NO. 37
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$2.50
W~sl'lith JanlFeb, 1985
Number 37
Sawdust
ISSUE. It'S par1. o€lhe nature of woodworking to be intrigued by bow things are built. Whether it be joinery, or Ed... hardware, or some obscure woodworking Donald B. P81Chke technique, there al\vays seems to be some-Oo$lgn Dlr6Clor thing beneath the "urfllte or. project to Ted Kralicek perk up my Interest. Asslstanl Editors Having '"lid that, it'. probably no surStevo Krohmer prise if I admit that I'm SOniCtines more Doug 10. l.Hick. intrigued with the technique involved with building. project than the project itself. Art DlrOClOl This W!I. certainly the case with the K.y Mulder bathroom cabinet shown in this issue. In Technic8llllustralors fact, Ireally didn't have a esbinet in mind David Kreyllng when I started this project - I just MIke Henry wanted to build some louvered doors to see SubocripeoonManager how they worked. S.ndy J. e.um This seem! to be a common amiction of woodworkers. A nonnal person would go Subscnption to the store, buy a set of louvered doors Chrlat., -MIner and have the esbinet built in no time. But Vlclry Robinson Stroud woodworkers tend to get more involved than that. There's the ehallenge of figuring ShIrley F.ltman out how things work. and how to build Ollna Starr them - even ifit takes all day justf.o make Compu,er Opera,lons the jig to get tho project started. Ken Miner There's n similar story behind the T. V. ClrctJJationManager trays. One of tho problems I,faced was how Jeff Farn. to fasten thc tray to the leg assembly (to Adm'nlst{stlve Assrstanl hold the legs open when the tray is being Cheryl Scott used). At first I thought r could get by with metal elips. Building Maintenance This was the easy solution -just go to Archl4 Kraus. the store and buy the clips. lVell, the clips worked okay for a while, but soon they got WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114) 1$ P
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WOODSMITHIs a registered ltademarlt 01 the Woodsmilh Publishing Co. 'CopyrightlM5 by WoodsmilhPubfoshing Co.
All RighlS Reserved. SubocrlpUonl: One ya.r (6 i$$oo$) S10. Two ye.,. (12Issuos) $18. Sing", copy price, 52.50 (Canadaand Foreign: add $2 per year.) Change Of Addre •• : Please be SUreto include both your old and new address.
Second eli •• poltage. paid at Des Moines. Iowa. Poatma.t.r: Send change of addmss notice. FOnTI 3579. to WoocIsmIthPubllsh"'9 Co., 2200
STATEM£NT OF O~£RSHIP. (R1'Cpiftd
way to make them. r slept on it. and eventualIy managed to come up with a nice little
wooden est.ch that works just fine ... another triumph of shop-made over storebought. CQPl"RIGUT. We li'equently get letters asking if the projects shown in lVood,,'niJh can be produced and sotd - either to raise nl9ney at ehuroh bn1.anlll CI' for profit at
craft. fairs. The answer is yea. In (act, we're always happy to hear from woodworkers who were able to sell projects shown in
lVood"mW,. If there's contusion in this area, it probably bas to do with the copyright protection. This protects our rights to tbe text, photos and drawings for the projects; These cannot be reproduced or sold with· out our written consent. Th"DRX. Bound in the center ofthls issue is a four-page Index to the projects, techniques and information shown in the first 36 issue. ofll'ood.milll (No 1 through No. 36). I hope it makes finding information in the back iSJIues 3 little easier. l'tiDLISllER"S STA1'E~IEN1'.Every year in theJanuaryfFebl11l1ry issuo of Wood~mit", we're required by the Post Office to print the Publisher's Statement shown below. It basically shows that our circulation stands at about 197,000 (up I'rom 151,000 last year). But these numbers are based on the September issue, With this issue, we've broken the 200,000 mark and stand at about 226.000. Nt:tt &tAll.tNG.The M....,hlApril issue of lVood8mitlt will be mailed during the week of April 15. 198U.
illXAGE~lE:-;T ANI) CIRCUI.ATION br ~ I,;.s.c. ~I
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WOODSMITIi
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T_~ & Technigu_e_s__
MACHINES ON WHEELS
Like mall)! horne woodworkers J have more tools than space. By mounting some of the larger machines on casters I'm able to roll them into position when Ineed them and out of the way when Idon't. The problem was that 1 didn't want to work on machines raised up high on rolling or lockdown casters. and 1 couldn't easily adapt the expensive retractable casters to many of my large machines.
DRILLING JIG IMPROVED
LOCATING HINGES
It was a great help to lise the angled drill- I recently finished building some cabinets ingjig (Wooll.mitll No. 35, page 22) to drill that had a number of flush-mounted doors. the slanted pockets fo. the wing struts in. At first Icouldn't figure out how to get the the biplane. But I found i~ even easier hinges lined up properly. AtWr placing the when Imade a modification on the-jig. hinges on a door, it seemed like J needed to 011. of the problems I noticed "vas that hold it at the correct position and then the !!mall wooden block between the two fftONT riDGE pieces of pl; a o/,oN-wide da(jo in the base piece of plywood ;r ~ ,befooo attaching the hinges. I then cut a lV-:::. ,.::;:::: STOItY S!lCX new longel' block that would fit tightly into ~ ON EOGEOF 0001.. JAARK POS1TtON the dado but could silll be J;'e)110\'ed. Of $CREWHOlES I'also marked distances on the block that '\'ould indicate commonly tiRed angles. crawl inside the cabinet to mark the location of the hinges on the cabinet stile. I CUt !lOCK TO SUOt finally eame up with this Simple 'method IN OAOO. MAIM that is helpful when mounting a number of O.STANCES OF STOP ?' C;:OMMONANGL£S doors. FENCE .... First, I mounted the hinges in the correct location on the edge of a door, Then 1 ~t- - -- - ~ made" story stick out of a piece of VI' thick SCI.,.p. 1cut it as long as the hEtight of the door opening and as wide as the door '" ~ • .' thickness. Next, I centered the strip alongside the ~" f6'\l"ri'.?~_.) V,- OAOO edge of the door and flipped the hinges over onto it. I carefully marked the loca'Phis saved the oftcn inaccurate job of tion of all the screwholes in the hinges onto 'measuring .the height between the two the strip. Then I drilled holes all til. way plywood pieces at. speelfic indexlng' point" lI"'OU9" the W' strip at ·theS
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2•• HINGfl> ROUTER lAeLE PEDESTAl
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I designed a simple "flip-down" system could be a apted ontomy other machines. I that worksdgreat table and mounted 2" casters to two router pieces of2)<4 and then hinged the 2X~'Sto the pedestals of the router table. When the table i$ in use the casters are kicked inward and the feet rest firmly on the ground. r designed the system to fit on my Wood' smith router (able that has \4" plywood pads at the ~nas ofth~ ~estals: :But as! was mounting the hinges, I discovered that-the thickness of the hinge knuckle has to be less than the thickness of the pads 01' the table will rest on the hinges. Since the 2V," butt binges 1 used' were too thick, I added an extra piece of y." plywood to each of the pads to allow clearance,
MOVING POSITION
RESnNG POSITION
Before the 2x4's are mounted. ,..ride notches are. cut on both ends, This allows the 2x4's to clear the pedestal pads when they're flipped into position. Harold S. Bourgoin BellevlIe, IVashi1lgun,
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A NEW DESIGN FOR AN OLD FRIEND The other day I was at a local discount store and saw a set of "solid wood" 'I: V. ~ .•• They looked like wbat you'd expect from a discount store, but I wanted to see it they were sturdy. They're not. When I touched the ODeon display, it wiggled like a duck at dinner time. Then I began to wiggle when I saw the price tag: $240 for a set of four trays and a stand. That's when Idecided it was tim. to go ahead with our plans to update the original design we ran in issue No. 16. When IheflrstsetofT. V. trays was built, we used an arrangement of dowels and wooden nuts to work as a pivot so the legs could scissor open. This system works, but I ntways wished there '''8S an easier way. Then about. yeur ago, I learned about a new type of hinge that I thOlllfht would bo ideal for T. V. trays. It's culled a Rotc-Hinge. see ~'jg.1. This is actually. very simple device that's just two .-:-_-;-_--:_-:---:-:-:_ wooden drums held together with. rivet. length of 28Y,·. (Note: These hinges work well, but they're This length for the legs will make the a little loose. A couple of healthy tap" on tray about 26" off the noor, which is an "in the rivet will tighten it up.) between" height. Irs. mtle low ifthe tray THE LIGS is used when sitting in 8 chair, and it's a little high for use when Sitting on a couch, I ordered the Rote-Hinges first (see but. good compromise overall. Sources, p. 24), and then started work on ROUNDENDS. After the legs are cut to the legs. First, rip the four legs (A) for length, the four corners of each leg are each tray l!'t" wide and cut them to. rounded to • radius of !'t", see Detail in ~'ig. 3. To do this, I used a quarter (25e) to MATERIALS LIST draw the radius. Then r sanded theeorners OY.roll
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CUTTING DIAGRAM
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HOLES AT TOP 0" L&(;S. There are also
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A "-9' (4' • Stretct..r (1) C c.-ba,(t) o ~t llodts (2) E Frome 5,;1" (2' f Frome Roit .. (2) G Plywood (1) H form.co (2)
to shape on a disc sander. Next, all the edges on both sides of the legs are chamfered. The easiest way to do this is on a router table using a chamfer bit with pilot. (Note: An option is to round over all the edges wilh a Y," comer round bit. This can be done anywhere the project ealls for a chamfer.) MATCI! ~'P LEGS. Next, holes are drilled il) the legs to mount the Rotc-Hinges. However. before drilling the holes, it's best to pair up the legs to determine how they fit together best. If the legs are warped, they should bo matched so the warp doesn't interfere with the folding action, see ~'ig. 2. TeSI each pair of legs fOI'tho best, action and mark the sides that will face each other. DRILL "OL~ Now drill ~" holes on the marked sides for the Rota-Hinges, refer to t'ig. 4. These holes arc looltlecl 12' down from the top of each leg, see Side View in Fig. 3. Note: These holes are not centered on the length of the legs. I wanted to provide a little wider stance at the bottom of 'he legs, so the hinge (pivot pelot) is shifted up a little.
@ ) OUTSIDE l(CS-
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PIV01"BIlOCJ(. Now pivot blocks (D) are neeaed to join the legs to the tray: To make
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th ..se blocks, first eu~ two pleces H~' wfde by 3' long, see Fig. 6. Then drill a 0/." hal. for the Rotc-Hinge, centered on the length and width of the black. Next, counterbore %"~di8. holes in the pivot blocks, and follow with o/t6~·dia. shank holes. (Note: Cheek the depth oflhe
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After the holes are drilled round the 001" ners to a lit radius, see Step 3 in Fig. 6. t\IOUNT -R()T().Hlr<.'(;_eS. BefOl"e mounting the Rote-Hinges, finisll sand ~he legs (especially the inside taces where it will be difficult to get to after the legs are joined), Then glue Roto-}iJnges into the holes to join the tWQlegs. Also, glue Rote-Hinges in place to join the pivot blocks to the outside legs, JIOUNTCROSSIIAR. Now the crossbar (Cl can be mounted. Cut a %·-
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To complete the stretcher; round the corners to a Y.a" radius and chamfer (or round over) the edges on both sides, See Detail jn Pig. 8. Then to mount the stretcher to the 'iegs, coun£er!X>,-;' holes at the ends of the stretcher for No.8 x tW' woodSCl"e\\'S, see Fig, S. After the stretcher is glued and screwed to the legs, filJ the eounterbores with plugs, S811dingthem smooth with the surface of the stretcher,
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the Formica down as you go. Shop Note: The bottom of the pl)'wood must also be covered with Formica. If only one side is covered, moisture from the air can still penetrate the exposed plywood side, and the panel "ill warp. CUT FRoL\lR PIEC£S. Now the frame pieces can be cut to rough size. Rip the rails (F) and stiles (El to a width of lYoo", and cut them 10 rough length (about, y,," longer than shown in t'ig. 9).
cur GROOVES. Next, grooves are eu1.on
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After the legs are built, all that's needed is a tray top. The one shewn in the photo is an oak frame with the Formic. panel. To make the tray, 1 started with the panel. The panel is • piece of W' AlC plywood with Formiea laminated to both side s, Cut the plywood (G) and the Formica (H) oversize (o. least ~'larger in both directions) to allow for trimming . Lo\MJNATE 1'11£ FORo>IICA. Then laminate the Formica to the plywood by .presding oontactcement on both surfaces. When the cement is dry to the touch, place dowet.. along the plywood (see Fig_ 10), and align the Formica at one end of the plywood.
