NO. 65
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.50
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..... No. 65
EDITOR'S
October L989
Wrodsmith
Sawdust
~
Ed'tOt Donald 8. Peschke D05l9ll OireCIor Ted Kralicek Managing Ed~or Douglas L Hicks AssiStlllllEd~orsDouglas M. LIdster Kent A. Bucklon Terry J. Strohman PIOjeCt Designer Ken Munkel TedVlioalllluSlralol'SDavid Kreyllng Cary Christensen RodStoakes Chris Glowacki Customer SeN~ Linda Morrow, Mgr. Pat Koob Lisa Thompson PtojectSupplr•• LestieAnn Gearhart C
W(x_')l)Sl\~ITfI STl)RES GernualManager Ste~eKrohmer Matketilll) Manager Steve Dozier SIOte ManagefS' Sl.loc.Jls,Me Jon Behrle
Beclce!ay, CA Michael DeHaven Des Moioos, LA Kent Welsh WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164·4114) ;$ pub· lished blmonlhJy (February, April, June. August, October, Oecember) b-y WOOdsmlth PubQshlng eo., 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines,lA 50012. Woodsmith is a registered trademarlt of Woodsmilh Publishing Co. ,~'CoPyri9ht 1989 by Wocxfsmllh PUblish· ing Co. All Rights ReseNed. Subscriptions: One year (6 tssoes) $15.95, Two Years (12 issues) $27.95. canada and Foreign: lldd $2 per year, U.S. funds only, Single Copypn'ce, $3.50. Second Class Postage Paid at Des Moines, Iowa and aladdilionaJ offlC
2
COLUMN
D
on't show this issue to anyone under heading"ROUl1NG 1)!llfCl'ION." the age of 10 ... unless you've got ~'e try our best 10 show woodworking some shop time blocked out. techniques tim! are both safe and yield the I can't remember two projects that have besi results. But safety should alw
\JN.The fun part of the 'toy Train Jnauage our customer service department was making the track. The trackisdesigned (when it was mostly subscription manageso it's easy to make-and so mere sections meoO is now workiog as illY assistant. She's can beaddcd any time in the future. Oncewe helping me with the business side of things designed it, Ute hardest pan was walking - circulation. renewals. direct mail. It's through the office as new sections of track great 10have her hell). found their way in more nmazing pauerns F.DO'ORNIiEOBD. \Ve're 1000kingforatleast and stretching 10 new pans.of the building. one good editor to join our staff. 111CprobOYAL HOX. There are two reasons to build lem bas beenfindlegscmeonewith the right the Oval BOl< shown in tillS issue. First, it mix oftalents, makes a oice.giit. But the real reason, is thaI Most magazines require editors with it uses a technique that's just plain {un from ediling and wriling skills, At lVooosm!tl(, awoodworker's standpoint. we're lOOking (or someone with a first-hand The box is based On Ihe shape of a bev- knowledge of woodworking, and an interest eled-edge oval mirror. It requires transfer- in passing that knowledge on to others. ring the shape of {his mirror to a template. If you're a woodworker and have some Then tlte template is used with a router to experience with writil)g. or a[ least a sincere rout out the recess in the lid for the mirror intercstin learning how towrite. mayoe this and.a complementary recess in we base for is the job foryou, Please send your resume jewelry. to: Doug Hicks, Managing Edilor '[be idea is the same no matter what the Doug and [ will send you a package of shape. If you find an intriguingl>allern ofany information abour the job and the responsishape, you can make a template from it and bilities involved. rout outthalshape. N~'TtSSllE. The next issue o[ WQext.mith CAlIllC,)S. I want to point oul the note of (No. 66) will be mailed dueing the week of caution we've Pul on thene.,[ page under the December 18, 1989.
way.
WoodSll1ith
No. 65
FRO
M
FELLOW
WOODWORKERS
Tips & Techniques GLUING ON A HANDLE
DRUM SANDER VACUUM
How do you glue • handle into" hole without smearing glue 011 the end of the handle 8$ it goes in the hole? (F:ditc.,.>aNo/e: W. fflcocl II.i8 ''''Qbl~11t011 tlte
Mounting" drum sander on a drill presS is a great way 10sand the edge o( a workpiece, But it produces very fine sawdust that's a nuisance and unhealthy to breathe. To cut down on til e sawdust, I built a box thai works wilh my shop vacuum. To make the vacu 11m box, rip enough :Y4"·thic!.< stock to form an Hshaped frame. I cut all the frame pieces ~\r2"wide (high). The IWO cross members are cut to length so they're I !ft' tess than the depth (tront to back) of your drill press table. The front and back frame pieces are cut to length so
I solved this-problem by cutting a trough (or the glue in the center section of the handle. As the dowel is turned in the hole. the trough distributes the glue Ita1ldlep",Ute Rockill(/ Hors« around the ,,,side of the hole, $1(C)IVU 1~,,,tJli.si:Jttlw.) see drawing. To make the glue DRill SfRIES Of trough. I drilled a SMJ\L.l HOL1-~, series of small overlJiEN ffll ntOUGH WlTJ04 GLUE lapping holes in the dowel. The drill size and hole depth are relative to the diameter of the A,OTATEOOwtL TO dowel you use. III$
Now assemble the box. First, center the plywood bottom under the front and back frame pieces, Then, 10 provide a lip so U\C box can be clamped 10 the
lfAV£ROOM -FORCtAMPS
WHfNGlU1NG
drill press, glue the cross rnembers in about 2" (rom each end of the plywood bottom. Finally, glue the top down to the frame. I also CUI a set of inserts 10Jit
~~~~tj;~~~;C r have. The drums inserts I the various are cut (rom :Y4'1~ thick plywood 10 fi( the square hole in the top of the box. Then drill holes in the center o( th~ ill'
HOlf
ROUTING DIRECTION Iu ll'oQwwlilil No.. 64 we po~cd.Typically we don't show showed a dmwing Qf how 10 the 1I11a,'d in Ole drawings so rout a V,," round-over ()'r. a you
lDGES. KEEPING RNGERS ClIAR
(HAIR
BACK SlAT
No. 65
VACUUM -H05<
serrs V."larger than
the sanding drums, This will leave extra they're about twice as long as area for the dust to be pulled your drill press table. through andatlows'space so the After the mime pieces are cut drum doesn't have to be perto size, CuI a hole in one of the fectly centered in the hole, cross members to accept the To use the box, clamp it to hose from your shop vacuum. II your drill press and lower the sanding drum so il's just inside Should be" friction fit Now ripapiece Or.¥,," plywood the hole. Then lock down the 10width toequal thedeptb (fronl quill and you're readyto sand. to back) of the drill press table. An tho« II BOl'Sill i This piece iscut into two lengths Sf"t",.I.lmui, Now Y01'k (orlhetop and bouom QfU1Cbox. The bot10mis thesamelength as SEND IN YOUR tIPS the width of the drill press table. 1f you'd like to ~harc Ii tip and the top ls cut to the length of with others, send in your idea the front and back frame pieces. Before assem~liQg the bOX,I to \VoodSlllith, '!'ips & TechDiques. 22tJQGrand Ave., Des cutasquarehole right in ihecenMoines. Iowa 5031.2. tel' of the top to accept sanding \Ve pay $15 for accepted drum inserts. Then, to keep the tips, Please send an explanainserts from droppi)Jg thro~gh tion and a sketch if needed the hole, I added cleats under (we'll draw a new one). the hole at the sides.
Woodsmi[h
l
JUS
T
FOR
K 1D S
Rocking Horse Remember when you were a kid and couldn't 1'esist the pure delight of rocking at full speed? This is a project that creates dlose great memories .
. (
l
always amazed at tile interest and opinions aJ!.,,/bshaveconcemingchiidren'stoys.l'vewanted to make a rocking horse for a long lime, bui Il'ying 10 come up with a rocking horse thai ail the adults liked
Can be traced to the importance of making accurate measurements and identical curs, but the Challenges of Ihi$ pl1)ject are different. As I W1ISworking On the horse, I realized that I didn't.have to be so concerned ""4$almost impossible, about exaCl1neaSllremellts- rather exactfu.. ~IATERJAt..I knew from the start, thai a rocking Irs 001 SO important that parts match our measurehorse shouldn't look thin or spindly, so I made the mems exactly. Il's more important they fit together weU. body and tl.elegs otthe horse out 01lW'·thick stock. After I had built the horse's body, t wanted it to look The thick material gives the horse a natural appear' even more realistic so Iadded a fewextras -iwo glass anee and makes the back wide enough to sil on com- eyes, ears, mane, and a tail. All Ute extras looked so fortably,I used ponderosa pine lor the horse shown good, I couldn't resist adding a leather saddle and above, but any pine construction lumberwill work, bridle. ('tVeliked these extra parts so much wedecided Normally much of the challenge ill woodworking 10 offer them as a kit, see page 24.) alll
4
Woodsmith
No. 65
EXPLODED VIEW
.8 ...2" WOOOSCFL£WS
•
OVERAll DIMENSIONS
.."-
~
·---531f2"------l MAIN BODY PATTERN GRI:O DIVIDED INTO 1M$QUA-IUS
'""
MAIN BODY
piUG
_8
x- 11"4'"-
w'OOOSCIUWS
PLUG
l.
_Jj
FRONT LEGS
fRONT/BACK
LEG PAmRN T~
m
-: :-4
j..1 ...__--11..'--_.;!----,-;",---:~1 •
•
1-------24"~
fOOfPa:G HOI.!
