Project Report

DILLI HAAT: CRAFTS, CULTURE AND CUISINE  Nataliya Saxena  054543633 

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Programme Code BTS Course Code PTS-06 Enrolment No. 0 5 4 Study Centre

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Regional Centre Bangalore DILLI HAAT: CRAFTS, CULTURE AND CUISINE

Project Report Submitted to the Indira Indira Gandhi National Open University in par tial fulfillment of the requirements for the award of the Bachelors Degree in Tourism Studies . I hereby declare that this is my original work and has not been submitted elsewhere.

Signature of the Candidate_________ Candidate________________________ __________________  ___  Name of the Candidate Nataliya Saxena Institutional Address 137 A NOFRA II Airport Road, Dabolim Goa 403 801 Year  2008

 __________________________  ___________________ _______ _________________ ___________________________________ __________________ CERTIFICATE

Certified that the Project Report entitled Dilli Haat: Crafts, Culture and Cuisine submitted by Nataliya Saxena is her own work and has been done under my supervision.

Signature of the Supervisor  Name Dr. Usha Bhende  Address D-7-D Governmen Quarters Opposite Fire Brigade, St. Inez, Panjim, Goa 403001 Study Centre Dhempe College of Arts and Science Regional Centre Bangalore Date: 31st December 2008

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INDEX CHAPTER NO.

CHAPTER

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Introduction Delhi: A Historical Perspective The Haftaa Bazaars of  Delhi Shopping at Delhi Dilli Haat Conclusion

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CHAPTER ONE INTRODUCTION The Dilli Haat provides the ambience of a traditional rural haat or village 1.1 market, but one suited for more contemporary needs. Here one sees a synthesis of  crafts, food and cultural activity. This Food and Crafts Bazaar is a treasure house of Indian culture, h andicrafts 1.2 and ethnic cuisine. A unique bazaar in the heart of the city, it displays the richness of  Indian culture on a permanent basis. It is an ambitious project set up jointly by Delhi Tourism and NDMC, DC 1.3 (Handicrafts) and DC (Handlooms), Ministry of Textiles, Govt. Of India and Ministry of Tourism, Govt. of India. It aims at providing encouragement to the needy artists from all over the country in order to sustain and preserve the rich heritage of India. While allowing free interaction between buyers and sellers, the organisers 1.4 favour a check on prices to keep them moderate. 1.5

AIM:

To study Dilli Haat as a Tourism Product and it¶s marketing perspective. 1.6

Methodology 1.6.1 1.6.2 1.6.3 1.6.4 1.6.4

Visits to Dilli Haat Interviews and interaction with the sellers Interviews with the personnel at the Dilli Haat administration Pamphlets and literature provided by the Dilli Haat admi nistration Internet Sources

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CHAPTER TWO DELHI: A HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE 2.1 Human habitation was probably present in and around Delhi during the second millennium BC and before, as evidenced by archaeological relics. The city is believed to be the site of Indraprastha, legendary capital of the Pandavas in the Indian epic Mahabharata. Settlements grew from the time of the Mauryan Empire (c. 300 BC). Remains of seven major cities have been discovered in Delhi. The Tomara dynasty founded the city of Lal Kot in 736 AD. The Chauhan Rajputs of Ajmer  conquered Lal Kot in 1180 AD and renamed it Qila Rai Pithora. The Chauhan king Prithviraj III was defeated in 1192 by the Afghan Muhammad Ghori. In 1206, Qutbud-din Aybak, the first ruler of the Slave Dynasty established the Delhi Sultanate. Qutb-ud-din started the construction the Qutub Minar and Quwwat-al-Islam (might of  Islam), the earliest extant mosque in India. After the fall of the Slave dynasty, a succession of Turkic and Central Asian dynasties, the Khilji dynasty, the Tughluq dynasty, the Sayyid dynasty and the Lodhi dynasty held power in the late medieval period, and built a sequence of forts and townships that are part of the seven cities of Delhi. In 1398, Timur Lenk invaded India on the pretext that the Muslim sultans of  Delhi were too much tolerant to their Hindu subjects. Timur entered Delhi and the city was sacked, destroyed, and left in ruins. Delhi was a major center of Sufism during the Sultanate period. In 1526, Zahiruddin Babur defeated the last Lodhi sultan in the First Battle of Panipat and founded the Mughal Empire that ruled from Delhi,  Agra and Lahore. 2.2 Mughal Empire ruled northern India for more than three centuries, with a five year hiatus during Sher Shah Suri's reign in the mid- 16th century. Mughal emperor    Akbar shifted the capital from Agra to Delhi. Shah Jahan built the seventh city of  Delhi that bears his name (Shahjahanabad), and is more commonly known as the Old City or Old Delhi. The old city served as the capital of the Mughal Empi re from 1638. Nader Shah defeated the Mughal army at the huge Battle of Karnal in February, 1739. After this victory, Nader captured and sacked Delhi, carrying away many treasures, including the Peacock Throne. In 1761, Delhi was raided by Ahmed Shah Abdali after the Third battle of Panipat. At the Battle of Delhi on 11 September  1803, General Lake's British forces defeated the Marathas. 2.3 Delhi came under direct British control after the Indian Rebellion of  1857 . Shortly after the Rebellion, Calcutta was declared the capital of British India and Delhi was made a district province of the Punjab. In 1911, Delhi was declared the capital of British India and a new political and administrative capital were designed by a team of British architects led by Edwin Lutyens to house the government buildings. New Delhi, also known as Lutyens' Delhi, was officially declared as the seat of the Government of India and the capital of the republic after independence on 15 August 1947. During the partition of India thousands of Hindu and Sikh refugees from West Punjab and Sindh fled to Delhi while many Muslim residents of the city 5