Then removeonedowelat a lime, p~ing
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THE TRAY TOP
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the edges of the frame pieces to accept. the panel, refer to Pig. 11. To set up this cut, use the Formica-covered panel to ndjusl the distance between the fence and tho outside of the blade, ace !'ig. 12. Set the depth of cut to %' and mnke " pass on each frnme piece, !ICeStep 2. Then flip the piece around so the other faeo i~ against the fence, and make another PMS on all pieces, see Step 3. finally, adjustth. fence to clean out the w""te left between the first two cuts. RABBET FORMICA.Mer the groove. nre cut, go back to work on the panel. rirst, trim the panel to linal~ize, see Fig. 9. Then rabbet the back (bottom) side with a ~' rabbeting bit. see f·ig. 13. Sneak up on the depth of cut so the remaining tongue tits snugly in the groo\-es in the frame. CL'TTO LESGTlL Now Ihe frnme pieces can be cut to final length. The stile. (E) are cut to length to match the width of the panel (13¥;'). The rails (F) are cut to length to match tbe distance between the shoulders of the rabbets on the panel (2Ov.") plus the width of the two stiles (I y,,' each), for a total of 23."•. CL'TrosellE$. To join the frame memo bers, cut rabbets at the ends of the .. iles to produce tongue. that fit the grooves, see Fig. 14. C8AMF£R EDGES. Next, I cut • chamfer on the inside edge. of the frame to ease the transition between the panel and the frame. This chamfer is cui along the entire length of the stiles, but must be stopped on the rails. refer to Fig. 14. To make the stopped cut, mark. point 2" WOOOSMITH
from both ends of the rail, see Fig. 15. Then cut the chamfer on • router table so the cuts start and slOI) on these marks. ASSE"t81,i1-~ FRA~I&. ~'ow, the frame pieces ean be glued and clamped to the panel. After the glue i. dry, complete the last W' of the chamfer on the inside edge of the frame with a sharp ch~I, see Fig. 16. Then round the outslde comers 10 • \I.radius, and chamfer (or round over) the outside edges of the fram e. ATTACH TRAY TOP TO UGS
outSIDE
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At last, the tray tOI)can be attached to the legs. To do this,lay the leg Msembly on the tnly and position it so the pivot blocks (D) are equal distance from the side edges of lhe fl'3Jlle. and lV.' from the front edge. see Fig. 17.Then drill pilOl holes and screw the ph'ot blocks in place 11'001)£;< CATCH. To hook the crossbar in place, I made two wooden catches (I), see t';g. J 9, Drill three holes in each block, And cut out the shape of tho catch with a coping saw or on a bandsaw To mount these catches. position them so they're about \I•• from the inside legs (to allow forelearanee)and I~'(rom the back edge of the tray frame, and sere", them in piaee , see Fig. 18. ,'INISHINC. To finish these T. v. trays, I Applied two Coats ofWalco medium walnut to both stain and seal t he wooden parts.
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T-MOLDING W. also tried another version .fthe tray lOp uhing.y, oak plp,ood with plastic T'IQolding 10 eever lhe edR~" To make !hi, panel, cut the pl)"""od 23'Y,long by 16" wide, and round the corners to • I" rll
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you gOl to a eorner, eu.t()ut "v" notches so the molding bends e,••ier, see Fig. 3. When all four corners are cut, pull the molding out of the olot, and spread vinyl· ba-ed adhesive in the .Iot and to the edge of the plywood. Then 1"'" the molding back in pia..,. JOI~me
exes, There·"a neat Jitt)£>
trkk 10 making II elesn joint whore the IWO ends meet. un UI)the tl'aUing end "lid trim back the Reclloll of the 'r· molding that fit. into the groove so it'. flush with the starting end, see Flgs, ~ and 5. Then with n sharp knife, eUI through both laye"" of the over-lapping molding to }ield a clean joint, see fig. 6. \VOODSMITli
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ROLL-AROUND STORAGE We thought it would be niee to have a stand to hold a set of four T.V. trays. And because of the weight of four tra)'$ (it adds up quickly). we designed the stand with casters. This stand is • giant inverted 1"" that holds the trays lean·to fashion. Tobuild it. I started with the base p~. THEBASES.Each base corutiSIJ! of two pieces (A) laminated togelher. see Fig. I. t'inlt cut four pieces of 414 stock to rough size. m' wide by 23'long. (These piee.. Star1.out oversize to provide some room for trimming aft.er they're laminated.) SOTCII&S. Now lay out the posilion of the notches that hold the end. of the tray tables. First mark a lino centered on the length of two of the boards, sec Fig. I. Then mark the location of four pairs of 1(.( holes to form the corners of the notches.
Working from the centerline out, mark the centerpolnts of the holes fOI"the first pair of notches SOthe first hole i8 centered 411." from each side of the centerline and ~. down from the top edge. Then the secondhole oflh. psiri. marked IV.' away. For ~he outside notches the first holes are centered m' from the center- --------tine. and the second holes of the pair are also lW' away. CUI" om NOTCH.Aller the position. of the bole. arc marked on both boards, drill the %'-dia. holes. Then usc a sabre saw or band saw to cut the notches to shape. Finally,sand the edges olthe notches smooth, rounding over the top corners. MATERIALS LIST
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~---------notched boards are laminated to second boards that have large dadoes (or lap joints) centered on their length. (\Vben the two boards arc laminated together. this dado aeuially ereates a mortise for the upright. see Fig. l.} Mark lhe position of this I~'-wide dado soit·... ntered on the length of the board. SF-COSO HOARD.
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'Ihen cut it by making multiple passes over the sawblade. LAlliNATE THEBASE.Now the boards can be glued and clamped together to fonn the bases. As the clamps are tightened. the pieces may slip around • little but try to keep the top edge. and the ends aligo«l. When the glue is dry (evernight). cut the laminatoo pair to final size by trimmingofrthe bottom edge and both ends. Then to complete the bases, round the corners to a W radius. and chamfer all edge.~on a router table. TUE BASE STRETCII&RS. The bases are joined to two stretehe .... (8). Cut these base stretch .... I y,' wide and to rough length (15·~. Then determine the final length by placing on. of the T.V. tray leg a... embli•• in the notches of lhe bases, see Pig. 2. Measure the distance between the inside faces ofthe bas•• , subtract ~. for clear-cinco,and cut the stretchers to this final length. IIAN OL~ AND STRKTCIIE R. Next, to join the uprights. the handle (e) and middle stretcher (0) arc cut to width (se. tlg. 3). and both pieces are cut to the same length as the base stretchers (B). TUt: QA.'/1)LE. After the blank for the handle is cut to size. drill holes to mark the shape of the hsnd·hold.... Fig. 3. Then cut out the shape with sabre sa w; and sand the edges smooth. F~naIly.chamfer (or round over) the top and beuem edge. of the handle and the hand-held. THEUPRIGHTS. The last pieces to cut for the stand are the uprights (E). The up-
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ASSE.M8LY Now that all the pi'_ are cut to final size, they can be assembled. 1 did this by gluing and screwing them together. 'rhe only problem here is drilling the pilot holes for the screws exactly where you \\"Mt them. Since there's no easy way to clamp the pieces together to drill the pilot holes, ( made a drilling gauge to mark the position of the holes. nlF. GAUGE.To make the gauge, cut a piece of 414scrap to the same width as the handle and stretchers (1¥.t" wide), See Fig. o. Then mark two holes centered from the edg
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between the
bases. Then before mounting the uprights, I mounted the casters to the base, see Detail C. in Fig. 7, (it's a lot easier to do it beCore tbe uprights are in the way.) F'inally, glue and screw the stretchers and handle between the uprights, and then glue the uprights in the mortises. \VOODSMITH
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righlSare cut 10 width (Iii") 10 maid> the width of the dado (mortise) in the base, rcfer to Detail B in Fig. 7. Cut them to a length of 331',", and then cut half·laps on the bottom ends to fit the mortises. To complete the uprights, round the top 001".1'8 to V," radius and chamfer the edges, stopping at the sboulder of tbe half.lap on the bottom end.
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9
Louvered Doors A ROUTERJIG TO DO THE JOB l'vea}wayswantedtomakeaset of louvered doors. No, I'U take that back.' What I really wanted 'vas to know how to cut the angled slots that hold th.. Iouvers in place: Coming up with the jig to cut these slots presented an interesting challenge, The slots aU have to be cut at the same angle. and they have to be evenly spaced. Since th°ese are two separate tasks, it's appropriate that the jig I came up with to do this consist$oftwo pa~t, there's a template that guides the router to cut the angled slots on the edge of the stile (vertical piece oftbe door). And second, th~Te'san indexing rail that prcvidea a way to ''walk'' the template down the stile in even, 1" increments. Shop Note; The jig described here could be modified to cut dcuble-stopped slots for the louvers Itbe way most commercial :--:operations do it), but it would also require the USeof a plunge route.r. Instead, we cut slots that are stopped onone end and open.on the other end. The open ends (on the back side of the door) are covered with keeper strips to hold the louvers in place, see Fig. 24. THE INDEXING RAIL
'lb make the jig, I started with the indexing rail. Choose a-straight piece o[ stock 2V," wid. by 24' long, see Fig 1. Design Note: For convenience, the length shown here for the indexing rail is based on building the louvered doors for the cabinet shown on page 14. These doors are 9" wide by 17" long. STOPPIN.After the indexing rail is cut
combination square to the approximate center and mark lines from both sides. Then it's easy to centerpunch a point exactly centered between these lines, see Fig 2. DRILL HOLES. Drjl l the \4' index holes I" deep down the edge of the Tail.Then switch to. countersink bit (or use a Yo" twist bit, as shown in the detail in Fig. 1) to chamfer the edge of the holes so it's aasierto insert the index pin. THE TfMPLATE
The 14 holes on this indexing rail are used to move a template in l' increments. The template, in turn, guides the router so i~ cuts stopped grooves at a 20· angle along the edge of the workpiece (door stile), THE TE~IPLA'I'E. The template consists of a Masonite base with two fences that hold both the -:--::-:::-_::-_-:---:_ workPiece and the .indexing rail tosize,anuay,'holecenteredl!'fromthe in place when the slots are routed, see end of the rail for the stop pin. Since both Fig. 3. (!'tote; The jig we used for the sides of the rail are used, this pin sticks photo has-a Plexiglas base so you can see Ollt on both sides, see GI'
NOTe-:
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MINI,MUM LENGTH FOR:SAmaOOM, CAalNEr DOORS
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hole. centered on the width and 0/." from
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the end of each fence, see Hole Detail in Fig. 3. Then drill 0/0" holes in the base eentered directly below tbe v." holes. (The oversieed holes in the base allow for
tORNER DETAIL
HNet
minor adjustments when the workpiece is mounted in the jig.) LA" our GVII)E sun: Next, a keyhole-
shaped slot i. eut in the base of the template to guide the router at 25°, refer to Fig. 11. To layout this slot, the position of the indexing rail has to he marked on the Masonite base. To do this.lirst bolt one of the fences to the bese, lining up the outside edge of tbis fence so 11.'. nush with the edge oftbe base. see Fig. 4. (From here on this is referred to 88 the "fixed" fence.l .lARK LINes. Draw a line along the edge of the fixed fence, see Fig. 4. Then hold the indexing rail tight against the fixed fenoo and draw another line, see Fig. 5. S!:TT.8&VEI.. Now the centerline of the k.eyholeslot ean be marked. Remove the f",edf.nee and use aslidingT-bevel set to an angle of 25" to mark the eeeterlme of the .lot, 800 Fig. ? Shop Now: The way J set the T-bevelat 256>was to draw two lines 57/a'" apart on a piece of scrap Maaonite. aeeFig. 6.Then J marked Point. A on the rust line so it!s 2;y.' up from tho bottom edge, and marked Point B whore the seeond line intersects the bottom edge. Draw a line eonneeting the two points and a size. sneak up on the width of the slot. cheeking your progresa 80 the guide bushing fits snugly between the edges of the .lot •see Fig.~O. When the slot is complete. attacb both fences to the base with carriage bolts and wing nuts, .. e Fig. 11. WOODSMITI-!