MATERIALS WOOD PARTS A MClinBody (I) 1!<.1 x 11'/.-38 8 Le~Wedges(4) ~x7h-1O C Fronl Legs (2) See below' D Reorl!l9s (2) See below' E S
No, 65
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CUnlNG DIAGRAM SUPPLIES • (2)2xI2's,72'long • (2) 1x 8'5. 72'-long • (I> I ~8,36'-long • 20' piece Of 1.dowel • (32)%'wOOQscrewhQIeplugs • '8 x I!/.', 18 x 2' woodscre<'1$ • smoll rencfng steples' • (I)SkelnA'PJybrownyom' • (2)2-x4'plecesoflect!>er(eors)' • (2) I'glasseyes' • SoHnPQlyulelhone. 1pinl •Thesa ilemsore fnck.Jded In lhE>hordware kil, see psQe 24.
WQOdsm'jth
5
MAIN BODY The first srep in building the horse is to make an Lshaped blank for Ihe body
2
1 MAIN r
(A) from a 38"Jong
BODY
.@
piece of2 x 12 (lW' x 11V." actual size). To do thts.square up one
edge of the 2
x. 12 to a final width of 11 ". Then cut a IZOl
long piece off one end, and glue il to the other piece to fonn an Lshape, see Fig. I. Transfer the body shape from the grid drawingon page 5,or send forthepattem, see page 24. (Formorcon grid drawings, sec page 13.)111encutout the body andsand thcedges,
CUT HORSE
-SHAPE TO THE UNf. THEN Fill AND SAND SMOOTH
LEGS Alter the body (A) is sanded, I began working on the leg&. To give the horse a naturdl stance, I added wedges behind each leg. I.EC WEOCES.111.
leg wedge's (B) are formed by gluinl;: five smaller wedges together, see Fig. 3.(For more on cutting wedges. see page 13.) lAY OUTntE lEGS.Alter the wedges (8) are glued up, lay out the front leg (C) and rearteg(D) on a piece of l!-2t'slock, see Fig. 4. Also mark;Ih~ screw and foolpeg holes, Now rough)y CuI apart the two legs, see Fig. 4. 111eo drill a Iootpeg hole in the fronl leg with a I" forstner bit. Also drill holes (or the mounting screws inboth legs, see Fig. 5. cor IN 'two STEJ'S."he wedges (B) have
3
10 be cut 10 finalshape while auached to the
leg. BUI. because this creates a rather awkward culting angle, Ihad to cut the legs and wedgesin two steps. First, draw a line across the pattern 10" down from the top of the legs, see Fig. 6. Now cut out Ibe lower part of each leg (without the wedge attached), exiting th<: boardat the 10"mark. Next, attach the wedges to the i,,~uleof the leg with carpet tape, see Fig. 7. Then place the wedge-side down on the band saw table,and cut the remaining shape. see Fig.8. When one frO!)tleg (C) and one rear leg (I) have been culoutand sanded, use UICOI as patterns (0 layout and CUI the other two legs. (Be sure the holes on this second set mirror those On the first) PosmON TILEU>GS.Next. you can posilion the leg&on the body (A).The problem here is 10 determme 8 reference point to get
4
the legs at the correct angle (stance). Iused Ihe joint line (from making the Lshaped
body, refer to Fig. 2) as a reference line. 1'0 do this, place a straightedge on the joint line so it extends 18" beyond the horse's belly, see Fig. 9. Now position the rear leg (0) so the top of the leg isflush with the horse's back and the hoof is l~"from thestraightedge, see Fig.9.Then screw (but don't glue) the leg and wedge 10UICbody. With the rear leg in place, position the frontleg (C)so the top ofthe I~isnush with the horse's back. Now acijusl the front leg until there's 22\.!.!"between the hooves and 6" between the top of the legs. see Fig. 9. Then screw (but don't glue) the fronlleg down to the main blldy. TRL'L\IING TIlE WEpGES. \Vhen both legs are mounted In one side, there's a section of wedge under the horse that needs to be trimmed, Tum the horse over and trace the
DRJU i- PEG HOLII I ""·OUP IN FRONT
5
,
18,(;'
!.fGONLY
WOODSCREWS
...
COUNT£t--
i/tBOR.
.! SCREW
• LEG
HOLE LAY OUTl£GS
WEDGES
USING GRfD
(4 TOTAL)
1.1;-
t
lfG
DETAIL
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"".-;;:;;;--.1 ~
PAmRN
SHANK HOl!
1
6
8
SANOOur ALl SAW MAAKSwtfH_ DRUMSANOER
CUT LOWER.
PARTOFUG rOSHAPE UP TO THE 10"" MARK
6
W()odsmith
No. 65
LEGS
CONTINUED
horse's belly Onto each wedge. see Fig. to. Now unscrew-the le~. pull offlhe wedges. and cut to the.line. RO\.lND OVERI.£C5. To complete the legs. I routed a W' roondover on lheolltsideedge
all the way around. (Note: Don't rout the bottom onhe hool.) However. the rounding on the i11silieedge stops auhe wedge. To do (his, place the wedge in position on the leg and mark where it meets the edges of the
leg. see Fig. 10.Then remove the wedge and rout up to these marks, Repeauhe same procedure for the legs on theotherside. Then screw all four legstothe horse's body,
9
AnACH t[GS TO &COY WITH .8 )It 2WOOOSCREWS
fOOJPfG
HOLE
SECOND:
MARK LEGS WHERt THEY MEET "HE amy
1----22~"_-_-I
SIDES, HEAD, AND NECK Ididn't wanta skinny horse, so Iadded the rwe sides (E).
they're Oush "'UI the main head. and (hen clamp (but don't glue) them in place. NECK. Nextcomes the neck. Forthe neck, SAND TO rrr, To get a good fit. I cut the follOWthe same procedure as when making MAJ<'EA PATI'£RN. To determine the sides oversize. and then sanded to tile lines. the sides (!O). see Fig. 15.Once theneck (G) shape of the sides. I Once the sides fit. rout a Vi' round-over on pieces Iit, glue the head pieces and neck made a paper pat- all (our outside edges. and glue the sides to pieces to the main body. tern. Begin by un- the body, see Fig 13. sour HEAD,IND NECK. \Vhen the gtue is screwing the legs on T1lACETll£ IlEAO.The next step is 10 cut dry. remove the 6'ont legs and rout a "'til one side of the horse just enough to slip a the head's side pieces (1"). Start by tracing round-over on the outslde edges or the head piece of paper under them, see Fig. It. Now each side of the main head onto a piece of and neck. see fig. 16. (Note: Don't rout the trace tbe outline ofthe back, belly. and both 1x8stock. and drawthejaw line. see Fig. 14·. neck where it meets the leg$.) Finally. glue legs onto the paper. Cut out this shape and Now. cut out and sand these two pieces so anti screw the legs in place. gl\l~ it to a piece 0(,1 \I!!"-thickstock, see Fig. 12. (Since the shape may vary, make a separate pattern (or each side.)
11 • •
14
muOWCIUD PAn£RN10
TRAct
15
OUTUN£
16
Of NE~,K ONTO
MAK~JAW
ONE
R(MOVE fRom
LEGS
'AND ROUT lh" RouNO-OVER
PAPER
,IT \'
'"
TRACE'BOtH '~ SIDE-S Of H,EAO 0N10 1 x & STOCK
No. 65
,
PI£(·ES SO JHtY'RE FLUSH
""
WrrH BODY
SUD' PAPER
.~DAE=j)~~:
.
I
0
GLUE HEAD
.~
SIDE PIecES
~"'\"* .~ ~.
AND NECK
PIECES INTO PLACE
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Wooosmith
7
ROCKERS AND CROSSBARS two boles. the sise ora pencil. ORAII'TItE CURVE. Next. place a 54''lQng piece of l x 8 stock under the beam and ill' sert a pencil through the holes to draw the curves of the rockers (H). seeFig. 17. Tocornplete the layout. draw a 2Vi' radius at the end of each rocker, see Fig . .173. a six- [001beam com~IAKJNGnIECROSSRARS.Aftercullingoul pass to lay them-out. the rockers. next [ cut five crossbars (I), MAlffiACOMPASS. To make the beam corn- sec Fig. 18. Round over bolh the top edges pass. start with a 78'··long strip of wood and and ends with a I't' round-over bit. nail down one end, seef·lg. 17.NolYmeasure To attach the crossbars to the rockers. counterbore mounting holes fOrNo.8 x Iv.." down from the nail 69l'l" and 72". and drill
.=:>
Aftcl'lhe basic horse is completed. work can begin on the rockers (11). Since the curve of the rockers Iollows a large radius. r made
17
o.
woedscrews, ScI' fig. IS. MOL~"mE CR(l$$Il,\IIS.To posiliun th e
from and rear crossbars ([j on the "" ....r-, (1-1). mark the centerpoint of each rod,. r Thenmeasorethe distance between theel' rer olthefrom and rear hooves on lh"hol"c Now screw LWO crossbars, (1) illlo the roc).;· ers so Ihey will be directly beneath the hooves. see I'ig.19. Anach the remaining three crossbar, and sand them flush.
18
NAIL BEAM DOWN
lEAMCOMPASS (MAKIFROM
".
C;UT21.,.," RADfUS ON 80TH
- COI1NTtlJ.&OIU
ENDS Of ROCKER /'~·ROUT ..""ROUND-OVO
STRiP OF WOOD)
ON ALL TOP !=OGlS
SQU","" ROCKER Bl,ANKAND 8£AMWITHA, fRAMING SQUARf:
\._
®
19
AnACH CROSSBARS WlTH ,8
ROCKERS
'-1-- 7~"R
x- 11/4"
WOODSCREWS, lHIH PLUG HOLES AND SAND RU~H
P(N(ll
/'
HOLES
_I!