migrated to Pakistan. In 1984, three thousand Sikhs were killed in the 1984 anti -Sikh riots. Migration to Delhi from the rest of India continues, contributing more to the ri se of Delhi's population than the birth rate, which is declining. 2.4 The Constitution (Sixty-ninth Amendment) Act, 1991 declared the Union Territory of Delhi to be formally known as National Capital Territory of Delhi. The Act gave Delhi its own legislative assembly, though with limited powers. 2.5 Delhi's culture has been influenced by its lengthy history and historic association as the capital of India. This is exemplified by the many monuments of  significance found in the city; the Archaeological Survey of India recognises 175 monuments in Delhi as national heritage sites. The Old City is the site where the Mughals and the Turkic rulers constructed several architectural marvels like the Jama Masjid (India's largest mosque) and Red Fort. Three World Heritage Sites² the Red Fort, Qutab Minar and Humayun's Tomb²are located in Delhi. Other  monuments include the India Gate, the Jantar Mantar (an 18th century astronomical observatory) and the Purana Qila (a 16th century fortress). The Laxminarayan Temple, Akshardham and the Bahá'í Lotus Temple are examples of modern architecture. Raj Ghat and associated memorials houses memorials of Mahatma Gandhi and other notable personalities. New Delhi houses several government buildings and official residences reminiscent of the British colonial architecture. Important structures include the Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Secretariat, Rajpath, the Parliament of India and Vijay Chowk. Saf darjung's Tomb is an example of the Mughal gardens style 2.6 Delhi's association and geographic proximity to the capital, New Delhi, has amplified the importance of national events and holidays. National events such as Republic Day, Independence Day and Gandhi Jayanti  (Gandhi's birthday) are celebrated with great enthusiasm in Delhi. On India's Independence Day ( 15 August) the Prime Minister of India addresses the nation from the Red Fort. Most Delhiites celebrate the day by flying kites, which are considered a symbol of freedom. The Republic Day Parade is a large cultural and military parade showcasing India's cultural diversity and military might. 2.7 Religious festivals include Diwali (the festival of lights), Mahavir Jayanti, Guru Nanak's Birthday, Durga Puja, Holi, Lohri, Maha Shivaratri, Eid and Buddha Jayanti.[99] The Qutub Festival is a cultural event during which performances of  musicians and dancers from all over India are showcased at night, with the Qutub Minar as the chosen backdrop of the event. [100] Other events such as Kite Flying Festival, International Mango Festival and Vasant Panchami (the Spring Festival) are held every year in Delhi. The Auto Expo, Asia's largest auto show, is held in Delhi biennially. The World Book Fair, held annually at the Pragati Maidan, is the second largest exhibition of books in the world with as many as 23 nations participating in the event. Delhi is often regarded as the "Book Capital" of India because of high readership. 2.8 The Auto Expo, Asia's largest auto show, is held annually at Pragati Maidan and showcases the technological prowess of the Indian automobile industry

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2.9 Punjabi and Mughlai delicacies like kababs and biryanis are popular in several parts of Delhi. Due to Delhi's large cosmopolitan population, cuisines from every part of India, including Rajasthani, Maharashtrian, Bengali, Hyderabadi cuisines, and South Indian food items like idli, sambar and dosa are widely available. Local delicacies include C haat  and Dahi-Papri . There are several food outlets in Delhi serving international cuisine including Italian and Chinese. 2.10 Historically, Delhi has always remained an important trading centre in northern India. Old Delhi still contains legacies of its rich Mughal past that can be found among the old city's tangle of snaking lanes and teeming bazaars. The dingy markets of the Old City has an eclectic product range from oil -swamped mango, lime and eggplant pickles, candy-colored herbal potions to silver jewelry, bridal attire, uncut material and linen, spices, sweets. Some of old regal havelis (palatial residences) are still there in the Old City. Chandni Chowk, a three century old shopping area, is one of the most popular shopping areas in Delhi for jewellery and Zari  saris. Notable among Delhi's arts and crafts are the Zardozi  (an embroidery done with gold thread) and Meenakari (the art of enameling). Dilli Haat, Hauz Khas, Pragati Maidan offer a variety of Indian handicrafts and handlooms. However, the city is said to have lost its own identity and socio-cultural legacies as it went to absorb multitude of humanity from across the country and has morphed into an amorphous pool of cultural styles. 2.11 Situated on the bank of river Yamuna, New Delhi, the capital of India, have witnessed civilizations that flourished for more than three thousand years. Indraprastha, according to legends, the city founded by the Pandavas in the times of  the epic Mahabharata (circa 1500 B.C.), was locate d near the Old Fort that stands on a large mound overlooking the river. 2.12 Since early days many dynasties and rulers f rom different cultural background, ruled on its regal soil. The past heritage still survives in the many monuments left behind by the then rulers. Every monument speak s of the glory of its time and gives an imprint of the character of the ruler. Today, the city is a curious blend of the modern and traditional, skyscrapers, beautiful gardens and wide tree lined avenues perpetuate the Mughal passion of landscaping and architectural excellence. 2.13 Delhi, has seen the rise and fall of many empires which have left behind a plethora of monuments that the grandeur and glory of bygone ages. A city which traces its history to Mahabharata, the great epic tale of wars fought between estranged cousins, the Kauravas and the Pandavas for the city of  Indraprastha. 2.14 Mughals ruled Delhi in succession starting from Qutab -ub-din to Khiljis, Tughlaqs. The city of Delhi passed on to the hands of the British in 1803 AD. It was only in 1911, when the capital of British Empire was shif ted from Calcutta to Delhi, that Delhi got its present prestige. After independence also, a kind of  autonomy was conferred on the capital but it largely remained a chief  commissioner¶s regime. In 1956 Delhi was converted into a Union territory and gradually the chief commissioner was replaced by a Lt. Governor. In 1991, the national capital territory Act was passed by the parliament and a system of diarchy 7

