NO. 20
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NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$2.50
Sawdust Number Twenty
March,1962
Edrtor Donald B_ Peschke Oe$Ign DIrector Ted Knlilcel<
Art O!f'eetor Jon Snyder ASsISl8nl Edll0t Stolro Krohmer
Graphic Des'9ner Mate(a Simmons
Subscopoon Manage< Sandy J, Boum
When we started
to put together
this
issue, I fully inlended to have a step-bystep article on cUlling half-blind dovetail. (as a follow-up to the last issue's article on through dovetails.) But things didn't work out the way we planned. Here', what happened. In addition to the article on balf-blind dovetails, we thooght it would be a good idea to include the how-to on cutting a dovetail tongue and groove joint. To cut this joint we needed a router table, So, this was the perfect opportunity to design a new router table (to update the one shown in n'"()(l(iSttlitl, No.5). Ted and I agreed that this new t-outer table should be a bench-tep model. \Ve tossed around ideas on the pro. and con, of the "store-bought" models, and came up with a list of changes we'd like t.o make. \V. decided the new router table should !) have a fairly large table, 2) have 8 low profite for 8 comfortable work h~ighl, 3) be easy to damp to any workbench, and 4) be easy to store. Ted came up with a design that mel all of these criteria, and I suggested we use a scrap piece of kitchen counter Iparticle board with R F (1nll ieo top), The new router table worked like a charm ... for a while. Then the top warped so badly we couldn't use itta cut the dovetail tongue and groove (the original point or this whole effort), We switched to plywood and j1(lSOlli(f ror the top, And this time it didn't warp. In r"ct. I got _0 carried ""''1IY with how well this new router table worked that 1 thought a couple of projects using the De" router table would be ideal for this issue. So, we built the ~"all Shelf Ipage 2(1)and the Bread Board (page 24).
SIIARl·~!':L~r.. As if seven pages isn't enough on sharpening, 1have a rew other comments I'd like to make. first, concernIng the wheel used to grind tile bevel on a chisel, Lfyouhave it in your budget, I think lIle /I.·orloll grinding wheel, discussed in this issue are well worth the investment. Yau won't believe how much difference there i< between 8 proper [Norum] wh ee 1 and one of th_ all-purpose wheels that are standard on most grinders, Since no catalogs (that we know 00 carry Norton wheels, you'U have to locate 1\ Norton di.... tributor in your area. In addition to the grinding wheels, he'll probably also have the factory oil-filled stones (these are a
good deal
too),
In lhe articles on sharpening in this issue, we talked only about chisels, \Vby not include plane irons? They're sharpened the: same \\la~1aren't lhel~? Admlnlstrativ. Assjslanl Plane iron. (cutler blades) 81'e indeed Cheryl Scott sharpened exactly the same way as chisels. (I use a 25· grinding angle and then hone a Coombubng Eddor micro-bevel on the cutting edge at a AdOlphE. Peschke .lightly Steeper angle.) However, when a chisel is sharpened, it's ready to use, as is. A plane iron, on the other hand, must be mounted in a plane. There are a lot of other problem. associated with planes in order to make them work properly. \\'c'lI be running a complete article on using and adjusting planes in a future issue, LATEJIIOTE.ltnever Just when we were \\'Tapping up this issue we received a FrugTool Catalog. In it they li~t almost all the equipment we use: fine/coarse India combination stones, a leather stropping pad, the diamond stones, small sticks or' buffing compound (including rouge), and a 8inee we were Ylorking v.ith the router combination lndiolsoft. Arkon$M. If you somuch. we thougbt8largt'rproject might want to get this catalog, send $2 tu Frog be in order, That's when we started work Tool Co. Ltd .. Dept, W, 700 IV. Jackson on the Buffet Table (page I-t), The half- Blvd.• Chicago, IL 60606. N&II FACES. Once again we've added a circle leaves are cut with a router and a new face to the gang at lVooditmillt. JOn WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-'1114)Is publlsheO trammel point attachment. At this point. half the issue \\'3$ lilled Snyder has joined us as our new An. Direeblmonlhly (January. March. May. July, S8Pand still no half-blind dovetails. Then J tOI'. Jon has exceptional talent. with lembet. November) by Woodsmilh Publishing Co .• 2200Grand Ave.,Des MolO85.lowa 50312, started thinking . , . in order to cut half- graphics, design, and phOlogn.phy (he WOODSMITH Is a regiStered Irademar1
; me in the shop to build both your old end I1iIW address and a tn4ihng ask a rew simple questions (which turned something or sweep up, But most of the label from a recent Issue. into 3 three-page interview). PoS1mas1or; Send change 01 address notice, AUin all. I'm happy with the way tiling>; work you see in Wood8milh is the result of Form 3579.10 Woodsmilh PublislllngCo.. 2200 turned out. even though w~never did get Ted's talent and c:l".tltsmanship. NEXTllA(LIlIG, May, 1982. Grand Ave.. Des MoInes. Jowa 50312. to half-blind dcvetails, Subscnpllon A$$IslanlS Christel Bork Donna Prins
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rails.
WOODSMITH
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T_i~s& Technigu_es __ TABLE SAW SETUP
MOSto(Lhe table saws that I've used have been out of square in one way or another. 1 use a simple test to determine whether or not the saw's table (and the miter gauge channel) is square with the saw blade. Pirst" place a straight-edge flush against the raised saw blade. Clamp the straight edge in place and lower the saw blade. Using a piece of scrap wood, butt the wood against the straight-edge at the front of the table and clamp it to the miter gauge. Then slide the assembly toward the rear of the table,
r-
I ClAMP
sc•.,
TO Mfltt GAUG£
Gat )
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To eliminate this problem, I dye the
canvas black. Then after it is dry, Ismooth
it out using an iron. Next I apply the glue to the back of the stained tambour slats and attach them to the canvas in the
normal fashion, Even as the canvas stretches, I'm sure it won't be noticeable between the slats.
Long Beach Road, Oceanside, N. Y. 1157'2. The adapter is available for various sizes router motors and radial arm saws.
DOllald C. Druce Longueltil, Qllebee fASY JIG fOR RAISED PANELS
Here's a method of cutting raised panel» Chatln L. Rober .• that is similar to the method you use, but I lVauktaha, Wu.c(I>18in think it's a bit quicker, a bit more accurate, and a whole lot safer. RADIAL ARM SAW TABLES The first step is to attach an auxiliary I've had 8 problem with the saw kern in fence to the rip fence on the table saw, the surface of my radial arm saw table. The Then the jig is made out of scrap wood with saw kerfs accumulate to the point that there's quite a large gap in the table. To avoid replacing the surface of the table every time it gets had, 1 rout a slot in the table, .lighlly orf-center with the blade, to accept an insert of 14- plywood. The inserts are about 2" wide, and as long lIS the table is deep. They fit in the table slightly off-center with the blade. When the insert gets chewed up, just turn it end for end. Because the insert is slightly off center \\ith the blade, you'll get
I.DG. WITH'" If the table and the blade are not square with each other, one of tWO things will happen. The board will either pull away from the straight-edge, or it will bind into the su'8igbt-edge. If it binds, follow the same procedure, but start from the hack of the table. If there's a gap, it indicates that there's an error in the table- to-blade alignment. Adjust the position oflhe trunnion in the direction you would have had to move the straight-edge to close the gap. Recheck the alignment using the same method and repeat this procedure until the board is no longer pulling away from the slraightedge. Then repeal the same test starting from the opposite end of the table. Be sure to move the straight edge flush with the saw blade each time the trunnion is moved. When there's no gap after testing from both ends of the table, the saw blade (and the miter gauge channel) is aligned with the table top. Riclwrd. Bo.7TO"
Jod<$On, Afissiltrippi STAINING TAMBOUR CANVAS
Most articles on roD tOP desks recommend
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using unprimed white can" as to fasten the tambour slats together. The problem I've encountered is that white canvas shows through even the slightest opening between Lbe slats, especially if they're stained. WOODSMITH
ITIW ~
the following restrictions: I. Piece A must be the same thickness as the auxiliary fence. 2. Pieces A and B should be about the same length as the panel being cut. 3. Piece B must clear any obstructions on the top of the rip fence (Sears rip fence has adjusting bolts on the top of their rip fence), Clamp the panel to be cut to piece A and slide the jig along the auxiliary fence. Clamp as low as possible on the panel, but do not place the clamp below piece A Orthe jig wiD bind on the fence.
afresh surface forth e s aw kerf. By turning the insert over, you've got two more new surfaces, or a total of four per insert, An added advantage to a clean saw kerf Fronk Nagy is cutoff accuracy. By making your cutoff Colum/nUl. Ohio mark on the bottom edge of the board, the \---------------1 mark can be very ensily aligned to either IS_E_N_D_I_N_Y ..... O_U_R_I_DEAS_'- __ ----; the right or the left edge of the saw kerr. We Invite you 10sI1are your _Ing tops and techniques wrth other readers 01 Wood· L.A.D. Cotvin smith.We wI~pay a mlnimum0155 lora tIP,and Satellite Beach, Florid4 510Of more for a special I_nique. All matenal ROUTER JIG fOR THE RADIAL ARM SAW SUbmltted becomes the p
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The Nitty.-GrinY On Stones • AN INTERVIEWWITH THE NORTON COMPANY to/UII products that we sell are,
'\-'r "~(ll,t,'d10 yri more ;",-
without a doubt, softer than our India products, Of COW"$(' there i, adifference in the abrasive particles: they are two dif· ferent materials altogether, Remember, we're talking about vitrified bond or bonded abrasives, 1I0t abrasive particles by themselves, \I'OOIlS)lITII: Isn't it true though, that silicon carbide is harder than aluminum o,ude~ Cl'LUN: The abrasive panicles themselves are harder But when you mix bond. and abrasive particles. the percentage or bond to abrasive will give you the diffeJ'('nt hardness of your finished product. \\'OODS~IIT[I: I see, so il doesn't roally have to do $Oldy with the hardness of the abrasive itself, it's a combination
0" tlte CQ,.,""and 'i..He
jtJnllailf)f
of br'lt''' ."tO/~"S. $0 1'('(' icent .1""Uill I.. Q[ /11< IUI'yeM "ttlltu.fatturv:rt
""< u.f
811))1('$ TIlC
.\'orl{Jn Co. Jlft~r Ictlkflrg
'('lIJ, .\'t,rloPl. (t,uazed at Ihi' "'Nttlt ,(font/a/it,'l tl,t!,!lQ L't' 1)$. I II
1('(' (1'("(' OJ'I
[art,
If'(,"lf'
""("11
rha nard
$O~)lf
oj {',tr Illt'fllot.i:c (Iud rqJli]Jlllflt' tl~ a resut! af the ill/~:r!lje'(I. T"
and 1'0"/ 0/01'111.Product En-
giuec)'1i.
disc'tK~ gr;/fdi,t9
And ill Ihl' ltMf s~l;on. list th» sourcesfor the items 1nr"ti(~lIeJt" II,/! i1ltert'ltlL', II .Iw,,/d be lIotell lI
111/tt'eI8. 11ft'
Ila",CS Cry:;tolon a'ld India a f't trade marks ('IIr 'fie -"IIrlII" xilfcQl' cCl rbide ('ltd tlllllll itt It tIt ocide prtJd~/CI$. \\'()OOS\11TII! Could you give
of. ..
COlllpalll1'S
us some
basic information on the difference between the Crl/$toIOlt and lndi« stones? \\'hal thev're made of, what rhev're bonded together with. and what their advantages and di:;advantages are and <0 forth, Just some solid background informaliUlt on the stones, l'l1Ll.l\: Well. 1he
(-'Y!I_tolt", stone is {I product made out of coke and silkn fired at very high temperatures. The temperature of the furnac .. that doe. this is approxirnat ely 4500 degrees Fahrenheit, This forms • big block \\ hieh is broken up with .Ieldia .tone$~ Cl:t.I.I);: There are various of types of bands on the market.. Most of the Norton product!; a ceramic or glM$·tYlle band
,,<.