11C8
T AftACHING
LEGS TO CROSSBARS
Now that all fivecrossbars (1) are screwed in place, the horse's hooves have 10 he cut so they'lI sit Oaton the two outside crossbars. I3cgin by centering the horse's hooves, O'Ollltobackand side to side. on the outside crossbars. see Fig. 20. SCRUlEntEcm·UNE. Once the horse is in
positlen, scribe a CUtline around each ofthe
four hooves. Note: If the horse sits unevenly or titts to
one side. place" small shim under one or more of the hooves until it sits correctly. In orderto scribe each hoof. the shim must not stick oul (rom under the hoof. 1'0 scribe the hooves. first determine which ofthe hooves has the great est amount of space beneath it.Then. usiAgthescrilling block technique described on page 12.mark aline around each of the hooves. see fig. 21. (This is where each of the hooves will be
eut.) Now use" fine tooth hand saw to trim
each hoof along the scribed line. SCREW DOWN 1I0HSE. Wh.en the hooves have been cut.and they sit flat, the norse can beauached to the two outstdccrossbars, To do this, mark the center oC each hoof on th~ bo ltonl 0f the crossbars, Then drill and countersink a :VII;" shank hole. USing one N
21
20 C(1oll1!R HOR$E
ON CROSS-GARS
/
ROCKER
.OCKERS
-
8
Woodsmith
1'lMPORARllY SHIM HOOF I' NECESSARY
No. 65
HANDLEBAR AND FOOTPEGS Once the horse is the VO';lit oflhespade bit breaks through the screwed down to the other side. Then. back the bit out and drill crossbars. I added from the other side the handlebar (J) Note: I used a Portalign on a hand-held and the footpegs drill, see Fig. 23. HANDI.IlIlAR. \\'ith the hole drilled, the (I<) to keep little hands and feet in handlebar (I) is Out 10" longirom a piece of place. 1"-
23
SinceI didn't want the handlebar 10 move afler it was glued, r also pinned it in place with two 4d finish nails through the horse's neck and into the handlebar, S(.'(! Fig. 24. FOO11'F.(~~. 'To make the footpegs (K).cut two 4%"-long pieces of I" dowel. Then glue the IWOpegs into the boles drilled in lite fronllegS (C). Also use 4d finiSh nails to pin the pegs in place. see fig. 25. All that's lefllo complete work on the handlebar U) and the foolpegs (K). is 10 sand the ends or the dowels 10 a soft radius and fill the nail holes with wood putty.
DRill POIitTAt.fGN
~~_
--~ ~ .~
HOll j:$tOM 80TH SID(S TO AVOID
... ~
NOTl:
2S
, PIN'OOWIl wnH ,
4d FINISH NAIL
_ rAOM ~ACK 't OF LEG
SpuNttRING
:1
'I'
H....
lOCATt HOts FROM GRID
SlOE PIEcr
DRAWING
\
<.
•
<, I"SPADE '~\
Bll
~
"
\,
.
:x(;P'
" tt
PIN IiANOlEBAR
WIlli TWO 4d FINISH NAIt.S
t.:
/ I" DOW'll.
/.
c
K
FOOTPEG
1\1 \ , FRONT
UOI
I
EYES, EARS, MANE, AND 'AIL 'TIle wooden parts of Using the grid drawing as a reference, 1 enough. 'DICIt usiog 8 small fencing staple, the horse are drilled a I" hole. Vs"·deep on either side of attach the yam in dumps of 15 pieces. StaJ1 complete
at this
point. Since this
horse is bound 10 lake some abuse, I wanted the finish U> be as durable 8S possible. I used two coats of satin polyurelhane. sanding lightly between coats. EYES.The finishing touches are the eyes. ears, mane, and tail. The eyes I used are called glasscraft eyes that are 1"in diameter.
26
,. HOJ,E, '/I"·DEEP
NOT£:
placewith epoxy,sec Fig. 26.
AAMS.The ears are "lit from two small pieces of 'Ill"-lhick leather. Tomakethe ears. cui the leather into football-shaped pieces that are 2"-wide and 4"·loog. Then fold the two pieces in halfleng1)lY,;se and nail them to either side of the head, see fig. 26. rus MANE. WI1al'sahorse withoul a Dowing mane?To make the man", cul4-ply yam into Ill" lengths. There are over 200 strands
I" above the base of the neck and center the staple over the midpoint of Ihe pieces of yarn. see r~g.27. Note: To prevent a bald spot at the top of the head. 1stapled in extra clumps o( yarn. 'filE TAlL The
final step is LOadd the tail. The tail i$ made Ihe same \yay as rile mane except the yarn pieces are 28"~()n~ and there are 34 pieces in each of the three clumps, see Fig. 28. [fyau w.. nLIOmake thesa(ldlc and bridle of yarn ill Ute mane, so make sure LOmake shown in the photo.see Sources on page 24.
FOlD liAlloIER
EARSIN H~U:, THEN Np,'L IN PlAC!
lOCATION OFEYESAND EARS DfTtRMINEO ONGRJD
DRAWING
the head. Then I simply glued· the eyes in
,p-
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IeJ);'O,l .:;.:?
$TAPli 3
C-\.UM'S CWYAI\N
, \
t." APA,RT 15 StRANDS
Of l'''·lONG
o
No. 65
YARN
Woodsmith
9
EVENING
ONE
PROJECT
Stamp Dispenser W
hen. 1started working on this stamp dispenser. I tJ1Qughtil would 00 a relatively simple project - something I could knock out in one evening with no problem. Bull discovered there was one especiallychaJlengingaspe.cl. The stamp dispenser is basically Iwo pieces - all. outside rase and a stamp holder tilat slides inside it, refer to Fig, 8. The challenge is finiJlg the holder into the case-perfectly, A lillie loose and it slides rightoul. A little tigot and you can 'I pull it out to add aroll o( stamps. Ilhas to be nearly a perfect friction fit. There arc two secrets to gelling this kind o[ fit. First, Ute case is designed so the stamp holder iscut.directly out ofthe centersecuon of the outside case. But even with Ibis design it still lakes a litlle patient sanding. Don 'Ltry to speed alOng 100 f*SLUse a gentle hand and a few trialfits to sand the holder down 10the right fil in the case. Before you start. there's a decision to be made about the lype of wood to use, Building a case this small presents an ideal opportuJ)ity to use up some of the scraps around the shop. It's also a way to experimentwith exotlc woods. wi!houtspending a fortune, Thestamp holderwtllaccepla roll ofone hundred stamps (Whith costs a lot more than when IWasa kid).
LAMINAnNG
THE CENTER BLANK
The cemer section of the case and the pull-
out stamp holder are made from one blank. This blank has \0 be 1Ya" thick to accomodatearollof'stamps, ltcan be one solid block or laminated (rom three pieces, see Fig. 1. CENTER
B1..A1I'1<.To make a lami-
nate.! blank, rip a~4"·thick centerpiece (A) 21-1l"wide and", least 3" long. (This is Ys" wider than the final blank to allow for trimmingo Also. fOr easier handling, I recommend cutting Ulis piece 8" long. 111is will yield two dispensers out olone blank.)
1 10p
~/4"
Next, resaw two side pieces (8) :!ti6'" thick. (This thickness will product' a block 1!.t··thick - \1i" more than the heJght of a lO
or
CI!f'IO$IZE. "'hen theglueisdry. trim the
blank down 102!' wide and cuto((a3"lenglh. Shop Note: i3e(oregoillgon.llabelled the
front, back, top. and bottom to keel) track of all the edges, see Fig. I.
A 1y."-dia. hole ts jusl the right SiZCIOholdaroll oflOOstamps.layout a centerpoint (or this hole on the side ofLhe blank 7,jj"down from the top edge and %" in (rom the back edge. see Fig. I. Then drill out the hole on the drill press. see Fig. 2. To keep from chipping out the back side. flipthe piece over when the point of the bit breaks through and complete by drilling-(rom [he back side. OI!lU. IlOI£.
2
~SIDES IRONY
Nom
Q.
DRill fROM 80TH SIO(S
TO PJtEVlNT eMJPOUT
'0 1I'4"·OIA. FO~ER
OEl SPADE srr
_) BACI(ING
TOP
BOAAO
"
.""
K£EP EDGES F1.USH WHEN ClAMPING aOTTOM
10
Woodsmich
No. 65
CUnlNG
OUT THE STAMP HOLDER
Mer drilling the hole (or the roll otstamps, I used the band saw to cut the stamp holder out of tho center ofthe block. St." UP FENce. Start by clamping the rip fence (or a straight piece or plywood) 10the top of the band saw table V," from the i118U18 or the blade.see Fig. 3a. FIRST cur, There are actually three separate cuts thatproduce a "U" shape. To make
the first cut, set thetop«dgeofthc laminared blank against the fence and start the cut on fhe fron; IIdgo, cutting until the blade just breaks into the hole, sec fig. 3, SECONDcor, Before making the second and third cuts, mark stop lines 14" from the back edge on both sides, see Fig, 1. Then place the piece so the bottomedil. is against the fence and make the second cut until the
3
a.
blade touches the stop line. THIRDcor, To complete the "U," first tum off the power and remove the fence, Then feed the blade back through the lirstcut until it's in Ute hole and next to the pencil line. Turn on the power and cut along the pendl line down to the second cut. and remove the holder. see Fig, ,I. Once they're cut apart. save both of the pieces.
4 REMOVE STAMP HOLDER:
NOTE:
u,sHAI'[<> pfleI SICONO CUT/fUJI
II·£COMES
Jr---_I
~-:........ ..,.."