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--#o\ARI( OUTSlDfc EDGEOF i,Alt 0 DEtERMINE LENGTH Of STili
Once the indexing rail and the template are complete, all that's needed isan index pin to position the template along the indexing rail. INDEX PIN. The index pin is a 3" hex head bolt with the head cut ofT.To make it a Ijttle easier to work with. I cuta wooden d.iscand attached it to the threaded end of the bolt, see Detail in Fig. 12. cersruzs, Thejig isready to use anhis point - now it's just a matter of cutting the stiles to size. mounting them in the jig, and routing the slots. However. J round it's a lot easier to work with stiles that are cut to double width. That is. cut a workpiece wide enough for two stiles, plus an extra ~ .. to trim them to final width, see Fig. 12.AlIIO,this piece should be cut about 3" longer than needed and trimmed to finallengtb aficr the slots are cut. (A workpiece 3.!N'" wide by 20" long is needed for the stiles on the bathroom cabinet door.) MOU.''T \VORKPIECE TO RAIL. Clamp this workpiece to the indexing rail 80 the top edges are flush, and the back ond is firmly against the stop pin, see Fig. 12. ."OONTTE"PLAl'E. Before mounting tho routing template, make sure the fixed fence is flush with the outaide edge ofthe Masonite base and tightened down firmly. Then place ~he template on tho top edge of the clamped assembly (sec End View in Fig. 12), and push the acijustable fence snug against the workpiece and tighten down the wing nuts. llOur SLOTS.Place this whole ..... mbly in a vise and insert the index pin in the first bole oflhe indexing rail, see Fig. 13. Then to rout the slots, mount a V.... straight bit and a 0/,." (outer diameter) guide bushing in the router, and sct the aepth of cut to rout a Yo"·deepslot. Now tip the router on the template 110 the guide bushing goes into the keyhole slot and rout to the end efth.slot. (In ease the slot is fractionally wider than the bushing, rout against one side of the slot and then against the other side.) From here on things get boring. Just keep moving the index pin to the next bole and rout the next slot (see Fig. 14) until 14 slota are routed. FLIPPESCES- After the slota are routed on one edge or the workpiece, the fenees on the template have to be flipped to the other side of the base to rout the slota on the other edge. What you want to do here is switch the fences from the bottom of the jig to the top, keeping them On the same edges of the base as before, See Step 1 in Fig. 15. Then remount the carriage bolta, see Step 2. Now flip the jig over (see Step 3) and it's in position to rout the slota on the other edge of the stile. WOODSM1Tli
•
I
REMOUNT WOIlKJ>lEC£. Since the jig is flipped around. the workpiece has to be flipped and mounted to the other side of the indexing rail. Switch it around SO the first set of slots are now on the bottom edge hut still "poinang" to the indexing rail, see Fig. 16. ROI1l'SLOTS. After swit<:hing the workpiece. mount the template and rout the slots on the other edge of the workpiece. When you'", done. it should look like what's shown in Fig. 16. cer '10 FINAL SIZE. After the slots are routed on both edges, rip two 1y,··wide stiles from the workpiece. sec Fig. 17.
CUTTO LEN(:TIJ. Now mark
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the position
of the rail. on both ends of the stile. At the top end, square a line across the stile at the stopped end of the first slot. see Fig. 18. Meaaure up l' and square another line. From this second line. mark off the width of the rail (lV."). and cut off the top eod of the stile here. This procedure positions the top rail 80
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..' lOUVER DETAI~
only 1" of the top louver is showing, see
CUT IlANK
Fig. 22. This is done to make the top louver look like all the others. ('I'hey all overlap so you only see 1·of their width.) B01TO)1 END. To cut offthe bottom end of the stile. square across the end ofthe last slot and mark off the width of the rail (IYo,!from this line. see Fig. 19. THE 00011PRAME. To complete the door. cutmortises in the stiles. (Sec IVoodsmilil No. 26 for n step-by-step article on cuiting mortise nod tenon joints.) Then cut the rails to aize and cut tenons to 6t the mortises. see Fig. 20. After the joints are cut. dry-assemble the frame to make sure everythjng·6ts. but don't glue it together - the louvers have to 00 cut fiTSt.
LONG tHOUGH
TO PRODuce TWO LOUVERS fROM tACH HALf
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THE LOUVIRS
The louvers are V.··tl:rickslats that arc resawn (ripped on edge) from 414 stock, see Fig. 21. The tricky part i. cutting them to the right width. You want the hack edge of the louver to 00 flush with the hack face of the door, see Fig. 22. Cut a ren piece and round the edges with a V.· round-over bit, see Detail in Fig. 21. Then test the fit in the slots. When you get a piece thOl's the right width. resaw all the louvers. round the edges. and cut them to length to fit between the .Iou;. ASSEMBLE FRAME. Now the door frame can be assembled. However, the top louver has to 00 in place. Cut this louver to {itunder the roil. see Fig. 22. Then clamp the frame together and let it dry. K££P£RSTRIPS.Now mount the rest of the louvers. see Fig. 23. To hold them in pIace, mow,t keeper strips to the hack side of the door frame. see Fig. 24. These strips are mitered to length and screwed to the frame with 1'>" br""" screws. \VOODSMITH
"OUIltE 24
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13
Bathroom Cabinet WITH LOUVERED DOORS After I built the louvered doors. I needed a way to show them off 80 I decided to build this bath-
wanted them I<> overlap the top and bottom of the cabinet see Frent View in Fig. 1.'lb produoc this:v.· overlap, the middle dado must be positioned so there's a 16V." opening between tho top nnd bottom of the cabinet. 8
V.·.
room cabinet. It may seem a
little backwards to build the doors fint, but I felt they were the trickiest part. of the wbole cabinet - and presented the best chance (or variations in the final dimension8. Once the doors were built, it W88 relatively easy to build the ca binet to fit. THE CABIN"
SIDES
I started work on the cabinet by cutting the .ides (D) to size - 6" wide by 29Y." long. see Fig. I. DADOES. The.idesarejoined to the top and bottom of the eabinet and a shelf with dadolrabbet jointa. 10 do thi•• the first step is to rout three v.·-wide by V.·-deep dadoe8 in both side pieces.
TOI'OWO. The dado at the top of the cabinet i8 positioned so the distance from the bottom edge of the dodo to the top edge of the side piece i8 equal to the thickness of the eabinet top (E). see Joint D.tail in Fig.!. 'IIOD~E DAOO. The position of tbe next dado (for the bottom of the cabinet) i. determined by the height of the doors. The doors I built were I r high. and I AGUlt I ,
THI CABIN£J
The side. of the cabinet are joined to the top and bottom pieces rE) and the lower shelf (F). To cut these three pieces I<> size, rip the top and bottom
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MATIRIALS LIST
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pieces 6" wide (00 match the width of the side pieces). Then rip the shelf to a width of 41/2", see Fig, 2. These pieces have 00be cut 00length so
when they're joined to the cabinet sides the final width of the cabinet equals the width of the two doors. (On the cabinet I built tbis length turned. out to be I7Vs", which allows for the two'Mo'-longtongues to fit in the dadoes; see Fig. 2.) Cm"l'ONG'UES. After cutting these three pieces 00lengtb,l cut rabbets on each end to produce a tongue to.fit the .dadoes in the side pieces. (The tongue on theshelfis trimmed beck 00 fit the stopped dado.) GRoovESFq~ IJ.\CK.JS"owthe grooves for the plywood back can be cut. Set up the router table to rout 1I••"-deep stopped groove. in the sides (D) \4" f,om' the baC!< edge, see Fig. I,Then use the same set-up 00ro.ut the grooves fo. the plywood back on the oop and bottom pieces (E). GAJlIN£1' B"CK. After the grooves are cut, dry-assemble the cabinet and, take measurements fo> the plywood back. Then cut it to fit in the grooves. SIIAPETIfE SIDS PlRCflS. The last step is 00cut the curved shape on the front edges of the side pieces. First, maek.a pojnf Va" down from the cabinet bottom (El, see Sid. View in Fig. 2. Then draw a gentle curve from tIIis point to a line J.I'back'from the front edg•. This line extends until it intersects a 2' radius drawn at the bottom corner. Cut this profile on the side pieces and sand the edges smooth with a drum sander. ASSE.mLF.CAU!NET. Now finish sand all th.e interior surfaces of the pieces and glue and clamp the cabinet together. TUE CAP PrECF.. While the glue was dry. ing, I cut the cap piece (0) for the cabinet. This piece is cut to length so it cverhangs .both sides 0/.( (see Fig. 4), and to width so it overhangs the front edge of the side pieces 1Yo', see Side View in Fig. 2.
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hinge mortises in the 'cabinet sides and
the door,.see Fig. 6. (I cut the mortises i~ the door first. Then mounted the hinges and aligned them on the sides to mark the position for the other nap.) Also mount a magnetic catch, door knobs, and shelf standards (for two glass shelves inside the cabinet), see Fig. 5. ,IOUNTINC SYS1'EM. The 18$1 step is to make the mounting system. Thi.s consists oftwo bars.that have one edge ripped to a 30' angle, see Cross Section in Fig. 6. Mount one bar 00 the cabinet and the other to the wall so the beveled edges interlock 00hold the cabinet to the wall.
#.8 ~
It! WOOOSCItEW
R()UND-OVE~611'
After this piece was cut- to Size, 1 rounded the frent edgeand both ends 00a modified bull- nose profile using a \4" round-over bit on the router table, see Fig. 3. Then this cap is screwed 00 the cabinet top, sea Fig, 4', MOUNT DOORS. 'lb mount the <100\'$, cut
fRONT, VIEW CROSS SECTION
CROSS SECTION ,.... kEEPER STltIP
15
Three,..W~yShelf
FOR MUGS, COATS O~R~~~-----
A place to hang your hat and eoat,... or your mug ... or your towel. The design of this shelf is "e,ible enough that it tan easily be changed to a hallway coat rack, or a kitchen mug rack, or a bathroom towel bar. And it's nl80designed to break down so it can move with you. This proj""t hilSfour main parts: a shelf assernbly made with slats and cleats, two brackets, and a back. J started with the shelf assembly. SHUf
ASSEMBLY
The shelf is made up of five slats (A) beld together by three cleats (B). SLATS. To make the slats (A), first rip five piece. of 414 stock (,¥,. thick) to a common width of l~·. The length of the slats can vary depending on your needs. J wanted to be able to hang the shelf on two wall studs (16" on center). So I did a little figuring to determine what length the slats would have to be to 10· este the bracket. 32" on center and came up with a length or 8W,". Aftercutting the slats
to length, round over the t4p edge. of each slat with a v,' round-over bit, see Fig. 3. )IARK POSITION OF HOLES. Once the edges are routed, three screwboles are drilled in each slat to attach the cleats. To mark the locationof these screwholes, line up the ends of all five slats and draw tines acroos them with a square. Draw a line 1~' from eacb end (this will position the bratkets 82" on center), and at the exact center of the length, see Fig. 3. CIlOSSLIN£S. Next, draw crosslines centered on the width of each slat. The ensiest way to locate the center is with a combinationsquare, see Fig. I. Set the square for just" smidgeon less fiGURE 1
than half the width of a slat (Yo"), measure
in from each edge, and put marks. Splittlng the dilference between the marks will locate the exact center. Then punch the centers with an awl. DRILL HOLES. The screws at each of the points are sunk below the surface of tbe slat and covered with woodplugs, see Fig. 3. To drill the holes ror the screws, first eounterbore a W-di a. hole ~. deep at each intersecting point. Then a hole is drilled the rest of the way through to accept the shank or n Al8 flathead screw. CLEA'I\l. With the slnt... completed, work can beginon Ihe cl eats (8). Since the cleats
lJIi'
are all the same length and one end is rounded over on .11 of them, I found it easiest to layout all three cleats on a single 5" wide board, see Fig. 2. Cut the board to a finished length of 9V.", and then round over one edge on one end with a v.... roundover bit. MARKPILOT 1I0Lt~~. nefore cutting the cleats apart, mark the locationof the pilot hole lines (or the screws. F'irst draw a tine
fiGURE 2 CUTHOM 4'. STOCt( flV..'"
UII
COMItNAflON SQUoUt
to MAl. eaoSSl!HIS
16
.' fl. CUAT THIU MetS)
-
_"'i"'
e II ·1
WOOOSMITH
'III' back from the front edge (on the OPposite/ace from the rounded edge). Then
draw four more lines,2" apart. Now, the three cleats can be ripped I~N ",'de. Th mark the location oC the pilot holes, draw crosslines centered on the "idth of each cleat, using the same com,bina!ionsquare,method that-was used with the-slats, Finally, center punch each point with an awl and use. a 'YJ2 hit to drill a -deep pilot hole at each point. ASSE,mLY. With the holes drilled in both the slats and cleats, assembly can begin. Start by screwing(#8 x INflathead screws) and gluing the two outsid¢ cleats 10 the first and last. slats, see Fig. 8. Make sure this partial assembly is square. Then screw ana glue the remaining slats and cleats together, checking the assembly each time a new sjat is added to make sure
'~::====~~~~~~_:N:a:TE:
*"
jt's square,
::
ON
GLUE ANI) ~CJl£W OUlS10E SLATSTO END (IlATS, CHKM fOR 5CWARE
------.5
RGUR£
'!
The final step on the shelf assembly is to glue I1oN·dia. plugs into the counterbores, Then chisel 01' cut them off, and sand Ilush with the surface or the slat.
GlUED UflLANI( FOR8AAcWS
f4,r4 STOCK_'¥o."'
The completed shelf assembly rests on two brackets CO). !3olh brackets are cut ou~ofa single 9" x 15' blank made from ghied-up stock,.see Fig. 4. ..e,fter t,,~.blankis squared up, layout n cardboard template as shown in Figure 4. Then use .the template to trace two brackeis onto Lhe_blank.After.cutting them out. file and sand the curves to finished shape. fr you'l·e· inqlu~ing the towel bar in the design, drill. r-
is routed
"I
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'-~----+-~w------------~'"rr 2'';-'/f' I I BRACKETPAnE.llli
e
e
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LOCATION FOR 1"' OIA.
rowe 8AR
.' 10'
~3>;
\
~
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' I. •
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I
~ 'h:..::_·. ..--.; (___TRACE f'A1T'ER,tt ONTO 8LANK WITH CAROBOARD TtMP'lAlE
j •
NOTE GRAtN OIA;ECTION
'.
