation.

Key Ingredients for printing paste are as follow:•

•

Binder: - 18% binder is used for dark shade. 6% binder is used for lighter shade. Luprimol (STG) - It act as softner which reduces hardness of the water and paste soft.

•

Lutexgel(HIT) - It act as thickner to make viscous paste of the dye.

•

Fixing agent(LF) -It act as fixer & rubbing fastness will increase.

•

Rongolite (ST) -It act as reducing agent for white and color discharges.

For 100 % cotton fabric sodium sulphoxylate is used, for blended fabrics Zinc Sulphoxylate is used.  There is a roto mix machine for the colour preparation which is dosed by chemical by various dosing systems which prepare the colour paste in large open tubs which are transported to the machine for dosing the paste to the screens.

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Textile Printing  The Textile printing practised at Alok is the rotary screen methods for which there are3 Reggiani rotary printing machines, 1 Lakshmi rotary printing machine and a sample printing machine from Reggiani. In addition to this there are Two Airoli Loop Agers that are used for the purpose of curing.

Preparation of cloth for printing:  The wet preparatory processes are all carried out on the Benninger PTR where as for knits it’s done in the Sclavos soft flow machines. Apart from wet preparations the cloth is brushed & sheared on lafer shearing machine by being passed over rapidly revolving knives arranged spirally round an axle, which rapidly and effectually cuts off all filaments and knots, leaving the cloth perfectly smooth and clean and in a condition fit to receive impressions of the most delicate engraving. Some figured fabrics, especially those woven in checks, stripes and crossovers, require very careful stretching and straightening on a stenter frame, before they can be printed with certain formal styles of pattern which are intended in one way or another to correspond with the cloth pattern. Finally, the cloth is wound around a hollow woodenor iron centers into rolls of  convenient size for mounting on the printing machines.

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INFRASTRUCTURE A rotary printing machine prints designs with engraved designs on a curved cylinder. Substrate here is a continuous fabric roll which is to be printed and further modified if required (e.g. die cut, overprint varnished, embossed).  The initial development of the samples is done using CAD in the studio using which the screens are developed after which the Reggiani sample printing machine is used for preparation of samples. The normal width of this machine is 70”. It can be extended up to 120’’.

Laxmi Rotary Printing Machine Up to 12 colors design can be printed in this machine. The screens are mounted on the screen stations provided, for each color in the design a screen is used with the color paste being provided into the screen through a pipe and a squeeze arrangement within the screens apply pressure to enable printing paste penetration.

 The fabric is fed through rollers to the printing table and is stabalized in width by a guiding system .As the fabric passes under the screen rollers the colors are applied as per design. The capacity of this machine is 20 to 100 meters/seconds depending upon factors like design and the number of colors in that design and the types of the fabric (coarser takes less time as compared to finer fabric).  The machine is pre-equipped with the under-bed washing and drying unit which cleans and dry up the belt after each cycle. After printing rollers, the drying unit dries printed fabric in a 5chamber arrangement dedicated for drying. After drying, the fabric is sent to the polymerizer for fixation, i.e. the fixing of dyes /pigments.

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Reggiani Screen Printing Machine  There are 3 Reggiani rotary printing machines out of which 2 machines can print upto 12 colors and the third machine can printupto 14 colors. The Reggiani screen printing range is has similar operation run as that of the Lakshmi rotary printing machine.  The only difference in both the machines is the application of glue in the Reggiani machine by a glue roller that ensures that the fabric sticks to the running conveyor belt as it passes under the various screen rollers for coloration. After printing it enters the heating chamber where there are 5 chambers that dry the printed fabric with high temperature and pressure. Two machines out of three have the dryer in on-line position where as the third machine has an dryer in over head position. The dried fabric received is then received in a batch form or plaited (preferable) and then sent for curing. Technical details of Reggiani Rotary printing machine Number of colors

12 & 14(max 24 colors)

Printing speed

30 to 45 m/min max(90 m/min)

Printing width

72” to 80”

Multi repeat printing heads (screen size) Squeegee system

640 to 1200 mm UNIFLUX continuous magnetic field

Table 8: Technical Details of Rotary Screen Printing

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10.0 Finishing

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10.1 Stenter It is used for: I.

Emulsion padding for MXL

II.

For OBA application

III.

For heat setting

•

Both pin and clip arrangements are used

•

Oil heating mechanism for drying

•

7 chambers in stenter.

•

Bowing and heading rollers at the feed end to remove creases.

•

Overfeed: -5%.