OtmllCIIS(
BlAH.
ova so SOITOM
NOTE:SfOP
EDGE
IS AGAINSt -fENCE
POwat AfTtR CUnlNG,
THEN "BACK BLANK OUT
FINISHING THE DISPENSER A(ter the two pieces are cut apart. uie ease is ClJrOFF£..'1D.Merlhe holder fits into the What you want is a friction fit between tlte completed by gluing :VIS" -thick case sides case, sand the lop and bottom bandsawn holder and outside case. To gelthls, r pulled (C) to the outside olthe "U".shaped case. edges smooth.Then slide the holderall tilS eut thebolder and sanded lI1esides.ligilttg, CIIfTO SIZE. Start by cutting tbe sides to '/(Jag in the case, and push it down so there's 'The best way to do this isto rub the stamp the sante width (2") and length (3',) as the a slot for stames at the top. Now cut off the holder across apiece of sandpaperthars lay· case. (For these parts, Iused the same wood front of the assembled pieces. see Fig. 6. ing on a Bat surface, see f'ig. 7, Keep check, as the center piece on the case.) CORNERRWIUS. Next. cut a Y$"·radius off ing until the holder fits loose enough to pull DRIll HOLE.To provide a finger recess (or the top back corner of the case and sand this out easily, but norso loose it falls out, pulling out the stamp holder. r drilled a I"· comer smooth, see Fill: 6. ROUND EDGllS. Finally, round over the dill. hole through both side pieces (C), see FlUCI10NFIT.Now comes the tricky part. edges of the case, see Fig. 8. fig. 5. (Later these holes will be cuLin half, refer to Fig. 6.) RISAWTWO PJECES c:;tVEON SIDES. Now you can 5 6 ~~·THIC:K glue and clamp Ute sides 10 the case with Ote holes toward the open end of the "U," see Fig. S. Here's the flrst point where CASE NOTE: n~~~~ you have In be careful or the STAMP SIDES stamp holder won't have a perBLOCK MUST feci fit in (he case. First, apply Ge110KT the glue sparingby. Any glue AGAlttsr ORll_t 1"·!)IA. INSIDE squeeze-out inSide the case will HOltrnOOYGH--.) SOTTOMAND prevent the holder from fitting. 60TH stDE .,IICES 8.ACK Of eMf CUT-END OFF And don't put too much pres8Ef.ORE CUITING CASE ANOkOlDER sure on the clamps. REtNSERTROLDER.Once the NOTE: glue dries, remove the clamps 7 8 PLACEA ROll OF 100 and push the Stamp holder back STAMPS INTO H()u)E~, U5l t,ot .. into the case. It will probably be TH(N suee INTO cASE ROUNOo a very tight fiL !fil doesn't '1itall OVER 8.IT ON AU. the way against the back of the OU'rSl0E case. check for any dried glue EDGES that might be in the way.lfitstiU EXCEPT ",ONT doesn't fit, you may have to EDGES $lightl,!/ sand the side of the LIGHnY stamp holder, see Fig, 7. Don't SAND STAMP DOfoI'T HOlDtR FOR sand too much - you want a IRONTWGlS fRtC'TION fff very:tight fit at this point EDGES
No. 65
W00
1I
TIP
SOME
S
FRO
M
OUR
S HOP
Shop Notes SCRIBING After scribing, cut the side of the cabinet on the line and it should nestle in againstlhewaJl. ,~ PROBLEM. While a compass works well. there can be a problem. This occurs when you're trying 10 scribe a small distance (as when making the lemplale for the Oval Box). \Yilh the point and the pencil <0 ('10.""together. you cant mark wittnhc tipO(lhc pencil without pushing Ihe pivot point away irom the side of the obiect, sec FiJr. 2.
When Ibuilt the template tor the thatpassesthrough thecenterof Oval Box on Pl'ge 20, [ had IQ the legs. This a(ijustilig rod al.crib~a linenround the oval mir- lows the com pass to be set ror. When you scribe a line, aU easily. 'The other benefitto using you're really doing is tracing this type or compass is the legs around an object. The trick is to won't move as you're scribing. always keep the lracing an eq!tal SCRI81NGA CABINcr. A l¥Pical distance from Ihe object, example of scribing wilh a com' CO~LPASS,The traditionaltec! passwould be when filling acablor scribing a line is a compass. inet ro an uneven wall. see fiJr. A compass can be setso the pen- I.To do this. setthc distance be. cil point and the pivot polrn stay tween (he compass pointand the a specific distance apart. pencil <0 the pencil leaves a Thecompass \hal [ like io use mark on the cabmet as you pull lor SCribing.has a threaded rod the compassdown the wall,
POS"£RllOARI>
2
1
SCRIBE.
To
solve this problem, I scribed around the mirrorwith a piece of posierboard and a pencil. Starting with a 1" x I" square or posterboard, 1 punched a small hole al a desired distance. (W' (or tile Oval Box) from one edge. see Fig.3a. Then push the lip or a pencil in the hole until it just starts to come through the other side.
Now. hold the posterboard light against the ~ide of the mirror and move the pencil around the oval. see Fig. 3.
3 a.
a.
!-tOLD
PENCIL
PENCIL
POI'"
VlllllCAL
JUST
CA81NIT
lHltOUGH POSTEA60AAO ~
I
)V
UNEVEN WAll.
c.>
... -'" x 1POSTERBOAJtD _
(OMP~POrNT PUSH£OAWAY FAOM SIDE-
SCRIBING BLOCK Scribing the hooveson the R(,cking Horse was a problem that required a differenl solution, Since there's a space beneath the hooves, the poinl of a compass will slide under it and make all inaccurate scribe line. To solve this problem, 1 ap. plied the same technique t use when leveling lejls on stools and chairs. The idea is to scribe a line on all four legs that's an equal distance from the fleor, Then, when the legs are cut on the scribed lines, all the 109>;SI!Oal,
ers as explained on page S.) $CRIBI;
1
(;,., .' ,
Horse, setthehorsecnthc
12
rock-
, ~
, SHORT lfG- ~
2
8lOCK
THtCKNtSS
srr StOOL ON FLAT SURfACE
WORK ON Ft,A1' SURFAce,
Begin by setting the stool on a nat surface, TIle table saw is the flattest surface in my shop. ('Vhen sen bing the Rocking
e,
pencil pqintligbtagainst the lop of the block. Then move the pencil and block around each of the legs. see £lig.2. All that's lC(llo level the stool (or Horse) is to cut each leg on the scribed line.
",..
...._
EQ,U/ll.$ DISTANCE UNOE.R
~
SHOflTUG
~
NOTE:
lr-;::l~
HOLD PINCll TiGHT
~
SKIM
t..
SHORT£ST~
~
SCl.8E BLOCK
LEGIS,
AGAINST SlOCK ANO SC.R,SE' AROUND
SHIM
SHlM CAN NOT _STtCKOUT
AU. FOUR. lfG$
66'tONDUG
Woodsmith
No. 65
TRANSFERRING A PAnERN The problem with laying out a proiect like the Rocking Horse (page 4) is the lack of SQuare edges. There's noLhing 10 dimension from. That's why we use agrid to help with the layout,
There arc a fewtricks thatcan make using a grid easier. (If you
1
don't want to usc a grid, get the Then connect the marks. H full-size plans for the Horse ant! ~legrid is small. I use a emming trace them. see page 24.) square t() lightly pencil in the ACCURAT.; .'t£,\..~UR£ME!\'1"S. titles. If the gl"id is large, 1 use a To make the grid. first mark s!«Iight board ordrywan square, ~()inl,; l' apart around the outDRAWING TItE SHAPE. Once sid~ edges of the board you're the grid tines are drawn, the going to cut the horse out of shape can 00 transferred to the
OQ ONt HORIZONTAL
_ -
(
FROM A GRID
2
I
• OIVloFINTO
BAND AT A TiME
$MALLER
J
INCREMENTS -I
X
:ttCH ':\
CUR'ltD lINES \ tnwt!fN
X '" GRID UNES
POINTS
...-
STRAIGHT UNES
X
DON~FlOW
CUnlNG
grid. To keep from losing my place. Ithink of the grid as a series of her izont at "bands." Within each band there ate points where Ute outline inler· seers the grid, trs these points that are transferred from the pattent to the glid. To locale these points, r mentally divide each l"lenglh of gAd line into fourths. This way J can estimate the intersection points easier. see Pig. tao After marking tbe points, ifsa matter of-connecting them with n curved line. To do thi s. look at the shape. then sketch the curve between the points. see Fig. 2. The outline doesn't have to match the pattern exactly. It's more important ihauhe finished shape looks and feels smooth.
WEDGES
The legs on the Hocking Horse are splayed out with wide wedges (see page 6). To make these wedges this wide. Istarted with narrow wedges and glued them together,
make the narrow wedges, start with 8 blank the same length as you want the wedges to end up. Sincei needed a 10Lof wedges for the Rocking Horse. Iglued cu:r1llE BlANK. 1'0
1
together pieces of I~"·thick stock to form a blank 10" tong and 22" wide. (Note grain direclion in Fig. 3.) The extra widUt allows you 10 support the piece with the miler gauge. SE'l·II»S.~w.SeUingup the $~W to cut the wedges
takes a num-
ber of steps. firSl, place a spacer block between the rip fence and the blade. Then lock down the fence so the distance from (he
~'!.n
block to the blade equals the
RdjuSI Ihe miler gauge to (it tight
againstlheworkpiece, see rtg. 2. Cl11TlN(;WEIlIIES. After the back the block and damp it to saw is set up. make a pass 10 esthe fence injhm! oflhe blade. tablish the angle.The cut-off Then put a mark on one edge piece 6'001 this first CUI is waste, of the workpiece lhal'S half of Then flip the blank over and the wide end (l/ts''). see Fig. 2. make another pass. see Fig. 3. Now, angle the workpiece.so The cut-off from this pass is the the mark aligns with ibe i"'idl! correctly tapered wedge. To cut of the blade and the adjacent more wedges, continue flipping edge touches the block. Then the piece between cuts. It"id" e)/d of the wedge ("~" for the horse), sec Fig. I.Now move
srr MJnR GAVG(
,
TO AHGt.€ OF IOARD
3
)
AUXiLIARY
,
fENCE 5PACER
stOCK
~
r:
C
8ttWliNS~~~R al.O<:K AND INSIDE ~i
SECOND, lOCK DOWN Rff 'ENCE
•
\.J ~
i"~ ..
aw>.