•
)
FIGURE (I
RGUaE'
on
the back edge, see Fig. 5. Rout the mortise by making two passes with a 14N straight bit on a router table 01' nith a hand-held router and edge guide. After the mortise is routed, a section of the slot needs to be drilled out to accept.the head of the screw that will be in the wail 1'0 do this, drill two 'Yoi' holes side-by·side and then chisel out the waste between the holes, $I!{! Fig. 6. Finally, screw the keyhole hanger in the mortise with two No., 8 x 0/4~'screws, see Fig. 7. STO.I'PE0 RABB&T. After the mortises for the hangers are complete, a stopped rabbet is. routed on the inside back ed~ of each bracket to accept the back (1), see Fig. 8. Since the stopped rabbet is to be %N wide and *oN deep, • %' rabbeting bit can be used 10cut it,in two passes, see Stepa 1 and2in Fig. 8. Start and stop the cut just. bit short of the end lines and finish by cleaning it up with a sharp chisel.
WOODSM1TH
t-!--2,,"-
ACTOA"
BRAOCET
BRACKETS
a o/uJ".odeep,~uj."-wide mortise
I-Y'.... AUSucrS WIDE
ATlACI'f KEYHOLE
"ANGE.· WITH TWO
#tI
x '6o
a
WOOO SCREWS
NQTE,
fiGURE 8
IF INCtUDI~~ rowa liAR, DRILL'''HOlEl~''
1
[)fE', <9
n.Sf 'ASS-ABOUt HAlf. TOTAl DtPllt
17
AGUIlE '1
alACK"
. §J
,1.~
'IOURI 10
T,
~."OOWll., LONO;>
,r .
•
MOUNTING THE IUCKUS
_.
AOUIlII
Alter the stopped rabbets are routed, the
COUNTU$oIHK
,
brackets are mounted to the shelf assembly. I decided not to fasten the braekets permanently since I wanted to be able to Ulke the whole unit 3par1. ror moving or storage. Rather, Iused two short locating pins in the top of each bracket to locate and stabilize the entire assembly. To mount the pins, drill two 0/6" holes, 14' deep in the bottom ofthe second and fourth slats. The holes are cenlered on t he width. of these slat. and located 'Yo" rrom the inside edge of the two outside cleats, gee Fig, 9. USING I)()W~L CEN'I'ERS. Aller drilling the holes in the slata, use ¥s" dowel centers to mark the location of the matching' hol~s on the top edge of the brackets, Finally, glue two 'Yo' dowels. 0/01' long into the top of each bracket. Then round over the end of each dowel with $andpnper to help them slide into the matching hole s,
SC'RE'WSIN BAa
f'OSmON TOwn IAR auoaE ATlACtUNGlACK
The linaI piece to cut is the back (0). It's ripped to a width or 5' (to match the stopped rabbet on the bracket). 'Th delermine the length of the back, tum the shelf a.ssembly upside down and hold the brackets straight up against the cleats. Then measure the distance between tbe brackets and add the depth or both stopped rabbets, see Fig. 10. In my case this came to a total of :!:M". Alter the back is cut to length, rabbet the ends to produce 'Y.' thick tongues that 6t in the stopped rabbets in the brackets. see Fig. 11. Finally, round over the front edges. with a ~I' round-ever bit. LOCATINGmE PEGS. lr you are making the coat or mug rack, possible layouta for the holes are shown in Fig. 13. A1'tACHING '1'1IE BACK. Finally, the back is placed in the stopped rabbets in the brackets and hole. are drilled for <1'8 x 1Yo" flathead wood screws, see Fig, 12. FINISH. 'Th finish the .helf, I sanded all the surfaces smoeth and then applied two coats of Hope'. Thng Oil.
18
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T " _L
lACK
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1"
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lfNGTH MAY VARY
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MATERIALS LIST
t
SHAAtI KO
DIAGRAM
0v.nJ1l DitNNiOf'c :STV,· w", d II 10Vc· h
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'at.. x 1¥. • 31% ''A. II t.~. 91/..
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(6)
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WOODSMITtI
Router Bits WHICH ROUT TO TAKE board, or plastic laminates, carbide-tipped
Back in lI'ood8milh, No. 31 we ran an article about buying routers, 'Ib compare
bits are the WIlY to go. The cutting edge on carbide-upped bits holds up longer than high speed steel because it's an extremely hard material (close to the hardness of diamonds) and is also los. susceptible to the effects of overheating (losing It's temper),
the routers, we looked at several features. But there WlUI one part of the router we didn't discu6s- nnd it's probably the most imll
Oom'on, YOU'\'q got; to be kidding. How can you scriou~ly recommend those cheap
biLs? They're bearly sharp enough to cut soft butter, they burn up the first time you use them, and they're the kind where you have to screw the bit and the pilot to an interehaageable arbor. Right. I'm not saying they're the best bits in the world. Idon't even think Sears would try to imply that. But they are a ~p set to get started with. IT you don't use them mu
Either wny, onee you've decided to move up, getling quality - the right kind of quality - In a router bit is important, Which I. to say, just because the bit is expensive or has carbide tips doesn't mean it's the best choice. HIGH ~PEEI) STEt~t..The fIrst choice to make when looking at router bits is between bits made OUt of high speed steel or bits that are tipped with tungsten carbide. The biggest advantage of high speed steel (HSS) bits is cost. They're generally about, one-third the COOIt of carbide bits. But it's wrong to think of all ass bits as cheap, throw-away bits, Bosch, PorterCable. and Hanson (to name three) make WOODSMtTH
However, there are some disadvantages carbide. In addition to being hard, carbide is also brittle - brittle to the point that it chips easily. Carbide bits are also expensive. And since we're talking about
no small investment in carbide router bits,
SOme\'eJ'j' HSS bits that are incredibly In fact, high speed steel wiD produce a edge than carbide. (UnforlUnal
son. woods, or when you
11(1;0(1
a specialty
bit that will receive only limited use, However, it's also easy to get into a pri<'Cibenefit trap with the HSS bits. Since carbide bits cost "bout three times that of HSS bits, It's e33Yto ratlonalize: "I can buy three high·speed steel bits, use them until they wear out and still be ahead of the game Over carbide bits." The problem is that in some applications. HSS bits wear out VeJ)' quieklJ," They tend to dull quickly when used on hardwoods and can bum up when used to rout plywood or particle board. Shop Note: Plywood and particle board arc especially hard on router bits of any kind. The adhesive used to make plywood is very hard on" tends La dull the eutting edges of HSS bits very quickly.
This, in turn, creates another problem:
heat. A. the biL becomes dull it beats up faster, The heat, can become great enough to actually draw the temper in the steel (you call sec it turn blue), Since there's 8 natural resiseanee to throwing away IIny tool, the dullHSS bits tend to be used beyond the point of immediate frustration - when the bit immediately bums the wood and burns jL,
c.ut810g.TIPP~O B.TS.The alternarive is carbide-tipped bits. Admittedly. thec:ostof carbide bila Is enough to make you think twice txlforc bu)1ng. However, if you're working co.lAist.ently with hardwoods, or abrasive materials like plywood, particle
getting your money's worth quickly becomes importanL What do you look for? TlUCKNIlSS Of CARBltl£. One of the first indications of quality (or lack of it) is tbe thickness of the carbide tip. The thicker the carbide, the more limes it can be sharpened before it need. to be replaced. That's the theory anyway, In reality, carbide bits are not resharpened that enen. So the thlckness of the carbide is really" matter of "it's the thought that counts." Usually, thicker carbide ,ndlcaoo$ the quality and CIIl'C the manufacturer puts into making his bits, CRtJ
B1TS v•• Mt11.TI.PIECB BIT$..
Most carbide bits are one piece: the cutting profile is permanently attached to the shank. But Sears, Porte ....Cable and Stanley make multi- piece carbide·tipped bits. These have a .wlldard arbor that will accept different cutting hellds, The idea is that it's less expensive to buy just one arbor and then fit several cutting heads with difTerent prontes on it. \Ve still have several Sears interchangeable bits around the shop, At least parts of
them. The various heads, nuts, washers, bushings, and pilots have managed to find hiding place s. Besides the h.1..<8le of keeping track of all these small p&r'I
19
of router bit~ that's better than the others? Which i~best: Bosch, Porter-Cable, Freud, Black and Decker, or Sears? This is on. oHhefew times when talking about woodworking toolB that the choice between brands is almost impossible to make, It's kind of like choosing between Coke and Pepsi. There are some slight
edge and are designed for maximum chip clearance. 'I'hls means )'OU can feed the router faster through the workpiece but the cut will be fairly rough. Double flute bits give a smoother cut but there will be more resistance so you 'have to feed it a Uttle slower.
differences, but. when you're looking at
SINGl£ Fl,UTE
brand name carbide- tipped touter bits, a bit is a bit, For the most part, I look at price. B...
N
yond that, it's a matter of selection or
DOUBLERUTE
variet.y. Everybody carries .straight, bit!!
and round..uver bits, but each manufacturer has some specialty profiles or sizes Ehat the others might not carry. RECOMMENDED BITS
At the beginning of thi~ article, I was talking about the relative merits of buying a cheap set of high speed steel bits versus buying carbide bits right from the start. Because oHhecost involved, the biggest problem with buying carbide bits is knowing which ones Yo"'re likely to use often enough to justify· the price of carbide. I've been trapped both ways in the past. At first, I bought only HSS bits. Then when I discovered the merits of carbide, [
decided that was-the only \\!ay to go. But in some cases, J have to admit that J think I wasted money on some spc.cialt.}' carbide
bits that I \\'OU11d up using only a CC\\'times when a HSS bit would have done just fln e. Okay, which bits should be carbide and which ones lISS? In fact, if you're going to buy carbide bits, which ones should be considered first? There are a few bits 1 would consider part of a primary set for building the kind of projects we show in lVood8nlitlt. But buying them as a complete sel.migh~ not be practical because of the high initial cost. Just to give some indication of the kind of investment we're talking about, we've listed the "average cost" of each bit, (This
"average cost'! was obtained from five manufacturers: Black and Decker, Bosch, Freud, Por t e r- Cable, and Sears
"Professional' .) STRAIGHT 81TS
First .on the list is a collection of at least three straight bits, plus two more if you want a complete.set. Listed in the order of
most.use, they are: <\' STRAIGHT OIT. CAR810E·TI~PEO. 2 FLuTE. (Average cost: $11.31). This is per-
haps the most basic bit and it gets considerableuse in our shop. It can be used for cutting dadces, rabbets. grooves, and mott.ises for hinges. But for being such a basic bit, there are several controversies associated ",ith it. First, is itbest to get a y." straight bit with one flute or two? Single flute bits have only one cutting
20
STRAIGHTBIT
The other decision that bas to be made \.;jth y."' straight 'bits is the length: the longer the bit, the greater the chance of its breaking. I've started using straight bits with a maximum·orl!' of cutting edge. This
decreases breakage, along with chatter and vibration. W S~RAIGIIT BIll'. IUGII SPEED STEIIL.
(Average cost: $2.43). This small straight bit has some obvious uses for detail work,
like 2"Outing recesses for marquetry (see IVoodsmitit No. 28).
inlays
But it would seem that a "'" slJ:aight bit is far too small for general woodworking, Bxactly the opposite is true. This. bit is almost mandatory in two COrnman circumstances. A ~"bit is needed when you have to cut • groove or dado ror V," hardwood plywood. Although construction (fir) plywood is generally very close to Y." thick, almost all the hardwood plywood we've worked with is considerably Iess.man V,' thick. So, a Yo" straight, bit is needed to cut greoves and dadoesin two passes to fit the actual thickness of the plywood. The other primary use for a ~" straight bit is for ~utting the grooves for spline joints. We've used this tYPe o( joint on several projects tojoin the ends of mitered pieces to form • frame. (Refer to Wood.""itll No. 21.) The V.· bit seems easier to control and produces a better groove than working with • larger y." bit. This is one bit where it's difficult to decide between high speed steel or carbide. Iuse it enough tojustifycarbide, but the HSS version is cheap enough (average eose: $2.43) to make it disposable when it gets dull. II' STRAIGHT 81'r. CARBIOI>··Tll'PEO.
(Average cost: $12.93). After the y.' and V." straight bits, it's a tough choice between the and !t.o" sizes. probably use the Y.j" bit. little more often. It's used a great deal on the router table to cut rabbets and grooves. Even when 1 have to cut a VI'-wide rabbet on the edge or a board, I use the V:t' bit because it produces a smoother cut with less chipping.
*"
'V.
Also, when cutting ¥."-wide dadoes or grooves, most of the time it's better to make two passes with a y," bit, sneaking up on the ,,;dlh for a perfect fit, rather than one pass with a 0/.0" bit.
