Woodsmith - 054

NO. 54

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•

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NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$3.50

Sawdust Dec:emOer; 1987

EdIIo< 00n.Id B. Pesdtke

0es9> Oirflt1Ol Ted Kra'icek ""_E
OouglasLHicks Douglas M. Udster

I'I'()jt!d 0059'""

Ken Munkel

T~

IlII4lIIIDlS David Kteyling cary Christensen RodStoakes Chris Glowacid

Cusbner SeMoo Sandy Baum, Mgt. Vk:IIy Robinson

Jadtie Stroud PatKoob ~Oper_

Ken MIne<

AdI,IiIiSt'aII"'Asa1 Cheryl Scott

&-.gMal1lenancl Archie Krause

The \Voodsmith Store Operel...". Steve Krohmet Marltellng MaMgfW Steve Oozlet

AdrnnoslrolN9_

Christel Mine<

Slot. ManageB $I t..ous. MO Jon Belvte San Nil IClSOO. CA Michael DeHaven 005 MoInes. II. Kent Welsh WOODSMfTH (ISSN 0164-41141 IS publIShed bimonIhIy (Febluary Ajri. June "". gust, OcIober, December) by v.oodsmI:h Publishing Co. 2200 Grand Ave. De MoInes. IA 50312 Woodsmlth IS a regIStered trademark of WoocIsm,(h Publlsh,ngCo. Copyright 1988 by WoodSmith Publishing Co At, Rights ReselVed Subscrlptions: One year (61SSU9S) 512.95. Two Years (12~) $22.95. Canada and Foragn add $2 per year. U.S. funds only. SIngle copy pnce, $3 SO. Second Postage Paid al Des MooI8S IOwa Postm.ster: Send Change of address notICe 10 INoodsIl1iIh f'ubIosIwlg Co, 2200 Grand Ave Des MoInes IA50312. BACK ISSUES: All back issues of II\bod$rnoIh are SIll avaolabie. For a I\'ee bookIaI descnbJng the con!en1s and pnces 0( all back l$SU9S. Just send us your name and address 10 the address above. SAMPLE COPY: We w,n be happy 10send a 'ree sample copy of ~ 10anyone you think wouldenjOy II. Just send ushlS/her

C'."

name and address.

z

AIIOUTTHIS IS»l'E. U~uaJly al tlw beginning of a projt'<"1one (Ifthe primary con.,id· "",00114 '" 110", It'Sguing to look. \Ve spend ""ru.ld era ble ume maklng"ure the properti',"" look ngill. und aU Ihe d",ign detaili work tol(elh('r Onee Ih,' ,h'''llll i, finali,.ed. the next consideration I,J"ln~ry - how do you join all th .. pil'<.'·. l"lwllll'r U, make them look the WilY you inlended' Tho of th" projc'Cl.< in this issue tthe C..,untry Bench and the Mkrowa .....Cart) lM.'jIlUIlnth.· .....verse of IhL' "'''IU""..,. The d""gDS "r th_ pruj<.'Ct.>.nlrl>t from the bel.'IlUI1II~.dept·nded • j(f't"dl deal on the JOI~r')' ~\nd ,,'hat seems mw-l curiou...... L..,; the J01net) .. e ch<>oe (or eaeh proje"'" is <~I).... Ia~.bul rentun.., apan. Bolh 1''''~0'rt.8 use knoek-down joUlI.". Th~ Cuunl~ a..nrh uses oneof the oId_ ".I'>',OIIll (a I"'yen m"rtl,;e and tenon). ,,1UIe lhe M";",,,,u,,' Can u.""" a modem version (J;;urul"'an ",nn""tor bolts). 1'h.·u"'· ofknock .. I"" n hardware is gain. Inl( 8«:'·1113n('('. It·" not so much a re fiection or our ,ul",r·mobih· S(J('icty that requires portable furnnu ...•• II. il i••"",t and timeS3\'lng nulJlufu('t'lnllg procedure, Much "f Ih,. har«wllre come~ from ~;ur",", - "art,cularly l\'e,'1 Germany. \\'t!'\'l· i:M"4.'ngl"lttnJ,t tn(ln- int~n>!'t-tt-'(Iln it. and .. nee .\"";1&1>'1It) In the l .S. L' g~ttmg

f:K,tt~r.,,~ ",11 p ...>bahly inclwjp it in mn.... prujects IIIthe fulu,,' The other ""Ie o( the coin '" the old fashlonerl v.a) t(. rn.a.Iu- Jmodc:-dO\\'1\ join!. ... - a k~yed mortISe and ...nun. \\ith all due "'I1'.rn to the "n
,,><'ed

ffilKJE'rn

('C)nnecto~. f "'ould tim.' lAl 11...., a chisel and

knock-()u" n

",lh"r tak.· Ihl' hand tool. to makl' morti.., and tenon joint..-;, It'~~, Int m(J~ (un, PRI('E INC'IIF.ASE. For the pa,t'lf, i. in the .... t ,,( ,,,,,·r. "nnlAng. po>tage. and JUA about .. \(·~'thlng..L", ha., (urred 11.< to rai.", the subscnpt.", pnce. TIle 11(''' .ul...'npt".,., pnce o( 11·,,,Jd.,,,,1I .. $t!.9a fur un. y..ar (si. b...;ue:;). or ~).!t; (or t"" y ....... Ct.. , L<:
'v~

.r... I<'tfb~tJ/U'lmrc IN,.,...,.,.....

l·osn. "'ON R'''~'ntlyone o( our eom-

•

petnors uh .... hu,", uf nOOd magazine) inlruri ....... 1 a 11('" l'ul~""'lion (orwoodYi1lrk· ers. Ir.CIllk,II~\ I k••uIII(N.t"",ri.:illg Proj('('t.~.

u.uulJ),. I w"ulol ""I'laud any new publication bt'l!3U",·llhlnk it'. important to have II> much choil'I'""~ variety"" possible. The ns provide. a "'t..-aJth (j( new lnform:lllc,n kJld KJE"3S. Th<' prohl"m wuh lhl...ne\\ publication is thaI u... ,jilT.·...."""" an:-n\ as great as they Mou~lhe '·1\1U... ·.~lh3th&p"'} ect. for .. ,... I..or!ten one that'~24 ~ lonl('. printed In t ..0 eolers {brown arid hla<:kl, uses a """",.I"rM paper, '" threehole puodled Cor~'t' in a binder. ba., • prolI'
six limes ..

~·t'ar.~MI

contains no

arI,,·rt"mg 11.~'I!thut lI<>tInd (.mili:.r? \\'cU, it', at.... tlw fonnlll th... ,'<1,10"" of 11'_1 chose (or their new IlUbli(·,llll,n.And lh3t'>lhe probI.m. If you " ....·",,1 • maiting piece that de«lillecllhi.'I new publication. do you think it "u1I1,1 ~:tu"" ".of" .. on? \\'e are CUlT<.'lItly involved ill a lawsuit to ""'''' er thut qUI...tiun. I don'tlike lawlluit,;. • But ...nrn it'" II ""Itt,... of principle and ctluo<. I (....·1 obli~'lIU-'I" ta!«. a .tand. Hu',\,,\ ,,·r.at'J', rtllt \\ ht'thf':r ( like it or not. The I""lokm is the t'OJ1l'u.
vooodw<>rl« ..... E,,~one ba., the light """". "hat heIAik'" buyu\!<.

lb

1\" J'l'('('I\'M ... \~raI rvLel arid leIter< in"" """It", ..ho Aid they had lM. ......ron(u....,rt Il) the m,wUlg pi..... fur !hi>

lie"

publico:x,n Th") " ......n\ -un. ,,""ther it

"a:- at:1ua11\,

{IJI'"

\,,,..,m-,,

II}

or

nut~or if

\\i"wI...", tl, ~ ll~J""llli.Jlillgit, Al.n~· "'t.<•. I wanu,lto mention all ofthu. "" lhat you'd lu..... whal·. jlUilig on.

subject. 1brri(' Noll h.", been the mallager of our .tOl~ in::;'", ,,'rllnci...'O (Berkeley). Califor· NKW FA(.:.:S 011 10 3 lij(hlcr

nia sint'\' hl..,t Rt'lllf'imbel'. She signetl

on

IIwn 10 h,·11'1101("1th~ ",ore up and TWlning tn II.., nt'" 1'K'....llc.ln, tlntl te)Jook for a perma .. nt'ntrrnu~l(t'r

Terri. did an oul>'tandml! job. And nov. ,he' ..... Iumlng to I...r •....at·job - making ru.
"""rg)'

\\'."ill cononu. to fulfill aU of the L,,,,,," him 3<' lhe nUUlllj.~·r,,( lh~ 1I'Ood.""Ii'1< store onyour cummt .ub.cnl,tion at the prite YI)U in !)(Ork,·ley.l'aJif"rnilI. oliginally paid 110" ever. when your subNEXT MAIIJNG. 'lb!. "",t i",me of Wood· llOipUnn oonll.'"due (or renewal. the new (N... flo''» "III IlE' mailed during the plioo ..iII",,,, Inlo effect. w~k of AprIl I. 1!)IqI.