No.65
SEITO INSfD[ 01 8J.A1)'
Woodsmirh
13
JUS
T
FOR
KIDS
Toy Train
•
All the cars for this miniature railroad system start with the same basic chassis and a unique coupling system. Then you add top pieces to produce individual cars. And don't forget to lay some track under the train.
D
tsigning a lOy like this train can quickly gel OUI 01hand. The questlon you're usually faced with iswho are you designing it for: a child 10 play with or an arlull to build? From my experience, kids want toys that move around. but.don't break. And they want loys that aUowthem 10 IISC their imagination. Adults, on the other hand. want 10 build toys lhal look authentic (often 10 the finestdetaiO. TIle problem is thatextremely detailed toys are usually builttosit on a shelf, Kids would destroyrhem. In designing this train, we tried to compromise. It has enough detail to be interesting and not look clunky. But at the same time, it's buill rugged so even the youngest kid can play witll il without breaking il. tlNIF()lt\l CHi\.'SSIS. Building each of lI)e five cars starts lhe same - YOubuild the chassis. Then it's a matter ofaddillg pieces so it looks like a specificcar. Since all of the chassis are builllhe same, and interconnect witb a unique couplinll' system (refer to the j
•
;
00
14
•
opposite page). this system allows lhe cars 10 be arranged in any ordertoflt the needs of the engineer. lR,\Cl\. Arter I finished buitdilllt the train, I declded to make some track for the train to run on. The article on pages 18 to 19 shows how to build both straighl and curved sectlons.I think this is where the fun begins. (f YO\I make enough track sections. kids can use their imaginations to build all kinds of different layouts. MATERlJIlS. I built Lhe train and track from hard maple. (J1 hard maple is difficult to find in your area. we'reofferingthewcod andthe other parts to build the train and track, see page 24.) But you could make the entire train QuIof pine or any otherwood. FINlSIL 111e train and track will undoubtedly gel banged upso itmay be best tosonen allthe edges and to leave the wood unfinished.Uycu wan! [0 finish it. I would recommend an oil finish that flows into the tight spots. [£ the train is to be used by very small children, use a finish that's non-toxic. seepage 24.
0 0000_
WoodS01ith
No.65
i
•
-
THE CHASSIS
SHOP TIP
mounted the wheels using the and a tongue on the front (Steps bosic chaxsis (A), see below, lip in the box at right.) 4 to 6), Laying out and cutting \\ IIrE,-" CUI the chassis 10 t::OUPUNG,The most chal- the couplings on the first car sur. """ dn111he holes (or the lenging pari to make is the cou- takes a little lime, But after cutuk P JlS as shown in Step I, pling, Each chassis has a hole ling Ihe first chassis, Iused itas Mler the car was complete. I near the back end (Stells2and 3) a template (orJaying OUIthe rest.
Wh.en mounting the wheels 10 the chassis, I use a.simple
AIl 6,,, t
- "~2"'_'DtA.AAU PEG H()L($
_)
:::>
.........
..,
®
tcchniq1.le to keep from driving the axle pegs in LOO far, $lip" cardboard spacer between the wheel and chassis and drive the peg in tight. After pulling out the spacer, the gap lefl allow. the wheel 10 spin without bindinlt, Note: To keep the wheels from getling: in the way while building the car, I mounted them q.fl~I'the other pieces
were glued to the chassis, TAP AXI.£·P£G DOWHTIGKT, THEHAEMOvt
CAA080ARD SPA(ut
COUPLING DETAIL
,I,," DlA. X '116'" rHl(K WHEELS
, NOtCH SPACER TO fIT
lACK OF CAR
AROUND AXLE PEG
l3," OvtRAU. LtNGtH
x 1~2" TH1Ctc A.XlE PEGS
I...... ~J8LOCKS
_.--/
PsttvlHT
OPPOSfTt
PEG FROM BEING DIt~V[N IN
OACK (NO0'
(~SSIS8IANK
\
lACKING 80ARD
/
NOTE: etHYlIt HOLE ON THICKNESS OF C~ASS'S
;1f/ercILtting tne clwsllis to size, d,'UI IIole8 JOI' aXle pegs ccnl
8"".
•
]
Begin WIM,i1tg thefemale part oJtire Next, mellli'U'. '1fJ."fl'om the 2 3 cOltpltllg Irq d.,.jJ/illfl a {I~'-dia,how saw into hole. cOl
Mut
hole on the width ofrhl! ch(t~$i8blank,
1'00.11010
tiOllS of/thelmll II/lit ?'lJl"utlwle entl'(J.llce,
LAY OUf ANGUD UN!
~O~llPaiSS F£NeE
fROM FlOUS TO
EACH lOGE ,, ____
DIME (APPaox. :\'....DIA.• JUST fOUC'''O,$ JRONT Of BOTH HOU5
I
SET f(NeE- ~." fROM CENTER OF
afT
To 11I«ket4em«lese~tioll 4 plb/fl, start try d"illill{!
o/tluicO't, tll/O ,j/s'-dia,
,',~ I'/roy" tlie front !It,d Of 1/1£ C'IIt88~ " Ik,CClItel'tilelwles 9/16'jroY/l each ed{I.,
~\). 65
template so tlwl ToJinis"IOII!lI!e,clItj,,"t01L($«teli)/e 5 itPO$itionl.dim.easa 6 with IJcbl1milsalO(YI'copillg Then tl)uche$ the jrontedgiJ,of thsholes (I,1I,ddrat~ arolt"d Ute tibne. Theil draw Satll,
a nglelf lines doumfrom. holes to tlM edges, Woodsmith
file
(I" (/'$/
to (he Iin. check iII.{Jt/'IJUJw
cQup/illg fit« e(lsily i(){J6U",ru'1Ir,l"ivol',
15
ENGINE Since the engine pulls the rest of the train, I built it first. i11~chassis (A) for the engine requires a few modifications. First, cur the tongueoffUlcu'ontend .see Fig. 2.Then drill anotherset of holes for the tandem wheels. LOWEll BLOCK. Slartadding top pieces by cutting a lower block (B) from :¥,,"-ul(ck stock that's the same width as the chassis. Then trim an lS' bevel off the fronl end and glue lhe bl
1
BOIL£R.Next, the boiler is buill up ftom two 1V2''-widepieces. Cutthe Io'l"·thickcenter section (C) to length so the fronl end aligns with the bevel on the lower block (B). TIlCn cullhe>¥.,"·thicktop section (0) 3" long. and rou nd over the from end and sides. see Fig. 5. Now drill holes (or the smokestack, filler caps, and headlighls. sec Figs. 1 and 5.Then glue down.the boiler parts. CAll. Next, make the cab (E) out of a small
2
"'--"_5: SMOKfSTACK
rectangle of :Y4"·(hickstock and drill holes for the windows, see Fig. 4. ROOF. The roof (1') fQr the engine, the passenger car. and Olecaboose are all made the same, so 1cut a blank long enough (13") (or aU three. sec Fig. 6. To ma,kc the roof SIOIIC,tilt Ule blade (15') and lock (he rip fence V.I" (rom the blade. Then rip bevels off both edges. For the engine. cut off a piece 2I<,"·!ong aodglue itto the top of the cab. SPACEM1DDl£ WHEt'll.-l:"
CHASSIS)
....j
FROM. (:HAS54S
~I--
<, ---
TOP BOILER
ROUND FRONt TO
ISEE fIG. Sl
SMOOlHARC
1
~-I
CENTER BOILER (11')" )( ll,," JC. 41;,")
• CAB (SEt fiG. 4)
DRill ANOTH~R1..1~'"
~
A.XI.E NOLI ON BO'rn __., EDGl'S fOR TANDEM WHlEt.S
~-KN08
LOWER BLOCK
3
TAIMOFF
4
1,." ccwa, 1'" LONG
,,"
POsmON lOWfRBlOGK
r~."It '~4"X4~:'·l
5
.. 11lI,"ROUNQ-.OViR 8rT
r
~
3·----l 1/.1." t--'A"~ 'It"
--THROUGH aLOCK fROM
Af\lOOOWN TO CHASSIS
BOlK sroES
ROOF BLANK
6
'I," H£APUGHT HOl!
TOGElH.e~
I",.. BACK fROM fRONT OF CHASSIS
LOWER BLOCK ./
DIUU. :l1~ HOltS
GLUE PIEceS
~1-4-";". RIP .. NCE
1·1&"
SHOULD£R
'..i,'"
THROUGH
HOLES
If,'
rnr BlADE
THROUGH
TO 1S·
HOLE
SECOND: TRIM01'1' ROOF SEalON FOR tNGtNE
COAL CAR The coal car is the easlesuo build (and the most fun to play with since it can be loaded with alllYllCSof carga).It's just a box glued to the top ofIhe ehassts (A).
, crrr PIECllS 1'0 SIZE. Begin by resewing a and the (WO end walls (H) 10 fit between the
13"·longblank !Iil'··thickfor Olewalls. Then rip this blank 1"wide. Next. cui the Iwo side walls(G) ~Y.'''tong END WAllS
side walls. see 1'·,g.7. .'\SSE~tln.Y.Now. glue the box together. and glue it down to the chassis. see Fig. 7.