was introduced under which, the elected Government was given wide powers; except law and order which remained with the central Government. The a ctual enforcement of the legislation came in 1993. 2.15 New Delhi, the capital of India, sprawled over the west bank of the river  Yamuna is one of the fastest growing cities in India. It is surrounded on three sides by Haryana and to the east, across the river Yamuna by Uttar Pradesh. Historically, the city has long since been the foremost in political importance with successive dynasties choosing it as their seat of power, between the 13th and the 17th centuries. Remnants of the glorious past survive as important monuments in different parts of the city. 2.16 The myriad faces of the city are simply fascinating. In some places it remains a garden city, tree lined and with beautiful parks, but in some places it can also be crowded with heavy traff ic. Turbaned Sikhs, colourfully dressed Rajasthani and Gujarati women working in offices, Muslim shopkeepers along Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi, Tibetans and Ladakhis in the street stalls along Janpath and Kashmiris in the handicraft emporia around Connaught Place, a ll add to the cosmopolitan feel of  the city. Soaring skyscrapers, posh residential colonies and bustling commercial complexes can be seen along with the ancient historical monuments. Its bout iques and shopping arcades offer access to a wealth of traditiona l and contemporary crafts, from all over the country. Old Delhi which looks entirely different from New Delhi area, is about 6 Km north of the city centres.

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CHAPTER THREE THE HAFTA BAZAARS OF DELHI 3.1 The earliest known urban settlement in Delhi, aside from the mythological Indraprastha, called Inderpat by Sayed Ahmad Khan in his  Asaar-us-Sanaadeed  (1865) and by Bashir-ud-Din Ahmad in his Waqiyat-e-Daar-ul-Hukumat Dehli  (1920) (probably to go well with Maripat, Sonipat, Panipat and Baghpat), is believed to have been at or near the present day Mehrauli. 3.2 The large number of exiting structures and ruins, both religious and secular, testify to rigorous building activity in this area going back to almost a thousand years or more and continuing during the colonial period. The Quila Rai Pithora, The Shrine of Qutub-ud-Din Bakhtiyar Kaaki, (disciple and successor of Moin -ud-din Chishti and the Peer  of Baba Fareed Ganj-e-Shakar), whose presence in this area gave it the honorific Qutub Saheb, the Tomb of Altamash and of Balban, the Hauz -e-Shamsi, the Gandhak ki Baoli and the Rajon -ki-Baoli, Jamali-Kamali or the tomb and mosque of Jamal-ud-Din and Kamal-ud-Din, Adham Khan and Quli Khan¶s Tombs, the Rang Mahal, the adjacent mosque and the large number of colonial structures, including several tehsil buildings, a municipal dispensary, the so called Tamarind Court and the Qutub Colonnade are evidence of a thriving Urban settlement. 3.3 This then was the Original Purani Dehli. Others like Siri Fort, Tughlaqabad, the Capital of Qaikbad at Kilokhri, Mohammad bin tughlaq¶s Bijay Mandal, Firoze Tughlaq¶s capital - the Firozeshah Kotla, Mubarak Shah¶s Kotla Mubarak Pur, Sher  Shah Suri and Humayun¶s Purana Quila, the Shahj ahanabad and Lutyen¶s New Delhi were to come up as later Dehlis as the centuries rolled by. 3.4 Out side the then Mehrauli were open spaces, mostly rocky or uncultivable tracts and agricultural lands. Scattered among all this were numerous villages, many of them as old or probably older than the urban settlement of Mehrauli. The surviving textual references and stone tablets placed upon structures and ruins in these villages testify to their antiquity. For example a trader from Gujarat called Udhara had commissioned a baoli in Palam Gaon during the reign of Balban. The inscription from the baoli was reproduced along with a translation by Syed Ahmad Khan in his monumental work  Asar-us-Sanaadeed . Records of the life of Bakhtyar Kaaki talk of  his having lived at Kilokhri before moving to Mehrauli at the request of Altamash. Writings about Nizam-ud-Din mention the fact that his parents first took a house on rent at Hauz Raani, before shifting to Adhchini. Nizam -ud-Din¶s mother, held in high esteem and referred to as Mai Saheba, is buried at Adhchini, where an annual Urs is organised to commemorate her. The area now known as Nizam-ud-Din was at the time of the Sufi saint known as Ghyas Pura. A settlement where Nizam-ud-Din¶s successor Naseer-ud-Din Chiragh Dehli lived and died and where his shrine is located is now known by the name of the Sufi, as is Nizam -ud-din today. 9