LO band the abrasive particles together. The bonding material and the abrasive particles are fired at high temperatures to eure the bond. so that it will hold the abraslve panicles together. There are also resin-type bond••• hellae-type bonds, and sodium silicate-type bonds. WOODSltlTH: Are all of these different type.; of bonds used in bench stones? n 1.t..L':No, not in our bench stcnes. \Ve only use a ceramic-type band in our bench stones. But there are bench stones on the market that use the other types of bonds. WOQUS.\IITU: \Vnen you acrually make the stone, let's say the Crysl%ll stone, you take the silicon carbide lhat has been crushed to pre-determined size and then how do you combine it \\;th the bonding material and ereate lhe actual stone? crLU~: \Veactually take a mixing pot and mix the banding material and the sbrasive particles and put them in 3 die. It'. then put under pressure to create a density that we know we want for a preknown hardness ••• if it's ared at the tiJi(ht wm· perature and for the right length of time. WOOllS1JlTII: So it'; a combination of pre."Sure and heat that cr"ates the final product? l"'I,I#I~:J)yoe~;;,ul"(J'first, then heaL 'Not
<:ll.t..J);:It's a combination of the abrasive. of the bond, the pressure, the density, the firing temperatures. the time cycle . , . , \I 001)$)111'11: A multiple of fllctol"$'! Cl'l..Ll'i: YC~. II QOUS)IITl1: How do the
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Cry.t%u and
lndia stones compare when sharpening woodwol'king lOO!'? cn.Ll'i: In relation to woodworking, the
C""s'o!o" 'tone could be ""00 with any woodworking tool, It will give you. faster cut than the lndi« ,'10Ile, it will auack the metal faster. and break it down faster. Rut the aluminum oxide Or Illdia stone will Aive you a finer cutting edge, It take. longer to put an edge on with an I "din 81.Onethnn it does a Cry$tololl
WOOOSMITII
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working applicatioM, let's say fol' plane irons 01' bench chisels, would a soil AI" kansa« stone be sufficient for a fine edge? Or would 1I han! Ark''''&l$ stone be , . " l'l:LLlS, Por myself, I wouldn't go beyond the fine Illdia stone .. , the fine aluminum oxide stone. I don't feel you need any further honing of the edge, WOOn$)IITII, On your C"yol%" and Illdia bench stones, what's the difference between using oil and water as a lubricant? I believe you recommend oil, don't )'(,u1 Cn.LlS:YeS, Werecammendoilforallof rbe artifidal products like aluminum oxide and sUi",n carbide, And water for natural products like th~ Arka.,sa$ stones. The main purpose of either oil or water is to prevent the metal particle, from becoming embedded in the surface of the stone, Thb causes the stone to bet'Orne glazed, which is when the surface of the stone i~ ruled with metal particles. Glazinj!'prevents the abrasive crystals from sticking through and doing the actual cutung, \\'OOI)$\tITII: Are thpl"e an)' preventive measures that can be taken to eliminate glazing of the stones? (,ULI.IN:Using an oil, of COUThC, for artificial products and water for natural products, The pUl'J)OSeof the oil or water. i. to !>ickUI' the metal particles and put them in a suspension so thaI when you clean the stone afterwards, you clean the metal particles away so thaI they don't become embedded in the stone. AU of our industrial stones ru" oil Riled at the
recommend water for the A rku stones? crt.ux. Yes. because an Arkall$aS$tone will not absorb oil, And ifil does, il will t..-a very small amount in the very lOPsurface of the stone. WOOOS!lITH, One problem that we have encountered with our bench stones is trying to keep them nat. And after the~' have become dished OUL,determining Ihe proper procedure for flattening' them, The stones which we URethe most are the CT/l8to/,m, tndi«, and Ihe .-lrkalls•• stones. What would you recommend as the best way for the average woodworker in the home "hop to keep the stonee nar! Ct'LLL'1: AImOSIimpossible. wOOOS~IITJI: Almost impossible'! (1.'LLI)(,There is a method that ron be used, By uainga piece of'flnt east iron anrl a loose abrasive approximately 10 to 90 gMt, WOOO5.\lITII: An abrasive like silicon ear • bide slu,"ry? C;C;I..LIS: Yes, like silicon carbide or any good abrasive slurry. Aluminum oxide could be used, too. Silicon carbide probably work. better because it doesn't break down a' fast, \\'OOns~IITII'How is the silicon carbide slurry used on the cast iroll plate': C~'LI.I:-/: The method i$ to (
faclOT)'.
the aluminum
"IIIlOSMITU:Is tbis the same t}1le of oil that we Uti
\\'()()DSMITH: 0,' the A,.ka".,~ stones? CIJ1.L1N: The Arka IISUS slone would be e''tremely hard to do because of its lineness and hardnes.. It could be done, but it would take an awful lot of effort. \\'OOOs..\lll'.l: Is this something )TOU would recommend ,;omeone do periodically to keep the stolle nat rathe,. lban wailinl! until the stone is in really bad condition 8nd lhen Irying W do the maintenance! C;IL1.I&The sooner you do it. when you fir.t start getling a dip in the stone, the easier it will be beca",", you Mven't got that muth material to remove to get baek to a flat surfaoo. The ideal wny, of course, is to use an abrasive sIUlT)' on a laPI.ing plate aU1
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\VOODSMITH
Qxjde or India stones.
ClL,tiron plate will 1:1.<1" lonj! time, "he thin~ is, ~'OUdo it in a circular 01' rotation movement OJl the cast iron pbue. You're IIctulIllylapping the plate ai rh...same time you'1'I.'lal)ping Lh. stone. \\'C)C)1)~~11"1! So YOU should trv to work lhe whole surface oj-the imn IlI.t~.o t hal It works down C\'CI11)'. too, Cl'I.LIN:
'·es.
you're lappinK a bench stone with an abrasive. th(· texture on the surface (Ie the :.lonl~Ml't'nl::- lu be \\'()()I)$~IIT.I~ When
altered. HO\\f cl\le$ the surface l(>xIU1"t.' affect the sharpening qualities of the ~t()nt!'!
('l'I.LIS: It afrect.:-it quue ~ bit. Y()II will ~hange the surface of the stone. The stone originally has a luppmg bed fini.h on it. done normally with a fine abrasive, The
finer the abrasive ~Inuuse, the ~moothero,' Iiner texture surface )'OU 8J-e Itoing to gel. The thing is to have that surface nol IO(J rough and not tuo fine. IVhat you are b'ying to do i. to open up the pore, o[thal surfueesothat. you have the abrasive particles .tickinR ul' to do the sharpening. \\ O<'J)S..\IITH: If the surface be-ccmes tOC} coarse. will the stone be clltting as if it were a
coarser Slone'!
('n.LI;", Yes, it "ill. \\·(l()I)S~ltTII:By
u$iltg' R fine $Iurr)', will
you be abl~ to retain the surface texture r3irl~tclose to the original surface texture? ('rLLIN: y",. You will J(ct " dlfferem "ffeCl by doing it by hand as compared to doing it on a rolaling bed, But lhe differ· ence will not be that greal. 1V()()11S'I1TII, [f ),OU.huuld I/el it :\Illooth, wlUthe ~utting action be rodut-ed? (I'LLL~:You'll have to lal' it befon! tOO long beesu,", you are going to 103,1 the .u,'faCt' quickly beeau.
0"".-1,
(·I·t.t~IX:No.
not. 3.-; long as yuu have
~-\n
abn ...ive thero. \~'h.t you ru'" tl~1ng to do i~ lap an abrasi,-'c \\1th all abra~ive. I'ln ufr-Jidyou'll find tMt the stone will eat into lh. 1'"1"'''.., fMI that you'll us. UI' more paper than it would be worth to huy a new SLone_
WOOOSMITH: \Vhcr"as iryou wen~ to the slurry and a piel'" of steel, it would Cllt much quicker, en,LI.': Ye$, and of course the slurry ... the .ili",n ,,,,,rbid. abrasive, , . is still then: and you <'all l1!u:;eit over and ..v~r and over. It \\~IIbreak down 10 the point that it become_.;:\'ery fine and e_\rentuall~' it will have to be replaced. W0005lIlTII: Once a stone become. glazed, what is the p.-oeedure for cleaning
it? Cl'LLL'(,
The same as taking the dishing
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out of It u"ing the eas t Iron plate
.,.arbide .lurry.
allu "illc'O" talking about tool steel that is fairly hard. So you'll want a cool cutting wheel to keep the burn down, because burn damages that
EUJTOK"S ~f)'ffo!: \1'f uls.() l('Ult/~ d ta find (Jl.t flf}ottt llu: carl! ul.d )/U,i/~tc'tal,('e 0.(
kind of steel. On tool steel. Norton recommends 32 Allmdlt'" or 32A. 32A is 8 real grrlldi'1ty ulheels. For IJ,~.~ informctio» '~'e cool cutting abrasive, and can be used lalked 10 Phil W"«olly,'lnlld Ilirh Glo"ill, either wet or dry. Pl'ad,tr"t r:J,gilt~l)r8 [or ilu: l\'tJri()~ The 32A is an off-white wheel that's 3 (·(II'iptl)/Y· form of aluminum oxide. towards the pure end of the spectrum. If you want a \'~ry. WO<)US'IfTH, \Vc've been experimenting "M)' soft action and. very cool cut you'll go with dre ssing sticks and dressing wheels, to a aBA, which is the purest form oi'alumiOJ"sUIT wheels. to clean up our grinding num oxide you can get. Probably the ideal wheel •. Can you tell U' the proper way to general purpose wheel for woodworking use lht.~ t()ol~'! would be a 32A.60-I-S-VBE or something WETTt;S(:P.I.,A dressing ~tick is gen· close to this. erally JUStPUtup t(l the fQeeoftne wheel to EOITOIl'S)(OTE;A.ller f(llki,,!! to PI. il 01 a open up the face and clean any metal that might be clugging the wheel. It'll clean the lau r dale. lie I/O.'" Ih./01/"''';119 91(iikli IItS tn us.e Il'h~u pIlIThasi~(gNorto» gri,1difl{1 wheel, but it won't true it. wheel», 1\·I)<)I):;'\lITH, So it takes off the glazing~ WIITT~M't)I.;Ril,-nt, "xartly 1, Fec " Jl ur a.I,iAlundum II'htel (lyp< ,0( abt'fJ.!li,'c) \\'OOI)$\'IT11: I~ there an)' \.\'3)' you can t. J6 or 60grit for glIT1t; Wben we use the grinding i. matched fur your purpose, y~u really wheel for grinding woodworking tools, • huuldn't have tOil much of a glazing we"" been tempted to use the side of the grinding wheel rather than the edge, Are problem? \\'~TTI:~C.I:I.;Right. it would be very there any problem. wnh u:ting the side of a minimal, I'm net j!:Oillg to say none, be- grindinp; wheel? GLAI'L'I; Th~typeo[\\'heel found on mo.t e.II~" lhat would be ".1'), difficult to achi."e. Jr you get no glazing. the wheel ;" bench j1;rindel'S is a type one, 01' a strrugl,t probably so dog·gone soflthatit won't hold wheel This tJ'jle of wheel is not to be u.~l it. shape. It won't hold the $hape ~f what 01\ it..~$ide. This is an unsafe pratlice 3n,I )'ou are grinding, and it will wear away !'oO shou}() :tl('r:er be u$(.·d. WQ()IlS\1tTII,So the normal grinding fast that you will not be utilizing all of the wheel found in 8 woodworking shop should abr:'\$i\'e. So )'on "'llnl lO make sure [t'f. hard enough to utili7k all of the abrasive lIot be used on its .ide? GLA 1'1"; That is correcl. You should u.., grains. WQ(lI)SMITU;\Vh.t are th~ dl'essing th~ race ol'the perimeterofthe wheel only. (star) wheel and the .iol(lu Iloint diamonil OUR CONCLUSIONS IIstodfor? wt:TTE~G.:I,; Generally the dressing Arter conducting the inter,~ews \lith the NOl'lon Co. officials, Wetried to locate (.tal') wheel would actuall~' be caUed a truing whed. Either the truing wheel or all of the different items lhat had been mentionL'd. At limes, this seemed like the the .ingle point dfamond "ill be both true 3nd dl'C$S the wheel. Most people lind it most difficult 1>8rtof the article. Some of ea..';er to u,,,,, a single point diamulld than a lhe grinding whw],; weren't available at truing wht>elto true and dress the wheill. au.' local Norton disuibutOr, and many or You ran mount the single peint diamond on the tI~aning and truing devices were no· a block and jU8t pa.'!S it back and forth where to be found in many of the major al1
man
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have had to pay a minimum per item charge that was considerably higher than the $2O.00.S!lO.OO price of the wheel. Then Phil Wettengel called and said that the 32A-60.!,g..VBE wheel was the ideally perfL'Ctwheel. but not the only wheel thai would meet our needs. This is when we were given the jreneraJ guidelines that appeared as an editor's note in the interview, He said he felt that with these guideline •• almost an)' Norton distributor could fill the order. The Norton distributor in )'oU}-area can be found by looking in the Yellew Pages of the phone book under Abrasives. To Our amazement. of all the mllior mail order catalogs that we checked, only \Voodcrart Supply stock. any grinding wheels. \V"cn we tried to find out more specific information on the wheels they offer in their catalog. they said they didn't have any additional information available on that product. They did tell us that the wheels the)' ofTer are produced by Bay State Abrasives. but that's another articlel DRE."SISG STICKS. There was only one catalog that listed dressing sucks. Silicon carbide dressing sticks are available from: Woodcraft Supply (catalog No. LL'I51.DW, S2.30), 31a Montvale Avo .. \\'oburo, :ItA 01888. TRt:L"C (STAll)WHEELS.There were two mail order cat.alog;;that list truing wheels, \\'ood.,·.o. Supply (see address above), No. oaAll·B:-I, $9.7u. And Gan'('tt \Vade (CAtalogNo. 76)103.01. $.10). 161Avenue of the Americas, New York, N. Y. 10013. \\'e also found 3 truing wheel at a local lumber yard, so they may be available localII'. SIXGLI<: l'OI~T l)lJ\~IONOS.'rhe single point diamond that's used to true and dre.. the grillding wht",1 i. nothing more than a steel roc) \\;th an in(lu~lrial diamond embedded in the end. Again, lhere was only one catalog that li.ted th""". They are listed in tbe Gan"U Wade tatalog (_ address abo"e) 1\0. ().jM03.01. $13.95.