4,
"I
W STrtAlGJJT BIT ANI) .Vi- STJL\JGJIT BIT. CAllII(O£·TIPP£I). (Average cost: $l2.04
and $14.58). If you' ..e working within a tight bu~get fo. the. shop, %" and 0/." bits can 00 added as needed. Howev .. ~T would probably not mess around with high speed steel first and replacing with carbide. I'd go right to carbide on these straight bits. This ·is especially true on the large'll" straight bit. It takes out such a chunk "ith each pass that it tends to heat up quickly. Carbide is needed to withstand this heat. Also thill size bit is often used for cutting grooves in plywood. And since plywood tends to destroy HSSbits, carbide is about the only way to go. ROUND-OVER 8ITS
Also included in the primary set of bits is a selection of round-over bits. Before we go any further, there's a problem to address: what to call these bits. They generally go by four different
names: round-over; rounding over, corner round and quarter round. In addition, if a smaller pilot is used' so a second shouldeican be produced. th~y call be calied beading bits. II.'" RQUND-OVER BIT ROUND-OVER WITH
~;" sKouloea
ROUNo.OVEft WITH SMAlLER PilOf (lREATlS 8£AotNG 8(1
One note about these bits: the pilot. Round-over bits come with a pilot to guide the I>it. But there are two kinds of pilots. Most HHS bits (and Some carbide bits) come with fixed pilots that rotate at t·he same speed as the bit. This-means the Rilot rubs against the workpiece at high s!l'*d and burns the edge. The fixed pilot also tends to collect resin from the, wood which compounds the burning problem. This is one of the primany reasons for frustration with HSS bits. (Note: There's a replacement ball bearing pilot for the Sears HSS bits that's well worth buying.) On the other hand, most carbide bits come with ball bearing pilots that "jl1ually eliminate burned edges. Vo- ROUND·OVER BIT. CARt)IIl'E·TIPPF.O.
(Average cost: $24.9Zj. Of all the roundover bits, the Y4"size is the one that gets the most use in our shop. When working on contemporary pieces. it's used to round the edges. While on period furniture. it can be WOODSMITH
tm
set ror a sUghtly deeJl(lr cut to include a ment. My first choice would be • Roman ,
shoulder,
see
ogee
drawing.
W ROIINI)·OYERUIT. CAI!BIOE·TIPPED.
(Average cost: .$29.22). A !I," round-over bit is also quite useful, but it is. without a
doubt, quite expensive. At an average cost
or almost $30. this is one time
when you might think twice about the merits or earbide vs. high speed steel. I would still choose carbide. We'\'c come-to use the Y2- round-over bit ror two profiles that seem to find their way
bit. The carbide version of these bits is very expensive, and you have to Rsk "0\'-' often you're going to use the ogee profile to dress up an edge. But in this case, the bit can be used in other ways, sec drawing. ROMAN OGEE
err
But when it. comes to router bits. I've
into n number of projcel$. The first. is a eo(l.cned bullnose profile. Rather than using a :Y." bit on both edges to produce a full bullnose (a half-round edge), a 14' bit is set to a sballow depth-of-cut to produce a soner curve and a very pleasant edge. see drawing.
r~
'h" ROUND-O'LE!LBJI
,
$OFJ'N'O OUUNOSO
..,.J...
00[( HOFIL( WITH
sou AI, $HOllLDEa
.-/ --~M~il:---.. -"'-'-O-lUN""V" -or
'ON
TOP
Another profile we Uko is what we call the "thumb" prolile. Here a Y.' round-over bit is used on the bottom half or the edge, combined with Q VI' round-over bit on the top half. see drawing. SPECIALTY BITS In addition to the straight bits and round· over bits listed above, there are four specialty bits worth considering as part of a plimary set. \+. I)OV!lTAI~ BIT. CA'IIIIIH;.TIPPEI).
(Average cost: S14.66.) Unless you're a fanatie ror maJring hand-cut dovetails, a W dovetail bit is mighty handy for making dovetail drawers. Of course. you need lhe dovetail routing fixture to go along with iI, but the whole set-up is worth having. In addition to cutting drawer joints, this bit is also used to CUI. dovetail tongue and groove.
ttO'
R;\BBETINC RIT, CARUIOE·TIPP80.
(Average cost: $24.32). Although almost every project we build has a rabbet on it somewhere. we seldom use a rabbeting bit. One reason is the limitation ol the wldlh of cut. Another problem Is with tearout on the bottom of the cut. (See Talking Shop> page 22 for more on this.) But when you need to cut. rabbet on the inside edge of an assembled frame, particularly a curved rrame, • rabbeting bit becomes indispensible.
¥.
~yRO)IA.'t OCEE BIT. CARBIDE-TIPPED.
(Average cost: $31.84). There are a few decorative bits that are worth the Invest-
\VOODSMITH
them clean with 0000 steel wool. One note here: When eleaning bits with ball be!lring pilots, remove the pilot before dipping the bit in the cleaner. The pnrtlcles of dissolved resin ean seep into the bearing and gum It up so badly it won't tum at all, SllARVE~ING. \Vhen it comCl$to the subject of .harpening rooter bits, I have a few thoughts that run contrary to the way r usually work with and maintain tools. Iusually try to learn how to sharpen the tools and keep them in good working order.
DOJl(lndingon the depth of cut. it can be used to produce a small cove cut. By in· creaaing the depth or cut, it produces the double curve ogee profile. And by lowering it to II1lI depth it adds a square shoulder to the ogee profile. ., •• GROOVE.HIGHSPEED STEEl •. (Average cost: ~.67).The ·V"groove is anotber decorative bit that I would add to the ~up. Although its primary use is to cut V-grooves, It can also be used (on a route" table) to chamfer edges. Although we use tbis bit quite often, we've been able to get by with the high speed steel version. COSCLlJSIO~'S.Okay, whal about 810tting culten and core box bits? No two weedworkers' lists of recommended router bits will ever be the same. But I've tried to
include all the bits we use on tl more or less ~eg"lar basis for the projects sbown in lVoodsmill!. Suro there are times when we use a truly special bit (a panel raising bit. a slotting cutter, or a keyhole bit, for example) for specific projects. At that point it's a matter deciding the value of the bit for Ibat particular project.. (There's usually some way I can justify spending money on woodworking tools.) But. no matter what style of bit or whether it's HSS or carbide-Upped. router bits only do their job tor two basle reasons: the speed at which they tum, and the fact they're sharp. The router provides the speed. But keeping them clean and sharp is another problem. CARJ AND SHARPENING Just like saw blades, router bits eollece pitch and resin as they're used. This u8uaUy causes burned edges nnd can impede the cutting action or the bit. Fortunately, it doesn't lake much to clean router bits. r soak them in Sean; Gum and Pitch Remover lor a while and wipe
developed some second thoughts about sharJl(lning them in the shop. Carbide bits can be sharpened with a diamond hone ealled Eze-Lap (see Sources, p, 24). These bon ... are like emery boards except tbey're coated with diamond particles. I've sbarpened a few bits using the medium and fine-grit diamond hones. But to be honest. I'm not sure this i. the best way to approach sbarpening carbide bits . There are three basic problems: First, some bits (particularly small-diameter straight bits) don't have enough clearance in the flute to use the diamond hone. Second, on the bits that can be sharp-
ened. the surface is very small, which makes it difficult to control the hone to make sure )IOU're applying even PI"CSSU1'e so one area is not being rounded over, And third, it's very difficult to make sure the same amount of material Is being removed from each lIute (cutting edge). Note: Wben using a diamond hone, only work on tbe face (fiat) side of the carbide tip. The outer edge should not be honed because the clearance angle could very easily get messed up (and ~be bit won't cut, properly). Also, on bits ,,1t·hcurved edge s, it's almost impossible to keep the same shape on both flutes (eutting edges). So. only hone the race (flat) side. Besides the diamond hones, I've also tried using the Sean; router bit sharpening attaebment - it's excellent for raising your blood pressure, but takes enormous patience to geL it set up to actually sharpen router bits. There's 8 better way: When the bit starts getting dull, I take It to • professional shop to have it sharpened. 'rho shop we go to charges about SO to sharpen • carbide-tipped bit, and they have the equipment to do thejob right. (They use. 400-grit diamond Wheel, and the bits come hack extremely sharp - in much better condition than I could produce by band.) CONCLUSIONS.Wben the router bits are sharp, they will do their job. In f"ct, when I'm using a nice sharp bit, l've come to think oflhe bit as the tool and the "outer as the accessory. And the nicest part of all ibis is that it only takes a limited number of bits ro do. 101or work - an investmenl that's well worth it.
21
Talking Sho
~---
AN OPEN FORUM FOR COMMENTS AN o QUESTIONS ROUTER ROTATION It! Woodsmith No. 36, the... '008.'''' article
i"Sh"ll Notes on ,'OUtillf1tabllels1
Since the workpiece is fed in the same direction as the rotation of the bit, the bit tends topull the workpiece in the direction of feed - almost as if it's self-propelled. The force of the bit increases as the depth or width of the cut is increased - to the point that the workpiece can 'be pulled out of your hands (kind of like kickback in reverse) - a dangerous aituataon.
Cedtlre prod'uc6s SltclJ. a 8»100tl, cut. In
Tegular qr lortoord 'routing, the toorkpiece i.fed. i,d" the router tnt .,< a direction oP'/Wsiteth.rotatioll oflhe [)it. lwthi« case. tne cutteru co"'ing from the boU",,, of the Cllt and is puslting the cllip "p to the sur· face. (This i. called up milling 1ll¬ tat
KNeE
i,.
1JJO)·k.)
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-
.-
The problom, i. that lhe·malerial aloll9 the edge of the piece isn't '''pported. TMs alJow8the chips being,pushed ahood of the cutter to break allt, or spli'lltertILe1JUUeli«l a/<)'llgthe edge lief")" the clltter')'ooches the surface and OOl'I. make a.. elea·]" Cltt. (Ed.
V~~
See drawing.) lV}'6'" "takitlg a backlOG':!/. cui; the ll.:orkpiece is fed. ill tne same dirtctiott. as the rotation of the bit (this i8 caUed down milling), and the c"tting acti.. , is just the opposite. Feedi~ng i'lt thia directiOlt, tile cuiter is clitting dozultWal'd i1UOtne wood along the <:oposededge, a1m lite material
To reduce the amount of force and eontrol the cut-on the router table, only a light seonng' pass should be made in this "down
beh'il remoued.is always '"TYfXJrted by tile material behind it.
~
~~.....
MAteE 'Io~WIDE 8ACKWA~I)S S{:OR1NG PASS
r+:
spare time. And to top it off, he ran out of matenial. Since the lumber used in the sample kits is.donated by nves members. the call went out to members for more lumber. Finally, enough lumber has been collected fOJ" the kits, and Damon assures us they're keeping up w;f>h the orders. All future orders for the $15.00, 31-piece sample kits should be sent directly to Damon Vincent, School of the Ozarks, Point Lookout, MO 65726. He also wanted us to mention [hat anyone ordering' the kits should allow 6 to 8 weeks fo,' delivery. We'd like to thank the members: of the IWOS. and Damon Vincent in particular, for their efforts to produce the wood sample kits. Sample kits are almost lmpossible to lind anymore, and we appreciate their efforts to keep them a vailable, and .rford~ble. The IWeS also publishes a mont»ly magazine called 1I'0r.ldof Wood Ihatls full of lnformation
milling" direction. Set tho bibto.make a cut at full deptb, but adjust thel0idthofthecut to only Yill" or so, see drawing. 'I'hi~way there's very little material for the bit to grab, and the workpiece can easily be controlled to produce a clean edge. Then alter making th·. "down milling" scoring pass •.adjust the fence to cut the rabbet to full width in the normal direetion (against the rotatlon of the bit).
on "collecting, correctly
dentifying, and naming wood specimens, and the use of'wcod in creative c)'aft~nlan- .. ship". \Vorld of Wood is mailed free to all "II: members of the nvos. To join the International Wood Collectors Society, send $13.50 for a one-year membership to: Michael Hanley, nVes Secretary-Treasurer, W.63, N.653 Wash,ington.Ave., Gedarbw'g, Wisconsin 53012. I
fOUR QUARTERS
After almost every issue, we receive a small stack of letters asking about the II., UP MIlliNG !'\':, ~""'" and % designations used to indicate the SAMPLE LUMBER KITS thickness of hardwood lumber. 'OTAllOH ~ OFarr In Woodsmitk No. 114.we rail a segment in These designations are similar to those Talking Shop about wood sample kits being used on softwood (constructlonj.lumbsrto offered fot ~ale by t·he International \Vood indicate thickness. A 2x4 starts out a l'uU2" OOWN MIlliNG Coliectors Society (rIVeS). Since then, thick in its rough state. But after it's sur.\..'W we've r~eived several letters from read- faced and. dried, the actual thickness is 0' fliT l~H. ers who, after several months, still haven't received their lumber kits. The same goes for hardwood lumber I called ~[jk. Hanley, the current except the designations are different. DOlO't "'illing always produces a Seeretary/Treasurer' of the Iwes. to find Hardwood lumber is designated by thickS1tWotMr cut, a,ut th.is it WIlY a scant'll out why there was such a long delay. It ness given in "quarters' (,%11' increments), po•• in ttie opposite directUnt 1I"odllce~ turns out that most of the delay was caused So, 1(, (four-qullrter) stock is 1· thick, on 81(cll. a clea,,, eil.t. by the high level of ,,,,spollse from our (five'quarter) is J "'-. ete. So far, .go good. "But \\thell hard\vood article (rour to fi,'e times as lnan,' orders. as R. J. C)i1:~ they uS\lally receive ill an entire year). . Iumber is surfaced to remove the rol1gh Sal' Francisco, Cali/l)r!lw 1b,nlake matters \\'or.se onl)r one person sa\¥ marks, things tend to get vel1' can· - Damon Vincent - cutsl assembles, and fusing·as to what the final Lhickness ShOI~d Editor'. Note: We like to USC'this down package. the sample kits. And like every- be. Guidelines have been published by Ihe milling technique to produce .a smooth one associated \\tith the lWCS, Danlon N~tiollal Hardwood Lumber As_i.lion scoring cut when cutting rabbets on the volu,ntccl'S his time after \\'ork an(1 on the (NJoILA) for tbe surfaced thickness of edge of a workpiece. HO\\TcVcr, there is a \veekends. ha«lwood lumber. see Chart. In the ease of drawback when making this type of cut on .y. stock, it's s\lda~d to a final thiekness Accordihg to Damon, ~ho Oood of order" or to/I!!)". • rouler table. \Vas more than he could keel) liP \vith in his
""
...