3.5 Yusuf Sarai, Sheikh Sarai, Lado Sarai, Jiya Sarai, Katwaria Sarai, Ber Sarai, Neb Sarai, Mohammad Pur, Pilanji, Mahipal Pur, Rangpur Pahari, M asood Pur, Sulatngarhi, a colloquialism for Sultan -e-Ghari (so called because the mausoleum of  the elder son of Iltutmish - Nasir-ud-Din Mahmood, was erected by Altamash inside a cave (ghaar) like structure) Kishan Garh, Munirka (according to Bashir - ud-Din   Ahmad a colloquialism for Munir Khan ka Teela), Hauzrani, Khirki, Zamarrud Pur  (now known as Jamrood Pur) Yahya Nagar know changed to Aya Nagar, Ghitorni, Sayed-ul-Ajayab (now corrupted into Saidulajab) and Begum Pur etc were some of  the villages that lay scattered in what is now the posh South Delhi and its surroundings. 3.6 When contending armies fought for the control of Delhi, the hapless residents of these villages had to suffer loot, arson, rape and pillage. It is said that Mohammad bin Tughlaq realized how defenseless these people were and decided to erect a huge wall around his new capital city of Bijay Mandal (located at present between Begum Pur, Sarvodya enclave and Sarvapriya Vihar). It would be a wall that would enclose within its folds his fort and all the surrounding villages and their lands. He named it Jahan Panah - The refuge for the entire world. One part of this wall was demolished a few years ago to widen the Aurobindo Marg near the road that runs between Geetanjali Enclave and the DDA Golf Course near Saket. Another part of  this wall ran along the present day Jahan Panah Forest near the present day Pushp Vihar and Dakshin Puri. The Sat Pula on the Saket -Sheikh Sarai road on the Chragh Dilli Nala was a part of this wall, but now no trace of the wall remains near the Satpula. Like most of Mohammad Bin Tughlaq¶s plans this wall was never  completed, he died before this could be done, with Tughlaq¶s death the capital shifted to a new location and the Jahan Panah was forgotten and soon lay in ruins. 3.7 The villages enclosed within the walls and those outside the wall continued to exist for centuries producing all that they needed to survive or buying what they did not, from the weekly haats, held on fixed days of the week near each village. T hese weekly markets were run by small travelling salesmen who set up shop at a new location each day of the week, coming back to each location once a week. If on every Friday they were at Mohammadpur, on Saturday you could find them perhaps at Munirka, on Sunday at Masoodpur and on Monday at Rangpur Pahaari and so on. 3.8 Each travelling merchant catered to a fixed set of six or seven villages with in a specific part of what were then the environs of Delhi. The Capital continued to shift, kingdoms rose and fell. Battles were lost and won. Families of the Ashraaf (Nobles) prospered or perished with each changing regime but these markets of the Ajlaaf  (the Lower Orders) survived all this and continue to survive to this day. 3.9 Much has changed in the wares that the hafta bazaar merchants sell today; the customers have also changed and yet much remains in these markets that needs to be preserved. The villages have mostly disappeared, their lands taken away at a pittance earlier by µdevelopers¶, later by DDA and now the measly strips that survive are being lined -up to be rapidly expropriated through the so called public private partnerships. What remains of the village are haphazardly thrown up µurban¶ structures without any urban facilities and now even these st ructures are being taken over and given a makeover by the MNCs or by well heeled born again Hindustanis, and lovers of kitschy ethnic chic like the Bina Ramanis and others of this ilk. 10

3.10 And yet there is much to these bazaars that still serves a purpose. A much larger purpose perhaps than they served when they started. In those days the market had to go to the buyer, because the buyer could only walk or travel on a bullock cart. Today each of these markets caters to a much larger and a much more diverse population. Coming together once a week, as they have done for centuries, these markets sell all that one needs, well almost. 3.11 Hand Printed Bed Spreads, Export Surplus Towels, Tee Shirts, ³Nikes´ and ³Adibas´ and ³Wudland´ Shoes and Track Suits, Jeans , Trousers and Shirts. Plastic goods of daily use, cheap racks and stools, Ludhiana Woollens at whole sale rates, House Coats with Matching Chunnis for ladies, Cheap Lipsticks, Talcum Powders, Bindis, Sindoor and Bangles, Mirrors, Safety Razors, Mechanical and Battery Operated Toys that are cheaper than their Chinese counterparts and what have you. 3.12 Except perhaps for the Bindi, Sindoor, Mirrors and Bangles there is nothing in the above list that these markets sold 50 or 40 years ago. There is, however, a whole lot that is common between these bazaars and their precursors of a thousand years and more. Each one of these markets sells most or all the items from the list that follows: 3.13 Kitchen implements like Knives, Rolling Pins, Cooking Vessels, Tha lis, Lotas, Buckets, Tubs, Graters, Choppers, Grinding Stones, Pestles and Mortars, Spoons, Ladles and Kadhais, Pulses and Lentils, Ground Grains and Rice, Sattoo, Whole and Ground Spices, Whole Turmeric, Whole Chillies, Rock Salt, , Herbs like Pipli, Ajwa in and Guchchi, traditional medicinal ingredients like Gum Arabic, Heeng, Nausadar, Phitkari (alum) Harad, Baheda, Dried Amla, Sonth, and Tamarind and a host of  others, along with ready made good quality Pickles, Jaggery, Bura or Brown Sugar, (now sold in places like Khan Market in neat little plastic packs as Breakfast Sugar) and Shakkar. 3.14 Aside from all this these markets also stock fresh vegetables, Garlic, ginger, Potatoes and other food items that have a long shelf life like Badis, Papads, Namkeens, Puffed Rice, Roasted Grams and the like. 3.15 What does this list tell us? These are things that the villagers bought and those villagers who have yet to be modernised by this urban jungle still do. The herbs, the local medicines, the sonth and ajwain helped them survive before the arrival of the magic of allopathy. The onions, the garlic, the badi, the guchchi, the papad, the puffed rice the roasted gram, the Sattoo and such like would keep for a week or longer and sustain them. 3.16 The presence of all these is also evidence of a continuity of this tradition. Go around the city and you will notice that wherever you find a weekly market you will find an old Delhi village, hidden away and almost forgotten. Behind Mother Dairy there are the villages of Mandawali and Fazalpur with their weekly markets, between Sectors 9 and 13 of Rohini there is Razapur with its weekly market, Behind Sector  15 and 16 there is Samaipur Badli, opposite Saket there is Khirki and Hauzrani with their own weekly bazaar, Near Saint Thomas¶s Church opposite Safdarjang Enclave there is Mohammadpur and its Friday bazaar, Near Sector C Vasant Kunj, there are the old villages of Masud Pur, Mahipalpur and Rangpur Pahari. The list is long and 11