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$ll..ll·():,\ ('·AJlH11)t;SLl·RftY. As far 3$ \"C
can deli!lllIine, lhl'l'e'. only une source for silicon cal'bide slUrry. It'. R valve grinding compound used in the automotive industry for grindin!! the \'3h'c seats on engille heads. According to the manufactu.'e. Per· m.tex. the only place to purchase it i" through a 1O<'a1 auto patl..~stOre. They also mentioned thRt it may not b. available at every 8Uto partS store "'",all.e if g nOIused very often. Ifit's nOl available at the auto parts store you check. the~' recommend you ,..k th. parts 510re who their Per· matex di.tributor is and c'tlntatl him to loc.,.teSOmeOnein your area that cames it. The val\'e grinding compeund comes in only tl\'Osize•. l~oz. and 3 oz. Inuur area, the
•
• __ Sha~ening Aids GADGETS THAT GET THE POINT
that are mirror im.~.· of .ach other- $0 the holes an' in IhI' ",'m,' I_"illon on both {),II of tile be...t wavs to remove the \\lrt· .id1'5 of the!!lind,·r. ...Ig, (burr) from a dti.",1 ;, "ith a k>atll<-r Simply bolt tho onlllnal tool rests to .m'ppmg pad. I made m~ 0" n t.1 mPJ'InG thed "l;.t'l!\'r(lonj!cr) .uPI> n for the diamcnd point dresser hokkor dL'It'r·:- roU~1!fir, on,- and boiled it to th,' upnght (mending plate) zo,idt.· to ~\'t·the ~trop 8 liub- merv "bue." ann. Then I ,,"d.,d 11 .In" of 0/.. plywooU 'Ph,' oth~I' side is just plain Ipath.r rClrfin.t .troppinjl. (Jeweler's rouge can u.uall) be found .t Lapidary sup pI)' ,lo~,;lock in the Y"'lo" Paj:e,.l LEATHfR STROPPING PAD
-....,
•
IMPROVfD TOOL RfST
.t.1"$"hiriing away-.plnnin;:
the JlMnd ,,~ wl,..e1 at 172.>RPll But lhal'8 .. here ItAIIII<·rul"..""ends, If you'v·e ever tncd to adju,t th.- ,,,,,I rest on almo>t any gnm"'r, you'\'(' come face to face \\;th pour d., Tool "'"t. are "uppoSl'f1to pn)\"id". surface to hold a chi.. 1 at the anRle )'ou ne<~1for grinding. Cranted, the to"II'I'.1 on ollr SNlnl grinder is fully aciju'IRhl." and It', I"""'ibl~ to >'Ilt it at • 2.> 8n{(l" for gnndinl!: a ehi.-el. But •.• wben it's set at lh"t anQ'lp, I'OU'", form! to work on til<-tra,hnl( a", (bottom halO of the wh,..,1 "here It', d,(· ficult to see what'& going on. Aloo. at :!.'; til., tool ...,.t mu.t be pivot'..! tex, far .W8) (bevpled at ~~ un theln'lde t' modification. M shown in the drawinJ{,1 or plane irons. And, It clln be positioned addl~1an upnjlhl "arm" on eRch.id,· orthe le,·.lto "'Juar. th.· "nd of a eh;'''', or tiiled J!11ndcr These anns arc cut frlora.>::o. ~ ju...'l. an 'l1OP 'on:.l1eoding plate>'< are available impro,'ised \'"r-ionofthe eedu boxe, thaI at any hard,,-are store. I 0.«'(1 th~ I',IU" come \\;th n" .. t ,\rkan_ ,tOIl(o,.The <>n1y 1,·nJl1.hbec-.. u.-e it's a little thick.r than lh .. .hange 1 mad" is th" lenllth or the bott<>m. shorter .~ •. Also. since some of the pre· I made the bottom aboul I longer lhan lh. dl;II<'
"!ti'
n.t
•
WOOOSMITH
I macI,,· thlh ~ll)nt_·OOX (rum r' ....I\\clJIlJjl Cut a Illl~ (ur th\' bottom t-!clnj.!'t·)·"ncll " dt"r' th ••" tht' ~I.)nt·. 111.,'11cut tht' 111\'t't~ for the tidl~ Ililtl (·nd~ I hl)!her ("id,'r) than I be tot Of\(' I:' thick. (iroul' th e 1'11'('\:'"an,uIlcl ,lx' t\ttJlk~ til nu...k. I'\tl'\ th('~'fit, and lht'J\ cut U ftll' tho t(',t, lIlue ev l'J,)"thinJ,: lVj.!l'thl'r (r,'rn"\'I'
,,,t.'t
0,
~
I
CUllH HAll' urta ASS£MIlY
lhl' ..141nl'~""(~'''-' "ruing),
.;\Ot·!·the ~hh'JIoi
01').ju.t rUI th(, bo, in hIJf(I"I\~"h\l,I\") to ~·p.aralt.' lhl lell) fnlm the bcuom C'l'hL"I can b... 11111}l a....l
..\t th,' fliC'k DC a ~wilchmy :\ro,.. )..'lindt_tf
V.,
):ou'f\' hIJnin),!.
or
U1 one
"I, ril. rul~ on .t '.it,1l" ti.M\\ •
nrt on a band saw )
DIAMOND POINT HOLDlR 1)1.&01000,Mllnt tMJln~ rod- ~tr\'\ ('f)' mce (or truin~ Md dr"\":'-~'ng the (aCt' 'I( a grtf!(1 InjC\\ ht'\.'t. HO\li'e\'t:-f. it j~(lifrl('lllll.J mo\,'
1""
thi,.,roci ~trcUJ.!hl~l00lh moliclllllt.·n~ ...~ Ih(, of the !!Iincllng whe~1. I made P .implc little bloek tl>hold Ihl> roct, 'fht· t)I(H:k i~ ju~t a pit-ct· of 2\·1 :oo.('rdll t timmt"Ct (to""" to Z' \Ii'ide. I Nt a I'" nlblllCL tl'l lht.. b.;llum lh fClrm d .. hcJUJI'l·r that nil, .. 1lI:~1 the tOl'11 ...·'1
f"""
V.-,
,.
PIl01HOU
~ ....1'" ,n:,enet! t.hrouRh • h"ll' In th. block Then, to keep it from :hpp)l1~_ I dnlll~1 another hole on top for • ""',n (thr",u"'d) in,;ert and thumb sCI...·W I~(' p.ll~ 12for more on using ft diamond l)
ore••
7
Sha~ening Technigu_es_ • A REPORT FROM THE SHOP
NQ one would deny the necessity of sharp tools - « dull tool just rl,,~,.n't rut it. Yet, th. technique of sharpening seems to escape most of us, I suppose one reason is that "sharp" has an image of perfection. Alm.,1 .barp doesn't work. Absolutely sharp is what we're after ... and that's not easy to attain. The actual process of sharpening a "hisel iM s-impl~'a matter c)fgeometry, \\'hat we want to do is gH two surfaces of the chisel to meet at It singl. point - the cUlting edge, Since this. involve, almost microscopic aceuracy, you r.ally can't see what you're doing. until you're done. In..stead. you have to "feel" your way through the sharpening process, This, o( course. re-quires a certain touch. But, what is "sharp?" As mentloned above, it's. matter of getting iwe surfaees (Ii the ehisel to meet at a single point. The two surfaces involved here are the beveled edge and the face (or nat) ,;ide of the chisel, It seems only natural at this point to launch into. discussion of mnding angle!< and honing angles But no mauerwhat you do to the beveled edge, you can never get a truly sharp chisel unless the fa('(' (Oat) "id~ of the chisel Is smooth first, HONING
THE FACE
The race >;ide of a chisel may look shinv anet nat to the naked eye, b~l locks .,an b. deceiving. Moot new chisel. are actually warped (either convex or concave), This is the result of the manufaclu.illg precess, In order to get a good cutting edge, the steel must be tempered to a certain hardness. Sinee tempering involver.. healing and cooling, it not only change; the molecular structure of the steel so il becomes "hard," it .1;;0 ha.sall effect on the shape of the finished piece - it (O.uall,) warp., If the face of the chisel i~ warped, the final cutting edge ,,'m also take on this
the Slone) b held l(J{)$eiy in my right hand There should be enough pressure on the lip or the chisel !;O if )I'OU were to remove your right hand, the chisel would remain nat on the stone, (Editor'S Note: I'm right-handed. so these instruction. are from that perspective, , To hone the face. just move the chisel over the diamond or coarse J ndiu stone in a baek-and-Iorth motion, As you're honing the face, the trick is to apply aU the pressure straight down, That is, so you don't drive the leading edge oflhe chisel into the stone and create a beveled (or worse, rounded) surface. "a'ou n('le<1()nl~thone enough so there's a flat surface across the full width of the chisel at the very tip (the cutting edge', POI,.ISIIISCTHE "'CE, Since both the diamond or the coar se India stone leave a rough texture, [ switch to a nne /1I4il1 stone first and then to a Arkansas stone to polish the face nlmost gla •• smooth, IIESt'I;I'S,The photo on the lOP shows the results of this flatlening nnd honing operation, The L-shaped area ncar the tip of the chisel is the result of flattening a chisel with a concave warp on the (ace side. Also. you can see how the orig; nal grinding marks have been r,otished to a "",ooth
shape, see Fig, I, Even if the chisel is Oat to begin with, you'd
son
•
FACt fRAt} SlOE
OF
oosa
. .