",mil.

WOODSM'TH

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____ T_~s&Techmgu_e_s __ • ROUTER TA81.EGUAJU)

Here's a quick way toodd a removable guard to your router table fence. It'.simply a piece of clear V," plastic that fits in 3 saw kerf CU~

into the face of th~ f~nce. .

1b cut the kerf, set the table saw rip fence 1'I.-away from the blade and then lower the blade below the table Next center the router table fence aver the saw blade and clamp it 10the rip fence. Now turn on the saw and mi.", the blade up into the wood until ilS about 0/." above the

saw table, (Sill<:ethe blade is circular. the kerf will be semi -eireular, ) Next cut the baek edit" of a piece of V, plastic to mateh the arc of the kerf. (Youron probably lind a scrap of pL"lSticthis size at a local glass shop.) Then round the front edge SOthaL 3.' you push a workpieee along lhe fence. the guard keep" your finger.
until the excess paper around the edge; L< hole on Ihe top plate, m_'UI'C the distante free, but not enoogh to disturb the wood. from the front edit" of your workbench 10the nearedjle of an~'cloghole. Then transfer this Eliwbetll Vai",1 dimcno;ion 10 th~ LOp plate, The distance MIIIH'()('t>ille.[ ..diollll from the notch to the near edge of the dowel ,hould equal this dimension. Once this is laid 8ENeH EDGEVISE ClAMPS out, drill. hole for the dowel and glue it in plaee, AJ\.er seeing the commercially-available bench edjle vise clamps made from metal in ~'inally. 1j!lued a thin oork facing in tbe IV(,",hml;tlt No. 50, I decided to make a $CI. Mtclt to prot.ect the workpiece. Then make with some scraps of hardwood. They're a the second edge clamp" mirror opposite of convement way to hold drawers, frames, the til>;l. nod panels alongside the bench while pinning Rod'I('YC. lIa!(IJ~lIti and sanding. Blmd""oon. NSW, ,luslmllo SOCl(rT TEMPlATE

l've noticed that

often recommend in 11"JO(lsmitil10use a coin as a handy template to rnw'k 11 comer thllt'" 10 00 rountk>doff. (A quarter = about '11' radius, a nickel = about 1/1', radius, a penny = about '¥'i·radius. and a dime about 'I'", radius.]

EQUAL TO- DIStANCE

IflWUN RtONT ll>G< Of

"NOt

AND EOCf Of DOG ttOQ

2 •••

.oac

CORKfAONG

• To secure the guard. first mount a threaded insert into the top of the fence. 'Thencutoffa bolt that fits the insert and add a nul. and wing nut to one end. (Or use ~ thumb serew) Finall,); SCnlW the bolt down through the insert and through a hole in the pla.
The clamps an! ens)' to make, but they 00\''' to be mad. in a mirrored set, and custom made (or your .pt'Cift<: bench. 1b make a clamp, start by cutting 8 6"x 6" "
¥t1S1t Sugiya mo

R""ding. Coli/orllia DUSTl'ROOf

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)(00

PICTURE fRAMES

~r framing a picture, 1 lake the extra step of making the baek of the frame dustproofby covering it with brown IJOIJl('r. (A brown grocery bag works fine.) 1b do lhis, cut the paper a little larger than the frame baek. Then run a film of yellow woodglue around the back edge of the frame and press Lbepaper down smooth. Now with a damp sponge or a spray mister, moisten Lb. paper well and keep it face up unt.ilthe paper nod glue dries. ~'hen it's dry. the paper shrinks up drum tight. After the glue is completely dry, hold 3 sandingbloek ata,IS·angfe 10the back of the frame .'lad :;and through the paper. Sand WOODSMITH

l've found another convenient item -lhe sockets from my socket wrench set, The small increments between the different sockets yi"kl a large vOl'it'ty of l'lldii I.U choose from, Just ",.Id Lb. outside of the >
Col'(J/;""

SEND IN YOU' IDEAS

nyou'd like 10share e woocIWoI.'-dia. dowel is the largest the WoodsmitJ, bencll will QIWpt.) Then cut the dowel 5" long. 1b detennine the 10000lion of the dowel

readers of Woodsmlth, send yoo, Idea 10: Woodsmlth. Tips ,\ TecI1nlques. 2200 Grand Ave.. Des Moines. Iowa 50312. We pay. minomum01$10 for tips, .odSIS or more for spedal lecMlqoes (1It81a'8 a<:C
IorpU!)lldlrion).Please give a """",Isla.explana· tIon 01 your idea. " a skarCII is needed send It

aIon9j

wel.lfdraw a new 008.

3

Microwave Cart

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\<'" proilabI> ..tiUIdn\ I:Ut'M by r....t unprl'S""on,bul u....dem.; being .~ b)
""*

~ ~l"$ par\.nll••rI)' In \\O:.t German>: or lb(. runllt""" ,.~'", ""'11. IlK,,,, III • <1roI1g trend toward tb< "'"' or krM",h~~ .., n

It', not aI"''3~'HOnW<~lhe ,....". more portable. Th~u.~ of knork down eennorton< has oo.,.,rDe a ba.'1< JOInN,'ll'nneruR'S

- 0.... that', tIIlining """1>«11'1<"In lhe tI :-; a"i

well, In mo.l projl'C'lS, thl'''' an' a ",&M"ly or

I

joint..~that coolt! bt> ",;eel. Fur e'aml,I~, 0" Wi; cart you haVI' " tho;",· 1)( m,·I.hc.l. (or jt)inin~ tbe the .hpl".,. "fth.· Cl.rt 10thc'.id" f'r.uneto. You Cf.ulfl USf" rTwu1.i:lt' rul(1 ll'ntJn joints. or dowels, or ml,('h:lnit-a1knock-down CQIlnectOrs.

\V. chose the F.ul'Opron k,\CX'k·down eonneetors. ThPRl' connl'<'lm" Ill'(' InW'nioll")' .. mple. They eonslst 0(" ;;- \\ hich '" eertainlya lot """i.r th;mlJllCkjng~ mort;,..,_1 tenon joint, and p",b..bly "~'IC'rlruen u.o;ingdowel •.

&.,Jd,,,, Ihc.· £;11'1 that th.·\ "'" be knocked do" ... (' -.cmbl,,1 .;.n .Ii....... sembk-
I'lL ·).

1'-'

C'Uflfl<-ct<.'"

have o~ other r..... tlu"' 1-l'II13nfTIt joints lack. ~y CM he llJ:hl~l,,/j If the joint berrotnl"S IcKJl'K.' C)\-lor tlJrk" ((.r .., ~ relativp humid.t)' d"IfI!:''S "lth ~

""",-.on,).

A". ,,;th ~nyth1llg.t",· th,·." ~ trade-ofT~ to eongldt-r. I'...nmsnll·nt jotnL .. (like m.,rti.__~attff tt'nr)fll.r ,111\\" ' "'~ u.
••

",th

~.

",l1lVl

head 3 "",agl)nal _"'01 r"r tigluelllDl( \\ ith un Allen wft'lI(h 11>;lt ~ho\\$ on the 1l'UI'fart:. t \UtI em S(_"(' tht: head:; of these fl<'('t"... 111 tbe 1""'1<1thl'y're on the r tho, .~. rr,m,.", IThL'.

,.f

MATlRIA1S LIST

in ru.elf. i.... a (~]~1"J1n~''R-llll·.,.tIC.n. THf SIDE'RAMlS

or~. I coulcln'

u....,.. knock ....l(»\\ n"'I"III('('·

tors for e\,i'f')' j",nl on thi.~fUJ1. TIll'fnl jllm\.>;I had 10 make w ,,'(·lh.· 01\(" lei.!'''" the· piece> for the .i 10;(>(1). CUTSTIU!S. Th~ (I'lIm... con,,"1 ,,( tWII

s(;I"" (vert ••al P'(!C(!.)Hnd thrt~, rllil. (huri

4

0wt0I1~

CIITTlNG DIAGRAM

2CTd.2.V ....w.~ .. ·h

FromeSh"'(4, • Ftame.ul.(6) C hom Sh.., 10." ,.,

At

'·I•• 2....,.43'/, '*',••

,~,.

3·.....11 ..2S~

lit 2

D IockSfttHICJils(4)

'''''_.3-".15\.