encompasses all of Delhi. I have yet to find a weekly market in Delhi that is not held in the vicinity of an old village. 3.17 These markets today attract not only the villagers, they also cater to a very large population of migrant workers, daily wagers and the likes of rickshaw pullers, construction labourers, the liveried but poorly paid guards of co -operative group housing societies that have come up on land that was cultivated till a couple of  decades ago. Those that benefit from these markets are not only these marginalised sections, there are many people like us, and their numbers run into tens of  thousands, who patronise these markets not only because you can derive a bargain here, but also because they are convenient, economical and by and large trustworthy. 3.18 These markets represent a history, a tradition and a cultural continuity. They meet the household needs of tens of thousands and provide work to scores of Tent House Wallas who supply them with Tables and Patromaxes, to rickshaw and thelewalas who ferry their wares and many others who in directly benefit from these markets. Despite all this an order has been passed that they should be made to pack up and leave. The city must look squeaky clean, come the commonwealth games. 3.19 The necessity of preserving these markets should be obvious to all those who have any love for the living traditions and practices of the people. For those who seek inspiration only from occidental practices, one would like to point out that all over the world cities with a history, (excluding the USA of course, because the poor  fellows only have a present) have preserved such traditional markets and turned them into major tourist attractions, while we, are bent upon destroying a living tradition. 3.20 The order to dispense with these Weekly Bazaars is part of a series of such orders. There is an order to stop roadside eateries and there is a recently implemented decision to remove rickshaws from Chandni Chowk. The ban on these markets is one more effort not only to µMake Delhi Clean¶ but also perhaps to make it more Mall Friendly.

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CHAPTER FOUR SHOPPING IN DELHI 4.1 Delhi is unique in that it has representative outlets for the handicrafts of each Indian state. This in it self presents a staggering a rray of goods, and at very affordable prices. In the last decade there has been a dramatic change in Delhi's markets. Upwardly mobile lifestyle has led to greater sophistication in display and upgrading of various markets in terms of availability of items. 4.2 Delhi has long been the most important trading centre in Northern India. Many of its localities, like Sheikh Sarai and Yusuf Sarai, derive their names from medieval market towns which serviced the bygone, shifted capital cities of Delhi. Today, all o f  these have become a part of the rapidly expanding metropolis. Instead of market towns, there are specific whole sale markets or"mandi's" scattered throughout the vast city, and their's is another story. 4.3 For visitors to Delhi, shopping is high on the list of "things to do". Tourists find a wide choice of items- such as carpets, silks, jewellery, leather and silver ware, handicrafts and handprinted cotton - that are synonymus with India. Each item is available in a range of prices, depending on the qua lity and the outlet. 4.4 Another interesting is that each market has its own, distinctive ambience and adds its own flavour to the experience of shopping. Haus Khas Village, Connaught Place and Chandni Chowk are worlds apart from one another, yet each of them reflects an aspect of this many - faceted city. In fact one of the fascinating ways of  understanding a city is by wandering through its market places for it is here that contemporary culture is most visible to the outsider. 4.5 The exploration of Delhi's markets could be begin at Chandni Chowk. Despite the pressures of traffic and population, its historic land marks servive to tell the story of the last three centuries. Many of the shops here are more than 100 years, old and the mesh of lanes and bylanes is full of superises. Leading off Chandni Chowk are Dariba, the silver market, Khari Baoli, the spice market and Kinari Bazar for  trimmings and tinsel. In some of these bazaars the item for sale are manufactured at site, which lands a special charm to the shopping experience well integrated into the culture of the old city, these bazaars offer the visitor a glimpse of life in Old Delhi. 4.6 There are some antique stores behind Jama Masjid, and more lining the entrance to the Red Fort, where the Meena Bazar once was. These offer items arranging from jewellery to painting and furniture, and cater almost entirely to tourists. Connaught Place, New Delhi's original shopping arcade was planned as part of the Imperial capital in 1911. On Baba Kharak Singh Marg, are the numerous government State Emporia. Which afford a glimpse of the handicrafts of each state. So does the recently- inaugurated new Central Cottage Industries Emporium on

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Janpath. Across the road from "Cottage" as it is popula rly known, are the inviting stalls along Janpath. 4.7 The Tibetans sell jewellery and ritual objects, while closer to Connaught Place are available embroideries from Gujarat and Rajasthan, readymade garments and bric- a - brac. When the wheather is good i t is pleasant to amble down Janpath, where bargaining is the order of the day. Sundernagar Market is a fine place to shop for antiques and silver jewellery. The well - appointed stores keep a choice selection, especially of silver jewellery from Ladakh, semi- precious stones, some textiles and brass, copper and silver object d'art. 4.8 Not far from Sundernagar is the Crafts Museum Shop, attached to the museum in Pragati Maidan. Moving further south are the up market shopping centers of South Delhi- South Extension, Greater Kailash I and II, Green Park and Hauz Khas Village. 4.9 The haunt of the nouveau riche, these markets offer a combinatio n of ethnic chic and designer labels, Indian and international. Hauz Khas Village has set a very interesting trend as market. Over the countries, a village had developed around the medieval college and the tomb of Firoz Shah Tughlaq. A few years ago, an association called Dastakar - set up a showroom in the village. Now the village has a plethora of boutiques, galleries and restaurants which coexist with the buffalos, cow pats and men smokking hookahs on charpoys. Far from being a deterrant, the "rural" ambience is a positive attraction. 4.10 Other villages like Mehtauli, Khirkee and Lado Serai are fast following suit. Seeing the popularity of crafts bazaars held periodically in the capital, Delhi Tour ism has set up a permanent outlet for craftspersons at Dilli Haat, where space and the availability of Indian cuisines make the visit a very pleasant experience. A more up market outlet for Indian handicrafts and antiques is the bazaar near the Qutub Minar . 4.11 The Santushi Shopping Arcade opposite the Ashoka Hotel has become another popular up market haunt. Developed by the Air Force Wives Association, it has a select number of boutiques where apparel, furnishings and accessories are available. A restaurant and patisserie add to the quiet charm of the place. 4.12