~,
CONC,tlVi
"_,
a,aCJC
..--
/{tue faee of th» elusel is warped. it To hOIl~ 'i<~lact (fku} 8id" I hl)ld 1I1~ 8''(0,.., grilldillg th. /wo.I, tile "[ron!" b,' flall,,,.d III. full 2 cltiscllQ(RJtly ill my light halld, Theil 3 1 edge beuactly perpendicular 10 K,idl},(It tilt tip, ,1/,0, IIff ,wigi>!,,1gri/ld, I/II~I
0<0'0$8
;1'0 'tlorks ntllsl bt rt",ot'rff (s",oothed,_
8
""'$(
applll
£II""
P"$'"''
dowlI) with Iht lill!I''''
(uh"o.1 .ll'all/lll
the .ide., Mol" the
of !III/Iefl/unlli,
''f>rll s/uff'ly. thmt rJltck Ii'fih
(l
Iql(lre.
WOOOSMITH
•
I •
•
I
between removing enough steel so the eutbnlt edge will act.ually slice through the wood, but not 80 much >0 the tip of th~ ehisel I. too thin (weald to hold up under tho .hock of pounding It into the wO(>a._ up to I", IIo"ert .... gnnd· in~anld.. to 25' to 'b!'. On chlS('l, o'er ). "ide th .. angle can be reduced to t.. little
on the market that allo" you to grind on • flat, rotating stone thaI produ
be\·el. Also, you can get • flat bevel by u.ingone ofthose small bell sander stands. Caution: Although It'. tempting to grind a Oat bevel on the "side" of • grinding wheel, it's not IIgood idea unless the wheel and the grinder are .p<~illeally designed for this type of grinding. ~ second choice - hollow -grindingis ~ natoral ~ult of ennding done on the face (perimeter) 0[ • round grinding wbeel, As the bevel is ground. It take. on LM ohape 0[ the curve of the wheel and becomes concave or hollow·ground, Fig. 4. Okay. let's say you've got an electric grinder, the grinding wheel is dressed and trued (see page 12), and you're ready to hollow·grind a new bevel on your most expensive chisel. ROLLOII'-1:RIXDIl'C. To hollow-grind a bevel on an elecuic grinder. a. To help !leI and keep the angle 1 want, 1 u-e th.· grinding stand arrangement shown on pal!\' 7. (I suppose I.l'zt ';Qt 'll1"C THE 1::\1). So. now you're if you're really good you can free-hand it, ready to grind the clearance angl.. Rut but I'm not Ihal goed.) bvel. There few more pa_<.._ o\'er the wheel and check are (.,.th~r expen....ive) grinding machin<. the angle wilh a protractor. Fig. 6. (I
",tiL
bought this prolractor at Soars. ~\'eral wood"'orkmg catalogs also carry them.) CH£(,"I'G THE PROGRESS. Once you've got the right angle, it's just a matter of lelling the wheel do its job. Grindin~ should be done in a smooth even motion ~ro.~ ~he face (perimeter) of the grinding wheel. After two Or three passes, chl~k the pTOgrI!bS of the grinder marks, and mal go~ too far. The blue color indieates that the tern· per of the .tee! has been -drawn." "'hen steel tUrIIl!a blue color. it h"" son.ened to the point that it will no longer hold a ~harp edge. This over·heating can happen very qUickly,and Ihe culprit is usually "glazinl(' on the wheel. SLOpand dress the wheel to remove all
HOUOW'. ClIOli+<. 1M!
•
l.lld.thf chI'''' across lire whullt'i1h To o.ecuraldy cJ"ck Iltt gnndlng gn"di'
/iI,o/ lII'glr iR ",.."."'N!d [''0111 lip 10 htft. WOODSMITH
" Or~ pass ... dip it in "",'er to cool il.
angl~
til"
bf onywMre[rom!l5'
10 30'.
9
s...e<,11Ie'I the (un part -lIharpeDing the I'e!")' up o( the chi!el to produce a ra:w>" ,harp ('IIttillj;: edge. For me, .harpening!<
hold the chisel 11Ma 101 10 do w;th the analorny or my.."" Simply. an arm milsi>u o( th"", ~or JOIr.!"" ,houldor. 01· nep preeess, hrot. the very' tip of bow, W'\d 'Arbl An.)'movement invol""ing the chISel IS honed to the cutung angle. your arm ""IUITell movement 0[ at least Onl' of ~. Jemu. Then I ·poh.h" Ihls edge to razor oharpness. To m""trale. takt· Mpencil m your band ac-rore gl'tllnlt to the business of angleg. and move it .Irail(hl OUIand atraight back theno art! two thlnJltlto consider: ll""leet· in• horizontal line away (rom and back to ing the right ~tone, 10 R~I the you your body. :-loli.,· thnl you're using two want. and 2) holdll1l( the chisel in such a join!., - the .Ibo" nnd the shoulder (your manner 10 g,·t tht anllie you want. wri.t;' probably locked), 80th Joints must be moving in perfect harmony to keep the TH! STONtS 1,.·nclllrv.I, I(thl·y·n· not. you can see how As far rut the C'holC'Cof :t!;\{)n(':-.is concerned. E'tl...y it ilO to en-at .. 8 1"O<.'kingmotion. I lik~ to us, u fill(' / ndi« and a roft AT· Now move the p<'ncilon• figure It or ina kan..... 1 .UU'I oUI with • fine / ndu: (alu- circle H"ro bot h vour wrist and e!bo" are minum ooddc) non. 10 hone the cutting I""ked and ,.II thi" movement ;,. coming edge, Tben, 1 take It one step further and from your .houldcr - the joml farthest '"poll'Vbytht'Rt ....o ftOne-! fora long time 1 difficult todo withany""nsistency. bul til.: kept buYIng cIiIl'e",nt ston ..... ,,;tdli.ntl: ~ rocking IIl. r..,...k your ·houlder and your wri!;t and r al..., cJ,,,,,,vtred that I kept OOmilll!back move lht I>t'ncil (rom len 10 right b) to the fin" /, diU and the IlOft Arkansa.< ' ....;veling ot your .11><",(Iik" a dog ....ag· .ton •• m",,1o( th~ time. ~. r gave up my King hi~ !.IliIwh~n hI'" happy). PUMlIIIIo(th~ ",K'neCI" stanCIl and decidod Tho. i. Ihe arm motion I like the ~t. I thew two .tone. produce the edllC r want ean lock my wri.t to hold the angle 1want. (and Ihlll'.lh, Whole point o( .harpening). and there', lit III' dllnger of rounding the HOLDING TH( CHISH edge lM!eauM'o( the natural horizontal mO'emenl o( th,· (o....arm P"'OIUlg on Ihe No matt~r "hal ,lone you u.e. the real elbow Joinl. Fill', 7. problem is h"ldlnl( the chi..-el ... you can 1'l.«'."U ''1 ca ~'T(l'&. III addition to 'harp<'lIlt to Ihe an~le) ou WIUlt. There arc IUllItomy.fuur other thinllS ",-.,.rnto help a a 101 o( gwnos on the markel designed to 1!I"t~llll.al y;h('n holllnS!.~ i,...t. I mount the hold ,-hlscls at the proper angle for honing, ~one In abo, that'$ designed ",. it ran bto I\'e trietlaome o(thom, bull alway. go damped to tn~..orkhellCb to k... p it from back to Ih<' hltle j!aCleuatt.acloed to the end .1iu .houlrl hold the chi. sufficient "ton~, Thl'n Ih" chi•• 1 i. moved .Inlight p....""u"' on lh,' lip o( lhe chisel.) forward lind back, or in u figure 8, or in • And finally, I ..,,,m to have more control c;",ular mOllon. over th. mol ion o( my arm i( my head i. ,\).",.0111\ (W ~HARP~'I~(;. The way 1 IDlnost diJ'\"4.:tl\' c,\'('r the stone - so I'm
• t,,,...
rog"
I
,,'hat
61".
"""111..
z-
or
.... ~
looking blnught do...'n on the action. HONING TH( EDG( :-'01' )OU're
ready to bone the cultinl!' edge, Bastcally )OU have t\\O ehcices: you 0t11 Ikonethe
•
14'3)'. the proct."88 1)0\very ""milar,
Sin,,,, I'm ri)(hl·hand,"". I bold the chisel In my rlKht hllnd wllh my right index
ling~r all Ihl' "ay on the til' nf the chisel. Then I rock tlw hollow·~~'Uurldbevel back lind rorth untlll.,lh thl' heet and tip are fia! on lh(' stom-, r~if{~'
I( you want the .uttin~ bevel to be the sam .... the ~","dinll bevel, ju..t leave th< chr-el In lhi.. 1""'llIon and start to hone, This "",de reqlllJ'('$ • tittle more work heCIU$t.'I"o POIDU(Ihe Up and the heel) are bdlll: honed It abo mcaJl.- vou'll ba,. to IlJ'Ind a new be, <,Imuch 5OO;"'r. I like to hone a miero-bevel (or double bevel] al a .bghtly steeper anlt e than the gnndmg To cI.. Ih;.. finol 1«1 both the h.·d anol tlJllirOlI~ on the 'toD~.Tnen nil>" Ih. hl'o'] JU t a omllil(<'n. 11\'e read .)f)U·f\· 1JUI)IHl.~'(1 to raise it !)O, but thal'~
"",.1.
~.rydi(licull to judJ(e. I j\Ult raise II slill'hlly, \\halever fcd, righL) "'ith my liltll' finl("r Dnd ring fin.~er \\TUPI",t!under Ih,· chi....·I. I rai,e the .hi6t:l to th~ anlll" for Ih,' mil"l'O-hevel. Fig, fl. The hancll<'of the ch"clll>ualiy comes up to rt'$t .''llll"t the und.·... loe o( my (orearm (which adn. • lottie m',re .
AIM PlYOI'S At BlOW
n' MOUOW·GIOUHD
For Ih~ mo.t nailirol motion fur 8To h,II" th, h,,'I<,....groll1ld berel. rock All p"" .. "rr .1"J11ld II,,· hp ell Ulli iI' Itl"oll 7 h01""g I" hold the dri8elloosely ,/li.el .",'" .t·, flal on UoP 9 (Jj" th; th,,.tlmy ,.Igilt hOl,d. 11'1111II'ri~tIMkro, 0 lid righl tiP "lid h~fl /} a dOlibit, (micro) arc'. FlllfI"'" IIf "''' r!glll Iw)!d 8!'PPUrl lilt.
Ix; 01'
II
ar"l pil'ntillg al "'II rlbou' ill
III
Q
$","1/ arc.
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1",..1. ra'"
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Iht heet .llghtly
--~~--~---------------
t'fT'!!
"tllt'flff,
IJ/f handt.' Of/tlillSI lilY jOl'f!arm,
WOODSMlTH
•
•
CHICK fO.
little higher than the <"IItMItangle (microbevell 10 make
IIURR
After Wcing610 "OIrokt, on the finel"dia A burr. or ....ire edge. 18 the lI....t IIldicallon that the chisel
t""".