E sn.K~tI(S2) , nom. Hond'-t (2)

'y. •• 1'""••• 17Y.. 't',. x 1~ • 20

G OoorHond&e(',

'31,••

H DoorSion(13) I Door kttom .«til tl)

'VI.xl'V,.-10

•

1'h-26R~

'¥t. x ,y,•. 26 Rough WOOOSMITH

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•

lil"St rut the four stiles (Al out of 4/4 stock ('¥.' actual thickness) to a width of 2\l,'

IlGUU I

2",2"f--IO"-~

and a length of 43'At·,see Fig. 1. Then mark

I rlr-

out the location of the mortises used to join the rails (8) to the stiles (A). LAY Otrr MORTISES. When marking the position of the mortises, I laid out the measurements on the fan of one of the sb1esfirst, see ~1J:.1. AD three mortises are 2" wide. The ones on the top and bottom of the stile are positioned ¥: from the ends, The mortises for the middle rail are positioned UV:from the top of the stile, see Fig. I. Th ensure that the mortises are marked out on aU four stiles in exa<:t1y the same position. clamp the four stiles together .... Fig. 2. Alter they're clamped together, square lines across the edges of all four pieces, using the marks on the face of the fIrStstile for the reference points. cor MORTISES. Now it's just matter of cuuing ""·wide mortises centered on the the stock, see Mortise Detail in Fig. 4. (I did this on a drill press by drilling overlappin!! holes with a ",. mortise biL) Then clean up the eheeks of the mortises with a chisel. (See lVood",nith No. 26 (or more on mortise and tenon join!.s,) C\JT RAIt.s. Alter the mortises are cut, 1 cut ouLthe six rails (B) for the side frames. These pieces are 3%' wide by 1T'long, see Fig. 3. Shop Note: The length of the rails ae· counts for the 15' needed between the stiles of the side frame - this is the shoulder-to- shoulder dimension on the rails, see Fig. 3. Then 2" is added to account for the 1'.long tenons on each end. C\JT'reNONS. AIter the rails are cut to ~i?.e, tenons are cut on each end to fit the mortises in the stiles, see Fig. 4. I cut the tenons by making overlapping cuts on the ends of the rails. These cuts, in effect, are like cutting wide rabbets on the ends of the rails, (Again, see Woobmilh No. 26 for

A•

1 ••

_.

FRAME RAILS @

'";

_r_::~

~I-r----:~

TlIf,I. tENON to H1' MORTISE OWS11lE",

--_/

~ @ FRAME RAIL

MOImSE

P£JAIL Ali

MOImSES I" EPQHTtUO ON THICKNESS

OfS1OCll

more on mortise and tenon joinery.) ROLI':S FOR SHELP. Before assembling the frame, I drilled a series of holes for mounting the adjustable shelf. (In the photo, thL. shelf is the second one up from the bottom of the eabinet.) The adjustable shelf is mounted with right-angle shelf support pins, refer to Fig. 15. These pins require 1I'.ma. holes 011the inside faces of all four stiles. 'll> mark the location oflhese holes, dryassemble the frames first, see Fig. 5. Then layout the location of the holes on the inside edges of the four stiles. see ~'ig. 1. The holes are ~. from the inside edge and

.'.. -

, SlOE FRAME

ASSEMBIl

2"apart oncenter,

•

ASSEMBLE SlOE I'RAMt:S. Afler the boles are drilled on the inside edges of the four stiles, the side frames can be assembled. Glue and clamp the mortise and tenon joints together. making suo c the frame" are square, see Fig. 5.

WOODSMITH

5

lIGUlE.

mPI

TMlSHUV£S

r SHElf SlATS 111SlAlSfIISHBfl

r

d ,.' © ~

P\AC(

FRONT

1ONG
-SHElf

f'-__ ro LAY OUT

IIAlL

"" fIIG' OIOIlOOVl

(4 "EelS)

_I

1

~:_-..JF' EOC£

_ ..

.....--."'.

__.

CUT IWO P'fta$ OF ¥o. PI.'IWOOO 10...... , ASS£MIIY

AGUJE 10

NOTE: DlIll BOlH fHDS Of

f'.ItONTt'IACtC SHtlIlAIlS EXCfPr AU

--j ,.

SItEII' .... lS

I WMJIOOH ... 0 Of IW. RUSH

Wmi IOIlOM mGt

6

.

IIAIIS roo ADJUSTAIIIf

,r--.lrn---, ",'

SHElF

The two side frames are held together by four she!"C$-and all four shelve", start out l!XlIctlylbe same "'ll!t' RAILS. To make the shelves. cut the front ralls CC) 2' wide and the back rails CO) 3Y.: wide. Then all 16 rails are cut to a rough length of 26"". SLATS.Also cut ALOWof 52 slats (E) (1:1 for each shelO out of 414 stock I""'... wide by 17V."long. (This length was determined so when the slats arejoined to lhe rail s. the rails will be the proper distance apart LObe centered on the stiles of the side frame. refer LOFig. 14.) 'roNGUE AND GROOVE.The slats art' joined to the rails with tongue and groove joints. Begin by CUlling rabbets on the end. of the slats to leave Yo"x 'Io"tonl,,,,es, see Step 1 in Fig. 7. (I cut a V.groove in a scrap and cut the tongues LOfit.) I.AYOUT GROOVES.Aft.er the tongues are cut. they can be used to lay out the positicn of the grooves on the front rail. (C). Hold a slat on tho rail so the tongue rests on the top edge, as shown in Step 2 in Fig. 7. Then mark across the botLOmedge of the sial to indicate the top edge of the groove. (\Vhen the groove is cut with this procedure. the LOpface of the slat will be Hush with the top edge of the front rail.) CUTGROOVES.Mer the mark i< made. position the bollom ffigr of the front rail agaln.'!t the fenee of the table saw and ndju.1. the rcnce:;otheo"t~i". of0'1,"-wide dadcset eets on the marked line. _Step I in Fi~.!l. '!'hen eut V'--\\;c)cgroove.' on all the front rail~(C). Leave the fente in the same position and cut the grooves on the back rails (O), making sure theboucm edge of the rail L~again.tthe fence, see Step 2 in Fig. 8. TRIM RAILS TO SIZE. Now the rails t-an be trimmed to final length. To do this, dryassemble the slats between the mils. I used pennies to get even spacing between the slats, see Fig. 9. (To keep the pennies in place, cut a couple of pieces of plywood ..< an assembly platform.) Now clamp the ~helf together and mark the end ufLhe rails so they're Oush witb the outside slats. see Fig. 9. Then cut all rails to the same len~h .

•

'I.

HOleS FOR CONNECTORS

Before ussembllng the shelves. two interoecting holes arc drilled in the ends of the rail. for lhe knoek-down eonneetor bolts and the cross dowels, DlllUJ1';G JIG. To drill lbe holes in the ends of the rnils [or the bolt. I made a simple drilling guide. Rip II4"·long scrap of 414 stoek 2" wide, and then cut orr a length about 1'1," long. see Vig. 10. Then drill a 'I,"-dia. hole centered on the width and thickness of this pieee, Now glue this piece LOlhe remaining strop. WOODSMlTH

•

•

DRIU, HOLF-S.Align the jig with the /xINo'" of a rail and clamp il ill place. Then drill a 'A"-dia. hoi. 2'1..' deep iJito the end, see Fig. 10. HOI.ES FOR CROSSDOWELS.!IIeXL.an intersecting hole is drill ..d on the bottom edge of each rail for the cross dowel. Agaill. mak... small d.illilll(j'l( III< shewn in Fig. U. and use it to drill holes centered IV,' from the ends. (Shop Note: Since these C'J~ dowels an- metric. the closest standard size i< ' bUI ''0,' "' oka),)

NOn,

AGlJU12

"'0'

AU.

SIAn""'"

A· ..• ROUNOOWItONAU.

11

ADJUSTA&I.fSHElF

routtEDG6

OO~T

ItOUHOOYU

ASstM8~E SH£LVI$

The 1""1step before a..embling the shelves b to round over all (our o.dges of the .tal., "ith a 'I.' rnuncl~\'er bit, _ Fig. 12. Also, round OVer all four edges of the back ruiJ,; (D). but only Ihn.>
CCl, see End

• USSHOUS

-

IN ENOOf SHElE UN" to lAY outHOUS 101

View in ~'Jg.12.

..........

AS.<;EIII81.\·. Now three of lhl'shelves can

be assembled. (The adjustable $belf needs a few more steps.) To assemble the Lhl'('(' shelves. plal'C Lh. ~~'LSon th .. plywood

•

asse mbly platform (spaee them evenly with pennies) and clamp t.ltit; assembly together, see Fig. 12.Then glue and clamp the rails to the ends of the slats. ADJUSTABlE SHet.f: Before the adjustable sbelf can be assembled it needs three more steps. First, the Iront and back rails have to be trimmed down by 1'- to allow fur the thickness of the shelf support pins, refer to l:lhelfSupport Detail in Fig. IS. Alter tho I"'.w,; tU'C trimmed down, I rounded over the ends, see }'ij(. I:t F'inall~'. since the rails are trimmed down in length. also trim I,"' off the two outside slats so the spacmg comes out right. You ean assemble lhe adjustable shelf now, but I waited until the whole cart was assembled to make sure the udjustable shelf would lit without binding;

A3UR IS

SHElf SUPI'ORT

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HOLES fOR CONNECTORS

To gel the basic carl assembled vdth the knock-down connectors. another ""lit'>' of holes is drilled in the side (mmt'll. I.M' OUTHOLeS.To layout tht>seholes.