Karol Bagh

Karol Bagh a.k.a KB was originally home to Punjabis who moved from Pakistan to India during partition. To eke out a living, the Punjabis opened several shops in this area which eventually shaped into a thriving commercial center. The main market places of Karol Bagh are Ajmal Khan Road, Arya Samaj Road, Bank Street and Ghaffar Market. Ajmal Khan Road is popular for its inexpensive readymade, cotton yarn and embroidered garments. A hu ge weekly haat or village market is held every Monday on Ajmal Khan Road. Arya Samaj Road is a place for second hand books while Bank Street and Ghaffar Market are known for gold jewelry and imported products respectively.Karol Bagh is located in the heart of the pulsating city , New Delhi. This is one of the oldest shopping areas of the city. It's central location and proximity to the major places and monuments of the city makes it a visitor's delight. This place is mainly famous for its shopping complex. 14

 A journey into history, traditional treasure house which mirrors the very best of Indian craftsmen. What makes the shopping even more unique is that the visitor has the options of walking in modern air -conditioned stores or through narrow alleys to traditional shops where often the artisan himself presents his work and also explains the intricacies of his craftsmanship. The variety of Indian jewellery is mind boggling. From intricately set necklaces in an array of precious stones to inlaid gold anklets to simple silver bangles, India has it all. Jewellery exists in almost everywhere in India as gold is considered the purest form of wealth in Indian society. Ornaments of gold and precious stones have been used from ancient times to decorate gods and godd esses , maharajas and maharanis, and to add sparkle to the religious rituals and ceremonies. Delhi's gold and silver smiths are the most famous in the country and in fact, an entire street in old Delhi is still called the 'silver street'. Besides gold an d silver , Delhi offers a variety of precious gems - rubies, emeralds, sapphires and a number of  semi-precious stones like cornelian, lapis lazuli, and garnets. Karol Bagh has the maximum number of jewellery shops in Delhi. Therefore, Delhi's traditional jewellery street is worth a visit. Here, in shops located in narrow lane, visitors will be able to witness craftsmen at work and see designs that are still worn by traditional Indian women. What makes the jewellery from here special is not only the quality of the metal or stone rather the fine workmanship available only in this part of the world! Shoppers in Karol Bagh have either the option of picking up fabrics from the rich array of cotton , silks, woolens or synthetics, or buying readymade garments in the trendiest of the world of fashions. Be it traditional Indian Saree or an evening dress, the bargains are unbelievable. Other shopping bargains at Karol Bagh include furniture and furnishings, carpets and dhurries, spices and tea and a wide range of fashion accessories. 4.13

Civil Lines

In contemporary times the metropolis like Delhi has been divided into four important zones which include the East, West, North and South zone. Civil lines comes under  the North Zone belt. The place got its name from the British Empire when they demarcated the region for civilians and military separately. The place reflects a blend of historical and modern times. The historical artefacts that make Civil Lines a hot spot include the C oronation Pillar, Mutiny Memorial, Metcalfe House and Viceregal Lodge, Shalimar Bagh, Roshanara Bagh, Qudsia Bagh, Delhi Ridge and ancient monument such as Ashokan Pillar.  A tour of Civil Lines fills our memories with various empire ages. Some other famous places in Civil lines are Shah Alam's Tomb Flagstaff Tower, Chauburji Masjid, Pir  Ghaib, Old Secretariat, Majnu Ka Tila, Ashokan Pillar, Hindu Rao's House, Nicholson Cemetry. 15

Some of the parts of this area have turned into residential settlements. Many banks have come up with their branches in this region of Delhi. There are several schools and educational institutes for higher studies set here. This place also boasts of  owning an underground metro railway station. It is one of the fastest developing districts in Delhi. 4.14

Pitampura

Pitampura is non-descript area that has come over an age and now forms a potential commercial and retail center. The area is well encompass ed between Outer and Inner ring roads, NH1 and Rohtak road. Over the years, Pitampura has shown significant growth. Two of the major attractions of the region are Pitampura TV tower and Delhi Development Authority (DDA) District Centre commercial complex. This complex is built on the similar line of Nehru Palace and Rajendra Palace and is also known as Netaji Subhash Palace. Several schools and vocational training institutes are growing in number here. Students across the country come here for higher stud ies. With the advent of  shopping malls and retail outlets of world renowned brands and designers, markets have developed really well here. 4.15