~
IA" THIel(
-----
16
Woodsmith
4~~4"
---- ..... ~l""·-., No. 65
PASSENGER CAR ~ 1!l3k,' th,· passenger CRr.rip :Y4'··(hick long and the window block 0) 3=1'4" long. through Ihe window block, see Fig. 9. nmu. WINI)OW HOLES, To offer the pasROO!'. finally, cut off a 4'¥," length of tile ~I rthcbottomblock(l)andwindow bIO<"k (J) 10 the same width as the chassis sengers an outstanding' view of ule passing roof stock Oeftfrom the engine. refer 10 rig. I I "11en. ('\II the bottom bl~ck (I) 4lY.I" scenery, I drilled live %" window holes 6) and glue all tile pieces together. COT 4-\~"·\ONG OOOf laOM BLANK
~
9
WINDOW BLOCK
r
MADE FOR ENGINE
WINDOW -BLOCK
/
1---' (SH IIG. 91
GLUE DOWN 1~'" FROM
-FAONJOF
CHA$5IS
I
DRIll. \'i"·l)tA. HOLES
THROUGH BI.()(K FROM 80TH Slo.,ES
BARREL CAR , xi, Ibuiltabarrclcar.
Irs designed to hold rned w(>o(!enbarrels. (See page 2'1 for urces 01the barrels.) R\Clt To make the barrel rack (1<), cut a - BARRELRACKS
pieceoilIA"'lhick stock l~" wideand "I!VII;" A.')5EMIl~Y. Now. glue the pieces to the long. see Fig. tt, Next. drill four V'-dia.holes chassis so ihey're parallel to each other and centered on the width.And then(ut%'·wide 0/8" apart. This allows the ribs on the barrels strips off both edges of the blank. to rest between tha racks. 'tr'.nwt(N INSIOIE OF RACKS
11
BARRELRACK BLANK
l/....-THICK
WASTE
STOCK
J
__.J
GLUEOOWN 1J.." fROM
-FRONT OF CHASS1S
CABOOSE \Vhal WOuldIlle end of a train be without a .:aboose? All the parts fOI' Ihe caboose are similar-to pieces made for the other cars, U(I'ITO~I BLOCK.Startby cutting a bottom hlock(L) the same size es onthe passenger car and glue it to the chassis. see Flg.12. \\l:
'".65
12
CAB@
f~"'''X 11,'1- x
11,,\".
CUTTWO [ .. ··LONG -ROOF
PI£Cis
..-- WINDOW SECTION (~4")t 11n'! x 4);t")
WINDOW DETAIL
BOTTOM BLOCK (~' .." "- 1~." X4~;4")
\Voodsmith
17
Train Track A good way to start is to make ~ight straight sections ~'I.)and eight curved secThe train can operate On its own, or you Can tions (B). (EighrcuI'Vesare needed to make make a track for it. By making both curved a complete circle.) This makes a good size WIdstraightsectionsoftrack, YOIlcan create layout, and you can add more sections later a wide variety of interesting layouts.
PREP_RING STOCK
1
CURVED TllACK
}
2 ClAMP~NGLtOf22'n·) SToP BlOCK TO AUXILIARY
'ENC(~
NOTE: All StOCK I,,!" THICK
CUnlNG
THE CURVES
After the miters are Cut on the ends ufaH the curve blanks (B). you can set up to cut the inside and outside arcs. PIVOT JIG. To accurately cut the outside arcs, I made a pivot jig that sits on top of the band saw. Begin making the jig by cutting. 14" x 18" pivot board from a piece of V." plywood or Masonite.see Fig. 3,
3
4
merger with another railroad line), cvr IUANKS. Begin making the track by culling blanks from 1'2" stock for the straights (A) and curves (8), $ee Fig. I. ~llTER CURVES.Before cutting the curve pieces (8) to their rounded shape. I mitered the ends ofthe blanks. see Fig. 2. To do this, attach an auxiliary fencte to the miter gauge and set the miter liduge at 22Vl. Then miter (me end of all the blanks, To set up tocut the other end, tum one of the blanks end-forend and clampastop block to tile auxiliary fence, see Fig. 2.Adjust Ihe stop to trim oft the blank so it's l07/i1"long on the shortslde, \ SfT MlltA see Fig.!. Then cut all the curve GAUOE AT 2:2:"". blanks (B) to lhis length.
Next. drill. I-ll" pivot hole centered on the width of tile board and I" [rom the end. To help position the blanks on the jig. nail a I071fj"·longtenceto thejig so thejin'edge of the fence is 12v.."from the pivot hole. Now set one of the curve blanks on I,Qpo{ the jig and align the ends-of the blank with tile fence, seeFig, 4. Drive small nails atboth ends 9f the blank to holdit in place. USING 11tEJIG, To cut the outside curve. I set the jig on top of my circle jig (see Woor(!1»!iIIlNo. 51). Or,just clamp a piece of:v.."plywood
you use the plywood base board. drive a nail through the hole in the pivot board and into the baseboard. (BesureloaJign thenailwith the front edge of the blade.) \Vith a Curve blank in place On the jig, swing the pivotboard through the blade and cut o(flhe outside arc of the curve, see fig. 4. (Save the waste piece from the end of the pivot board, It's used On the next step.) c;lltINS1D); ARt'S. After cuttinglhe outside arcs on all the curved pieces and sanding of( the tooth marks, you can cmt the inside arc s, To do this I used the curved waste piece (that was cut o(f the end of the pivot board) as a fence. sec Fig, 5. Posidon the curved piece 2%" from the inside ofthe blade. (This will cut a curve section VIS"oversize. After to your band saw sanding, the curves should end IIp~\e same table. S('e fig. 4. width as the straights- 2:tt6".) If you're using-the Go ahead and cut all the curve sections to circle jig. position width.Then sand theinsldeedge (removing the pivot poinl16" at least V16'~so the curved sections match [rom the blade, If the width of the straightsecuons,
5
rRACKa~K
CUT INSIDE ~~ I
ctAMP CUAVEO FENCE 2.~." fRQMlLAD£
CtAMP ~... PlYWOOD BASe
CJRCL£JIG TO aAND SAW
18
W@0<.1snlith
No. 65
-
RABBEnlNG
EDGES AND ENDS
To pro'idc:-. path for Ihe train's wheels to
track. refer to photo below. ~1lI. rabbets are cut on both edges of ihe To set up (or culling these rabbets. first lr.ICk. To do this. raise a ~" rabbet bit ~" mount a IlVJ6"·wide dado blade on the saw ..bc,vr the router table. Then rout the top and auach an auxiliary fence to therip fence, ~.,.oiall track pieces. see Fig. 6. see FiEt, 7a. Then bury the blade into the P.II RA8Kf:l'S.Next, to join thesectionsof auxiliary fence so 0/4' is exposed, II'I><'It together. connectors are made that fit Now raise the blade up to cut a rabbet exactly deep enough to align with the botWl
7
10m of the rabbets on tile edges, see Fig. 7. After the saw was SCIup, I rabbeted both ends oitlle straight track W USinga miter gauge to support the workpiece. On the curved track (B), I backed up the workpiece with curved push blocks. see Fig. 8. (To. make the blocks. trace the shape of the curved track onto plywood.)
8 ....00
BlAD.
D (UTtO
,
(
MATCH CU$tVE -e'_.-" ON TRACK
!
CONVEX PUSH ILOCK
'T-n--;
CON'-AV1 PUSH BLOCK
CONNECTORS Join the pieces of track together. small ",n,,<,!01'Sare made. These connectors are 'wll rectangles ot Masonit~ thai fit under t", end rabbets in the track, see photo at ;!ilLThere arc two dowels in each connecor 10 fit in holes in the track. UJI-N.EcroRs. Stan making the connector'S (C) by cutting small rectangles of 11.1"· ick Masonite the same width as tile track 1:' 1""). see Fig. 9. As (or the length of the onnecrors. they're trimmed down so "1're Vt6"less than the distance between ., rabbets on the ends ofthe track pieces. 111, makes it easier for small fingers tQ as"''I!Ible the track pieces. ~E'rt'p H'R ORILUNG. Next, set up the drill , -ess to drill :Va" holes in the connectors and ~"traCk. To dothis, make a holding fence b) nailing two stop blocks 10a piece of2x4. Position the blocks so the connector fits nugly between the stops, see Fig. 10, '\fowclamp the 2x4to the drill press table " 3 fence, Position the fence so the bit is
9
CONNECTOR
.I.- HOLE.. ), ... OEtP
[),
),." OOWtt. \," LONG
f
centered between the stol> blocks, and the fence is %" from the point of the bit. ORlLLTliECO)''NECI'ORS.Now drill %"dia. holes, ~6' decpon both edgesoftheconnectors (C), see Pig. 10. When drilling, push the connector tight against the fence. ORlL.LTI·IE TRACK.To drill the ni.tehing holes in the track. usc the same set-up, except you have to add a ¥4"·thick spacer to iii under the rabbet in the end of the track, sec Fig. 11. The trick here is to cut the spacer 1¥i6" wide (which is VI~" wider than the length ofthe rabbet Onthe end of the track). Wben thetrack is pushed against the spacer. (he hole will be positioned to create a gap between the ends o( the track. (Again, this is to make iteasier to assemble.) DOWELPII'o'S.The last step in making the connectors is tocut W'·long dowels and glue them into the holes in the connectors, see Fig. 9. TRACKSllAPES. The track can be layed out in a variety of shapes, especially if more
_,
10
pieces are added. However, one layou; mighl cause a problem. Ifyou make a sharp "5"shape, the irain'scars will probably bind when going through lhe "double-twist" curve. To prevent binding, add a straight section as a transition between the two C· cl
11
./
SAME DRfLLPRfSS
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65
Woodsmitb
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19
G 1F T
PROJECT
Oval Box The beauty of this oval box is the be·veled,eclge mirror that inspired it. The challenge was to figure out a way co make the box fit the exact shape of the mirror.