,
IOlAnoJ\
J
22
WOODSMlTH
-----.-
•
•
111:
However; the thickness specifications listed by Ill. NHLA are guidelines mostly intended for the furniture industry. LocaJ lumber yard. or rewl outlets mayor may not follow Illese guidelines. Some retail outlets surface Y. stock to .",.. according to Ille guidelines. Others have settled on a standard or...,," because they've found that this setting is more likely to clean up the entire surface of the boards, and yields more saleable lumber. 1'0 add to the confusion, some retail outlets surface hardwood Itunber down to'll" becauso thllt's what everyone is used to on softwood lumber, ROUOH TMICKNISS
$/," 3/.." 1" 1'1."
1 '12"
2"
·OU"'~f."
SUlFACIO THICKNESS
'/."*
1/16"
OISJGHAnOH
3/.."*
9/iI."
"I. Sf.
13/16"
0/. II.
15/16" 13A"
1 V,."
°toUGH lUMllt lISS ~ 101$ lXl't:ISstD IN INCHU
•
In lVood3milll, all of the dimensions given in the plans 001) based on the NElLA standard ~hicknesses, We usuaUy give the "quarter" designation followed by the NHLA standard thickness - -y., ('0/". actual) - with the understanding that the thickness of the lumber you're working with may vary from the standard, ONE.MINUTE GLUING
I ha1-'C a qllt8{io,! relaied to ihe article "Miler with Open Spli"e· in Wood.mith No. 36. I" {hi.arliclt, you,said to glue the miler. lOf/elh.r by holding Ihe pieces. togetherlor one minute. I would like to kltOl. Ihe .ptcific gil,. yo" are u';>lg llul! aUo.... 11011 to do fh;'. I'm. J,tifo",ilior Joith a gll4e that would
a.
aUow ,,~ 10 compl.,,, tne handling and culting "ltJltlrame YOI.ill8trudedajler ,,>tly0". min.,I. ol.e!ti't{} lime. Cilllck
Seipp
Cra"d Rapids, M;"..esota The comment on clamping the frame with hand pressure for only one minute has raised more than a few eyebrows. But there's no magic to the glue ... we use plain old yellow (aliphatic resin) glue (either Franklin's Titebond or Elmer's Carpenters Glue). The trick is that you're not trying to make a permanent glue joint when you hold the mitered pieces together for on. minute. All you need to do is "glue-tack" the mit .... together so they're aligned when they're placed in the jig to cut the groove for the spline. One erthe advamages of using aliphatic WOODSMITli
be in Ille wrong position in our art. Actually, there wasn't • mistake. We showed the fence behind the blade beeause we feel this is the best position. As we were preparing the article on cutting roves, we tested the set up with the fenee in fronl of the blade, beeause as many letters suggested, this is the way it's shown in most books. But when it carne time to cut the cove with the fence in this position, I had problems t.rying to feed the workpiece into the saw blade, while at the same time keeping it tight against the renee. This requires applying pressure in two dilTerent directions: pushing the workpiece forward, and pulling it back to hold it tight against the fence, No matter how many times I tried this method, it always rell very awkward to me. The method I've used ror years is ,,;th the fence positioned bthind tbe saw blade. Although, in theory, it might seem like the blade w ould have enough force to pull the CUTTING COVIS ON A TABLESAW workpiece away from the fence, in praeI'vojlut ruti~ Woodsmith No. 36 and tiee, it doesn't. would like to co»"nttlt Ott yo"r iechniqUA In fact, it'. nol any different than making an ordinary rip cUI- except since Ille lor c.dii'19 COIIU (m a lobl~ t fee! there', (I serioltS ,n'stake. in tne art, deptb of cut is only about V,,· or so, even wltich ,ho ... tI'./once al.gled on the back less hand pressure i8 needed to push the >ide01lite blade, In elHJry other boo" rue piece through the blade. And this, I feel, is the advantage to seen, lite le"ce is 8110"'''in front 01 the blade. having the fence behind the blade: the Tlte problem is tll«t ,ulten lite 'liOYkpiece workpiece can be fed by applying pressure i81mitioned i"j'rontollllej'81,cB, a. slto.tnt in a typical straight-forward direction i,.. your article, tJlc 1"OtOt;O)l 01 the saw just like a rip cut, blade (6l11U,to Pill! II", ,ool'kpiLce aICay This direction feel. very comfortable to fronttltele"c e. TiJi.",eo". llull IIandpres- me. But that's only how I feel. 'll-y it both sure ,., the ottlll thiJlU prevt1lting ike saw ways. If it feels better making the cut with bladefrom IIIro.cinglite 1tYlrkpi"",to",'Brd the. fence in front of the blade, then that's fh. opmulor. the .... y to do it. Other Ieuers we've received suggest By ...loading lhe I.nu in lront 01 the BOlO blade, lile roIalion 01the blade pllo8i1a using two fences, one on each side of the thellJOri
"""t
,*-NCr I" '.ONf
l>' kAOI
FEHa 8EHIND IlADf
23
Sources TV TRAYS/STAND You can order the hardware for (hit TV 'Ii-a)'S from the following·sources:
CONSTANTINWS,2000 Eastchester Road, Bronx, NY 10461; 800-223-8087 (Note: $7.50 minimum order. Catalog: $1.00). Row-Hinge (4 hinges needed per tray), 0/." diameter, Order No. R01'8~, $2.75 per package of 4. 1'l1£ WOOOWO.RKEIlS·STORE. 21801 Industrial Boulevard, Roprs, MN 55374; (612) 428--1101(Note: $',.50 minimum cash oroer. Oatalog $2.00). Wilsonart Decorative Lamina/e, Order No. dependent on color (see their special "Kitchen Oonsiderations' catalog), 30" x 96" (enough for four trays, two panels per tra~). $86.00. T~folding (for Yo.' kerl), :v." wide, iz.n. lengths, (four 12' -lengths needed for four trays), Order by color; No. D2732 (Tan), No. D27~ (Brown). NO. D2736 (Black), No. D2788 (White), $2.90 per piece. 'I.," Slot Cldler, Order No. M89.2, $18.9s. r plaleCa.sW:rs, Order No. 01143 (black) or No. C1I~ (brown), $16.40 per set of 4. Ptat Top Plugs, Oak. 'Yo', Order No. BI062, $1.50 per 50 (or see information below on plug cutters). BATHROOM CABINET You can order all of the hardware for the bathroom cabinet from one source: THE WOOOWORK.ERS· STORE, (address above). 8TM. Buu. Hillges (2 'Pair), lY,' long, 114' wide, Order No. DI224, $1.80 pair. ROI,,,,dBeec"lfnob8 (2), 1"dia., Order No. B2501, $.26 each. She/fStanda,'(f8 (4), surface mounted. 24' long, Order No. D9201, $.80 each. Shelf S"ppOTt~ (8), Order No. D9150, $.10 each .. A.foglletic Catch. Order No. D2101, SI.75 each. 3-WAY SHELF You can order all of the hardware for the shelves from one source: THE WOODWORKERS' STORE, (address above). Knock. Down Fittings (2), Order No. D3963, $.45 pei packof2. Shaker Pegs (4), Birch, 3%' long overall x %" dia., Order No. BI501, $.28 each. M"g RMk Pegs(6), Birch, W.·long overall ,,0/1' dia .• Order No. B1520, $.28 each. PI.at Top Pl1lgs (15), Maple, 11,', Order No. BI061 $1.10 Per 50 (or see information below on plug cutters). PLUG
currees
The TV Trays and the 3-Way Shelves require wooden plugs. These can be purchased, but we found it ""sy to use plug cutters to make our own plugs from the same wood used on the projects.
24
There are two styles or plug cutters available that fit into any drill or drill
contact Col. (ReL) ,Valter 1'. Betley, 2687 Wellesley Drive, Columbus, OJ:! 4822l
press. The traditional style- produces a
)IIOLANO \\tOOI)\\o'ORK£RS ASSOCIATION.
slightly beveled plug that needs to be resawn or broken free after they're drilled. (I
This organization has entered its second .}Ieat with mont,hly meetings and a quart'erly newsletter. Get more information by contacting Alan T. David, president, Mid· land Woodworkers Association, P.O. Box 1221, .Midland, M1 48640.
sometimes pop them out, with a serewdriver). They are available from a varie~y of sources. One source is Constantine's (address above), Order Nos. %' (95X120'1), 14- (95X1207 A), ¥ON (95XI207B), $6.95 each. A newer style automaticaUy ejects the plug from stock 0/." or less. A set of 3 (%", 14' and %") is available from Constantine's, Order No. 48W31, $19.95. CARBIDE-TIPPED ROUTER BITS The best place to start looking for the carbide-tipped router bits discussed on pages)9-21'is your local tool dealer Tfyou can't find them locally, }IOU may want to
contact oneof the nlajor mail'erderseurces that carry carbide-tipped bits: GARRETT WADE. 161 Avenue of the Americas, New YOI'k, NY 10013; 800-221-2942 (Catalog: $8.00). MASON &. SULLIVAN CO., '5fl6 Higgins Crowel Road, West Yarmouth, MA 02673; (617) 778-1056 (Catalog: $2.00). MLCS. P.O. Box 53, Rydal, PA 19046; 800·032·2445 Ext. 56. TREND-LINES. INC.. 375A Beacham Street, P.O. Box 6447A, Chelsea, MA 02150; 800·343-3248. W.S. JENKS &. SON, 738 Seventh Street, N.E., Wa~hil1gton, DC 20001;
800-638-6405. 41 Atlantie Avenue, P.O. Box 4000, Woburn, MA 01888; 800-225,Hli3 (Catalog: $8.00). WOODCRAFTSI1PPLY.
THE WOODWORKERS'
S1'ORE. (address
above). MEXlCO. 5604 Alameda N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87113; 800,645-9292 (Catalog: $2.00). ZAC PRODUers. INC.. 588 West 34th Street. New York, NY 10001; 800·522-6622. WOODWORKER'S SUPPLY OF' NEW
DIAMOND HONES The EIre-Lap Diamond Rones mentioned In the router bit-article (p, 21) axe available from Garrett Wade (address above). Fine grit, Order No. 15\",08.01, $5.95. M'edium grit, Order No. 15W08.02, $7_95. Coarse grit, Order No. 15W08.03, $9.95. WOODWORKING
CLUBS
Here are the latest additions to ow' list of woodwor.king clubs. WOOOWORKERS or CENTIIAL 01110.This club has been organized to serve central Ohio. [t meets about every six weeks and
has 60 members. For more Infermatien
Kru'lSAS CIT}' \VOOI)\VORKERS
CUILD.
David McLamb stopped by our offices to let us know that Kansas City woodworkers were get~ing together a new guild. If you are interested you can contaet David }I[(>Lamb, President, P.O. Box 11284, Kansas Oity, MO 64U9. CINCINl'tATI WOOOWORIill
woodworkers have been in existence for a little ov.•r a year and average
6:5 member.
at each meeting, Fol' more information
contact Rick Gorman, 7320 Miami Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45243, SIIASTA· WOOO\"QRKE,RS
ASSOCLATJON.