Chankya

Puri

Chanakyapuri stands in the heart of the national capital of India, that is Delhi. Chanakyapuri is one of the posh areas of Delhi.The entire area of Chanakyapuri plus Connaught Place constitute the central zone of Delhi. The adjoining areas of Chanakyapuri include JorBagh, Lodhi Colony, Nicholson lines, Daula Khan, Netaji Nagar and Sarojini Nagar. Birds eye view shows the place resembles horse shoe with tansversing paths and roads. Roads that go from north to south including the horse shoe arms include Chander Gupt Marg, Nyaya Marg, Shanti Path and Niti Marg. These are transversed by Kautilya Marg, Panch Sheel Marg and Satya Marg. The areas within the transversersing sections consists mostly of foreign offices.  Almost every house in the central region faces well maintained park. Facilities like safe drinking water and no pwer cuts ensures the pleasures of living a comfortable life. The south eastern periphery is bounded by Nehru Park. and Bhairon Temple is located in the Nehru Park. The International Hospi tal is located towards west Chanakyapuri and close to Cross Road 3. Chanakya Theatre falls in the exreme south east region. Hotel Ashok and Hotel Samrat are main luxury hotels and a constant check in place for foreign tourists. Some other hotels in the vic inity are Maurya Sheraton, Taj Palace, Claridges, Diplomat.Also known as Diplomatic Area Chanakyapuri is very popular area with the ex -patriates and their families because it is here that the American, British and German schools are located. 16

4.15

Greater Kailash

Luxurious home, elegant dresses, brisk crowd and bountiful markets, this what defines Greater Kailash area of South Delhi. Gratifying and lavish show rooms and retail outlets form markets here. If you are looking for designer wears then you fin d one in every market place here. Among the most trendy shops in India, GK boasts of  housing a large number of these. If you are party animal, this place can be an absolute bliss. There are swanky clubs, bars, pubs and restaurants serving most exquisite variety of food. The quality that you can find here is grandiose. You can spend whole night letting your hail down and shaking legs at some of the discotheques here. Geographically Greater Kailash (GK) has been divided into two zones, GK -I and GKII. GK-II is costlier than GK-I in terms of land cost and is home for some of the richest people in India. In all, Greater Kailash is the most affluent area in Delhi. 4.16 Nehru Place IT Hub of Delhi, Nehru Place is the major business center in Delhi. This is one place that host shops selling computers and computer parts. Each and every part of  computer is available in almost every range. You will be amazed to see street hawkers selling computer hardware as well as softwares in the lawns of Nehru Place.

There are several 'job work 'shops as well located here. You can get all kinds of  printing, in almost any size in a very economical prize. Alike any other market in India, bargaining can save a lot of your money. If you really want to cut on cost, then try insist the vendor and get a pirated version of almost any software. From needle to latest LCD monitor, Nehru Place has it all for you. The building may look old and rusty but the products on sale here are outstanding. And if you are tired of shopping, there are i nnumerable restaurant to fill your appetite with the local delicacies like 'Rajma Chawal', 'Kadi Chawal', Mutton fried Rice with 'Lassi'. In geographical terms, Nehru Place is a sprawling shopping arcade with a massive bus terminal, plying buses to almost every part of the city and even outside it. Located in South Delhi, Nehru Place forms the commercial hub with clean and wide roads. The areas encompasses cinema halls, markets, and many educational institutions as well. 4.17

South Extension

Situated on Ring Road, South Extension is divided into two parts - South Extension I and South Extension II. This is one of the most posh market place promising international shopping experiences. It is a good place for tourists to see locals going about their daily activities. Although the market remains closed on Mondays, they are busiest on Sundays.

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Basically, it is divided into two parts - one is Greater Kailash and other is Defence Colony. The market is quite famous for priced designer stuff and branded clothes. For Delhi's cash flush teenagers, the market is a bliss . Mehrasons Jewellery Store, Bengali Sweet Market Centre (a restaurant and sweet shop), Teksons Bookshop, Mango (a high -end Spanish female clothing store), Nalli Saris, Sehgal Bros. (clothing) are some of the well renowned brands with their  outlets here.  And that's not all. If you feel lost in international brands and wish to feel India, have Bhel Puri or Golgappas from the local stands. But if you are in a rapturous mood and want to tango then this area has some exquisite restro -bars, clubs and discotheques to tingle your limbs and make you dance all night long. These markets are famous for good quality high priced designer stuf f of major Indian and International brands. When in Delhi you just cannot miss this place. Shopping here will add a lot more zing on your tour and you will easily able to feel the difference between other parts of Delhi. 4.20

Gurgaon

Gurgaon is the most rapidly developing colonnade of Greater Delhi. Gurgaon located in the National Capital Region. It's lies close to the International and the Domestic  Airport. Gurgaon has emerged as the hub of IT and other new -age businesses. Its proximity to the national capital of Delhi is an added advantage. Gurgaon enjoys all the facilities available in Delhi. Gurgaon is home to offices of several MNCs. The Gurgaon district of Haryana has several places of tourist interest like the Sultanpur  Bird Sanctuary, Damdama Lake and Shama. Gurgaon is well linked by rail and road to Delhi, Faridabad and Jaipur. The total area of Gurgaon district is 2 105 sq kms and its population is 11,46,000. Now Gurgaon has become one of the most important corporate and industrial hubs of Haryana. The office and manufacturing plant of India's largest car maker Maruti Udyog Limited is situated here as are a large number other industries. Another area in which Gurgaon is excelling is the IT industry and software development. To cater  to the Corporate clientele there are many top class hotels in Gurgaon including The Radisson and 32 Milestone . 4.21 Greater Kailash M Block, New Delhi

Greater Kailash is the most posh area in South Delhi and consists of various residential colonies and a plethora of markets with designer wear stores and modern retail outlets. The region of Greater Kailash (GK) is divided into two zones - Greater  Kailash I and Greater Kailash II. Greater Kailash I is the most affluent area in terms of real estate and cost of the land and some of the richest men in India reside at this place. There is no dearth of trendy shops in the Greater Kailash region. There are pubs, discos, night clubs and restaurants serving an array of dishes.  At Greater Kailash you will find one of the busiest markets in New Delhi which is known as the M-Block market. This market sells an assortment of products and 18

commodities as well as very good eateries. There are also many shops selling branded products in these markets. Greater Kailash is always over -crowded and the worst problem you would face in Greater Kailash is the traffic jams and congested roads.  Apart from markets, you will also find visiting Greater Kailash amusing as the place boasts of fashionable neighborhoods. The houses are done in great architectural styles and in front of these houses you will find doormen standing. There are life style shops and restaurants like Mcdonalds, Pizza Hut, and two-level Benetton and so on. You will find almost everything like books, designer clothes, perfumes, accessories, imported crystal objects, home décor items, costume jewelry or funky bags and shoes at this place, just name it! You can also a wi de range of inexpensive items from the roadside stalls. If you are a style freak, then M Block of Greater Kailash is the ideal destination for  you. You can eat in style and shop in style and obviously spend a great time in style!