•

first draw lines on the ends of the sh"lfraiJ,; centered on the hol.s for th... connector bolts, see Fig. 14. Then I~ylh(·.helf on Ih• • ide frame so the shelf rails are centered on the stiles of the side frame. Now extent! the eentertlnes (Into the face of the side frame $liles,""" Fij(. 1·1. After the eenterlines (Ire marked, also mark cross lines I' from the bouom, 2V!· from the lop, and 13' ,. from the top. see ~·ig.14.Then I used" Portulign to drill '/.dia. holes through the .1.110s. AS!U:MBI.Y. To tLssemble the shelves to the side frames, slide a connector bolt through the hole in the side Ji-u= and screw il Into the eros.' dowel in the shelf rail. see Cross Section in Fil(. 15. (lr the holes don't match up elUlrtiy, enlarge lh. hole in th~ rail. ) \VOODSMITH

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THE HANDLES

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At this point the basic cart is assembled and coukI be used "as is.' But I added some handles on the top edges of the side frames to make it easier to move around. CUT STOCK. To make the handles (F) rip two pieces of 414 stock 1W' wide by 21" long. see Fig. 16. IVhile I was at it, ( also made another handle (G) 26" long for the drop down door. Also, cut one extra piece as a test pieceROUT PROFILE. Now use the test pieee to determine the position of the finger groove on the handle. Icut this groove on the router table using a -diameter core box bit. see Step J in Fig. 17. Adjust the fence on the router table so when the bit is at a height of y.' the groove is right on the outside surface of the side frame (or door frame), "'fer to Figs. 16 and 19. After determining the position of the groove, cut it on all of the handles. Then switch to a ~. round-over bit to round the top corner of the handle, see Step 2 in fig. 17. And finally. round over the bottom edge of the finger lip with a y.,' round-over bit. see Step 3 in ~'ig. 17. MOIJNT HANOLES. After the fingt'r lip~ are routed. CUL the handles (F) to final length to match the width of the side fra~. Then attach the handles with glue and three screws, counterboring the holes and filling them with plugs, see Fig. 18.

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As an option.! added a drop down door. The oonstraction ofthis door is virtually identical to that of the shelves. RAn.s. Instead of front and back rail. however. the door has a handle (which has alreadybeen outland a narrow bottomrail, see Pig. 19. Cut the bottom rail (I) to a width of 'Y,.' and to a rough lenb
WOODS~{lTH

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TRill! SLATS. After cutting the handle

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and rail to length, dry-assemble the door using pennies as spacers between the :;l.~tI;, see Fig. 19. Now trim the ouutide two slats to mateh the length of the handle and rail. ASSEMBLY.As on the shelves, round over the edges of the slats. Then gu ahead and assemble the door. PLASTIC LAMINATE INSERT

Since the inside faee Qfthedoor is thesurCace that will be used as a work !1Ur£aee. (refer to photo on page 4), I decided to add plastic laminate (Fonnica) to tJW; face. ROUTRECESS. TO install the laminate, I routed a recess on the inside !'ace of the door. Use a router with an edge guide to rout a border around the inside face of the door. see Fig. 20. Adjust the guide to the thickness of the handle and the rail so the bit cuts the recess right on the shoulder line (where the slats meet the handle and the rail. see Cross Section in Fig. 20.) Next, remove the edge guide and rout out the center section to form a recess for the plastic laminate. see Fig. 21. [NSTALL LAMINATE. Cut the plastic laminate t.o size to fit in the recess. Then apply contact cement and press the taminate in place, see Fig. 22. MOUNT DOOR HINGE

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Now that the door is complete. it can be mounted to the middle shelf with a piano hinge. The trick is to mount the hinge so the knuckle is dow" - not in Ihe way when the door is lowered. see Fig. 24 RABBET FOR HINCES. The first step L
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Coun~Bench -------------------------OLD FASHIONED JOINERY

This e'OUntlj' bench uff~1>'an inten!Sl.ing chall.nge - it', 3."""mbled "ilbout Mil!<, "<'FeW'>, dowels, or ¢\K.'. YOumight CXIJe<:l it LObe a bit wobbly, but once it.. assembled it

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The.;trength Uo;;in lbe keyed mortis<: and t...non joints. ''.'hen the tapered key' are pusbed throul('h mortises and tapped in Light, the seat. $helf, and stretchers arc h.l~ firmly between the two ends. ENDS

I beg-dIl work on lb. bench by edge·gluing LWOblanks for the end pi ec"" CAl from ~'4 stock (''II,." actual thickness) to • rouj('h widlb of 12V~·and length ofZIV•. cer-ro SIZE, Once the blanks an> dry and planed or sanded fiat, trim them to a finished \\;dlh of 12 and square up the ends, see. I-'ig. I.(Leave lhe blanks a little more than 23" long. The final length will be 23" after the arched top is cut.) CENTERLINE.Next, LOmake it easier to locate all of the cuts in Lheend pieces, I laid out a centerline down the comillete length of each blank. THROUCH·MORTISES. After the eentertine is marked on the blank$,lay out and cut lhrough·murti:les from ooth oides 01 the blank, see Fig. I. (For a eomptete explanation on culling 8 keyed mortise and tenon joint, see the article on page 1:1.) JIG. 1'0 help ":let out" th~ mortises. I built a simple jig. see ~'Ig. 2. SLnrl with a eouple of pieces of scrap that are the same thickness as the stock used for the >;IMeh· cr. (In my esse. ,v,,,·.) ~~dge.glue the piece.. lIclween side boards to create a "window" in the center that's the length ()f the mortise (1I'l'). No,,', cUL one of the .ide boards So the distanee from the window to the t,lge of the side board equals the di.-um
distance \\·as5t1l/ ....• in mv case.) Next, glue a fence onthe uutsid ... odgc to hook over the edge of the blank. To usc the jig, damp it ill place on the end blank and ""t OUlthe mortise> with a chisel, see Fig. a. Then turn the blank over, book the fence

Tt':NONS. Next. cut !'"..long tenon!' centered on the ends of "~,'h -treteher t.. match the mortise, see Fij1. ~.

KEYMOIl1'ISF.$.Af'terthe tenons are cut. chisel an angled key mortise through each u'n()n ",' explained on p:~ 14 and 15. Be sure lo lay but the cUlt;. so vnt" mortise angles from the front.and the other mortise angles [rom lb. back. set>.Fig. )\. fIGURE I

KEYS.

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Now push tho tenons through the j'l

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keys (Cllo fil the key mortises. After the

keys fit tightly in the mortises, cut the key. a"'ong. see Fig. 7. Rh.),. Nate: ~"inct'then.' rna»' be iJ\e'llL.u~· teneies [rom one angted mortise tu unother, 1cut each individua! kev to match each kev mortise and then Inbele.t them. . WIOJ'KOf-SMa.

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over the same edge. and set out the matching mortise on the other fac-e. AiWr sellin!!, out the mom""", work from both faces to cut them all the way

through the blank.

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STRETCHERS

Once all of the nloltL
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Fig. 6.

\VOODSM1TH

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SlAT AND SHELF

0_ the '" ) > "'" helflF.). l'l.art bYf,I~j." IlK>",'al and .hdf from "4 stock to a IWcl> ftongthof21' 'and I"OU«h "ldths of II (.... 41)

and r (,htlf).

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To d"(,'m.in,· the Il·"gth of the seat 811<1 .h~I(. measun- Ih,' .houl
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STOPPED DADOES

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No" you ('111' tleu·rmine the local ion of the IOf) of tho ......" id,' .loVPI'II dadoes.

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TCJflu thUt. la~' tlu! seat sideways on top(Jf II", .In'tchtl' (RJ and al!IDJl.,tthe end VJ('("t'

(AI._ Fig" Thenu, se a ehlsel to scribe a ~h<.rt h",· onto the .ncl Va... -e righl at the "'1'0(1'" ",·.t......·Ilewl in ~ll!.s. :-:0" do the ~me ..n Ihl' other end and above • ht>I((f.) at 1Iulhel"l<. '.AHII'TTU ••OADOE:>.Xext. use a pencil I.. e\I .... 1 t ....".. tn:lJ'k" ....,.,..... the bnanl. Th"n 1.1) 0111 thl' bou .. m of thO'dad_ "".

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do" II (nlm lh('l"p lint·. see Fig. 9.