.t"'~,I ch.-.,k (or a burr. l>
Tbe
"hoi. purpo:;e
o(
It or C'OU"..'. u.. n~ a chisse 1 dulls U,.. IKP, and you'..., f"",.,j "'ith the la.>k Ifunl of .harp<'nmlt Ol\('t! again. How••ver, unle$! you UAe the chisel to pry out nails, you" on't have 10re-grind a DC" bevel, IC. u.ultlly ju.t a mauer of touching·up thl' edg,' "ith K few stroke!' on the line /ndla .then poll.hing on the ..,t\ Arksn",,', and .tropping, The whole proee..s can IN.. don.' illlc"AA than two minutes. can
sIw-p,
As ~()U hone. you """,h a point wbere the 1"0 tUMace. o( the ehisel (the microbevel and th" f(lee .ide) meet at a very fine line. \V;lh JUMI• liny bit more boning this lim' actually becomes 100 thin, and starts to 1)(,\·1b(wk and break off - forming the burrur whv ,'dge, \\'hen you (('elttli~burr. 810p- you've flone ru;(ar as you need togo with honing. A. 1 n'moVe the chisel from the slone \0 chPck for Ihe burr, I try 10keep the fingers of my nghl hand 111 exactly the same pesiUGh - moving only my ri~ohlindex finger
•
Tllt>l (,'Il'-
all this .. ark ~ 10 .harpen a chisel so you
CHICI(ING tHI SHARPNESS
Nil" you have • .....,r.oJ1arp ehisel, Well, maybe ~es, maybe no. Th.re are a couple of way. to I.'r', rou~" on il to give it a little graJn UI ra!:l(l'd, the chloel ;,. .!lOply Dol :Bomtoremalnlng rra~~n\~ oyer to the mo.... "bit...• ~ roul!" ba:o jlk'" enough sharp enough to alire lhrouirll the fibers o( be,.1 side. "e~fme abruIve m It \0 put an extremely the .. 000. it'. JOAI karinlt tbt:m. So it. back 10 the .tOIll'1lto get it rea1Iy sharp. fine ...Jge on the ~hloeJ. POLISHING tHE MICRO-BEVIL F'iDI, I hvld lhe face (flat) :lide of the I( the ,uMacc t. fairly 6Illoolh but there HOninJ,rona nnp I"d,a .lone will product'. t have 10 fcod~our ".Y \0 il Polishmg on a lOft Arkan""" stone .hould take only a f... strok es. Then check [or the .. Ire edge. I( you (et'l one. Slop. That', ... (ar a.. you have 10 go. :-<0w, remo\ ~ the \\1re edl(C as before.
,
•
/
•
1~t'l .~h~11l14IlwfJb/t" To''''/or /111" ( .. , .... edge), 10$' th. 1'0 ",II"n tI,. la.l/ragment. a.f Ihe lO 11 12 ·}I
II'hell 1I0t~ftpl "" rl't I' b,Jrr. Ille h()1Iil1g 1a dO/le.
WOOOSMIIII
(/li8CI 011 Ifalh~r pod
.,,'" ""/H,
"'(1)";.
.! Ol'.t ,"n>k~
'aell
81d, aTC needed,
91'(1111
"'ill /xl a.
IX
:clirf I/OU'/I (I" II·tll,Iland pres1I·1I1J/sha,.", 111£~nd
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II)
n,' 91u8$,
II
Sho~ Notes --------------------------
•
SOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP
11\the previous articles in this issue, I've mentioned most or the equipment we use to sharpen chisel>; in our shop, But I thought J'rl take thi$ chance to !rive" summary or the wheels and .lone, we use and how we keep them in shape.
tools to dress or O'Uea grinding wheel. yeu should wear eye goggle~ and a face mask. Sources for all of these tool. are li.ten in the Ias t section oi the interview with the
GRINDING WHEELS
It WMIl't until we talked 10 the people at the N anon Co. that I learned how much difference there is between one glindin!! wheel and another. '!'hey suggested we try 1l60-):ril.\'0I11t" :12A (aluminum oxide) glindinp; wheel 10 sharpen chisels, So we gol one and I lOtilerl it out. Aft",· l1'inding only one chisel I quickly discovered that the Norton wheel seem. toeut Igl'lIldHhe steel mucb easier. and il CUI. much. much cooler. In fact. if" almost imllOs,-ibleto -burn" t h. chisel -
A few years ago I bought a St'llI'8 grinder
(on 'me. of course) to sharpen some of my chisels, When I finally !(Ot up cnough courage to use it, I wound up with (rayed nerve •. blue-tipped chisels. and an expanded vocabulary. The pmbl"m. I thought, must be the motor. At 1725 RP\I the motor ~impl~' turns the jlTinninj{ wheel lOO fl'l:!"t. and in the process burns up m:,+'chisels, A very gentle touch must he required. I reasoned, Sull I had problems. 11:0 matter how careful or how !(entle I was. the end of the chisel quickly hurned (turned blue). After a liltle experimenting, I Iinally discovered lh. I'('ill culprit, The OO-gril all-purpose glinding wheel that came \11th the SOOI'S grindcr 11'"" "glazing" "CIT quickly. When a steel chisel ;,. pushed against a ):rinclinj( wheel. liny particles of .leel are chipped off, Som~ of these panietes are hot enuugh to bUI'" (the sparks), But olher I'~l'ticle" heeeme embedcled in the surface of the glinuing wheel, A. the wheel fills with these particle g , il becomes "j!lazed:' \\'h~n a grinding' wheel L< Itlaz.ed, the chi..... el no longer comes in contact with as Juan,:.' of the abrasive particles in the wheel, Iustead. you get steel-to-steel frietioll. This friction can generate a lot of heat. quickly. And results in burning the till ofth~ chisel. To wive this problem. the ghl7)ng must be removed. This is where rlre~~~ sticksenter the scene, l)l(t:s.~I~CSTICKS.These sticks are siliL'Oncarbide blocks used 10clean the glazinj! off grillding If you u;:" an all-
Norum Co.. page 6. THE RIGHT WHUL
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wheel doesn't "glaze-
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because it's designed to "break away" as The old-fasbioned way of doing this is you're grinding lmrd steel. This in ilself with a truing wheel. sometimes called a elimiJUlte.9O':1-of the problems of th. all"star wheel." ihis. is JUSt a heavy iron PUI'J)()"e wheel. handle with several steel cutters (I'stars") \V" also tested two other wheels: a Sur· that chip off the perimete r of the wheel (0)1 6O-):rit ~A, and a 6O-grit aluminum (shown in middle in phou». oxide wheel from lI'wderajl l:iupply (CaL A star wheel is nice to use (in some ways) :-<0. 11N21-0\V. S2Q.()()ppd) made by Bay because il both trues and dresses the SInh' Ahra .•i ,·CS. Roth of these wheels are made of • very high grade (almost pure ~inding wheel at the same lime (thus white) aluminum oxide. and both are exceleliminating the need for a dressing stick). But I always feel a tittle nervous when lent for grinding chisels. The major drawu$ing a star wheel because it makes sueh a back to all these wheels is their COSl:about $20 to sao each, horrible sound. Of the three wheels WI! tried, I tended 10 Before we got the diamond Jlointdresser (discu.q"ed below). I used a d!'e$$ing stiek pI'f·f~l·the 1\'"rl(}11 &lA (38A.(,().J-!).VRE). most ofthe lime to keep the ):rindingwheel It seemed to j1ive a finer cut (producing clean. and resorted to the SIal' wheel only smoother grinder marks), and W3$ simply pun- joy to use, when il was absolutely necessary. l'IA.\IOSU POCXT DRF.S,"iJo_;R.The modern THE S~ONES WE USE replacement ror the star wheel is a diamond point dr_ing rod. This is a steel rod \\'hen you get down to the real nitty-gritly with an induoLriai diamond mounted in the of sharpening - the U!tar wheel. it dress<.-s and trues the wheel dO\"n to man·ma(le or Jtatural stones. worth its weight in gold. The drll$,ing There may he a tendency here to think of stick I u.. is a 1",1" block aboul 6" long in the same operation. Since it'. velT difficult to move the rod manufactured (man-made) Slones as "imi(.hown on 'ij!hl in photo). All you have to do is press the end uflhe across the faC(!of th(>wheel in a "mooth tations-" and in some \\'ay inferior to Slick ag-.in"t the ):rinding wheel (as it'. even molion, the rod should be mounled in naturm .tones. That .. nOltrue. BOlh lY~ lurning) and scrape away all the glazing !so much lrouble. - shown on page 7. One or two tight passes acrOss the face of the wht-el should ravorites are: Il a NOl1011 combination WHEEl, UKESSf:1\. After lhe glazinj!' is slone. 2) a soft. Arkansas stone, and 3) a remo"ed Ivith • dreSl!ing stick. the face clean it up very nicely. Howeve,', one thing is importanl here. omall diamond stone. (p4!rim~ler) of lhe wheel .hould be trued. For about 9(J
•
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12
\VOODSMITH
•
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SORTOSSTOSES. As far 8. bench stones
concerned. you have two basic choices; aluminum oxide and silicon carbide. Since most of these stones are matte b~' the Nor· ton Co .• Iheire usually called by their trade names: India (aluminum oxide' and 'ry.llJlyn (silicon carbide), Both types come in three grits (fine, medium and coarse), as well as a \'arict~' or shapes and sizes. ')'he one I use the most is a 2'"xS" I "diD (aluminum oxide) combination: finc on one side and coarse on the otber. This eombinaticn stone offers the most f01' )'OU1' mane)'. and "he most flexibility. SOFT ARKASS.o\.S. To gel. Iruly keen edge on a chisel, Arkansas stones are the one- to use, These stones are aclually chunks of novaculite quarried from a ''llnge near Hot Spring>. Arkan sas. They come in four grades (gril»: \Vashita. soft, hard, lind black hard (01' surgical), The solt Arkansas is the one I use the most. It's a good finishing stone and will JUIa very keen ed~ on "chi!;(,l- an edge that will hold up under use. I can't really see much point to using the hard or black hard Arkansas stones unless you're sharpIre
CARING FOR AND CLEANING STONES
No mauer \\ hat kind ofstone you have, it's
an investment that needs some care and
sneution from time to time. The kindCllt thing you can do ror either the iVo)1nn or Arkansas stOJ'PS is use some kind of lubricant 10 carf~' awn)' the fine particles of steel created during honing. A lot of woodworkers come up with their 0\\'11 concoctions (or use on 3 stone. I jU$l use Norun oil (mostly because it comes ill 3 handy little squirt can). As you use a stone, you'll see Ih~ oil tum black 8$ it picks up tiny fragments of steel from the chisel. Some of these fragment' remain suspended in the oil That'$ good. The dirty oil can simply be wiped away. However, some of these particlCl>filter down into the pores or the stone. and it becomes glazed just like a grinding wheel, That's bad. Once the stone becomes glazed, yOII might as well be waving the chbelliu'OlIgh thin air because the g1azinjr (steel partieles) prevent the chisel from coming in contact with the abrasive particle s, A 10l of this glaring problem CAJl he prevented by applying enough oil as you're clling c:ar"ing tools. IlIA~,i)SII ST()Sf:S. Just a couple or years honjng~ and wiping it 00" as soon as it a.go a new killft .'stoll,C" came on the becomes black (filled with steel particles). ("L&ANING $1'OS£:1. Alter some amount market; a diamond SLOne.These stones have a hard plastic base to which a nickel of use, you'll probably notice the stone plate is bonded. The nickel pia te is im- becoming dark gre~'or black as more and more steel partie!es filler through the oil pregnated with diamond dust, To be honest, l've ju.t SIruted to use and imbed themselves in the pores or the SLOne.Two things ''lUI be done to clean it. these stones. But my initial reaction is that One of the easiest ways to dean a stone they're going to be a very good addilion to is lillnply to apply a little oil lind rub the the MOp. Diamond stone. have twO hi!! advan- sun ace with your finger lips. This light 11l!(eS over the other (traditional) SLOnes scrubbing \\ill pick up B lot of steel partimentioned abo"e. First, they're nat and cles, which then can be \\iped away. After I give 3 stone a preUy good work· they .tay flat (which mak~ them nice for ilallelling the backs of ehisels and plllJ1e OUI,I scn.b the surface with a mild soap (dish delergent) and a small ,,;re (bras .•) )·ons). Second. they don't clog up or 'glaze" like the other stone. - jusl wa.~h brush. The soap cleans ofr Ihe oil and any dust lhat's settled in the PO',!>'" of the stOne. them off with a little W31er and lhey're The wire brush helps dean orf some or the ready to go again. larger steel particles stuek to the surface or There are also two disadvantages. First. the slone. it .hould be no sw"ri.e that diamond ,!.Ones are a liltle on the expensive .ide: t'L.\1Tt:N'SC: A S1'OIrdireCt rrom the manufsclur&r: Dia- suggested (lapping the stone 011 n .Ieel mond )lachining Technology. Inc., 34 plate \\~th silicon carbide slun'Y) sounds 'row~r St .. Hudson, ~IA 01749. (Send the Iiltagc and handling. a good. nat. $l1loothiron plaw. Also, includ. grit ";te: fine or t'Oan;e.) As a "stop-gap" measure, one method l:l>Il'OK'SSOTE. IV.'re going to keep we have tried is to lap lhe stone on a $heet working \\ith these diamond stones and ofsandpaper. I use asheet or50-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper "gluoo" LOa pieee or giv~ a more complete report in a future plate gla..s with some spray 3
After using the 5u-,,'li1 sandpaper. I Inp the stone on a sheet uf IntJ-ll1it .ilk·on carbide paper 10 smooth out some of the coarseness the 50-grit paper Ieaves. This method won't work on • blldlv
dished stone. but it (tOt~help removesom~ min-or scratches WId dishing. However, it doe...a good job of removing some of the "glazing" and most of th•• t... l pa.1irJ,,,, Ihat are smashed into the surface or the
Slone. ROUTING CIRCUS
Oceasionally, we do things other than sharpen chisels. The main 1»)"ojerL in this issue is a buffet table wilh two half·cird. leaves. One of the- ea....ie~t ways to c'tit a large circle for a tabletop like this is with II router and trammel poim auaebmcm. A few months agu \\'4: pU.'\·I\Il....erl WI,"' fl( the new Srar« edge guid", (which h.., a trammel point attachment). It's 3 nice liltle gizmo, bUI il won'! roul circles be~'()nrl24"in diameter. So. we had to make a smoll modification on it. WlrotG NUl AND
WASHta CUI STII' to mGJI;OOvt
._ As shown in the dru\\;ng
above. we simply added a long ~lrij) of wood 1<. fit in the channel of the S<,(H" C(ll(eguide. This strip is fastened to the edge guide with. nat-he.,rl stove boll. With the, additi(,nJlI arm, yO\1can rout a circle of almost un· limited diamel ••·. MeAliER'S Til' If you ha\'e the oldcr vcr· .ion of the Sew'll trammel point :ltlllCh· menl. we I'3n a tip rrom a reader for mod· ifyingit to rout large ch-eles U1 1\"Hwlsmi,h No. 19. Th6 invoh'ed using IwO aG--long !!\ee! to replace the original",.u; th.t oome \\ith the attachment.