O
vals are ple'asing shapes - bUI very difficult to draw. When Idecided 10 make an oval box. I bad rwo choices.! could get all oval template from all art Sl()re. Or. I could trace something that already had an oval shape. The choice was easy when I ran across a source (or a beauti(ul beveled-edge oval mirror. seesoerceson ]lIlll~24. Wilh the mirror in hand.I made an oval box that matched its shape. 'lnis involves making a template to cuta recess in the lid for the mirror. While I was at it.I used the same template to rout a malching oval recess ill the base. Design Note: If you don't want to use (he mirror. but still want to make a box with an oval recessinthe base.just gel an oval templaiefrom an artstore and trace the shape On a piece or ~I"Masonite. Then cut it out and sand it as shown in Slep 8 on the next page, There's another option. too. You can make a rectangular box On the outside and
20
only rout the oval inside the base.Thisgives ~I!\RK~IIRROR.Now you can uSClhefolds yOUa few more options (or adding a !:Dlving in the paper to mark the points where the or inlay to the lid or the box.' . axis lines meet the edge of the mirror. see
MAKING THE TEMPLATE Okay, back to the mirror and template. Til make atemplate to rout a recess for themirror, the first step is to trace the shape or the mirror on a piece o( paper, see Step 1. FOW ON AXES. In order to align the oval shape on a template.you have to determine the two axes of the oval.There's a neat trick to do this, JUSt hold the paper up to a light. sec Step 2. '11'l~Iighl allows you to see the oval curve on both Sides or the paper, Adjust the paperuntil the curves align, and (old the sheet in half. The (old linc indicates one axisofthe oval. Fold thesheetin halflheothel'way to get the other axis, (Ihese axis lilies are particularly important tor aligning the oval in a reetangular box.) Woot.1smirh
Step 3. tAy OlIT TEMPI_lJE .... Jter marking' the axis lines en tbe mirror. the template can be cut (rolll a piece of 14" Masonite. (The template shown in Step 4 is sized to accept the ovalrnirror.) After <,utting the template to size. mark two cross lines. see Step 4. Now align the marks on the edge o( the mirror with the cross lines on the template, see Step 5. To hold the mirror steady, use" pieceotdoublesided carpet tape to attach uto the template. GUIDE BUSHING
The idea or alllhis is 10usc the oval shape of the mirror to make a guide template ror a router. This template is then used ,villl a guide bl~.hillgthat's mounted to the base o( the router, see Step 6.
No. 65
Almost all router manufacturers offer a guide bushing (or template guide) that fits on the base.of their router. This guide bushing extends below the base of the router so it can nib againsttheedge of a template. The idea is for the guide bushing to follow uie shape or the t~mplatc while the router bit (that fits inside the guide bushing) actually does the cutting. There's one consideration here, The router bit cuts a path that's i,(si
bushing, see Detail ill Stept;. (f you want an ."(lct fit. make the template ~"Iargerth.n the mlrror.However.l made the template !/s" larger than the mirror. This creates a I>:rl' space areund the edge 01 the mirror to allow for expansion of lhe wood around the mirror. see SICP 7. Shop Note: I used a piece of cardboard to trace the line va" outside the perimeter of the mirror. See $hbp Notes On page 12 for more on this technique. cm-ro SIIAPE. To complete the template, cut out the inside to rough shape with either • sabre saw or a coping saw, Then sand the edges smooth right up to the marked line
with a dl1l111 sander mounted iu your drill press, see Step 8. INDEX HOI.ES. This template will be mounted to the lid, and then to the base to routouttheoval shape. Toalign thetemplate on both pleces.l drilled tWO¥IG" index holes. seeStep9. These holes are also used taterto locate and drill holes in the lid and base for indc~ pins to keep the lid from slidingoffthe base. refer to Fil!. 14. FlNtSH.lfinished (he lid andtheoutsideof the oval box with General l~nish~' TwoStep Sealacell system. After finishing, 1 added a piece of felt to UI., inside bottom of tile box.
NOTE: HOlD
MI•• O. ON
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np
FOLD PAP£~ INTO QUARTIRS
~'N
TRACING PAPER
TRACE
AUGN
AROUND
MIRROR
PERIMETER OF MIRROR.
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("qatl! tll£ I,Q/Wra tl(/I'('(I/ign mirro: To civlel'm,iJleIII.t"·OIUI'. 0111" (11111/. 01)tiudl'QClldllllllillr. Thru lI~raJN,1 hold poPCo"'pto II ti{lM (",il ulig>l Iltl! llap .. ·.Then tmce ((1'OlIllIlIlw 1)/1>'i",ele>'of (·un·es, Tltt" fold 1)("I~ri/I half to flBI olle til) p~1Ito mark: wl,ere tl!(J a:r.is lilies I(mrl!
1
1'0 "wk" /I t~1II.p11"I!/OI'(UI 1)""/ mil" ror. IffY th« mirror nl' (I :,!,e-et tV·
the ))firro;'loith
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(I.ri s, Fold it t/teollwl'
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STRAIGH't
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BIT
ALIGN MARKS ON MlRRO.-
V4-·THtCK M,A,SONITE
WITM CENTtR UNES
is madeouui]« pieceof To (,Iign the min'!),' 19 >Iwj,clllile ?>1((i'ks IIw edge oj'the '>1M 'li.ITel'enre between by -I Vt' wi,ui tmd u.e a 8qllO 1'6to cen011
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FINISN SANDING
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UP TO UNE WITH .. UM .SA ••
TlACr AROllND PERIMETtR OF MIRROR
DRill lWO ;1." INDEXrNG HOLES
USB 7 li>lB
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f/~"o,Wn,u Ihe perimeter
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min·or. (1f,~'f\ilo",S"I.n" fa>, tli« b1Lskin9 pl'tts V$<~l"a)'Ou"lut mirrorfor eX'l'(' 1l.s1ml..)
No. 65
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To «l¥tllthe (,(mt.plat~,dJ'ili -Y'8·-dia. lIIith a sab"e sow QI' index hol.es OI./lOlk lind. of the lOllY cl¥f)ing .~(tW.Tnen. sa,,,,l cQTefi'Uy '''P to the a~is. Gente)' the i1ldl1>.·hole. "1,."1>'0'" the edge oj'tlle
8 ttie temp/ate
Woodsmith
9
Zl
r PREPARE THE BLANKS I slatted building the box by cutting a blank for the lid (1\) from ~" stock to match the size oC the template, see Fig, 1, The base is made by gluing ijp two pieces a :v.1"·thid< base (B), and a ~"·t:hick bottom (C). Shop Note: [fyoucan find 6/4 stock (that is 1!V16" thick), you can cut the base out of a solid piece ratherthan laminating twopieces together, (See Sources, page 24,) lAMINATE. If you have to laminate two pieces to get the thick base. cut both pieces a little oversize, Then glue them together. WheD me glue is dry, trim the edges down to final size, MMIl< PIECf,s, BeCOreproceeding. I sandwiched the template between the lid and the base blank, see Fig. 2. Then] drew a carpenter's triangle onthe end ofthis assembly. This triangle helps align the pieces when drilling the holes for Ille alignment pins. refer to Figs, 3 and 4.
2
,("1 ~,!,
BAse
ALIGN lOGES OFAUP1K6'
MAAK END WrTH CAJtPfNltA'S TRIANGU
BJ.ANK 'A"
@~.
NOTE:
BOTTOM, BJ.ANK ....
Gl.Ut AND ClAMP aonoM TO &ASE
DRILL INDEX HOLES The next step is to drill holes in the lid and base Ior the indexing pins. HOLES '1'1 uo. Start by lifting the lid and template off the base, Then Bip these two pieces over so the templale is facing' up and lape them together. see Fig, 3. Now with • :¥.6"-dia. bil, drill holes I'.'l" deep into the lid at.each end USingthe holes in the template as a guide. HOl.ES IN BASE. Repeal this procedure on the base.Justptace the template On the base so the sides of the carpenter's triangle ali!,,," properly, SL>C Pig,
3
ltMPLArE
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.
"
OR.... 3,-'0" ttOU!
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4
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TtMPLATl
ROUT RECESS The index holes are used first to align the template to the lid to rout a recess Cor the mirror, see Fig, 5, Tap index dowels ~t6'" dia) into the holes, butdon'tglue them in. ROllI'UD R£Cf.$, To rout out the recess in the tid, use a 11.1"straight bit and R 1/,0;" guide bushing, Set the bit deep enough so
5
1NDEXING PJNSMUSl
SETBilOW TOP OF
will be 6ush with the edge of the lid (about a :VJ2"·deeprecess). Remove the waste by plunging the router into the center of the lid and moving it in a clockwise pattern until you reach UlC perimeter ofthc template. see fig,S. When you're done, there should be 3%2"· the (ace of the mirror
6
wide lip inside the edge of the template. see
Fig. 6, The mirror should fit inside lhis lip with about 10:32" space all around. ROllf S,ISF.,Next rout out the base of the box the same way, but to a depth of 1".1 did this by making a series of passes about V.," deep each lime, see fig. 7.
a(c-£ss INllO ~~l"'WU>E UP -
TEMPLATE
I
NOTE: TO-CUT FUll O£PTHMAK£ S'EVERAl PASS{.S
22
Woodsmith
No. 65
SHAPE OUTSIDE OF OVAL Allhi~ polm, the inside of the box is complete. The next step is to shape the outside of the box to an oval shape as well. "fR.,\CEOVAL. Theprocedureisto layoutan oval ,.bape on the outside of the box a little latglir than the inside oval, To 00 this, Iused a compass to trace the shape of Ihe oval on the lid. Set the compass points !Y$" apart.