NOI., m"rk the "ntb of the dadoes so the eli.«Ic.1.!4ttl .. I(.n~ an~J the shelf dado ", r;1~·Icing. l 'emer lx,lh on th(' \\ i\lt h. C;UT~lIt: OAooI:8. To cut the dad oe s, I

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..OCAT.:')AllOt:S. Onep the inside and '.llt."ifll· 111"~:01 UN: clecidl'fl. tA.·mI~r..uilyns.... "","11"· Ih,' -tretchers to the end pieces.

sl"rt(~1 hy drillitl" • .".. lia, stop holes dCI'I) "I ..".:h (·tld. ",,~ Filt. 10.

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N(·Xl. "ttl\lnt .1 t~" ~lrJ,ight bit in tho router ann ,K)slljIUllhf' hit in oneoflhe stop holt'S. Nf)" huhl the router in the same 'lI(~Jti(Jnit \\ Jill.· "unnt! nlUting aM mark .:t IJartlal iIln- to lr~k'atE" the cin-umfcl"t'llC."(>

"rth,·b:Lq'.ftee.'lg.1fl,OothesamC-3tthe(.Jtht.·r"l(~f) h.,lt·.

Tht·n. u"lng thl'SC!' tWl, a.n:s. align 3 .traight b";lnl a.' a f~ncr and clamp it III pial"'. Til ,,>lit Ihe dado. I"\lel' the route~ b.ll" ". d~p (",... Iktail AI, pIal:e th~ btt in C,Ot" tht.· :ootl1J' holc:-. and roUl to tht' l.lh,·1' hul,. (ShuI' N"te; Hold the rout,'r S<>C\lnlJy l,,·rf.)n·l1.lmlng on the po\\'er.) CLEAN OUT~NI)S Th .. 1",,1.ll'p 011 th" dildo<'" I~I" Aquar,' up the enlL; \\;lh a

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CUT (NO PIK£S

After the stopped dadoes were routed. I cut one end picscoe (AI to final MaJ'" and then used that piece III IllY out the other end. PRonLf;. 10 layout the arch profile on the top. strike a ~. radius are with the compass poant 011 the eenterline 19"up from the bottom end. This will make the end pi_(A) 23"' lontr.!lee Fig. 11. Theil set the point of the compass on the right edge of the blank 3~' up from the stopped dado. see Fig. II. Open up the compass until the pencil end meets the 4 are already drawn and strike another arc, Repeat on tile Jeft edge. 10 form the feet. strike a 4' radius art with the compass point on the centerline right at the bottom edge. see Fig. ll. 1f.ANDLf;. AJWr the top and bottom profilesare cut. cut out tbe handle slot. 10 do this. start by dnlling two ¥.. end holes. see Fig. 12. Then cut the SIOl with u sabre saw and file it smooth. see Fig. 13.

ROUTfDGfS

Ne.'L. rout a bullnose pnjJile on all uf the exposed edges and in the handle slot. To do this, mount a W round-over bit in thett~ and lower it below the router bas • see Pig. 17. Then ront both edges oJ tile pieeoes except the stretchers. Iah;o filed a $light chamfer on the bottom edges ofthe feet to prevent splintering as it's dragged across the floor. I finished the bench with two coats of Watco Danish Oil (Golden Oak) and then [or more protection added two coats of lung oil. see Sources. page 24. Finally, J put the pieces together and tapped home the keys.

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RGUa.E 14

TONGUES ON SEAT AND SHElf

After the handle slots were cut, Twent back to working on theIleat and shelf. 10 lock these pieces into the end pieces, J cut rabbetson each end to produce tongues that will Iiiinto the stopped dadoes. ssr THE SA": Begin by setting the rip fence as a stop so the outside edge of tile blade is Vi' from the fence. see Fig. 14. 1'hi$ will create a '1•• long tongue. (The dadoes were routed '.. 0" deep. This insures that the shoulder of the tongue wiU seat firmly against the inside race of the end piece without 'bottoming out: see Fig. 15.) Now raise the blade high enoogh to produce a tongue to lit the dado, see Fig. 14. (Shop Note: J sneaked up on this height on 8 lest scrap of the same thickne..
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•

Keyed Mortise and Tenon THE ORIGINAL KNOCK-DOWN JOINT When building the country beneh shown on page 10,1 used wbatmaybe one of the first knock-down joints the keyed mortise and tenon, (Sometimes iL's called a "tusk t.enon· joint since the tenon runs through the mortise and sticks out the otherside like a tusk.) Since the pieces are locked without glue, it's one of the original

1

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knock-down connectors, That's one of the things I like about

this joint - it's great for knocl<-down furniture. In feudal til1le$ the heavy trestle tables often included keyed mortise and tenons, Once the banquet was over, the furniture could be knotked down for stol'age or moved along as hi. lordship traveled the countryside,

Another thing I like about this joint is that. iLcan be "adjusted" to accommodate humidity changes, \Vhen the

wood shrinks the key can be tapped in to tighten thejoint,

•

DESIGN CONSIDERAnONS

Int's built oorreetly, thisjoint is very strong. Strength in this case means that. lbe joint. will hold the stretcher (tenon) to the uprighl (mortised piece) I<'Wwut mdcing. 10 help re;iSl racking, the tapered key forces the upright agam,,'t the shoulders of tbe tenon. The amoun; of raclting the shoulders will resist depends on the shoulders' size and design. On 8 largY!project ""cll os a trestle table. the Lenonis made with four shoulders. That is, shoulders are ~t on the toplbottom and the frontlback of the stretcher to help disperse the racking pressure and to prevent. cru..hinj! the wood. On a "mall project such as the country bench. a tenon with shoulders only on two edge! is adequate to eliminate the racking.

Before using the jOint in a project, it's a good idea to make a practice joint. I decided to make a pmctice joint with two shoulders (on the 10pibolLom) similar to the one on the country beoch, THROUGH MORTISE

The lin'i,.Lepin makingthejoinL is to cut the mortise (rectangular hole). MORTISE SIZE. The width of the mortise equals the thicknessofthe Lenon. Since the joint for the bench has Moulders only On the top and bottom edges.the tenon should be exactly the same thickness as the stretcher ("V..,. Therefore, the morti se is cut to this width. The length (height) of the mortise has to allow for the shoulders on the lOP and bottom edges. Subtract the combined

depth of both shoulde .... ('I'. plu.'

%")

(rom

tbe width of the Lenon (2Y'). On the bench this made the mortise I V'long (high). Once the .ize is detennined, lay out the mortise on both sides of the pieee orstock using a sbarp pencil, see Step!. SET OUT BORDERS. Next, "set out- the borders of the mortise with a chisel. Hold the chisel perpendicular to the workpiece with the bevel facing toward the center ofLh~ mortise, see Step 1. (To make a jig for setting out the mortise, see page 10.) Now with the chisel's edge just in fronl of the pencil line, very lightly tap the chisel with a mallet. (Leave the penclliine intact. If the mortise is a bair small. YO\. can make it larger Ister.) After working all the way around the mortise with light taps. clean out the chips and go around again until you're about V../ deep. Next, tum the workpiece over ami use the same procedure to set out the borders on the opposite raee. BORE OUT WASTE. Once the mortise'. borrler is defined. bore out the majority of the waste from the center; see Step 2. Start by boring hoies at each end of the mortise about Y,,,·!Tomthe end lines, Then bore overlapping hoi.., to clean out the waste.

CLEANOUT WASTE. After boring. again use the chisel w clean out the rest. of the waste. see Step 3. \Vhen cleaning out the waste. do it • tittle bit at a time and work [rom bot" faces. Start by paring off the ridges between the drilled holes. Then pare away the inside ends and edges until you reach the border lines. Finally. clean out the corners W make sure they're square.

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BI1rt IUith a bit UIIJl.;' Clean ridg&s betllJeClIlwl.e.~IVOrking Start by Ia.yi"g ou: IIwrfi& both 3 1 .idtUI 0[ l('Oritpiece wilh a pencil, Theil 2 lIu171lIIorti se wid/h.. To prelJ
I;''' leJl$

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chisel. Repeal.". oppiJIIiUJ/ace. WOODSMITH

back, lIum barefrom oilier sid e.

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oround. und squa.re tIP the cqrners.