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base or your router. Then remove the plas· lie ba.... and usc it wa.•• template LOm&l'k the mounting holes and center collet hole on the plywood ~trip. Along lhe "pan-handle" drill n hole at the radius you need for the circle, and use a finishing nail as a ph'ot point for this trammel jig.
13
Buffet Table
•
A TABLEWITH SIX LEGS Versatility ... that's the key to this buffet table. When both leaves are down. this table is less than 14" wide - narrow enough to (it in any hallway. And with both leaves up it prevides enough space (or all the dishes of a Thank.sgiling dinner. This buffet table i. actually a modifica· tion of a gate-leg table. On a typical gateleg table, an entire leg unit swings OUtto support tho lea ve•. But we designed this table with leg WliLS that pivot from the center of the aprons - on wooden hinges, no tes s. The table shown hero ;" made of cherry - solid cherry for the legs and np''Ons, cherry plywood for the top. Basically. the construetion procedure can be broken down into two (large) steps: the base and the top, I started with the base (legs). THE SIX LEGS
Mo;;ttable. have four lega ... this one has six, two of which are moveable. Before we get into cutting the joints for the legs and aprons, it helps to know how these six lega work. The three drawings below show the two kinds of leg arrangements we're dealing with. ~'igure I shows one of the doubl.... thick leK" that are at ,\\'0 comers of the table. Figure 2 shows the split legs at the other two corners: an inside leg that's stationary, and an outi;id< ;eg that's moveable (itswinll'! open to support the lea!). Figure 3 shows the pivoting action of the s\\~ng lell'! ph'otinl( on the .plit apron. Lfall of this look.,confusing, don't worry, it gets worse. In order to make the six legs for this table. start with eight pieces cut from 0/. stock (lV,' thick actual). 2V' wide and 29" long to begin with. THEnOUBt.e LEGS.Two of these rough slicks are glued togelher to fonn a solid double leg. You need two leK" like this. Onceth~g1ue is dry, trim (rip) these le,lr,'to
the Iinal dimensions o( 21'," square by 28~' long. Now you have to CUla whole series of mortises on the inside two faces of the legs. ('1'0 avoid confusion, I marked the inside faces with X. and wrote "top" and "bot· lom" on each leg.) \10RTIS£SO~ OOl'BI..EJ..£Gs'Starting at the top of the double legs (refer to Fig. 4a). there are two sets of twin mortises for the drawer rails (above and below the drawers). These are aU ~" wide and 10:' deep, with a 'Yo" shoulder between them. (The shaded are" Onthe drawing indicates the position of the rail when it's anaehed.) On the other face of the double leg there'. a single mortise. stighUy off center ooule 2
flGUle 1
(to the for the full-length inside apron. (This mortise is alI center to allow room for the hinge apron. To get all idea of hoI" all this nts together, see I··ig. I.) The mortise. on the bottom ends of the two double legs are very similar - twin mortises on one face and 3 single (off eentor) mortise on t&c other face, fig. 5a. spur LEGs' No" there are (our more legs to cut: two stationary legs and two swing legs. (Refer to Fig. 2.) These legs start out 1v,." x 2V." • 2SY•. The mortises on the two stationary legs are cut in exaetly the same position as those on the double legs, see Figs, 4. and 5e. The swing legs are even easier, there's only one mortise at the top and one at the
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WOOOSMlTH
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bottom, f'igs. 4b and Sb.
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After all the mortises are cut on all six legs, 1clIamfered orr the outside edges, and CUtv.grooves down the center, see Fig. 8. CHAlIFEIUNG
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SWING APRONS
•
At this point you should have something that looks like a base for a table-s- four legs joined with aprons. stretchers, and rails, Allthat's mi!sing are the split aprons that join lhe swing legs to the rest of the table. The split aprons are literally split in half. One half of this apron (the fixed half) is glued to the face of the solid apron. The second (swing) halfisjoined to the first half with a knuclde (hingel joint. and then, at the oth •.r end, it's joined to the swing leg with a 1".longtenon, Fig. 10, This second WOODS}.{JTH
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THE APRONS AND STRETCHERS
These legs arejoined with" wholebunch of aprons, stretchers and rails - some of which are full- length, someare split. Refer to Figure 3 again. A ful1.1engthapron is used to join one ofthe double-trucklegs to one of the single stationary legs. Then there's a sptit (hinged) apron glued to the !'rontof this full.length apron. The easiest way to go about cutting these aprons is to work on only the full·length pieces first. AYRONS "'''D STRETCHERS .. There are two full-lengtb aprons at the top of the legs. (These are the "inside" aprons sbown inFig. 3.l Each apron has 1".longtenons at both end. and a shoulder to shoulder measureme.ntof 21w.", F'ig. Sa. At the bottom of each leg there are full· length stre~. These stretchers must have the s3llllo..sboulder La shoulder measurement as the solid aprons, but the tenons are only W' long, Fig. Sc. All the edges of these stretchers are chamfered jusllike the legs. Fig. 9. Once the full-length aprons and stretchers are finished, you can start gll1ing things together to form two "frames," Each frame consists ofone double leg, one sin!(le stationary leg. one full-length apron. and one full-length stretcher, ""e'n ignore the split aprons and stretchers for now and move on to the rails. mE RAIlS. Now you need four drawer raiL'I-to fil above and belowthe drawers at both ends or the table, All four drawer .-dils are the same: !WI" shoulder to shoulder. with Y,"·longtwin tenons, fig. 7a, Belowthese drawer rails (at the bottom of the legs) are two deuble-t hick stretchers. Both of these stretchers are glued up - twO pieces thick (just like the doublelegs). They're also joined to the legs with twin tenons, Fig. 7b. \'/hen the four rails and two stretchers are cut, they're used to join together the two "frame" assemblies. However, don't glue them together yet, JUStdry-assembte everything.
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of the tenon to tbe end (this is half the length of the full·length apron shown in Fig. 3). This same madness is duplicated in the stretch ers at the bottom of the legs. HL"G£JOL'''. Once the two halves of this apron are cut to rough length, the hinge joint tan be made. This joint is kind of a hassle, but kind of fun too. It starts out as a modified box joint, Fig. ll. Then, to make this joint function as a hinge. the recesses are beveled to 45·, (by hand with a sharp chisel), and the "tongue" on tbe swing apron is rounded Over slightly, Fig. 12. To finish this hinge, holes must b. driUed for the pins. I clamped the two halves together (wuh a Jorge,UIe'I' band screw) and drilled a Y," hole l~' deep at the center point of each joint. ~'jg. 13. 1I01!!>'T11'
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A long time ago we were talking about two "frame" assemblies that were only dry. assembled. Before the drawer rails can be glued in. the drawer runners should be mounted. The runner on the top edge of the apron prevents the drawer from tipping down as it's opened, and also serves as a cleat to screw on the table's top. The runner on the bottom should be rabbeted to fill in the gap between the leg and apron, Fig. H. The two "frames" can now be joined by gluing in the four drawer rails and the two bottom stretchers. At last, the base is complete, .. except for the draw era. THE ORAWERS. The two drawers are fairly easy to make. To gets good litin the openings at both ends of the table, I worked from the actual measurements of these openings. I cut the drawer fronts to lit Light between the legs, and .bou( y,." less than the (up and down) measurement between lbe rails. Then the sides and boltom are cut to lit the dimensions of lbe drawer front, Fig. 15. The drawer sides arejoined to Lhefront and back with a half· blind rabbet and groove joint. (See ~Vood8»lithNo. 18 for step-by-step on cutting this joint.) After the drawers are assembled, r planed down the sides (just a smidgen) so they fit with minimal clearance in the openings. WOODSMlTH
•
•
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THETABU TOP AIthough the table's lop can be made of glued·up pieces of solid wood, I opted for an easier approach - 0/." cherry plywood. The LOpis sized so it can be cut from a 4' ,4' (half) sheet of plywood. The top eousists of three pieces: a center piece that is attached to the base. and two half·eirele leaves. Since I wanted to retain the original grain pattern of the plywood when the leaves are up, I cut the 12··wide center piece out of the n,iddle of the half· sheet of plywood. Fill'. 16. UAI..~.(;IRCLE LE."'ES. To be certain the two half-circle leaves would be exactly the same. I joined the two remaining pieces of plywood and CUt one continuous circle. To do this. a V,'·wide filler strip is inserted between the two pieces of plywood. Then all three pieces are t,.cked together (on the bottom side) with a piece of scrap Vo'plywood, Fig, 17. Nowall!rgecircleean be cut with a router and the trammel attachment. (Our version of this trammel atta~nt is shown on page 13.) Ho 'er, before cutting' out the circle, I routed 8 Y,·\\ide groove around the perimeter of the table top fm' an inlay piece, Fig. 18. This groove has a radius of 16%'. Now the trammel attachment can be realigned to cut the outside perimeter of the table top. The radius here is 17". I used a ..... carbide-tipped straight bit to rout this cirele, making several passes, Y. 10 "r deep each time. ~'ig. 19. Once the two half-circles are cut, place the center piece between them and trim both ends to match the diameter of the circle. Then rout the v,,' groove for the inlay piece •• 'igs. 20 and 21. II'II~\Y PI~CE.The inlay piece adds a nice (almost elegant) touch to the LOp.ann it's easier to Insert than it might seem. All I did is rip an yo·thick strip of walnut 60" lonl( and tapped it into the groove (apl)ly glue in the groove fil'Sl). This strip Is thin enough (and the radius large enough) SO you don't have to steam it to gel it to bend.