This group offers meetings, field h-ips, group purchasing, a newsletter, and an annualjuried exhibit. Find out more about them by contacting Yosh Sugiyama, Shasta Woodworkers Association, P.O. Box 205, Shasta, CA 96087. Tafl WOOD "OX WOOOWORKEltS GUII,O. INC. Harry McVeety reports that this group on the Gulf Coast is beginning its third year with over 100 members. For more information contact Harry MeVeet)·, President, The Wood Box Woodworkers Guild, Inc., 4?56 Three Notch Road, Mobile, AL 36619. B1·ooktyn. NY. Walter Connolly has been in contact with US a number of times about starting o. finding a dub in the New York City area. If you are interested, contact him at. 1500 73rd Street, Brooklyn, NY 11228. CLUB ORGANIZATIONAL HELP
In Wood.mil" 'No. 33 we asked for infol'-
rnation on how to start 8. woodworking club. The Central Pennsylvania weedworkers said they found an "Orgauizational Kit" provided fI-ee of charge from Shopsmith, Inc. to be helpful and saved a lot of work. We too~ a look at this "no cost, no obligation" offer and found it to be full of USeful suggestions for starting a ·club and improving clubs. Included is infor-
mation on how to get. started, enlist; members, structure, publicity, newsletters and
much- more. For a copy of the kit, write or call, Vince Pax, Manager of Woodworking Club Development, Shopsmith, Inc., 6640 Poe Avenue, Dayton, OH 45414-2.691; 800-543-9396. WOODSMITH
Index of Contents No. 1..,36
q
Thill index covers aU of fh" articles (ineluding projects and techniques) contained in the first 36 issues of Wood.mWt, The numbers,following eae~ listing refer to the issue and pages where you can find infermation Onthe listed subject, For example, 20:4·7 refers to information in 1V1X"~mit" issue No. 20 on pagVs 4 t~rough 7, Adhesive Hide (Scotch) 19:23 Hpt melt 84:24 \Vate.proof3:7, 11; '}6:10; 27:8 Angle Cutting odd 20:23 Drilling 4:10, 35:22 Angled box joint 35:15 Antique wall mirror 26:18-1~.24 Bachelor's chest 34:4-9
Band saw Blade 10:3
Guttinl!. duplicates 23:3 bookcase 29":1(t..21,24 Bead cutting jis 16:3 Bedroom ["",iture 84:4·21 Bell·side stand 18:4·7; 84:16 Belt buc!
.Bench
Galxlen 3:8-9; 27:12·13 1re;;tle 23:24 BeveV.ip 16:8; 18,:3; 25:8·9 Binder, wooden looseleaf '1:,1 Bits, mortising 26:20-21,2'1 Blanket chest 16:12·15; 82:16-21,2-1; 86:23 .BUnd dov.Jail 12:7 Bookcase 7:6·7; 29:16·21.24 Bookrack 7:12 Boring jig, horizonta! 12:J9 .BO\\!
saw
s.s
Bo\\'l. turned Laminated 21:18-21 Stave construction 26:.211 Box Bread 4:6-8 Display~:ll End grain top 15:J3 Inlout 31;JO·ll Jewelry 9;5; 24:20·22 MU~ie 6:6·7; 2814-7,24 Recipe 10:l! ~outcd 13:12-13; 28:10.11 Shop storage 16:14-15 Slide-top (finger.jointed) 17:J4-15 Tissue 2:5; 19:24 Toy 29:4·9,24 Box jblnt 2:4·5; 17:12·13'; 35:12·20 Drawers 17:19 Jig 2:4 Rab))'eted ~7:19 Branding irons 10:3 Bread board 20:24 Bread box, roU·top 4:6·8 \VOODSMITli
Buckle, belt 10:6 Buffet table', gate-leg 20:14-1.7
BUllet catch 19:12,17 Bullet's tray table 14:10·.ll,)6: 16,3 Gabine,t Bal,ister'$ bookcase 29:J6·2J,24 Bed-side stand 18:4~7 Caddy, two-drawer 31:12-15 Caned·panel cabinet and hutch 22:)8-22 Qh~ir·'Side 24:~4·17 Golonial dry sink 18:12·15 Colonial wall hutch 18:16·19 Contempora r)' hutch 18:4·7 Curio 21:12-15; 26:12-17,24· European cabinet and hutch 22:18·22 Frame alld panel 8:8-11 Icebox 36:4-10 Modular Slorag~ system 2'l:12·15 Modular wall unit 33:8·17 Night stand 34:16·19 Raised-panel door 8:7 Shop storage 25:~·7 Spool 26:4-6 Tambour .1.. '00 J7:6'9 Tambour TV 25:14.19 Thmbour'I'.1I 17,10·11 Cabin~t scrape,' 14:12-13; 15:7 Camp stool 3:7 Candle 'Stand table 11:6·1 0im<1d.panel cabinet and hutch ·22:f&22 Canister, turn'ed 14:14.15.; 25:8·12; 27:3; 30;23 Car, toy race 5:12 Carbide-tip
ROQte., bit 21:8-9; 23:28 Table saw blades 27:16-2~,24; 28:19,28 Card holder 35:18-20,2'1 Carpenter's triangle 1:6; 15:6 carpeL tape 85:23 Cart, microwave/serving 23:8-11 Carving 82:.·6.24 Pattern for card holder 35:20 Pattern fo)"quilt rack 32:24 Reference books 32:24
'fools 82:24 Chair Contemporary 2:6~ Deck 3:6·7 Oak Ip:8·Jl Patio i!7.:8-11 Seat 25:)!3 Chair-side cabinet 24<14·17 Chest
.Bache1m's :)4:4"9 Blanket 16:J2-15; 32:16·21,24; 36:28 Six-drawer (box joint drawers) 17:J6-1~ Sweater 9:8·9 Toy 29:4.9,24 Cheval mirror 30:4-8,24 Child·safe finish 26:23 Chisel 19:5; 20:8·11: 25:3 Chisel case 24:20.22 Christmas ornaments 6:10·J2
Circle cutter, a(ijustable 33:18·19 Circles, routing' 20:13; 21:10·11
OireuJar ~Iil'rQr (tame 1~: 10·11 Table top'19:3; 30:12'15 \Val! clock 3O:JO·ll Claml)iilg !'Ilock, dovetail 32'23 Boards 3J :3; 3.5:3 Corn ..... 94:3 _ Long pieces 94:24; 36:3 Stops 9:12 Table top 15:7, 1,(:3 Clamps Hand screws J 5:7;, 28:3 Hold-down 1;6 Pip" 15:3,7; 28:3; 32:15; 36:3 Wedge,~:3 Clock Desk 10:4; 33:J8.19,211 Mantel-24:8-l1: 30:23 Octagonal wall 12:8·9 Regulator 36:12·15,24 Round IVal! 30:10·}l Schoolhouse 21:4·7: 80:23 Clubs, lI'oodlVorl
Co}n sorter Columns 16:9 'li'ay 10:6 Colonial Dry sink 18:12·J5 Wall hutch 18;~6-19 Compass 7:3; 26:3 Compound miters 36:210 Cookbook/recipe shelf 6:4·5 Cooling rack 1:2 Corner Joint, plywood 22:3; 33:20·22 Template 29:3 Cove cutting 12:16; 20:23: 36:11 Cwio cabinet 21:12-15; 26:~·17,24 Cut ..off jig, radial arm saw 22:3 Cutting board 1:1; 32:10·12,24; 20:24 Dado.blade,. acjjustable 17:20;23:23; 3~:22 Danish oil finishes 30:12·15 Deck Chair 3:6·7 Squares 3:10 penti! 26:12.19,22; 29:3; 3~:3: 36:3 Denis 15:3
Desk
.l\djustable 3).:4·9
Lap~:6 Shaker-style 'VI'iting J2:4"'1 Diamond sharpening stones 24:7 Dining table ()ireular with leaf 30:16·21.24 Contemporary oak J5:4-5 Drop-leaf l1:8-JO Picnic 27,:4·7
Dining Table, ClilLl. '!restle 1:3-5; 23:12--15 Display CASe26:4-6,24: 26:12-17 Display case, W8U 9:11 Door Caned-panel 22: 18-22 G",-<$ 13:8-9: 22:18-22; 24:9; 25:19; 26:1<>-17;29:19-20: 36:14. 16-19 Hinges 13:8-9: 25:19 Munlios 13:8-9 Raised-paneI2:1().11; 18:4-19: 2-1:14-17 Techniques 13:8-9: 29:20-21 Dovetail Blind 12:7 Clamping block 32:23 Drawers 19:16-18 Fixtures 22:6-10: 23:3; 27:3: 32:22 Groove 11:6-7 Half-blind 22:4-9: 34:4-9 Hand-cut lap 22:4-5; 23:3 Hand-cut through 19:6-1 I Key 31:4-9 Leigh dovetail jig 32:22. 24 Macrune-CUI lap 22:6-9 Machine-en; through 32:22 Rabbeted 21:3 Routed 22:6-9: 32:22,24 Saws 19;5 Sliding 31:4-11 Through 12:7; 19:6-11 Tongue and groove 9:7: 20:20.22.24; 31:4-9,20-22 Dowels C~an\fe\ing 10:3 (lUlling 16:3 Drilling 33:3; 34:3 Grooved 11>:3 Making 19:3 Sanding 9: 12 Use 24:23; 29:16-21; 30:2 Drawer
Construction 17: 19; 18:20-22: 19: 18; 22:6-9: 31:2()'22; 32:18-21; 34:13-15 Plywood 22:14-15 Routed front 21:3 Drill bits 32:23 Drill guide, Porlaiigll 12:3.13 Drill press Adjustment wrench 32:3 Collet chuck 12;3: 26:23 Guide 1:6 Hole boring jig 22:3 Mortises 18:23 Mortising bits 26;20-21 Proulllol< table elevator 16:20 Router chuck 12:3 Table support 19:3 Drilling Angle 4:10, 35:22 Circles 33:18-19 Dowels 33:8: 34:3 Sltop$rnit/JMark V 29:3 Drop-lear Hinge 1I:10: 14:8 Joint 11:10; 14:7·8 Pembroke table 14:4-8 Table 11:8-10 Drum sander 35:22
Edge gluing 32:13-15; 35:23 ElllpIKl5:8; 14:3; 16:3; 19:3; 24:3 End boards 9:7; 20:24 23:13; End gmin Box 15:13 Gluing 24:23 Sealing 9:3 EngHoh wail lantern 36:16-19,2-1 Feather boards 23:23 File cabinet 7:8-9: 29:1()'15 File caddy, two drawer 31:12-15 Filler Nail hole 15:3 Sawdust glue 17:3 Pinger joint 17:14-15; 35:18-20 Finishes Non-toxic 19:23; 25:28: 28:24: 32:12.24; 36:28 0i130:12-15.24; 31:23,24; 32:7-9,24; 36:23 Outdoor 27:14-15 'fuming 25:23 ~lni.hing techniques 14:9; 28:3; 32:7-9 Forest Products Laboratory 36:24
Frame Cireular 12:1().11; 3O:1().U Gluing 26:11; 30:9 ~Iitered 33:18-19 Molded edge 24:8-17,2().22; 29:20·21; 80:4-8 Mortise and tenon 26:7-11 OClagonal 12:8-9; 21;4-7 Oval 6:!1 Rabbet rouling 26:22 Web construction 8:8-11; \4:JO-11; 22:18-22; 24:14-17; 26:14-17; 28:1~17; 29:,1-21;81:4-9; 34:4-9,16-19 Ii"ralnc and panel eonstruction 8:6 .. 8-11.; 16:12-15; 18:,1-19; 24:14-17,20·22: 20:,1·22;34:10-12: 36:4-10 Gall.,·y clock 3O:1()'1I Gate-leg buffet table 20:14-17 Glass Cutting 18:16: 17:20 Door 13:8-9; 22:18.22; 24:9,: 25:19: 26:1<>-17;29:19-20 MOIInting 11:3 S.'ll{ling 13:3 Glue, hot-melt 34:24 Gluing 7:3: 9:3; 10:3,9; 15:7; 17:4-5; 18:3; 19:23: 20:23: 21:9; 23:22; 24:23; 26:11: 27:23; 28:9,24; 31:3; 32;10, 13-15,23 Ed~ 32:13-15 End grain 24:23 Frame 26:11; 30:9 Inl"", 28:9 ~liters 21:9; 30:9 Stains 33:23 Tamboura 17;4-5 Goblela. turned 23:4-7; 24:23 Grinder tool rest 20:7; 24:3 Grinding wheels 2O:4~.12; 23:23 Half-blind dovetail 22:4-9; 34:4-9 HalC-lap 1:4,7,8; 2:11: 15:8-11; 16:6-7; 22:18-22; 27:.1-13,22; 29:23 Han mirror 21:16 Hand-cut dovetails 22:4-5; 23:3 Hand screws 15:7; 23:8 Headboard 34:10-12
Hexagon 12:1().U,14; 16:8-9; 18:3
llin~s