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Sfitl'CHU

nNON After the rnurtt...... cW'mI' ~ndof Ill<>J.houl.ar hr.' on I", 0 lhinK": the thlCklll'S.'"f the u"nJtl>I (mortised) piece and the lenjtlh of the .ask" (The 'u,k" IS t""l ",,11 .. fthl· It'n"" t.hat comes out the olher 61d,' ) n.e ll1>k .hould >lK'k ooll"nll {'nol,l~ht(l $t!lablc m", b/fUI, Jrnt]/u Q lilt}. i'~ Own Jq.lk of llunJJer I",. alJd rul aIIo" room (or the muller °kc) mort...,." Itdrit ol rJId of (,:sf pll.... TArn Jllp "",*- pi"" " to '1'," br!I,mdtht> kry mcoru... •• ,..(er 10Step 19 (n.e morelcngth 1tll<>k,'y TN" and holrk CJlA'T fflgr

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moru",.lhc.~rt~j For the I ~.. I pi"""" are '+"." lhid<. I want"d tbe tusk lco ,;tick out I I" (rom thl. Iace of tl", "1'MI1M C11tat':\ ~- r(~rthe kt·)' I'rus 11,.- lM')f,rtr' rllr ~h, I So I ad~('"thl...,14>R\'II,,'ran" then laid
,m"TP.NON WIOTH N,·Xl, lay Itut th,· w,dth

of the tenon to match th,· 1"lljtlh of th,· mortise. This iJil (Ion(>by markin~ lW(. 1'li~ll' lines, lea\'ing a t('n~tn I J "inll t~.'1"'('('n the lines,

6 ""y fittlllg tnt' "I,d

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thl' If'~t IJ'f'Cf 1/'0

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7

l'o..~lliOrtril' Je"cc a~stop »o olltsid, of hl,ulr ,,II nil(lllt'ti ,,-tIl, NIQllldff 1,'1' T/II'I' IIInk, rrytMlrti or,'r II.. blad, IIll/ill'lld t~f"In (.rl"..,.I.ils }""11('I."

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Cl1T T~NON SlIouun:R,; Al\rr th,· 1(" non ,\:8.... laid out, 1cut lh(~Wl10n ~hl)ul(l(~l'"l'

on the ",hIe '"'". 'Il, dn llull. "<'I tI... >ll" blade heigh I so it'" " liUI.lp .. lhanllw "i"1' lines you've marked on th,· ,trctch~r. Before cutting the tenon >hu"klc'" nIl the artual \\'flrkp~·, tl'~ U )tlKMii,h'" t(, t'rn"(_'k eut the depth of rut wuh u l,·'t I,i',<~-tlu,t'~ the same "idth ...' Ihe .tn:teher. d.. thi'. make ,. C'OIlplt' of CUI.' riJlbt III th,· (·'MI. II<'\' Sthp 5. Thton turn tht· J,j~·t.,t.·(,,'('r arwl ('1.11 a

n,

notch QIl the (lllwr ~J:(" No\\ lr)' fittin~ UK" tf'St 1'1"" lnt() tilt· l1')I:'rtJ*. ~"e ~·I,.i It "1Uvn,oot)I,\' ll(·l~)(1 hilt, If .... """'" th.. b!ad. •• i1gltl y .u.1n'I""'t It·,3 II\;,II('I' ..f ul",n I"" r.n;1) until tlw ",non 6", lil!hl II110th.· m..nL..·. Sint1: ) w·n.- lW1u:nc the Plt'('(· 11\ t'r lilMI

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...yIr nd.,.-. kfI 8byt '"t./r.~a dUI('II"b/wk 1\u!f,. 9 "ri< 01 an m'lll~ 1M "',,,," TMI< ~Jrl'..ta rdtghl <"'lm[a 1''' IT

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Ajlt.,xrn/JtllU tltt 1111t' u,ill,,, ('II,~,I, lay Ollt nil 111I1(('rt'III1,lIt 'It•• bttC'k

from III, ,,-,·il.d /i".. TI"" .Y,I/II .. II" Itltdt'1Y1llli Ill' {J¥'fllt tI,II~, Iltt (""H","I

14

N,d,.

N,'.rl, lay tI,,1,hr key mllrli~. Thr

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artu:illy maJa. tht ",non >maJkorby I"",· th..l amounl (Yo :'l. After the bbtle Il"s(If ,)a.,'t'~cn·.lt~ a nluJ;:h ~ur(ru.~on lht' si,le:-of tht· l('Jl(ln, 1'\) ,-It'jln up thi. surface. anti It"t • IK·rf,...'t fit. I~I", off the rid",,,,, with a chi....l. ".,. 1\,

rkpi."".

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CHAMFER ENDS:, Thl'n--:'ti (Uk' m,)n·lhlflJ.[

to t1uon the ~nd or th,· woon. Chi.,,<,I'''IlI11 chamf .... around lhl' ~nd lo hdl' ,ntidl' it into the morli;e. S('~ SII'" II. I'fhls hl·I,,,, prevent chipout a. Ihc·I,·non comt·s Ollttho lr~ck .ide of thr mnrtilll'.1

WOO[)SMITH

•

•

KEY MORTISE

The keyed mortise and ",non joint hnl! ,.TI(' -K.c,)··difference ever a n·~lar murti...~,· &11(1 (.eOOIL Si1K'e n', glu~ ." used, th,' key Cur wedge. pin) i.~a m(_.l('h-.tnit'91 ntl' ..ln." I)r pre-

•

venting the tenon from pullUlg out of too mortise. I.AYOUT.To accurately lay out tOO location of th(· "key" morti"... fir..'l of the jt,int tightly together \lithoul ·ooltomingouL.· Now the rest ofLhelu:y mo~can be laid out. Fin-t. layout the front of lh. k"y mortise 'I.- from the unden:ut line, see Step 11. Then lay out tbe side lines. >'0 the distance between the side lines equals the thil!rl key to pull the joint tighl, Ih. front .ide of the mortise has 10 be angled to the same un!tle as the taper on the key.:;ee Steps 1;1and 14.

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X'(Isf,' oul QJlglt: the fron! t-dpt ~r1/", k." 12 8(Irr'llt¥ 13 TomtJrli,
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TAPERmKEY

AfWr mornse is complete. a tapered k.} can be cut t.o fit the 1OO1'ti:;e. The triek is culting the taper on the front of the key so it perfecU, matches lh~ nllgl~ chiseleJf Ihe ,,,d. of II" key 80 i/:. the tapered key can be cut sli!!htl)' over- "tntl II ttIJ}f"t'It'1I1 TIll'" ru! .«ligIIIJ}J O't/~;(ll' (-cutmd 0,,1,,(' tenon. siu-. (I did this on • band saw.1Theil hand tll(' (,',t,· filltf plallt: IIp (/I/lt',lilltll '(fIX r. plane the front of the key sneaking up all lhe final taper. Keep W$ting too fil tllId planing until there isn't a gal' bel ween Ihe tapered face of the key and the mortise on either side (If the Lenon. cur TO IXNCTH. Since the k('Yblank i~ longer than the finished key, mark and CUt both ends so the key i~ centered un the tellon. see SLep 17. /,

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16

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17

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CHAMfERS

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Th prevent chipping during "-,«Imbly and IA> lire"" up the joint. I med a clwnf.r 1U'(lulltl the mortL<;e, see Step IS. To p,."IJCllt rJllpPll1Y. hold ajilt aIm. a"gll! a)ldfil~a 1/,." ('hw,,''er all)l( ltd Finally. (Ire;s up th. joint by cutting a mailllll,"1i.,r.JIIlltc.(cI(,{' Mil, .Ught chamfer around the knon alMIkey. see Ih~t(/gegoJllt~ (mig (/)o.,1jil, lilt k.y l)(arliSt ) Step 19.

18

WOODSMITH

19 To

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15

Drill Press Cabinet

•

A BORING HOME If you asked a group of woodworkers to Iisl loo topthreepowertools, I'll beta drill press would appear somewhere on almost every list. (It's third on mine - right behlnd the table saw and rooter table.) The doill press earned its position in my shop because it does a lot more than bore straight holes. My drill press is aL"O a mortising machine. With drum sanders, its used to smooth curved edges. And, it's even a turning tool when [ want to make a small knob or reduce the diameter of a short dowel without having to set up the lathe. I use il with so many differenl accessories, it's hard to name them aU without sorting through them, And that's where tbe problem begins- Not even counting the various sets of boring bits, J have 80 mueh stuff for my dnll press that it's in small boxes seattered allover the shop. That's what made me decide the driU press deserved a storage cabinet of its own. When planning the cabinet. I built it to be al a height to put the driU press table at a comfortable working height. The cabinet shown here l~ designed ror the small driU presses sold by Sears and Delta. You may want to alter the height of the cabinet if you have a larger bench-model drill press (like Delta's 14" bench model).

"

•

CUTOUT MIlTS

I started by laying OUlthe parts on a single sbeet or plywood, see the CUlling Diagram, Then I planned the cutting sequence. PLYWOODPARTS.Begin by first cutling the sheet in half lengthwise, then into manageable pieces, Tb do this ...rely on 8 table saw Lakes two people. Sin('(l J was working alone, I used II portable circular saw with the plywood propped up on 2x4s on the Ooor.Then cutall the $maU pieces.