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fiNISHING UP The leaves are attached to the center piece with two 30··long continuous hinges. These hing"" are mortlsed in to allow clearanee for the swing legs. I routed the hinge mortises with an edge guide attachment on 8 I'OUWr, stepping' the mortise>; 2" from each end, Fig. 22. Then chamfer the bottom edges 10 prevent binding, Fig. 23. FL'IISUISG.We used HCTpe's Tung Oil Varnish to linish this table. This oil finish has just enough varnish to pl'otect the table LOp,yet it can be applied with the ease of any oil finish. After applying three coats, Ig&,'e it a coat of Rf""aisllance wax (available from \Voodcraft Supply). This will yield a beautiful satin finish, suitable for any table.
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A _bIe 1.011'(4) 8 Spill I.ojr. (e) e Ap.... (2)
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0 Swrng Ap.... (2) E 51........... (2) f SwIng Sire.. "', (2) 0 Double Slftlch.r (4) H 0..._ Roils (e) I Orowu Front (2) J Draw.r Sid., (4) IC Draw., &odu (2) t Plywood Top
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Router Table
When we decided to build this router table. we had th,,·,· thin~ in mind: I) we wanted to d•• i"", il with a "low profile" - not like the "store-bough;" models that are much 100 hIgh to work on. 2) it had to be ea.'y to clamp to the ,'CIj(e of a workbench "ith frt.t. a.:«". to th. router for changing bas and toadju.tthl'hell(ht. and3lit had to be easy to ~tOI'\'wlth"ut takinK up much room. After we finally Il"t It boilt and I had a chaocl' to "ork ",th It. I'd have to say that thi, """.,"'top model I.even better than tll<>!IoorIII
The table top created more problems for us than any other part of the router table. W. tried u.inj( a p'l'Ce of kitchen counter (par, ucle board witb a f'O"'III'rfllOp). It seemed like n good id,·a. but lh~ particle board kept warping. Th~n we switched to '1'<" fir plywood laminated WIth 'I," Ma~onite.And to our amllU'menl. it actually .tayed flat. 'Ve d•• il!Tll'" the table top "0 that it eould II<> rut out of 2'x4' pieces of 0/," plywood and Y,".110."",1;. The first step is to rut a 21" x 30 PIece OIIt of boll> thE' plywood and the .II(UQ""~ for the (Bble top. Th~n I lam,nated these two pieces together U "'lng rontact eement.
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FOil THE ROUTER
Because thi, lamInated top is • fun '", thick, you won't be able to raJse the bit above th e s urfaee if the router were attached as it i. 1I0W. So. we had to rout a large "eeuntersink" on bottom of the table for the roUl(!r, 1'F:RI~lt:TEN C;Roovt:, To rOut out this
18
countersink, I he ftl'!lt step is to mark a point 011 the und.n
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These h"le~ are I" from the front and back edges, and «'nWl'\'d 1'1''- (rom the outside edge". Arter drilling the holes. rout a slot bet ween Ihc hoi es. using' a fence clamped to th(' top All a guide, see Fig. 5.
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MOUNTING
THl ROUTER
To \'j,.uali7", ho\\ Ih., rouler ;,. attached, think of the table 101'II<' an elaborate versien (lr the l,laI.ltC'ba.~on the router. To mount the routtr, I removed the plasue base and it "" a template to mark the location of th. mounung hoi.". f'ir>ue on the top of the table. ~ntel'l~1 over the 1h' ""Ie. Then I rotated the base so "hen the router;' attached the"'!', ca.'y pcc,'" to chanlle bits and anjust the heillht, All.er marking theloeauo» of the holes, I drilled cOllntcn
•
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THE SUPPORT FRAME
ing the bit' .' "ith sueeessive passes until I reached a depth of '. f'E'('F. GllllF. SUI'I'S Later, when the fen~;' made. it i.held 10the router table wnh two bolt. that extend through slots cut In the table top. To make these slots. first driU four Y'- holc~ to mark the start· inKand "topping IlOint. of the olots. Fig. 5.
The next ~Parms have a 't.-·"id'·I(roD\e down tIK: middle to allow tlnran<'~for lh,· bolts used to attach the fe...... "". o.,t",1 in F,it. 6. \\'11,." &tta tablo' tal'. align tIK: back edge of the arm' with the back .-..Illcof the table. Then eountersmk No, s x :!" flat-head screw. on bolh "idc~ of th(' fence guide slot. To kM'pthptnbl(, top from 'inking in the middle. 1 add"d " 2x2 cross support. Simply cutlh.:!xl! to fil tight between the dUpport ann. and gille and .. rew it to the
\VOOOS~IlTH
•
•
table top tcountersinking' the screws), FinaUy. two elJ1Jl\ping "wing>;" are cut from some of the scrap "'. plywood !left over from the top) and screwed and glued to the bottom of the suppon arm s, To fini$h off the top I added pine strips around the edges to prevent the .11asm,it< from being chipped.
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wing
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tightened. ROUTER CllARI>. \\'hen router bits with pilots ate used (or "free- hand" routing, it's best to make a guard to fit over the bit. The guard I made is simply a piece ofscrap with a piece of plastic on top, Fig. 7. This guard mounts to the table top by means of two dowel pins on the bottom which male
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\\1th holes in the table top, F'NISHISG.After the router table was completed. we finished it with IValfo Danisll Oil to protect the Masonite.
30"
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THE fENCE
The fence is made of three pieces of .y, plywood laminated together. 1 used plywood because it has less tendency to warp or twist than solid wood. To make the fence, rip lhree pieees of plywood 3' wide, 30" long. At both end. of one piece drill a series of v.' holes to form a 2'-long slot, Fig. 6, Then trim the other two pieces to 24' in length and glue them to the bottom piece, After the glue bas set, trim the front and back faces ofthi$ fence on the table saw so these faces are absolutely perpendicular to the table top. It's also helpful to chamfer the bottom I"fg
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19
Wall Shelf
•
SLIDING DOVETAIL TONGUE & GROOVE When Ted suggested that we make a wall hanging book shelf'jolned with dovetails, I had vision" of laboring over hand-cut dovetails for some kind of offbeat project, After Sl>eingthe design he came up with, [ \\ as pleasantly surprised. The most intriguing thing about this book sh~lfis thM the entire thing i. 8..sse mbled without a single drop of glue. The trick? A dovetail tongue and groove. This joint allows you to assemble and adjust the shelf unit just by sliding lb~ pieces together. The book shelf consists of only three ha...
The wall brackets are very similar to the metal "store- bought" kind - except, in this case, they're made of "Y••"-thiek oak. Ba.
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II.
10
• SHELF SUPPORTS
THE SHELVES AND PEGS
The shelves are supported by two supports which have dovetail tongues lbat mate "'ith the dovetail grooves in the wall bracket, This produces 1I sliding joint that makes it easy to adjust the height of the shelves, yet offers sturdy support. I found that the easiest way to cut the six shelf supports is to use a plywood tamplate. First, cut the plywood to the shape of the support, Fig. 2. Then CUt three pieces of stock to 3· x 12" and use the template to trace the outline o( two "helf supports on each of these piece•. The next step is to drill a :y,' alignment hole in the top edge of each support. This ~ole ,,;U later accept. peg which will prevent the shelf from racking, Fig. 2. Now the dovetail LOnguecan be CUton the back edge of each support. Using the groove in the wall bracket a. a guide, cut the tongue so that it slides easily in the groove. (Sec page 22.)
The shelves are designed to be cut from (I IxlO (see Cutting Diagram). but they can be cut and glued up from narrower 81;];ps, The final dimensions of the shelves are 9" x 31)".After the shelves have been cut to size and planed fiat, 1cut aU four comers to a 2"
radius. TIlE I'E!.:S. Together
with the dovetail tongue and woo"e, the whole unit is held in place ,,;th three sets of pegs. The first. set is used as stops under the shelf brackets to prevent them from slipping down the waU brackets, The other two SCIO of alignment pegs are US<'d on the shelves to prevent racking. srors, The shelf support stops are'll," dowels, %"IQng. TI) make it easier to grip the SLOPS when adjusting t.he shelves, I formed a knob on the end of the stops by chucking them into a drill and filing a V. groove about ¥.\' from the end. Sec Detail A in ~'ig. 2. WOODSMITH
•
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'U(;~)1gSTPEGS.1'wOmore sets of pegs
are attached to the shelves to prevent niCking. Thll Iirs"! set is attached to the back ''()IWof the shelves so they lock into the dovetail groove, see Figure 3. T. position the holes for tb ese peg><, measure in 6' from each end of the shelve. (thi.> makes the holes 24" apart), and drill two Yo" holes. "," deep. Then glue in "long pegs so they lock into the dovetail groove. The second sct of pel(» fit in the holes in the shelf supports and lock into hole.; in the bottom of the shelves. Tu a1il.'llthese holes on the bcnom of the
is cut. the same way brackets.
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fINISHING 1rounded over the edges of all oi the pieees on a router table \\;lh a earner round bit. Then I finished this book .helf with two roal" of II'o/co Dollish Oil. (An oil JinJl;h ;,. best on this project because it won't dolt up in the dovetail grooves.) Afte,. the nil was dry. I applied a light eoat of p.FI~ "-ax 10the .houldcrs of the do" .. tail tortJ.."It!~ ~o the)' slide easily.
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BOOK ENDS
The bigge"t hassle with book shelves is finding a war to keep the book. from fallin~ over. This is where the dovetail tongue and groove joint really ecmes through. A dovetail Longue is
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Dovetail Tongue & Groove • THE NO-GLUE JOINT 1\ c'", uO<'<1a TOO\e will be cut, The joint un t '\'0 ,)roJl"("t~in thi~ i.....sue, the ri~pth or thl' cut should be just a little bit 1>... -,,,1bewlrd.J1(lth~ wall ,helf, The bread 1,> ss lh,on Ih~ flnbhed depth o( the dovetail board I' n $(J(,u example of one of the best groove, ~l'\t~'ig,I. a,,~licati"n. of thi. joint: attaching end Now r('1'13«' lh" V..• lmight bit \lith a ('81). ... to n bt,.lnl. ~. dnveW\iI bil, and ""I the depth of cut (or ri(·('au~L~elr thl' mechanical strength of t he. dovetail grt)()\'P, tht: tJo\'j'lail l(,nJ(\,lt·and gron\'t" joint. an Th(' I".. ition IIf lh,· groove can either be end ""I' can ",. )OlllP made by first of th(' pi...,. that i. al(lllll.'l the renee on t"Ultin!{the ,1(J\'ct.lulPOO\'f' (this S!"OO\'C' i"J each ""'...., Fi~, Z and ~, cut in th~ .nd rap of the bread board, for IH)\r.T,'II, TO'Glll. To cut the dovetail e'8ml'lI') '1111-nIh" dovetail tongue i>cut tonl(l1e, k'·.I> th(' dovetai! bit set to the same "epth '('!ling and adju.t the fence so to fil Ihl' IN.\ f:T\ll. (:I(()()\ ..;. Siuee the dovetail thai Ih(' bit barely culll into the edge of. woov,· mu_t tw made wilh only one depth lrial piece (be Rure lhal it'. exactly the :O-('ltlng(Il l'lt"n"t btl matlp h)' t'nif:.ing thE" "am~ thickn •• , of the aclual pieee), Then bit until th"fj,,,,h d('pth i.reached. a,
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procedure, ~,inf( the actual workpiece, Now move the (fner a little closer to the blad,', Thi. I. whc~' " little patience pay. off Each tim" the f,'nce is at'ijusted, make a trial cut on the ~rap piece and cheek il wuh the groove to be sure that you won't be cutting orr too much of the tongue with the new I-I'tllng, (Remember. each time the fenee Is '"0\'1'<1, you'll actually be doubling lhe amount of material being remo\'1'<1"""'UM' lhe CUI» are made On both .i hl'lpt'ulto apply a little wax on the tOlll(Ueto help it .Iirl" into tho groove of the end CIt,.. , Even with the wax on the IOnl(l1e,th. end Clip may need 10 be lapped on wilh II mallet In mOllt eruw~ thl~ joint i. nol glued Instead, 1I ~, duwel pin i. inserted front either the top or from the &ideof the joint • to lock It III pIaN', (I,'.ure that the dowel is long enough to (>!mctrate throul1h both the ton!IU" and the JmjOve, tOUt .... '0 .......