Butler's tray table 14:16; 16:3; 20:23 Drop-leaf 11:10; 14:8 Glass door 25:19 Knife 13:8-9 Mortises 32:22 \Vooden (issue #9) Horizontal boring jig 12:13 Hot-melt glue sheets 34:24 Butch Contemporary 13:4-7 Caned-panel cabinet 22:18-22 Icebox 36:4-10 Icebox hardware 36:24 Inlay 20:17: 26:6,22; 28:8-16_24 In/out box 31:1()'1I Jack plane 15:7; 23:16-17,20-21 Japane.e water stones 24:4~: 26:23: 31:23 Jewelry box 9:~: 24:20-22 Jig Angle drilling 4:10; 35:22 Bead cutting 16:3 Box joint 2:4: 17:12-13; 35:12-20 Cove cutting 12:16; 36:11 Cutting plastic laminate 33:3 Cut-off 1~:1&-16;28:3 Dentil molding 26:22; 29:3 Depth gauge 31:3 Dowel making 19:3 Drilling 22:3; 25:3; 33:3 Feathm' board. 33:23 Pinger joint 17:14-16; 35:18-20 Horizontal boring 12:13 Miter 12:15; 24:12-13; 36:22 Mortise cutting 16:18; 18:28: 28:9 Octagonal Irame cutting 21:17 Open-spline miter 36:22 Panel cutting 8:12; 18:23: 22:11; 25:18 Pin-routing 28:2()'22 Plastic laminate 23:3 Radial-arm router 20:3 Radial-arm saw cut·off 22:3 Raised panel 18:1().1l; 20:3 Resawing 6:9; 36:21 Ripping 26: 13 Router-cut mortise 26:3 Routin!!" round blanka 25:3 Tambour gluing 17:4-S: 25:18 Taper 1:6: 5:4; 11:3 Tenon 16:18; 24:18-19; 28:3 Joinery Box 2:4-S: 17:12-13.19; 35:12--20 Box, rabbeted 17:19 Corner. plywood 22:3: 33:20-22 Dovetail 19:6-11: 22:4-9: 23:3: 32:23 Dovetail key 31:4-11 Dovetail tongue and groove 9:7; 20:22; 31:20-22 Drop-leaf 11:10: 14:7-8 Finger 17:14-J5: 35:18-20 Frame and panel 8:6,8-11; 18:10-11; 24:14-17; 29:22 Half-blind dovetail 22;4-9; 34:4-9 Half-lap 27:22; 29;23 Half-lap. mitered 2:11 Hand-cut dovetail 19:4-Jl: 22:4-5 Haunched mortise and tenon 18:8-9 WOODSMITli
Jo~l')', coni. Locked miter 9:10 Machine-rut dovetail 22:6-9 ~litcr and spline 7:11; 21:8-9: 30:9,22:
86:22 Mitered half-lap 2:11 Miter
~loldings 26:22: 36:U Mortise Cutting jig 16:18: 18:23; 26:9 Drill press 18:23 Router-cut, jig 26:a Slot 8:4; 10:3: 13:10-11: 26:8·9 Mitered 16:16-18 Through 15:12 '!\vin 12:12 Mortise bits 26:2c}'21 Mortise and tenon Frame and panel 18:10-11; 26:7·11 Haunched 8:3-5; 13:1c}'11; 18:8-9 Molded edge 24:12-13 Mitered 16:16-18 Open 24:18-19 'l\vin tenon 12:12 Wedged 15:12 Muntins 18:8-9 Music box 6:6-7; 28:4.7,211 Nailing fixture 15:3 Nestled tables 28:12·16 Night stand 34:16-19 Note board 18:24 Oetagon 12:8-9: 16:10: 21:,1·7 Frame jig 21:17 Oil finishes 30:12-15: 32:7·9; 36:28 Open-spline miter 36:22 Ornaments, Christmas 6:1c}'12 Outdoor Furniture 3:8·12; 27:4·13 Finishes 27:14·15 Palm sanders 14:12; 36:7 Panel cutting 8:12; 18:23; 22:11; 25:13 Parallel 'spline 9:9 Patio chair 27:8-11 Pembroke table 14:4·8 Pencil and card holder 2:12 Picnic table 27:4-7 Picture frame router bit 9:3; 10:3 Picture and glass mounting 11:3 Pin routing 28:1C}.11,16-18,20-22 Pipe clamps 15:3,7; 28:3; 36:3 Plane A<\iustments 23:16.22; 25:23 Bench 15:7; 23: I6·22 ;Flattening 23:22: U:S; 29:23 Jack 15:7; 23:16·17 Sharpening 23:18-19 Planer, Wagne,.We-T· 10:10; 15:7 Planing, table top 23:21 Planter Cedar pillars 3:4 Hanging 3:12
Redwood tub 3:3 Tapered·sides 16:Ic}'U Plunge routers 28:23 Plywood Buying tips 30:23 Corner jOin! 9:10; 22:3 Cutting 34:2/;1 Drawer construction 22: 14.15 Splintering 22:11 Popcorn bowl, turned U:24 Portaligrl
Drill guide 12:3,13 Sbaper bit 12: IC}.11 PlT#lnlIU drill press table elevator 16:20
Quarter·round stops 36:20 Quilt rack 32:4.0 Rabbet and groove joint (also called rabbeUdado) 6:8: 10:9; 18:20·21 Rabbeted Dovetails 21:8 Drawer mnt 18:2C}.21:22:6-9 Frame, routed 26:22; 30:9
nadial arm saw Cut·off jig 22:3 Router Jig 20:3 Stand 32:3 Table ilkoert 20:3 Teehnique. 16:16; 16:16-18; 18:11,23; 31:3 Raised-panel 2:10; 8:7: 18:10·11,23: 20:3; 23:23 Rasp 26:28 Recipe box 10:8 Regulator clock 36: 12·15 Rcsawing 6:9; 28:4·7; 85:31 Riplbevel 16:8 Ripping jig 25:13 Roll-tep bread box 4:6-8 Rosan inserts 22: II; 24:3: 27:24; 28:24: 30:3 Routed Box sides 13:12-13: 28:1c}'11 Dovew18 22:6-9; 32:22 Snack trny 28:16-18 Router Auxiliary base 35:3 Bit. gluing dovetail 31:24 Bit, mOI~i8ing 26:20·21 Bit, picture (ram. 9:3; 10:3; 36:24 Bit, raised panel 23:23 Buyer's guide 31:16-19 Ca.se4:3 Chuck with drill press 12:3 Debris 24:23; 34:3 Direction 36:20-21 Do,'etail fixt.ures 22:6-9; 23:3; 32:22,24 Guide, multi-purpose 17:20 Jig, centered grooves 30:22 Jig, dentil molding 29:3 Jig, lap dovetail 22:6·9 Jig, mortlse euttinl126:S Jig, radlnl arm Saw 20:3 Jig, round blanks 25:S Pin 28:20·22 Plunge 28:23 Teehniques 20:13; 21:8-11: 25:13; 26:22: 28:10.11,16-18,20-22; 30:4-11; 36:21 'Irammel attachment 21:10: 30:9 Router table Construction 20:18-19; 22:16-17; 31:3 Inserts 30:3 Pin-routing attachment 28:2C}.22 Sabre 8IIw setup 30:3 Stand 22:16-17 Table 8IIWcx!,enslon 24:8 Vacuum attachment 86:3 Rubber cement 35:22 Rule joint U:10; 14:7-8 Rule, Sian'dt 84:28 Safety 15:3; 31:23; 34:3,23: 36:23 We-T·Planer, \Vag"'" 10:10; 15:7
Sander Bell 15:7: 33:3; 35:22
Spline, eo,,/. Drum 35:22 Use 23:22: 32:14-15 Palm 33:7; 34:3,22 Spool di$play case 26:4-6 Rockwtll SfMd, 810c 1,1:12: 33:7 Spoon display ease 9:11 Sander stand, belt 10:10 Spray Mount 36:2"2-28 Sanding Starrett rules 3.1:28 Circles 11:12 Stave eonstruction 26:8-9,24; 27:3; ;10:23 Disk 13:3; 15:3: 31:3 Stereo cabinet, tambour 17:6-9 Dowels 9:12 Sticker stains 34:2'2 Drum 13:3; 15:3; 26::1: 32:3 Stones Glass 13:3 Diamond 24:7 Table top 15:7 Japanese water 24:~; 26:23; 31:23 Sandpaper 33:~; 34:3 Sharpening 20:4-7,12-13; 21:28 Saw. dovetail 19:5 Stool Saw blade Camp 3:7 Child's 35:12-13 Band 10".3 Shop .1:11 Dado blade 34:22 Table, carbide-tipped 27:16-21.24: Stopped molding <:UUl 36:20-21 28:19,23 StOPped rabbets 36:21 Cleaning 17:3: 21:23 Storage Sehoolhou.se clock 21:4-7: 30:28 ~Iodular system 22:12-15 Seonee, candle 6:5 Modular "'811 unit 33:8-17 Scrap wood projects 3:12; 10:4-8: 14:1·1-15 Shop 15:14-15 Scraper, cabinet 14:12·13; 16:7 Table saw 13:1·1-15 Screws Sweater chest 9:8-9 Brass 18:3 Table Sheet rock 18:3: 19:23 But1er'~ tray 14:10-11,16 Serving Cunelle stand 11:6-7 Cart 28:8-11 Coffee 1:7; 19:14-17: 26:20-22 '!tay 19:19 Contempo''ary oak 16:4-. Shaker-style Dining 11:8; 15:4; 20:\4; 28:12; 30:16 Peg rack 2:8 Drop-leaf 11:8-10; 14:4-8 Step stand 19:20·22 Gate·leg buffet 20:14.. 17 Thble U:4-9 Kitchell 15:4·{) Writing desk 12:4-7 Lellf 30:18-19 Shaper Nestled 28:12-1. Bit 12:3,10-)1 Picnic 27:4-7 Guides 19:23 Pembroke 14:4-8 Sharpening Shaker-style side 11:4-5 Aids 20:7; 81:3; 33:3 Trestle 1:3-5; 23: 12-15 Carbide-tipped table .3W blades 28: 19 TV tray 16:4-7 ChiJsels 20:8-11: 26:23 Table saw Bevels 23:3 Diamond stones 24:7 Japanese water stones 2-1:>1-6;26:28: Blades, carbide-lipped 27:16-21,24: 31:23 28:19,23 Compound miters 36:21 Plane irons 28:18-19 Scraper blade 14:13 Cove cutting jig 36:11 Cutting plastic laminate 33:3 Stone. 20:4-7.12-13; 21:2:1 Dado blade, adiustable 17:20 Table saw blade. 28:19 Shelf Insert 35:23 Aligning brackets 11:3 Miter gauge 25:3 Wall 20-.20-21 Setup 20-.3 Shooting board 13:3 Tambour Shop slorage Roll-top bread box 4:6-8 Box 15:14-15 Stereo cabinet 17:6-9 Cabi~t 26:4-7 Teehniques 4:6-8: 17:4-11; 20:3: 26:14-19 Cart 13:14-15 TV cabinet 25:14-19 Side table 11:4-5 Wall cabine, 17:10-11 Sliding dovetail tongue and groove Taper 20:20-21; 31:4-11 B."el 16:10-11 Snaek tray, routed 28:16-18 Cut.ting 32:10-12 Spalted wood 28:23 Jig 1:6; 5:4; 11:3 Spice box 6:3 Thper<)d legs 11:11; 14:4-8: 28:12-13 Spindle turning' 26:3 Tenon Spline Cutting 18:10-11; 26:10-11 Cutting 10:3: 15:4-5; 21:8-9; 30:9 Haunehed 18:8-9 Parallel 9:9 Jig 24:18-19 Routed groove 21:8-9 Mitered shoulder 16:16-17
Sander,
COlli.
Tenon, cont. Repairing round 28:3 Staggered·shoulder 13:10-11 Stub 29:22; 31:4-9; 33:20 Thin 12:12 Thre-aded inserts 22:11; 24:3;27:24; 28:21; 30:3 Tie rack 1:2 TiSSlle box 2:5; 19:24 '!bngue and groove joint 9:7: 29:22 31:12-15.20-22; 33:20-22 Tho1rest, grinder 20:7: 24;3 Tool storage 4:9.12 '!by Biplane 35:8-11,24 Chest 29:4-9,24 Race car 5:12 'Ihin 5:10-11 'lhItk 35:4-7,24
fuy Routed snack 28:16-18 Serving 19:19 Snack 28:16-18 '!testle Bench 23:24 Leg assembly (desk) 31:4-9 Table 1:8-5; 28: 12-15 'Ih~eI21:24; 22:28 'lUng oil finish 30:12-15: 32:7-9,24; 36:28 'l\u-ning Bowl 21:18-21; 25:24 Canister 14:14-16; 26:8·12; 27:3; 30:28 Fruit bowl 21:18-21 Goblets 23:4-7; 24:23 Gouges 21:22; 24:28 Legs 12:S Popcorn bowl 26:24 Seraper 21:22; 22:2:1 Spindle 26:3 '!boIs 21:18-22; 22:28; 24:23 TV tray table. 16:4-7: 17:20 Vanity mirror 2>1:24 Veneer 14:10-11; 33:18-19 Veneer tape 17:8; 22:11-14; Vtse Dogs 28:3 Holding Jig 29:3 Wag>..,. Safe-T-Planer 10:10: 15:7 WalIlanlem. English 36:16-19,24 '''all mirror 21:16; 26:1~19,24; 34:20-21 Wall shelf 20:20-21 Wall unit 33:8-17,24 \vaste basket 7:5 Water stones, Japanese 24:~; 26:23; 31:23 Web frame construction 8:8-11: 22:18: 29:4-21: 31:4-9 Wedge clamps ;;:3 Wood Dimensions 22:28 Information 36:24 Movement 9:7; 31:23 Outdoor use 3:11; 27:14-15 Sample kits 34:23 Spalted 28:23 Storage 19:23: 30:3 Wooden hinges 9:5-11 Woodworking clubs (issues 27-33,35,86: page 24) WOOOSMIT1'1