• •

....•

MATERIALS LIST Ovetotl Oimem.JoM: 34~"h .14'11'" A

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CASE JOINERY

Al\er cul1ing all the plywood pieces to size. the rabbet joints for the case can be made. RABBETSWES. The fitsl S('t of rabheLllis on the top and bottom ends of both side pieces (A), to join the sides to the t.op and bottom (B), see Detail A, Fig. I. BACK RABBETS. The second set of rabbets is cut on the inside rear edge of all four casepieces (A and 8). Thh; rabbet is v." by to hold the back, see DeLaiI B, Fig. I.

iI.

•

ASSEMlIlE CASE

'T'he next step isjoining the case parts. 'lb do this, I used glue and some f8Slenets rarely $E'enin lVood..milh - nails, NAlts ASCLA.'lfPS. [ generally object

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nails, but tbey have their place on plywood

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projects. They're handier than clamps for pulling joints tight and holding parts together while the glue is drying. PRgnR~ The trick to using nail. for pulling joints tight is to predrive them before the pieces are positioned for assembly. That is, the nails are driven at an angle with the points poking out about V,.". Then glue is spread on the joints and the pieces are aligned. see Fig. 2. A~the pieces are pressed together, the points bite into the wood. Because the nails are angled, they draw the joinllogether. BACK. After the glue is dry on lhe four corners of the cabinet, the back can be cut from \4" Ma..«lnite :;0 it fits into the back rabbet, see F'ig. 3. (l usually cut the back lo exact size to fit in the rabbets so it squares the case. Buton this cabinet [cut the back about smaJl in both dimensions in order to use a trick to align the doors.) To mount the back. drill 'Y,. shank boles spaced 6" apart for No.6 X"""screws, Then place the back in the rabbets so there's about a space around all edges, Now drill a pilot hole Cor one screw in the center of each and screw in the four screws to give the case some rigidity. Shop Note: Don't apply glue or use more than four screws at this point. Shiflingthe C'ase in relation to the back is the key to getling the doors square later. CROSS BRACE.With the back holding the ease square, a cross brace CL)can be added to divide the section Cor the drawer and the doors, see Fig. 4. Cut the brace to length to fit between the sides. (Take this measurement at the top in ease the ply. wood sides are buckled or bowed.) BRACEPOSmON. The brace is6'1." [rom the top of the cabinet. Also. it's set back '!IiI" [rom the front of the sides. (After the %··thick trim strips are added. the brace will be 0/." from the front to allow Cor the 'Y,"·thickdoors. see Fig. S.) 'TRIM STRIPS- The last step is to rip 0/.".

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FIGURE!

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DOOR

DOORS

After !he ba:;lc case ~,complete, CUta reinforcing plate (N) from 414 stock to fit snugly between the sides, see Fig. 7. (This adds suppon $(J the LOpd(Jesn't sag.) Now the decrs ean be made. Todetennine the width of the door panel" total up all or the parts and spaces that fit between the 5ides. This includes the two hinges. four '!I.'• thick bim sbip:<. and a gap between the doon<,_ Fig. 7. Then cut two plywood cloor panels (F) to make up the difference. To determine the heighl of the door pane!';, measure from th" top ooge or the CJ'OO<, braee to the in."de of the bottom. Then subtraet '.... Io,s,' for dearanee anti ',' for lhe two +. ·thick trim strips). TRP.IISTRIPS. AfWr lh. door panels are cut to :,i7.t!, ¥,.,.. ·tbick trim strips aN' adoptl to cover the edges .see Fig. 1:1. IUNCES. Th mount the doors. I used centinuous hinges, see Fig. 9. Be!,,,n by euuing' tho hinge' t
•

If.

•

•

DRAWER •

ftGUlll0

-18

After the doors are mounted, the drawer ean be made. The height of the plywood drawer front IG) is determined by measuring the distanee betwee n the tOl)O: of the doors and the bottom of the top, Then subtract J". IY.o· for the two 1oI."·thlc:k biro strips plus Yo"Cor clearance top and bouom.) DET£RMII\'£ W1I)'1'H.The width of the drawer is determined by the sliding hardware. Sine'. the hardware we used (see S
•

•

• •

•

SIDES.Now the drawer sides (Hl can L
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•

DRAWER JOINERY

The drawers are joined with tht·same l'imple rabbet join"" used on the ca.~. I'RONTIIlACK RABBETS. The rabbets on the front and back are 'I." bS lI.". see Fill. IS. When gluing the joint. ~ther. use the same angled nail triek used Lu pulilhe joinL.light, !Ie(' Joint Detail in }'ig. 13. BOTTOM DADO. Aller rabbeting the ends of the front and back. make a Yo" by Yo" groove "'. up from the bottom of the front and $ide pieces to hold the ~1a.,oniLe bottom, see Bouern Detail in Fig. 13. C(.&ARANCE. The last step bofore assembling the drawers i~ cutting -Y,. from thp top of t he sides and back to allow clearance for the reinforcement plate (mounted under the lop). see Fig. 13.Then nail and glue the drawer tugelh~. TRIM eecrxc. \Vhen the glue dries. the trim can be applied. Begin by putting the shorter trim pieces that conceal the the gaps for the drawer slides, see Pig. 14. Next, trim the "nil. of these short pieces Ou"" with the top and bottom edges. Then apply the lop and bottom strips, SLIDING HAlU)WAR&. With the drawer complete. lb. sliding hardware can be Installed. Begin by mounting the inner drawer ),'Ilide;;to the "ides of the drawer so the mounting holes are I~ up from the drawer bottom, see Fig. 14. Then mount the outer drawer guide to lhe side of the cabinet with its mounting buies aligned '0/,. above the cross brace. see Fig. 15. Shop Note: To center the drawer. use the vertical screw slots for initial """itioning. Next, adjust lhe bnrdwart' up or down until the drawer is centered. Then put in the screws througf the round screw hole.s,

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BASE

AlWr the cabinet is .....sembled .• base is made. This base i.< a plywood frame with

•

•

mitered corners, see Fig. 16. CORNf;R RI,ocKS- 1'0 reinforce the corners of the ba.se, 11'.:· x 1'1:," - avo" corner block!' are used. Before gluing them in place, a ~," hole is bored through the center for the leveling mechanism. LEVELING MECHANISM. I made a leveling mechanism for the base to keep the cabinet from wobbling on the shop Door. This mechanism oon..igL~of carriage bolts that thread through T-nuts in the bottoms oflhe COrnerbtocks, see Detail in Fire. 16. To make the mechanism a
RGUIf 16

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19

Drill Press Table & Fence

•

If there's one feature !.hat transforms a drill press into a real woodworiling 1.001. it"s an auxiliary driIJ press table. An auxiliary table provides 3 mucl1 larger work sarfaee than the cast iron surface that's part of the driIJ press itself.

•

But most important., i~ allows the dnll prel
Before getting to the fence. Ibuilt the basic table. The surface of the t.ableismade oflwo layers of~' plywood. The top layer should be &., large as possible. \Ve made ours lPh' by36",:;eeF'ig. L Then the ends were cutoff at a 45· angle for the fence locldng mechanism. refer to Fig. 12. COLUMN CUTOUT. The width of the top surface of the table is limited by the drill press column. To make the table as wide as possible. the top piece is made oversized and then a section is CUt out for the column. Note: The size of~his cutout should be as small as possible, but be sure to leave room for the are of any locking levers or adjusting cranks on your particular drill press. BOTTOM lJIYER. Next. a boUom layer is cut. The purpose of the boltom layer is to add rigidity to the whole table. The width of the boltom layer is determined by the distance from the front of the top layer to the column cutout. see Fig. 2. I made the length 4' less than the top layer so there would be 8 Z'overhang on each end.

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20

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cvrNOrCHlO~ IMIS ..... HANDIIS ON DIIl1 PH5$. COlUMN

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DETAIL

DRILLING SURfACE

One of the great features of this table is • replaceable drilling surface made from 1'0' Ma.'50nite.This surface slides in a J"CCel;S to provide a clean, fiat surface to support the work as the bit breaks through. REPLACEABLE SURFACE RECESS. To make a recess for the surface, begin by making two II,'-deep kerfs centered on the length of the table about 6' apart. see Detail. Fig. 3. After cutting the kerfs. switch to a router with a 11>'straight bit to clean out tbe waste between the kerfs. CENTER CI1l'OUT.Aft.er routing the recess, [ made a cutout that goes through both layers of the table. see Fig. 4. The main purpose oftbis hole is to allow a drum sander to be mounted so its end is below the surface of the auxiliary table, 1b make this cutout. fust. layout a 1\1:' square centered below the driU chuck, Next. bore I" holes through both layers of plywood at the comers oflhe square. Then cut out the waste between the boles.