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tongue (nn the trial piece) ",th the dovetail groo\'~,lfiti.n't too small, repeal the same
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groo,-~is fir"",,,, ",illl n'l•• II'Ulgitt billa tI.. f< i" so po.~i· 1no,,' 2 110", '" ploft, 3TI'k"fll."lIrtlll,allh,' t't i",1 llor~,"slmighl bit ,,:ill> ,lima alld bil sfttings the Kffpi>11/
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is (ul tht actual Rrt-rnr arid "'IlU allolher 5 6Aftff p,ert, r/,t('k Ilfar fil I"itillMgrom;e, If 1"',", rhrckllIg il"'il1l thcgroov.'o ue i{loo >IIuchhasbet" I'rmoved,Then repeal ,htlollgur'.,oo 4 Ihe .crap
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'U_alkingShop AN OPEN FORUM
-----------------------rark'HfJ UNifORM HINGES
1',1Ilkl' to Ihar. some lil'llt hand information on the hln!!'" for the butter's IrdY table shown in l\'olXl~lIIi111Number 1,1. I hove purchtu<",1 lhl' hing •• from almost cvervene I can loeste who ,lOCk. them, and most of them.....irre~. just like the ones you had to custom iiI in
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Th<~-re uniform in
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made Crom one lunge "orkK Ior all th..
I\lnlres, 'The round odgc hin~- ~ brass platod st ... 1that h... been antiqued, Tb"y're much better 10okl"1r than an) "fth. other hinges I tried, and their mev ement was very ea.'>, Som« or the hinges from other firms n.-q'lirt'tI,)li~'r.. tel t"N..•up the mechanisms!
'l'ht' (J611&1 11'I(1!110 II! I lip 101' C'~lttillg i, tu f(~r flit Jig thor U'(J~ :l/fOf(t/t ;"
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blod_ tl) /,,,> a prekler, "",li'd ""dill (Illd h";llltt, Tu ,llr tht J'ft. '/lr((It( lilt "''0 /OJlg bars to thtrlt'ititJ, ot 1,,(, ('tit'; 'le( (/(.J you "ted a .r 1lidl ('01...,... »rt II" bo nc .r apart). TII(?~ mi&t' 11>,.. " blod, to Ih, dr.,1'ni I,,;ghl (",Inch ..../1 ~ the d.-plh '"~ Ihr "'U), and plact Ih, )lfl u ,T Ih' 11%" blad, ,-t!'g.IMJlg IV 11111,1'. 1,,~A,"g oolh t)" Jro..l nod oorl< mqra oj th~ blade The .. "lun' tJ "n(' 0" fir, lobi. 3(J ( alollQ tkt' in.sid,O/ 1M bar at th, "lxrck" .ide ",'lire
blad,. R"" lll.,'t' tJ 1'.)19. alld C'1411tp a fewce pa,ull,1 t" Ih, 1m, oll/h.lubl, top, alto«; i"g
had a IlItJ~ hit of trouble rutting the on tN· lah'" >aw for the oct.aj!onaJ dock In lI'oodI .. Ilk :\umher 12, 1 kA>.:p 1'\1'
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\"h." ('t.ltl,"U tI ((""., (11/ a tablt' ~(lf(·.111'I\:f 11""1/.,,,,1,n"i,,~ Ih., ~i ••ula/shape oflJ,. F" .. hrd """, F,rst. J.eiglll of Ike blade. S,.~o,t(l,Ihll tl/,yl, at II'IIirf. tnt lcood i# Itlrr~'"('t(1 i, ttl' hladr. A,td lllird, tll~
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,I rnlt Ix quit(.,
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'.·;«""'t8 ran
b(' purchased
fro", Gan'('(t \V:odc. llil .4('(, ort", A 1111rira., XCII' l'ork, S.) /IIOIJ, (Catalog: 3,001
fROZEN GLUE
I need h('I),: llunn~ Ihi' year',
=' In-
diana Jan....1') , •• ,,·pr..1 gallon.- of both m~
)<110,.. (.b~hatlC resin] and white (poly. \ i"yl .. "t..te) glue fl'OU up, 'The while !!lu. " ... ob\juu-Iy rulnod (or so II appeared}, 'Th,' >~Ilo" 1!1u~,bewever, appear..'<1jU>1 filii' alt.r thawilll! out in the u\;nlr room,
Are the) .ul(..bl,· 10 u>e on a proj""l~ I need to know in a hurry. ;0 I'llknow if I should Inke II "" a 10"' on Uncle Sam', April 15th fili"g, C Ul"t"t·t. I ",/ia1/(1
To
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,('t c()IIUlcted
111('It'(/' 'tirol ",a'/flgi r {or The jo'ranklin Glue rt/(11 IU" ~) I
Company, ,,,,,ken< orTiI ..bondylll£, AffOm "9 tf> Jucl;. franklin', "bphalic "".-;IH nnd 1""lIl'" III U(",.tClt~ gl It'it on 1I'llnt II.. II cull J''':' lA,,,,, .tablc. II'hal /},iII "" 0>1$ ,. tkat Ihnr glll< Ioa8 b<.. R PMt throu.gh a ftY~l( 'na~(':1('/" 5 t,n".'I: and It .till ITPlla,~ Il,abl, III',fro:r a I>>tti( OJ Titebondilluf. a.d "JIN' ,I had thatt'..J, il tt'()'(
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of IJlt glut Ifltvltlel rtl,,-", te} tlartl,al j,l.' by Htirri"!1 it, /)"1 rttnaitt.' ilt thtl rullelY" rl"'(''''''~1;k~ 1ftn/~,(,r it dtH'J41l't rrtu,nl t(J .Is "'Jr"'(li fl'(ld alate. it should bt d .. rardrd. Hili normal/y, 111< glll< "hUl,ld Ix- 1't'''~(l4If''("", (,lIrr tt J'(ln btnl
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fIj t},t hlt.dr. I Th~ h, yhl oJ II" bl",J .. d,IN'm, .... 1/.. Juw h ", pU, uJ tht '0''<' Th, o,rgll Of4tl.4ll'1 l,.tl'""I"~8 UI~~/'id'), of tM tolV ,11 Ih, at gl~ of atlaek ill 'NnvtJ.O<'d frvrl ng p orr 11110 I}" M( of tl>.t 6/odr}, Inr dJk It't/l'IIO'ntM TA d a,lI th( Wad. romb na· liON thl/oraRglt 0{ Il., blad, bw .-tlthollgh /ht' lldji"fablt" tMQitgi( "Mlf JI",btJW" Int I,aft .ml'vrlanl fac"ndl, II /:Io$lCUlly. a 8,,1(111 .... 1(1filk art"kTfltt. ,I dlJn ollu'" you to g(.I. d II" (leT blad tnU IlnKi ,r,. (1 (o,'f tC,tl, Cl'~"fr IlIa,1 (ttlll ull,('1' II't(l~",ril,g det;U that If ...·p' ,,( If. ~11(1"'11I ""," a~ 8'("111'.' nil thnCt (" 111,.:0;,1 Ja~tonro,,· Tu Ih, ""yl, vf
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ANGLES
MIIIIY pinnA .all for Ihe rutting of anglt.,; other tha" 00' :tnd IS . How do you set • M\\' hlad(.' tt1 S)I'l'CiJit,.·I)· 22ltt. or ;in)' other odd angle? I'm I).. ",ntly woing the uial and error method, an)' ,u~e'lions?
CO\ ~
rutlllll! I"" ('()\{'tOO..,de, \\'hat diameter blaAledid you U!le and d", .. blade.ize make an~ difl'~""lre'
"98""
The ."1'1"t II" 'tt.tJ, rill! 11,,.,,,,, ,", ;"t«$14"· PlI('lIt (I}J tur '"OIIQI, If) snokr tI't;t,· a di';t'l'l "ft '
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'The pril'(' """ $i.OO per hinge and I reel lhat Lhey Rl'(' Ih,' be.t available. Col"
,t lp tit" se« correat»
t"J'tTlf
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til, algp of the tria"9" agu""1 Ih,..f1,,1pa rl of til(' oa... blad., ",oklriallglr. I"'"
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Hf' ai60 adt'llf.rti n(lt1'IIal trying to dil'lle tAt' glNL to ,1"'ll"'I/" the ("IJftugt cl!{f-,4:.I' tfJ«t Thill tAr' III, Mf' ~(SOOdA left afl~r lA, Il'OI/!r Ana n.Ylpumf..J, rfflu/!, Ing fk~.Im l}tA ,I{ IAt gl.r Jock ala" mrnl .."",J 11><11 tA, "~"flil''" Franklin'~gillf' i8 Itllt'11 a. 61.r "f(~nth..(" Tlre,l. ot,,,,~.'(1 "llltt ~,,.c brruth. he 3Uid thol a."IOl!go.s 'Ir.fg/'lr 1.s8tlll i/llt~ 110nl14./ jl",d .tutf a"d 1,0' «It t'I't'rt (()lf~i3taJ/cy (It'hie), I,ruy ref/'11ft 8tlrrtJlgJ. It AAOllld
mlU,.,.
Illill bt, II(}()(I.r''!Iomlro. oj 'I.•ng., COI,(t",illllll .. 10" I('ril.off. 11t'O"ld,,'1 tourh tlwt lUilll a It II fool board.' - S,K,
--------------------
23
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Bread Board A LOAF NEVERHAD IT SO GOOD When a bread board was suggested for the projecl on the back page. my first thought was that any old cutting board would work just fine for cutting bread. Then it dawned on me thnt using the cutting board 1 have at home would be 8 great way to gt:l rn~al flavored bread. Basieallv, the bread board consists of n laminaled top, with end caps lhal arc attached u~ing a pinned dovelail longue and groove joint. And since the easiest way to cut thisjoint is on a router table. the broad board'. an ideal project to uy out the new router table on page 18. LAlIIXATEU IIOARIl. The
main body of'the
bread board is made by edge·gluing strips of JI,xJl" maple and cherry. The 1i",1step is to cutIS strips of maple and ~ strips of cherry 10"long. Then the strips are glued together. alternating them so that a piece of cherry is on both outside edges, \VIlen the pieces are damped together. keep all of the ends Oat by wrapping wa: paper over them and clamping them with Jorq"Mtm hand screws (or between two bo&rds). After the glue has dried. cut both ends equare so that the board is UW' long. E~1lCAI':S.The end taps art' made OUL of maple and are attached with a pinned dovetail tongue and groove. The first step is to cut the end caps 2" "ide and as long as the lOp is wide, Fig. 1. Then rout a "r -deep dovet..'IiIgroove on the inside edge of the end caps (see page 22). After the groove is cut. the dovetail tongue. on the ends of the board are cut to fit very snugly in the groove. fig. 2. However, before the end caps are attached, 1 used a "core box" bit on the router table to rout the fingcrgtipson both sides of the end cap s, Figs. 2 and ·1. ASSEM81,Y. At this point, I waxed the tongues of the board 10 help them slide in the groove when assembled. Even with thc W8.'<.,they may need to be tapped on with a mallet. T. keep the end CSf'(' in place. drill a 14· hole through the end cap and into the board, then glue in a ¥•• dowel, we Fig. 3. 8~' pinning the end caps rather than gluing them. there'. little chance of the top splitling as it expands and contracts. TilE LAl>"J'ST.!!'S. To smooth the top it's better to use a belt sander rather than 8 hand pian•• because the grain of the top runs in different directions. After the bread board is sanded, cut the comers of the board to a l' radius. and round over all of the edges using a 14" l'Ounding over bit, \Ve fini,hed the board using Bellini Salad Bowl Filli.h.
24
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