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CHAPTER FIVE DILLI HAAT 5.1

Location

Dilli Haat is located in the heart of New Delhi near the All India Institute of Medical Sciences, opposite the INA Market in Sri Aurbindo Marg. 5.2

Meaning of ³Haat´

Haat is a traditional market that moves from one place to another; or more specifically from one village to another.  Although Dilli Haat is permanent, the artisans are mobile and change every fifteen days, so visitors can look forward to the new experience every fortnight. 5.3

Background

Dilli Haat is an ambitious project set was up jointly by Delhi Tourism and NDMC, DC (Handicrafts) and DC (Handlooms), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and Ministry of Tourism, Government of India in March 1994. It aims at providing encouragement to the needy artisans from all over the country in order to sustain and preserve the rich heritage of India. 5.4

Architecture

The architectural features of the complex have been especially designed in the traditional North Indian style with brick work latti ce and stone roofs.  A hall in the complex caters specifically to exhibitions of handlooms and handicrafts.  A souvenir shop, also displays attractive ethnic products. The small thatched roof cottages and kiosks without any concrete structure provide a village atmosphere. The shops are set up on platforms which act as a link in the Bazaar design. The courtyards between the shops are paved in stone and interspaced with grass to retain a visual softness. The landscaping of the area incorporates colourful shrubs and trees, thus the entire complex is in harmony with the environment.

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5.5

Infrastructure

The six acres of land on which this sprawling complex is situated was salvaged as part of a reclamation project and transformed in to the plaza that it is today. 5.5.1 Craft Stalls: Dilli Haat boasts of nearly 200 craft stalls selling native, utilitarian and ethnic products from all over the country. Extensive foundation work, small thatched roof cottages and kiosks with a village atmosphere has made the place into an attractive multiple centre. 5.5.2 Food Stalls: Besides an International Food Plaza there are twenty five Stalls dishing out sumptuous delicacies from different States and Union territories. 5.5.3 Souvenir Shop 5.5.4

Play

Area for Children

5.5.5 An Open Stage 5.5.6 Washrooms 5.5.7 Drinking water  5.5.8 Telephone Booth 5.5.9 Enquiry Desk 5.5.10 Wheelchair on request 5.5.11 ATM Machine 5.5.12 Meeting and Conference rooms 5.5.13 Storage space and security for t he same for the artisans¶ products 5.5.14 Space for shooting

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5.6

Products

and Goods Available

 Artisans from 25 Indian states and countries like Pakistan and Vietnam flaunt their  ethnic wares thus promoting cultural bonding. y y y y y y y y

y y

5.7

Elegant bamboo and cane craft from North East India Handloom rugs and dhurries Marble artifacts Miniature sandalwood items Silverware Gems and jewellery of India Pashmina heritage shawls Ethnic fabric: Kantha work and tant from Bengal, silks from the South and zardozi from Benaras. Terracotta and wicker work Papier-mâché and wood work Gastronomic Delights

The specialities of different states can be savoured here. y y y y y

Makki ki roti and Sarson ka Saag from Punjab Momos from Siikim Cowmein from Mizoram Dal-Bati Choorma from Rajasthan Shirikhand, Pao Bhaji and Puran Poli from Maharashtra 22

y y y y

Maccher Jhol from Bengal Wazwan from Kashmir  Idli, Dosa and Uttapam from the South Sadya from Kerala

Vistors can eat in throwaway crockery made of leaves which obviate the neces sity of  a large washing are. Nutritious and hygienically prepared, the food is very popular and reasonably priced too.

5.8

Live

Performances

The Cultural Complex includes an open -air theatre for stage performances equipped with an audio system and green room. In keeping with the overall theme, puppet shows and kite flying demonstrations are organised. Even international troupes perform here. Some of the regular festivals organised are: Spicmacay Folk Festival Lohri and Pongal Id Jammu and Kashmir Festival Dilli Haat Anniversary Celebrations Baisakhi Sharbat Festival Dilli ka Khana Teej Festival Kerala Onam festival Ganesh Utsav Karva Chauth

January January February March March April May June July-August September  Septemebr  September-October  23

Navratras and Deep festval Winter Carnival Dilli Utsav

October-November  December  December 

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CHAPTER SIX CONCLUSION Dilli Haat can indeed be concluded as a village fair with a conscience because ³it cares´. The unique barrier-free environ with well maintained public convenience of  Dilli Haat enables the physically challenged to enjoy its pleasures. Born out of social concern, the Haat promotes rural artisans of India and empowers them to reach the end consumer without being exploited by the middleman. For the visitor, it means the opportunity to procure the best handicrafts at the most competitive prices. India is a nation so diverse, not even months of travel can capture it all. Very rarely can one place encapsulate the myriad moods of ethnic India the way Dilli Haat does.  A take-off from the traditional bazaar where local artisans sell their  merchandise, Dilli Haat¶s unusual rural setting offers the visitor a fascinating glimpse of India through its array of crafts, folk performances and food.

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