CUT lOP

ROM ,:;powooo

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an ~..MASONITE

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-- '~"WOODSMITH

•

• •

After finishing the cutom, I made up a supply of replaceable surfaces to fil in the recess oul of Yo" Masonite. see Fig. 5. Note: ( keep a ('Ii·thick block to put in the cutout under the M
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The taW. makes the drill press more rune· tiona] than ever. Th make il even more useful, I addeda rullyadjustAblefence, GLUE UP. The fence is made from three 2Y.:"-\\tjcle pie-ces or ry,.- stock, see Fig. 7. (Before gluing up the pieces, notch the LOll piece for the drill chuck.see Detail.) When the glue dries. tip the workpiecedown to 2" wide to make clean, square OOg"".Then cut it 10" length that's 6"longer than the table. ('Ihis allow" a" al each end for the locking mechanism, see Fig. 10.) LOCKING ME:CHANISM. The locking mechanism consists uf IWO blod<,<\\;Ih their ends cut al an angle that clamp onto the ends of the table, refer to Fig. 12. The blocks art' ripped to the width of the tence (2") and cut to a ruugh length or 41'1'.Then each block is "hinged" on a spline or II. Ma.wnite. HING£. '1b make the hinge. cut II 11.". deep. '1,,"·widekerf across the bottom of lhe rence Yo" in frum each end. See Fig. 9. Next. make II kerf across eachblock. Then eut a v..··\\;de ~lrip or ~L.l8Onite 10 6t into the kerfs. (Since the Strip is v..' wide anti the kerfs are v.." deep, the block will be held v.: from the fence.refer 10 Fig. 12.) MAJlK CUTOF.: Th mark the angled end of the blocks, clamp the fence centered on the table so it overhangs the front about halfits width. see Fig. 10. Next, insert the spline into the kerf in the block, and then stide th~ block along lhe kerf in the fence until if. OUAA with the front of the table, Now,wilh a uniform ~. gap between the renee and lhe block, trace the angle of the edge oflhe table on the block. Then cut off the waste leaving the line $0 the block is a little longfor clamping,see Fig. II. To mount Ihe block. bore a ~. hole through the fenceand lhe block2' fromthe end for a v..' carriage bolt. see Fig. 12. ~1nnlly.glue the splines into the blocks and the rence. 'Whenthe wing nut is tightened, it pinchesthe angled end ofthe block against the angled end of the table to lock the fencein place.

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SPADE BIT RACK AJI er IinillhUlIl tho· drill p""" eabinet 1_ P"IC\' 16), I t~IDI • I'IICkI<·1works finel to I Y.." wi,le """ II' long. se~ drawing. (This length jg n littl,' 1•.ss than the II ~"·wid .. door on Ihe dnll pl'\'>' cabinet.) 1'0.\1. eut a chamfer on each front end to mak" reom fur the 01ourof the c:abincllo C'~_...,thout llu ....,k hillin!! tho oth er door DRlIJ. HOLFs After th~ dwnfers "'" centered on the ,,'I4Ilh t.o lI<'. The hole Iocallon.<.h"" n rn lh~ drawing allow for \I,' bE-I" "'n each bll. On my 'I,,"I~ bit FN. the shanks for IYIO<'I o(the bit> an- '." diameter SO I drilled "." hol(·s, lIuI Ih~ 1wo smallestbits (",,,' and WQuidfall lhrOUj(h a '1',. hole in the rock. go I drill"d smaller hoi"" for these two bil~ GROOVt;.To keep the biL~ from $pinning areund on the raek lind the "paddles" (acinI!

toward Ih,,' f","I. CUi • I'.··,.ide groove 'V,. from th« back ,'111(1'. see the Cross

~·ction 8~VKI. 10 make II c:..sier to get the bits

on and oUI. I CUI• 15" bevel on the fronl t-d1(1' o( Ihi.I(I'.)"·' .,." Crt"'" Section.

SC"KEWIIOI.ES. )1;.'1. drill countersunk

t,,"

~wh"lc. for th,· scr"w~ that hang the rae k on th" ,1I.or.Thc· holes are ',." in di~l.I'r and IV,,'rrum each end. Finally, ~no" lh,' ruck 10the inside of the door wilh No. Hx 2' rh woodserews.

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FORSTNER BIT BOX 'Jlo- tlnO """'" caWld ha., a big dr..wer 10 hold biUII""~, bot I didn' want to

thro .. m) ..xl"'nm\·....FOI"'t_ bit., into the dra".r unprot,'
Yo Wider than Ihe ovcl'lllllength of your

lall(,.l hit ) OADO.After the ~Iu....llrie. and the ends "'" .qll9l"\'.' my 1arge;1 bli has a 11.. " ,liamN"r ,hank. I drilled the h")('II .. ,lh. Mo' brad IMOint bit. To I'"",'nt "" .. du,t from building up 10 th ....""Ilom nf th. hole.. I drilJecllhe b(l)~ for lh"I!lJ')("r bitA all !.he way !.hrough lhe bottom .fthl' bl(lck. To pre\'ent the smaller bit. (~- and 10'''<) from falling through lh. hol~.. I nnly drilled ..~ deep as the

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·ngth nth

... ,.,. ...-r b" shank, Then I

UD The ("'31 1'...... 10make i.the lid. It".

finWll'rl dnlhng lhmug!!" ith a.maller bu. :-ID"~ Xext, rut out two -ddes from ~. .Iock that are ~. "idrr than tilt eenter block. but the l;ar,,," len!!th. Then l'U1. Y,"·" .. I" WI""" for the lid on the i""id. (If .ide piece. Locate the bottom "(th,, j.."I'(HI\'" even with the lOp

cut from ~·~I .... k loth,· "'"'" wnlllba. the block. A.. f, r tbe ....idth.
f",.., ,·."h

oflh<- "houlclpI'l' on lh,· ..,mter block. No" I!lu,' tho .ides t(l the block keeping the end.. Ou.h lind lh(· 1(1'1,,)1'(,5 ev~with the tllP of lh(' ~hnuldpts.

..!tll<- I(MI<>I e.... S(I" eu t nobbE-l>..n hoth "Ig"" of the lid to ,·re.'t~«,nll\l('" that "ill lit into the {,,'llM,,'("" in lhf.' ,..td ..·~, I\OUNO OVKK tl)(:t;S Th ... hl.
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• ____~T:~a~lk~i~ngSho~_ AN OPEN FORUM FORCOMMENTS AND QUESTIONS

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CHANGINGA srr Often Iwish someone would make large drill bits in 32nd or 64th ineh increments, 'J'h(,re are times when I need to drill a hole that's jUSLa hair under or over a standard-size bit. Sometime;; Ineed to match a metric·sized hole and don't want to buy an expen.
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"ote: Since the edge of a spade bit is .lightly tapered from the end W Ole shank. the bit i; shank will II0t be perpendicular W the edge oft.hc block. Since you have to lake an equal amount off both edges, the bit should only saiek out one half the amoent you want to decrease lh~ bit. This can be a 1!Ct'II.'t",all (1"'Oll"i. Ifyou w'lll1t to decrease the bit 11,.". vou have to let the edge of the bit stick over' the end of the block onl.I' ,/,..... (That', I... , than the lhick· ness of a playing card. Three playin!!:cards equal about 'I".) Once the bit is clamped in position LaP in. nail:l.' an indexi,,!!:pin ril\'ht under where the hit !lointjoill!' the paddl!'. _ drav.ing.

lfind tlud all (""f/)ty coff~1!M)I ltfith it.~

/lOlytthylcn< coI'er make .• a g"od dirl!! $O{''t~111!;IQrnge ('Q11tuil1er.

R. L. ,Ifam,tte Penjl
Illinois saw our-suggestion

to t>sea dish for

cleaning out brushes and offered another idea He euts the bottoms (ItT two-liter "Iastic :lOft drink bottles and uses them Instead of cleaning them out aft"r was hinl! brushes. just throw them oway. PLASH I'OINTS. Another comment eoneeming this article was made by Zati$ L Murph~', n chemist ror a solvent ('(Imp"ny. He complimented us on the article bul felt we should have elCplailled Ihe importance of understanding flash points, He says, •A

Nest. hold a smooth mill file flat and fil" the edge of the bit ju.<;f.until it'. perfectly Oush with the end onhe block. This can be a difficult thing 1.0 see. so I keep bru$hing my thumb across th•• dge of the bit to feel if the bit and block are flush, Aller the edge of the bit b 0.... <11. unelamp the bit and turn il over so the other edge face. up and the in.'ide corner rests against the Indexing n.'lil. Now clamp it down light and file the other edge unlil it'$ flush with tho end of thp block. Onee both edll"" are filed. test it by drilling a hole. One more thing. Don \ forget to mark the bit insome special manner or the ne.x1.time

you grab your I" bit. you might be surprised that it" drilling. bole.

Oru;h point is defined as that temperature at which a liquid or volatile solid gi"Cs orr a vapor sufficient to form an ignitabl« mixlure wil h air near Utesurface of'the liquid ." The mOSl dangerous ~OIV(·IIL..;are those

with flash points at or below room temperature. These are .Ia.·"ilied as "nanun:

Woodsmith - 054

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