8
Then place tile point of Ihe compass in Ihe recessed oval in the lid and trace the shape. see Fig. S. C1.1I'UD 1"0 SlltlPF.. Now CUI the lid 10 rough shape on a band saw and sand it carefully right up 10 the line with a drum sander or on a bell sander, cur Il~S£.1"OSHAPE.Afler 'landing the lid
10shape. place ilon the base using the index pins to align the lWOpieces, see Fig. 9. Now usethe lid asa templateto trace tlre oval onto the base. and Cui it out 10 rough shape on a band saw, S."NIITOUNE. To gel the base 10 the same shape as the lid. sand them together with a drum sander oren a bell sander. see Fig. to.
10
9 SIT
POINTS
~,
APAftr
( SETUD ONA
ONTO AtlGN "X" MA~j(S ON UD AND SASE
STArJONARY &ElT SANDEa
lIAS'
SHADOW LINE AND EDGE PROFILES 111e oval box is complete ar thls point excepI for rouLing profiles on the LOPedge of the Iid and the bouorn edge of the base. SHAI}OWLINE. However. before I did that. I added a shadow line between the lid and the base. IfeiLherpiccc warps. this line adds enough depth So the crack between the tid and base is nOlSOvisible. AUXIUARVFENCE.T" rouL this shadow line. mount a itl" slrajllht blt to the router table and set the bit h2" high. see rig. na. Then Iclamped an auxiliary fence (a piece of :v.t" plywood) (0 thefront of the router table's regular fence. Now 111m01\ tile router-and slide the auxiliary fenceinto the bit to rout an opening the width of the bit. To reut theshadow line, tum the routerou and adjust the fence so the bit extends h2" out. see Fig. lla. Then roul a rabbet on the tol' out8ide .dge of the base only to produce the shadow line. refer loYig. 14a. ~OUNO OVllR 1111510£ £00£. After rOulin!! the shadow line. 1 switched to a \/,j" roundover bit and rounded the inside edge of the base, see Fig. 12. OImJUF.I'ROAt.£S.11lC outside edges of the base.and the lid can be routed to several shapes. [ used a 1At" round-over bit. to achieve a simple and graceful look. (Before USing other bits, check rhat their profiles won't curinto Ihe holes for the index pins.) INDEl
No.6;
11
a. AUX.
fENCE __
~,,,
12
If."
ROUN,O· OV~Ran
~ STRAIGHT BIT
13 ROUT PItO'ILf
ONlOP O~UD ANt> ao'nOM OF eASt
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.
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CROSS SECTION CHAMftR TOP roGEOF PfNS
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INDEX PJN,S
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-~ \, Woodsmith
23
SUPPLIES
PROJECT
-
(]
Sources ROCKING HORSE
~Voodsmith Proleet Supplies is offering a full-size pattern and the hardware needed 10 build tile Rockiog Horse shown in this issue. 'l'h~pattern provides cutting diagrams for all wood and leather parts including instructlons on (onningthe leatherinlO the saddle and addi'!l(tllt) bridle. ·765-150 ROCkingHorse Pattern $7.95 .765-100 Rocking Horse pattern \'V. Hardware KiL.,...$-19.95 (I) Full Size Pattern (25) I" Nails (Ovalhead. Stainless Steel. Spiral-Shank) (25) :1'4" Staples to attach the mane and tail (2) Craft Glass Eyes (brown), 24mm dia, (approx, t") (1 Skein) 4-Ply Yarn (brown) (20) #8 xlv.." Screws (16) #8 x 2"~ews (:l2) %" Wopd PI ugs (or Screw Holes (1) Pre-Cul Leather Saddle (2) Pre-Cut Leather Ears (I) I" x 18" leather Cinch
Strap (t) ~l"x 7'2" Leather Bridle
Stl'llP (2) ¥I" di a. Nickle-plated O-rings For Bridle (2) I" x 10" Dowels Other suppliers (or the leather-and craft. glass eyes are listed below. Look for code Rl! following their address.
TOY TRAIN \Voodsmilb Project Supplies
is offering the materials and finish on the Toy Train and hardware needed to build the Track project. Ordinarily. I like flve-car'Toy'Traln and Track rea- to use a salad bowl finish OJlIOY projects, bru (or the train I di:;tured in this issue. Other suppliers who carry toy covered this finish was just 100 train partsare listed belQw.Look thick 10 se~f!in and around all (or the code 7'1' (ollowing the the small parts of the train. Insupplier's name. stead. we used a finish called .765-200 Flve-CarTraln, Preserve NULOil and found illO Parts Only ¥ $6.95 bean ideal Iinishforfhe train set. The kil above includes all the Preserve is a blend of natural parts (bill no lumber) needed 10 oils (rom exotic nut meats and build five train cars: provides an excellent. non-toxic (22) I !!.til x 7/16" Wheels finish (or toys as well as bowls (24) II." Wlleel Axle Pegs 81ld wooden kitchen utenslls. (1) %" x I 1ft' Smoke Stack There are other finishes ~lal will also provide a non-toxic fin(tenon filS v.," hole) ish and are still thin enough to (1) 11.1" Dia. Dowel. 6" long (4) Oil Barrels now over the small train parts. .765·225 Five-CarTrain, TwoOflhese-Generall'inishes' Parts & Lumber $18.95 Two-Step Sealaeell System and 11lis kit contains all the parts \ValCo's Danish Oil - arc both listed above. plus the lumber non-toxic when "<'tired: (Accord· (maple) to make five cars: ing to their manufacturers, this (1 pc.) 3~." x 17"::!f.j"·lhick can take from IWO 10 (ourwceks.) (2,pt"$.)3iY.,1I x 17": ~".thick Non-toxic finishes for the toy (I pc.) I'r.!" x lll": 1I."·lhick train project are available (rom .765-250Train Track Part, \Voodsmith ProjectSupplies. .& Lumber $39.95 orfrom the SOurces listed below. This ki t contai llS enough Look (or me code NT (oliowillJ( maple to produce eight curved thesupplier'sname. and eight straight track sections. 0765-275 Preserve NUl Oi.1 (81)<'5.) :WIG" x 12'; 'r.!"-thick Flnish, 8-oz $8.95 (8 pcs.) 4" x 15"; II.!"-lhick •51j!..203Generall'inish",,' (16 pcs.) ~16"xlYI6" Ma- Two-Step System $10.95 l>'l Pint Step Ifl (Sealer) sonae; 114"-\hick (2) :Vs" x 12" Dowels ~ Pint Step "2 (Finish Coal)
ORDER INFORMATION BT MAIL To order by mail. U$~I"" form on the protective cover of $ current issue or write your order on a piece of paper. and send il with your check or money order. (Please include $1.50 shipping charge with each order.) IA residents add 4% Sales la-x. Sendorder Ill: Woodsmith ProjectSupplies P.O. Box 10350 Des Moines, IA 5'0806
24
NON·tOXIC FINISHES You will want to use a non-toxic
ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES
BY PHONE For faster: service use our"1'911
Free order line, Phone orders can be placedMonday through Friday. 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
csr.
Before you call. have your VISA or Master Card ready.
1·800.444·7002 AIJow,~
OVAL BOX The materials needed 10 build the Oval Box am available (rom \Voodsmith ProjeetSupplies. The oval mirror and silicone sealantcan be ordered using the numbers below'. (We recommend using Dow's silicone sealant to attach the mirrors since some other silicones may damage the silvered backs) ·765·300 (1) 3" x 5" Beveled Oval Min'Or $5.115 0765-305 (3-0z.tube) Dow Silicone Sealant (enough to altach 8() to 100 mirrors) ... $3.29 Also available are lumber kits in your choice of several differenc hardwood .species, Each kit includes the followingilcOls: (1 pc.) 4~" x 6I;'i'; "'l"·thick lumber (to make the lid) (1pc.) 4~"x 61'2"; t'Vu;"·thick lumber (to make the base) (l) :VI6" Dowel. 4" long '765·310 Oval6Qx. Kit of Lumber - Oak $7_95 •765·320 Oval Box. Kit of I,.umber- Wainul .........$8.95 ·765-330 Oval Box. Kit 01 Lumber- Cherry ......... 58.95 0765-340 Oval Box. Kit of Lumber- Padauk ......,.$12.95 (Padauk is an exotic, redorange hardwood that turns deep maroon on exposure to sunlight, Padauk's sawdust can be irritaling. so using a dustmask is advised.)
(Q Ii looeJ,:t1/oJ'(if'/foo'71. ;Vri/.f>: 1-"'4'ct!J *~(bier.tto cJla.1!g(! "jl.,' 9/90.
Simiim·/w1'(J.wa.'II a>ld SIIp/JUes nuty bejm,.td in lite j'ol/m/li?IU catlliogs. Htnseuer st!lies a11dllizes ?)W,IIvary.
PIdJ.se,-e!el'to eackc(J.ia/t:lufol' orde"i"U ;>lfn)'mati.m~ Van Dyke's Restorers Cherry Tree Toys, Inc. P.O. Box 278 Woonsccket, SO 57385 ....... Rli
P.O. Box 369 Belmont, OR 43718 ....... T'T, NT Tandy Leather \Voodcrafl Supply 1'.0. Box 791 P.O. Box 1686 Fort \Vorrn. TX76101 ...." .... 8H Parkersburg. \VV26102.T1·. NT Sbopmith, Inc. Bridge City Toot Works 393lltnage Drive 1104 N.E. 28th. Ave. Dayton. OH 45414..........T1~ NT Portland. OR 97232 NT
Woodsmith
No. 65