•

Fabric speed: -50m/min

PROCESS: CHAMBER NO 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

LIGHT SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C

MEDIUM SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C

DARK SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 150 0C 150 0C 150 0C

Defects: •

Pin holes

•

 Yellowing

•

Oil spots or soiling

10.2 Sanforising 84 | P a g e

•

It is pre shrinking finishing

•

Rubber belt shrinks the fabric along with it

•

Speed 50 m/min

•

Steam heated roller over belt at 110 0C

•

50 m fabric from in to out

•

After shrinking zone, there is a setting zone to set the shrinkage in fabric

•

Fabric is cooled and then batched

•

Some shade variation may occur

10.3 Calendering •

Fabric speed of 70 m/min

•

Expander rollers are used at feed end

•

3 roll system with 2 cotton rolls and one steel roll

•

 Temperature of calendars roller is 70 0C

•

Pressure 70 N/mm

•

Strength reduces after calendaring

•

It improves the feel and surface appearance of fabric

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10.4 Microsanding •

•

Rollers with diamond Amery pile  Two pairs of rollers 

Rough- 220 grades



Smooth- 400 grades

•

24 rollers

•

Lower grade, higher toughness

•

220 grade rollers move opposite to the direction of fabric

•

400 grade rollers along the direction of fabric

Defects: •

Pitch variation

•

Batching (tension variation)

•

Creases

•

CS

•

Speed - 46 rpm

•

Fabric speed -10 m/min

•

 Tension onto roll -50 kg

10.5 Brushing •

Fabric speed - 199.6 m/min

•

24 small rollers over a big roll

•

Speed of rollers -110 rpm

•

Pile speed -125 rpm

•

Counter pile speed -115 rpm

•

It improves softness of the fabric

•

Both back and face abrasion/brushing is possible 86 | P a g e

 TAPE USED IN PACKING •

Black – Roll will go to finishing.

•

Red – Minor defects and it will again go for inspection.

•

 Yellow – Printing defects and it will for inspection for rectification.

A, B, C is the type of coding used to identify the party.

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11.0 Testing and Inspection

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Textile Testing  Textile  Textile testing testing refers refers to all the testing testing proce processes sses involve involved d in fabric fabric manufacturing, it ranges from fiber testing, Yarn testing, Fabric testing and testing processes involved in Dyeing and Printing. Whenever an order is confirmed, it takes 1 day to analyze it at Alok Industries Ltd., the analysis is done at testing lab, and the main parameters considered in the sample are as follow: •

Material

•

Warp Count

•

Weft Count

•

EPI

•

PPI

•

Weave Type

•

Feasibility

11.1 Yarn Testing:  The main main paramete parameters rs tested tested in a yarn are are as: •

Count

•

Strength – in Pounds

•

Imperfections: thick and thin places

•

Strength : RKm (Resistance/Km)

•

CSP : Count strength product

•

U Percentage : Uniformity

If RKm of a yarn is higher, the yarn has higher strength and if it is lower the yarn has a lower strength.

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CSP: it says that for a yarn of particular count at what strength applied the yarn breaks down. If U% is higher, the yarn has a lower quality and there is a lot of nonuniformity, but if it is lower the yarn is considered to be more uniform and of  higher quality. Amount of Material to be inspected is as follow: Order Quantity Upto 100 kg 100-1000 kg 1000-4000 kg 4000 kgs and above

No. of Cones to be inspected 2 cones 5 cones 10 cones 15 cones

Machines used for yarn testing are as: Wrap Reel: the main purpose of wrap reel is to identify the count of the yarn. Cones:Reel = 1:3 Speed of machine is 120 RPM, Length of ‘lea’ is known and accordingly the count is measured.

Figure: Wrap Reel

Electronic Twist Tester: The Tester:  The machine machine measures measures the the TPI TPI (twist (twist per per inch) inch) in the yarn. Board Winder: it is a wooden board kind of testing equipment on which the yarn is winded, it determines the imperfections like thick and thin places, Neps etc. if on the board there is uniformity and even distribution, it means that there are lower defects in the yarn and it has a higher quality. Uster Tester: It is an advanced testing machine by ‘Uster Technologies’, it displays different Yarn parameters on a monitor like: •

U percentage

•

CVm

•

Number of Neps

•

Hairiness

•

Foreign Matter 90 | P a g e

Uster Tensojet: This Testing equipment mainly deals with Tensile strength and effects on yarn on the application of force in lengthwise direction. The machine can be used to check parameters like: •

 Tenacity (RKm)

•

Strength of yarn

•

Breaking Force

•

Elongation

For combed cotton yarn of 30’s count tenacity should be more than 20 RKm. Uster Classinat Quantum: this testing equipment which is a fully automated determines the slub and color contamination, it works at a very high speed of  almost 500 Mtrs/min. On a testing parameter it classifies the defects in following categories: 0–1 1–8 8 – 32

Nep Slub (short thick) Slub (long thick)

11.2 Fabric Testing:  The main parameters tested on a fabric are as: •

Width Variation

•

EPI

•

PPI

•

GSM

•

•

 Tearing Strength Imperfections like thick, thin places

If GSM of a fabric is lower the tensile strength of the fabric is lower. The roll to roll width variation is around ½ to 1 inches, while inside a roll width variation tolerance is 1 cm, the main reason for width variation in roll is the pretreatment processes and dyeing, width variation is minimal in case of greige fabric. Machines used in fabric testing process are as: 91 | P a g e

•

Tensile Strength: ASTM 5034 (Titan2 machine), Sample size: 250 * 100 mm2

•

Tearing strength: ASTM 1424 (Elmatear Machine), Sample size: 100 * 63 mm2

•

Pick Glass: For EPI and PPI calculation

•

GSM Tester: To calculate the GSM of the fabric

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11.3 Defects Found in Inspection Department Specifications & Appearance Cover Bumping Reediness Neppiness Hazyness Unevenness Streakiness Kitty Level Fringe – Less than 4mm Selvedge – 6mm - 8mm Dyeing Related Damages Patta Shade not Matching Shade Variation Uneven Dyeing Streaks Spinning related Damages Coarse Pick Cockled Yarn Color Contamination Count Variation Dirty End Double Weft High Twist Yarn Knots Moire Effect Neps Oily Weft Slub Slubby Weft Uneven Weft Yarn  Three Ply Coarse End

Weaving Related Damages

Ball Formation Black Stain Broken End Broken Pick Bump Mark Broken Pattern Design Change Design Cut

Reed Cut Selvedge Without Leno Short Pick Sizing Patches/ Crystal Sizing Stain Slack End Slough Off   Slackness

Double End

Snarling

Double Pick Temple Mark Fine End Hanging Thread Starting Mark  Thin Places Thick Places Knots Lashing In Leno Cut Less Width Let Off Mark Lighting Starting Mark Light thick place Loom Fly Loops Loose Leno Binding Mending Impression Missing End Nozzle Mark Oily Stain Pulled Warp

Stain Loose Pick Temple cut Weft Bar Weft Distortion Wrong Denting Wrong Drawing Wrong Pattern Wrong Weft Yarn Lot Change Reed mark Take off Mark Dobby line Jumping End Floating Wrong End Smash Partial Defect Crack Hole Float Multiple Breakage Rust Stain Sizing Machine Stops  Torn Fabric  Tear Drop Stitches

Table 9: Manufacturing Defects in Yarn and Fabric

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Grey Fabric Inspection Four Point American System Sl. No. 1.0 Weft Wise 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 2.0 Warp Wise 2.1 3.0 Partial Defect 3.1

Damage Length

Point Count

0.1” - 3” 3” - 6” 6” – 9” 9” and above

1 2 3 4

1/25th of the length

4

=< 5 mm

2

Table 10: Four Point Fabric Inspection System

Note:•

All color foreign matter should be removed.

•

All partial defects more than 5 mm should be cut.

Quality/ Grading (for minimum 5000 meters shipment).

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Grey Fabric Grading & Inspection Marketing/ Grade

Pts./100 sq. Mtr.

A

15

Pts./ 100 Linear mtrs (Normal Width) 24

B

22

35

C

31.25

50

D

No bar

<10 mtrs

E

No bar

F

All continuous Defect (warp + weft) 47

>11 - <20 mtrs No bar

G

75

Pts./ 100 linear meter (Wider Width) 45

Fabric Length

>20 mtrs for domestic >40 mtrs & above for Export 67 >20 mtrs & above 95 >20 mtrs & above >1 - <5 mtrs >1 mtrs - <10 mtrs >5 - <20 mtrs >11 mtrs <20 mtrs All continuous >20 mtrs and Defect (warp above + weft) nil >20 mtrs and above

Table 11: fabric Gradation Chart

Note: - All remaining qualities less than one meter will be designated as under Market Chindi Fents

Length 0-25 cm 25-99 cm

Packing in kg in kg

Formula: Points per 100 sq. meters. = Total points * 39.37 * 100 Width / Total Meters.

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